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USB DONE RIGHT: Two magic boxes that let computer audio ...

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Free Free Feedback Advice Advice<br />

McIntosh MC 501 monoblocks, Wilson<br />

Watt/Puppy 8 speakers, PS Audio P10<br />

power regenerator. Power cords are all<br />

PS Audio AC12<br />

The interconnects from turntable to<br />

preamp are Cardas Golden Reference<br />

RCA, for digital source to preamp and<br />

preamp to amps, Siltech Anniversary<br />

550i balanced XLR, speaker cables are<br />

Siltech Anniversary 550i spade to spade.<br />

This system can produce the music<br />

with a lot of detail. However, I have<br />

recently upgraded to the Siltech and<br />

am finding the music to be a little on<br />

the bright side; shrill to the point <strong>that</strong> I<br />

can’t listen for too long. In short, not as<br />

musical as before. However, I’m not sure<br />

if it was due to the cables.<br />

I’ve been told <strong>that</strong> tube amps would<br />

give warmer sound, but I have never had<br />

tube amps. I’m currently looking at the<br />

McIntosh MC 275 Limited Edition 25th<br />

Anniversary version. However $6500 is<br />

a lot of money and I would like to seek<br />

some advice on tube amps and your<br />

opinion on these Mac tube amps as well<br />

as suggestion for a tube amp <strong>that</strong> would<br />

match well with my system. I enjoy the<br />

MC 501, and the 500 watts of power<br />

especially during a high tempo passage<br />

with a full orchestra.<br />

I would appreciate your opinion on<br />

my total system. Any area for improvement?<br />

Any weakness or mistakes <strong>that</strong> I<br />

have made in assembling them together?<br />

Unfortunately, I wasn’t aware of your<br />

magazine until after I had purchased<br />

most of the equipment.<br />

I play classical music 95% of the time<br />

and I have a collection of 700-800 LPs.<br />

I do enjoy vinyl more than digital.<br />

Alfred Cheng<br />

TORONTO, ON<br />

12 ULTRA HIGH FIDELITY Magazine<br />

look before we leapt.<br />

For one thing the “tube warmth”<br />

thing is overblown if not downright<br />

wrong-headed. If an amplifier is any<br />

good, you can’t tell by listening whether<br />

it works its <strong>magic</strong> with tubes or transistors.<br />

You want to hear the music, not the<br />

technology. For another, if you’ve made a<br />

mistake, a second, opposite mistake isn’t<br />

going to fix it. In medicine <strong>that</strong> can be<br />

unavoidable. A drug fixes one problem<br />

but upsets your stomach, so you take an<br />

antacid to alleviate the heartburn, but it<br />

gives you migraines, so you take a pain<br />

GET THE COMPLETE VERSION!<br />

You’ll have noticed <strong>that</strong> this free<br />

version of UHF Magazine<br />

is not quite comp<strong>let</strong>e. But you can<br />

get the comp<strong>let</strong>e version<br />

from Maggie for $4.<br />

Click here, and away we go!<br />

reliever <strong>that</strong> makes you impotent, so then<br />

you…<br />

It’s easy to get lost this way. Perhaps<br />

changing your amplifiers would give you<br />

a less bright sound, but “less bright” is<br />

not how we would choose to describe the<br />

music system of our dreams. Backtracking<br />

is going to be painful, but you need to<br />

do <strong>that</strong> before you spend large amounts<br />

more money. If you still have your old<br />

cables, reinstall them and listen again.<br />

Is the sound less bright, the way you<br />

remember it? Is the lessened brightness<br />

accompanied by a drop in detail? Reintroduce<br />

the Siltechs one set at a time.<br />

At what point do you hear things going<br />

wrong? Do you hear the problem with<br />

both digital and analog? Do you hear it<br />

with both turntables?<br />

Our rule of thumb is one <strong>that</strong> is<br />

followed by the greatest military commanders:<br />

reinforce success, not failure.<br />

Do what you need to do to make the<br />

system sound good. Then, and only then,<br />

can you spend significant money to make<br />

it better. Silver bul<strong>let</strong>s are tempting, but<br />

GET they FREE don’t ADVICE! work, because werewolves<br />

Where don’t do exist. the questions for<br />

our famous Free With Advice patience section comes come wisdom. from?<br />

Our readers send them to us at uhfmail@uhfmag.com.<br />

Alfred, <strong>let</strong> us begin with a piece The of questions, For years and our now answers, I have been using a<br />

general advice we’ve enunciated may before. appear on Linn line, Genki in the CD magazine, player. In or my both. CD col-<br />

Audio problems are not werewolves, and We lection don’t I reply have by a couple mail, of HDCD’s and<br />

the solution is not a silver bul<strong>let</strong>. That and a we number don’t give of SACD’s, it for free with more added<br />

may seem especially apt if you considering request <strong>that</strong> every your month. question At this not be time made I am public. (slowly)<br />

<strong>that</strong> your problems began when We you do ask digitizing for your my name CD collection. and city. However<br />

added the Siltech cables...which are, in in order Ask to away!<br />

digitize any of my SACD’s<br />

fact, silver. Siltechs aren’t cheap, and so (see your article in UHF No. 87) I need<br />

you have made a major investment <strong>that</strong> an SACD player.<br />

didn’t work out for you. Your sound is If possible this player should be a<br />

now bright. You’ve heard, as most of us combined HDCD/SACD player and not<br />

have, <strong>that</strong> tubes have a “warmer” sound make my limited bank account cry too<br />

than transistors. Good move? We would loud. Do you know of a “Genki compat-<br />

ible quality” player I could consider for<br />

this purpose?<br />

W. Flink<br />

VEENENDAAL, Netherlands<br />

Actually you aren’t digitizing your<br />

CDs. since their content is already<br />

digital. Rather, you are transferring<br />

the music to your <strong>computer</strong> hard drive,<br />

which is also digital. To get SACD onto<br />

your hard drive, you need to go through<br />

the analog domain. Software for direct<br />

conversion does exist, such as Korg<br />

AudioGate and Weiss Saracon, but we<br />

aren’t convinced <strong>that</strong> this sort of transcoding<br />

is superior to analog conversion.<br />

Your HDCD discs are totally compatible<br />

with the CD format, though<br />

to get the decoding you’ll need to play<br />

them back through a DAC <strong>that</strong> has the<br />

decoding. They are rare. Oppo does<br />

make a player <strong>that</strong> decodes HDCD and<br />

plays SACD...and Blu-ray as well.<br />

I’m trying to terminate my Audioquest<br />

Rocket 88 bi-wire speaker<br />

cables the best way possible. I was looking<br />

at your WBT nextgen spades, or<br />

Furutech spades/bananas. Is one better<br />

than the other (spade vs banana) if you<br />

forego the convenience? Is soldering<br />

better (with silver solder of course) or<br />

crimping? or both?<br />

I notice you don’t have the WBT<br />

crimping tool available presently.<br />

One final question: would just running<br />

the wires bare, treating with Pro-<br />

Gold and then inserting them into the<br />

WBT binding post on the speakers and<br />

amp be best sound wise?<br />

Your changing the connectors on<br />

your speaker cables got me started on<br />

this!<br />

Larry Upham<br />

HALIFAX, NS<br />

All else being equal, Larry, crimping<br />

is superior to soldering. We very much<br />

like the WBT system. And by the way<br />

we do have the WBT crimping tool once<br />

more.<br />

We prefer bananas to spades, because<br />

we plug and unplug things a lot, and<br />

they’re a lot more convenient. Some<br />

spades don’t fit some binding posts well,<br />

which is a problem for us, because we use<br />

our cables with a lot of different prod-

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