BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast

BEER
STOCKING UP FOR SUMMER
With summer finally in sight, now is the
time to start stocking up on some of
today’s refreshing beer styles: light lagers,
pale ales, and easy-drinking IPAs. But perhaps
the most iconic selection for the season is a
wheat beer, a deliciously light and yet oh-so-satisfying
glass of gold that is sure to quench your
thirst while simultaneously offering complexity
and depth of flavor.
Belgian wheat beers (aka witbier, witte, wit,
white) are some of the most balanced, delicious
and refreshing brews. They’re especially delicious
during the summer months when their
assertive carbonation, crisp citrus notes and
delicate spice aromas provide a welcome counterbalance
to warm weather.
In the U.S., wheat beers have become increasingly
popular, and many summer seasonals
released from domestic brewers are made in
that style. Normally pale to golden in color, with
a substantial head, citrus-dominant wheat flavors
and a briskly carbonated mouth, American ver-
WHEAT BEER
90
Dock Street Bubbly Wit (Witbier; Dock
Street Brewery, PA). Pours a golden-yellow
color with a good amount of haze and a frothy white
head that lingers. Rings of lace form in the glass after
each sip. Aromas are typical for a wit: citrus, banana,
clove and pepper. The medium-weight mouth is brimming
with sweet citrus flavors, framed by notes of whole
wheat bread, spice and lemongrass. Although the “Bubbly”
part of the name came from the brewery’s use of
Champagne yeast in this beer, it’s appropriate for this
assertively carbonated selection.
abv: 8.25% Price: $12/750 ml
90
Port City Optimal Wit (Witbier; Port City
Brewing Company, VA). For full review see
page 10.
abv: 5.0% Price: $11/12 oz 6 pack
89
Samuel Adams Summer Ale (Americanstyle
Wheat Ale; Boston Beer Company,
MA). A tell-tale sign that summer’s finally here is when
your favorite local watering hole has updated their Sam
Seasonal tap to Summer Ale. A slightly hazy, golden
apricot color in the glass, this easy-drinking, warmweather
beer offers attractive notes of lemon, bread
dough, allspice and a pinch of white pepper. Flavors
of toasted wheat and lemon flesh out the mildly grainy,
textured palate. Refreshing, with vibrant carbonation
and a clean finish accented by hints of citrus pith.
abv: 5.35% Price: $8/12 oz 6 pack
sions often take traditional European styles and
add their own twist: a unique spice, an unusual
hop, a special brewing technique.
Note the proper way to pour these brews.
Because many wheat beers are bottle conditioned,
it is common to find some sediment at
the bottom of the bottle. Pour half of the beer
and then swirl the remaining liquid in the bottle
before emptying what remains into your glass.
This way, any of the delicious yeast sediment that
might have settled to the bottom of the bottle
can be properly enjoyed.
A perfect partner for light fare like salads and
grilled chicken or fish, enjoy your favorite wheat
beer while summer lasts.
But if wheat beers aren’t your thing, we also
offer a handful of reviews for other seasonallyappropriate
styles: pale ales and American IPAs.
There are many more excellent choices available
than what’s included here, so be sure to check
out your local distributor for the latest releases.
Prost! —Lauren Buzzeo
88
Boulevard Unfiltered Wheat Beer (American-style
Wheat Ale; Boulevard Brewing
Company, MO). A soft floral character permeates the
nose of this classic Midwest wheat beer. It pours quite
hazy and light golden-yellow in color with a frothy white
head. The yeast and grain aromas are in the forefront of
the bouquet, while the vibrant mouth offers juicy citrus
notes that end on a slightly bitter note. Alongside the
citrus-fruit core are flavors of banana and bread dough,
fleshing out the medium-bodied mouth with a slightly
creamy texture. A refreshing selection you can enjoy all
day long.
abv: 4.5% Price: $8/12 oz 6 pack
88
Uinta Hazel Organic Amber Wheat Ale
(American-style Wheat Ale; Uinta Brewing
Co., UT). There’s a bright hop streak to this ale,
lifting the moderately malty nose and mouth. Notes
of raw dough and red fruits, like mild plum and small
berries, complement the caramel malt aromas and flavors.
Approachable and balanced, with a medium body,
a round mouthfeel that’s lifted by lively carbonation and
an easy finish.
abv: 4.0% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack
86
Barrel Trolley Belgian White (Witbier;
World Brews, NY). Although this isn’t the
most complex wit, it’s well-made and very drinkable,
with the classic characteristics of a wheaty core jazzed
up by accents of citrus peel, coriander and peppery
spice. The mouth is light in body and highly carbonated,
and there’s a crisp edge to the finish.
abv: 5.4% Price: $8/12 oz 6 pack
86
Hopper Whitman Belgian White (Witbier;
World Brews, NY). Hopper Whitman is a value
line, and this addition to the lineup offers great quality
for the price. It’s lively and approachable, with faint
aromas of spicy yeast and mandarin orange rind. There
is a faint hop presence to the mouth, which adds a bit
of depth to its otherwise straightforward wheat character
and helps to stretch out the finish. A session-ready
selection. Best Buy.
abv: 5.4% Price: $6/12 oz 6 pack
PALE ALE
89
Ninkasi Spring Reign Ale (American Pale
Ale; Ninkasi Brewing, OR). This hazy-gold
colored beer pours with a frothy white head and leaves
a nice rim of lacing behind with each sip. Light aromas
of clean malt and grass lead the way with glimmers of
orange and white melon on the back. Surprising husky
grain flavors dominate in the mouth, followed closely by
a fair amount of astringency on the dry finish.
abv: 6.0% Price: $4/22 oz
86
Cable Car Small Batch Pale Ale (American
Pale Ale; Cable Car Brewing Co., NY).
Faint aromas of grassy hops, lemony citrus and fresh
mint leaves add character to the otherwise bready malt
core of this light orange brew. Easy drinking with a light,
effervescent mouth and a clean grain finish. Balanced
and refreshing; a nice choice for summertime.
abv: 5.3% Price: $7/12 oz 6 pack
AMERICAN IPA
89
Maui Brewing Big Swell IPA (American
IPA; Maui Brewing, HI). Sweet and bitter all
at once, it’s like a rollercoaster for your senses with the
two forces seemingly going back and forth on which one
will take the lead. The bouquet is all fresh, sweet, citrus
fruit aromas, while the medium-weight mouth is loaded
with rich, toasty malt flavors followed by a sticky, astringent
finish.
abv: 6.2% Price: $9/6 pack cans
89
Sam Adams Latitude 48 IPA (American
IPA; The Boston Beer Co., MA). An interesting
IPA brewed with hops from top growing regions
located close to the 48th latitude. This beer seems to be
lacking a bit of fresh citrus flavor in the hop profile, with
earthy spice and hop oil notes dominating the overall
character. The sweet caramel and toasty malt flavors fill
the mouth, with crisp carbonation and a smooth, rich
finish.
abv: 6.0% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack
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