BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast

SPIRITS
REMEMBER THE REPOSADO
drink reposado,” the Tequila rep
said. “I just don’t think of it. I use blan-
"Idon’t
co for mixing drinks, and añejo for sipping
straight up.”
Apparently, reposado has become the forgotten
middle child of the Tequila world. Blanco
(“white,” or unaged) Tequila is the sassy youngest,
the one who stirs up trouble in margaritas
and other cocktails, while añejo (“aged”) Tequila
is the elder statesman, dark and mellow.
Meanwhile, reposado (“rested”) Tequila,
aged in oak barrels from two months to one year,
is often a perfect blend of sprightly peppery and
citrus notes tempered by mellow, toasty vanilla.
It’s also an excellent canvas for showcasing
the differences in terroir. Most Tequila originates
in Jalisco, Mexico; those distilled from
agave plants grown in the highlands area tend to
96
Siete Leguas Reposado (Mexico; Gemini
Spirits & Wine, Chicago, IL). Excellent
all around, for sipping or mixing, this highlands Tequila
has a delicacy and an almost whiskey-like feel to it. Pale
straw, almost no color at all, with lightly smoky and herbaceous
flavors finishing with a hint of vanilla.
abv: 40% Price: $45
95
Luna Nueva Ultra Premium Limited Edition
Tequila Reposado (Mexico; LCG International,
Medina, OH). For full review see page
10.
abv: 40% Price: $37
94
Don Roberto Reposado (Mexico; Aveniu
Brands, Baltimore, MD). Don Roberto is
one of the few remaining 100% Mexican- and familyowned
Tequila producers. The brand launched in 1924
as the family’s private stock, and was originally not commercially
available, but given only as gifts. It’s still giftworthy,
bursting with butterscotch flavors and ending
with a lilt of fresh apples, pears, and light brush of black
pepper. Aged six months.
abv: 40% Price: $44
Tequila Corrido (Mexico; True Blue Im-
94 ports, Scottsdale, AZ). “Corrido” is Mexican
folk music, originating from the late 1800s. Nodding
to the musical name, a guitar pick on a leather strap is
wrapped around the bottle’s neck. Perhaps because it’s
aged twice (first in Jack Daniel’s barrels, then in Maker’s
Mark barrels), this highlands Tequila is dessert-like and
reminiscent of an añejo. It would make a good sipping
Tequila. Look for maple syrup and apple notes, with a
creamy mouthfeel and tingly cinnamon spice on the finish.
abv: 40% Price: $40
have a fruity, floral, herbaceous quality, while in
the lowlands, volcanic soil yields earthy, dry tequilas.
Further, a number of smaller producers
specify particular estates where the agave plants
were grown.
This Cinco de Mayo, don’t forget about reposado.
Bartenders certainly aren’t. Indeed, reposado
Tequila is making a strong showing on
cocktail menus. While añejos are often too expensive
to mix, and blancos too brash, the honeyed
tones of reposados lend affordable finesse
to all manner of drinks, and many are suitable as
sipping Tequilas in their own right.
With such a fine crop available, it’s hard to
imagine why anyone wouldn’t be drinking reposado
these days.
Sláinte!
1921 Tequila Reposado (Mexico; Casa
93 1921 LLC, San Antonio, TX). Luscious butterscotch
notes touched with lemon peel lead the way,
while dry cocoa, leather and cigar tobacco notes develop
on the finish. Soft feel. Based on this complex and
mouthwatering reposado, the añejo must be a knockout.
abv: 40% Price: $45
93
Karma Tequila (Mexico; WC Spirits LLC,
North Hollywood, CA). Aged nearly a full
year (even one more day would have classified this as
añejo), this pale-straw spirit has a caramel foundation,
but retains a pleasing lightness. The aroma is delicate
and floral, while the flavors surprise, with cinnamon,
cardamom and nutmeg woven into the caramel. It
doesn’t hurt that this highlands Tequila comes in a gorgeous
bottle with a glass stopper and leather bracelet
wrapped around the bottle’s neck.
abv: 40% Price: $37
92
Luna Nueva 2012 The Mayan Prophecy
Edicion Especial Tequila Reposado
(Mexico; LCG International, Medina, OH). For
full review see page 10.
abv: 40% Price: $45
92
—Kara newMan
Azul Imperial Reposado (Mexico; United
Imports, West Covina, CA). Give this bright
yellow-gold reposado a little time for the alcohol to dissipate.
Look for a mild honey-agave scent and round,
buttery flavors with a faint peppery tickle in the back of
the throat. The spirit finishes dry and clean, with a bit of
oakiness. Best Buy.
abv: 40% Price: $29
Jose Cuervo Tradicional Tequila Reposa-
92 do (Mexico; Diageo, New York, NY). A
solid cocktail choice, this 100% agave Tequila has rich,
rounded vanilla and zingy peppery notes followed by a
dry cocoa accent on the finish. The bottle is a stunner,
with its yellow, red and black Day of the Dead graphic
that’s meant to be frozen to bring out additional thermochromic
details. (It’s a bit of overkill—the bottle is
plenty eye-catching at room temperature.)
abv: 40% Price: $26
92
Olmeca Altos (Mexico; Pernod Ricard
USA, Purchase, NY). Within the square
bottle with tactile raised graphics, this spirit is loaded
with tropical fruit (pineapple and lychee) chased by robust
caramel notes and waft of smoke. Leaning toward
dessert-like flavors, this highlands Tequila veers close to
añejo territory. Best Buy.
abv: 40% Price: $25
T1 Tequila Reposado Excepcional (Mex-
92 ico; T1 Tequila, San Antonio, TX). Rested
in barrels previously used to age Scotch whiskey, this
Tequila is complex, earthy and unlike any other. Where
others are caramel-forward (the result of resting in used
Bourbon barrels), this reposado is crisp, with woodsy,
green flavors and subtle notes of coconut and toffee on
the finish. The striking, bulbous bottle looks like a genie
should pop out, capped as it is with a flame-shaped
glass stopper.
abv: 40% Price: $48
Tres Agaves Reposado (Mexico; Tres
92 Agaves Products, Oakland, CA). Give
this light reposado a little time to open up. The aroma
morphs from a smoky, almost barbecue sauce-like
aroma to softer, fruiter, even lightly floral notes. The
spirit, aged six to nine months in previously used Bourbon
casks, offers a vanilla flavor with an assertive herbaceous,
grassy finish, faintly touched with menthol and
fresh basil.
abv: 40% Price: $36
91
Gran Amigo Tequila Reposado (Mexico;
Winery Exchange, Novato, CA). Smoky
notes barrel out first, followed by rounded butterscotch
and nutty flavors on the elongated finish. This palestraw
reposado would make a great margarita, it’s crying
out for lime. Best Buy.
abv: 40% Price: $25
91
Pueblo Viejo (Mexico; Gemini Spirits &
Wine, Chicago, IL). Has a well-constructed
mix of fruity sweetness and oaky vanilla, with a light but
lingering smoky finish. Best Buy.
abv: 40% Price: $23
Tequila Teirras Reposado (Mexico; Cas-
91 tle Brands, New York, NY). This certified organic
Tequila has a fresh, fruity aroma, with faint touches
of pepper and hay. On the palate, look for bright jalapeño
flavors, like a blanco, covered with a thick blanket
of vanilla. Soft feel.
abv: 40% Price: $32
90
Excellia Reposado (Mexico; Domaine Select
Wine Estates, New York, NY). Aged in
Sauternes and Cognac casks, this light gold spirit has
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