BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast
BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast
82 Pomar Junction 2008 Merlot (Paso Robles). Tastes like fruit-based syrup, with cherry and spice flavors. Lacks vivacity. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $28 PINOT NOIR 98 Merry Edwards 2009 Klopp Ranch Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Amazingly rich, offering deep, complex layers of cherries, black raspberries, cola, anise biscotti, pomegranates, persimmons, black tea, orange zest, mushrooms, you name it, but don’t forget the spices, everything from cloves and black pepper to cinnamon. Utterly delicious, with a silky, briskly clean mouthfeel. But the tannins are pronounced. They’re not so strong as to lock the wine down, but do suggest time in the cellar. Give it four years, and it could be wonderful after 10 or more. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $57 96 Marimar Estate 2008 La Masía Don Miguel Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 3. abv: 14.7% Price: $39 96 Merry Edwards 2009 Meredith Estate Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Here’s a Pinot to put into your cellar. That’s if you can keep from opening it now and savoring the deep, spicy flavors that are so captivating. Offers up layers of cherries, cola, pomegranates, mushrooms, Indian spices and minerals, not to mention a deft touch of sweet, smoky oak. Wonderful tannins and brisk acidity provide balancing structure to the richness. The finish is long. Drink anytime from now through 2017. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $57 95 Longoria 2009 Fe Ciega Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). For full review see page 3. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.2% Price: $48 95 Merry Edwards 2009 Flax Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). A distinguished Pinot Noir, notable for its pure, refined structure. Although it’s entirely dry, the cherry, licorice and pomegranate flavors are so rich, the wine tastes sweet. The earthiness of the soil shows up in a taste of sautéed wild mushrooms, splashed with balsamic. A brilliant wine, capable of aging for a decade. Perfect with roast lamb. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $54 94 Armanino Family Cellars 2010 Amber Ridge Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Armanino’s 2010 shows a welcome return to form after the 2009. Indeed, it’s more like the ’08, vastly rich in raspberry and cherry compote, gingersnap cookie, sweet, caramelized oak and exotic spice flavors. Feels like pure silk and satin in the mouth, making it perfect for drinking now. —S.H. abv: 15.1% Price: $55 94 Chronicle 2009 Cerise Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). For full review see page 3. Cellar Selection. abv: 13.9% Price: $60 54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012 94 Chronicle 2009 Savoy Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). The grapes obviously were well grown, as this wine shows a particular intensity of red cherry fruit, as well as minerality. The acidity is just about perfect, the tannins brisk and fine. Yet it’s too young to offer full enjoyment. Cellar this polished Pinot Noir for 4–6 years to let it change in interesting ways. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $60 94 Coghlan 2009 Diopside Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). For full review see page 4. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 94 Kazmer & Blaise 2009 Primo’s Hill Pinot Noir (Carneros). A terrific Pinot Noir, from a winery compiling a serious track record. Grown on the Napa side of Carneros, the wine shows classic Primo’s Hill character, with the blackberry pie, cola, mushu plum and sandalwood flavors accented by a little more acidity than usual. Defined by elegance and complexity, it’s an ager, although it’s beautiful now right out of the bottle. Should easily develop through 2015. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $50 94 Merry Edwards 2009 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Made from eight vineyards located throughout this sprawling appellation, this wine showcases the art of the blend, and is an extraordinary achievement for its sheer opulence. Offers wave after wave of Pinot flavor, with superb tannins and mouthwatering acidity. The fact that this is Merry Edwards’s least expensive Pinot Noir is amazing and makes it a special buy. Production was 2,370 cases. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $36 94 Native 9 2009 Rancho Ontiveros Vineyards Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). For full review see page 4. abv: 14.5% Price: $64 94 Pessagno 2009 Four Boys Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). You know you’re dealing with a great Pinot Noir when it’s this delicious right out of the bottle, yet will age. This wine is enormously rich and sweet in cherries, blackberries, blueberries and cola, a wine that almost everyone will find delicious. Yet with thick tannins and brisk acidity, it has the protective structure to evolve over at least six years, and possibly longer. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $55 94 Rusack 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Who wouldn’t love this Pinot Noir? It’s zippy in acidity and ripe in briary raspberry and cherry fruit, with spicy, smoky oak complexity. Really defines the luxurious silkiness of the appellation. The grapes are mostly from the Fiddlestix Vineyard, with the balance hailing from Rio Vista Vineyard. Drink now- 2015. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $40 94 Samsara 2009 Kessler-Haak Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Just wonderful, showing the great richness and complexity of a top Santa Rita Pinot Noir. Partial whole-cluster fermentation gives the wine a spicy earthiness and full-bodied tannins, yet the underlying red berry and cherry fruit shines through. Showing well now and over the next six years. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $46 93 Gundlach Bundschu 2009 Heritage Selection Estate Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full review see page 4. abv: 14.1% Price: $48 93 Marimar Estate 2008 Earthquake Block Don Miguel Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 4. abv: 14.5% Price: $47 93 Marimar Estate 2008 Stony Block Don Miguel Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 5. abv: 14.7% Price: $47 93 Melville 2010 Verna’s Estate Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara County). Ripeness marks this Pinot. It floods the mouth with jammy raspberries and cherries, brightened with acidity. Seems a bit straightforward by virtue of sheer dazzle, but it is a superb example of the Santa Rita Hills, at a good price. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $26 93 Merry Edwards 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Merry Edwards doesn’t just slap this regional blend together. This is a combination of her best vineyards. It’s a wonderful wine, dry, balanced and deep in berry, spice, cola and earthy flavors. In many ways, it’s the consummate Russian River Valley Pinot Noir. Drink now–2015. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $42 93 Morgan 2009 Garys’ Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Morgan’s Pinot Noirs tend to be dark, full-bodied and dense. They’re not for fans of a more delicate interpretation, but winemaker Dan Lee is a master of the big California style. This ’09, from one of the most famous vineyards in the Highlands, certainly has heft, packed as it is with cherries, plums, dark chocolate and exotic spices. It’s very dry, and will pair well with rich dishes such as lamb and steak. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $50 93 Samsara 2009 Melville Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). There’s a barnyardy funkiness to this Pinot Noir that is frankly fascinating. Call it Burgundian, but it’s emphatically Californian in the richness of raspberries and cherries, with their jammy sweet finish. Earthy tannins and brisk acidity guarantee that this wine will age well through 2016. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $48 93 Samsara 2009 Rancho La Vina Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Ripe and complex, offering a wealth of cranberry, cherry, cola and pomegranate fruit flavors, spiced with clove and cinnamon. Silky and tart now, with some furry tannins. Just
lovely, but should develop over the next 6–8 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 13.3% Price: $46 93 Samsara 2009 Turner Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). In youth, this Pinot Noir is brisk and appealing for its array of raspberry, cherry and cola fruit. Delicious as it is, it really needs time in the cellar to let the parts, including hefty tannins, resolve and come together. Best after 2015. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $42 93 Summerland 2008 Fiddlestix Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). What a pretty, polished Pinot for drinking now. It shows its pedigree in the silky mouthfeel, brisk acidity and powerful flavors of persimmons, red plums, cola and dusty exotic spices. You can taste the briny minerals of this cool coastal appellation, making it a real wine of terroir. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $50 92 Bailiwick 2009 Borderline Pinot Noir (Marin County). So savory and easy to like, you might miss the complexity, but it’s there. Offers flashy raspberry and cherry pie, red plum, pie spice and sandalwood flavors, packed into firm but gentle tannins, and brightened with crisp acidity. The finish is entirely dry despite all the sweet fruit. Really defines the modern coastal California style, even if there’s no particular Marin County signature. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $34 92 Bailiwick 2009 Silver Pines Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Mountain). Tight and brittle now, with acidity and dryness starring. The thing to understand about this Pinot is that it’s quite modest in alcohol and understated in flavor, showing rhubarb, pomegranate and cherry Lifesaver flavors with a minerally edge. Elegant now, it should develop over the next six years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $44 92 John Tyler 2008 Bacigalupi Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 6. abv: 14% Price: $45 92 Mistress 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara County). There’s an earthy note of cola that grounds the ripe cherry and pomegranate fruit, giving it depth and complexity. Made from one of the vineyards closest to the coast, this wine provides plenty of Pinot character. Thick tannins and vital acidity suggest aging until at least 2013. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $42 92 Pessagno 2009 Idyll Times Vineyard Pinot Noir (San Benito County). San Benito County is just north of Monterey, and subject to similar coastal influence. This Pinot shows the cool climate in its zesty acidity and firm tannins, as well as the dryness that accompanies the fruit. Those flavors include cherries, cola and pomegranates. It’s a complex wine that will do interesting things over the next six years. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $40 92 Summerland 2008 Solomon Hills Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). With a translucent ruby color and a light, silky body, this Pinot captivates for its ethereal mouthfeel. But there’s nothing light about the flavors, which are cherries, cola, pomegranates, bacon and the sweet, spicy vanilla of toasted oak. It is, in a word, delicious. Seems at its best now. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $45 91 Bailiwick 2009 Michaud Vineyard Pinot Noir (Chalone). A dry, tannic young Pinot Noir. It’s not a big, gushy wine, but comes down more on the elegant side, with low alcohol and an earthiness to the cherry and cola fruit. You want to age it for at least five years, to let it show its stuff. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $44 91 Garnet 2010 Rodgers Creek Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This vineyard has been source to wildly variable Pinot Noirs, but Garnet, which is now a brand from B.R. Cohn, has succeeded in wresting a fine Pinot Noir. It shows the dry silkiness and acidity you want from a coastal Pinot, with elaborate, oak-influenced cherry, cola and pomegranate flavors that finish dry and spicy. Enjoy it over the next five years. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 91 Melville 2010 Estate Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Rich and ripe in berry jam and spice flavors, this Pinot is enjoyable now for its silky texture and bright acidity. At the same time, it should develop bottle notes over the next six years. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $32 91 Pessagno 2009 Lucia Highlands Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). For the price, this is one of the best Santa Lucia Highlands Pinots of the vintage. Just a lovely wine to drink now, showing fine dryness, acidity and silkiness. The flavors are of rose hip tea, cola, sour cherry candy, toasty oak, tobacco and exotic spices. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $28 91 Rodney Strong 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 7. abv: 15% Price: $40 90 Bailiwick 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Defines Russian River Valley Pinot Noir in the dryness, silkiness and full-bodied richness, with flavors of cherries, pomegranates, raspberries and slightly underripe persimmons. This complex wine grows better as it warms in the glass. Drink over the next 2–3 years. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $36 90 Blessing 2009 Split Rock Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Shows the silky dryness and elegance you want in a Pinot Noir, with brisk acidity framing sour cherry, pomegranate and persimmon fruit flavors. Really grows on you as it sits in the glass, warming up and developing complexity. The vine- yard has been quite a successful source of grapes to several wineries, including Blessing. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $40 90 Foursight 2009 Charles Vineyard Clone 5 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). Shows the strong acidity of Foursight’s new Pinot Noirs, but also considerable deepth and lushness. Once the mouth adjusts to the acids, it’s able to appreciate waves of cherries, blackberries, currants and cola, while 50% new oak adds rich notes of smoke and burnt butter. A lovely, dry and impressive wine, fine now with an hour or two in the decanter. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $49 90 Gundlach Bundschu 2009 Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full review see page 8. abv: 14.4% Price: $34 90 Longoria 2010 Lovely Rita Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). This low production blend of Longoria’s estate Fe Ciega Vineyard and Bien Nacido Vineyard seems to be comprised of grapes that didn’t make the winery’s highest cut. It’s quite a nice wine, dry, brisk and pure in cherries, cola, spices and sandalwood, but it doesn’t seem like an ager, so enjoy now. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $32 90 Rusack 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). A nice evocation of Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir, showing rich raspberry, cherry, persimmon and crushed dark spice flavors, framed in a silky texture. Produced from the Solomon Hills and Sierra Madre vineyards. Now–2016. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $36 90 Rusack 2009 Solomon Hills Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Here’s a deliciously ripe, forward Pinot. It’s made in an accessible style, with flashy raspberry, strawberry and oak flavors. Yet it exhibits classic Pinot elegance. Could turn into something special in 6–7 years, if you’re a gambler. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $45 89 Coghlan 2009 La Encantada Sapphire Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Distinctly Californian in style, this is a soft, big, fruity Pinot Noir, packed with cherry, berry, cola and spice flavors that sink deep into the palate and last long on the finish. It’s certainly rich, but lacks some finesse and elegance. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $47 89 Coghlan 2009 Rio Vista Vineyard 115 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). A bit of an outlier for Pinot Noir, with a green, minty streak that cuts right through the cherries and pomegranates. With it comes stimulating acidity, but you have to wonder about the wine’s long-term prospects. Drink soon. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $37 89 Cutruzzola 2009 Gloria Pinot Noir (San Luis Obispo County). Very rich and flamboyant, this could only have grown in a New World climate. In fact it’s from a coastal vineyard. Ripe and expressive in raspberries, cherries, sandalwood and spices, the WineMag.com | 55
- Page 3 and 4: The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide Th
- Page 5 and 6: 93 Marimar Estate 2008 Stony Block
- Page 7 and 8: 91 Coghlan 2009 Tourmaline Grenache
- Page 9 and 10: 89 Darcie Kent Vineyards 2008 Madde
- Page 11 and 12: 88 BEST BUYS Releaf 2010 Made With
- Page 13 and 14: at the back will undoubtedly increa
- Page 15 and 16: Donna Olga 2007 Le Cacce in Villa 9
- Page 17 and 18: 90 Lazzeretti 2007 Brunello di Mont
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- Page 21 and 22: It’s tannic, firm and ready for a
- Page 23 and 24: ROSSO DI MONTALCINO 91 Capanne Ricc
- Page 25 and 26: 85 La Torre 2010 Rosso di Montalcin
- Page 27 and 28: 86 Collemassari 2010 Gròttolo Ros
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- Page 31 and 32: texture, it revels in its fresh red
- Page 33 and 34: Devo Enterprises Corporation. Edito
- Page 35 and 36: 89 Cramele Halewood 2009 Kronos Lim
- Page 37 and 38: y. Drink now-2015. The Triton Colle
- Page 39 and 40: in a zesty, mouthwatering finish. D
- Page 41 and 42: turns crisp and edgy on the finish.
- Page 43 and 44: as more standard cassis and berry a
- Page 45 and 46: y and lightly oaky, minty flavors.
- Page 47 and 48: 90 Sarah’s Vineyard 2010 Chardonn
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- Page 53: 87 Francis Ford Coppola 2009 Direct
- Page 57 and 58: in blackberry and cherry fruit and
- Page 59 and 60: 86 Lava Cap 2009 Estate Barbera (El
- Page 61 and 62: tain fruit. Ripe plums and cherries
- Page 63 and 64: SPIRITS REMEMBER THE REPOSADO drink
- Page 65: BEER STOCKING UP FOR SUMMER With su
82<br />
Pomar Junction 2008 Merlot (Paso Robles).<br />
Tastes like fruit-based syrup, with cherry<br />
and spice flavors. Lacks vivacity. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.9% Price: $28<br />
PINOT NOIR<br />
98<br />
Merry Edwards 2009 Klopp Ranch Pinot<br />
Noir (Russian River Valley). Amazingly<br />
rich, offering deep, complex layers of cherries, black<br />
raspberries, cola, anise biscotti, pomegranates, persimmons,<br />
black tea, orange zest, mushrooms, you name<br />
it, but don’t forget the spices, everything from cloves<br />
and black pepper to cinnamon. Utterly delicious, with a<br />
silky, briskly clean mouthfeel. But the tannins are pronounced.<br />
They’re not so strong as to lock the wine down,<br />
but do suggest time in the cellar. Give it four years, and<br />
it could be wonderful after 10 or more. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.4% Price: $57<br />
96<br />
Marimar Estate 2008 La Masía Don<br />
Miguel Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River<br />
Valley). For full review see page 3.<br />
abv: 14.7% Price: $39<br />
96<br />
Merry Edwards 2009 Meredith Estate Pinot<br />
Noir (Russian River Valley). Here’s a<br />
Pinot to put into your cellar. That’s if you can keep from<br />
opening it now and savoring the deep, spicy flavors that<br />
are so captivating. Offers up layers of cherries, cola,<br />
pomegranates, mushrooms, Indian spices and minerals,<br />
not to mention a deft touch of sweet, smoky oak. Wonderful<br />
tannins and brisk acidity provide balancing structure<br />
to the richness. The finish is long. Drink anytime<br />
from now through 2017. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.4% Price: $57<br />
95<br />
Longoria 2009 Fe Ciega Vineyard Pinot<br />
Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). For full review see page<br />
3. Cellar Selection.<br />
abv: 14.2% Price: $48<br />
95<br />
Merry Edwards 2009 Flax Vineyard Pinot<br />
Noir (Russian River Valley). A distinguished<br />
Pinot Noir, notable for its pure, refined structure. Although<br />
it’s entirely dry, the cherry, licorice and pomegranate<br />
flavors are so rich, the wine tastes sweet. The<br />
earthiness of the soil shows up in a taste of sautéed wild<br />
mushrooms, splashed with balsamic. A brilliant wine,<br />
capable of aging for a decade. Perfect with roast lamb.<br />
—S.H.<br />
abv: 14.4% Price: $54<br />
94<br />
Armanino Family Cellars 2010 Amber<br />
Ridge Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley).<br />
Armanino’s 2010 shows a welcome return to form after<br />
the 2009. Indeed, it’s more like the ’08, vastly rich<br />
in raspberry and cherry compote, gingersnap cookie,<br />
sweet, caramelized oak and exotic spice flavors. Feels<br />
like pure silk and satin in the mouth, making it perfect<br />
for drinking now. —S.H.<br />
abv: 15.1% Price: $55<br />
94<br />
Chronicle 2009 Cerise Vineyard Pinot<br />
Noir (Anderson Valley). For full review see<br />
page 3. Cellar Selection.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $60<br />
54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012<br />
94<br />
Chronicle 2009 Savoy Vineyard Pinot<br />
Noir (Anderson Valley). The grapes obviously<br />
were well grown, as this wine shows a particular<br />
intensity of red cherry fruit, as well as minerality. The<br />
acidity is just about perfect, the tannins brisk and fine.<br />
Yet it’s too young to offer full enjoyment. Cellar this polished<br />
Pinot Noir for 4–6 years to let it change in interesting<br />
ways. Cellar Selection. —S.H.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $60<br />
94<br />
Coghlan 2009 Diopside Pinot Noir (Sta.<br />
Rita Hills). For full review see page 4. Cellar<br />
Selection.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $40<br />
94<br />
Kazmer & Blaise 2009 Primo’s Hill Pinot<br />
Noir (Carneros). A terrific Pinot Noir, from a<br />
winery compiling a serious track record. Grown on the<br />
Napa side of Carneros, the wine shows classic Primo’s<br />
Hill character, with the blackberry pie, cola, mushu<br />
plum and sandalwood flavors accented by a little more<br />
acidity than usual. Defined by elegance and complexity,<br />
it’s an ager, although it’s beautiful now right out of<br />
the bottle. Should easily develop through 2015. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.4% Price: $50<br />
94<br />
Merry Edwards 2009 Pinot Noir (Sonoma<br />
Coast). Made from eight vineyards located<br />
throughout this sprawling appellation, this wine<br />
showcases the art of the blend, and is an extraordinary<br />
achievement for its sheer opulence. Offers wave after<br />
wave of Pinot flavor, with superb tannins and mouthwatering<br />
acidity. The fact that this is Merry Edwards’s least<br />
expensive Pinot Noir is amazing and makes it a special<br />
buy. Production was 2,370 cases. Editors’ Choice.<br />
—S.H.<br />
abv: 14.2% Price: $36<br />
94<br />
Native 9 2009 Rancho Ontiveros Vineyards<br />
Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). For<br />
full review see page 4.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $64<br />
94<br />
Pessagno 2009 Four Boys Vineyard Pinot<br />
Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). You<br />
know you’re dealing with a great Pinot Noir when it’s<br />
this delicious right out of the bottle, yet will age. This<br />
wine is enormously rich and sweet in cherries, blackberries,<br />
blueberries and cola, a wine that almost everyone<br />
will find delicious. Yet with thick tannins and brisk acidity,<br />
it has the protective structure to evolve over at least<br />
six years, and possibly longer. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.9% Price: $55<br />
94<br />
Rusack 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir (Sta.<br />
Rita Hills). Who wouldn’t love this Pinot Noir?<br />
It’s zippy in acidity and ripe in briary raspberry and<br />
cherry fruit, with spicy, smoky oak complexity. Really<br />
defines the luxurious silkiness of the appellation. The<br />
grapes are mostly from the Fiddlestix Vineyard, with<br />
the balance hailing from Rio Vista Vineyard. Drink now-<br />
2015. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.3% Price: $40<br />
94<br />
Samsara 2009 Kessler-Haak Vineyard<br />
Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Just wonderful,<br />
showing the great richness and complexity of a top<br />
Santa Rita Pinot Noir. Partial whole-cluster fermentation<br />
gives the wine a spicy earthiness and full-bodied<br />
tannins, yet the underlying red berry and cherry fruit<br />
shines through. Showing well now and over the next six<br />
years. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.4% Price: $46<br />
93<br />
Gundlach Bundschu 2009 Heritage<br />
Selection Estate Pinot Noir (Sonoma<br />
Coast). For full review see page 4.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $48<br />
93<br />
Marimar Estate 2008 Earthquake Block<br />
Don Miguel Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian<br />
River Valley). For full review see page 4.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $47<br />
93<br />
Marimar Estate 2008 Stony Block Don<br />
Miguel Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River<br />
Valley). For full review see page 5.<br />
abv: 14.7% Price: $47<br />
93<br />
Melville 2010 Verna’s Estate Pinot Noir<br />
(Santa Barbara County). Ripeness marks<br />
this Pinot. It floods the mouth with jammy raspberries<br />
and cherries, brightened with acidity. Seems a bit<br />
straightforward by virtue of sheer dazzle, but it is a superb<br />
example of the Santa Rita Hills, at a good price.<br />
Editors’ Choice. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $26<br />
93<br />
Merry Edwards 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian<br />
River Valley). Merry Edwards doesn’t just<br />
slap this regional blend together. This is a combination<br />
of her best vineyards. It’s a wonderful wine, dry, balanced<br />
and deep in berry, spice, cola and earthy flavors.<br />
In many ways, it’s the consummate Russian River Valley<br />
Pinot Noir. Drink now–2015. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.3% Price: $42<br />
93<br />
Morgan 2009 Garys’ Vineyard Pinot Noir<br />
(Santa Lucia Highlands). Morgan’s Pinot<br />
Noirs tend to be dark, full-bodied and dense. They’re<br />
not for fans of a more delicate interpretation, but winemaker<br />
Dan Lee is a master of the big California style.<br />
This ’09, from one of the most famous vineyards in the<br />
Highlands, certainly has heft, packed as it is with cherries,<br />
plums, dark chocolate and exotic spices. It’s very<br />
dry, and will pair well with rich dishes such as lamb and<br />
steak. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.3% Price: $50<br />
93<br />
Samsara 2009 Melville Vineyard Pinot<br />
Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). There’s a barnyardy<br />
funkiness to this Pinot Noir that is frankly fascinating.<br />
Call it Burgundian, but it’s emphatically Californian in<br />
the richness of raspberries and cherries, with their jammy<br />
sweet finish. Earthy tannins and brisk acidity guarantee<br />
that this wine will age well through 2016. Cellar<br />
Selection. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $48<br />
93<br />
Samsara 2009 Rancho La Vina Vineyard<br />
Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Ripe and complex,<br />
offering a wealth of cranberry, cherry, cola and<br />
pomegranate fruit flavors, spiced with clove and cinnamon.<br />
Silky and tart now, with some furry tannins. Just
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