BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast
BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast
94 Coghlan 2009 Diopside Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). While the texture of this Pinot is silky and light, it’s dramatic in flavor. The cherries, plums, pomegranates and persimmons are packed together into a dense core of taste, all spiced up with cinnamon, cloves and anise. Feels dramatic and complex, but young and fresh in acids and tannins. Give it 5–6 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 94 Col d’Orcia 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Here is a particularly impressive wine from one of Montalcino’s top estates. The wine opens with ethereal balsam notes of eucalyptus, humus, dried fruit and dried mint. Beyond those elegant tones are sturdier layers of cured meat and savory spice. It shows bold concentration, thick power and firmness on the close, with a drying mineral finish. Let it age five more years. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $63 94 Dunham 2008 Lewis Vineyard Syrah (Columbia Valley). The artist label Syrah is usually Dunham’s best, as this vineyard is well-established as one of the premier sites in Washington for Syrah. Scents of violets and black cherry introduce a dense, hard, tightly wound, muscular effort that needs a generous amount of breathing time. It rolls through the palate on a train of well-defined fruit, spice and chocolate, all nicely integrated. Supple and long. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: NA Price: $75 4 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012 94 Native 9 2009 Rancho Ontiveros Vineyards Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). A lovely Pinot, dry, crisp and silky, with ripe raspberry, strawberry and cherry fruit flavors, grounded by notes of grilled mushrooms, exotic spices and forest undergrowth. Sweetly delicious now, it should blossom over the next six years. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $64 94 Volker Eisele Family Estate 2008 Alexander Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Made from 100% Cabernet, this is a worthy followup to the extraordinary 2006 and 2007 vintages. Feels fine in the mouth, with rich tannins and dry, elegant flavors of blackberries, cassis, dark chocolate and French oak. The tannins are pure Napa, smooth and complex. Not ready to drink now, but give it a good six years, and it could develop over the next fifteen. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $125 93 Flora Springs 2009 Hillside Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). So softly delicious, it’s probably not an ager, but what a terrific wine to drink now and over the next few years. Really luscious, showing modern-style ripe blackberry, black cherry, cassis and mocha flavors that sink deep and last long into the finish. The tannins and overall structure lift it into classy elegance. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $100 93 Gundlach Bundschu 2009 Heritage Selection Estate Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This is the most expensive Pinot Noir from Gundlach Bundschu in many years, maybe ever, but it’s also easily their best. It’s absolutely delicious in cherries, pomegranates and spices, with a wonderful earthiness that grounds it. So silky and complex, so rewarding to drink now. Great to see this veteran winery coming out with a wine this fine. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $48 93 Marimar Estate 2010 Acero Don Miguel Vineyard Unoaked Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). It’s unbelievable that this Chardonnay is unoaked, it’s so incredibly rich and creamy. Just packed with layers of tropical fruits, peaches, Asian pears and oatmeal cookies. All that butter and cream must be from the malolactic fermentation and aging on the lees. One of the best unoaked Chardonnays ever. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $29 93 Marimar Estate 2008 Earthquake Block Don Miguel Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This block selection from the estate vineyard is planted to the old Pommard clone. It’s an elegantly dry wine, dense in black and red cherry fruit, with hints of cola, wild herbs and spices. Feels very fine and silky in the mouth, and gets better with airing. Drink now and over the next six years. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $47
93 Marimar Estate 2008 Stony Block Don Miguel Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). The winery has been producing more and more low-production block bottlings from their estate vineyard. This one is entirely from the Dijon clone 115. It’s soft, sweet and utterly captivating, a feminine wine of enormous charm, with raspberry, cola and pomegranate flavors, enhanced, of course, by smoky new oak. The acidity is fine, and will protect the wine as it develops over the next six years. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $47 93 Penfolds 2008 RWT Shiraz (Barossa Valley). Full-bodied and richly textured, with Penfolds’ hallmark weight and structure on full display, the 2008 RWT shows a touch of the vintage’s characteristic warmth, but only a touch. The cassis and blackberry fruit is plush, velvety and superripe, ending with hints of tobacco, mint and vanilla. It should drink well for at least a decade. Treasury Wine Estates. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $150 93 Poet’s Leap 2010 Riesling (Columbia Valley). From an especially cool vintage that favored acidity and citrus, this Poet’s Leap is a pretty wine, vibrant and full across the palate, with a mix of apple and peach flavors. Clean and balanced, it adds nuances of tea and finally a hint of honey in the extended finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 12.9% Price: $20 93 Quady 2010 Essensia Orange Muscat (California). Absolutely delicious, an addictive dessert wine. Brisk in acidity and clean in the mouth, if offers fabulously sweet flavors of oranges, vanilla, honey and buttered toast. Drink it with cheesecake and go to heaven. —S.H. abv: 15.4% Price: $25 93 Rodney Strong 2008 Symmetry Meritage (Alexander Valley). Symmetry is Rodney Strong’s most important red wine, the one they pull out all the stops on. It’s usually a hit, and so is this 2008, which is a blend of all five Bordeaux red varieties, but primarily on Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s extraordinarily rich in blackberries, plums, blueberries and cassis, with a surprising meatiness, like beef tartare. The mouthfeel is very soft, suggesting that this wine’s best days are now. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $55 93 Wakefield Estate 2006 St. Andrews Cabernet Sauvignon (Clare Valley). A perennial favorite, Wakefield’s St. Andrews bottling shows how good certain parts of Clare can be for Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2006 displays a masterful blend of cedar, chocolate, mocha, cassis, baking spices and leather, all wrapped in an elegant coat of dusty but supple tannins. Drink 2015–2025. American Wine Distributors. Cellar Selection. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 92 Atlas Peak 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mount Veeder). Good for Atlas Peak for holding this Cabernet for more than five years before releasing it. It’s still tannic and young, with intense blackberry, blueberry and cassis flavors that are dry and spicy. Showing an elegant mouthfeel, it needs a little more time. Hold until 2015, but it could develop over the next decade. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $86 92 Dunham 2008 Lewis Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Tasty and toasty, young and compact, this is a wine to cellar for a few more years at least. The bright fruit flavors run from berry to Bing cherry, not as dark as in some years, but vibrant and crisp. The new oak is not yet fully integrated, so give it some extra bottle age for optimal enjoyment. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $75 92 Fess Parker 2009 Rodney’s Vineyard Syrah (Santa Barbara County). Rich and ripe in blackberry, cassis and smoked meat flavors, this big, bold Syrah is fairly high in alcohol, but wears it well. It has a full-bodied, warm mouthfeel, and is best enjoyed over the next year or two. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $49 WineMag.com | 5
- Page 1 and 2: Clay McLachlan 2 ITALY 29 FRANCE 31
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- Page 7 and 8: 91 Coghlan 2009 Tourmaline Grenache
- Page 9 and 10: 89 Darcie Kent Vineyards 2008 Madde
- Page 11 and 12: 88 BEST BUYS Releaf 2010 Made With
- Page 13 and 14: at the back will undoubtedly increa
- Page 15 and 16: Donna Olga 2007 Le Cacce in Villa 9
- Page 17 and 18: 90 Lazzeretti 2007 Brunello di Mont
- Page 19 and 20: long-lasting. This is a beautiful w
- Page 21 and 22: It’s tannic, firm and ready for a
- Page 23 and 24: ROSSO DI MONTALCINO 91 Capanne Ricc
- Page 25 and 26: 85 La Torre 2010 Rosso di Montalcin
- Page 27 and 28: 86 Collemassari 2010 Gròttolo Ros
- Page 29 and 30: and lemon soda. There’s a sharp,
- Page 31 and 32: texture, it revels in its fresh red
- Page 33 and 34: Devo Enterprises Corporation. Edito
- Page 35 and 36: 89 Cramele Halewood 2009 Kronos Lim
- Page 37 and 38: y. Drink now-2015. The Triton Colle
- Page 39 and 40: in a zesty, mouthwatering finish. D
- Page 41 and 42: turns crisp and edgy on the finish.
- Page 43 and 44: as more standard cassis and berry a
- Page 45 and 46: y and lightly oaky, minty flavors.
- Page 47 and 48: 90 Sarah’s Vineyard 2010 Chardonn
- Page 49 and 50: 91 Coghlan 2009 Tourmaline Grenache
- Page 51 and 52: and oak flavors. It’s one of thos
- Page 53 and 54: 87 Francis Ford Coppola 2009 Direct
93<br />
Marimar Estate 2008 Stony Block Don<br />
Miguel Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River<br />
Valley). The winery has been producing more and<br />
more low-production block bottlings from their estate<br />
vineyard. This one is entirely from the Dijon clone 115.<br />
It’s soft, sweet and utterly captivating, a feminine wine<br />
of enormous charm, with raspberry, cola and pomegranate<br />
flavors, enhanced, of course, by smoky new oak. The<br />
acidity is fine, and will protect the wine as it develops<br />
over the next six years. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.7% Price: $47<br />
93<br />
Penfolds 2008 RWT Shiraz (Barossa Valley).<br />
Full-bodied and richly textured, with Penfolds’<br />
hallmark weight and structure on full display, the<br />
2008 RWT shows a touch of the vintage’s characteristic<br />
warmth, but only a touch. The cassis and blackberry<br />
fruit is plush, velvety and superripe, ending with hints<br />
of tobacco, mint and vanilla. It should drink well for at<br />
least a decade. Treasury <strong>Wine</strong> Estates. —J.C.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $150<br />
93<br />
Poet’s Leap 2010 Riesling (Columbia<br />
Valley). From an especially cool vintage that<br />
favored acidity and citrus, this Poet’s Leap is a pretty<br />
wine, vibrant and full across the palate, with a mix of<br />
apple and peach flavors. Clean and balanced, it adds nuances<br />
of tea and finally a hint of honey in the extended<br />
finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.<br />
abv: 12.9% Price: $20<br />
93<br />
Quady 2010 Essensia Orange Muscat<br />
(California). Absolutely delicious, an addictive<br />
dessert wine. Brisk in acidity and clean in the mouth, if<br />
offers fabulously sweet flavors of oranges, vanilla, honey<br />
and buttered toast. Drink it with cheesecake and go to<br />
heaven. —S.H.<br />
abv: 15.4% Price: $25<br />
93<br />
Rodney Strong 2008 Symmetry Meritage<br />
(Alexander Valley). Symmetry is Rodney<br />
Strong’s most important red wine, the one they pull out<br />
all the stops on. It’s usually a hit, and so is this 2008,<br />
which is a blend of all five Bordeaux red varieties, but<br />
primarily on Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s extraordinarily<br />
rich in blackberries, plums, blueberries and cassis, with<br />
a surprising meatiness, like beef tartare. The mouthfeel<br />
is very soft, suggesting that this wine’s best days are now.<br />
—S.H.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $55<br />
93<br />
Wakefield Estate 2006 St. Andrews Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (Clare Valley). A perennial<br />
favorite, Wakefield’s St. Andrews bottling shows how<br />
good certain parts of Clare can be for Cabernet Sauvignon.<br />
The 2006 displays a masterful blend of cedar,<br />
chocolate, mocha, cassis, baking spices and leather, all<br />
wrapped in an elegant coat of dusty but supple tannins.<br />
Drink 2015–2025. American <strong>Wine</strong> Distributors. Cellar<br />
Selection. —J.C.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $50<br />
92<br />
Atlas Peak 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Mount Veeder). Good for Atlas Peak for<br />
holding this Cabernet for more than five years before<br />
releasing it. It’s still tannic and young, with intense<br />
blackberry, blueberry and cassis flavors that are dry and<br />
spicy. Showing an elegant mouthfeel, it needs a little<br />
more time. Hold until 2015, but it could develop over<br />
the next decade. Cellar Selection. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.6% Price: $86<br />
92<br />
Dunham 2008 Lewis Vineyard Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Tasty and<br />
toasty, young and compact, this is a wine to cellar for a<br />
few more years at least. The bright fruit flavors run from<br />
berry to Bing cherry, not as dark as in some years, but vibrant<br />
and crisp. The new oak is not yet fully integrated,<br />
so give it some extra bottle age for optimal enjoyment.<br />
Cellar Selection. —P.G.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $75<br />
92<br />
Fess Parker 2009 Rodney’s Vineyard<br />
Syrah (Santa Barbara County). Rich and<br />
ripe in blackberry, cassis and smoked meat flavors, this<br />
big, bold Syrah is fairly high in alcohol, but wears it well.<br />
It has a full-bodied, warm mouthfeel, and is best enjoyed<br />
over the next year or two. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.9% Price: $49<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>Mag.com | 5