BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast

Bonarda. On the money for this variety. Kysela Père et
Fils. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $16
88
Sur de los Andes 2010 Bonarda (Mendoza).
Exotic on the nose, with aromas of raspberry,
plum and blueberry. Shows good intensity on the palate,
with a solid feel and fresh flavors of blackberry and
dark plum. Fresh but smooth on the finish; very good in
every way. Winery Direct. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.9% Price: $12
87
Alma del Sur 2010 Colección Bonarda
(Mendoza). Interesting aromas of graham
cracker, pastry, blackberry, dark cherry and tomato all
work well together. The palate is full and easy, with
some weight to it along with flavors of black plum and
berry. Not exuberant on the finish; it ends in mellow,
lightly medicinal fashion. Martin Scott Wines. Best
Buy. —M.S.
abv: NA Price: $10
86
Las Perdices 2009 Reserva Bonarda (Luján
de Cuyo). Concentrated and dark upfront,
with black fruit, coffee, chocolate and cheese aromas.
Full and extracted in the mouth, as flavors of charred
wood, blackberry and black pepper take over. Turns hot
and darker on the finish, where bitter chocolate and
peppercorn flavors rise up. Matadorvino LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $20
86
Maipe 2011 Andean Culture Bonarda
(Mendoza). Red berry, sweet cherry and ripe
plum aromas come with a touch of leather. The palate
feels a bit sharp and acidic, with tangy, juicy flavors of
plum and wild berry as well as some stalkiness. Cleansing
and long on the finish thanks to high acidity. Kysela
Père et Fils. —M.S.
abv: 13% Price: $13
85
Caligiore 2010 Reserve Bonarda (Mendoza).
A medicinal quality comes at you right
away, followed by chocolate-coated cherry, creamy oak
and a distant note of paint or chemical. Feels round and
voluminous, with minty, rubbery flavors of oaky, berry
and chocolate. Finishes dry and oaky, with a buttery aftertaste.
Marquee Selections. —M.S.
abv: 13.9% Price: $15
84
Mi Terruño 2009 Reserve Bonarda (Mendoza).
Rubber, plastic and black fruit aromas.
Feels fat and buttery, but with a streak of acidity that
gives it pulse. Flavors of red berry come with oaky support,
and the finish is sweet, oaky and warm. Copa Fina
Imports CA. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $17
84
Tierra Prometida 2008 Clasico Bonarda
(Mendoza). Plum, red berry and wild herb
aromas combine to create a briary whole. As it airs, the
nose turns lemony and hard, while the mouthfeel is
tight and limited, with herbal, saucy, red berry flavors.
Tomato and basil notes appear on the finish. Frontier
Wine Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13.9% Price: $18
81
Viñas de Vila 2009 Reserva Bonarda
(Mendoza). Smells grassy, jumpy and foxy,
46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011
and while it sports a decent feel on the palate, it’s herbal
and tomatoey in terms of flavor, with a vegetal undertone.
Green and oaky on the finish. Puerto Viejo Wines.
—M.S.
abv: 13% Price: $10
RED BLENDS
92
Finca Flichman 2008 Dedicado (Mendoza).
For full review see page 6.
abv: 14.5% Price: $30
92
Vistalba 2008 Corte A (Mendoza). Beefy
black-fruit aromas are inviting for their accents
of licorice, coconut and crushed minerals. Feels lush,
layered and intense, the perfect framework for lusty
blackberry, toast, mineral and espresso flavors. Long,
warm and dense on the finish. Drink now through 2016;
made from Malbec, Bonarda and Cab Sauvignon. San
Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S.
abv: 15% Price: $50
90
Vistalba 2008 Corte B (Mendoza). Approachable,
high in quality and made from a
mix of Malbec, Cabernet and Bonarda. Smells of lead
pencil, blackberry and dark plum. Feels friendly and
smooth, with lightly buttered oak leading licorice, black
pepper, chocolate and roasted berry flavors. Offers a
lot of good things for the price. Drink now–2015. San
Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S.
abv: 15% Price: $25
89
O. Fournier 2008 B Crux (Uco Valley).
Opens with horsey, leathery aromas that are
funky and wild, but are surrounded by solid berry-fruit
scents. Picks up steam on the palate, which is easygoing,
solidly built and just firm enough. Tastes of blackberry,
cola, spice and chocolate, then finishes smooth and
creamy. Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S.
abv: 15% Price: $25
85
Cicchitti 2008 Blend Edición Limitada
(Mendoza). An odd blend of Pinot Noir, Sangiovese
and Merlot that starts out with aromas of bramble,
brick dust and baked berries. Feels tannic and grabby
initially, before spreading out wide and flat. Tastes
stewy and herbal, with chocolate and spice notes. Probably
strained and strange for the average consumer. 600
cases made. The Artisan Collection. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $22
CALIFORNIA
CHARDONNAY
94
Dutton Estate 2010 Dutton Palms Vineyard
Dutton Ranch Chardonnay (Russian
River Valley). The vineyard is in the coolest part of
the Green Valley of the Russian River Valley. The wine,
which is totally dry, is marked by brilliant acidity and
long hangtime flavors of oranges, Meyer lemons and
kiwi fruit, enriched by barrel fermentation and aging.
—S.H.
abv: 14.4% Price: $40
94
Kazmer & Blaise 2009 Boon Fly’s Hill
Chardonnay (Carneros). This is one of the
most Chablis-style Chardonnays on the market. It’s
bone dry, and has a steely, minerally elegance made
complex with layers of pineapples and limes, and even
a honeysuckle richness. The oak, interestingly, comes
from Hungary. A terrific wine, far from the overoaked,
buttered popcorn style so popular now. Production was
only 227 cases. —S.H.
abv: 14.4% Price: $50
93
Dutton Estate 2010 Kyndall’s Reserve
Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This
Chardonnay was blended from several vineyards in
Dutton’s extensive portfolio. It’s not only a great example
of the art of blending, it’s a fine wine in itself,
showing brisk acidity and dryness, with rich, complex
orange, Meyer lemon, kiwi fruit, honeysuckle and buttered
toast flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.2% Price: $37
93
Marimar Estate 2010 Acero Don Miguel
Vineyard Unoaked Chardonnay (Russian
River Valley). For full review see page 4. Editors’
Choice.
abv: 13.5% Price: $29
92
Hunnicutt 2010 Chardonnay (Napa Valley).
Good acidity in this Chardonnay provides
a brisk balance to the ripe pineapple, passion fruit, pear
and spice flavors. Made in the modern style, it has a
minerality that lifts it and provides interest. —S.H.
abv: 14.1% Price: $45
92
Marimar Estate 2009 La Masía Don
Miguel Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian
River Valley). For full review see page 6.
abv: 14.3% Price: $35
90
Flora Springs 2010 Barrel Fermented
Chardonnay (Napa Valley). For full review
see page 7.
abv: 14.1% Price: $30
90
Melville 2010 Clone 76 Inox Chardonnay
(Sta. Rita Hills). Very acidic, giving the ripe
tropical fruit and green pea flavors an almost sparkling
spritziness. But very rich and flamboyant and complex.
This wine was tasted at just about a year of age, and
should calm down by summer 2012. —S.H.
abv: 14.5% Price: $36
90
Melville 2010 Estate Chardonnay (Sta.
Rita Hills). Acidity and ripe fruit mark this
Chardonnay, which is lovely to drink now. Don’t chill it
too much, to allow the orange, pineapple and passionfruit
flavors to express their nuances. —S.H.
abv: 13.8% Price: $26
90
Robert Young 2009 Estate Chardonnay
(Alexander Valley). Sure is easy to like this
Chardonnay, with its rich flavors of honey, pineapples,
peaches, crême brulée, vanilla and cinnamon spice. It
seems almost sweet, but zesty acidity and minerality
pull it back into dryness and elegance. —S.H.
abv: NA Price: $42