BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast

BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast

28.02.2013 Views

88 Lexicon 2011 Malbec (Mendoza). Jammy and generous smelling, with pastry and solid black-fruit aromas. Feels good and balanced for a young Malbec, with flavors of sweet plum, blackberry and a medicinal character. Plump and fruity on the finish, and steady wire to wire. Kysela Père et Fils. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 88 Mi Terruño 2008 Mayacaba Malbec (Mendoza). A big, dark, extracted Malbec with murky lead aromas of Graham cracker and sweet blueberry. The palate is jammy and chunky, with dark, earthy flavors of prune, blackberry and raisin. Finishes a bit pruny, but there’s enough acidity to maintain a sense of balance. Drink now. Copa Fina Imports CA. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 88 Nice 2008 Malbec (Mendoza). Floral red fruit aromas carry a hint of minerality and garrigue. The palate is lively, with good overall balance. Tastes of ripe red plum, raspberry and vanilla, while the finish is light in weight and quick, but satisfying. Nice Winery. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 88 Nuna 2010 Reserve Malbec (Mendoza). Bright, vivid and sizzling on the nose, then zesty, tight and acidic in the mouth, with high-toned plum, berry and red currant flavors offset by a touch of milk chocolate. Long on the finish, but not that nuanced or complex. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $17 88 Septima 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Warm, slightly leathery and earthy on the nose, with a hint of cheese. Feels full, nice and solid, with decent depth. Flavors of black fruits and pastry are friendly, while the finish is pleasant. Delivers all it can for the price. Aveniù Brands, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $11 88 Solsticio 2008 Malbec (Mendoza). A big wine that handles its 15.3% abv. Smells of pastry, earth and soft berry fruit. Feels round but reticent, with no fire or heat but plenty of blackberry, molasses and coffee. Mellow, toasty and blackened on the finish, with an earthy feel and a baked aftertaste. Solsticio LLC. —M.S. abv: 15.3% Price: $15 88 Tango Reàl 2008 Gran Reserva Malbec (San Rafael). Plum and berry aromas are straightforward, but also clean and nice. The palate on this wine from San Rafael is focused and orderly, with flavors of red fruits, spice and mild woody notes. Long lasting on the finish, with freshness and just a modicum of tannic bite. Tango LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 88 Viña Cobos 2010 Felino Malbec (Mendoza). Fiery, foxy and leathery on the bouquet, with a hint of latex in addition to ripe blackberry aromas. Feels round and fresh, with a complete mix of plum, berry and currant flavors. Finishes tight and legit, with good length and feel. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 44 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012 87 Altocedro 2011 Año Cero Malbec (La Consulta). Concentrated aromas of blackberry come with leather and dried-cheese scents. The palate is full in depth and solid in feel, with flavors of creamy oak, medicinality and blackberry. Feels rich, grabby and tastes resiny on the finish, but there’s enough solid black fruit to override the oak. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 14.7% Price: $19 87 Arge & Tina 2009 Malbec (San Juan). Honest plum and berry aromas get it going, followed by a fresh, comfortable palate with raspberry and plum flavors and nonpushy tannins. Feels entirely clean, with a pleasant red-fruit aftertaste. Everyday Malbec that gets it right. IBESC Wine Distributor. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $8 87 Colomé 2008 Reserva Malbec (Calchaqui Valley). Smells cheesy and leathery, with herbal notes. Feels condensed and flat, as if it’s collapsing on itself. Flavors of baked berry and prune are dark and typical of very ripe Malbec, while the finish is warm but basic in feel and flavor. Bullish, sweet and heavy. Not Colomé’s best effort, especially given the price. Hess Collection. —M.S. abv: 15.9% Price: $90 87 Finca Sophenia 2010 Altosur Malbec (Tupungato). Fresh, clean and pure, with standard dark berry aromas. Feels round, creamy and chewy, while the flavors tend towards black fruits and no shortage of oak. Tastes toasty and feels resiny on the finish, with vanilla and berry syrup filling up the aftertaste. The Country Vintner. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12 87 Finca Sophenia 2010 Reserve Malbec (Tupungato). Forceful from the opening, with floral notes, dark oak, shoe polish and char vying with black fruit aromas. Feels both lush and tough, with hard tannins poking through. Tastes of black fruits, cola and heavily toasted oak. Bittersweet on the finish; lusty and black but neither elegant nor light on its feet. The Country Vintner. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $18 87 Lamadrid 2010 Single Vineyard Malbec (Agrelo). Dense and inky on the bouquet, with blueberry as the core fruit aroma and some grass or alfalfa around the edges. Feels blocky and tannic, with sweet, roasted flavors of black fruits that come with a peppery aftertaste. Full on the finish, with coconut and oaky accents. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $18 87 Maipe 2011 Andean Culture Malbec (Mendoza). Opens with berry fruit aromas, density and slightly medicinal notes. Feels bright and lively, with ample acidity pushing toasty, lightly herbal flavors of blackberry and plum. Shows mild spice, licorice and barrel notes on the finish, along with herbal notes. Seems like a very good everyday or value-driven choice. Kysela Père et Fils. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 87 Nomade 2008 Malbec (Mendoza). Dry and unusual smelling, with baking spice, cinnamon and exotic notes. Not your normal black-fruited bruiser; this wine spreads out in the mouth, with sweet flavors of nutmeg along with dry plum and berry fruit. Lively and warm on the finish, with zest and an herbal element. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.S. abv: 14.2% Price: $18 87 Terrazas de Los Andes 2009 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). Black fruit aromas feature a touch of licorice. Feels lively and alert, with edgy acids and juicy, forward flavors of plum and wild berry. Toasty, integrated and spicy on the finish, with pinches of green and black pepper. Moët Hennessy USA. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $18 86 Alberti 154 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Black fruit aromas and rubber on the nose. Feels good in the mouth, with proper weight and balance. Tastes ripe and fairly sweet; blackberry and dark plum flavors turn peppery with time. Easy to drink Malbec. Southern Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $13 86 Bodega Poesia 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Earthy and leathery on the bouquet, with a cooked, charred element. Feels drawing but solid, with choppy tannins and flavors of baked berries, herbs and charred oak. Finishes warm and meaty, with an herbal note. Bob Bofman Selections. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $15 86 Familia Cassone 2010 La Florencia Malbec (Luján de Cuyo). Char and hickory override fruit on the bouquet, while the palate is full, round and falls into form with time in the glass. Tastes of forward oak and spice along with berry and plum fruit. Toasty and warm on the finish, but oaky and resiny. Bedford International. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $12 86 Pampano 2009 Malbec (Mendoza). Fruity and friendly on the nose, with composure and solid aromas. Feels both plump and dry, with toasty black-fruit flavors accented by peppery spice that turns slightly bitter on the finish. Good and dark overall, with limited follow-through on the finish. Five Gold Hands. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 86 Rio Perdido 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Exotic and unusual for value-priced Malbec, with aromas of blueberry and Middle Eastern spice. Feels chunky yet juicy, with good acidity highlighting lightly herbal flavors of plum and tomato. Meaty, round and solid on the finish, with saucy spiciness. Southern Starz, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 86 Ruca Malen 2009 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). Smells sort of furry and earthy initially, with notes of graphite and woodspice. Feels narrow and grabby, with pointed acididty framing red plum, cher-

y and lightly oaky, minty flavors. Fits the definition of good but regular Malbec. Opici Wines. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $18 86 Salentein 2010 Killka Collection Malbec (Uco Valley). On the nose, there’s an early whiff of nail polish that resolves itself in jammy black fruit aromas. Good on the palate, with just enough acidic grab in front of a full blast of berry flavors and an aftershock of chocolate. Finishes grapy. Palm Bay International. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15 86 Sur de los Andes 2009 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). Opens with aromas of black cherry and waves of resiny oak. Has good body and grabby barrel tannins along with a palate that deals dark berry flavor and even more oakiness. Tastes resiny and saucy on the finish; cleans up as it airs. Winery Direct. —M.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $15 86 Zolo 2008 Reserve Malbec (Mendoza). Inky and superconcentrated on the bouquet, with grapey fruit notes and density to spare. Feels grabby and angular, with some astringency to the tannins and huge flavors of black plum, blackberry and iodine. Thick and sticky on the finish; ripe to the max. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20 85 Casa de Campo 2011 Malbec (Mendoza). Stalky smelling at first but good on the nose thanks to a solid berry core and leathery accents. Feels fresh and pinched, with medicinal flavors matched by equal amounts of red fruit and oak. Finishes clean but short, with decent weight. Indigo Wine Group. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $8 85 Cueva de las Manos 2010 Reserve Malbec (Mendoza). Granular and punchy upfront, with heat and animal fur aromas on the nose. Settles with airing, revealing a heavy but solid palate with plenty of oak and candied red-fruit flavors. Falls off on the finish, with mint, resin and herbal notes. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15 85 Doña Silvina 2008 Malbec (Mendoza). Jammy and dusty smelling, with black fruit notes, a touch of plastic and mild scratchiness. Feels tight and grating, with red-fruit flavors that are snappy and tempered by sweet oak notes. Finishes scratchy and tannic, with berry, pepper and licorice flavors. Mistica Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $25 85 Espuela del Gaucho 2010 Limited Edition Reserve Malbec (Mendoza). Slightly herbal plum and berry aromas come with a pinch of spice and meatiness. Feels medium-bodied and crisp, with juicy red-fruit flavors of plum, tomato and raspberry. Dries out on the finish, where it becomes more herbal and roasted. Winery Exchange. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 85 Tamarí 2010 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). Crusty, rubbery aromas smell a bit burnt, while leather and berry aromas, rest below the surface. The palate is full, edgy and a little tangy, with red plum, herb and tomato flavors. Mild and saucy tasting on the finish. Terlato Wines International. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $13 85 Tierra Prometida 2008 Clasico Malbec (Mendoza). Opens with minerally, almost metallic aromas, along with rubber and berry mixed in. Feels fresh and ready, with plum, berry and chocolaty flavors. Finishes with a smooth feel, but maybe it could use a bit more cut and tannic structure. A wine that falls squarely in the middle zone. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $18 84 Cas’Almare 2009 Malbec (Mendoza). Minty on the nose, with hints of cured meat, burnt field and spice. Feels fresh, with medicinal plum flavors and oak taking over after the fruit falls off. Finishes lightly spicy and drying. More balanced and less oaky than the winery’s ’09 reserva. Cas’Almare Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $15 84 TintoNegro 2010 Co-Ferment Malbec (Mendoza). Rubbery on first take, with sweet chocolate and carob aromas. Feels pretty thick, with a creamy lead into an herbal-tasting palate that’s crowded with oak and milk chocolate flavors. Turns resiny on the finish. Vineyard Brands. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20 84 TintoNegro 2010 Uco Valley Reserve Malbec (Mendoza). Foxy and jumpy on the nose, with candied red-berry and cherry aromas. Feels resiny, but there’s enough acid to keep it moving forward. Flavors of plum and berry come with a lot of oak and barrel influence. Finishes resiny, with hints of vanilla and a burnt quality. Vineyard Brands. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $17 84 Trapiche 2010 Zaphy Malbec (Argentina). Full of red-fruit aromas, particularly plum and cherry. Feels raw, with wild berry, ample oak and a lot of acid-based tang to the palate. Lightly toasty, with a mild cherry flavor to the finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 83 Laberinto 2009 Malbec (Mendoza). Strange smelling, with aromas of exotic spices, blueberry and some other notes that don’t come across that well. Feels solid and chunky, with herbal, sweet flavors that culminate in a dry, rubbery, herbal-tasting finish. A.W. Direct. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 83 Manos Negras 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Smells different than most, with blueberry, carob and exotic sandalwood. Takes a dive on the palate, where it’s sweet, syrupy and flat, almost like prune juice. Along those lines, it tastes pruny, with chocolate on the finish. Struggles to achieve balance. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15 83 Ruca Malen 2010 Yauquén Malbec (Mendoza). Smells unruly, with animal notes, heavy char, rubber and mulchy earth. Gets better with airing, but seems thick on the palate, with stewed berry and mild green notes. Herbal, roasted and sort of weedy on the finish. Has been better in the past. Opici Wines. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $12 83 Viñas de Vila 2008 Gran Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). The grapy nose announces a heavy, flat type of Malbec with intense color but not much in the way of acidic lift or excitement. Feels gummy, with jammy, sweet flavors of blueberry and clove. Stays sweet and sticky on the finish. Puerto Viejo Wines. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $14 82 Caligiore 2009 Family Vineyards Organic Legacy Old Vines Single Vineyard Malbec (Mendoza). Foxy cherry and cough drop aromas are not convincing. Feels astringent and tastes tart, with sharp but candied cherry, faux oak and milk chocolate flavors. Blends sour notes with sweet oak, all to little avail. Marquee Selections. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $25 82 Camino del Inca 2011 Malbec (Cafayate). The bouquet is demanding, with burnt tire rubber, horse, heavy char and muddled black-fruit aromas. Feels closed and tastes buttery and burnt, with barrel char and resin sitting heavily atop herbal berry flavors. A heavily made-up wine. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15 82 Michel Torino 2010 Don David Reserve Malbec (Calchaqui Valley). Burnt and roasted up front, with a leathery nose that doesn’t convey freshness. Feels choppy and acidic, with herbal, semitart flavors of burnt berry fruit. Minty and green on the finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $16 81 Antigua Bodega 2009 Malbec (San Juan). Smells strongly of corn, stalky fruit, herbs and grass. Mouthfeel is not a problem, although it’s a little sticky on the palate. Tastes heavily herbal and green, with an oaky covering. Short, woody and herbal on the finish. Mistica Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12 BONARDA 89 Lamadrid 2009 Single Vineyard Reserva Bonarda (Agrelo). Big blackberry aromas show very little rusticity. Feels full but smooth and balanced, with a nice mix of wild berry, spice and fine herb flavors. Mellow and not pushy on the finish. Really good for Bonarda. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $19 89 Maipe 2010 Reserve Old Vine Bonarda (Mendoza). Clean, pure and uncomplicated on the nose, showing depth and clarity. Smells and tastes much like a good Malbec or Cabernet might; it’s sweet and fruity, with black cherry, pastry, baking spices and a certain rubbery quality that seems to come with WineMag.com | 45

88<br />

Lexicon 2011 Malbec (Mendoza). Jammy<br />

and generous smelling, with pastry and solid<br />

black-fruit aromas. Feels good and balanced for a<br />

young Malbec, with flavors of sweet plum, blackberry<br />

and a medicinal character. Plump and fruity on the finish,<br />

and steady wire to wire. Kysela Père et Fils. Best<br />

Buy. —M.S.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $13<br />

88<br />

Mi Terruño 2008 Mayacaba Malbec<br />

(Mendoza). A big, dark, extracted Malbec<br />

with murky lead aromas of Graham cracker and sweet<br />

blueberry. The palate is jammy and chunky, with dark,<br />

earthy flavors of prune, blackberry and raisin. Finishes a<br />

bit pruny, but there’s enough acidity to maintain a sense<br />

of balance. Drink now. Copa Fina Imports CA. —M.S.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $50<br />

88<br />

Nice 2008 Malbec (Mendoza). Floral red<br />

fruit aromas carry a hint of minerality and garrigue.<br />

The palate is lively, with good overall balance.<br />

Tastes of ripe red plum, raspberry and vanilla, while the<br />

finish is light in weight and quick, but satisfying. Nice<br />

<strong>Wine</strong>ry. —M.S.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $30<br />

88<br />

Nuna 2010 Reserve Malbec (Mendoza).<br />

Bright, vivid and sizzling on the nose, then zesty,<br />

tight and acidic in the mouth, with high-toned plum,<br />

berry and red currant flavors offset by a touch of milk<br />

chocolate. Long on the finish, but not that nuanced or<br />

complex. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $17<br />

88<br />

Septima 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Warm,<br />

slightly leathery and earthy on the nose, with a<br />

hint of cheese. Feels full, nice and solid, with decent<br />

depth. Flavors of black fruits and pastry are friendly,<br />

while the finish is pleasant. Delivers all it can for the<br />

price. Aveniù Brands, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $11<br />

88<br />

Solsticio 2008 Malbec (Mendoza). A big<br />

wine that handles its 15.3% abv. Smells of pastry,<br />

earth and soft berry fruit. Feels round but reticent,<br />

with no fire or heat but plenty of blackberry, molasses<br />

and coffee. Mellow, toasty and blackened on the finish,<br />

with an earthy feel and a baked aftertaste. Solsticio<br />

LLC. —M.S.<br />

abv: 15.3% Price: $15<br />

88<br />

Tango Reàl 2008 Gran Reserva Malbec<br />

(San Rafael). Plum and berry aromas are<br />

straightforward, but also clean and nice. The palate on<br />

this wine from San Rafael is focused and orderly, with<br />

flavors of red fruits, spice and mild woody notes. Long<br />

lasting on the finish, with freshness and just a modicum<br />

of tannic bite. Tango LLC. —M.S.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $25<br />

88<br />

Viña Cobos 2010 Felino Malbec (Mendoza).<br />

Fiery, foxy and leathery on the bouquet,<br />

with a hint of latex in addition to ripe blackberry<br />

aromas. Feels round and fresh, with a complete mix of<br />

plum, berry and currant flavors. Finishes tight and legit,<br />

with good length and feel. Paul Hobbs <strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.S.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $20<br />

44 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012<br />

87<br />

Altocedro 2011 Año Cero Malbec (La<br />

Consulta). Concentrated aromas of blackberry<br />

come with leather and dried-cheese scents. The palate<br />

is full in depth and solid in feel, with flavors of creamy<br />

oak, medicinality and blackberry. Feels rich, grabby and<br />

tastes resiny on the finish, but there’s enough solid black<br />

fruit to override the oak. Vino Del Sol. —M.S.<br />

abv: 14.7% Price: $19<br />

87<br />

Arge & Tina 2009 Malbec (San Juan).<br />

Honest plum and berry aromas get it going,<br />

followed by a fresh, comfortable palate with raspberry<br />

and plum flavors and nonpushy tannins. Feels entirely<br />

clean, with a pleasant red-fruit aftertaste. Everyday<br />

Malbec that gets it right. IBESC <strong>Wine</strong> Distributor. Best<br />

Buy. —M.S.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $8<br />

87<br />

Colomé 2008 Reserva Malbec (Calchaqui<br />

Valley). Smells cheesy and leathery, with<br />

herbal notes. Feels condensed and flat, as if it’s collapsing<br />

on itself. Flavors of baked berry and prune are dark<br />

and typical of very ripe Malbec, while the finish is warm<br />

but basic in feel and flavor. Bullish, sweet and heavy.<br />

Not Colomé’s best effort, especially given the price.<br />

Hess Collection. —M.S.<br />

abv: 15.9% Price: $90<br />

87<br />

Finca Sophenia 2010 Altosur Malbec<br />

(Tupungato). Fresh, clean and pure, with<br />

standard dark berry aromas. Feels round, creamy and<br />

chewy, while the flavors tend towards black fruits and no<br />

shortage of oak. Tastes toasty and feels resiny on the finish,<br />

with vanilla and berry syrup filling up the aftertaste.<br />

The Country Vintner. Best Buy. —M.S.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $12<br />

87<br />

Finca Sophenia 2010 Reserve Malbec<br />

(Tupungato). Forceful from the opening,<br />

with floral notes, dark oak, shoe polish and char vying<br />

with black fruit aromas. Feels both lush and tough, with<br />

hard tannins poking through. Tastes of black fruits, cola<br />

and heavily toasted oak. Bittersweet on the finish; lusty<br />

and black but neither elegant nor light on its feet. The<br />

Country Vintner. —M.S.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $18<br />

87<br />

Lamadrid 2010 Single Vineyard Malbec<br />

(Agrelo). Dense and inky on the bouquet, with<br />

blueberry as the core fruit aroma and some grass or alfalfa<br />

around the edges. Feels blocky and tannic, with<br />

sweet, roasted flavors of black fruits that come with a<br />

peppery aftertaste. Full on the finish, with coconut and<br />

oaky accents. Vino Del Sol. —M.S.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $18<br />

87<br />

Maipe 2011 Andean Culture Malbec<br />

(Mendoza). Opens with berry fruit aromas,<br />

density and slightly medicinal notes. Feels bright and<br />

lively, with ample acidity pushing toasty, lightly herbal<br />

flavors of blackberry and plum. Shows mild spice, licorice<br />

and barrel notes on the finish, along with herbal<br />

notes. Seems like a very good everyday or value-driven<br />

choice. Kysela Père et Fils. Best Buy. —M.S.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $13<br />

87<br />

Nomade 2008 Malbec (Mendoza). Dry<br />

and unusual smelling, with baking spice, cinnamon<br />

and exotic notes. Not your normal black-fruited<br />

bruiser; this wine spreads out in the mouth, with sweet<br />

flavors of nutmeg along with dry plum and berry fruit.<br />

Lively and warm on the finish, with zest and an herbal<br />

element. Domaine Select <strong>Wine</strong> Estates. —M.S.<br />

abv: 14.2% Price: $18<br />

87<br />

Terrazas de Los Andes 2009 Reserva<br />

Malbec (Mendoza). Black fruit aromas feature<br />

a touch of licorice. Feels lively and alert, with edgy<br />

acids and juicy, forward flavors of plum and wild berry.<br />

Toasty, integrated and spicy on the finish, with pinches<br />

of green and black pepper. Moët Hennessy USA.<br />

—M.S.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $18<br />

86<br />

Alberti 154 2010 Malbec (Mendoza).<br />

Black fruit aromas and rubber on the nose.<br />

Feels good in the mouth, with proper weight and balance.<br />

Tastes ripe and fairly sweet; blackberry and dark<br />

plum flavors turn peppery with time. Easy to drink Malbec.<br />

Southern <strong>Wine</strong> Group. —M.S.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $13<br />

86<br />

Bodega Poesia 2010 Malbec (Mendoza).<br />

Earthy and leathery on the bouquet, with a<br />

cooked, charred element. Feels drawing but solid, with<br />

choppy tannins and flavors of baked berries, herbs and<br />

charred oak. Finishes warm and meaty, with an herbal<br />

note. Bob Bofman Selections. —M.S.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $15<br />

86<br />

Familia Cassone 2010 La Florencia Malbec<br />

(Luján de Cuyo). Char and hickory override<br />

fruit on the bouquet, while the palate is full, round<br />

and falls into form with time in the glass. Tastes of forward<br />

oak and spice along with berry and plum fruit.<br />

Toasty and warm on the finish, but oaky and resiny. Bedford<br />

International. —M.S.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $12<br />

86<br />

Pampano 2009 Malbec (Mendoza). Fruity<br />

and friendly on the nose, with composure and<br />

solid aromas. Feels both plump and dry, with toasty<br />

black-fruit flavors accented by peppery spice that turns<br />

slightly bitter on the finish. Good and dark overall, with<br />

limited follow-through on the finish. Five Gold Hands.<br />

Best Buy. —M.S.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $10<br />

86<br />

Rio Perdido 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Exotic<br />

and unusual for value-priced Malbec, with<br />

aromas of blueberry and Middle Eastern spice. Feels<br />

chunky yet juicy, with good acidity highlighting lightly<br />

herbal flavors of plum and tomato. Meaty, round and<br />

solid on the finish, with saucy spiciness. Southern Starz,<br />

Inc. —M.S.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $12<br />

86<br />

Ruca Malen 2009 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza).<br />

Smells sort of furry and earthy initially,<br />

with notes of graphite and woodspice. Feels narrow and<br />

grabby, with pointed acididty framing red plum, cher-

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