BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast

GRENACHE
93
Clarendon Hills 2008 Romas Grenache
(Clarendon). Full-bodied and lush in style,
with aromas of cherries and spice. On the palate, it delivers
waves of fresh fruit and hints of cocoa, but also
enough complexity to hold your interest before finishing
on a long, mouthwatering note. Drink now–2016. E
& J Gallo. —J.C.
abv: 14.5% Price: $75
92
Clarendon Hills 2008 Kangarilla Grenache
(Clarendon). Depending on the vintage,
any of Clarendon Hills’ Grenaches can excel. In
2008, Kangarilla offers a lovely texture somewhere between
fine silt and silk. Brandied cherries give an impression
of warmth, balanced by herbal nuances and
reined in by that fine-grained texture. Drink now–2015.
E & J Gallo. —J.C.
abv: 14.5% Price: $50
91
Chapel Hill 2008 Bush Vine Grenache
(McLaren Vale). This ripe Grenache is fullbodied
and fruit-driven, but seems to have the stuffing
to last at least 3–4 years. Cherry-berry flavors are
punched up by herb and spice shadings that linger on
the finish. Baum Wine Imports Inc. —J.C.
abv: 14.5% Price: $29
91
Clarendon Hills 2008 Blewitt Springs Grenache
(Clarendon). Featuring some dusty
tannins on the finish, this is fairly structured for Aussie
Grenache. Dried herbs and dried cherries are balanced
by hints of dusty earth on the long finish. Drink 2013–
2017. E & J Gallo. —J.C.
abv: 14.5% Price: $50
SHIRAZ/SYRAH
94
John Duval Wines 2008 Eligo Shiraz
(Barossa). Duval used to make Grange, so it
is no surprise that his current luxury Shiraz is so successful.
The 2008 Eligo oozes with oaky sweetness—vanilla,
maple syrup and brown sugar notes—but balances
that with potent cassis fruit and somehow ends on dry,
savory notes of tobacco and spice. Drink now-2018, although
it could surprise and go longer. Old Bridge Cellars.
—J.C.
abv: 14.5% Price: $100
93
Penfolds 2008 RWT Shiraz (Barossa Valley).
For full review see page 5.
abv: 14.5% Price: $150
92
Grant Burge 2009 Miamba Shiraz (Barossa).
This full-bodied, creamy-textured Shiraz
from the Lyndoch subregion of the Barossa starts off
with vanilla, raspberries and a dusting of confectioner’s
sugar, but turns darker and more savory with air, adding
dark berry and hickory notes. The long finish is richly
textured, yet simultaneously marked by crisp acids. Wilson
Daniels Ltd. —J.C.
abv: 14.5% Price: $28
92
Groom 2009 Shiraz (Barossa Valley).
Winemaker Daryl Groom has crafted an expansive
Shiraz that’s full bodied and lushly textured but not
40 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012
unstructured. Flavors of blackberry and mocha weave
in and out with notes of cola, chocolate and black olive
on the softly lingering finish. Drink now–2018. Groom
Wines. —J.C.
abv: 14.5% Price: $38
91
Chapel Hill 2008 The Vicar Shiraz (McLaren
Vale). A brutish, muscular style of Shiraz,
filled with intense notes of plum and tar and accented
by hints of coconut and vanilla. Yet for all its concentration
and richness, the finish is surprisingly elegant.
Drink now–2018. Baum Wine Imports Inc. —J.C.
abv: 14.5% Price: $65
91
Coriole 2008 Estate Grown Shiraz
(McLaren Vale). A perfect recreational player’s
drive, right down the middle of the fairway, this
wine neatly splits the range of flavors between savory
and fruity, blending meaty, olive notes with mixed berries
and vanilla. Long and lushly textured on the finish,
like velvet. Drink now–2020. The Country Vintner. Editors’
Choice. —J.C.
abv: 14% Price: $22
91
Glaetzer 2010 Bishop Shiraz (Barossa
Valley). Soft and lush, this is a decadent
mouthful of blackberries and plums framed by ample
vanilla. It’s balanced, in its own open-knit, easy-drinking
style, with a sexy, drink-me-now immediacy that some
may find too obvious. Epicurean Wines. —J.C.
abv: 15.1% Price: $36
91
Kilikanoon 2009 Killerman’s Run Shiraz
(South Australia). For full review see page 7.
Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.5% Price: $20
91
Rosedale Wines 2009 Cat Amongst the
Pigeons Nine Lives Shiraz (Barossa). A
superb value, this wine’s weighty presence and rich texture
convey the warmth of the Barossa without ever
stepping over into overripeness. Instead, it delivers
mixed berry fruit, peppery spice and overtones of vanilla
and chocolate. Drink now and over the next few
years. Sabemos Beverages. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 14.5% Price: $20
91
Shingleback 2009 Shiraz (McLaren Vale).
The 2009 Shirazes from South Australia have
been grading out well, and Shingleback’s is no exception,
representing an excellent value. It’s dense and jammy,
with rich black cherry fruit framed by oaky notes of
baking spices and cocoa. This intense, extracted wine
can stand up to hearty braises or stews. Precept Wines.
Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 14.5% Price: $20
91
Sidewood 2008 Reserve Syrah (Adelaide
Hills). Interestingly, Sidewood’s 2008 Reserve
Shiraz comes in considerably lower in alcohol than the
regular bottling. It features a complex interplay of herb,
spice and olive that gives it a stylistic resemblance resemblance
to northern Rhône Syrahs. The tannins are
silky, the finish long and balanced. Drink now–2018.
USA Wine West. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 13% Price: $24
91
Wolf Blass 2008 Gold Label Shiraz
(Barossa). An excellent value, the 2008 Gold
Label Shiraz is a full-bodied, powerfully built wine,
filled out by cassis, chocolate and tobacco flavors. It’s
long and velvety on the finish, not just an upfront powerhouse.
Drink now–2020. Treasury Wine Estates. Editors’
Choice. —J.C.
abv: 15% Price: $25
90
John Duval Wines 2009 Entity Shiraz
(Barossa). Expansive, round and supple in the
mouth, this Shiraz features lush raspberry fruit, framed
by vanilla oak. There’s a tart edge to the finish, providing
a solid sense of balance to the lingering warm, chocolaty
notes. Drink now. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C.
abv: 14.5% Price: $40
90
Mitolo 2009 Jester Shiraz (McLaren
Vale). Cedar, chocolate and cherry are the
main players, with hints of alfalfa adding a modicum of
complexity. It’s full bodied, round and warm, with tannins
that seem firmer than many in this price category,
making it a good steakhouse red. Drink it now and over
the next several years. Vintus LLC. —J.C.
abv: 14.9% Price: $21
90
Oliverhill 2009 Red Silk Shiraz (McLaren
Vale). This Shiraz does a nice job of balancing
its fruit-sweet characters of blackberry and blueberry
with savory elements of herbs and green olives. It’s fullbodied,
warm and creamy-textured, with a warm, chocolaty
finish. Drink it now and over the next few years.
Southern Starz, Inc. —J.C.
abv: 14% Price: $20
90
Ross Estate 2009 Lights Out Shiraz
(Barossa Valley). Sure, this wine is full bodied
and lush, filled with ripe raspberry fruit, but there
is also a sense of underlying structure, and some lovely
herb-spice complexities, like rhubarb, cedar, cinnamon,
vanilla and cracked pepper. Drink it over the next 2–3
years. Southern Starz, Inc. —J.C.
abv: 14.5% Price: $20
90
Sidewood 2008 Syrah (Adelaide Hills). A
concentrated, intense wine, filled with cherryberry
fruit and more than a hint of vanilla. It’s tart and
edgy, with some firm tannins on the finish, so hold it
another 12 months and then drink it over the next 5–6
years. USA Wine West. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 14.5% Price: $18
90
Thorn Clarke 2010 Shotfire Shiraz
(Barossa). An excellent value, the 2010 Shotfire
Shiraz offers bold, punched-up cherry-berry fruit
framed by hints of vanilla, dried herbs and cracked pepper.
It’s a big wine that’s reasonably creamy in texture,
with plenty of mouthcoating flavor on the finish. Drink
it over the next few years. Kysela Père et Fils. Editors’
Choice. —J.C.
abv: 14.5% Price: $22
89
Kilikanoon 2008 M Reserve Shiraz
(McLaren Vale). Kilikanoon’s 2008 M features
bold berry fruit, lashings of vanilla and a bit of eucalyptus
on the nose, followed up by rich blackberry and
vanilla flavors. It’s a full-bodied wine that nevertheless