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BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast

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y. Drink now–2015. The Triton Collection. Editors’<br />

Choice. —L.B.<br />

abv: 12.8% Price: $30<br />

90<br />

A.A. Badenhorst Family <strong>Wine</strong>s 2009<br />

White Blend (Coastal Region). A complex,<br />

kitchen-sink blend of 29% Chenin Blanc, 23% Roussanne,<br />

11% Viognier, 11% Chardonnay, 10% Grenache<br />

Blanc, 5% Colombar, 5% Grenache Gris, 2% Sémillon,<br />

2% Clairette and 1% Verdelho, there’s a lot to be discovered<br />

in this wine. Melon, pear and sweet citrus lead<br />

the bouquet, with nuances of orange blossom and honeysuckle,<br />

while spicy flavors of baked apple, glazed canteloupe<br />

and lightly-mulled pear flood the palate. Round<br />

and forward, with a silky texture; give it time to open up<br />

now or hold another couple of years. Broadbent Selections,<br />

Inc. —L.B.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $42<br />

87<br />

Bradgate 2010 Sauvignon Blanc-Chenin<br />

Blanc (Stellenbosch). A lovely blend of 77%<br />

Sauvignon Blanc and 23% Chenin Blanc, this light and<br />

lively wine is direct and focused, with good briskness<br />

to the green plum, fig and pear notes. A touch of floral<br />

character adds depth to the bouquet, while a lemon rind<br />

bitterness unfolds on the end. World Premiere <strong>Wine</strong>s<br />

LLC. —L.B.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $14<br />

86<br />

Boekenhoutskloof 2010 The Wolftrap<br />

Viognier-Chenin Blanc-Grenache Blanc<br />

(Western Cape). This blend of 67% Viognier, 19%<br />

Chenin Blanc and 14% Grenache Blanc is crisp and<br />

tasty, with forward aromas of pear, hard peach, yellow<br />

florals and a touch of oak-driven spice. Roundly structured,<br />

with a lush texture and a nice, clean herbal characteristic<br />

to the close. Drink now. Vineyard Brands.<br />

Best Buy. —L.B.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $11<br />

MERLOT<br />

90<br />

Ernie Els 2009 Merlot (Stellenbosch). A<br />

dark and rich style of Merlot, this wine boasts<br />

intense aromas and flavors of black forest berries, plum<br />

flesh, cocoa powder and pencil shavings. Succulent,<br />

with a creamy texture, the tannins are fine but mouthcoating<br />

and provide a good frame to the sultry flavors.<br />

Chocolate and cedar spice linger on the close. Terlato<br />

<strong>Wine</strong>s International. —L.B.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $25<br />

87<br />

Glenelly 2009 The Glass Collection Merlot<br />

(Stellenbosch). Jammy black fruit and<br />

berry notes fill the nose and mouth, while a hint of<br />

bramble and milk chocolate add depth and interest.<br />

Medium weight, with dusty but structured tannins, and<br />

a fudgy finish. Cape Classics. —L.B.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $20<br />

87<br />

Ken Forrester 2009 Merlot (Stellenbosch).<br />

Herbal accents grace the black plum<br />

and berry aromas and flavors, and a touch of biltong<br />

spice and meat mingle with the fruit for added character.<br />

Approachable and soft, with delicate tannins and an<br />

easy, friendly finish. Drink now. Cape Classics. —L.B.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $22<br />

86<br />

Helderberg Wijnmakerij 2009 Merlot<br />

(Stellenbosch). Red plum and small berries<br />

lead the nose of this Merlot, with hints of dusty dried<br />

blackberry in the back. The palate offers similar flavors,<br />

with a touch of sweet spice hanging on to the short but<br />

clean finish. Vineyard Brands. —L.B.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $13<br />

PINOTAGE<br />

91<br />

Fairview 2009 Primo Pinotage (Coastal<br />

Region). A stunning Pinotage that shows<br />

great varietal character in its aromas and flavors of black<br />

cherry and currant infused with spicy notes of biltong,<br />

bark, clay, cinnamon and soft tar. The wine is firmly<br />

structured, with gripping tannins and medium acidity,<br />

striking a balance between the astringency of the tannins<br />

and freshness of the fruit. Nuances of baking spice<br />

and fudge linger on the close. Tight now; try after 2015.<br />

Vineyard Brands. —L.B.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $30<br />

90<br />

Spice Route 2009 Pinotage (Swartland).<br />

For full review see page 8.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $23<br />

89<br />

Lions Drift 2009 Silkbush Mountain Vineyards<br />

Pinotage (Breedekloof). Dusty dark<br />

cherry and blackberry fruit dominate the nose, with secondary<br />

aromas of game, peppery spice and tobacco. The<br />

dark fruit character continues on the palate, transitioning<br />

into the finish, which is laced with hints of mocha<br />

and spice. Medium weight, with nice vibrancy in the<br />

mouth. Drink now-2015. South Atlantic <strong>Wine</strong>s. —L.B.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $18<br />

MOURVÈDRE<br />

87<br />

Tormentoso 2009 Mourvèdre (Paarl).<br />

Fleshy black-plum, cherry and blackberry notes<br />

lead this medium-weight wine, with a light dusting of<br />

cocoa powder. Dark but vibrant in the mouth, with a<br />

good amount of pepper and licorice on the finish. Drink<br />

now. Vineyard Brands. —L.B.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $13<br />

RED BLENDS<br />

93<br />

Ernie Els 2007 Signature (Stellenbosch).<br />

The 2007 vintage was generally a great one for<br />

Bordeaux-style reds in Stellenbosch, and the Els Signature<br />

definitely demonstrates it. Sure, it’s ripe and sexy<br />

with a lot of sweet oak characteristics like cocoa powder<br />

and smoky wood, but it’s got the ripe fruit core of black<br />

plum and dark forest berries to back it up. Spicy layers<br />

of leather, cigar box and black tea leaves add complexity<br />

to the palate, while chewy tannins provide a firm structure.<br />

A bit young now, so try after 2015. Terlato <strong>Wine</strong>s<br />

International. —L.B.<br />

abv: 15% Price: $95<br />

92<br />

Meerlust 2007 Rubicon (Stellenbosch).<br />

One of the best vintages of Rubicon to date, and<br />

for the price it’s a fantastic value that’s great for building<br />

up your cellar. Right now, the wine is still young and<br />

tight, with firm, gripping tannins that need some time to<br />

mellow. Fortunately, there’s a great concentrated blackfruit<br />

core and enough acidity alongside the tannins to<br />

support long-term aging. Spicy and earthy, with accents<br />

of black tea, cedar and crushed violets. Try after 2016.<br />

Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. Cellar Selection.<br />

—L.B.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $31<br />

91<br />

Constantia Glen 2008 Five (Constantia).<br />

This stunning Bordeaux-style blend opens with<br />

ripe aromas of black fruits like cherry, currant and plum,<br />

laced with a serious licorice and spice streak that shows<br />

staying power. The seductive mouthfeel boasts a slightly<br />

creamy texture with mouthfilling tannins. The palate is<br />

loaded with mulled boysenberry. Hints of tobacco, mocha<br />

and sweet spice all linger on the long close. Amara<br />

<strong>Wine</strong>s LLC. —L.B.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $38<br />

90<br />

A.A. Badenhorst Family <strong>Wine</strong>s 2010 Secateurs<br />

Red Blend (Coastal Region). A<br />

complex blend of 75% Shiraz, 10% Cinsault, 8% Cab<br />

Sauv, 6% Gren and 1% each of Carignan and Mourvèdre,<br />

this is a concentrated and flavorful selection that’s<br />

brimming with raspberry sauce and dark berry fruit<br />

aromas and flavors. Framed by black tea, sweet spice<br />

and vanilla bean accents, the mouth is firmly structured<br />

with medium tannins and acidity, ending on a soft, roasty<br />

note. Broadbent Selections, Inc. Editors’ Choice.<br />

—L.B.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $17<br />

90<br />

Constantia Glen 2008 Three (Constantia).<br />

A great value, this Merlot-dominant blend,<br />

with splashes of Cab Sauv and Cab Franc exudes ripe<br />

aromas and flavors of rich dark fruit and berries jazzed<br />

up with layers of cigar tobacco, leather, savory herbs and<br />

tree bark. Concentrated and mouthfilling, with a velvety<br />

texture, it’s a well-balanced wine with fine, but persistent<br />

tannins and a lengthy finish. Amara <strong>Wine</strong>s LLC.<br />

—L.B.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $24<br />

90<br />

Mulderbosch 2008 Faithful Hound (Stellenbosch).<br />

Brims with dark fruit notes of<br />

mulled boysenberry, cassis and black cherry, all streaked<br />

with spicy accents of menthol and black tea leaves. The<br />

mouthfeel is slightly creamy, but framed by medium<br />

tannins. Notes of licorice stick, espresso and roasted cocoa<br />

nibs linger through the long close. Drink now–2014.<br />

Cape Classics. —L.B.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $22<br />

89<br />

Edgebaston 2010 The Pepper Pot (Stellenbosch).<br />

An interesting blend of equal<br />

parts Syrah and Mourvèdre wiith 8% Tannat, The Pepper<br />

Pot offers concentrated aromas and flavors of dark<br />

forest berries and fleshy black plums. A hint of leather<br />

and game unfolds on the finish, while medium acidity<br />

keeps the flavors fresh on the palate. Southern Starz,<br />

Inc. —L.B.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $15<br />

88<br />

Ernie Els 2010 Big Easy Red (Western<br />

Cape). A kitchen-sink blend of 60% Shiraz,<br />

20% Cab Sauv, 7% Grenache, 6% Mourvèdre, 4% Cinsault<br />

and 3% Viognier. Aromas of crushed violet pet-<br />

<strong>Wine</strong>Mag.com | 37

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