BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast

89
Cramele Halewood 2009 Kronos Limited
Edition Pinot Noir (Dealu Mare). Delicate
yet beguiling, with aromas of violets, ripe pomegranates
and granite, there’s an Old World elegance that sets this
Romanian Pinot Noir apart. The palate is concentrated,
with crisp red cherry and plum flavors, but keenly balanced
by brisk acidity and soft, finely-grained tannins.
Structured and refined with a medium long finish. Terra
Firma USA Inc. —A.I.
abv: 13.5% Price: $20
88
Cramele Halewood 2009 Hyperion Limited
Edition Cabernet Sauvignon (Dealu
Mare). There’s a striking minerality that adds depth
to varietally characteristic scents of ripe cassis, violets
and cedar. Full bodied and densely concentrated, with
sweet, black-fruit flavor, it’s balanced by brisk acidity
and fresh herb flavors that linger on the finish. Terra
Firma USA Inc. —A.I.
abv: 14% Price: $30
87
Serve 2007 Terra Romana Cuvée Alexandru
Cabernet Sauvignon (Dealu Mare).
Whiffs of wet earth and wood add a rustic, foresty tone
to aromas of preserved black fruit and violets. Big in
both body and tannins, decanting could coax this wine
into revealing more subtleties of fruit and minerals that
may otherwise go unnoticed. Terra Firma USA Inc.
—A.I.
abv: 14.5% Price: $59
85
Serve 2010 Terra Romana Chevalier de
Dyonis Pinot Noir (Dealurile Munteniei).
Charred wood notes on the nose and palate lend a
smoky, slightly herbal tone to dense, richly concentrated
black-cherry flavors. The char subsides substantially
with aeration, revealing a well-composed wine that balances
power with elegance. Terra Firma USA Inc. Best
Buy. —A.I.
abv: 13% Price: $8
84
Cramele Halewood 2009 Vitis Metamorfosis
Merlot (Dealu Mare). Hints of rose
petals are a curious contrast to earthier scents of soil
and beets on this full bodied, slightly chunky Romanian
Merlot. Pleasant for everyday dining; flavors of charred
wood and preserved plum would pair nicely with an assortment
of smoked meats and cheeses. Terra Firma
USA Inc. —A.I.
abv: 14% Price: $15
TURKEY
88
Kayra 2008 Vintage Single Vineyard Collecible
Series #5 Öküzgözü (Elazig).
Clean and bright on the nose, with loads of black plums
and blueberries. This wine, made from Öküzgözü
grapes, is an interesting glimpse into Turkish winemaking.
Dry and medium bodied, with a firm tannic structure
and brisk acidity, it finishes with a hint of milk chocolate
flavor. Could benefit from decanting, but would
be an interesting to age as well. Maritime Wine Trading
Collective. Cellar Selection. —A.I.
abv: 14% Price: $20
86
Kayra 2006 Imperial Red (Elazig). Rustic
on the nose, with scents of dried herbs and grass
that mingle with pretty rose and tea-leaf notes, this wine
is an unusual blend of Turkish Öküzgözü and Bo azkere
grapes with Syrah and Petit Verdot. Full bodied and soft
on the palate, with ripe, red-fruit and mocha-chocolate
flavor, it finishes with a coating of furry tannins. Maritime
Wine Trading Collective. —A.I.
abv: 14% Price: $25
UKRAINE
86
Artemovsk 2010 KrimSekt Matured Rosy
Semi-Dry (Ukraine). Aromatic, with notes
of fresh red raspberries and sweet biscuit crumbs, this
semisweet red sparkler is fun and fruity, but surprisingly
brisk and quaffable. Exuberantly frothy, with a rich,
mouth-filling foam, it finishes with just a whiff of dust
and a sweet, red-berry note. Palmetto State Imports.
—A.I.
abv: 13% Price: $13
85
Artemovsk 2010 KrimSekt Red Matured
Semi-Sweet (Ukraine). Sweet blackberry
and blueberry notes are deeply concentrated on the
nose and palate of this Ukrainian semisweet red sparkler.
Softly pétillant, it’s unabashedly fun and fruity, but
an enjoyable choice for casual entertaining. Palmetto
State Imports. —A.I.
abv: 13% Price: $13
85
Artemovsk 2010 KrimSekt White Matured
Semi-Dry Muscat (Ukraine). Sweetly floral
on the nose and palate, with hints of peach gummy candy,
this off-dry Muscat sparkling might seem a bit confected,
but it’s nicely concentrated, with pure, clean flavors
of peach and apricot nectar. Aggressive on the attack
and finishes briskly. Palmetto State Imports. —A.I.
abv: 13% Price: $13
84
Artemovsk 2008 KrimSekt White Collection
Semi-Dry (Ukraine). Fresh apple notes
on the nose of this off-dry sparkling are pretty, but hindered
by whiffs of dust and green stems. Softly pétillant
with a creamy, mouth-filling froth, it finishes with a
pleasantly sweet note. An unusual blend of Pinot Franc,
Chardonnay, Aligote and Riesling. Palmetto State Imports.
—A.I.
abv: 13% Price: $13
83
Artemovsk 2008 KrimSekt White Collection
Brut (Ukraine). The nose is a tad dusty,
with hints of unripe fruit and leaves, but the palate on
this brut sparkling is clean and lemony, with a sharp,
steely profile. Aggressive on the attack, with a stark,
brisk acidity, it finishes with abundantly mouth-filling
froth. Palmetto State Imports. —A.I.
abv: 13% Price: $13
SOUTH AFRICA
CHENIN BLANC
91
Graham Beck 2009 Bowed Head Chenin
Blanc (Paarl). A ripe and forward style with
upfront notes of pineapple, softly-grilled peach, juicy
melon and a touch of spice. The mouthfeel is round and
rich, but with enough acidic cut to keep the palate fresh
and lively through the long finish. Flavors of sweet or-
ange citrus and ripe green fig linger endlessly. Maritime
Wine Trading Collective. —L.B.
abv: 14% Price: $28
90
Rudera 2009 Robusto Chenin Blanc
(Stellenbosch). Attractively ripe aromas
of melon and softly baked apples lead the nose, with
a touch of sweet smokiness, almost like cured bacon,
following close behind. Medium weight with balanced,
lifting acidity and a spice-infused clementine rind finish.
DRG Imports. —L.B.
abv: 14% Price: $21
89
Rudera 2009 De Tradisie Chenin Blanc
(Stellenbosch). This Chenin seems to have
an older soul than its peers, with mature notes of honeyed
almond and sweet spice that infiltrate the Anjou
pear and hard peach flavors. Citrus pith adds a touch of
bitterness to the otherwise toasty, sweet spice-infused
finish. DRG Imports. —L.B.
abv: 14% Price: $19
89
Spice Route 2009 Chenin Blanc (Swartland).
A brilliant gold color, this Chenin boasts
wood-infused fruit notes of pear, peach pit and melon
alongside accents of honeysuckle and toasted brioche.
The round, slightly slick mouthfeel is elevated with a
mouthwatering acidic cut to the close. Vineyard Brands.
—L.B.
abv: 14% Price: $15
SAUVIGNON BLANC
90
Lomond 2010 Pincushion Vineyard Sauvignon
Blanc (Cape Agulhas). A delicious
Sauv Blanc from one of the coolest areas of South Africa,
it takes a while for this wine to fully express itself.
Green pepper and grass start on the nose, but then
subside to allow green fig, lime rind and tart tropical
fruit accents to unfold. Balanced and refreshing, with
a fynbos herb note that remains through the long finish,
almost like fresh hops. Stanfield & Stuart Wine Co.
—L.B.
abv: 13.5% Price: $25
89
Morgenhof 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Simonsberg-Stellenbosch).
Lemon verbena
and green grass aromas waft from the glass, with secondary
notes of grapefruit and stone fruit to round it
out. Vibrant acidity brightens this medium-weight
mouth, with a touch of green plum-skin flavor and soft
bitterness remaining through the lively finish. Terry
Seitz. —L.B.
abv: 13.5% Price: $19
88
Constantia Glen 2010 Sauvignon Blanc
(Constantia). There’s a ripe orange-oil streak
in the background of the bouquet, boosting rich aromas
of tropical fruit and hay. The texture is full but framed
by cleansing acidity and a tart, slightly pithy accent on
the close. Amara Wines LLC. —L.B.
abv: 13.5% Price: $15
88
Southern Right 2010 Sauvignon Blanc
(Walker Bay). Hay, green plum and gooseberry
lead off on the nose, while ripe hints of passion
fruit and pineapple acidity flood the mouth. Lifted, with
good cut and freshness, and a mouthwatering close. De-
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