BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast

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ancio. Long as they come on the finish, with zero excess weight. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 18% Price: $42 91 Pedro Romero NV Prestige 50 Palo Cortado Viejísimo Sherry. Nutty as they come, with a dose of honey on the bouquet. Tastes extremely nice and powerful, with cleansing acids and complex flavors of salted peanuts, almond, baked peaches and toffee. Layered in terms of feel and delivery, with a nutty, crisp finish. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 18% Price: $125/500 ml 90 Alvear NV Solera Cream Pedro Ximénez (Montilla-Moriles). Toasty and sweet on the nose, however it’s not very complex. Feels juicy and refined, with raisin, fig and date flavors. Long on the finish and chocolaty tasting, with raisin and a lightness of being. Sweet within the style, but not unctuous or candied. Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. abv: 18% Price: $29/500 ml 90 Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV Amontillado Sherry. For affordable amontillado, this is downright excellent. Smells nutty and oily, maybe a touch sharp, but well within normal parameters. Feels fresh, round and comfortable, with lots of core fruit flavor, nuttiness, sweet toffee and caramel. Finishes with toasted pecan flavors and peanut butter notes. Semidry in style. CIV/USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 18% Price: $15 90 Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV Oloroso Sherry. For full review see page 10. Best Buy. abv: 18% Price: $15 90 Hidalgo NV Villapanés Oloroso Seco Sherry. True as dry oloroso comes, with nutty aromas combined with caramel richness. Feels raring to go, with pumped-up acidity that boosts otherwise normal flavors of dried white fruits, mixed nuts and brine. Tight, long and driving on the finish. Winebow. —M.S. abv: NA Price: $42 89 Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV Cream Sherry. Sweet smelling, but welcoming and true to the cream style. Feels creamy and soft by Sherry standards, with prune, raisin, caramel, toffee and chocolate flavors. Turns a touch bitter on the finish, with a final dose of raisin, honey and toffee. CIV/USA. —M.S. abv: 18% Price: $15 88 Pedro Romero NV Prestige 50 Oloroso Viejísimo Sherry. A fiery, demanding, extremely power-packed Sherry, with toffee, orange zest, pecan pie and apricot aromas. Feels tight and high in acidity, with dry, salty flavors of walnut oil and pecans. Layered and drying on the finish, with power to spare. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 18% Price: $75/500 ml 87 Pedro Romero NV Prestige 50 Amontillado Viejísimo Sherry. A nutty and acidic wine, with aromas of pressed walnuts and toffee. Feels tight, sharp and narrow on the tongue, with blazing acidity and dry, limited, salty flavors that fold in toffee and sour fruit notes. Exceedingly salty on the finish; smells great 34 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2011 but feels and tastes astringent for such an expensive bottling. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 18% Price: $100/500 ml 86 Alvear NV Amontillado Pedro Ximénez (Montilla-Moriles). Sweet toffee, butter pecan and apricot aromas are the lead-in. This wine has a light body, decent acidity and mild flavors of burnt banana, spice and almond paste. Nutty yet basic on the finish, with a hint of mushroom. Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. abv: 17% Price: $15 86 Alvear NV Cream Pedro Ximénez (Montilla-Moriles). Quiet on the nose, but by no means does it smell poor. Feels chunky, with raisin, prune, brown sugar and baked fruit flavors. Flabby but flavorful late, with a finish that tastes like caramel and chocolate powder. Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. abv: 18% Price: $15 OTHER OLD WORLD CROATIA 89 Saints Hills 2009 Dinga Plavac Mali (Peljesac). There’s so much nuance and complexity in this rustic yet fascinating Croatian wine, that it takes a while to break down its components. Initial scents of dried leaves and mulch blow off to reveal an array of delicate floral and fruit aromas, accented by rich chocolate and vanilla notes. Big in both alcohol and structure, its massively tannic, but smoothes out with aeration. Decant to drink now, but could easily evolve for 5–10 years. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Cellar Selection. —A.I. abv: 15.9% Price: $65 HUNGARY 94 Royal Tokaji 2003 Essencia (Tokaji). Surprisingly subtle, yet maddeningly complex, this is a rare treat to unravel slowly, sip by sip. Sweet and honeyed on the nose with scents of freesia, orange peel and stone fruit, but accented with just a hint of sundried hay. The palate is deeply concentrated with undulating waves of honey, beeswax and fruit, but balanced with striking tangerine acidity. Remarkably long on the finish. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —A.I. abv: 2.2% Price: $764/375 ml 92 Royal Tokaji 2007 Red Label Aszú 5 Puttonyos (Tokaji). For full review see page 6. abv: 11.5% Price: $43/500 ml 91 Royal Tokaji 2009 Mád Cuvée Late Harvest (Tokaji). For full review see page 7. Editor’s Choice. abv: 9.5% Price: $20/375 ml MOLDOVA 85 Exclusiv NV Rose Spumos Moscato (Moldova). Grapy and floral with loads of rose petal notes, this Moscato is perfumey on the nose and palate. Exuberantly frothy and mouth-filling, the palate is fleshy with sweet ripe grapes, with just a hint of stems and leaves on the finish. Serge Import LLC. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 10% Price: $10 ROMANIAN WHITES 88 Cramele Halewood 2010 Theia Limited Edition Chardonnay (Sebes). Pristine on the nose and palate, this dry, full-bodied Chardonnay is a prime example of how thoroughly modern Romanian winemaking can be. Juicy and floral with pretty hints of apple blossoms, it’s creamy and rich in texture, yet impeccably refreshing on the finish. Terra Firma USA Inc. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $20 85 Cramele Recas 2010 Heavenly Retreat Semi-sweet Riesling (Recas). White floral aromas are pure and fresh in this apple-inflected Romanian Riesling. Soft on the palate, with restrained acidity and a delicate, almost lacy structure, it finishes with a hint of powdered sugar sweetness. Terra Firma USA Inc. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $9 84 Cramele Halewood 2009 Single Vineyard Selection Scurta Vineyard Viognier-Tamaioasa Romaneasca (Dealurile Munteniei). Exuberantly fragrant of ripe, tropical fruit and florals, this Romanian white blend veers towards confected, but it’s pleasantly brisk and apple-y on the palate. A good apéritif for casual, weekday enjoyment. Terra Firma USA Inc. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 84 Serve 2010 Terra Romana Chardonnay (Dealu Mare). Darkly toasted oak lends a veil of smoke and char to apple and lemon flavors in this dry, full-bodied Chardonnay. There are hints of stems and leaves on the midpalate, but overall, it’s a well-composed wine with balanced acidity and alcohol. Terra Firma USA Inc. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $10 84 Serve 2010 Terra Romana Sauvignon Blanc-Feteasca Alba (Dealu Mare). Appley on the nose and palate, with just a hint of dust and green leaves, this blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Feteasca Alba is refreshing, with striking acidity. Dry and medium bodied in style. Terra Firma USA Inc. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: NA Price: $9 ROMANIAN REDS 89 Cramele Halewood 2009 Hyperion Limited Edition Feteasca Neagra (Dealu Mare). While sweet on the nose with aromas of blueberry preserves and fruitcake, the palate on this dry Romanian red is refreshingly restrained, with a fresh herbal tone that accents its ample fruit flavors. A fascinating study of the Feteasca Neagra grape, there’s a surprising amount of elegance that peeks through its initial rusticity. Terra Firma USA Inc. —A.I. abv: 14% Price: $47
89 Cramele Halewood 2009 Kronos Limited Edition Pinot Noir (Dealu Mare). Delicate yet beguiling, with aromas of violets, ripe pomegranates and granite, there’s an Old World elegance that sets this Romanian Pinot Noir apart. The palate is concentrated, with crisp red cherry and plum flavors, but keenly balanced by brisk acidity and soft, finely-grained tannins. Structured and refined with a medium long finish. Terra Firma USA Inc. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 88 Cramele Halewood 2009 Hyperion Limited Edition Cabernet Sauvignon (Dealu Mare). There’s a striking minerality that adds depth to varietally characteristic scents of ripe cassis, violets and cedar. Full bodied and densely concentrated, with sweet, black-fruit flavor, it’s balanced by brisk acidity and fresh herb flavors that linger on the finish. Terra Firma USA Inc. —A.I. abv: 14% Price: $30 87 Serve 2007 Terra Romana Cuvée Alexandru Cabernet Sauvignon (Dealu Mare). Whiffs of wet earth and wood add a rustic, foresty tone to aromas of preserved black fruit and violets. Big in both body and tannins, decanting could coax this wine into revealing more subtleties of fruit and minerals that may otherwise go unnoticed. Terra Firma USA Inc. —A.I. abv: 14.5% Price: $59 85 Serve 2010 Terra Romana Chevalier de Dyonis Pinot Noir (Dealurile Munteniei). Charred wood notes on the nose and palate lend a smoky, slightly herbal tone to dense, richly concentrated black-cherry flavors. The char subsides substantially with aeration, revealing a well-composed wine that balances power with elegance. Terra Firma USA Inc. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $8 84 Cramele Halewood 2009 Vitis Metamorfosis Merlot (Dealu Mare). Hints of rose petals are a curious contrast to earthier scents of soil and beets on this full bodied, slightly chunky Romanian Merlot. Pleasant for everyday dining; flavors of charred wood and preserved plum would pair nicely with an assortment of smoked meats and cheeses. Terra Firma USA Inc. —A.I. abv: 14% Price: $15 TURKEY 88 Kayra 2008 Vintage Single Vineyard Collecible Series #5 Öküzgözü (Elazig). Clean and bright on the nose, with loads of black plums and blueberries. This wine, made from Öküzgözü grapes, is an interesting glimpse into Turkish winemaking. Dry and medium bodied, with a firm tannic structure and brisk acidity, it finishes with a hint of milk chocolate flavor. Could benefit from decanting, but would be an interesting to age as well. Maritime Wine Trading Collective. Cellar Selection. —A.I. abv: 14% Price: $20 86 Kayra 2006 Imperial Red (Elazig). Rustic on the nose, with scents of dried herbs and grass that mingle with pretty rose and tea-leaf notes, this wine is an unusual blend of Turkish Öküzgözü and Bo azkere grapes with Syrah and Petit Verdot. Full bodied and soft on the palate, with ripe, red-fruit and mocha-chocolate flavor, it finishes with a coating of furry tannins. Maritime Wine Trading Collective. —A.I. abv: 14% Price: $25 UKRAINE 86 Artemovsk 2010 KrimSekt Matured Rosy Semi-Dry (Ukraine). Aromatic, with notes of fresh red raspberries and sweet biscuit crumbs, this semisweet red sparkler is fun and fruity, but surprisingly brisk and quaffable. Exuberantly frothy, with a rich, mouth-filling foam, it finishes with just a whiff of dust and a sweet, red-berry note. Palmetto State Imports. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $13 85 Artemovsk 2010 KrimSekt Red Matured Semi-Sweet (Ukraine). Sweet blackberry and blueberry notes are deeply concentrated on the nose and palate of this Ukrainian semisweet red sparkler. Softly pétillant, it’s unabashedly fun and fruity, but an enjoyable choice for casual entertaining. Palmetto State Imports. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $13 85 Artemovsk 2010 KrimSekt White Matured Semi-Dry Muscat (Ukraine). Sweetly floral on the nose and palate, with hints of peach gummy candy, this off-dry Muscat sparkling might seem a bit confected, but it’s nicely concentrated, with pure, clean flavors of peach and apricot nectar. Aggressive on the attack and finishes briskly. Palmetto State Imports. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $13 84 Artemovsk 2008 KrimSekt White Collection Semi-Dry (Ukraine). Fresh apple notes on the nose of this off-dry sparkling are pretty, but hindered by whiffs of dust and green stems. Softly pétillant with a creamy, mouth-filling froth, it finishes with a pleasantly sweet note. An unusual blend of Pinot Franc, Chardonnay, Aligote and Riesling. Palmetto State Imports. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $13 83 Artemovsk 2008 KrimSekt White Collection Brut (Ukraine). The nose is a tad dusty, with hints of unripe fruit and leaves, but the palate on this brut sparkling is clean and lemony, with a sharp, steely profile. Aggressive on the attack, with a stark, brisk acidity, it finishes with abundantly mouth-filling froth. Palmetto State Imports. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $13 SOUTH AFRICA CHENIN BLANC 91 Graham Beck 2009 Bowed Head Chenin Blanc (Paarl). A ripe and forward style with upfront notes of pineapple, softly-grilled peach, juicy melon and a touch of spice. The mouthfeel is round and rich, but with enough acidic cut to keep the palate fresh and lively through the long finish. Flavors of sweet orange citrus and ripe green fig linger endlessly. Maritime Wine Trading Collective. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $28 90 Rudera 2009 Robusto Chenin Blanc (Stellenbosch). Attractively ripe aromas of melon and softly baked apples lead the nose, with a touch of sweet smokiness, almost like cured bacon, following close behind. Medium weight with balanced, lifting acidity and a spice-infused clementine rind finish. DRG Imports. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $21 89 Rudera 2009 De Tradisie Chenin Blanc (Stellenbosch). This Chenin seems to have an older soul than its peers, with mature notes of honeyed almond and sweet spice that infiltrate the Anjou pear and hard peach flavors. Citrus pith adds a touch of bitterness to the otherwise toasty, sweet spice-infused finish. DRG Imports. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $19 89 Spice Route 2009 Chenin Blanc (Swartland). A brilliant gold color, this Chenin boasts wood-infused fruit notes of pear, peach pit and melon alongside accents of honeysuckle and toasted brioche. The round, slightly slick mouthfeel is elevated with a mouthwatering acidic cut to the close. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $15 SAUVIGNON BLANC 90 Lomond 2010 Pincushion Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Cape Agulhas). A delicious Sauv Blanc from one of the coolest areas of South Africa, it takes a while for this wine to fully express itself. Green pepper and grass start on the nose, but then subside to allow green fig, lime rind and tart tropical fruit accents to unfold. Balanced and refreshing, with a fynbos herb note that remains through the long finish, almost like fresh hops. Stanfield & Stuart Wine Co. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 89 Morgenhof 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Simonsberg-Stellenbosch). Lemon verbena and green grass aromas waft from the glass, with secondary notes of grapefruit and stone fruit to round it out. Vibrant acidity brightens this medium-weight mouth, with a touch of green plum-skin flavor and soft bitterness remaining through the lively finish. Terry Seitz. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $19 88 Constantia Glen 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Constantia). There’s a ripe orange-oil streak in the background of the bouquet, boosting rich aromas of tropical fruit and hay. The texture is full but framed by cleansing acidity and a tart, slightly pithy accent on the close. Amara Wines LLC. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 88 Southern Right 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Walker Bay). Hay, green plum and gooseberry lead off on the nose, while ripe hints of passion fruit and pineapple acidity flood the mouth. Lifted, with good cut and freshness, and a mouthwatering close. De- WineMag.com | 35
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Page 3 and 4: The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide Th
Page 5 and 6: 93 Marimar Estate 2008 Stony Block
Page 7 and 8: 91 Coghlan 2009 Tourmaline Grenache
Page 9 and 10: 89 Darcie Kent Vineyards 2008 Madde
Page 11 and 12: 88 BEST BUYS Releaf 2010 Made With
Page 13 and 14: at the back will undoubtedly increa
Page 15 and 16: Donna Olga 2007 Le Cacce in Villa 9
Page 17 and 18: 90 Lazzeretti 2007 Brunello di Mont
Page 19 and 20: long-lasting. This is a beautiful w
Page 21 and 22: It’s tannic, firm and ready for a
Page 23 and 24: ROSSO DI MONTALCINO 91 Capanne Ricc
Page 25 and 26: 85 La Torre 2010 Rosso di Montalcin
Page 27 and 28: 86 Collemassari 2010 Gròttolo Ros
Page 29 and 30: and lemon soda. There’s a sharp,
Page 31 and 32: texture, it revels in its fresh red
Page 33: Devo Enterprises Corporation. Edito
Page 37 and 38: y. Drink now-2015. The Triton Colle
Page 39 and 40: in a zesty, mouthwatering finish. D
Page 41 and 42: turns crisp and edgy on the finish.
Page 43 and 44: as more standard cassis and berry a
Page 45 and 46: y and lightly oaky, minty flavors.
Page 47 and 48: 90 Sarah’s Vineyard 2010 Chardonn
Page 49 and 50: 91 Coghlan 2009 Tourmaline Grenache
Page 51 and 52: and oak flavors. It’s one of thos
Page 53 and 54: 87 Francis Ford Coppola 2009 Direct
Page 55 and 56: lovely, but should develop over the
Page 57 and 58: in blackberry and cherry fruit and
Page 59 and 60: 86 Lava Cap 2009 Estate Barbera (El
Page 61 and 62: tain fruit. Ripe plums and cherries
Page 63 and 64: SPIRITS REMEMBER THE REPOSADO drink
Page 65: BEER STOCKING UP FOR SUMMER With su

BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast

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