BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast

Devo Enterprises Corporation. Editors’ Choice.
—M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $21
88
Bodegas Valdemar 2006 Conde de Valdemar
Reserva (Rioja). Opens with grainy,
whispy aromas of reedy raspberry and smoky blackberry.
Feels tannic and aggressive, so it punches ahead with
lively, firm flavors of raspberry, plum and strawberry.
Finishes oaky, with vanilla and dill notes. Bold Rioja to
drink now. CIV/USA. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $20
88
Señorio de Uñuela 2008 Crianza (Rioja).
Chunky aromas of sweet berry and beets announce
a ripe style of Rioja. The mouthfeel is medium
to full and healthy, with focused flavors of berry, oak and
peppery spice. Long and a little fiery on the finish. Devo
Enterprises Corporation. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $14
88
Viña Hermosa 2007 Crianza (Rioja).
Earthy and subtle on the nose, with mellow
leafy notes, spice and fresh red-fruit aromas. Feels lively
and layered, with integrated flavors of berry fruit, oak
and mocha. Creamy and long on the finish, with just
enough acidity to maintain length and feel. HGC Imports.
—M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $15
87
Bodegas Zugober 2008 Belezos Crianza
(Rioja). Lightly spiced up front, with dry wood
aromas, light cherry and floral hints. Feels juicy and
tight, with basic red-plum flavors that transition quickly
to spice and acidic crispness on a short finish. Casa Ventura
Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13% Price: $18
87
Carlos Serres 2007 Crianza (Rioja). Light,
minerally and showing red fruit and cocoa notes
on the bouquet. Offers depth and density in support of
sweet, malty, chocolaty berry flavors. Creamy, oaky and
chocolaty on the finish. Uncomplicated and easy to like.
Testa Wines Of The World. —M.S.
abv: 13% Price: $13
87
Marqués de Cáceres 2008 Crianza (Rioja).
Standard cherry and plum aromas are fresh,
clean and unadulterated by heavy oak, leather or earth
notes. Feels clean and dry, with nice but standard redberry
and plum flavors. Has good flow and feel, with
a light dusting of spice on the finish. Vineyard Brands.
—M.S.
abv: 13% Price: $15
87
Pujanza 2007 Rioja. Dark and bold, with
leafy, slightly mulchy aromas that settle on
earthy and mossy. Feels round and full, with weight,
along with flavors of cola, blackberry and plum. Toasty,
dark and tasting like coffee on the finish. Grapes of
Spain. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $30
87
Rio Madre 2010 Graciano (Rioja). Dark in
color, with plum, berry and medicinal aromas.
Round, full and in good shape, with dark plum, blackberry
and a lot of oak for a $10 wine. Finishes creamy
and big, with a spicy aftertaste. Plump and solid for
value-priced Graciano. Fine Estates From Spain. Best
Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $10
86
Bodegas Breton 2008 Loriñon Crianza
(Rioja). Floral and lightly earthy on the nose,
with a touch of latex. Feels fresh and pure, with fine
acidity pressing bright flavors of red cherry and raspberry.
Gets toastier and darker on the finish, ending with
spice and clarity. Classical Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13% Price: $13
86
Carlos Serres 2008 Old Vines Tempranillo
(Rioja). Rooty and mildly sweet on the nose,
then tight and zesty in the mouth, with crisp red-fruit
flavors and citrusy snap. Feels entirely lean and crisp,
even a bit tangy. But sometimes fresh, basic Rioja has
its place. Testa Wines Of The World. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13% Price: $11
86
Raiza 2010 Altos de Raiza (Rioja). Fresh
raspberry and plum aromas offer an inviting
opening that’s simple, easy and clean. That’s pretty
much the wine in a nutshell: it’s bright and fresh, with
lightly spiced red-berry and plum flavors. Focused and
uncomplicated. Vicente Gandia PLA. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $8
86
Rioja Vega 2006 Reserva (Rioja). Charred
and burnt-smelling, and those aromas are overpowering
although not necessarily bad. Feels big and
tannic, with bite to go with dark flavors of bitter coffee,
roasted black plum and wild berry. The charred, burnt
character that controls the bouquet returns with a fury
on the finish. European Heritage Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $38
86
Viña Eguía 2008 Crianza (Rioja). Coconut,
vanilla and dill aromas sit on top of solid berry
scents to form a classic Rioja bouquet. Feels fresh and
agile, with acidity that allows the wine to dance around
on the palate. Tastes of red plum, raspberry, mint and
spice. Seems oaky on the finish, but lively. Quintessential
Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $15
85
Gran Familia 2008 Rioja. Sweet oak and
mint aromas vie with berry fruit on the bouquet.
Feels chunky, round and full, with sweet plum, ripe berry,
lactic and mint notes. Falls off on the finish, which is
sweet but simple. Well-Oiled Wine Company. —M.S.
abv: 12.5% Price: $13
85
Viña Palaciega 2006 Reserva (Rioja).
Starts with aromas of black cherry and kirsch,
but turns stalky and stemmy fairly quickly. Feels crisp
and a bit hard for a reserva, with herbal, zesty flavors of
roasted red berry. Falls off on the finish, but maintains
good quality. Tri-Vin Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13% Price: $15
84
Bodegas Martinez Corta 2010 Cepas Antiguas
(Rioja). Prickly smelling, with pointed
red-fruit aromas. Feels snappy and high in acid, with
quick, zippy flavors of tangy red plum and red currant.
Not too much flavor or feel on the quick, crisp finish.
Classical Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $12
84
Castillo Labastida 2008 Madurado (Rioja).
Gaseous smelling at first, then the nose
transitions to rubbery plum and blackberry. Feels zesty
and spunky, with tangy raspberry, pie cherry and tomato
flavors. Feels racy and juicy, with a tomato-like flavor on
the finish. Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $11
84
Criadores de Rioja 2008 Castillo de
Clavijo Crianza (Rioja). Smells a bit cheesy
and leathery, with mint and slightly chemical berry aromas.
Chewy in feel, with buttery flavors of red berry and
chocolate. Tastes oaky, minty and forced, but overall it’s
not a bad wine given the price and subpar vintage. Saranty
Imports. —M.S.
abv: 12.5% Price: $13
84
Marques de Tomares 2007 Reserva (Rioja).
Baked, saucy aromas suggest the wine’s
overall character. It’s ripe and stewy, with a grippy palate
and a flavor profile full of tomato, herbs and red plum.
Tastes herbal and roasted on the finish; aggressive, savory
Rioja. Parador Selections, LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13% Price: $40
84
Rivarey 2008 Tempranillo (Rioja). Dusty,
dry and lightly spiced aromas frame stalky red
fruit scents. Feels chunky and clampy, with rooty berry
sweetness and rubbery bitterness on the back palate
and finish. Good, but tough around the edges. Vineyard
Brands. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13% Price: $8
83
Cortijo 2010 Cortijo III Tempranillo-Garnacha
(Rioja). Smells flat and sweet, with a
plastic-like essence. Zesty in feel but angular, with tangy
acids and candied red-fruit flavors along with a pinch of
dry spice. Tastes oaky on the finish. Tempranillo with
20% Garnacha. Ole Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $10
82
Viña Ijalba 2007 Graciano (Rioja). Rooty
aromas come with a caustic side, something akin
to Pine Sol or ammonia. Feels narrow and restricted,
with limited berry flavors, juniper and other weird elements.
An intense wine, but not in the right way. Baron
Francois Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 13% Price: $20
SHERRY
91
Gonzalez Byass NV Apostoles Palo Cortado
Viejo Sherry. A unique and individual
style of Sherry, even among palo cortados. It’s dark amber
in color, with a pungent mix of aromas that include
molasses, raw brown sugar, chocolate and campfire.
Feels fresh on the tongue, with coffee, dark chocolate
and core peach and citrus flavors. San Francisco Wine
Exchange. —M.S.
abv: 20% Price: $49/375 ml
91
Hidalgo NV Marqués de Rodil Palo Cortado
Sherry. Light in color, with pecan pie
aromas. There’s nothing heavy or blowsy about this refined
palo cortado; it’s tight in the mouth, with narrowing
acidity and tangy, oily flavors of citrus, almond and
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