BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast

For a 2010 this is still fresh and sturdy, with cleansing
acidity and focused flavors of citrus and red berry fruit.
Eminently drinkable, with a long finish for basic rosé.
Drink immediately. Testa Wines Of The World. Best
Buy. —M.S.
abv: 12.5% Price: $10
85
J. Garcia Carrion 2010 Opera Prima
Sweet Pink Rosé (La Mancha). For full review
see page 11. Best Buy.
abv: 10.5% Price: $8
84
Marqués de Riscal 2010 Rosé (Rioja).
Neutral on the nose, with peachy sweetness and
softness that suggests it’s beginning to fade. Feels honest
but light, with pithy, neutral melon and red apple
flavors. Dry but sort of bland; still upright. Drink right
away. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —M.S.
abv: 13% Price: $10
84
Señorio de Uñuela 2010 Rosado Tempranillo
(Rioja). Labors from the start via soft,
punchless aromas of generic red fruit. Feels a little flabby,
with dry, basic flavors of red apple and cantaloupe.
Turns pithy and slightly bitter on the finish. Drink now.
Devo Enterprises Corporation. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $10
83
Tapeña 2010 Rosé (Vino de la Tierra de
Castilla). Neutral, dusty and a bit damp-smelling,
with a leanness to the palate feel as well as flavors
of semitart melon and peach. Decent but fails to excite.
Drink now. Freixenet USA. —M.S.
abv: 12.5% Price: $10
PRIORAT
92
Gratallops 2006 Partida Bellvisos (Priorat).
Raspberry, cranberry, schist and wild
brush aromas are about as correct for Priorat as you’ll
find. In the mouth, this wine from Sara Pérez and René
Barbier Jr. is lively, racy and pure, with red berry, vanilla,
coconut and tobacco flavors. Finishes long and elegant.
Drink through 2016; 166 cases made. Domaine
Select Wine Estates. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $130
91
Marco Abella 2006 Clos Abella (Priorat).
Hard and crusty on first impression, with
smoky, leathery, meaty aromas along with hints of wild
herbs and dark berry fruit. Feels racy and ultraslick,
with cherry, plum and mineral flavors. Hits all the right
notes while not pushing any buttons too hard or too often;
long on the finish. Drink now through 2014. Vinea
Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $68
90
Scala Dei 2006 Cartoixa (Priorat). This
perennially consistent Priorato deals graphite,
coconut, leather, forest and oaky, chocolaty berry aromas
in front of a round, mouthfilling palate. Tastes primarily
of plum, cherry and currant, with a snappy finish
defined by red fruit flavors and length. Perfectly good
and ready; can hold through 2014. Aveniù Brands, Inc.
—M.S.
abv: 15% Price: $52
32 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012
89
Cellers Unió 2006 Roureda Llicorella
Gran Selecció Vitis 60 (Priorat). Aromas of
pencil shavings, marzipan and jammy berry are sweet
and slightly candied. Flavors of Bing cherry, raisin, licorice
and citrus peel are forward and tight, while the finish
is long and flavorful, with some acidic tang. Lively
despite a mild raisiny quality. Drink now through 2013.
Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $30
RIBERA DEL DUERO
93
Emilio Moro 2008 Malleolus de Sanchomartin
(Ribera del Duero). Richer
and more grapey than the Valdorramiro 2008, but also
friendlier, deeper and more complete. Aromas of blackberry,
vanilla and sweet spices lead to a structured,
weighty palate full of spicy, oak-driven berry and plum
flavors. Clove notes and length define the finish. Drink
from 2014–2019 Fine Estates From Spain. Cellar Selection.
—M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $183
92
Bodegas La Horra 2009 Corimbo I (Ribera
del Duero). Dark as night, with charcoal,
campfire, sweet berry and jammy notes to the alluring
bouquet. Lively on the palate, with tangy acidity propelling
black fruit, sweet oak, licorice and spice flavors.
Solid, well built and generally smooth. Excellent Ribera
from a very good year. Drink through 2019. Kobrand.
—M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $63
92
Emilio Moro 2008 Malleolus de Valderramiro
(Ribera del Duero). Serious wine for
serious Ribera lovers, even if it’s from a generally weak
vintage. Smells of bacon grease, graphite and dark berry
fruits. Feels tight and youthfully tannic, with hickory,
smoked meat, clove, toast and blackberry flavors.
Clove and spice rest heavily on the woody finish; needs
time to evolve and absorb its oak treatment. Best from
2013–2018. Fine Estates From Spain. Cellar Selection.
—M.S.
abv: NA Price: $212
91
Martín Berdugo 2008 Crianza (Ribera del
Duero). After it oozes rubber and bacon on the
nose, berry fruit and mild medicinal aromas settle in.
Feels full, tight and structured, with meat, black cherry
and wild berry flavors. Finishes warm, chocolaty and
lightly roasted. Well-made, and impressive for the price.
Puerto Viejo Wines. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $20
90
Convento Oreja 2009 Crianza (Ribera del
Duero). Full, lusty and slightly floral smelling,
with notes of leather, crusty berry and hoisin sauce.
Feels thick, with body and weight along with flavors of
berry, cookie dough and floral hints. Long, meaty and
slightly herbal on the finish, with just enough complexity
to nudge it ahead. Drink now through 2015. Kysela
Père et Fils. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $34
90
Emilio Moro 2008 Malleolus (Ribera del
Duero). Good berry aromas form a nice opening,
and there are solid spice and herbal notes to boot.
Feels juicy, well-cut and tighter than in years past, with
blackberry, tea, spice and cured meat flavors. Oaky on
the back side, but complex and showing potential. Hold
through 2013, then drink. Fine Estates From Spain.
—M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $73
90
Finca La Mata 2009 Ribera del Duero. For
full review see page 7.
abv: 14% Price: $22
90
Prado Rey 2009 Elite Vendimia Seleccionada
(Ribera del Duero). Complex, integrated
and solid up front, with berry aromas, vanilla notes
and toasty oak. Feels full, thick, staunch and balanced,
with deep berry and cherry flavors leading to a toasty,
peppery finish with leftover berry flavors. Well formed
and well oaked, with excellent fruit quality. Drink now
through 2014. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $30
89
Alonso del Yerro 2008 María (Ribera del
Duero). A meaty, bulky, earthy style of Ribera
with smoky, charred, new-oak aromas setting up
a reduced-seeming palate with roasted, sweet flavors of
black fruits and cured meats. Feels rich, sticky and candied
on the finish. Needs a couple of years to knit together;
may improve with bottle age. Fine Estates From
Spain. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $102
89
Viña Vilano 2009 Crianza (Ribera del
Duero). Blackberry aromas blend with opengrained
oak to create a slightly charred bouquet. A bit
acidic and edgy in feel, with a mix of herb, plum and
berry flavors. Tight, juicy and a touch short on the finish,
with dry, peppery spice notes. Drink now through 2014.
European Wine Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $20
88
Dominio de Atauta 2009 Parada de Atauta
(Ribera del Duero). Concentrated aromas
of berry fruits, spice and black currant jelly suggest that
the wine is full and rich. In the mouth, severe tannins
create a grinding sensation, while flavors of toast, blackberry,
cassis and brown sugar lead to a heavy, burnt tasting
finish that’s blocky in feel. Aviva Vino. —M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $25
RIOJA
90
Finca Valpiedra 2006 Reserva (Rioja).
Pure, condensed and dark on the nose, with
blasting aromas of blackberry, crusty spice and char,
this is packed like an overstuffed suitcase, with flavors
of jammy black fruit, fine herbs and spice. Shows more
big fruit on the finish and plenty of lasting berry flavor.
Drink now through 2014. Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $42
90
Señorio de Uñuela 2006 Reserva (Rioja).
Excellent modern Rioja at a fair price. Smells
solid, with crusty minerality and toasty oak to go with
black fruit aromas. Feels flush and voluminous, with
jammy blackberry, baked fig and coffee flavors. Toasty,
meaty and dark on the finish. Drink now through 2014.