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BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast

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texture, it revels in its fresh red-fruited character that<br />

gives an impressive intensity. With balanced touches of<br />

tannin and acidity, the wine should age well. Domaine<br />

Select <strong>Wine</strong> Estates. —R.V.<br />

abv: 12% Price: $65<br />

90<br />

Joseph Drouhin 2009 Côte de Beaune.<br />

One of the classic wines from Drouhin, this<br />

concentrated and ripe wine has rich tannins, certainly<br />

laced with wood. Plum and red-fruit flavors are a delicious<br />

presence to go with the firm, solid structure. Age<br />

for 3–4 years. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $34<br />

90<br />

Joseph Drouhin 2009 Côte de Beaune-<br />

Villages. For full review see page 8.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $24<br />

89<br />

Domaine Faiveley 2009 Clos des Myglands<br />

Premier Cru (Mercurey). Expect ripe<br />

and open fruit from this Faiveley owned vineyard in<br />

Mercurey. The wine tastes soft, the tannins well integrated<br />

into the ripe cherry and berry fruits. It could age,<br />

but it is ready to drink now. Frederick Wildman & Sons,<br />

Ltd. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $40<br />

89<br />

Domaine Moillard 2009 Rugiens Premier<br />

Cru (Pommard). While it does have the structure<br />

of a Pommard, this is also a ripe, rounded wine. Its<br />

sweet red fruits surround the firm tannins offering richness.<br />

A wine that will offer sold pleasure in 3–4 years.<br />

Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $120<br />

89<br />

Domaine Thierry Mortet 2009 Gevrey-<br />

Chambertin. A beautifully perfumed wine<br />

that shows some of the structure of a Gevrey but combines<br />

this with dark rich fruits and sweet tannins. There<br />

is a smoky flavor that balances the ripe red fruits and<br />

final acidity. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $55<br />

89<br />

Joseph Drouhin 2009 Chorey-les-<br />

Beaune. For full review see page 9. Editors’<br />

Choice.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $25<br />

89<br />

Moillard 2009 Les Saint-Georges Premier<br />

Cru (Nuits-St.-Georges). A firm, darkly<br />

structured wine. It has a hard edge of smoky wood<br />

tannins that dominate the black fruits, so it needs 2–3<br />

years to balance out. It’s always likely to be a firm, dense<br />

wine. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $120<br />

88<br />

Domaine Guillot-Broux 2009 Beaumont<br />

(Mâcon-Cruzille). A dense wine, its tannins<br />

firmly in place. It shows ripe red berry fruits, firm structure<br />

and rich, juicy fruit. Powered by its tannins, it will<br />

remain a firm wine for 2–3 years. Jenny and François<br />

Selections. —R.V.<br />

abv: 12.5% Price: $NA<br />

88<br />

Joseph Drouhin 2009 Santenay. Rounded<br />

and soft, with gentle tannins. Packed with black<br />

cherry fruits, a herbal edge and sweetness, this is al-<br />

ready an approachable wine, fruity and generous. Dreyfus,<br />

Ashby & Co. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $28<br />

88<br />

Maurice Ecard 2009 Les Serpentières<br />

Premier Cru (Savigny-lès-Beaune). Soft<br />

and ripe, this is a broad wine. Its tannins are enveloped<br />

by the rich plum and damson fruit flavors. It combines<br />

the richness of the vintage with the softness of a Savigny<br />

in an already delicious whole. Kysela Père et Fils.<br />

—R.V.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $48<br />

87<br />

Domaine Emmanuel Giboulot 2009 Sous<br />

le Mont (Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits).<br />

In the 2009 vintage, the wines of the Hautes-Côtes<br />

have an extra richness and warmth. This wine has flavors<br />

of cherries, raspberries that give fine acidity, as well<br />

as fruitiness. The tannins are already well integrated,<br />

finishing a wine that is deliciously juicy. Domaine Select<br />

<strong>Wine</strong> Estates. —R.V.<br />

abv: 12% Price: $45<br />

87<br />

Domaine Guillot-Broux 2010 Beaumont<br />

(Mâcon-Cruzille). A young tannic wine with<br />

jammy, fresh red-cherry fruits and red plum skins. The<br />

acidity is palpable, shooting through the structure, giving<br />

the wine a fresh, fruity aftertaste. Jenny and François<br />

Selections. —R.V.<br />

abv: 12.5% Price: $NA<br />

87<br />

Joseph Drouhin 2009 Côtes de Nuits-Villages.<br />

A soft, richly fruity cherry-flavored wine.<br />

Its tannins are so round they melt into the fruit. Acidity<br />

gives a deliciously fresh edge to this smooth and almostready-to-drink<br />

wine. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $22<br />

86<br />

Domaine Guillot-Broux 2003 Beaumont<br />

(Mâcon-Cruzille). There aren’t many 2003<br />

wines available today, and this raisin and red fruit flavored<br />

wine shows plenty of attractive ripe flavors. Dried<br />

fruits dominate, giving the wine a Port-like richness, the<br />

tannins now comfortably integrated in the texture. Jenny<br />

and François Selections. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $NA<br />

86<br />

Domaine Moillard 2009 Côte de Nuits-Villages.<br />

A fresh wine with red cherry fruits giving<br />

a bright character, the tannins soft and with attractive<br />

acidity. It is lightly textured and should be ready to<br />

drink in 1–2 years. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $35<br />

85<br />

Domaine Emmanuel Giboulot 2009<br />

Terres Burgondes Pinot Noir (Vin de Pays<br />

de Sainte-Marie la Blanche). A vin de pays from the<br />

hinterland of Burgundy. It is light and layered with intense<br />

red cherry acidity to give a fresh wine that can be<br />

drunk now. Domaine Select <strong>Wine</strong> Estates. —R.V.<br />

abv: 11.5% Price: $NA<br />

85<br />

Domaine Thierry Mortet 2009 Pinot Noir<br />

(Bourgogne). An earthy wine with rich, red<br />

fruits along with a barnyard flavor. The wine is ripe and<br />

jammy, the juicy acidity coming through at the end. Kysela<br />

Père et Fils. —R.V.<br />

abv: 12.5% Price: $27<br />

85<br />

Garnier et Fils 2009 Epineuil Pinot Noir<br />

(Bourgogne). On the tannic side, this is a<br />

structured although sweetly ripe wine. Red berry fruits<br />

are dominant, along with acidity. Coffee and dry tannins<br />

underneath. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.<br />

abv: 12.5% Price: $29<br />

85<br />

Maurice Ecard 2009 Pinot Noir (Bourgogne).<br />

A light and cherry-fresh Pinot Noir<br />

that has soft tannins, some herbal fruit and a juicy aftertaste.<br />

It shows intense acidity as well as final red berry<br />

fruits. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V.<br />

abv: 12.5% Price: $19<br />

85<br />

Vignerons de Buxy 2009 Blason de Bourgogne<br />

Pinot Noir (Bourgogne). A soft,<br />

raspberry filled wine with a bitter cherry and dry tannic<br />

counter-balance. The wine is light and fruity, although<br />

still with a firm structure. Plume Ridge Negociants.<br />

—R.V.<br />

abv: 12.5% Price: $NA<br />

SPAIN<br />

WHITE WINES<br />

89<br />

Pazo de Barrantes 2010 Pazo Barrantes<br />

Albariño (Rías Baixas). Pretty to sniff, with<br />

aromas of lemon, fresh white fruits and minerals. Feels<br />

crisp, chiseled and racy, with blazing acidity propelling<br />

green apple, lime, green melon and saline flavors.<br />

Long on the finish. Drink now. Maisons Marques & Domaines<br />

USA. —M.S.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $19<br />

87<br />

Concertum 2010 Albariño (Rías Baixas).<br />

Saline and oceanic on the bouquet, but largely<br />

it’s neutral-smelling. Feels tight and fresh, but tastes<br />

a bit stalky and bitter, with baked apple and a strong<br />

taste of straw. Finishes with white pepper notes and that<br />

same stalky flavor from before. Well-Oiled <strong>Wine</strong> Company.<br />

—M.S.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $20<br />

84<br />

Villacezan 2010 Elverite Blanco Albarín<br />

(Tierra de León). Citrusy on the nose, with<br />

tangerine and passion fruit aromas, with white grapefruit<br />

and less-defined citrus flavors. Grapefruit persists<br />

on the racy, tangy finish. American Estates <strong>Wine</strong>s, Inc.<br />

—M.S.<br />

abv: 12.5% Price: $15<br />

84<br />

Zarate 2008 El Palomar Albariño (Rías<br />

Baixas). Waxy and oily on the nose, then narrow<br />

as a thin line on the palate. Feels linear and sharp,<br />

with lemony flavors that come with a green apple accent.<br />

Tastes aged and maderized on the finish, despite<br />

displaying lemony acidity and tartness. Domaine Select<br />

<strong>Wine</strong> Estates. —M.S.<br />

abv: 12.5% Price: $60<br />

ROSÉS<br />

88<br />

Carlos Serres 2010 Serres Tempranillo-<br />

Garnacha Rosé (Rioja). Red in color, with<br />

fresh aromas of nectarine, orange peel and red currant.<br />

<strong>Wine</strong>Mag.com | 31

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