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BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast

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and firmness. The wine shows all the criteria for a long<br />

cellar life, softening slowly as the wine evolves. Age 10–<br />

20 more years. Orvino Imports & Distribution. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $49<br />

93<br />

Capanne Ricci 2006 Riserva (Brunello di<br />

Montalcino). A plump and juicy Brunello with<br />

bold, fresh fruit and loads of aromatic intensity. Cherry,<br />

plum and blackberry are backed by evolved tones of<br />

leather, spice and cola. Shows delicate details of wild<br />

berry and almond paste on the close. Smooth and velvety.<br />

Montcalm <strong>Wine</strong> Importers. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $60<br />

93<br />

Caprili 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino).<br />

A lovely riserva, with bold, opulent<br />

notes of cherry and plum. Leather, tobacco, rum cake,<br />

cola and dried sage add complexity.Admiralty Beverage.<br />

—M.L.<br />

abv: 15% Price: $75<br />

93<br />

Fattoria La Lecciaia 2006 Riserva<br />

(Brunello di Montalcino). Opens with a dry,<br />

dusty firmness that comes through both on the nose and<br />

in the mouth. This is fresh and tightly woven with very<br />

fine aromas of cassis, spice, crushed stone and milled<br />

white pepper. Very firm and tight; age 10 years. Monsieur<br />

Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $52<br />

93<br />

Fattoria La Lecciaia 2006 Vigna Manapetra<br />

Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino).<br />

This riserva opens with a textured, granular mouthfeel<br />

that is packed tight with leather, tobacco, dried berry<br />

and cola flavors. The close is fresh and menthol-driven.<br />

Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $58<br />

93<br />

Fuligni 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino).<br />

Sweet spice and dark fruit aromas offer<br />

all the telltale signs of a top-notch riserva. The wine<br />

is bright with etched acidity and strong tannins. Let it<br />

age 10 years or more. Defined, compact mouthfeel.<br />

Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $153<br />

93<br />

Il Poggiolo E. Cosimi 2006 Beato Riserva<br />

(Brunello di Montalcino). Pleasurable and<br />

modern, with a dense opulence that makes a wine like<br />

this attractive on so many levels. It delivers deep layers<br />

of ripe fruit, blackberry, vanilla bean, espresso and black<br />

pepper. Enotec Imports, Inc. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $90<br />

93<br />

La Mannella 2006 Riserva (Brunello<br />

di Montalcino). Tight, linear and compact.<br />

Clean, crisp and precise. Small berry aromas of cassis,<br />

wild berry and cherry are framed by firm, dusty tannins<br />

and a touch of toasted oak. Casa Torelli . —M.L.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $75<br />

93<br />

Lazzeretti 2006 Riserva (Brunello di<br />

Montalcino). Sophisticated, with tertiary aromas<br />

of crushed mineral, asphalt, cola, dried mint, wild<br />

berry and cassis. On the palate, it’s tight, compact and<br />

linear, with a long, polished finish. Pacific <strong>Wine</strong> Distributors.<br />

—M.L.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $NA<br />

20 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012<br />

93<br />

Le Chiuse 2006 Riserva (Brunello di<br />

Montalcino). This beautiful Brunello opens<br />

with lavish tones of dark fruit, exotic spice, espresso<br />

bean and crushed black pepper. The mouthfeel is interesting<br />

because it starts off bold and rich, but ends<br />

with the focused or chiseled sharpness that is typical of<br />

Sangiovese Grosso. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd.<br />

—M.L.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $95<br />

93<br />

Lisini 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino).<br />

Shows a pretty, polished nose with dusty<br />

mineral notes backed by elegant tones of dried berry,<br />

spice and leather. Nice complexity and balance. Loads<br />

of tobacco-like sensations on the close. Empson (USA)<br />

Ltd. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $118<br />

93<br />

Mocali 2006 Vigna delle Raunate Riserva<br />

(Brunello di Montalcino). This riserva is<br />

loaded with fruit. It’s a dark, inky wine that oozes black<br />

cherry, exotic spice, leather and moist pipe tobacco.<br />

After the tightness and firmness of the mouthfeel, the<br />

wine offers a playful endnote of blackberry jam. Michael<br />

Skurnik <strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $50<br />

93<br />

Molino di Sant’Antimo 2006 Riserva<br />

(Brunello di Montalcino). Linear, focused<br />

and bright, with rich, fleshy fruit in the form of cherry,<br />

blackberry and spiced plum cake. This is a fleshy pretty<br />

wine with an elegant mouthfeel. Delectatio <strong>Wine</strong>s.<br />

—M.L.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $55<br />

93<br />

Piccini 2006 Villa al Cortile Riserva<br />

(Brunello di Montalcino). Black cherry and<br />

coffee notes come to the fore and are followed by softer<br />

layers of spice, clove and cardamom. Pressed roses too.<br />

Firm and linear in the mouth with a tight tannic bite on<br />

the close. Drink after 2018. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $60<br />

93<br />

Pinino 2006 Pinone Riserva (Brunello di<br />

Montalcino). This wine offers loads of coffee<br />

and soft intensity, with ripe fruit, blackberry, rum cake<br />

and exotic spice. That extra roundness works well with<br />

this wine’s high acidity and tannic structure. USA <strong>Wine</strong><br />

Imports. —M.L.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $47<br />

93<br />

Poggio Antico 2006 Riserva (Brunello di<br />

Montalcino). Sharply defined aromas of spice,<br />

chiseled mineral, dried tobacco and cassis open the<br />

bouquet of this dark, concentrated wine. There’s a floral<br />

note of spicy potpourri and cinnamon stick, tight tannins<br />

and bright acidity.The Sorting Table. —M.L.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $140<br />

93<br />

San Felice 2006 Campogiovanni Il Quercione<br />

Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino).<br />

Dark, brooding, thick, masculine, this wine shows loads<br />

of big Brunello personality. It offers thick concentration,<br />

a velvety and plush mouthfeel, followed by dark<br />

flavors of blackberry, prune, spice, leather, cedar and<br />

pipe tobacco. Premium Brands. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $135<br />

93<br />

Terralsole 2006 Riserva (Brunello di<br />

Montalcino). Pressed rose, slightly dusty mineral<br />

shadings, spice and black fruit make up the bouquet<br />

of this elegant, harmonious wine. This expression<br />

is astringent and firm, with bright acidity and a solid tannic<br />

backbone. Let it soften with more cellar aging. Terralsole.<br />

—M.L.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $80<br />

92<br />

Altesino 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino).<br />

This Brunello Riserva is defined by a<br />

layer of coffee and espresso that peels back nicely to reveal<br />

dark fruit, cassis, leather and tobacco. It’s smooth,<br />

ripe, fresh and structured. <strong>Wine</strong>bow. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $80<br />

92<br />

Brunelli Martoccia 2006 Riserva (Brunello<br />

di Montalcino). This Brunello offers interesting<br />

complexity in its cola and balsam notes. The wine<br />

has a big, bright intensity, with crisp acidity and a lean,<br />

compact mouthfeel that’s rather austere and stern. Ultimately<br />

the wine is more generous on the nose than<br />

in the mouth and finishes with lasting freshness. Small<br />

Vineyards LLC. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $80<br />

92<br />

Cantina di Montalcino 2006 Riserva<br />

(Brunello di Montalcino). A traditional style<br />

of riserva, this wine shows aromas of spice, candied berry,<br />

smoked bacon, cinnamon, white pepper and dried<br />

sage. There’s also a floral element of red rose or lavender.<br />

It is light and crisp, with a firm finish. <strong>Wine</strong> Wave.<br />

—M.L.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $115<br />

92<br />

Fattoria dei Barbi 2006 Riserva (Brunello<br />

di Montalcino). This brunello offers a pretty<br />

bouquet, showing elegance and restraint at the same<br />

time. There are layers of small berry fruit, spice and<br />

leather, with dusty, dry tannins. The wine’s overall astringency<br />

should soften with time.Pasternak <strong>Wine</strong> Imports.<br />

—M.L.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $90<br />

92<br />

Innocenti 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino).<br />

The wine gives an impression of being<br />

supple and soft, at least on the nose, but you can feel the<br />

firm structure in the mouth. The quality of the tannins<br />

is dusty, firm and unyielding at this early stage. Drink in<br />

5–10 years. Mission <strong>Wine</strong> Company. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $NA<br />

92<br />

La Collina dei Lecci 2006 Riserva<br />

(Brunello di Montalcino). This wine presents<br />

a dark wall of inky concentration with aromas of<br />

ripe fruit and raw cherry. There are earthy tones in the<br />

background that are characteristic of Sangiovese, with<br />

floral and menthol nuances as well. The tannins are firm<br />

and polished. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $52<br />

92<br />

La Fiorita 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino).<br />

A Brunello on the bold and ripe side,<br />

with smoked bacon, blackberry, sweet spice, rum cake<br />

and black licorice. It shows impressive staying power.

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