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ITALY THE 95-POINT 2007 VINTAGE IN BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO The 2007 vintage of Brunello di Montalcino is a lovely expression of variety and territory—a true celebration of this austere yet sophisticated red wine from southern Tuscany. As Italian Editor for Wine Enthusiast Magazine, I was among the first to blind taste through the new vintage and found it to be one of the most exciting vintages since the start of the millennium. Following an intense tasting of some 250 wines at the local vintners’ association headquarters in Montalcino, I scored the 2007 vintage 95 points on our 100-point scale. The 2006 vintage earned 93 points last year, and both vintages were given a maximum five stars by the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino. So what sets 2007 apart? The strong cola or menthol-like notes of licorice, dried ginger, cured meat and white pepper, or as the Italians refer to these characteristics, note balsamiche. These delicate and compelling aromas are unique to Sangiovese. It’s a pleasure to find such harmony and consistency in a single vintage. TUSCANY 2007 BRUNELLO 97 Capanna 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Capanna’s offering in 2007 is extremely bold, dark and opulent. Loads of aromatic momentum in the form of blackberry, cherry liqueur, spice, leather, tobacco, rum cake, cinnamon, vanilla bean and bitter chocolate characterize the bouquet. The wine also shows a soft, ripe, generous texture, yet remains well-contained and balanced. Masciarelli Wine Co. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $55 97 Casanova di Neri 2007 Tenuta Nuova (Brunello di Montalcino). Gorgeous, opulent and rich, Tenuta Nuova is an unforgettable wine. It has body, power, persistence and loads of plush personality. It is layered with chocolate, cherry, blackberry, spice, leather and savory notes. There’s a deep mineral layer as well. Compelling and lovely. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $79 97 Luce della Vite 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Luce della Vite opens with an opulent, generous style and is packed with black cherry, black currant, cola, leather and pipe tobacco. This is a plush, rich and deeply textured wine, with plenty of intensity and staying power. It shows dense tannins with a touch of youthful astringency. Age 10 more years. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $93 96 Corte Pavone 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. For full review see page 3. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $75 2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2012 95 Casanova di Neri 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. This 2007 Brunello is a big, opulent pleasure bomb with lavish layers, loaded thickly on top of each other: Chocolate fudge, dark cherry, blackberry preserves, rum cake, prune, exotic spice, pipe tobacco, cola, humus and leather. It shows huge personality, intensity and staying power, too. All that density is backed by solid tannins and a steady firmness. Hold 10–15 years. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 95 Castelgiocondo 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. From Tuscany’s celebrated Frescobaldi wine family, Brunello Castelgiocondo opens with dark, inky concentration and bold aromas of pressed rose, black cherry, exotic spice, leather and unsweetened chocolate. It is beautifully put together, with ample intensity, balance, complexity and silkiness on the finish. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $75 95 La Gerla 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Ripe fruit and red cherry, with spice, cinnamon and wood shop aromas, characterize the youthful bouquet of La Gerla’s latest Brunello. But there’s also a pretty mineral tone that gives the nose backbone and definition. It is delicate and feminine in the mouth, with elegant flavors of wild berry and blue flower that will surely grow in intensity as the wine evolves. Give it 10 more years. Southern Wine and Spirits. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $50 95 La Mannella 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A gorgeous Brunello, with bountiful and intense aromas of red fruit, blackberry, spice, leather and cedar wood that go on and on. The wine is pristine, chiseled and sharp—but bold and generous at the same The 2006 vintage was characterized by higher acidity and long aging potential. But overall, the wines are sharper, linear and more austere than in 2007. On the other hand, the 2007 vintage is soft, round and opulent, and shows incredible aromatic intensity. Yet it still delivers firm structure and enough power for aging. Sangiovese Grosso is a naturally acidic variety, with freshness that’s very well balanced in 2007. The fruit component in this vintage is rich with black currant and wild berry. While past vintages have been dominated by bold cherry, the 2007 is more nuanced. These wines are ready to drink sooner than is typical for the wines of the region, but they also show excellent aging potential because of their firm, velvety structures. The ripeness of their tannins makes them generous and approachable. Most estates performed consistently well in 2006 and 2007, though there was more variability in 2006. The 2007 vintage, with its cool summer and dry conditions, showed positive results across the Montalcino area, even in the coolest, north-facing subzones. —Monica Larner time. There’s a touch of bitter almond followed by softer tones of red berry and spice. Casa Torelli. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $47 95 Padelletti 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Here’s a bright and bold Brunello with loads of ripe cherry, inky density and a beautifully polished feel with crushed mineral and wet river stone elements. It’s a truly beautiful wine with stunning purity and intensity. All elements are balanced—from the fruit, to the spice, to the ethereal balsam notes. The mouthfeel is lively and intense and the finish is packed with berry, almond and savory persistence. Age 10–15 years. J.D. Cellars Inc. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $60 95 Pieve Santa Restituta 2007 Rennina (Brunello di Montalcino). Put this beautiful Brunello in your cellar for at least 10–15 more years. Rennina opens with bold oak and cherry tones (that need more time to integrate), followed by plump, rich blackberry flavors, chocolate, leather and dark spice. It’s a wine characterized by impressive density and opulence. Terlato Wines International. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $175 95 Podere Brizio 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A beautifully composed and well-constructed Brunello, with bright berry tones of cassis and cherry backed by ethereal notes of root beer and eucalyptus. The wine shows a clean, crisp and structured sensation in the mouth—with a touch of bitter almond on the Continued on Page 12
The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Contributing Editor Michael Schachner and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York, European Editor Roger Voss in Bordeaux, Italian Editor Monica Larner in Rome, California Editor Steve Heimoff in Oakland, Contributing Editor Paul Gregutt in Seattle and Contributing Editor Virginie Boone in Santa Rosa. If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials appear following the note. When no initials appear following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits Reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo. Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind unless otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in assigning scores. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted. ABOUT THE SCORES Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics. Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; often good value. Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, lesscritical circumstances. Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 points) are not reviewed. SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent quality at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price with unique qualities that merit special attention. Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated. Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae for determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are generally priced at $15 or less. SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing location as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag. com/contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting & Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@ wineenthusiast.net. There is no charge for submitting products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be accompanied by the appropriate submission forms, which may be downloaded from our Web site. LABELS Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on label purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax 866.896.8786; or email dvalenza@wineenthusiast.net. Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at buyingguide.winemag.com Corte Pavone 2007 Brunello di Montalci- 96 no. This dark Brunello opens with thick concentration and balsam notes of cola, humus and eucalyptus. Despite the thick extraction, the berry aromas are delicate, with lingering wild raspberry and forest fruit. The wine shows a nice juxtaposition between its bold, masculine side and an elegant feminine one. The mouthfeel is bold, plush and powerful. HeyDay Corporation. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $75 96 Marimar Estate 2008 La Masía Don Miguel Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Absolutely stunning, a testament to the vintage, the terroir and to the winemaker’s impeccable hand. It’s delicious beyond description, offering wave after wave of cherry pie, blackberry confit, red currant, persimmon and cola flavors, finished with exciting spices. Already throwing sediment, it’s so balanced in acids and tannins that it’s gorgeous now, but should develop effortlessly over the next six years at the very least. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $39 95 Dunham 2007 XIII Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Tasted at more than four years of age, this is a standout effort in a series that dates back to the mid-1990s. A complex nose greets you with a floral, dusty tickle, leading into a fruit-packed wine, with blueberry and black cherry most evident. Notes of black olive and graphite come through on the long finish, with exceptional grip and polish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $45 95 Longoria 2009 Fe Ciega Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). A top-rank Pinot Noir, dry, silky and elegant, with moderate alcohol despite great richness. The flavors of cherries, cola, plums and herbs are simply delicious, while the structure displays great integrity of acids and tannins. A bit tight now in youth, it should unfold over the next eight years. If you pop the cork now, give it a few hours of airing. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $48 95 Venge 2009 Bone Ash Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Venge’s superb 2008 Bone Ash was a tough act to follow, but this 2009 pulls it off. Made entirely from Cabernet and aged for nearly two years in mostly new French oak, it shows massively rich flavors of blackberries, cassis and sweet buttered toast, with a lush, smooth mouthfeel, courtesy of ripe, sweet tannins. So easy to like, and an ideal partner to a perfectly grilled steak. Drink now and over the next six years. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $80 94 Chronicle 2009 Cerise Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). One sip is all it takes to know this is a terrific Pinot Noir. It’s dry, silky and complex, and not only that, it will develop bottle nuance over the next six years. Rich and flamboyant in cherry pie filling, persimmon and mushu-plum sauce flavors, yet layered with earthy, foresty notes of mushrooms, soy sauce and balsam. You can drink it now, but give it an hour or two of decanting. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $60 WineMag.com | 3
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Page 19 and 20: long-lasting. This is a beautiful w
Page 21 and 22: It’s tannic, firm and ready for a
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Page 25 and 26: 85 La Torre 2010 Rosso di Montalcin
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Page 31 and 32: texture, it revels in its fresh red
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Page 37 and 38: y. Drink now-2015. The Triton Colle
Page 39 and 40: in a zesty, mouthwatering finish. D
Page 41 and 42: turns crisp and edgy on the finish.
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87 Francis Ford Coppola 2009 Direct
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in blackberry and cherry fruit and
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86 Lava Cap 2009 Estate Barbera (El
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SPIRITS REMEMBER THE REPOSADO drink
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BEER STOCKING UP FOR SUMMER With su
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