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ture is there but the fruit definition is less apparent. Panebianco. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $60 88 Armilla 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. There’s a dark smoky element to this hearty Brunello that recalls cured beef, moist earth, cedar, leather and rum cake. The wine is silky and smooth, with a noticeably clean quality to the finish.Jao Wine Imports. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA 88 Bellaria 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. This wine’s ripe cherry fruit and milk chocolate notes suggest softness and roundness. But the wine shows astringency and firmness on the close. Terra Verus Trading Co. LP. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $59 88 Casa Raia 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Dark, inky and brooding, this thickly extracted Brunello shows thick layers of ripe cherry, crème de cassis and blackberry with background tones of rum cake, ground clove, cola, leather and fresh tobacco. There’s a meaty element of bresaola or smoked bacon as well. IPO Wines. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $36 88 Col di Lamo 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Milk chocolate and sweet cherry aromas appear alongside cured meat and plump black fruit. This is a straightforward Brunello with a creamy, soft close. Vignaioli. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $65 88 Ferrero 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Showing youthful oak tones that still need time to integrate, this wine is a bit sour and ripe at the same time. Black cherry, tobacco, leather and spice aromas are nice, but the tannins are firm, and the wine shows a bright point of acidity on the close and a gritty, cookedfruit finish. K&L Wine Merchants. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 88 La Fiorita 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. This hearty Brunello shows a ripe, almost jammy personality with strawberry and raspberry preserve notes. There are background tones of exotic spice, vanilla and cinnamon that help support the wine’s chewy fruit. The mouthfeel is soft and velvety. Chambers & Chambers. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA 88 La Torre 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A pretty ensemble of floral tones, ripe fruit and toasted almond leads into drying touches of granite and mineral, with some root beer-like notes. Some raw berry aromas need time to soften. Shows a silky, polished feel, then turns compact, crisp, firm and clean on the close. Rosenthal Wine Merchants. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $70 88 Le Chiuse 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Charred almond and graham cracker notes need time to integrate. The wine is compact and lean in the mouth, with endnotes of small berry fruit, bram- 18 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012 ble, white almond and cola. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $50 88 Tassi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Subdued on the nose, this wine still needs to stretch its proverbial muscles. Its flavors of cherry liqueur, rum cake, blackberry and forest underbrush give voice to a clean, traditional winemaking philosophy. Wine Emporium. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $70 87 Livio Sassetti 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Almost completely black, this wine reveals inky-dark concentration and dark, jammy fruit. Shows power and smoky barbecue aromas of soy sauce, teriyaki, bresaola, cherry liqueur, rum cake, Spanish cedar and sticky pipe tobacco. Cured meat and savory spice as well. Seems extracted and overripe, with hard tannins.Massanois Imports. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $55 2006 BRUNELLO RISERVA 98 Valdicava 2006 Madonna del Piano Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This beautiful riserva shows enormous thickness and blackness, like midnight of a new moon. The wine delivers impenetrable density, extraction, black fruit, spice, berry preserves, licorice, asphalt, ground black pepper, cherry liqueur and crème de cassis. There are seemingly no limits to the intensity and complexity here. The mouthfeel is dense, plush, firmly structured and very long. Keep this Brunello safely in your cellar 20 years or more. Vinifera Imports. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $275 96 Capanna 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This riserva is simply gorgeous, with loads of fresh fruit, mineral, spice, leather, tobacco and long aging potential. The freshness and structure is definitely present, while the mouthfeel is luscious and opulent with vanilla, espresso and dried herb or menthol overtones. Masciarelli Wine Co. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $80 96 Il Poggione 2006 Riserva Vigna Paganelli (Brunello di Montalcino). This vineyarddesignated riserva delivers perfumed notes of red rose, pressed flower and a bright, berry-driven bouquet. In the mouth, this is a plump, bold wine with thick concentration and loads of dark fruit such as blackberry and plum. The tannic firmness suggests at least 10 years of cellar aging. Overall, it is beautiful, elegant and bold. Terlato Wines International. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $95 96 Tenuta La Fuga 2006 Le Due Sorelle Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This riserva shows gorgeous intensity and a beautiful, dense texture. There’s just enough softness to cushion the naturally high acidity of 2006. It’s firm, silky, rich, powerful and super long. In fact, the extraordinary length is what sets this wine apart. Age 10–15 years. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $75 95 Canalicchio di Sopra 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Here is a generous, modern and bold expression of Sangiovese Grosso whose soft layers of chocolate and dark cherry fruit help soften the natural acidity and structure of the 2006 vintage. A polished mineral note adds attractive definition on the finish. Tight and very firm; age this wine 10–20 years. Vinifera Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $120 95 Castello Banfi 2006 Poggio all’Oro Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Poggio all’Oro (a wine only produced in the best vintages) is a sophisticated and austere Brunello with just a tiny dab of sweet spice and red rose aromas on the bouquet. Beyond those are steady, savory pulses of tobacco, leather and dark cedar. The wine is plush, textured and rich, with a polished firmness that keeps it grounded on the palate. Banfi Vintners. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $150 95 Castello Romitorio 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Artist Sandro Chia and his team have delivered a lush, modern, approachable and opulent riserva with aromas of spice, ripe fruit, chocolate fudge and red cherry. This is a round and supple wine, with a soft, generous mouthfeel backed by firm structure and bright acidity. Vinifera Imports. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $150 95 Donatella Cinelli Colombini 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). From an allfemale winery, this riserva opens with a deep garnet color. Black espresso bean, vanilla pod, toasted chestnut and dark, brooding fruit characterize the bouquet. It is bright and crisp in the mouth, with a sharply defined edge and polished tannins. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $70 95 La Serena 2006 Riserva Gemini (Brunello di Montalcino). This is a smooth, balanced and intense wine that opens with a deep, saturated appearance and plush aromas of sweet spice, rum cake, leather, tobacco and ripe blackberry. This bold, modern expression of Brunello shows acidity and tannins that are firm, but not biting.A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $135 95 PianCornello 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Here is a very plush, dark and decadent riserva with soft and luscious tones of ripe fruit, blackberry, moist earth and pipe tobacco. The wine is smooth, dense and enduring. It can be either aged or consumed in 3–5 years. The style reflects a soft, round approach to the crisp 2006 vintage. Superior Wines LLC. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $70 95 Poggio Nardone 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Poggio Nardone’s 2006 riserva is a neverending journey of opulence and excellence. Everything is delivered in supersized intensity— the cherry, chocolate, spice, cola, cassis, leather and cedar. The mouthfeel is soft, finely textured, shapely and
long-lasting. This is a beautiful wine that will age many years to come. Michael Skurnik Wines. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $65 95 Siro Pacenti 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Not an obvious wine by any stretch, this riserva opens slowly and bashfully to deliver small pulses of cherry, chocolate and smoked bacon that build in intensity and power as the wine gains momentum in the glass. The tannins are present but are soft and firm without any bitter astringency. Age 10 years or more. Michael Skurnik Wines. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $120 95 Verbena 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). A pretty and lusciously layered Brunello with dark fruit, spice, leather, tobacco and rum cake aromas. The wine is dense and chewy, with a tight, velvety feel. Dark fruit and spice push the wine across the palate, and both the acidity and tannins are softer than in other 2006 riservas. Michael R. Downey Selections. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $75 94 Bellaria 2006 Assunto Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Dark fruit aromas of cherry, blackberry and exotic spice comprise the bouquet. There’s inky density, contrasted against delicate aromas of lead pencil, cola and cured meat. The wine is plush, rich and extracted, with dusty, firm tannins. Terra Verus Trading Co. LP. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $85 94 Castelgiocondo 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). An intense and opulent Brunello, with bold brush strokes of ripe cherry, blackberry, chocolate, coffee and mocha. Concentrated fruit and firm tannins are marked by a pretty touch of dusty mineral on the finish. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $120 94 Collosorbo 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This successful riserva displays opulence and a bold, modern style that focuses on bright cherry and savory spice aromas. The wine is loaded with density and richness, and combines a ripe soft feel with a lively berries on the finish. Frank Johnson Selections. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $75 94 Cupano 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Sweet oak tones of cinnamon, ripe cherry and raspberry are delivered via a beautifully intense bouquet. This is a Brunello with tight tannins, fresh acidity and solid structure. Verdeor Select Vintages. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $130 94 Fornacina 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Opens with dark concentration and extra flesh and density in terms of texture. There’s an extra padding of softness that helps buffer the vintage’s high acidity and natural firmness. Not ready to drink for another 10 years at least. Villa Italia. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $92 94 Gianni Brunelli 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This interpretation of Sangiovese Grosso is clean, polished, ripe and elegant. It opens with dark concentration and berry notes of cassis and candied cherry, and then rum cake, leather and tobacco show up on the finish, backed by firm tannins and bright acidity. Acid Inc Selections. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $75 94 Il Poggiolo E. Cosimi 2006 Il Mio Brunello Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Inky color, with a broad array of aromas, including earth, candied fruit, plum cake and cinnamon spice. Smooth and luscious in the mouth, where its tight structure shows promising potential for longevity. Massanois Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $110 94 La Fortuna 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This riserva is silky, firm and polished, with bright fruit nuances of wild berry, almond skin, cola and lingering menthol overtones. The mouthfeel is bright and crisp, with a very fine, smooth texture. Dusty mineral notes appear on the finish. MHW, Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA 94 La Gerla 2006 Riserva gli Angeli (Brunello di Montalcino). Always a beautiful wine, this edition of Riserva gli Angeli is austere, sophisticated, lean and elegant. It shows a fine, silky texture with bright aromas of wild berry, cola and mint. There are also interesting tertiary aromas of leather, dusty mineral and cured meat at the back. Southern Wine and Spirits. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $70 94 La Poderina 2006 Poggio Abate Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). There’s a sassy, spicy quality here, with clove and spice, cola, root beer and black licorice. Smooth, dark extraction with bold structure. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA 94 Mocali 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This Brunello delivers an intense and complex bouquet featuring beautifully integrated aromas of dark fruit, spice, leather and tobacco. Tight tannins promise a long future ahead.Michael Skurnik Wines. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $65 94 Podere Brizio 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This wine has some big shoulders. There’s a dusty, aged quality, with sophisticated, silky tannins and tertiary aromas of black licorice, dried tobacco, peppercorn and dried berry fruit. It’s firm, tight and compact; age 10 more years. A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $120 94 Poggio il Castellare 2006 Pian Bossolino Riseva (Brunello di Montalcino). A dark inky wine with a bold garnet color and some am- ber highlights on the rim. The wine is soft, plush and rich with candied fruit, leather, spice, licorice, crushed mineral and asphalt. Margate Wine & Spirit Company. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $85 94 Quattroventi 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This beautiful riserva opens with dark concentration and bold berry notes spanning from cassis to blackberry. It’s a ripe, extracted wine with savory spice and cured meat aromas that fill in the back. Crushed black pepper and cardamom also make a brief, but lively, appearance. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA 94 San Filippo di Giannelli 2006 Le Lucére Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Dense, bold and beautiful, with notes of plush cherry, blackberry, clove, cinnamon, cola and dried rosemary. Polished, with a dusty, silky feel to the long finish.A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $110 94 San Lorenzo 2006 Bramante Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). From one of Tuscany’s most celebrated wine areas, this luscious wine is soft, beautifully textured and plush. It shows ripe red fruit, plus leather, tobacco, sweet cinnamon and marzipan on the bouquet.Vos Vinum Importing Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA 94 San Polino 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). A rich and sophisticated wine, with loads of dark fruit and exotic spice. It’s bright rubygarnet appearance, with bright acidity and a fresh, lively finish. T. Edward Wines Ltd. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $85 94 San Polo 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This is a beautiful wine with opulent aromas of chocolate fudge, cherry, vanilla bean and bright berry fruit. Yet in the mouth, it’s is very focused, with enough structure and acidity to promise a long future. The finish is silky and fine. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $90 94 Tenuta Vitanza 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). The aromas feature beautiful tones of black mineral, licorice, peppercorn and ripe fruit. This is a dark, brooding Brunello with an elegant, dry nose and layers of opulence that build momentum. Overall, it’s round, rich and well structured. Drink after 2018. Vintners Estate Direct Importing. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $75 93 Camigliano 2006 Gualto Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Holds back just a bit initially, but then evolves slowly and steadily. Delivers a very firm, polished and linear feel in the mouth. Dusty aromas of crushed stone and crushed white pepper are backed by cola, cassis and red currant. An elegant and sophisticated Brunello. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $90 93 Canneta 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Well etched, defined and crisp, this is a strong, determined wine with loads of power, acidity WineMag.com | 19
Page 1 and 2: Clay McLachlan 2 ITALY 29 FRANCE 31
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Page 5 and 6: 93 Marimar Estate 2008 Stony Block
Page 7 and 8: 91 Coghlan 2009 Tourmaline Grenache
Page 9 and 10: 89 Darcie Kent Vineyards 2008 Madde
Page 11 and 12: 88 BEST BUYS Releaf 2010 Made With
Page 13 and 14: at the back will undoubtedly increa
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Page 17: 90 Lazzeretti 2007 Brunello di Mont
Page 21 and 22: It’s tannic, firm and ready for a
Page 23 and 24: ROSSO DI MONTALCINO 91 Capanne Ricc
Page 25 and 26: 85 La Torre 2010 Rosso di Montalcin
Page 27 and 28: 86 Collemassari 2010 Gròttolo Ros
Page 29 and 30: and lemon soda. There’s a sharp,
Page 31 and 32: texture, it revels in its fresh red
Page 33 and 34: Devo Enterprises Corporation. Edito
Page 35 and 36: 89 Cramele Halewood 2009 Kronos Lim
Page 37 and 38: y. Drink now-2015. The Triton Colle
Page 39 and 40: in a zesty, mouthwatering finish. D
Page 41 and 42: turns crisp and edgy on the finish.
Page 43 and 44: as more standard cassis and berry a
Page 45 and 46: y and lightly oaky, minty flavors.
Page 47 and 48: 90 Sarah’s Vineyard 2010 Chardonn
Page 49 and 50: 91 Coghlan 2009 Tourmaline Grenache
Page 51 and 52: and oak flavors. It’s one of thos
Page 53 and 54: 87 Francis Ford Coppola 2009 Direct
Page 55 and 56: lovely, but should develop over the
Page 57 and 58: in blackberry and cherry fruit and
Page 59 and 60: 86 Lava Cap 2009 Estate Barbera (El
Page 61 and 62: tain fruit. Ripe plums and cherries
Page 63 and 64: SPIRITS REMEMBER THE REPOSADO drink
Page 65: BEER STOCKING UP FOR SUMMER With su

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