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BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast

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90<br />

Lazzeretti 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />

Here is a clean, straightforward Brunello with<br />

pretty aromas of wild berry, vanilla, leather, spice and<br />

rum cake. It shows a genuine, frank style with a sweet,<br />

velvety close. Pacific <strong>Wine</strong> Distributors. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $NA<br />

90<br />

Marchesi Antinori 2007 Pian delle Vigne<br />

(Brunello di Montalcino). Bramble and forest<br />

floor, cherry cola and savory bresaola notes amount<br />

to pretty aromatics with less bulkiness in the mouth.<br />

The structure is there but this wine is a bit dry, sharp<br />

and less fleshy than many others.Ste. Michelle <strong>Wine</strong> Estates.<br />

—M.L.<br />

abv: NA Price: $80<br />

90<br />

Pecci Celestino 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />

Spice, cherry liqueur, dark fruit, leather<br />

and moist tobacco comprise the bouquet. Structured<br />

and firm, the wine delivers a clean, focused feel. Palateur<br />

Imports. —M.L.<br />

abv: 15% Price: $79<br />

90<br />

Poggio Rubino 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />

A bright and direct Brunello with aromatic<br />

intensity in the form of small berry, almond skin,<br />

toasted espresso and nut notes. There’s a charred, toasted<br />

element to the wine that at this young stage adds<br />

some astringency to the mouthfeel. Finishes firm and<br />

crisp. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $NA<br />

90<br />

Solaria 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />

Some charred almond or toast aromas join with<br />

black berry and crushed granite in this full and generous<br />

wine. Nice linear quality allows the berry fruit to glide<br />

over a long smooth finish. Good structure and intensity<br />

but not overdone. Elliott Bay Distributing Co. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $NA<br />

90<br />

Talenti 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />

Cola, black licorice, cherry liqueur and rum<br />

cake presage loads of ripe fruit and power. Yet it’s lean<br />

and compact on the finish, with bright acidity that<br />

would pair well with pecorino stagionato or any aged<br />

cheese.Robert Chadderdon Selections. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $NA<br />

90<br />

Villa I Cipressi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />

This Brunello opens with a sweet nose of<br />

vanilla and cherry. The bouquet is straightforward, giving<br />

the wine a frank, no-nonsense personality. Flavors of<br />

spice, leather and tobacco appear later, rendering more<br />

depth. It feels youthful, soft and chewy on the close.<br />

A.I. Selections . —M.L.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $55<br />

89<br />

Agostina Pieri 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />

A delicate and subtle expression of Sangiovese<br />

Grosso, with tight touches of wild berry, almond<br />

skin, forest bramble, rum cake, cola and eucalyptus.<br />

Streamlined and tight, with great power on the close. A<br />

very compact and tightly constructed wine. Rare <strong>Wine</strong><br />

Company. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $50<br />

89<br />

Baccinetti 2007 Saporoia (Brunello di<br />

Montalcino). Garnet-ruby hue with slightly<br />

browning rim. Savory aromas of cured meat, cola, dried<br />

fruit and rum cake upfront, while warm earthy, tobacco<br />

and leather tones fill in the rear. Sophisticated and<br />

rich, reminiscent of a storied, nostalgic Brunello tradition.<br />

Generous, but with a firm, drying feel on the finish.<br />

K&L <strong>Wine</strong> Merchants. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $45<br />

89<br />

Baricci 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. The<br />

wine is subdued and clean on the nose and it<br />

doesn’t exaggerate or mask the quality of fruit. This is<br />

executed in a bright, compact and streamlined style that<br />

combines freshness and firmness. Premier <strong>Wine</strong> Co.<br />

—M.L.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $40<br />

89<br />

Bellaria 2007 Assunto (Brunello di Montalcino).<br />

Some superripe notes of strawberry<br />

jam and candied fruit lead into notes of rum cake, cherry<br />

liqueur and cured meat. A bold, masculine mouthfeel<br />

comes courtesy of firm, structured tannins. Terra Verus<br />

Trading Co. LP. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $54<br />

89<br />

Bonacchi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />

Big and bold, but a bit disjointed aromatically.<br />

Ripe fruit and pipe tobacco vie with a fine note of<br />

graphite or lead pencil. It seems soft, with a touch of<br />

sweetness, but crisp tannins. Give it a few more years to<br />

unwind. Finishes thick and chewy. Baum <strong>Wine</strong> Imports<br />

Inc. —M.L.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $NA<br />

89<br />

Cantina di Montalcino 2007 Brunello di<br />

Montalcino. A bright nose of cherry, vanilla<br />

and rum cake leads into a moderately intense midpalate,<br />

with bright endnotes of dried mint and ginger on<br />

the cool, crisp finish. <strong>Wine</strong> Wave. —M.L.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $46<br />

89<br />

Collosorbo 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />

Here’s a tight, streamlined Brunello characterized<br />

by a toasted or charred almond note and bright forest<br />

notes of wild berry and underbrush. The mouthfeel<br />

is lean and tight, and there’s a tannic firmness that holds<br />

it together. Frank Johnson Selections. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $50<br />

89<br />

Il Marroneto 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />

Nice ripeness, fullness and generosity here.<br />

The bouquet opens with bold brushstrokes that don’t<br />

match the delicate, subdued feel in the mouth. It delivers<br />

most of its energy on the nose and segues to a much<br />

calmer, more straightforward style on the close. Montcalm<br />

<strong>Wine</strong> Importers. —M.L.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $45<br />

89<br />

La Colombina 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />

This wine strikes a nice balance between<br />

sweet and savory spice on the nose, with ripe fruit,<br />

prune and leather in the background. This is a velvety,<br />

warm, earthy wine with a broad aromatic delivery and<br />

bold Brunello style. It’s smooth and round, without any<br />

of the sharp acidic accents you sometimes find in Sangiovese<br />

Grosso. Michael Skurnik <strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $40<br />

89<br />

La Rasina 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />

A bold, inky-black style that is slightly overdone<br />

and a touch overripe. Despite aromas of blackberry preserves,<br />

prune and rum cake, this is a strongly masculine<br />

wine that puts its savory side first. The close is packed<br />

tight with smoked bacon and cured beef aromas. Textured<br />

tannins create some astringency on the finish.<br />

Montecastelli Selections. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $48<br />

89<br />

Le Gode 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />

This Brunello shows elegant aromatic restraint<br />

in its tight aromas of wild berry and red currant. Dark<br />

flavors of barbecue spice, cured meat, leather and tobacco<br />

layer the midpalate, then turn fine and full on the<br />

finish. Conexport. —M.L.<br />

abv: NA Price: $80<br />

89<br />

Marchesato degli Aleramici 2007 Brunello<br />

di Montalcino. There’s a progression of<br />

aromas here, with some bright candied fruit alongside<br />

rum cake, dried ginger, licorice and forest floor. The<br />

fruit component resembles crème de cassis and red currant.<br />

Despite all that pretty movement in the bouquet,<br />

the wine is lean and bright in the mouth, and gets the<br />

job done in terms of keeping the palate refreshed. Fedway<br />

Imports. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $45<br />

89<br />

Pinino 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. This<br />

wine goes from delivering savory spice, cured<br />

meat and smoked bacon to being lean and not too intense<br />

or persistent on the close. The alcohol and dry<br />

tannins want more plush fruit for support. USA <strong>Wine</strong><br />

Imports. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $40<br />

89<br />

Ridolfi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />

Spicy wood notes, dark fruit, rum cake, dried<br />

ginger, licorice and cola add up to an ethereal and elegant<br />

Brunello that is more smooth and silky than it is<br />

bold and bulky. Spice, sandalwood and cedar appear on<br />

the close, but it has a compact, streamlined structure.<br />

George <strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $50<br />

89<br />

SassodiSole 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />

A classic Brunello with a savory, aged quality<br />

that exudes sophistication and elegance. Dried fruit,<br />

cassis, spice, old leather and rum cake form the bouquet.<br />

The wine is finely textured, sharp and clean in<br />

the mouth. Seems aged, savory and austere. The Gullà<br />

Group. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $50<br />

89<br />

Villa Poggio Salvi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />

An aging wine with a garnet-ruby color<br />

and bricking at the rim. Aromas of barbecue smoke,<br />

cured meat, leather, tobacco and dark fruit give way to<br />

tight, finely textured tannins on the palate. Shaw-Ross<br />

International Importers. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $45<br />

89<br />

Vini Italiani da Sogno 2007 Carillon<br />

(Brunello di Montalcino). The subtle, subdued<br />

nose is of perfumed spice, dried red rose and currant.<br />

But there is chewy softness here and enough extraction<br />

to hold the wine firm on the palate. The struc-<br />

<strong>Wine</strong>Mag.com | 17

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