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BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast

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close—that revives and refreshes the palate. A Marc de<br />

Grazia selection; various American importers. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $70<br />

95<br />

San Polo 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />

San Polo delivers a stellar 2007 Brunello with<br />

incredible density, concentration and personality. It<br />

starts off soft, smooth and supple until those still-young<br />

tannins appear on the close, giving the wine a firm backbone.<br />

Black fruit, cherry, rum cake, plum, black pepper<br />

and cured meat characterize the bouquet. In all, this is a<br />

beautiful ensemble with layers of beauty and freshness.<br />

<strong>Wine</strong>bow. Cellar Selection. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $75<br />

95<br />

Tenimenti Angelini 2007 Val di Suga<br />

(Brunello di Montalcino). This attractive<br />

Brunello presents a wild, brambly side, with aromas<br />

of wild mushroom, forest floor, small berry and crème<br />

de cassis. It boasts a beautiful, deep color and plenty of<br />

concentration, with endnotes of spice, leather and dried<br />

tobacco leaf. The mouthfeel is solid, well defined and<br />

superbly structured. Vin Divino. —M.L.<br />

abv: NA Price: $61<br />

94<br />

Bonacchi 2007 Molino della Suga<br />

(Brunello di Montalcino). A huge difference<br />

from last vintage, this is soft, supple, dense and enduring,<br />

with loads of fruit intensity and a plush, spicy richness.<br />

Black fruit, rum cake, cherry liqueur and smoked<br />

bacon on the close. Modern, bold and very bright.<br />

Baum <strong>Wine</strong> Imports Inc. —M.L.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $NA<br />

94<br />

Caprili 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. This<br />

is an austere and sophisticated expression of<br />

Sangiovese Grosso, with dried tobacco and spice backed<br />

by prune and currant. The fruit is ripe and mature without<br />

being overtly jammy, chewy or too sweet. In fact,<br />

it presents a savory-sophisticated front with ample concentration<br />

and a polished texture. Good aging potential.<br />

Admiralty Beverage. Cellar Selection. —M.L.<br />

abv: 15% Price: $55<br />

94<br />

Castello Banfi 2007 Poggio alle Mura<br />

(Brunello di Montalcino). Named after one<br />

of the most beautiful stone castles in Europe, Poggio<br />

alle Mura is a dark and compelling wine that shows a<br />

clean quality, a fresh mouthfeel and excellent length.<br />

Beautiful fruit intensity with cherry, blackberry, spice,<br />

leather and tobacco describe the bouquet. Good aging<br />

potential. Banfi Vintners. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $82<br />

94<br />

Castello Romitorio 2007 Brunello di<br />

Montalcino. This is a lovely Brunello with<br />

black cherry, plum, smoke, bacon, leather and a drying<br />

touch of crushed mineral on the nose. It is rich and concentrated,<br />

with a slightly sweet-smelling bouquet. The<br />

mouthfeel is compact, tight and polished—but there is<br />

excellent length too. Vinifera Imports. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $65<br />

94<br />

Citille di Sopra 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />

Inky-dark concentration segues to<br />

bold berry notes and loads of dark, deep fruit: plum,<br />

prune, blackberry and rum cake. There are also pretty<br />

dustings of dry mineral and dried herb at the back. This<br />

12 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012<br />

is a bold Brunello with power, determination, structure<br />

and balance. It needs at least 10 years of cellar aging.<br />

Siena Imports. Cellar Selection. —M.L.<br />

abv: 15% Price: $60<br />

94<br />

Col d’Orcia 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />

For full review see page 4.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $63<br />

94<br />

Donatella Cinelli Colombini 2007 Brunello<br />

di Montalcino. This Brunello opens with an<br />

intense, dark garnet color and shows lush softness and<br />

ripe blackberry fruit with perfumed notes of blue flower,<br />

plum cake and sweet spice. The mouthfeel is characterized<br />

by firm structure and yielding tannins. Banville<br />

& Jones <strong>Wine</strong> Merchants. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $50<br />

94<br />

Fattoria Scopone 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />

A pleasurable, opulent wine with rich<br />

tones of cherry and sweet chocolate backed by dense<br />

concentration and extraction. Plush, ripe, modern, soft<br />

and dense; a real crowd-pleaser. Soft, thick texture with<br />

loads of spice, dark fruit and staying power. Superior<br />

<strong>Wine</strong>s LLC. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $50<br />

94<br />

Fornacina 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />

This Brunello offers bright aromas with lively<br />

cherry, cola, humus, dark spice and pipe tobacco, as<br />

well as savory tones of beef bresaola and even a touch of<br />

white peppercorn. Impressive complexity. Elegant and<br />

streamlined on the close. Villa Italia. Cellar Selection.<br />

—M.L.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $64<br />

94<br />

La Fortuna 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />

La Fortuna Brunello shows a distinctive nose<br />

with a vein of sweet spice that holds up the plump fruit.<br />

You’ll find rum cake, cinnamon bun, Christmas spice<br />

and chocolate-covered cherry. It’s soft, plush and rich<br />

on the finish, with a lingering note of sweetness that<br />

drives its cheerful personality. MHW, Ltd. —M.L.<br />

abv: 15% Price: $49<br />

94<br />

La Magia 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. La<br />

Magia Brunello is a brooding, masculine wine<br />

filled with tobacco smoke and cigar box. At the back<br />

are tones of dried fruit, blackberry preserves, crème de<br />

cassis and prune. It shows wonderful intensity and elegance<br />

with loads of personality. Spice, black pepper and<br />

bitter chocolate also appear on the long, silky finish. It<br />

promises to age well. BCI <strong>Wine</strong> and Beer. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $50<br />

94<br />

La Velona 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />

A bold, plump and soft expression of Brunello,<br />

with sweet berry fruit, chocolate fudge, cinnamon spice<br />

and marzipan. The wine’s appearance is dark and well<br />

extracted. Despite the grandeur of the nose, the mouthfeel<br />

is compact, tight and firm. Tutto Vino. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $NA<br />

94<br />

Máté 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. The<br />

ripe fruit element is perfectly contained and<br />

just short of seeming overdone or jammy. It’s soft and<br />

round, with loads of oak-driven spice, like cinnamon<br />

and ground clove, and plump tones of red cherry, black-<br />

berry and plum. What’s really nice is the freshness and<br />

overall supple texture. Vinilandia USA. —M.L.<br />

abv: 15% Price: $70<br />

94<br />

Molino di Sant’Antimo 2007 Brunello di<br />

Montalcino. Well stitched together with a<br />

broad, wide assembly of dark fruit, spice and cola-like<br />

aromas. All the wine’s elements sing loud as a single<br />

chorus; bold, plush, chewy. Ends with ripe fruit, rum<br />

cake, pipe tobacco and dark espresso bean. Firm, great<br />

length. Delectatio <strong>Wine</strong>s. Editors’ Choice. —M.L.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $40<br />

94<br />

Pietranera 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />

Opens with dark concentration and ripe berry<br />

fruit with layers of plum, blackberry, dark chocolate,<br />

pipe tobacco, cherry liqueur, cola and underbrush. It<br />

offers a wonderful 360-degree portrait of Sangiovese<br />

Grosso. Tight structure, integration and loads of fruity<br />

intensity. Drink after 2018. Soilair Selection. Cellar Selection.<br />

—M.L.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $45<br />

94<br />

Pieve Santa Restituta 2007 Sugarille<br />

(Brunello di Montalcino). Bold and elegant<br />

at the same time. Packs a powerful punch in a silk glove.<br />

Intense aromas of ripe fruit, spice, cherry liqueur, cola,<br />

dried sage and cigar box. The mouthfeel is pristine and<br />

structured, with a precise, tonic and streamlined impact.<br />

Terlato <strong>Wine</strong>s International. Cellar Selection.<br />

—M.L.<br />

abv: 15% Price: $190<br />

94<br />

Poggiarellino 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />

A nice surprise. Great density and richness<br />

with layers of dark fruit and spice. Thick concentration<br />

and a bold, confident presentation. Plush texture,<br />

length and density. Age 5–10 more years. Premier <strong>Wine</strong><br />

Co. —M.L.<br />

abv: 15% Price: $50<br />

94<br />

Poggio Antico 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />

A whiff of fresh flowers from a rose garden<br />

or a lavender field makes for a nice first impression. Beyond<br />

that is dark fruit, black cherry and crème de cassis.<br />

Shadings of lead pencil, leather and tobacco fill in<br />

the rear. This Brunello presents a soft, round mouthfeel<br />

with cherry flavors capped by tight structure. The Sorting<br />

Table. —M.L.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $79<br />

94<br />

Poggio il Castellare 2007 Brunello di<br />

Montalcino. Loads of balsam intensity with<br />

eucalyptus, ground ginger, cola, dried fruit and crème<br />

de cassis. This wine also adds a pretty floral note of red<br />

rose petal or potpourri that really steals the show. Loads<br />

of balance and complexity. Smooth, long finish, good<br />

length. Drink after 2015. Margate <strong>Wine</strong> & Spirit Company.<br />

—M.L.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $65<br />

94<br />

Tenuta di Sesta 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />

Tenuta di Sesta is run by a perfect father-mother-daughter-son<br />

team and is located in one<br />

of the least-traveled corners of Montalcino. The 2007<br />

Brunello delivers sweet oak tones that drive the initial<br />

bouquet and are soon followed by bright cherry, vanilla<br />

bean, sweet mocha and rum cake. Pretty balsam notes

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