BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast
BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast
BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast
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Clay McLachlan<br />
2 ITALY<br />
29 FRANCE<br />
31 SPAIN<br />
34 OTHER OLD WORLD<br />
35 SOUTH AFRICA<br />
38 AUSTRALIA<br />
41 ARGENTINA<br />
46 CALIFORNIA<br />
59 WASHINGTON<br />
63 SPIRITS<br />
65 BEER<br />
FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND<br />
REVIEWS, VISIT<br />
<strong>BUYING</strong><strong>GUIDE</strong>.WINEMAG.COM<br />
<strong>BUYING</strong> <strong>GUIDE</strong><br />
MAY 2012<br />
Freshly-harvested Brunello grapes, a clone of<br />
Sangiovese planted in Montalcino and used to produce<br />
the region’s renowned wine, from Col d’Orcia’s vineyard.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>Mag.com | 1
ITALY<br />
THE 95-POINT 2007 VINTAGE IN BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO<br />
The 2007 vintage of Brunello di Montalcino is a lovely expression of<br />
variety and territory—a true celebration of this austere yet sophisticated<br />
red wine from southern Tuscany. As Italian Editor for <strong>Wine</strong><br />
<strong>Enthusiast</strong> Magazine, I was among the first to blind taste through the new<br />
vintage and found it to be one of the most exciting vintages since the start<br />
of the millennium.<br />
Following an intense tasting of some 250 wines at the local vintners’ association<br />
headquarters in Montalcino, I scored the 2007 vintage 95 points<br />
on our 100-point scale. The 2006 vintage earned 93 points last year, and<br />
both vintages were given a maximum five stars by the Consorzio del Vino<br />
Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
So what sets 2007 apart? The strong cola or menthol-like notes of licorice,<br />
dried ginger, cured meat and white pepper, or as the Italians refer to<br />
these characteristics, note balsamiche. These delicate and compelling aromas<br />
are unique to Sangiovese. It’s a pleasure to find such harmony and consistency<br />
in a single vintage.<br />
TUSCANY<br />
2007 BRUNELLO<br />
97<br />
Capanna 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Capanna’s offering in 2007 is extremely bold,<br />
dark and opulent. Loads of aromatic momentum in the<br />
form of blackberry, cherry liqueur, spice, leather, tobacco,<br />
rum cake, cinnamon, vanilla bean and bitter chocolate<br />
characterize the bouquet. The wine also shows a<br />
soft, ripe, generous texture, yet remains well-contained<br />
and balanced. Masciarelli <strong>Wine</strong> Co. Cellar Selection.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $55<br />
97<br />
Casanova di Neri 2007 Tenuta Nuova<br />
(Brunello di Montalcino). Gorgeous, opulent<br />
and rich, Tenuta Nuova is an unforgettable wine.<br />
It has body, power, persistence and loads of plush personality.<br />
It is layered with chocolate, cherry, blackberry,<br />
spice, leather and savory notes. There’s a deep mineral<br />
layer as well. Compelling and lovely. Dalla Terra <strong>Wine</strong>ry<br />
Direct. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $79<br />
97<br />
Luce della Vite 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Luce della Vite opens with an opulent,<br />
generous style and is packed with black cherry, black<br />
currant, cola, leather and pipe tobacco. This is a plush,<br />
rich and deeply textured wine, with plenty of intensity<br />
and staying power. It shows dense tannins with a touch<br />
of youthful astringency. Age 10 more years. Folio Fine<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> Partners. Cellar Selection. —M.L.<br />
abv: NA Price: $93<br />
96<br />
Corte Pavone 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
For full review see page 3. Cellar Selection.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $75<br />
2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2012<br />
95<br />
Casanova di Neri 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
This 2007 Brunello is a big, opulent<br />
pleasure bomb with lavish layers, loaded thickly on top<br />
of each other: Chocolate fudge, dark cherry, blackberry<br />
preserves, rum cake, prune, exotic spice, pipe tobacco,<br />
cola, humus and leather. It shows huge personality, intensity<br />
and staying power, too. All that density is backed<br />
by solid tannins and a steady firmness. Hold 10–15<br />
years. Dalla Terra <strong>Wine</strong>ry Direct. Editors’ Choice.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $50<br />
95<br />
Castelgiocondo 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
From Tuscany’s celebrated Frescobaldi<br />
wine family, Brunello Castelgiocondo opens with<br />
dark, inky concentration and bold aromas of pressed<br />
rose, black cherry, exotic spice, leather and unsweetened<br />
chocolate. It is beautifully put together, with ample<br />
intensity, balance, complexity and silkiness on the<br />
finish. Folio Fine <strong>Wine</strong> Partners. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $75<br />
95<br />
La Gerla 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Ripe fruit and red cherry, with spice, cinnamon<br />
and wood shop aromas, characterize the youthful<br />
bouquet of La Gerla’s latest Brunello. But there’s also<br />
a pretty mineral tone that gives the nose backbone and<br />
definition. It is delicate and feminine in the mouth, with<br />
elegant flavors of wild berry and blue flower that will<br />
surely grow in intensity as the wine evolves. Give it 10<br />
more years. Southern <strong>Wine</strong> and Spirits. Cellar Selection.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $50<br />
95<br />
La Mannella 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
A gorgeous Brunello, with bountiful and<br />
intense aromas of red fruit, blackberry, spice, leather<br />
and cedar wood that go on and on. The wine is pristine,<br />
chiseled and sharp—but bold and generous at the same<br />
The 2006 vintage was characterized by higher acidity and long aging potential.<br />
But overall, the wines are sharper, linear and more austere than in<br />
2007. On the other hand, the 2007 vintage is soft, round and opulent, and<br />
shows incredible aromatic intensity. Yet it still delivers firm structure and<br />
enough power for aging. Sangiovese Grosso is a naturally acidic variety,<br />
with freshness that’s very well balanced in 2007.<br />
The fruit component in this vintage is rich with black currant and wild<br />
berry. While past vintages have been dominated by bold cherry, the 2007<br />
is more nuanced. These wines are ready to drink sooner than is typical for<br />
the wines of the region, but they also show excellent aging potential because<br />
of their firm, velvety structures. The ripeness of their tannins makes<br />
them generous and approachable.<br />
Most estates performed consistently well in 2006 and 2007, though there<br />
was more variability in 2006. The 2007 vintage, with its cool summer and<br />
dry conditions, showed positive results across the Montalcino area, even in<br />
the coolest, north-facing subzones. —Monica Larner<br />
time. There’s a touch of bitter almond followed by softer<br />
tones of red berry and spice. Casa Torelli. Editors’<br />
Choice. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $47<br />
95<br />
Padelletti 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Here’s a bright and bold Brunello with loads of<br />
ripe cherry, inky density and a beautifully polished feel<br />
with crushed mineral and wet river stone elements. It’s<br />
a truly beautiful wine with stunning purity and intensity.<br />
All elements are balanced—from the fruit, to the<br />
spice, to the ethereal balsam notes. The mouthfeel is<br />
lively and intense and the finish is packed with berry,<br />
almond and savory persistence. Age 10–15 years. J.D.<br />
Cellars Inc. Cellar Selection. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $60<br />
95<br />
Pieve Santa Restituta 2007 Rennina<br />
(Brunello di Montalcino). Put this beautiful<br />
Brunello in your cellar for at least 10–15 more years.<br />
Rennina opens with bold oak and cherry tones (that<br />
need more time to integrate), followed by plump, rich<br />
blackberry flavors, chocolate, leather and dark spice. It’s<br />
a wine characterized by impressive density and opulence.<br />
Terlato <strong>Wine</strong>s International. Cellar Selection.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $175<br />
95<br />
Podere Brizio 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
A beautifully composed and well-constructed<br />
Brunello, with bright berry tones of cassis and cherry<br />
backed by ethereal notes of root beer and eucalyptus.<br />
The wine shows a clean, crisp and structured sensation<br />
in the mouth—with a touch of bitter almond on the<br />
Continued on Page 12
The <strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Enthusiast</strong><br />
Buying Guide<br />
The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release<br />
and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated<br />
by <strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Enthusiast</strong> Magazine’s editors and other qualified<br />
tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include<br />
Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director<br />
Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa,<br />
Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Contributing Editor<br />
Michael Schachner and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New<br />
York, European Editor Roger Voss in Bordeaux, Italian Editor<br />
Monica Larner in Rome, California Editor Steve Heimoff in<br />
Oakland, Contributing Editor Paul Gregutt in Seattle and<br />
Contributing Editor Virginie Boone in Santa Rosa.<br />
If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s<br />
initials appear following the note. When no initials appear<br />
following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or<br />
more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect the input<br />
of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits Reviews are<br />
by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo.<br />
Each review contains a score, the full name of the product,<br />
its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by<br />
the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content<br />
cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed.<br />
Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated.<br />
TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS<br />
All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed<br />
blind unless otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in<br />
peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in<br />
assigning scores. When possible, products considered flawed or<br />
uncustomary are retasted.<br />
ABOUT THE SCORES<br />
Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product.<br />
Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying<br />
tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics.<br />
Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality.<br />
Superb 94–97: A great achievement.<br />
Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended.<br />
Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended.<br />
Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption;<br />
often good value.<br />
Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, lesscritical<br />
circumstances.<br />
Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80<br />
points) are not reviewed.<br />
SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS<br />
Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent<br />
quality at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any<br />
price with unique qualities that merit special attention.<br />
Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible<br />
and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to<br />
reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation<br />
does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but<br />
that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In<br />
general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated.<br />
Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in<br />
relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae<br />
for determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are<br />
generally priced at $15 or less.<br />
SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW<br />
Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing<br />
location as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.<br />
com/contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting<br />
& Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@<br />
wineenthusiast.net. There is no charge for submitting<br />
products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted<br />
for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted<br />
will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All<br />
samples must be accompanied by the appropriate submission<br />
forms, which may be downloaded from our Web site.<br />
LABELS<br />
Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given<br />
the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and<br />
printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on<br />
label purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax<br />
866.896.8786; or email dvalenza@wineenthusiast.net.<br />
Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at<br />
buyingguide.winemag.com<br />
Corte Pavone 2007 Brunello di Montalci-<br />
96 no. This dark Brunello opens with thick concentration<br />
and balsam notes of cola, humus and eucalyptus.<br />
Despite the thick extraction, the berry aromas<br />
are delicate, with lingering wild raspberry and forest<br />
fruit. The wine shows a nice juxtaposition between its<br />
bold, masculine side and an elegant feminine one. The<br />
mouthfeel is bold, plush and powerful. HeyDay Corporation.<br />
Cellar Selection. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $75<br />
96<br />
Marimar Estate 2008 La Masía Don<br />
Miguel Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River<br />
Valley). Absolutely stunning, a testament to the<br />
vintage, the terroir and to the winemaker’s impeccable<br />
hand. It’s delicious beyond description, offering wave<br />
after wave of cherry pie, blackberry confit, red currant,<br />
persimmon and cola flavors, finished with exciting<br />
spices. Already throwing sediment, it’s so balanced<br />
in acids and tannins that it’s gorgeous now, but should<br />
develop effortlessly over the next six years at the very<br />
least. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.7% Price: $39<br />
95<br />
Dunham 2007 XIII Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Columbia Valley). Tasted at more than four<br />
years of age, this is a standout effort in a series that dates<br />
back to the mid-1990s. A complex nose greets you with<br />
a floral, dusty tickle, leading into a fruit-packed wine,<br />
with blueberry and black cherry most evident. Notes of<br />
black olive and graphite come through on the long finish,<br />
with exceptional grip and polish. Editors’ Choice.<br />
—P.G.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $45<br />
95<br />
Longoria 2009 Fe Ciega Vineyard Pinot<br />
Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). A top-rank Pinot Noir,<br />
dry, silky and elegant, with moderate alcohol despite<br />
great richness. The flavors of cherries, cola, plums and<br />
herbs are simply delicious, while the structure displays<br />
great integrity of acids and tannins. A bit tight now in<br />
youth, it should unfold over the next eight years. If you<br />
pop the cork now, give it a few hours of airing. Cellar<br />
Selection. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.2% Price: $48<br />
95<br />
Venge 2009 Bone Ash Vineyard Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Venge’s superb<br />
2008 Bone Ash was a tough act to follow, but this<br />
2009 pulls it off. Made entirely from Cabernet and aged<br />
for nearly two years in mostly new French oak, it shows<br />
massively rich flavors of blackberries, cassis and sweet<br />
buttered toast, with a lush, smooth mouthfeel, courtesy<br />
of ripe, sweet tannins. So easy to like, and an ideal partner<br />
to a perfectly grilled steak. Drink now and over the<br />
next six years. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.9% Price: $80<br />
94<br />
Chronicle 2009 Cerise Vineyard Pinot<br />
Noir (Anderson Valley). One sip is all it takes<br />
to know this is a terrific Pinot Noir. It’s dry, silky and<br />
complex, and not only that, it will develop bottle nuance<br />
over the next six years. Rich and flamboyant in cherry<br />
pie filling, persimmon and mushu-plum sauce flavors,<br />
yet layered with earthy, foresty notes of mushrooms, soy<br />
sauce and balsam. You can drink it now, but give it an<br />
hour or two of decanting. Cellar Selection. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $60<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>Mag.com | 3
94<br />
Coghlan 2009 Diopside Pinot Noir (Sta.<br />
Rita Hills). While the texture of this Pinot<br />
is silky and light, it’s dramatic in flavor. The cherries,<br />
plums, pomegranates and persimmons are packed together<br />
into a dense core of taste, all spiced up with cinnamon,<br />
cloves and anise. Feels dramatic and complex,<br />
but young and fresh in acids and tannins. Give it 5–6<br />
years. Cellar Selection. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $40<br />
94<br />
Col d’Orcia 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Here is a particularly impressive wine from one<br />
of Montalcino’s top estates. The wine opens with ethereal<br />
balsam notes of eucalyptus, humus, dried fruit and<br />
dried mint. Beyond those elegant tones are sturdier layers<br />
of cured meat and savory spice. It shows bold concentration,<br />
thick power and firmness on the close, with<br />
a drying mineral finish. Let it age five more years. Palm<br />
Bay International. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $63<br />
94<br />
Dunham 2008 Lewis Vineyard Syrah (Columbia<br />
Valley). The artist label Syrah is usually<br />
Dunham’s best, as this vineyard is well-established<br />
as one of the premier sites in Washington for Syrah.<br />
Scents of violets and black cherry introduce a dense,<br />
hard, tightly wound, muscular effort that needs a generous<br />
amount of breathing time. It rolls through the palate<br />
on a train of well-defined fruit, spice and chocolate,<br />
all nicely integrated. Supple and long. Cellar Selection.<br />
—P.G.<br />
abv: NA Price: $75<br />
4 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012<br />
94<br />
Native 9 2009 Rancho Ontiveros Vineyards<br />
Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). A<br />
lovely Pinot, dry, crisp and silky, with ripe raspberry,<br />
strawberry and cherry fruit flavors, grounded by notes<br />
of grilled mushrooms, exotic spices and forest undergrowth.<br />
Sweetly delicious now, it should blossom over<br />
the next six years. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $64<br />
94<br />
Volker Eisele Family Estate 2008 Alexander<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley).<br />
Made from 100% Cabernet, this is a worthy followup<br />
to the extraordinary 2006 and 2007 vintages. Feels fine<br />
in the mouth, with rich tannins and dry, elegant flavors<br />
of blackberries, cassis, dark chocolate and French oak.<br />
The tannins are pure Napa, smooth and complex. Not<br />
ready to drink now, but give it a good six years, and it<br />
could develop over the next fifteen. Cellar Selection.<br />
—S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $125<br />
93<br />
Flora Springs 2009 Hillside Reserve Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (Rutherford). So softly<br />
delicious, it’s probably not an ager, but what a terrific<br />
wine to drink now and over the next few years. Really<br />
luscious, showing modern-style ripe blackberry, black<br />
cherry, cassis and mocha flavors that sink deep and last<br />
long into the finish. The tannins and overall structure<br />
lift it into classy elegance. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.2% Price: $100<br />
93<br />
Gundlach Bundschu 2009 Heritage<br />
Selection Estate Pinot Noir (Sonoma<br />
Coast). This is the most expensive Pinot Noir from<br />
Gundlach Bundschu in many years, maybe ever, but it’s<br />
also easily their best. It’s absolutely delicious in cherries,<br />
pomegranates and spices, with a wonderful earthiness<br />
that grounds it. So silky and complex, so rewarding to<br />
drink now. Great to see this veteran winery coming out<br />
with a wine this fine. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $48<br />
93<br />
Marimar Estate 2010 Acero Don Miguel<br />
Vineyard Unoaked Chardonnay (Russian<br />
River Valley). It’s unbelievable that this Chardonnay is<br />
unoaked, it’s so incredibly rich and creamy. Just packed<br />
with layers of tropical fruits, peaches, Asian pears and<br />
oatmeal cookies. All that butter and cream must be<br />
from the malolactic fermentation and aging on the lees.<br />
One of the best unoaked Chardonnays ever. Editors’<br />
Choice. —S.H.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $29<br />
93<br />
Marimar Estate 2008 Earthquake Block<br />
Don Miguel Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian<br />
River Valley). This block selection from the estate<br />
vineyard is planted to the old Pommard clone. It’s an<br />
elegantly dry wine, dense in black and red cherry fruit,<br />
with hints of cola, wild herbs and spices. Feels very<br />
fine and silky in the mouth, and gets better with airing.<br />
Drink now and over the next six years. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $47
93<br />
Marimar Estate 2008 Stony Block Don<br />
Miguel Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River<br />
Valley). The winery has been producing more and<br />
more low-production block bottlings from their estate<br />
vineyard. This one is entirely from the Dijon clone 115.<br />
It’s soft, sweet and utterly captivating, a feminine wine<br />
of enormous charm, with raspberry, cola and pomegranate<br />
flavors, enhanced, of course, by smoky new oak. The<br />
acidity is fine, and will protect the wine as it develops<br />
over the next six years. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.7% Price: $47<br />
93<br />
Penfolds 2008 RWT Shiraz (Barossa Valley).<br />
Full-bodied and richly textured, with Penfolds’<br />
hallmark weight and structure on full display, the<br />
2008 RWT shows a touch of the vintage’s characteristic<br />
warmth, but only a touch. The cassis and blackberry<br />
fruit is plush, velvety and superripe, ending with hints<br />
of tobacco, mint and vanilla. It should drink well for at<br />
least a decade. Treasury <strong>Wine</strong> Estates. —J.C.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $150<br />
93<br />
Poet’s Leap 2010 Riesling (Columbia<br />
Valley). From an especially cool vintage that<br />
favored acidity and citrus, this Poet’s Leap is a pretty<br />
wine, vibrant and full across the palate, with a mix of<br />
apple and peach flavors. Clean and balanced, it adds nuances<br />
of tea and finally a hint of honey in the extended<br />
finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.<br />
abv: 12.9% Price: $20<br />
93<br />
Quady 2010 Essensia Orange Muscat<br />
(California). Absolutely delicious, an addictive<br />
dessert wine. Brisk in acidity and clean in the mouth, if<br />
offers fabulously sweet flavors of oranges, vanilla, honey<br />
and buttered toast. Drink it with cheesecake and go to<br />
heaven. —S.H.<br />
abv: 15.4% Price: $25<br />
93<br />
Rodney Strong 2008 Symmetry Meritage<br />
(Alexander Valley). Symmetry is Rodney<br />
Strong’s most important red wine, the one they pull out<br />
all the stops on. It’s usually a hit, and so is this 2008,<br />
which is a blend of all five Bordeaux red varieties, but<br />
primarily on Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s extraordinarily<br />
rich in blackberries, plums, blueberries and cassis, with<br />
a surprising meatiness, like beef tartare. The mouthfeel<br />
is very soft, suggesting that this wine’s best days are now.<br />
—S.H.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $55<br />
93<br />
Wakefield Estate 2006 St. Andrews Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (Clare Valley). A perennial<br />
favorite, Wakefield’s St. Andrews bottling shows how<br />
good certain parts of Clare can be for Cabernet Sauvignon.<br />
The 2006 displays a masterful blend of cedar,<br />
chocolate, mocha, cassis, baking spices and leather, all<br />
wrapped in an elegant coat of dusty but supple tannins.<br />
Drink 2015–2025. American <strong>Wine</strong> Distributors. Cellar<br />
Selection. —J.C.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $50<br />
92<br />
Atlas Peak 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Mount Veeder). Good for Atlas Peak for<br />
holding this Cabernet for more than five years before<br />
releasing it. It’s still tannic and young, with intense<br />
blackberry, blueberry and cassis flavors that are dry and<br />
spicy. Showing an elegant mouthfeel, it needs a little<br />
more time. Hold until 2015, but it could develop over<br />
the next decade. Cellar Selection. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.6% Price: $86<br />
92<br />
Dunham 2008 Lewis Vineyard Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Tasty and<br />
toasty, young and compact, this is a wine to cellar for a<br />
few more years at least. The bright fruit flavors run from<br />
berry to Bing cherry, not as dark as in some years, but vibrant<br />
and crisp. The new oak is not yet fully integrated,<br />
so give it some extra bottle age for optimal enjoyment.<br />
Cellar Selection. —P.G.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $75<br />
92<br />
Fess Parker 2009 Rodney’s Vineyard<br />
Syrah (Santa Barbara County). Rich and<br />
ripe in blackberry, cassis and smoked meat flavors, this<br />
big, bold Syrah is fairly high in alcohol, but wears it well.<br />
It has a full-bodied, warm mouthfeel, and is best enjoyed<br />
over the next year or two. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.9% Price: $49<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>Mag.com | 5
92<br />
Finca Flichman 2008 Dedicado (Mendoza).<br />
Dense, earthy and rich upfront, with bold<br />
black plum and berry flavors that hit the right chords.<br />
Feels slick, deep and polished, with blackberry, cassis,<br />
coffee and coconut flavors that feed into a simmering<br />
finish that runs for miles. An excellent blend of Cab,<br />
Malbec and Syrah to drink now and over the next five<br />
years. Evaton, Inc. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $30<br />
92<br />
Flora Springs 2009 Trilogy (Napa Valley).<br />
A lovely wine, soft and charming, but far<br />
from simple. Although it has complex layers of cherries,<br />
blackberries, cassis and cedar, it also shows a fine<br />
structure of ripe, smooth tannins and supporting acidity.<br />
Drink now–2015 while it’s fresh and forward. —S.H.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $65<br />
92<br />
John Tyler 2008 Bacigalupi Vineyard Pinot<br />
Noir (Russian River Valley). A wonderful<br />
wine that’s rich and delicious. The raspberry and<br />
cherry fruit is dusted with exotic spices and finished<br />
with sweet, smoky oak. With its silky texture and good<br />
acidity, it’s a brilliant evocation of a warm part of the<br />
valley. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $45<br />
6 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012<br />
92<br />
Marimar Estate 2010 Don Miguel Vineyard<br />
Albariño (Russian River Valley).<br />
Marimar’s first Albariño is unquestionably one of the<br />
best ever to hail from California. Made without oak, it’s<br />
modest in alcohol, giving it a light, transparent mouthfeel<br />
that transmits pure, bone dry flavors of peaches,<br />
grapefruits and guava, with a touch of Sauvignon Blanclike<br />
gooseberry and enough acidity to make the palate<br />
whistle. A real beauty, especially with Asian fusion fare.<br />
—S.H.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $32<br />
92<br />
Marimar Estate 2009 La Masía Don<br />
Miguel Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian<br />
River Valley). Is that a touch of botrytis on the nose?<br />
Or does that apricot come from the Rued clone of Chardonnay?<br />
Either way, this dry wine offers vastly complex<br />
layers of fruits, spices, minerals, white flowers and<br />
smoky new oak. It’s exotic, a Chardonnay that marches<br />
to a different beat and demands some understanding on<br />
the part of the taster. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.3% Price: $35<br />
92<br />
Peter Lehmann 2006 Mentor Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (Barossa). Full bodied and richly<br />
tannic, Lehmann’s 2006 Mentor is dark, chocolaty<br />
and intense, with further nuances of cassis and cigar<br />
box. The finish is chewy and juicy, simultaneously drying<br />
and mouthwatering. Drink 2015–2023. Hess Collection.<br />
—J.C.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $38<br />
92<br />
Quady 2010 Elysium Black Muscat (California).<br />
With nearly 20% residual sugar, this<br />
wine is enormously sweet in honey and black cherry flavors,<br />
balanced by brilliant acidity. It’s delicious and savory<br />
and so easy to like. For something unusual, try with<br />
a runny cheese, like a soft Gorgonzola. —S.H.<br />
abv: 15.1% Price: $21<br />
92<br />
Royal Tokaji 2007 Red Label Aszú 5 Puttonyos<br />
(Tokaji). Ebulliently floral on the nose,<br />
this decadently creamy Tokaji bursts with characteristic<br />
honey, peach preserve and dried fig sweetness. A streak<br />
of citrusy acidity adds balance, while subtle hints of caramelized<br />
sugar and tea leaves add twists to the long,<br />
honey-kissed finish. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —A.I.<br />
abv: 11.5% Price: $43/500 ml<br />
91<br />
Clone 7 2008 Reserve Cuvée Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Shows all the hallmarks<br />
of a modern Napa wine of high quality. Although<br />
it’s quite dry, it’s rich in crushed ripe blackberries, in<br />
good allignment with smoky new oak. The tannins are<br />
smooth and complex, the acidity just fine. Really a lovely<br />
bottle of red wine, although a touch of superripeness<br />
may limit ageability. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $20
91<br />
Coghlan 2009 Tourmaline Grenache<br />
Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley). This is a very<br />
rich, creamy wine. Fermented in stainless steel, the<br />
creaminess must come from lees aging. The flavors of<br />
orange and apricot jam and zesty lemon tart are dominant,<br />
but vital acidity also stars, giving the finish a spicy<br />
punch. —S.H.<br />
abv: 13.6% Price: $24<br />
91<br />
Joseph Drouhin 2009 Pommard. A solid<br />
wine, with plum skin and dry tannin textures. It<br />
does have the ripe fruit of 2009, attractive red fruits and<br />
juicy acidity. But it needs aging over at least three years<br />
to show its fruitiness. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $50<br />
91<br />
Kilikanoon 2009 Killerman’s Run Shiraz<br />
(South Australia). A terrific value, the 2009<br />
Killerman’s Run Shiraz is full bodied, creamy in texture<br />
and endowed with a long, velvety finish. The dark berryblack<br />
cherry fruit is big, but balanced by notes of cedar,<br />
mocha, chocolate and vanilla. Drink it over the next few<br />
years. Old Bridge Cellars. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $20<br />
91<br />
Rodney Strong 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir<br />
(Russian River Valley). A lovely restaurantstyle<br />
Pinot Noir, showing lots of class and elegance, yet<br />
with enough modesty to step aside and let the food star.<br />
Dry and silky, it shows raspberry, cherry, red currant<br />
and cola flavors, accented with sweet, smoky oak. Suggested<br />
pairings include steak, lamb chops and grilled ahi<br />
tuna. —S.H.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $40<br />
91<br />
Royal Tokaji 2009 Mád Cuvée Late Harvest<br />
(Tokaji). For $20, this bargain basement<br />
Tokaji is pretty unbelievable. Abundantly floral and<br />
honeyed on the nose, it’s deeply concentrated on the<br />
palate, with layers of luscious figs and peaches, accented<br />
by lanolin and beeswax. Creamy and unctuous on the<br />
tongue, yet clean and fresh on the finish, with orangeinflected<br />
acidity that lingers. Wilson Daniels Ltd. Editor’s<br />
Choice. —A.I.<br />
abv: 9.5% Price: $20/375 ml<br />
90<br />
Atlas Peak 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Napa Valley). Fruit stars in this young, rich<br />
Cabernet. It’s as good as young, drink-me-now Napa<br />
Cab gets, offering waves of blackberries, cherries,<br />
plums, sweet oak and spices that go on and on into long<br />
finish. The tannins are perfectly ripe, the acidity fine<br />
and brisk. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.9% Price: $35<br />
90<br />
Buehler 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa<br />
Valley). Good price for a Napa Valley Cabernet<br />
this distinguished. It’s rich and satisfying in blackberry,<br />
black currant and blueberry fruit, with a lovely coat of<br />
smoky oak. Shows lots of complexity, and the finish is<br />
dry and spicy. Could go the distance, but just to be safe,<br />
drink over the next six years. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.6% Price: $25<br />
90<br />
Finca La Mata 2009 Ribera del Duero.<br />
Packed tight with power and minty, earthy berry<br />
aromas that come with a dry dustiness. Feels ripe<br />
and proper, with a slight tannic grab and full but fresh<br />
flavors of wild berry, cassis, cocoa and oak. On the finish,<br />
chocolate and dry spice flavors take over, yielding<br />
a pleasant, complete whole. Drink now through 2015.<br />
Grapes of Spain. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $22<br />
90<br />
Flora Springs 2010 Barrel Fermented<br />
Chardonnay (Napa Valley). This bottling<br />
has been variable over the decades, but this 2010 shows<br />
fine form, a good sign coming on the heels of the excellent<br />
2009. It’s richly oaked and flashy in pineapple jam,<br />
buttered toast and creamy, yeasty flavors. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $30<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>Mag.com | 7
90<br />
Gundlach Bundschu 2009 Estate Vineyard<br />
Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Ripe<br />
fruit and new oak combine for lush, complex flavors<br />
in this dramatic young Pinot Noir. It shows real flair in<br />
the raspberry, cherry and cola flavors, with vanilla and<br />
buttered cinnamon toast from aging in French barrels.<br />
Easy to like now for its silky texture and long, pure spicy<br />
finish. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.4% Price: $34<br />
90<br />
Joseph Drouhin 2009 Côte de Beaune-<br />
Villages. A wine that reveals its rich, jammy<br />
fruit slowly. When it arrives, the fruit is soft and generous,<br />
with strawberry jam and red plum flavors. It also<br />
has intense fresh acidity, a dry tannic core and aging potential.<br />
Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $24<br />
90<br />
Occasio 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Livermore Valley). Occasio has made a restrained<br />
and elegant Cabernet, alluring in its cola<br />
spice—almost sarsaparilla—aromas. Then the wine<br />
delves into dusty red and black fruit with ample structure,<br />
and a vein of minerality cradled into one delicious<br />
package. —V.B.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $36<br />
8 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012<br />
90<br />
Penley Estate 2009 Phoenix Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (Coonawarra). Penley’s 2009<br />
Phoenix offers classic cassis fruit, shored up by hints of<br />
mocha, vanilla and menthol. It’s medium to full bodied,<br />
powerful yet elegant, with tannins that are firm but not<br />
unapproachable. Drink now–2020. Old Bridge Cellars.<br />
Editors’ Choice. —J.C.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $20<br />
90<br />
Rodney Strong 2008 Reserve Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). Here’s a<br />
fruity, soft, flamboyant Cabernet, packed with plum,<br />
blackberry, black currant, licorice, dark chocolate and<br />
spicy oak flavors. Delicious and savory, it’s probably<br />
showing its best now, so drink up. —S.H.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $45<br />
90<br />
Rubissow 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Mount Veeder). Shows the richness of<br />
Mount Veeder fruit and also the Rubissow style, which<br />
emphasizes massively extracted fruit. Just overwhelms<br />
with jammy blackberries, cherries, mocha, licorice and<br />
vanilla. The tannins are polished and pretty, being firm<br />
yet soft at the same time. Give it a decant and drink<br />
now. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $50<br />
90<br />
Salentein 2010 Reserve Malbec (Uco Valley).<br />
Compact, concentrated and clean, with all<br />
its components in place. The bouquet is dark with charcoal,<br />
but bright with berry fruit aromas. The mouthfeel<br />
is comfortable and balanced, with sweet berry flavors<br />
offset by mild spice and proper oak. Soft tannins define<br />
the finish; a fine Malbec that doesn’t overdo it. Palm<br />
Bay International. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $19<br />
90<br />
Spice Route 2009 Pinotage (Swartland).<br />
A forward, oak-inspired character leads the<br />
nose with scents of vanilla and soft toast, but is supported<br />
by the solid fruit core of blueberry, mulled boysenberry<br />
and black plum guts. Attractive and rich in the<br />
mouth, with a firm but accessible structure and lifting<br />
acidity. Drink now–2015. Vineyard Brands. —L.B.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $23<br />
90<br />
Stonegate 2010 Chardonnay (Napa Valley).<br />
Good price for a Napa Chardonnay this<br />
rich and balanced. It’s enormously ripe in pineapples,<br />
oranges and golden mangoes, but grounded by zesty<br />
acidity and a minerality that comes from the soil. Editors’<br />
Choice. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $25
89<br />
Darcie Kent Vineyards 2008 Madden<br />
Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon (Livermore<br />
Valley). Darcie Kent really nails this Cab out of John<br />
Madden’s Ranch. Pungently bold and moody, intensely<br />
herbal with green pepper and olive, wrapped within<br />
a wall of black pepper that lingers. Pair it with pepper<br />
steak. —V.B.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $24<br />
89<br />
Joseph Drouhin 2009 Chorey-les-<br />
Beaune. From its situation on the plain outside<br />
Beaune, Chorey is often overlooked. A wine like<br />
this, ripe and smooth, full of red fruit, offers a deliciously<br />
juicy drink and represents a great value in red Burgundy.<br />
Drink now, or keep for two years. Dreyfus, Ashby<br />
& Co. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $25<br />
88<br />
Fazeli Cellars 2008 Khayyam Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (California). From Temeculabased<br />
producer Fazeli, this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
features a lofty nose that’s quite herbal, drifting into eucalyptus<br />
land—and tasting of cranberry. Velvety tannins.<br />
—V.B.<br />
abv: 15.2% Price: $44<br />
88<br />
Fazeli Cellars 2008 Yalda (Temecula Valley).<br />
This newish producer pays honor to its<br />
Persian roots with Yalda, a Rhône-style blend of 41%<br />
Shiraz, 26% Mourvedre, 25% Grenache and 8% Cinsault<br />
that’s intense, coated like chocolate-strawberry<br />
jam, tobacco, leather and earth with a subtext of cheese<br />
rind. This wine definitely has character. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.3% Price: $48<br />
88<br />
Lola Kay 2010 Proprietary Red <strong>Wine</strong><br />
(Napa Valley). This is from Rubissow, and it’s<br />
a nice wine for the price. Essentially a Bordeaux blend<br />
with a splash of Syrah, it’s rich and satisfying in blackberry,<br />
cassis, mocha, bacon and pepper flavors, with a<br />
coating of sweet oak. Lovely now with anything from a<br />
nice steak to a beef burrito. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.2% Price: $20<br />
87<br />
Darcie Kent Vineyards 2010 DeMayo<br />
Vineyard Chardonnay (Livermore Valley).<br />
This is a big, barrel-aged Chardonnay resplendent in<br />
caramel and honey, although it turns a bit bi-polar on<br />
the mid-palate, where it shows off lean minerality. A yin<br />
and yang wine, with a slight burn on the finish. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $30<br />
87<br />
Darcie Kent Vineyards 2009 Crown Block<br />
Merlot (Livermore Valley). A dark, plummy<br />
Livermore Valley Merlot that reminds one of herbencrusted<br />
roasted meats, and would be a good wine<br />
to pair with such a feast. Full-bodied and lush, with a<br />
smoky, oaky finish and cedar lurking throughout. —V.B.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $35<br />
86<br />
Lola Kay 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa<br />
Valley). Lots of ripe, forward citrus, tropical<br />
fruit, melon and peach flavors in this slightly sweet Sauvignon<br />
Blanc. A bit of oak brings a nice smoky creaminess.<br />
More controversial is the green, gooseberry tartness<br />
that will divide wine lovers into pro and con. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $16<br />
85<br />
Perry Creek 2009 Zinman Zinfandel (El<br />
Dorado). Perry Creek’s popular, well-priced<br />
Zinman shows off leathery, cola spice and blackberry<br />
flavors and fruit that’s just at the precipice between ripe<br />
and overripe nice structure. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.9% Price: $14<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>Mag.com | 9
84<br />
Campus Oaks 2008 Old Vine Zinfandel<br />
(Lodi). This old-vine Lodi Zin features caramel,<br />
vanilla and cherry notes. Most unusually, it’s blended<br />
with tiny amounts of Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc<br />
and is fairly light bodied and sweet on the finish. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $16<br />
95<br />
SPIRITS<br />
Luna Nueva Ultra Premium<br />
Limited Edition Tequila Reposado<br />
(Mexico; LCG International,<br />
Medina, OH). On the dessert-like side,<br />
this limited edition Tequila has a light<br />
gold cast and rich crème brûlée aromas.<br />
Silky, rich and beautiful, with soft, sweet<br />
butterscotchy notes and just enough peppery<br />
tingle to brace up the spirit, consider<br />
this as a sipping Tequila after dinner.<br />
Aged in French and American oak casks<br />
for at least five months.<br />
abv: 40% Price: $37<br />
92<br />
Luna Nueva 2012 The<br />
Mayan Prophecy Edicion<br />
Especial Tequila Reposado (Mexico;<br />
LCG International, Medina, OH).<br />
On the nose and palate, expect lots of<br />
vanilla, punctuated with a gentle, peppery<br />
note and a touch of oaky sweetness. Well<br />
balanced. The attractive frosted glass bottle<br />
with colorful Mayan graphic art is a<br />
nice touch, too.<br />
abv: 40% Price: $45<br />
10 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012<br />
90<br />
BEER<br />
Port City Optimal Wit (Witbier; Port City<br />
Brewing Company, VA). Brewed with coriander,<br />
orange peel and grains of paradise, this is a wellbalanced,<br />
smooth and immensely drinkable witbier<br />
that any fan of the style can appreciate. The nose and<br />
mouth are wheat-driven, but accents from the spice bill<br />
are there to add depth and complexity. A lemony briskness<br />
complements the flavors of clove and pepper on<br />
the close, ending slightly dry but clean.<br />
abv: 5.0% Price: $11/12 oz 6 pack<br />
90<br />
BEST BUYS<br />
Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV Oloroso<br />
Sherry. Round and welcoming up front, with<br />
toffee, caramel and mocha aromas that are not too<br />
sharp. Feels smooth, with pure flavors of toasted nuts,<br />
caramel, cocoa dust, dried apricot and underripe peach.<br />
Complex and nutty on the finish, with a sweet aftertaste<br />
of chocolate and toffee. CIV/USA. Best Buy. —M.S.<br />
abv: 18% Price: $15<br />
90<br />
Tapiz 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Solid as a<br />
boulder and concentrated on the bouquet, with<br />
a mix of floral, fine perfume and blackberry aromas.<br />
Feels lush, complete and easygoing, with blackberry,<br />
cassis and chocolate flavors. Graceful and composed on<br />
the back end. Vino Del Sol. Best Buy. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13.8% Price: $15<br />
89<br />
BEST BUYS<br />
Q 2010 Syrah (Sonoma County). Nice and<br />
peppery, with deep, impressive blackberry and<br />
plum, bacon and sandalwood flavors. It’s a full-bodied<br />
wine with lots of power and elegance. Drink now. Best<br />
Buy. —S.H.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $12<br />
88<br />
Hope Estate 2009 Shiraz (Hunter Valley).<br />
This medium-bodied Shriaz displays a soft,<br />
creamy, inviting mouthfeel and a piquant counterpoint<br />
in its flavors of tart cherries and mulling spices. It’s an<br />
easy-drinking wine that ends on a cranberry note. <strong>Wine</strong>sellers<br />
Ltd. Best Buy. —J.C.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $13<br />
88<br />
Leese-Fitch 2009 Zinfandel (California).<br />
A real crowd pleaser for its sumptuous array of<br />
ripe berry and spice flavors. Wherever the grapes come<br />
from in California, they’ve given a delicious wine, soft<br />
and gentle, and filled with cherry, black raspberry, sweet<br />
licorice, exotic spice and sandalwood flavors. Best Buy.<br />
—S.H.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $13
88<br />
BEST BUYS<br />
Releaf 2010 Made With Organically<br />
Grown Grapes Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot-Shiraz<br />
(Western Cape). This wine needs a little<br />
bit of time to fully integrate, but it has an attractive<br />
crushed-velvet texture with medium tannins, and a flavorful<br />
palate. Forward fruit flavors of berry preserves<br />
and black plum abound, and a black pepper accent<br />
remains on the medium-length finish. Prestige <strong>Wine</strong><br />
Group. Best Buy. —L.B.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $12<br />
88<br />
Santa Julia 2011 + Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Mendoza). Pretty aromas of cassis, cherry<br />
and sweet cream are inviting. Feels good, with zesty<br />
acidity and nice overall balance. Flavors of black currant,<br />
Bing cherry and plum cover the bases, while the<br />
finish is easygoing. The epitome of everyday Cabernet.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>sellers Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $10<br />
88<br />
Tormentoso 2009 Syrah-Mourvèdre<br />
(Paarl). Black cherry and raspberry scents immediately<br />
hit you upon nosing, followed shortly after by<br />
an herbal edge with a chocolaty accent, like a thin mint<br />
cookie. This wine has structured tannins and medium<br />
weight, with a sweet-spice tinge to the close. Drink now.<br />
Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —L.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $13<br />
88<br />
BEST BUYS<br />
Tortoise Creek 2009 Cherokee Lane Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (Lodi). From a single sustainably<br />
farmed vineyard in Lodi comes this super bang<br />
for your buck. It’s earthy Cab that’s perfumed inside and<br />
out, with wafts of cedar burning on an open fire, as well<br />
as brick, black cherry and clove. It’s balanced and structured<br />
to boot. Best Buy. —V.B.<br />
abv: 13.8% Price: $11<br />
87<br />
Tortoise Creek 2010 Jam’s Blend Chardonnay<br />
(Lodi). A nicely done wine, especially<br />
at the price. It’s very pretty aromatically, boasting pear<br />
and vanilla notes, full in the mouth and lemony with<br />
minerality. “Jam” of Jam’s Blend is a commingling of the<br />
names of the two Tortoise Creek founders, Janie and<br />
Mel Master, who source the grapes for this wine out of<br />
a Lodi Rules vineyard. Best Buy. —V.B.<br />
abv: 13.3% Price: $11<br />
86<br />
Bersano 2011 Monteolivo Moscato<br />
d’Asti. Sweet, fragrant and beautifully intense,<br />
this bright Moscato d’Asti would pair with fruit salad<br />
or sponge cake with fresh strawberries and whipped<br />
cream. The close is creamy and frothy. Vin Divino. Best<br />
Buy. —M.L.<br />
abv: 5% Price: $11<br />
86<br />
BEST BUYS<br />
Kirkland Signature 2010 Merlot (Columbia<br />
Valley). Smooth and almost creamy, this<br />
simple sipper has cherries and chocolate in abundance.<br />
The flavors of vanilla and tobacco are also prominent.<br />
Best Buy. —P.G.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $9<br />
86<br />
San Felipe 2010 Oak Cask Chardonnay<br />
(Mendoza). Fleshy peach, melon and pineapple<br />
aromas on the nose. Feels lifted and fresh, and decidedly<br />
not oaky, with citrusy orange and nectarine flavors.<br />
Fruity, round and easy on the finish. Prestige <strong>Wine</strong><br />
Group. Best Buy. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $10<br />
85<br />
J. Garcia Carrion 2010 Opera<br />
Prima Sweet Pink Rosé (La<br />
Mancha). Good for the style, which is<br />
sweet and lightly bubbly. Smells melony,<br />
then feels fresh and lively in the mouth.<br />
Sure, there’s lots of residual sugar, but for<br />
a Moscato-type wine the tropical fruit and<br />
cotton candy flavors work well. Decidedly<br />
not cloying. CIV/USA. Best Buy. —M.S.<br />
abv: 10.5% Price: $8<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>Mag.com | 11
close—that revives and refreshes the palate. A Marc de<br />
Grazia selection; various American importers. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $70<br />
95<br />
San Polo 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
San Polo delivers a stellar 2007 Brunello with<br />
incredible density, concentration and personality. It<br />
starts off soft, smooth and supple until those still-young<br />
tannins appear on the close, giving the wine a firm backbone.<br />
Black fruit, cherry, rum cake, plum, black pepper<br />
and cured meat characterize the bouquet. In all, this is a<br />
beautiful ensemble with layers of beauty and freshness.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>bow. Cellar Selection. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $75<br />
95<br />
Tenimenti Angelini 2007 Val di Suga<br />
(Brunello di Montalcino). This attractive<br />
Brunello presents a wild, brambly side, with aromas<br />
of wild mushroom, forest floor, small berry and crème<br />
de cassis. It boasts a beautiful, deep color and plenty of<br />
concentration, with endnotes of spice, leather and dried<br />
tobacco leaf. The mouthfeel is solid, well defined and<br />
superbly structured. Vin Divino. —M.L.<br />
abv: NA Price: $61<br />
94<br />
Bonacchi 2007 Molino della Suga<br />
(Brunello di Montalcino). A huge difference<br />
from last vintage, this is soft, supple, dense and enduring,<br />
with loads of fruit intensity and a plush, spicy richness.<br />
Black fruit, rum cake, cherry liqueur and smoked<br />
bacon on the close. Modern, bold and very bright.<br />
Baum <strong>Wine</strong> Imports Inc. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $NA<br />
94<br />
Caprili 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. This<br />
is an austere and sophisticated expression of<br />
Sangiovese Grosso, with dried tobacco and spice backed<br />
by prune and currant. The fruit is ripe and mature without<br />
being overtly jammy, chewy or too sweet. In fact,<br />
it presents a savory-sophisticated front with ample concentration<br />
and a polished texture. Good aging potential.<br />
Admiralty Beverage. Cellar Selection. —M.L.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $55<br />
94<br />
Castello Banfi 2007 Poggio alle Mura<br />
(Brunello di Montalcino). Named after one<br />
of the most beautiful stone castles in Europe, Poggio<br />
alle Mura is a dark and compelling wine that shows a<br />
clean quality, a fresh mouthfeel and excellent length.<br />
Beautiful fruit intensity with cherry, blackberry, spice,<br />
leather and tobacco describe the bouquet. Good aging<br />
potential. Banfi Vintners. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $82<br />
94<br />
Castello Romitorio 2007 Brunello di<br />
Montalcino. This is a lovely Brunello with<br />
black cherry, plum, smoke, bacon, leather and a drying<br />
touch of crushed mineral on the nose. It is rich and concentrated,<br />
with a slightly sweet-smelling bouquet. The<br />
mouthfeel is compact, tight and polished—but there is<br />
excellent length too. Vinifera Imports. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $65<br />
94<br />
Citille di Sopra 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Inky-dark concentration segues to<br />
bold berry notes and loads of dark, deep fruit: plum,<br />
prune, blackberry and rum cake. There are also pretty<br />
dustings of dry mineral and dried herb at the back. This<br />
12 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012<br />
is a bold Brunello with power, determination, structure<br />
and balance. It needs at least 10 years of cellar aging.<br />
Siena Imports. Cellar Selection. —M.L.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $60<br />
94<br />
Col d’Orcia 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
For full review see page 4.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $63<br />
94<br />
Donatella Cinelli Colombini 2007 Brunello<br />
di Montalcino. This Brunello opens with an<br />
intense, dark garnet color and shows lush softness and<br />
ripe blackberry fruit with perfumed notes of blue flower,<br />
plum cake and sweet spice. The mouthfeel is characterized<br />
by firm structure and yielding tannins. Banville<br />
& Jones <strong>Wine</strong> Merchants. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $50<br />
94<br />
Fattoria Scopone 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
A pleasurable, opulent wine with rich<br />
tones of cherry and sweet chocolate backed by dense<br />
concentration and extraction. Plush, ripe, modern, soft<br />
and dense; a real crowd-pleaser. Soft, thick texture with<br />
loads of spice, dark fruit and staying power. Superior<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>s LLC. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $50<br />
94<br />
Fornacina 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
This Brunello offers bright aromas with lively<br />
cherry, cola, humus, dark spice and pipe tobacco, as<br />
well as savory tones of beef bresaola and even a touch of<br />
white peppercorn. Impressive complexity. Elegant and<br />
streamlined on the close. Villa Italia. Cellar Selection.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $64<br />
94<br />
La Fortuna 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
La Fortuna Brunello shows a distinctive nose<br />
with a vein of sweet spice that holds up the plump fruit.<br />
You’ll find rum cake, cinnamon bun, Christmas spice<br />
and chocolate-covered cherry. It’s soft, plush and rich<br />
on the finish, with a lingering note of sweetness that<br />
drives its cheerful personality. MHW, Ltd. —M.L.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $49<br />
94<br />
La Magia 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. La<br />
Magia Brunello is a brooding, masculine wine<br />
filled with tobacco smoke and cigar box. At the back<br />
are tones of dried fruit, blackberry preserves, crème de<br />
cassis and prune. It shows wonderful intensity and elegance<br />
with loads of personality. Spice, black pepper and<br />
bitter chocolate also appear on the long, silky finish. It<br />
promises to age well. BCI <strong>Wine</strong> and Beer. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $50<br />
94<br />
La Velona 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
A bold, plump and soft expression of Brunello,<br />
with sweet berry fruit, chocolate fudge, cinnamon spice<br />
and marzipan. The wine’s appearance is dark and well<br />
extracted. Despite the grandeur of the nose, the mouthfeel<br />
is compact, tight and firm. Tutto Vino. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $NA<br />
94<br />
Máté 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. The<br />
ripe fruit element is perfectly contained and<br />
just short of seeming overdone or jammy. It’s soft and<br />
round, with loads of oak-driven spice, like cinnamon<br />
and ground clove, and plump tones of red cherry, black-<br />
berry and plum. What’s really nice is the freshness and<br />
overall supple texture. Vinilandia USA. —M.L.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $70<br />
94<br />
Molino di Sant’Antimo 2007 Brunello di<br />
Montalcino. Well stitched together with a<br />
broad, wide assembly of dark fruit, spice and cola-like<br />
aromas. All the wine’s elements sing loud as a single<br />
chorus; bold, plush, chewy. Ends with ripe fruit, rum<br />
cake, pipe tobacco and dark espresso bean. Firm, great<br />
length. Delectatio <strong>Wine</strong>s. Editors’ Choice. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $40<br />
94<br />
Pietranera 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Opens with dark concentration and ripe berry<br />
fruit with layers of plum, blackberry, dark chocolate,<br />
pipe tobacco, cherry liqueur, cola and underbrush. It<br />
offers a wonderful 360-degree portrait of Sangiovese<br />
Grosso. Tight structure, integration and loads of fruity<br />
intensity. Drink after 2018. Soilair Selection. Cellar Selection.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $45<br />
94<br />
Pieve Santa Restituta 2007 Sugarille<br />
(Brunello di Montalcino). Bold and elegant<br />
at the same time. Packs a powerful punch in a silk glove.<br />
Intense aromas of ripe fruit, spice, cherry liqueur, cola,<br />
dried sage and cigar box. The mouthfeel is pristine and<br />
structured, with a precise, tonic and streamlined impact.<br />
Terlato <strong>Wine</strong>s International. Cellar Selection.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $190<br />
94<br />
Poggiarellino 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
A nice surprise. Great density and richness<br />
with layers of dark fruit and spice. Thick concentration<br />
and a bold, confident presentation. Plush texture,<br />
length and density. Age 5–10 more years. Premier <strong>Wine</strong><br />
Co. —M.L.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $50<br />
94<br />
Poggio Antico 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
A whiff of fresh flowers from a rose garden<br />
or a lavender field makes for a nice first impression. Beyond<br />
that is dark fruit, black cherry and crème de cassis.<br />
Shadings of lead pencil, leather and tobacco fill in<br />
the rear. This Brunello presents a soft, round mouthfeel<br />
with cherry flavors capped by tight structure. The Sorting<br />
Table. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $79<br />
94<br />
Poggio il Castellare 2007 Brunello di<br />
Montalcino. Loads of balsam intensity with<br />
eucalyptus, ground ginger, cola, dried fruit and crème<br />
de cassis. This wine also adds a pretty floral note of red<br />
rose petal or potpourri that really steals the show. Loads<br />
of balance and complexity. Smooth, long finish, good<br />
length. Drink after 2015. Margate <strong>Wine</strong> & Spirit Company.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $65<br />
94<br />
Tenuta di Sesta 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Tenuta di Sesta is run by a perfect father-mother-daughter-son<br />
team and is located in one<br />
of the least-traveled corners of Montalcino. The 2007<br />
Brunello delivers sweet oak tones that drive the initial<br />
bouquet and are soon followed by bright cherry, vanilla<br />
bean, sweet mocha and rum cake. Pretty balsam notes
at the back will undoubtedly increase and evolve with<br />
age. Cellar this wine 10 years. Monsieur Touton Selection<br />
Ltd. Cellar Selection. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $90<br />
94<br />
Tenuta La Fuga 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Gorgeous, beautiful Brunello. Dark<br />
concentration and excellent intensity. Loads of complexity<br />
that peels back slowly layer after layer as the<br />
wine evolves. Rock-solid structure and freshness that<br />
point to a happy cellar evolution. Aromas of dark fruit,<br />
cola, cured meat, balsam, dried herb, tobacco and leather.<br />
Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $65<br />
94<br />
Uccelliera 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Austere, tight and sophisticated, this well-extracted<br />
Brunello shows dry aromas of crushed granite<br />
along with ethereal tones of dried ginger, black licorice<br />
and root beer. Inky appearance with chewy richness.<br />
The mouthfeel is round, chewy and packed with sweet<br />
fruit and spice. Drink after 2015. A Marc de Grazia selection;<br />
various American importers. Cellar Selection.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $72<br />
94<br />
Verbena 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Here’s a gorgeous wine with a deep, inky color<br />
and super extraction that is elegant but powerful at the<br />
same time. This is a balanced wine, but it’s also an intense<br />
wine, with loads of ripe fruit, spice and tobacco.<br />
It feels smooth and rich, with a finely crafted texture<br />
that is velvety and supple. Michael R. Downey Selections.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $55<br />
93<br />
Bonacchi 2007 Casalino (Brunello di<br />
Montalcino). A lovely, lush wine with bold,<br />
direct aromas of ripe cherry, cured meat, blackberry<br />
preserves and exotic spice. It presents a clean and fresh<br />
mouthfeel, with solid structure on the long finish. Baum<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> Imports Inc. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $25<br />
93<br />
Canalicchio di Sopra 2007 Brunello di<br />
Montalcino. Opulent tones of toasted espresso<br />
bean and soft chocolate fudge play a supporting role to<br />
bold berry and dried raspberry. Background floral tones<br />
of dried lavender and red rose. There’s a touch of earthiness,<br />
too, with button mushroom and forest floor. Tannins<br />
are nicely polished and firm. Streamlined, elegant.<br />
Vinifera Imports. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $63<br />
93<br />
Capanne Ricci 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Textbook Brunello nose from a warm<br />
vintage. It grabs from a wide array of elements at its disposal,<br />
with balsam, cola and humus, backed by ripe fruit<br />
and dark cherry. More layers appear as leather, earth<br />
and cured meat. Great complexity and balance. Closes<br />
elegant, fresh and clean. Montcalm <strong>Wine</strong> Importers.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $50<br />
93<br />
Castiglion del Bosco 2007 Campo del<br />
Drago (Brunello di Montalcino). Youthful,<br />
bright and direct in its bold cherry and blueberry aromas.<br />
Vinous, chewy and raw with more evolution ahead.<br />
Chewy density with bold concentration and ripe fruit.<br />
Give it 4–6 more years. USA <strong>Wine</strong> West. —M.L.<br />
abv: 15.5% Price: $80<br />
93<br />
Citille di Sopra 2007 Vigna Poggio Ronconi<br />
(Brunello di Montalcino). Big, bold<br />
and dark in style. Loads of exotic spice, soy sauce, Teriyaki,<br />
cured meat, ripe fruit and savory peppercorn. The<br />
mouthfeel is thick and soft. Definitely for those who<br />
like bold personality in their Tuscan red. Siena Imports.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $80<br />
93<br />
Donatella Cinelli Colombini 2007 Prime<br />
Donne (Brunello di Montalcino). Toasted,<br />
tight, even gritty in spots, with firm tannins and bold<br />
aromas. The wine shows power and personality, with<br />
ripe fruit, spice, leather, tobacco and thick density. Banville<br />
& Jones <strong>Wine</strong> Merchants. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $60<br />
93<br />
Fanti 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. This<br />
fine and delicate Brunello shows soft elegance<br />
and sophistication in the form of cassis, wild berry,<br />
white pepper, root beer, toasted nut and cigar tobacco.<br />
The mouthfeel is firm and clean, with elements of tannic<br />
structure and fresh acidity that work well together.<br />
The oak element still needs time to integrate. Sherbrooke<br />
Cellars. —M.L.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $70<br />
93<br />
Fattoi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A<br />
Brunello with broad shoulders and a powerful<br />
bouquet that delivers bright, bold aromas of ripe fruit,<br />
dark spice, leather and dried tobacco. The wine’s structure<br />
and dark fruit flavors move evenly over the palate<br />
with smoothness and harmony. Tricana Imports. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $60<br />
93<br />
Fattoria dei Barbi 2007 Vigna del Fiore<br />
(Brunello di Montalcino). Delicate embroidered<br />
with sage, eucalyptus, cola, wild berry, white<br />
cherry, rum cake and savory spice, this wine shows the<br />
kind of pretty berry aromas that are brighter than they<br />
are intense. In fact, the wine shows elegant restraint<br />
with the potential for a beautiful evolution in the bottle.<br />
Pasternak <strong>Wine</strong> Imports. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $90<br />
93<br />
Fattoria La Lecciaia 2007 Vigna Manapetra<br />
(Brunello di Montalcino). A vineyarddesignated<br />
Brunello with sharp clarity and purity. Sangiovese<br />
aromas of wild berry, earth, pressed blue flower<br />
and forest floor. Lively and direct on the palate, with<br />
integrated acidity and firm structure. Monsieur Touton<br />
Selection Ltd. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $48<br />
93<br />
Fattoria Scopone 2007 L’Olivare (Brunello<br />
di Montalcino). Bright, textbook, loads of<br />
Sangiovese intensity with complexity and tight aromas<br />
of wild berry, blueberry, almond, white pepper, spice<br />
and rum cake. Tight and streamlined in the mouth.<br />
Needs more time to soften with cellar aging. Superior<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>s LLC. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $50<br />
93<br />
Fossacolle 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Pretty savory tones and barbecue aromas combine<br />
to create a bold Brunello. Ripe fruit, black pepper,<br />
rum cake, black currant and blackberry preserves all appear<br />
in the background. Silky-smooth and firm, it shows<br />
a clean, sharp, bold close. Vias Imports. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $48<br />
93<br />
Gianni Brunelli 2007 Le Chiuse (Brunello<br />
di Montalcino). Pretty textbook Brunello with<br />
smooth bright berry nuances packed in a traditional,<br />
tight body. Good acidity and firmness with well structured,<br />
silky tannin. Acid Inc Selections. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $75<br />
93<br />
Il Paradiso di Frassina 2007 Brunello di<br />
Montalcino. More spice than ripe fruit characteristics<br />
here. There’s a dark, savory note of smoked<br />
ham or bacon as well, with back-end notes of cola and<br />
root beer. Warm, wintery personality. Streamlined and<br />
polished in the mouth. Superior <strong>Wine</strong>s LLC. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $75<br />
93<br />
Il Valentiano 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
A bold, plush pleasure bomb with thick layers<br />
of bright cherry and chocolate. Loads of tobacco,<br />
spice and new leather. Huge intensity and bold aromas.<br />
Fresh oak notes of vanilla and cinnamon show first signs<br />
of integration. A bold, modern Brunello with some tannic<br />
astringency. Vidalco International, LLC. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $60<br />
93<br />
La Mannella 2007 I Poggiarelli (Brunello<br />
di Montalcino). Opulent and floral, with<br />
pressed rose and blue violets. Soapy aromas with church<br />
incense and cinnamon potpourri. Very enduring and intense<br />
with tight, firm tannins and good length. Casa Torelli<br />
. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $55<br />
93<br />
La Poderina 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Opens with dark concentration and syrupy aromas<br />
of cherry liqueur, blackberry preserves and cassis<br />
concentrate. The wine is soft, plump and chewy, with a<br />
smooth, thick quality to its texture that makes it a natural<br />
pairing partner to red meat. Vias Imports. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $62<br />
93<br />
Le Potazzine 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Here’s an austere, sophisticated wine, with<br />
a pretty garnet color and finely polished aromas of cassis,<br />
wild berry, cola, wet river stone, barbecue smoke<br />
and bresaola. There’s good complexity and integration<br />
and this Brunello delivers satisfying freshness and<br />
balanced acidity. A Marc de Grazia selection; various<br />
American importers. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $72<br />
93<br />
Lisini 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Stands<br />
out for its complexity and length, showcasing<br />
cherry liqueur, blackberry preserves, root beer, dried<br />
ginger and Spanish cedar. There’s an exotic Asian quality<br />
to this Brunello that adds interest. Solid, shapely and<br />
velvety in the mouth. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $80<br />
93<br />
Mastrojanni 2007 Vigna Loreto (Brunello<br />
di Montalcino). Inky, ripe, nicely extracted<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>Mag.com | 13
and loaded tight with blackberry, spice and cherry aromas,<br />
this is a beautiful Brunello that delivers intensity,<br />
staying power and promises easy food-pairing potential.<br />
Velvety, soft, rich and plush in the mouth. Selected Estates<br />
of Europe Ltd. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $120<br />
93<br />
Palazzo 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Shows sweet blackberry or cherry liqueur aromas,<br />
followed by spice, leather and moist pipe tobacco.<br />
Coffee or dark espresso, too. Well structured, firm and<br />
extracted, with good intensity and staying power. Drink<br />
after 2018. Bedford International. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $70<br />
93<br />
PianCornello 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Dark, inky and thick, this hearty Brunello<br />
begs for grilled steak. It opens with ripe fruit—blackberry,<br />
plum and prune—and has a background rendering<br />
of spice, leather and cigar box. It shows a big, bold<br />
style, with loads of soft density and opulence. Good<br />
structure, too. Drink after 2015. Superior <strong>Wine</strong>s LLC.<br />
Cellar Selection. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $60<br />
93<br />
Poggio Antico 2007 Altero (Brunello di<br />
Montalcino). Pretty ensemble of bright fruit,<br />
spice and cured meat, with ample concentration. Plump<br />
and round in the mouth, with loads of aromatic intensity.<br />
The mouthfeel is tight and chiseled. The Sorting<br />
Table. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $94<br />
93<br />
Poggio Nardone 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
There’s an exotic, almost Indian personality,<br />
with aromas of dark spice, clove and cardamom.<br />
Black fruit, prune and currant are also in evidence.<br />
Bold, black and inky thick. It’s soft, round and<br />
long on the close with pretty freshness, too. Michael<br />
Skurnik <strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $40<br />
93<br />
Quattroventi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Loads of lush cinnamon, spice, dark fruit<br />
and overall intensity. Supple and velvety with cherry,<br />
raspberry, vanilla and espresso bean. . —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $NA<br />
93<br />
San Filippo di Giannelli 2007 Le Lucére<br />
(Brunello di Montalcino). Loads of balsam<br />
intensity and an array of dried herb, red fruit, wild berry,<br />
cedar wood and forest floor aromas. It’s very full and<br />
generous in the mouth, with firm, but polished tannin.<br />
A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $60<br />
93<br />
San Polino 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Luscious dark fruit and huge aromatic complexity:<br />
dark red cherry, crème de cassis, black licorice,<br />
dried ginger and ground pepper. Defined and tight in<br />
the mouth, with a long finish. T. Edward <strong>Wine</strong>s Ltd.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: NA Price: $65<br />
93<br />
Siro Pacenti 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
A wine that speaks of territory and tradition,<br />
it’s clean, polished and pristine, with a nice balance<br />
14 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012<br />
between fruit and spice. Thick tannins need more time<br />
to age and soften. Michael Skurnik <strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $70<br />
93<br />
Tenuta Carlina 2007 la Togata (Brunello<br />
di Montalcino). Deep garnet in color, with<br />
dark amber highlights. There’s loads of intensity here,<br />
with ripe, syrupy fruit, blackberry preserves, prune and<br />
dark plum. On the savory side, the wine presents an<br />
even succession of leather, tobacco and cedar. It’s soft,<br />
generous and thickly textured on the luscious finish.<br />
Panebianco. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $72<br />
93<br />
Tenuta San Giorgio 2007 Ugolforte<br />
(Brunello di Montalcino). Features sweet<br />
fruit, plum, prune and a savory element of spice and<br />
smoke; loads of leather and tobacco as well. Deep rich,<br />
concentration and a plush, velvety feel. Oak tones must<br />
still integrate, but promise a nice future. Majestic Imports.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $30<br />
93<br />
Tenuta Vitanza 2007 Tradizione (Brunello<br />
di Montalcino). Thick and dark, with generous<br />
fruit, spice, leather and tobacco. This is a wine<br />
that does not hold back from an aromatic point of view.<br />
Mouthfeel is tight, firm and ends with polished tannins.<br />
Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $45<br />
93<br />
Terralsole 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Shows balance and integration and a dark, inky<br />
appearance. Blackberry, plum cake, cinnamon bun,<br />
leather and tobacco aromas. Chewy, ripe mouthfeel<br />
frames plush fruit, while the dusty, structured finish<br />
features loads of dried tobacco leaf. Terralsole. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $75<br />
92<br />
Altesino 2007 Montosoli (Brunello di<br />
Montalcino). Oak spice, bramble, toasted almond,<br />
chocolate, spice, dark fruit and rum cake all<br />
make appearances. This is tight, firm, straightforward<br />
yet generous. The oak element will soften with more<br />
years of cellar aging. Save for 5–10 years. <strong>Wine</strong>bow.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $100<br />
92<br />
Belpoggio 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Bright cherry cola and root beer notes veer<br />
beautifully onto the balsam side, with dried ginger and<br />
chopped mint. Some firm tannic astringency needs to<br />
soften with time, and there’s a drying mineral tone that<br />
holds it all together. Vino Direct. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $44<br />
92<br />
Brunelli 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
A very dusty, dry expression of Brunello, with<br />
tones of crushed stone and talcum powder. It’s nice<br />
when a wine adds that mineral touch at the back of red<br />
fruit and spice, as it gives the bouquet firmness and<br />
backbone. Cherry, blackberry, cola and rum cake are all<br />
there. The mouthfeel is structured, dry and compact.<br />
Small Vineyards LLC. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $50<br />
92<br />
Camigliano 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
This Brunello opens with a sweet nose of<br />
bright cherry fruit, mocha and vanilla bean. The wine’s<br />
flavors are more savory, with some background notes of<br />
forest floor and wild mushroom. The mouthfeel is firm<br />
and steady, but also fresh and compact. Vias Imports.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $50<br />
92<br />
Castelli Martinozzi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Bright and plump, very lively Sangiovese<br />
fruit. There’s smooth richness and great staying<br />
power to the wine’s black fruit and exotic spice. Alnam<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> for All. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $42<br />
92<br />
Castello Banfi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Garnet-ruby in color, with hues of amber<br />
at the rim. Oak tones of spice and toasted nut still need<br />
time to integrate. The wine is bright and slightly astringent,<br />
with a firm, polished disposition, but has nice fruit<br />
tones of currant and cassis. Give it a few more years in<br />
the cellar. Banfi Vintners. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $55<br />
92<br />
Castiglion del Bosco 2007 Brunello di<br />
Montalcino. Smoke and dark fruit, with a<br />
touch of drying mineral and softer background tones<br />
of chocolate and rum cake. There’s a very polished, dry<br />
feel to this wine. The oak notes are still integrating, and<br />
the finish is tight and firm. USA <strong>Wine</strong> West. —M.L.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $60<br />
92<br />
Collemattoni 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
This wine features thick, luscious tones<br />
and bright notes of forest fruit and underbrush. There’s<br />
a tight, bold quality to the tannins that suggests this<br />
wine needs more time to age. Give it 10 more years,<br />
as its very dense and masculine in the mouth. Vignaioli.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $67<br />
92<br />
Conti Costanti 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
An attractive, rich style of Brunello with<br />
loads of aromatic intensity. There’s cherry liqueur, rum<br />
cake, cola, toasted almond, savory spice, cured meat and<br />
tobacco. A pure, clean, long, silky close displays good<br />
structure and acidity. Drink after 2016. Empson (USA)<br />
Ltd. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $82<br />
92<br />
Cordella 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Opens with a sweet opulent nose driven by aromas<br />
of plump cherry, moist pipe tobacco, chocolate<br />
fudge, vanilla bean and ground espresso. But the wine is<br />
not modern or overtly international in terms of its style.<br />
It shows deep roots in Montalcino tradition and a bold,<br />
overt personality. Earth, leather and dried tobacco drive<br />
the finish. North Berkeley Imports. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $50<br />
92<br />
Cupano 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Dark in color and thickly extracted, with savory<br />
notes of cured meat, beef jerky, tobacco and leather.<br />
Fruit tones resemble dried strawberry, prune and dark<br />
plum, giving this wine a ripe, earthy feel. Closes soft,<br />
plush and spicy. Verdeor Select Vintages. —M.L.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $110
Donna Olga 2007 Le Cacce in Villa<br />
92 (Brunello di Montalcino). Beautiful and sophisticated<br />
aromas of dried sage, eucalyptus, cola, wild<br />
berry and forest floor lead into a wine with a linear, long,<br />
polished and pretty berry nuances on the finish. —M.L.<br />
abv: NA Price: $NA<br />
92<br />
Geografico Castello Tricerchi 2007<br />
Brunello di Montalcino. Gorgeous, deep,<br />
inky-black and intense. What sets this wine apart is the<br />
drying mineral tone of crushed granite that gives it direction<br />
and backbone. It’s soft and plush on the palate,<br />
with round tones of ripe fruit and sweet spice. Nice<br />
density and structure, too, with a spicy aftertaste. Monarchia<br />
Matt International. —M.L.<br />
abv: NA Price: $NA<br />
92<br />
Il Marroneto 2007 Selezione Madonna<br />
delle Grazie (Brunello di Montalcino).<br />
Bold fruit layers of red cherry, plum, blackberry, spice,<br />
cola and chocolate mark this wine. The quality of the<br />
fruit is still raw and bright and could use several years of<br />
cellar aging. Montcalm <strong>Wine</strong> Importers. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $60<br />
92<br />
Il Poggiolo E. Cosimi 2007 Brunello di<br />
Montalcino. This gorgeous Brunello is packed<br />
tight with personality and intensity. The wine is redolent<br />
of candied cherry, blackberry, rum cake, cinnamon<br />
bread and dried ginger. It shows steely, firm structure<br />
and a tightly knit texture. Compact, sharp and decisive.<br />
Enotec Imports, Inc. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $50<br />
92<br />
Il Poggiolo E. Cosimi 2007 Bramante Cosimi<br />
(Brunello di Montalcino). Dense, lush<br />
and bold, this wine shows red cherry, blackberry, rum<br />
cake, cinnamon spice and dark chocolate. The wine’s<br />
concentration is particularly attractive and adds momentum<br />
to the already long finish. Easy, soft and almost<br />
ready to drink now. Enotec Imports, Inc. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $40<br />
92<br />
Innocenti 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Marked by chocolate, leather, tobacco, espresso,<br />
dark licorice and loads of pretty blackberry fruit, this<br />
is a defined, focused wine with a crisp, pristine personality.<br />
Mission <strong>Wine</strong> Company. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $NA<br />
92<br />
La Serena 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Smoky overtones of barbecue and pipe tobacco<br />
fill in the background and provide a platform for all the<br />
busy cherry and ripe berry notes presented on the nose.<br />
It’s a big, bold style with loads of savory spice, black pepper<br />
and smoked bacon. Drink after 2015. A Marc de<br />
Grazia selection; various American importers. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $65<br />
92<br />
Mastrojanni 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Here’s a dark, austere expression of Brunello,<br />
with layers of exotic spice, toasted nut, cardamom and<br />
forest underbrush. Small berry fruit comes through as<br />
raspberry and black currant. In the mouth, the wine is<br />
bright, defined and firm, showing solid tannic structure.<br />
Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $95<br />
92<br />
Mocali 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Here’s an oak-driven Brunello that needs time<br />
to evolve—give it five years or more. Glimmers of<br />
bright fruit emerge despite the presence of toasted almond,<br />
cedar wood and vanilla extract. The wine is concentrated<br />
with soft tannins and a lovely rich feel in the<br />
mouth.Michael Skurnik <strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $40<br />
92<br />
Mocali 2007 Vigna delle Raunate (Brunello<br />
di Montalcino). Bold fruit and oak-driven<br />
notes display broad brush strokes of cherry, clove, cinnamon<br />
and vanilla bean. Smooth, rich velvety mouthfeel.<br />
This is still young, fruity and vinous; let it age 10<br />
years or more. Michael Skurnik <strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $70<br />
92<br />
Piccini 2007 Villa al Cortile (Brunello di<br />
Montalcino). Bright, buoyant delivery with<br />
the kind of aromas that pop. Think cola, balsam, eucalyptus,<br />
dried ginger and crushed black pepper. The<br />
fruit is subtle and delicate, reminiscent of forest berry<br />
and cassis. The wine’s structure is firm and solid without<br />
being too biting and there’s fresh acidity, too. Aveniù<br />
Brands, Inc. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $50<br />
92<br />
Podere Paganico 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Mineral tones and oak tones will integrate<br />
with time. With the wine’s other notes of black<br />
cherry, licorice, bresaola, white pepper and black currant.<br />
Beautiful harmony and intensity, with a firm, silky<br />
signature on the finish. Saranty Imports. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $40<br />
92<br />
San Filippo di Giannelli 2007 Brunello<br />
di Montalcino. Dark fruit and fresh oak<br />
tones still need time to integrate—give this Brunello a<br />
few more years of bottle age. Chocolate, exotic spice,<br />
cherry, blackberry, leather and pipe tobacco on the<br />
nose; smooth berry richness and a tight, firm feel in the<br />
mouth. A Marc de Grazia selection; various American<br />
importers. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $45<br />
92<br />
San Lorenzo 2007 Bramante (Brunello di<br />
Montalcino). Ripe fruit, prune, sticky pipe tobacco<br />
and rum cake notes are bold and big, with thick<br />
aromatic embroidery and broader brush strokes. Structured<br />
and incredibly smooth on the finish. This wine<br />
shows a fine, velvety texture. Vos Vinum Importing Ltd.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $50<br />
92<br />
San Polino 2007 Helichrysum (Brunello<br />
di Montalcino). Balsam notes of cola, deep<br />
spice, forest floor, sage and eucalyptus are long and<br />
ethereal. This is polished and bright with fine, firm tannins.<br />
T. Edward <strong>Wine</strong>s Ltd. —M.L.<br />
abv: NA Price: $75<br />
92<br />
Sesta di Sopra 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
A ripe sweet style, with blackberry and<br />
cherry liqueur, leather, tobacoo, rum cake and graham<br />
cracker. This wine’s polished, distinctive finish features<br />
a rich, velvety feel. Premier <strong>Wine</strong> Co. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $70<br />
92<br />
Tenuta Crocedimezzo 2007 Brunello di<br />
Montalcino. Pretty floral notes rise to the<br />
top: lavender and pressed rose. That intense floral element<br />
gives the wine an elegant, sophisticated personality<br />
that’s tight and structured, with great balance<br />
between firm tannins and bright acidity. Aventine Hill<br />
LLC. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $60<br />
92<br />
Tenuta Oliveto 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Bold and concentrated, with a dark, extracted<br />
appearance and tones of ripe fruit and spice. There<br />
are savory notes of barbecue sauce and cured bacon as<br />
well. The wine is thick and full in the mouth, with textured<br />
tannins and an extroverted personality. Drink after<br />
2018. IMA Imports. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $59<br />
92<br />
Tiezzi 2007 Vigna Soccorso (Brunello di<br />
Montalcino). Youthful fruit tones of cherry<br />
and raw blackberry set the stage. Those bold fruit layers<br />
will evolve slowly with more cellar aging, integrating<br />
with the light spice, tobacco, cedar and earth. The<br />
mouthfeel is bold, round and long-lasting. Michael<br />
Skurnik <strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $42<br />
92<br />
Tornesi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
There’s a nicely perfumed element to the nose<br />
that recalls pressed blue flower or lavender potpourri.<br />
Bold berry and currant undertones form a base of<br />
plumpness and richness. Light shadings of spice and<br />
toasted nut drive the mouthfeel. Structured and firm.<br />
Fourcade & Hecht <strong>Wine</strong> Selections. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $50<br />
92<br />
Valdicava 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
This Brunello opens with inky, dark concentration<br />
and ripe aromas of prune, plum and blackberry. It’s<br />
packed tight with savory spices, such as ground clove<br />
and cardamom, and it also offers a full load of ripe (but<br />
not jammy) black fruit. It feels thick and textured on<br />
the palate, with tannins that will soften with 5–10 more<br />
years of bottle aging. There’s a touch of cherry sweetness<br />
on the close. Vinifera Imports. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $110<br />
91<br />
Altesino 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A<br />
dark, masculine, brooding Brunello, with savory<br />
aromas of leather and cured meat behind ripe fruit<br />
and blackberry. It’s tight and clean, with a streamlined<br />
mouthfeel that testifies to the wine’s firm tannic structure.<br />
Executed in a traditional style, it shows possibilities<br />
for long-term aging. <strong>Wine</strong>bow. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $60<br />
91<br />
Argiano 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A<br />
youthful, oak-driven Brunello that needs more<br />
time to integrate. Ripe, plummy fruit shows chewy, rich<br />
density, then folds in blackberry, cherry, spice, leather<br />
and tobacco. Still tight in the mouth. Vias Imports.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $60<br />
91<br />
Canneta 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
This Brunello presents a classic, textbook bouquet<br />
with red fruit, spice, cola and pressed flowers—but<br />
with a subdued, mild delivery. The wine shows aromatic<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>Mag.com | 15
intensity but not in an exaggerated fashion. The tannins<br />
are dry, firm and dusty and there’s a wood-driven finish<br />
of spice and rolled pipe tobacco. Orvino Imports & Distribution.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $45<br />
91<br />
Donna Olga 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Inky dark concentration combines with a youthful,<br />
almost grapy quality in the mouth. Cola, chewy<br />
fruit, ripe density and exotic spices all are present while<br />
the mouthfeel is lean, crisp and structured. . —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $NA<br />
91<br />
Fattoria dei Barbi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Licorice, ripe fruit, ginger, lemon zest,<br />
crushed stone, cassis and wild berry notes are bold,<br />
but in the mouth the wine is lean and compact, with a<br />
particularly bright and fresh feel in the mouth. There’s<br />
even a menthol note at the very end. Pasternak <strong>Wine</strong><br />
Imports. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $49<br />
91<br />
Fattoria La Lecciaia 2007 Brunello di<br />
Montalcino. Spice and bright notes of dried<br />
tobacco, ginger, cola and black pepper mark this wine,<br />
which displays deep richness and intensity. Crisp, clean<br />
finish. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $40<br />
91<br />
Fuligni 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Here’s a youthful expression of Sangiovese<br />
Grosso in which the grape’s trademark acidity and fruity<br />
brightness shine through. Cherry, white almond, dried<br />
raspberry and rum cake notes present a soft, chewy feel<br />
in the mouth, although the overall structure is solid.<br />
Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $90<br />
91<br />
Il Poggiolo E. Cosimi 2007 Terra Rossa<br />
(Brunello di Montalcino). Very oak driven,<br />
with notes of cinnamon, vanilla, exotic spice, toasted coconut<br />
and dark chocolate. There is dark fruit, like cherry<br />
and blackberry, at the back. Ripe tannins impart a<br />
plush, rich mouthfeel and loads of dense, chewy intensity.<br />
Enotec Imports, Inc. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $65<br />
91<br />
Il Poggione 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Inky-black appearance. Ripe, concentrated<br />
notes of blackberry and raspberry jam are framed by<br />
bold tannins with an astringent bite at the end. Terlato<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>s International. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $80<br />
91<br />
La Cerbaiola 2007 Salvioni (Brunello di<br />
Montalcino). A full-bodied wine with cured<br />
meat, barbecue, black fruit, toasted almond, leather and<br />
tobacco aromas. It feels smooth and opulent, with good<br />
structure and a velvety texture. Vias Imports. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $167<br />
91<br />
La Collina dei Lecci 2007 Brunello di<br />
Montalcino. Classic Brunello, albeit in a bold,<br />
dense style. Delicate, ethereal Sangiovese accents<br />
emerge, but the wine is also packed tight with modern<br />
aromas of spice, leather and dark chocolate. It shows<br />
nice balance and complexity. Textured tannins and tight<br />
16 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012<br />
structure keep it firmly in place. Monsieur Touton Selection<br />
Ltd. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $40<br />
91<br />
La Fornace 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
This wine displays pretty, feminine aromas and<br />
a bright mouthfeel. A polished mineral note follows red<br />
berry, cassis and plum. Drying tannins provide ample<br />
structure. Vignaioli. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $65<br />
91<br />
La Pieve 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
This Brunello offers a distinctive note of spice,<br />
leather, moist earth or porcino mushroom at the start<br />
that slowly segues to dried fruit, prune and black currant.<br />
There’s also cured beef and smoked bacon fat. It<br />
offers, big, plush and bold tones with chewy concentration<br />
and sweet cherry fruit on the close. David Vincent<br />
Selection. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $NA<br />
91<br />
Lambardi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Concentrated and dense, with bold red fruit,<br />
deep spice notes and overtones of tobacco, bresaola,<br />
leather and cigar box. It’s a bold, masculine wine but<br />
restrained and elegant at the same time. Despite the<br />
bold bouquet, the mouthfeel is rather compact and<br />
firm. It leaves the palate refreshed. Petit Pois Corporation.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $NA<br />
91<br />
Podere La Vigna 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
A dark, garnet-colored appearance<br />
with brooding, masculine tones of spice, ripe fruit, dark<br />
cherry, as well as beautiful balsam notes of cola, dried<br />
mint and ginger. Balanced, not overdone. Let the tannins<br />
soften with age. Royalty Importers. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $67<br />
91<br />
San Felice 2007 Campogiovanni (Brunello<br />
di Montalcino). Inky-dark and superconcentrated.<br />
Notes of coal, licorice, crushed peppercorn,<br />
river stone and dark fruit are so big and bold, it’s hard to<br />
imagine with which foods it would pair best. Premium<br />
Brands. —M.L.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $60<br />
91<br />
Sesti 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Tobacco,<br />
dried fruit, cassis, currant, blackberry<br />
and old leather notes mark the nose. Finely textured<br />
and polished, with a mineral tone, leather, ripe fruit and<br />
prune flavors. A pretty, elegant expression of Montalcino<br />
and of Sangiovese. Bright acidity, too. Kermit Lynch<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> Merchant. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $NA<br />
91<br />
Tenuta Friggiali 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Bright delivery with aromas of cola,<br />
root beer, humus, crème de cassis, forest berry and wild<br />
raspberry. It shows finely textured tannins with a bitter<br />
almond or bitter chocolate aftertaste. Brambly, sharp,<br />
acidic and well defined. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $NA<br />
91<br />
Tenute Niccolai 2007 Podere Bellarina<br />
(Brunello di Montalcino). Aromas of blackberry,<br />
plum cake, leather, Indian spice, crushed stone,<br />
black pepper and teriyaki sauce. The extraction is in-<br />
credibly dense, making this wine almost above food<br />
pairing (try it with aged cheese). Very structured, but<br />
ripe tannins. Age 10 years or more. Angelini <strong>Wine</strong>.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $70<br />
91<br />
Tenute Silvio Nardi 2007 Brunello di<br />
Montalcino. Black licorice, cola and cherry<br />
liqueur open the nose and segue to black currant and<br />
crème de cassis aromas, then forest floor, bramble and<br />
Spanish cedar. This wine is linear, crisp and tight on the<br />
palate, with firm tannins. Give the wine five more years<br />
to soften. Kobrand. —M.L.<br />
abv: NA Price: $70<br />
91<br />
Terre Nere 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Cassis, cola, leather, dried ginger, dried spice,<br />
cherry and black licorice all play out on this wine’s<br />
smooth, silky finish. Very nice length with a smooth,<br />
silky endnote. Ripe tannins balance crisp acidity. Monsieur<br />
Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $38<br />
91<br />
Tiezzi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Lean,<br />
compact and crisp, this Brunello is redolent of<br />
oak spice, ripe fruit, cured meat, rum cake and leather.<br />
It shows a sharply focused mouthfeel with tight structure<br />
and a streamlined feel. Michael Skurnik <strong>Wine</strong>s.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $37<br />
91<br />
Villa Le Prata 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Lead pencil and mineral dryness upfront<br />
followed by dark fruit, blackberry and rum cake. The<br />
wine presents a soft round mouthfeel, with ample structure<br />
and length. Lingering barbecue and ripe fruit mark<br />
the close.Vinity <strong>Wine</strong> Company. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $59<br />
90<br />
Casato1 2007 Voliero (Brunello di Montalcino).<br />
An inky-black appearance and spicysavory<br />
aromas make this the kind of Brunello you want<br />
to drink on a really cold winter night. Tightly concentrated<br />
and extracted, with loads of black cherry, leather<br />
and tobacco, there are balsam notes too, but delivered<br />
in a big, strong fashion. The smooth, silky finish that is<br />
not overly dense or intense. A Marc de Grazia selection;<br />
various American importers. —M.L.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $50<br />
90<br />
Collelceto 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
A bright, lively Brunello that happily sheds all<br />
pretense. It’s a wine that communicates Sangiovese<br />
Grosso in a straightforward, confident and natural manner.<br />
There’s bright berry fruit, firm structure and a lean,<br />
compact mouthfeel with silky tannins. But don’t mistake<br />
this for a simple wine. It’s not. It shows delicate complexity<br />
and elegance. Montecastelli Selections. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $45<br />
90<br />
La Palazzetta 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
A youthful, bold Brunello with exotic spice,<br />
dark vanilla bean, leather, toasted oak and chestnut.<br />
Background tones include bramble, wild berry, blueberry<br />
and cola. Bright and firm on the finish. T. Edward<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>s Ltd. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $45
90<br />
Lazzeretti 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Here is a clean, straightforward Brunello with<br />
pretty aromas of wild berry, vanilla, leather, spice and<br />
rum cake. It shows a genuine, frank style with a sweet,<br />
velvety close. Pacific <strong>Wine</strong> Distributors. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $NA<br />
90<br />
Marchesi Antinori 2007 Pian delle Vigne<br />
(Brunello di Montalcino). Bramble and forest<br />
floor, cherry cola and savory bresaola notes amount<br />
to pretty aromatics with less bulkiness in the mouth.<br />
The structure is there but this wine is a bit dry, sharp<br />
and less fleshy than many others.Ste. Michelle <strong>Wine</strong> Estates.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: NA Price: $80<br />
90<br />
Pecci Celestino 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Spice, cherry liqueur, dark fruit, leather<br />
and moist tobacco comprise the bouquet. Structured<br />
and firm, the wine delivers a clean, focused feel. Palateur<br />
Imports. —M.L.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $79<br />
90<br />
Poggio Rubino 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
A bright and direct Brunello with aromatic<br />
intensity in the form of small berry, almond skin,<br />
toasted espresso and nut notes. There’s a charred, toasted<br />
element to the wine that at this young stage adds<br />
some astringency to the mouthfeel. Finishes firm and<br />
crisp. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $NA<br />
90<br />
Solaria 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Some charred almond or toast aromas join with<br />
black berry and crushed granite in this full and generous<br />
wine. Nice linear quality allows the berry fruit to glide<br />
over a long smooth finish. Good structure and intensity<br />
but not overdone. Elliott Bay Distributing Co. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $NA<br />
90<br />
Talenti 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Cola, black licorice, cherry liqueur and rum<br />
cake presage loads of ripe fruit and power. Yet it’s lean<br />
and compact on the finish, with bright acidity that<br />
would pair well with pecorino stagionato or any aged<br />
cheese.Robert Chadderdon Selections. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $NA<br />
90<br />
Villa I Cipressi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
This Brunello opens with a sweet nose of<br />
vanilla and cherry. The bouquet is straightforward, giving<br />
the wine a frank, no-nonsense personality. Flavors of<br />
spice, leather and tobacco appear later, rendering more<br />
depth. It feels youthful, soft and chewy on the close.<br />
A.I. Selections . —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $55<br />
89<br />
Agostina Pieri 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
A delicate and subtle expression of Sangiovese<br />
Grosso, with tight touches of wild berry, almond<br />
skin, forest bramble, rum cake, cola and eucalyptus.<br />
Streamlined and tight, with great power on the close. A<br />
very compact and tightly constructed wine. Rare <strong>Wine</strong><br />
Company. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $50<br />
89<br />
Baccinetti 2007 Saporoia (Brunello di<br />
Montalcino). Garnet-ruby hue with slightly<br />
browning rim. Savory aromas of cured meat, cola, dried<br />
fruit and rum cake upfront, while warm earthy, tobacco<br />
and leather tones fill in the rear. Sophisticated and<br />
rich, reminiscent of a storied, nostalgic Brunello tradition.<br />
Generous, but with a firm, drying feel on the finish.<br />
K&L <strong>Wine</strong> Merchants. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $45<br />
89<br />
Baricci 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. The<br />
wine is subdued and clean on the nose and it<br />
doesn’t exaggerate or mask the quality of fruit. This is<br />
executed in a bright, compact and streamlined style that<br />
combines freshness and firmness. Premier <strong>Wine</strong> Co.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $40<br />
89<br />
Bellaria 2007 Assunto (Brunello di Montalcino).<br />
Some superripe notes of strawberry<br />
jam and candied fruit lead into notes of rum cake, cherry<br />
liqueur and cured meat. A bold, masculine mouthfeel<br />
comes courtesy of firm, structured tannins. Terra Verus<br />
Trading Co. LP. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $54<br />
89<br />
Bonacchi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Big and bold, but a bit disjointed aromatically.<br />
Ripe fruit and pipe tobacco vie with a fine note of<br />
graphite or lead pencil. It seems soft, with a touch of<br />
sweetness, but crisp tannins. Give it a few more years to<br />
unwind. Finishes thick and chewy. Baum <strong>Wine</strong> Imports<br />
Inc. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $NA<br />
89<br />
Cantina di Montalcino 2007 Brunello di<br />
Montalcino. A bright nose of cherry, vanilla<br />
and rum cake leads into a moderately intense midpalate,<br />
with bright endnotes of dried mint and ginger on<br />
the cool, crisp finish. <strong>Wine</strong> Wave. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $46<br />
89<br />
Collosorbo 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Here’s a tight, streamlined Brunello characterized<br />
by a toasted or charred almond note and bright forest<br />
notes of wild berry and underbrush. The mouthfeel<br />
is lean and tight, and there’s a tannic firmness that holds<br />
it together. Frank Johnson Selections. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $50<br />
89<br />
Il Marroneto 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Nice ripeness, fullness and generosity here.<br />
The bouquet opens with bold brushstrokes that don’t<br />
match the delicate, subdued feel in the mouth. It delivers<br />
most of its energy on the nose and segues to a much<br />
calmer, more straightforward style on the close. Montcalm<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> Importers. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $45<br />
89<br />
La Colombina 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
This wine strikes a nice balance between<br />
sweet and savory spice on the nose, with ripe fruit,<br />
prune and leather in the background. This is a velvety,<br />
warm, earthy wine with a broad aromatic delivery and<br />
bold Brunello style. It’s smooth and round, without any<br />
of the sharp acidic accents you sometimes find in Sangiovese<br />
Grosso. Michael Skurnik <strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $40<br />
89<br />
La Rasina 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
A bold, inky-black style that is slightly overdone<br />
and a touch overripe. Despite aromas of blackberry preserves,<br />
prune and rum cake, this is a strongly masculine<br />
wine that puts its savory side first. The close is packed<br />
tight with smoked bacon and cured beef aromas. Textured<br />
tannins create some astringency on the finish.<br />
Montecastelli Selections. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $48<br />
89<br />
Le Gode 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
This Brunello shows elegant aromatic restraint<br />
in its tight aromas of wild berry and red currant. Dark<br />
flavors of barbecue spice, cured meat, leather and tobacco<br />
layer the midpalate, then turn fine and full on the<br />
finish. Conexport. —M.L.<br />
abv: NA Price: $80<br />
89<br />
Marchesato degli Aleramici 2007 Brunello<br />
di Montalcino. There’s a progression of<br />
aromas here, with some bright candied fruit alongside<br />
rum cake, dried ginger, licorice and forest floor. The<br />
fruit component resembles crème de cassis and red currant.<br />
Despite all that pretty movement in the bouquet,<br />
the wine is lean and bright in the mouth, and gets the<br />
job done in terms of keeping the palate refreshed. Fedway<br />
Imports. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $45<br />
89<br />
Pinino 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. This<br />
wine goes from delivering savory spice, cured<br />
meat and smoked bacon to being lean and not too intense<br />
or persistent on the close. The alcohol and dry<br />
tannins want more plush fruit for support. USA <strong>Wine</strong><br />
Imports. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $40<br />
89<br />
Ridolfi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Spicy wood notes, dark fruit, rum cake, dried<br />
ginger, licorice and cola add up to an ethereal and elegant<br />
Brunello that is more smooth and silky than it is<br />
bold and bulky. Spice, sandalwood and cedar appear on<br />
the close, but it has a compact, streamlined structure.<br />
George <strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $50<br />
89<br />
SassodiSole 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
A classic Brunello with a savory, aged quality<br />
that exudes sophistication and elegance. Dried fruit,<br />
cassis, spice, old leather and rum cake form the bouquet.<br />
The wine is finely textured, sharp and clean in<br />
the mouth. Seems aged, savory and austere. The Gullà<br />
Group. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $50<br />
89<br />
Villa Poggio Salvi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
An aging wine with a garnet-ruby color<br />
and bricking at the rim. Aromas of barbecue smoke,<br />
cured meat, leather, tobacco and dark fruit give way to<br />
tight, finely textured tannins on the palate. Shaw-Ross<br />
International Importers. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $45<br />
89<br />
Vini Italiani da Sogno 2007 Carillon<br />
(Brunello di Montalcino). The subtle, subdued<br />
nose is of perfumed spice, dried red rose and currant.<br />
But there is chewy softness here and enough extraction<br />
to hold the wine firm on the palate. The struc-<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>Mag.com | 17
ture is there but the fruit definition is less apparent.<br />
Panebianco. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $60<br />
88<br />
Armilla 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
There’s a dark smoky element to this hearty<br />
Brunello that recalls cured beef, moist earth, cedar,<br />
leather and rum cake. The wine is silky and smooth,<br />
with a noticeably clean quality to the finish.Jao <strong>Wine</strong><br />
Imports. —M.L.<br />
abv: NA Price: $NA<br />
88<br />
Bellaria 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. This<br />
wine’s ripe cherry fruit and milk chocolate notes<br />
suggest softness and roundness. But the wine shows astringency<br />
and firmness on the close. Terra Verus Trading<br />
Co. LP. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $59<br />
88<br />
Casa Raia 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Dark, inky and brooding, this thickly extracted<br />
Brunello shows thick layers of ripe cherry, crème de cassis<br />
and blackberry with background tones of rum cake,<br />
ground clove, cola, leather and fresh tobacco. There’s<br />
a meaty element of bresaola or smoked bacon as well.<br />
IPO <strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.L.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $36<br />
88<br />
Col di Lamo 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Milk chocolate and sweet cherry aromas appear<br />
alongside cured meat and plump black fruit. This is a<br />
straightforward Brunello with a creamy, soft close. Vignaioli.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $65<br />
88<br />
Ferrero 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Showing youthful oak tones that still need time<br />
to integrate, this wine is a bit sour and ripe at the same<br />
time. Black cherry, tobacco, leather and spice aromas<br />
are nice, but the tannins are firm, and the wine shows a<br />
bright point of acidity on the close and a gritty, cookedfruit<br />
finish. K&L <strong>Wine</strong> Merchants. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $50<br />
88<br />
La Fiorita 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
This hearty Brunello shows a ripe, almost jammy<br />
personality with strawberry and raspberry preserve<br />
notes. There are background tones of exotic spice, vanilla<br />
and cinnamon that help support the wine’s chewy<br />
fruit. The mouthfeel is soft and velvety. Chambers &<br />
Chambers. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $NA<br />
88<br />
La Torre 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A<br />
pretty ensemble of floral tones, ripe fruit and<br />
toasted almond leads into drying touches of granite and<br />
mineral, with some root beer-like notes. Some raw berry<br />
aromas need time to soften. Shows a silky, polished<br />
feel, then turns compact, crisp, firm and clean on the<br />
close. Rosenthal <strong>Wine</strong> Merchants. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $70<br />
88<br />
Le Chiuse 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Charred almond and graham cracker notes<br />
need time to integrate. The wine is compact and lean<br />
in the mouth, with endnotes of small berry fruit, bram-<br />
18 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012<br />
ble, white almond and cola. Frederick Wildman & Sons,<br />
Ltd. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $50<br />
88<br />
Tassi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Subdued<br />
on the nose, this wine still needs to stretch<br />
its proverbial muscles. Its flavors of cherry liqueur, rum<br />
cake, blackberry and forest underbrush give voice to a<br />
clean, traditional winemaking philosophy. <strong>Wine</strong> Emporium.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $70<br />
87<br />
Livio Sassetti 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Almost completely black, this wine reveals<br />
inky-dark concentration and dark, jammy fruit. Shows<br />
power and smoky barbecue aromas of soy sauce, teriyaki,<br />
bresaola, cherry liqueur, rum cake, Spanish cedar<br />
and sticky pipe tobacco. Cured meat and savory<br />
spice as well. Seems extracted and overripe, with hard<br />
tannins.Massanois Imports. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $55<br />
2006 BRUNELLO RISERVA<br />
98<br />
Valdicava 2006 Madonna del Piano Riserva<br />
(Brunello di Montalcino). This beautiful<br />
riserva shows enormous thickness and blackness, like<br />
midnight of a new moon. The wine delivers impenetrable<br />
density, extraction, black fruit, spice, berry preserves,<br />
licorice, asphalt, ground black pepper, cherry liqueur<br />
and crème de cassis. There are seemingly no limits<br />
to the intensity and complexity here. The mouthfeel<br />
is dense, plush, firmly structured and very long. Keep<br />
this Brunello safely in your cellar 20 years or more. Vinifera<br />
Imports. Cellar Selection. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $275<br />
96<br />
Capanna 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino).<br />
This riserva is simply gorgeous, with<br />
loads of fresh fruit, mineral, spice, leather, tobacco and<br />
long aging potential. The freshness and structure is<br />
definitely present, while the mouthfeel is luscious and<br />
opulent with vanilla, espresso and dried herb or menthol<br />
overtones. Masciarelli <strong>Wine</strong> Co. Cellar Selection.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $80<br />
96<br />
Il Poggione 2006 Riserva Vigna Paganelli<br />
(Brunello di Montalcino). This vineyarddesignated<br />
riserva delivers perfumed notes of red rose,<br />
pressed flower and a bright, berry-driven bouquet. In<br />
the mouth, this is a plump, bold wine with thick concentration<br />
and loads of dark fruit such as blackberry and<br />
plum. The tannic firmness suggests at least 10 years of<br />
cellar aging. Overall, it is beautiful, elegant and bold.<br />
Terlato <strong>Wine</strong>s International. Cellar Selection. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $95<br />
96<br />
Tenuta La Fuga 2006 Le Due Sorelle<br />
Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This<br />
riserva shows gorgeous intensity and a beautiful, dense<br />
texture. There’s just enough softness to cushion the naturally<br />
high acidity of 2006. It’s firm, silky, rich, powerful<br />
and super long. In fact, the extraordinary length is what<br />
sets this wine apart. Age 10–15 years. Kobrand. Cellar<br />
Selection. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $75<br />
95<br />
Canalicchio di Sopra 2006 Riserva<br />
(Brunello di Montalcino). Here is a generous,<br />
modern and bold expression of Sangiovese Grosso<br />
whose soft layers of chocolate and dark cherry fruit help<br />
soften the natural acidity and structure of the 2006 vintage.<br />
A polished mineral note adds attractive definition<br />
on the finish. Tight and very firm; age this wine 10–20<br />
years. Vinifera Imports. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $120<br />
95<br />
Castello Banfi 2006 Poggio all’Oro Riserva<br />
(Brunello di Montalcino). Poggio all’Oro<br />
(a wine only produced in the best vintages) is a sophisticated<br />
and austere Brunello with just a tiny dab of sweet<br />
spice and red rose aromas on the bouquet. Beyond<br />
those are steady, savory pulses of tobacco, leather and<br />
dark cedar. The wine is plush, textured and rich, with a<br />
polished firmness that keeps it grounded on the palate.<br />
Banfi Vintners. Cellar Selection. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $150<br />
95<br />
Castello Romitorio 2006 Riserva (Brunello<br />
di Montalcino). Artist Sandro Chia and his<br />
team have delivered a lush, modern, approachable and<br />
opulent riserva with aromas of spice, ripe fruit, chocolate<br />
fudge and red cherry. This is a round and supple<br />
wine, with a soft, generous mouthfeel backed by firm<br />
structure and bright acidity. Vinifera Imports. Cellar<br />
Selection. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $150<br />
95<br />
Donatella Cinelli Colombini 2006 Riserva<br />
(Brunello di Montalcino). From an allfemale<br />
winery, this riserva opens with a deep garnet color.<br />
Black espresso bean, vanilla pod, toasted chestnut<br />
and dark, brooding fruit characterize the bouquet. It is<br />
bright and crisp in the mouth, with a sharply defined<br />
edge and polished tannins. Banville & Jones <strong>Wine</strong> Merchants.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $70<br />
95<br />
La Serena 2006 Riserva Gemini (Brunello<br />
di Montalcino). This is a smooth, balanced<br />
and intense wine that opens with a deep, saturated appearance<br />
and plush aromas of sweet spice, rum cake,<br />
leather, tobacco and ripe blackberry. This bold, modern<br />
expression of Brunello shows acidity and tannins that<br />
are firm, but not biting.A Marc de Grazia selection; various<br />
American importers. —M.L.<br />
abv: NA Price: $135<br />
95<br />
PianCornello 2006 Riserva (Brunello di<br />
Montalcino). Here is a very plush, dark and<br />
decadent riserva with soft and luscious tones of ripe<br />
fruit, blackberry, moist earth and pipe tobacco. The<br />
wine is smooth, dense and enduring. It can be either<br />
aged or consumed in 3–5 years. The style reflects a soft,<br />
round approach to the crisp 2006 vintage. Superior<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>s LLC. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $70<br />
95<br />
Poggio Nardone 2006 Riserva (Brunello<br />
di Montalcino). Poggio Nardone’s 2006<br />
riserva is a neverending journey of opulence and excellence.<br />
Everything is delivered in supersized intensity—<br />
the cherry, chocolate, spice, cola, cassis, leather and cedar.<br />
The mouthfeel is soft, finely textured, shapely and
long-lasting. This is a beautiful wine that will age many<br />
years to come. Michael Skurnik <strong>Wine</strong>s. Cellar Selection.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $65<br />
95<br />
Siro Pacenti 2006 Riserva (Brunello di<br />
Montalcino). Not an obvious wine by any<br />
stretch, this riserva opens slowly and bashfully to deliver<br />
small pulses of cherry, chocolate and smoked bacon<br />
that build in intensity and power as the wine gains<br />
momentum in the glass. The tannins are present but<br />
are soft and firm without any bitter astringency. Age 10<br />
years or more. Michael Skurnik <strong>Wine</strong>s. Cellar Selection.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $120<br />
95<br />
Verbena 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino).<br />
A pretty and lusciously layered<br />
Brunello with dark fruit, spice, leather, tobacco and rum<br />
cake aromas. The wine is dense and chewy, with a tight,<br />
velvety feel. Dark fruit and spice push the wine across<br />
the palate, and both the acidity and tannins are softer<br />
than in other 2006 riservas. Michael R. Downey Selections.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $75<br />
94<br />
Bellaria 2006 Assunto Riserva (Brunello<br />
di Montalcino). Dark fruit aromas of cherry,<br />
blackberry and exotic spice comprise the bouquet.<br />
There’s inky density, contrasted against delicate aromas<br />
of lead pencil, cola and cured meat. The wine is plush,<br />
rich and extracted, with dusty, firm tannins. Terra Verus<br />
Trading Co. LP. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $85<br />
94<br />
Castelgiocondo 2006 Riserva (Brunello<br />
di Montalcino). An intense and opulent<br />
Brunello, with bold brush strokes of ripe cherry, blackberry,<br />
chocolate, coffee and mocha. Concentrated fruit<br />
and firm tannins are marked by a pretty touch of dusty<br />
mineral on the finish. Folio Fine <strong>Wine</strong> Partners. —M.L.<br />
abv: NA Price: $120<br />
94<br />
Collosorbo 2006 Riserva (Brunello di<br />
Montalcino). This successful riserva displays<br />
opulence and a bold, modern style that focuses on<br />
bright cherry and savory spice aromas. The wine is loaded<br />
with density and richness, and combines a ripe soft<br />
feel with a lively berries on the finish. Frank Johnson<br />
Selections. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $75<br />
94<br />
Cupano 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino).<br />
Sweet oak tones of cinnamon, ripe<br />
cherry and raspberry are delivered via a beautifully intense<br />
bouquet. This is a Brunello with tight tannins,<br />
fresh acidity and solid structure. Verdeor Select Vintages.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $130<br />
94<br />
Fornacina 2006 Riserva (Brunello di<br />
Montalcino). Opens with dark concentration<br />
and extra flesh and density in terms of texture. There’s<br />
an extra padding of softness that helps buffer the vintage’s<br />
high acidity and natural firmness. Not ready to<br />
drink for another 10 years at least. Villa Italia. Cellar<br />
Selection. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $92<br />
94<br />
Gianni Brunelli 2006 Riserva (Brunello<br />
di Montalcino). This interpretation of Sangiovese<br />
Grosso is clean, polished, ripe and elegant. It<br />
opens with dark concentration and berry notes of cassis<br />
and candied cherry, and then rum cake, leather and tobacco<br />
show up on the finish, backed by firm tannins and<br />
bright acidity. Acid Inc Selections. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $75<br />
94<br />
Il Poggiolo E. Cosimi 2006 Il Mio Brunello<br />
Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Inky color,<br />
with a broad array of aromas, including earth, candied<br />
fruit, plum cake and cinnamon spice. Smooth and<br />
luscious in the mouth, where its tight structure shows<br />
promising potential for longevity. Massanois Imports.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $110<br />
94<br />
La Fortuna 2006 Riserva (Brunello di<br />
Montalcino). This riserva is silky, firm and polished,<br />
with bright fruit nuances of wild berry, almond<br />
skin, cola and lingering menthol overtones. The mouthfeel<br />
is bright and crisp, with a very fine, smooth texture.<br />
Dusty mineral notes appear on the finish. MHW, Ltd.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $NA<br />
94<br />
La Gerla 2006 Riserva gli Angeli (Brunello<br />
di Montalcino). Always a beautiful wine,<br />
this edition of Riserva gli Angeli is austere, sophisticated,<br />
lean and elegant. It shows a fine, silky texture with<br />
bright aromas of wild berry, cola and mint. There are<br />
also interesting tertiary aromas of leather, dusty mineral<br />
and cured meat at the back. Southern <strong>Wine</strong> and Spirits.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $70<br />
94<br />
La Poderina 2006 Poggio Abate Riserva<br />
(Brunello di Montalcino). There’s a sassy,<br />
spicy quality here, with clove and spice, cola, root beer<br />
and black licorice. Smooth, dark extraction with bold<br />
structure. —M.L.<br />
abv: NA Price: $NA<br />
94<br />
Mocali 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino).<br />
This Brunello delivers an intense<br />
and complex bouquet featuring beautifully integrated<br />
aromas of dark fruit, spice, leather and tobacco. Tight<br />
tannins promise a long future ahead.Michael Skurnik<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>s. Cellar Selection. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $65<br />
94<br />
Podere Brizio 2006 Riserva (Brunello di<br />
Montalcino). This wine has some big shoulders.<br />
There’s a dusty, aged quality, with sophisticated,<br />
silky tannins and tertiary aromas of black licorice, dried<br />
tobacco, peppercorn and dried berry fruit. It’s firm,<br />
tight and compact; age 10 more years. A Marc de Grazia<br />
selection; various American importers. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $120<br />
94<br />
Poggio il Castellare 2006 Pian Bossolino<br />
Riseva (Brunello di Montalcino). A<br />
dark inky wine with a bold garnet color and some am-<br />
ber highlights on the rim. The wine is soft, plush and<br />
rich with candied fruit, leather, spice, licorice, crushed<br />
mineral and asphalt. Margate <strong>Wine</strong> & Spirit Company.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $85<br />
94<br />
Quattroventi 2006 Riserva (Brunello di<br />
Montalcino). This beautiful riserva opens with<br />
dark concentration and bold berry notes spanning from<br />
cassis to blackberry. It’s a ripe, extracted wine with savory<br />
spice and cured meat aromas that fill in the back.<br />
Crushed black pepper and cardamom also make a brief,<br />
but lively, appearance. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $NA<br />
94<br />
San Filippo di Giannelli 2006 Le Lucére<br />
Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Dense,<br />
bold and beautiful, with notes of plush cherry, blackberry,<br />
clove, cinnamon, cola and dried rosemary. Polished,<br />
with a dusty, silky feel to the long finish.A Marc de Grazia<br />
selection; various American importers. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $110<br />
94<br />
San Lorenzo 2006 Bramante Riserva<br />
(Brunello di Montalcino). From one of Tuscany’s<br />
most celebrated wine areas, this luscious wine is<br />
soft, beautifully textured and plush. It shows ripe red<br />
fruit, plus leather, tobacco, sweet cinnamon and marzipan<br />
on the bouquet.Vos Vinum Importing Ltd. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $NA<br />
94<br />
San Polino 2006 Riserva (Brunello di<br />
Montalcino). A rich and sophisticated wine,<br />
with loads of dark fruit and exotic spice. It’s bright rubygarnet<br />
appearance, with bright acidity and a fresh, lively<br />
finish. T. Edward <strong>Wine</strong>s Ltd. Cellar Selection. —M.L.<br />
abv: NA Price: $85<br />
94<br />
San Polo 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino).<br />
This is a beautiful wine with opulent<br />
aromas of chocolate fudge, cherry, vanilla bean and<br />
bright berry fruit. Yet in the mouth, it’s is very focused,<br />
with enough structure and acidity to promise a long future.<br />
The finish is silky and fine. <strong>Wine</strong>bow. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $90<br />
94<br />
Tenuta Vitanza 2006 Riserva (Brunello<br />
di Montalcino). The aromas feature beautiful<br />
tones of black mineral, licorice, peppercorn and ripe<br />
fruit. This is a dark, brooding Brunello with an elegant,<br />
dry nose and layers of opulence that build momentum.<br />
Overall, it’s round, rich and well structured. Drink after<br />
2018. Vintners Estate Direct Importing. Cellar Selection.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $75<br />
93<br />
Camigliano 2006 Gualto Riserva (Brunello<br />
di Montalcino). Holds back just a bit initially,<br />
but then evolves slowly and steadily. Delivers a<br />
very firm, polished and linear feel in the mouth. Dusty<br />
aromas of crushed stone and crushed white pepper are<br />
backed by cola, cassis and red currant. An elegant and<br />
sophisticated Brunello. Vias Imports. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $90<br />
93<br />
Canneta 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino).<br />
Well etched, defined and crisp, this is<br />
a strong, determined wine with loads of power, acidity<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>Mag.com | 19
and firmness. The wine shows all the criteria for a long<br />
cellar life, softening slowly as the wine evolves. Age 10–<br />
20 more years. Orvino Imports & Distribution. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $49<br />
93<br />
Capanne Ricci 2006 Riserva (Brunello di<br />
Montalcino). A plump and juicy Brunello with<br />
bold, fresh fruit and loads of aromatic intensity. Cherry,<br />
plum and blackberry are backed by evolved tones of<br />
leather, spice and cola. Shows delicate details of wild<br />
berry and almond paste on the close. Smooth and velvety.<br />
Montcalm <strong>Wine</strong> Importers. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $60<br />
93<br />
Caprili 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino).<br />
A lovely riserva, with bold, opulent<br />
notes of cherry and plum. Leather, tobacco, rum cake,<br />
cola and dried sage add complexity.Admiralty Beverage.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $75<br />
93<br />
Fattoria La Lecciaia 2006 Riserva<br />
(Brunello di Montalcino). Opens with a dry,<br />
dusty firmness that comes through both on the nose and<br />
in the mouth. This is fresh and tightly woven with very<br />
fine aromas of cassis, spice, crushed stone and milled<br />
white pepper. Very firm and tight; age 10 years. Monsieur<br />
Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $52<br />
93<br />
Fattoria La Lecciaia 2006 Vigna Manapetra<br />
Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino).<br />
This riserva opens with a textured, granular mouthfeel<br />
that is packed tight with leather, tobacco, dried berry<br />
and cola flavors. The close is fresh and menthol-driven.<br />
Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $58<br />
93<br />
Fuligni 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino).<br />
Sweet spice and dark fruit aromas offer<br />
all the telltale signs of a top-notch riserva. The wine<br />
is bright with etched acidity and strong tannins. Let it<br />
age 10 years or more. Defined, compact mouthfeel.<br />
Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $153<br />
93<br />
Il Poggiolo E. Cosimi 2006 Beato Riserva<br />
(Brunello di Montalcino). Pleasurable and<br />
modern, with a dense opulence that makes a wine like<br />
this attractive on so many levels. It delivers deep layers<br />
of ripe fruit, blackberry, vanilla bean, espresso and black<br />
pepper. Enotec Imports, Inc. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $90<br />
93<br />
La Mannella 2006 Riserva (Brunello<br />
di Montalcino). Tight, linear and compact.<br />
Clean, crisp and precise. Small berry aromas of cassis,<br />
wild berry and cherry are framed by firm, dusty tannins<br />
and a touch of toasted oak. Casa Torelli . —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $75<br />
93<br />
Lazzeretti 2006 Riserva (Brunello di<br />
Montalcino). Sophisticated, with tertiary aromas<br />
of crushed mineral, asphalt, cola, dried mint, wild<br />
berry and cassis. On the palate, it’s tight, compact and<br />
linear, with a long, polished finish. Pacific <strong>Wine</strong> Distributors.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $NA<br />
20 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012<br />
93<br />
Le Chiuse 2006 Riserva (Brunello di<br />
Montalcino). This beautiful Brunello opens<br />
with lavish tones of dark fruit, exotic spice, espresso<br />
bean and crushed black pepper. The mouthfeel is interesting<br />
because it starts off bold and rich, but ends<br />
with the focused or chiseled sharpness that is typical of<br />
Sangiovese Grosso. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $95<br />
93<br />
Lisini 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino).<br />
Shows a pretty, polished nose with dusty<br />
mineral notes backed by elegant tones of dried berry,<br />
spice and leather. Nice complexity and balance. Loads<br />
of tobacco-like sensations on the close. Empson (USA)<br />
Ltd. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $118<br />
93<br />
Mocali 2006 Vigna delle Raunate Riserva<br />
(Brunello di Montalcino). This riserva is<br />
loaded with fruit. It’s a dark, inky wine that oozes black<br />
cherry, exotic spice, leather and moist pipe tobacco.<br />
After the tightness and firmness of the mouthfeel, the<br />
wine offers a playful endnote of blackberry jam. Michael<br />
Skurnik <strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $50<br />
93<br />
Molino di Sant’Antimo 2006 Riserva<br />
(Brunello di Montalcino). Linear, focused<br />
and bright, with rich, fleshy fruit in the form of cherry,<br />
blackberry and spiced plum cake. This is a fleshy pretty<br />
wine with an elegant mouthfeel. Delectatio <strong>Wine</strong>s.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $55<br />
93<br />
Piccini 2006 Villa al Cortile Riserva<br />
(Brunello di Montalcino). Black cherry and<br />
coffee notes come to the fore and are followed by softer<br />
layers of spice, clove and cardamom. Pressed roses too.<br />
Firm and linear in the mouth with a tight tannic bite on<br />
the close. Drink after 2018. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $60<br />
93<br />
Pinino 2006 Pinone Riserva (Brunello di<br />
Montalcino). This wine offers loads of coffee<br />
and soft intensity, with ripe fruit, blackberry, rum cake<br />
and exotic spice. That extra roundness works well with<br />
this wine’s high acidity and tannic structure. USA <strong>Wine</strong><br />
Imports. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $47<br />
93<br />
Poggio Antico 2006 Riserva (Brunello di<br />
Montalcino). Sharply defined aromas of spice,<br />
chiseled mineral, dried tobacco and cassis open the<br />
bouquet of this dark, concentrated wine. There’s a floral<br />
note of spicy potpourri and cinnamon stick, tight tannins<br />
and bright acidity.The Sorting Table. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $140<br />
93<br />
San Felice 2006 Campogiovanni Il Quercione<br />
Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino).<br />
Dark, brooding, thick, masculine, this wine shows loads<br />
of big Brunello personality. It offers thick concentration,<br />
a velvety and plush mouthfeel, followed by dark<br />
flavors of blackberry, prune, spice, leather, cedar and<br />
pipe tobacco. Premium Brands. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $135<br />
93<br />
Terralsole 2006 Riserva (Brunello di<br />
Montalcino). Pressed rose, slightly dusty mineral<br />
shadings, spice and black fruit make up the bouquet<br />
of this elegant, harmonious wine. This expression<br />
is astringent and firm, with bright acidity and a solid tannic<br />
backbone. Let it soften with more cellar aging. Terralsole.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $80<br />
92<br />
Altesino 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino).<br />
This Brunello Riserva is defined by a<br />
layer of coffee and espresso that peels back nicely to reveal<br />
dark fruit, cassis, leather and tobacco. It’s smooth,<br />
ripe, fresh and structured. <strong>Wine</strong>bow. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $80<br />
92<br />
Brunelli Martoccia 2006 Riserva (Brunello<br />
di Montalcino). This Brunello offers interesting<br />
complexity in its cola and balsam notes. The wine<br />
has a big, bright intensity, with crisp acidity and a lean,<br />
compact mouthfeel that’s rather austere and stern. Ultimately<br />
the wine is more generous on the nose than<br />
in the mouth and finishes with lasting freshness. Small<br />
Vineyards LLC. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $80<br />
92<br />
Cantina di Montalcino 2006 Riserva<br />
(Brunello di Montalcino). A traditional style<br />
of riserva, this wine shows aromas of spice, candied berry,<br />
smoked bacon, cinnamon, white pepper and dried<br />
sage. There’s also a floral element of red rose or lavender.<br />
It is light and crisp, with a firm finish. <strong>Wine</strong> Wave.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $115<br />
92<br />
Fattoria dei Barbi 2006 Riserva (Brunello<br />
di Montalcino). This brunello offers a pretty<br />
bouquet, showing elegance and restraint at the same<br />
time. There are layers of small berry fruit, spice and<br />
leather, with dusty, dry tannins. The wine’s overall astringency<br />
should soften with time.Pasternak <strong>Wine</strong> Imports.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $90<br />
92<br />
Innocenti 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino).<br />
The wine gives an impression of being<br />
supple and soft, at least on the nose, but you can feel the<br />
firm structure in the mouth. The quality of the tannins<br />
is dusty, firm and unyielding at this early stage. Drink in<br />
5–10 years. Mission <strong>Wine</strong> Company. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $NA<br />
92<br />
La Collina dei Lecci 2006 Riserva<br />
(Brunello di Montalcino). This wine presents<br />
a dark wall of inky concentration with aromas of<br />
ripe fruit and raw cherry. There are earthy tones in the<br />
background that are characteristic of Sangiovese, with<br />
floral and menthol nuances as well. The tannins are firm<br />
and polished. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $52<br />
92<br />
La Fiorita 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino).<br />
A Brunello on the bold and ripe side,<br />
with smoked bacon, blackberry, sweet spice, rum cake<br />
and black licorice. It shows impressive staying power.
It’s tannic, firm and ready for a long aging future ahead.<br />
Chambers & Chambers. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $NA<br />
92<br />
La Fornace 2006 Riserva (Brunello di<br />
Montalcino). This Brunello opens with floral<br />
notes of pressed red rose and clay soil. Bright fruit,<br />
blackberry, leather and tobacco aromas are framed by<br />
firm tannins. Vignaioli. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $130<br />
92<br />
Marchesato degli Aleramici 2006 Riserva<br />
(Brunello di Montalcino). There’s an exotic,<br />
spicy element here that gives this riserva a unique and<br />
compelling quality. Coffee, espresso and bitter chocolate<br />
also identify it. The mouthfeel is dry and tight,<br />
suggesting long aging potential. More than fruit, this<br />
wine shows tertiary aromas and crushed mineral in the<br />
mouth. Fedway Imports. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $75<br />
92<br />
Podere Paganico 2006 Riserva (Brunello<br />
di Montalcino). Notes of root beer, dried sage,<br />
wild berry and bramble with menthol overtones define<br />
this wine. There are subtle wood tones of spice, clove<br />
and black pepper, and the finish is crisp and streamlined<br />
with a touch of cherry sweetness. Saranty Imports.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $50<br />
92<br />
Talenti 2006 Pian di Conte Riserva<br />
(Brunello di Montalcino). This wine offers<br />
some cola, sage and fresh menthol notes. It’s an elegant<br />
package with aromatic intensity, balanced acidity<br />
and firm, tight structure. The wine is lean, compact and<br />
tight and needs another 5–10 years to come into focus.<br />
Robert Chadderdon Selections. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $NA<br />
92<br />
Tassi 2006 Franci Riserva (Brunello di<br />
Montalcino). This unique expression of Sangiovese<br />
Grosso is influenced by oak tones to produce<br />
aromas of Spanish cedar and sandalwood, giving the<br />
bouquet a rich personality. Bold fruit tones of cherry<br />
and blackberry also come into focus, and the wine is surprisingly<br />
firm in the mouth. <strong>Wine</strong> Emporium. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $NA<br />
92<br />
Tenuta di Sesta 2006 Riserva (Brunello di<br />
Montalcino). This elegant Brunello opens to a<br />
lean, streamlined style. The garnet color is true to the<br />
Sangiovese variety and so are the wine’s aromas of forest<br />
berry, earth and pressed flower. You’ll like the bright,<br />
soft close, with its tiny touch of fruity sweetness. Monsieur<br />
Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $140<br />
92<br />
Tenute Niccolai 2006 Podere Bellarina<br />
Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Huge,<br />
dark concentration makes this wine almost too much of<br />
a good thing. It offers inky density, with cured meat,<br />
spice, dark fruit, prune, blackberry and blackberry pie.<br />
Its bold astringency needs more time to soften. Angelini<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>. —M.L.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $90<br />
92<br />
Tornesi 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino).<br />
This Brunello shows a feminine and<br />
bright personality, with aromas of leather, small berry<br />
fruit, cassis and licorice. It’s structured and crisp, with<br />
good freshness and a silky mouthfeel. Fourcade &<br />
Hecht <strong>Wine</strong> Selections. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $80<br />
92<br />
Uccelliera 2006 Riserva (Brunello di<br />
Montalcino). Always a knockout Brunello,<br />
Uccelliera’s 2006 Riserva seems on the ripe side, with<br />
jammy fruit aromas and savory beef jerky notes at the<br />
back. The firmness and natural acidity associated with<br />
Sangiovese is present, but the aromas show hints of candied<br />
fruit and spicy plum cake. A Marc de Grazia selection;<br />
various American importers. —M.L.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $65<br />
92<br />
Villa Poggio Salvi 2006 Riserva (Brunello<br />
di Montalcino). This is a broad, masculine<br />
Brunello with layers of spice, leather, Spanish cedar,<br />
cola and cured meat. The mouthfeel is streamlined<br />
and elegant, with crisp acidity and a solidly tannic base.<br />
Shaw-Ross International Importers. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $60<br />
91<br />
Collelceto 2006 Riserva (Brunello di<br />
Montalcino). Warm spice and dark fruit tones<br />
with cured meat, bresaola, licorice, black pepper, leather<br />
and tobacco define this expression. The wine is plush<br />
rich, structured and firm.Montecastelli Selections.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $60<br />
91<br />
Fattoi 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino).<br />
This dark wine opens with bright<br />
fruit aromas that are soft and straightforward. The wine<br />
presents bold cherry, blackberry and spicy rum cake flavors,<br />
and a mouthfeel that is fresh and round. The finish<br />
is dominated by chewy berry fruit. Tricana Imports.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $75<br />
91<br />
La Palazzetta 2006 Riserva (Brunello di<br />
Montalcino). There’s a bright, pungent, inyour-face<br />
aroma of dried fruit and black currant. Maybe<br />
a touch of dried apple, too. This wine offers dark concentration<br />
with loads of density and intensity. Plush, rich<br />
and nicely framed by firm tannins and a drying mineral<br />
note, it shows positive evolution in the glass. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $NA<br />
91<br />
Le Gode 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino).<br />
A sweet nose of oak spice, almond<br />
marzipan and cherry cola makes for a nice first impression.<br />
It boasts loads of balsam intensity with cola, ginger<br />
and black licorice. It’s ripe, chewy and covers the palate<br />
while delivering tight structure on the long finish. Conexport.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $90<br />
91<br />
Le Macioche 2006 Riserva (Brunello di<br />
Montalcino). Linear and bright, with firm<br />
structure and smoky hints of leather, tobacco and candied<br />
fruit. This is a bold, austere Brunello, with notes<br />
of root beer and white pepper on the close. Vintner Select.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $NA<br />
91<br />
Palazzo 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino).<br />
Opens with dark, savory layers of<br />
Indian spice, candied fruit, plum, licorice and graham<br />
cracker. The texture is thick, viscous and rich, but a<br />
bright touch of acidity washes over the palate and keeps<br />
it refreshed. The endnote features tertiary aromas of<br />
leather, cola and crushed mineral. Bedford International.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $105<br />
91<br />
Poggio Rubino 2006 Riserva (Brunello<br />
di Montalcino). Neutral on the nose with<br />
smoked ham and dark leather tones, this wine shows<br />
tertiary aromas of wild mushroom, earth and black licorice.<br />
It has a ripe, round quality to its fruit, with firm<br />
structure. Very tangy, bright and refreshing on the close.<br />
. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $NA<br />
91<br />
SassodiSole 2006 Riserva (Brunello di<br />
Montalcino). This Brunello has a warm, earthy<br />
personality embodied by its wild mushroom, leather, tobacco<br />
and ripe fruit notes. There’s crème de cassis and<br />
cherry liqueur as well. The wine’s mouthfeel is bright<br />
and crisp. The Gullà Group. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $88<br />
91<br />
Tenuta Oliveto 2006 Riserva (Brunello di<br />
Montalcino). This wine definitely shows a ripe<br />
side in its cured meat, tobacco, sandalwood, smoked<br />
bacon and old spice. Delivers a rich, plump feel in the<br />
mouth, backed by gritty tannins and bright acidity. Despite<br />
the cooler vintage, this wine packs power, heat and<br />
a tiny touch of sweetness on the close. IMA Imports.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $79<br />
90<br />
Collemattoni 2006 Vigna Fontelontano<br />
Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This<br />
vineyard-designated Riserva shows a broad portfolio<br />
of tertiary aromas with crushed stone, licorice, cassis,<br />
leather and smoked meat. It is evolved and silky,<br />
with a fresh, crisp close and enough complexity to ride<br />
smoothly across the palate. Vignaioli. —M.L.<br />
abv: NA Price: $79<br />
90<br />
Sesti 2006 Phenomena Riserva (Brunello<br />
di Montalcino). There’s a ripe, cooked quality<br />
with black fruit, toasted nut, cured meat and wild mushroom<br />
to this expression. The fruit tones are candied and<br />
mature, and the wine offers a ean and compact mouthfeel<br />
with a two-fold blast of acidity and tannin.Kermit<br />
Lynch <strong>Wine</strong> Merchant. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $NA<br />
90<br />
Terre Nere 2006 Riserva (Brunello di<br />
Montalcino). Ripe aromas of dark fruit, crème<br />
de cassis and cherry liqueur. The wine is thick, juicy and<br />
chewy, with a touch of tightness or astringency on the<br />
close.Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $50<br />
89<br />
La Torre 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino).<br />
This wine has a more vinous nose with<br />
bold cherry and raspberry aromas followed by leather,<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>Mag.com | 21
spice and Spanish cedar. Textured and firm, bright and<br />
fresh. Rosenthal <strong>Wine</strong> Merchants. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $80<br />
89<br />
Podere La Vigna 2006 Riserva (Brunello<br />
di Montalcino). This Brunello shows aromas<br />
of leather and cured meat without much fresh fruit to<br />
hold it up. The structure and acidity is there, along with<br />
tertiary aromas of crushed mineral, asphalt, candied<br />
fruit and dried sage. Royalty Importers. —M.L.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $90<br />
88<br />
Livio Sassetti 2006 Pertimali Riserva<br />
(Brunello di Montalcino). This wine feels<br />
wrapped in sunshine and warmth. There’s ripe fruit,<br />
plus leather, barbecue sauce, cured meat and blackcurrant.<br />
A soft, plush mouthfeel with a firm tannic backbone<br />
lends sensations of dryness and power. Massanois<br />
Imports. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $85<br />
87<br />
Marchesi Antinori 2006 Pian delle Vigne<br />
Riserva Vignaferrovia (Brunello di Montalcino).<br />
This wine opens with some volatility that<br />
shows up as dried apple skin, strawberry jam, apricot<br />
and dusty earth. It offers polished tannins and bright,<br />
buoyant feel. There are loads of ripe strawberry on the<br />
close. Ste. Michelle <strong>Wine</strong> Estates. —M.L.<br />
abv: NA Price: $130<br />
2006 BRUNELLO<br />
98<br />
Casanova di Neri 2006 Cerretalto<br />
(Brunello di Montalcino). Cerretalto delivers<br />
aromas of natural complexity and oak-driven tones<br />
of cinnamon, clove, chocolate and exotic spice. The<br />
fruit is dark, dense and ripe. There’s extra roundness<br />
and density in the mouth that holds together the wine’s<br />
firm tannins and its crisp, acidic component. Hold 10–<br />
20 more years. Dalla Terra <strong>Wine</strong>ry Direct. Cellar Selection.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $215<br />
95<br />
La Rasina 2006 Il Divasco (Brunello di<br />
Montalcino). La Rasina has hit a winning formula<br />
with Il Divasco. This wine is bold and opulent,<br />
with lavish layers of bright fruit, spice, cola and leather.<br />
It is one of those Brunellos that seems to have melted<br />
chocolate fudge at its core with a round, soft mouthfeel.<br />
Impressive intensity and complexity are both there.<br />
Montecastelli Selections. Editors’ Choice. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $75<br />
94<br />
Tenimenti Angelini 2006 Vigna Spuntali<br />
Val di Suga (Brunello di Montalcino). This<br />
full-bodied wine opens with compelling aromas of black<br />
fruit, smoked bacon, leather, cinnamon and crushed<br />
clove. There’s a sassy, spicy characteristic here that is<br />
further underlined by the wine’s natural sweetness and<br />
roundness. Vin Divino. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $106<br />
94<br />
Villa Le Prata 2006 Selezione Massimo<br />
(Brunello di Montalcino). Selezione Massimo<br />
is a dense and concentrated Brunello that delivers<br />
dark fruit, espresso, cola, blackberry and licorice. It’s a<br />
beautiful interpretation of the Montalcino territory, ex-<br />
22 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012<br />
ecuted with a bold, modern flair. Oak tones characterize<br />
the wine. Vinity <strong>Wine</strong> Company. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $100<br />
93<br />
Tenuta Vitanza 2006 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
This well extracted wine is loaded with<br />
ripe fruit, cassis, tobacco, leather and chocolate-covered<br />
cherry. The wine is still young and astringent, so<br />
let those tannins soften over the next 5–10 years. Vedi<br />
Vintners Estates Direct Importing . —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $60<br />
93<br />
Tenuta Vitanza 2006 Tradizione (Brunello<br />
di Montalcino). Tradizione is a soft and luscious<br />
Brunello with inky dark concentration and intense<br />
aromas of dark fruit, rum cake and currant. The wine<br />
is smooth and supple, with a finish that can be counted<br />
in minutes. Vedi Vintners Estates Direct Importing<br />
. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $46<br />
92<br />
Casato1 2006 Voliero (Brunello di Montalcino).<br />
Brunello Voliero is a dark and savory<br />
wine that is packed tight with red berry, cherry liqueur,<br />
toasted spice, leather and lasting tones of dried tobacco<br />
and cigar box. Three years of aging in large oak casks<br />
has helped shape a soft, velvety and polished mouthfeel.<br />
Michael Skurnik <strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.L.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $55<br />
92<br />
Il Valentiano 2006 Campo di Marzo<br />
(Brunello di Montalcino). Darkly concentrated,<br />
boldly aromatic and intense, this pretty Brunello<br />
delivers modern aromas of chocolate, espresso bean,<br />
ripe fruit, blackberry and rum cake. The mouthfeel is<br />
smooth and rich, and the wine maintains its momentum<br />
thanks to the softness of its texture. Vidalco International,<br />
LLC. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $60<br />
92<br />
Tenuta Carlina 2006 La Togata (Brunello<br />
di Montalcino). This vintage of La Togata has<br />
a dark, brooding garnet color, and compelling aromas<br />
of ripe fruit, blackberry, rum cake, spice, leather, dried<br />
ginger and pipe tobacco. If offers a soft, plush texture<br />
and a velvety finish. Panebianco. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $72<br />
91<br />
Coldisole 2006 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
Coldisole opens with oak-driven aromas of coffee<br />
bean, smoked bacon, dark spice and savory bresaola<br />
and fruit aromas that resemble dried prune, cassis and<br />
plum cake. The wine excels in the mouth where it displays<br />
silky, polished feel. W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $55<br />
91<br />
Ruffino 2006 Greppone Mazzi (Brunello<br />
di Montalcino). This Brunello opens with elegantly<br />
on the nose, with small berry, cassis and wild<br />
blueberry aromas. Beyond the steady, feminine bouquet<br />
is a wine that has power, determination and personality,<br />
with savory endnotes of spice and fresh pipe<br />
tobacco. Icon Estates. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $79<br />
91<br />
Tenute Niccolai 2006 Podere Bellarina<br />
(Brunello di Montalcino). This 2006 Brunello<br />
delivers loads of rich intensity, chocolate fudge, ripe<br />
cherry and tobacco, with soft, velvety tones at the back.<br />
It’s a bold, masculine wine with an attractive personality.<br />
Angelini <strong>Wine</strong>. —M.L.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $70<br />
90<br />
Livio Sassetti 2006 Pertimali (Brunello di<br />
Montalcino). The 2006 Pertimali tastes better<br />
than the 2006 Riserva and the 2007 Brunello. This<br />
wine is uniquely characterized by bold freshness and<br />
richness showing the clean and precise quality of Sangiovese<br />
fruit. The aftertaste is long, spicy and firm. Give<br />
this wine 5–10 more years. Massanois Imports. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $55<br />
89<br />
Vini Italiani da Sogno 2006 Carillon<br />
(Brunello di Montalcino). Carillon opens<br />
with a dark, concentrated appearance and smoky aromas<br />
of barbecue, spice and toasted oak. The fruit element<br />
comes forth on the palate, revealing the wine’s<br />
bright cherry and crème de cassis notes. Panebianco.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $60<br />
88<br />
Lisini 2006 Ugolaia (Brunello di Montalcino).<br />
Ugolaia is a delicious and attractive<br />
wine, but there’s no denying that the overripe aromas of<br />
strawberry and raspberry jam subtract from the wine’s<br />
overall sophistication. The mouthfeel is soft, round and<br />
plush. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $140<br />
88<br />
Villa I Cipressi 2006 Zebras (Brunello di<br />
Montalcino). Lean and light, with aromas of<br />
muddled fruit and spice. This wine does not have huge<br />
staying power but the wine does offer a simple, clean<br />
close, with a touch of fresh acidity. A.I. Selections .<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $70<br />
OTHER BRUNELLOS<br />
92<br />
Col d’Orcia 2004 Poggio al Vento (Brunello<br />
di Montalcino). Poggio al Vento (from the<br />
2004 vintage) shows smoky and savory notes of forest<br />
floor, bramble, cured meat, barbecue spice and teriyaki<br />
sauce. The wine is compact in the mouth, with polished<br />
tannins. Palm Bay International. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $150<br />
92<br />
Rendola 2004 Brunello di Montalcino.<br />
An older vintage, the 2004 Rendola opens with<br />
notes of ripe fruit, pressed flowers, exotic spice, leather<br />
and licorice, with a clean, polished mouthfeel. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $NA<br />
88<br />
Castello di Vicarello 2005 Carlo Baccheschi<br />
Berti Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino).<br />
This garnet-colored riserva opens with savory<br />
spice, leather notes, with aromas of cured meat and barbecue<br />
smoke. The 2005 vintage was a warm one, and<br />
the ripeness of the fruit is evident on the bouquet and<br />
in the soft texture of the mouthfeel. Drink now. Omniwines<br />
Distribution. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $NA
ROSSO DI MONTALCINO<br />
91<br />
Capanne Ricci 2010 Rosso di Montalcino.<br />
This Rosso boasts impressively intense and<br />
pure Sangiovese aromas. The wine is compackt, with<br />
red berry, rum cake, dried rosemary, ginger and spice.<br />
It’s a small step away from the quality of Brunello at a<br />
fraction of the price. Montcalm <strong>Wine</strong> Importers. Best<br />
Buy. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $15<br />
90<br />
Canalicchio di Sopra 2010 Rosso di<br />
Montalcino. This wine is a bright, plump and<br />
succulent expression of Sangiovese Grosso, showing<br />
easy, crisp structure enhanced by bold aromas of plum,<br />
leather and spice. There’s a silky, fine nature to the polished<br />
tannins. Vinifera Imports. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $30<br />
90<br />
Caprili 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. This<br />
impressive Rosso offers lush aromas of rum<br />
cake, coffee, spice, pipe tobacco and dark fruit. It shows<br />
warm, earthy or leathery notes in the mouth that are<br />
rounded off by fresh Sangiovese acidity. Admiralty Beverage.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $15<br />
90<br />
Castello Romitorio 2010 Rosso di Montalcino.<br />
This wien is rich in balsam notes of eucalyptus,<br />
dried rosemary, ginger and cherry cola. The<br />
bouquet is distinctive, and the wine ends with a bright,<br />
fresh finish. Vinifera Imports. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $27<br />
90<br />
San Felice 2010 Campogiovanni (Rosso<br />
di Montalcino). Perfect for pairing with<br />
grilled meat, white beans or hearty pasta dishes, this<br />
bright Rosso di Montalcino opens with notes of plush<br />
cherry, with almond, spice, leather and tobacco. The<br />
mouthfeel is characterized by toasted oak notes and<br />
bright acidity. Premium Brands. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $23<br />
90<br />
Siro Pacenti 2010 Rosso di Montalcino.<br />
This balanced Rosso delivers intense aromas of<br />
ripe fruit, blackberry, spice, sweet cherry and rum cake.<br />
The wine’s consistency is rich and smooth, with a refreshing<br />
touch of acidity on the close. Michael Skurnik<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $30<br />
90<br />
Tenimenti Angelini 2010 Val di Suga<br />
(Rosso di Montalcino). This impressive Rosso<br />
delivers a silky and smooth texture, with aromas of<br />
bright fruit backed by toasted nut and spice. The balance<br />
and overall harmony of the mouthfeel are what set<br />
this wine apart. Vin Divino. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $21<br />
89<br />
Altesino 2010 Rosso di Montalcino.<br />
Here’s a soft, round Rosso that imparts fresh<br />
tones of cherry and blackberry as it rolls across the palate.<br />
The wine is simple, crisp and nicely textured with<br />
smooth, silky lines. <strong>Wine</strong>bow. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $25<br />
89<br />
Castelli Martinozzi 2010 Rosso di Montalcino.<br />
Here’s a really pretty Rosso with a<br />
bright, fruit-driven bouquet. It opens with notes of<br />
raspberry and wild berry, with background tones of cinnamon<br />
and crushed clove. The finish is acidic and crisp.<br />
Alnam <strong>Wine</strong> for All. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $18<br />
89<br />
Castiglion del Bosco 2010 Rosso di Montalcino.<br />
From an excellent vintage, this bright<br />
Rosso offers creamy aromas of espresso mousse and<br />
milk chocolate, with steady pulses of cherry and blackberry<br />
at the back. The wine’s fresh acidity pairs well<br />
with cheesy pasta or pizza. USA <strong>Wine</strong> West. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $25<br />
89<br />
Fattoria La Lecciaia 2010 Rosso di Montalcino.<br />
Excellent growing conditions and<br />
quality fruit shape this fresh, food wine that pairs well<br />
with pasta or meat dish. The bouquet is redolent of<br />
black cherry, plum, chocolate mocha and spice. Monsieur<br />
Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $15<br />
89<br />
Fossacolle 2009 Rosso di Montalcino.<br />
This plump Rosso di Montalcino offers ripe,<br />
succulent fruit notes of black cherry, blueberry and<br />
fresh plum, rounded by toasted espresso and almond.<br />
All that results in a soft, round and smooth mouthfeel.<br />
Vias Imports. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $25<br />
89<br />
Geografico Castello Tricerchi 2010 Rosso<br />
di Montalcino. Here’s a bright and fresh<br />
Rosso that delivers notes of red cherry, raspberry and<br />
cassis. The wine has a smoky element on the finish that<br />
intensifies an otherwise smooth mouthfeel. Monarchia<br />
Matt International. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $NA<br />
89<br />
Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi 2010 Castelgiocondo<br />
Campo ai Sassi (Rosso di<br />
Montalcino). From Montalcino’s picturesque Castelgiocondo<br />
estate, Campo ai Sassi (“field of stones”) is a<br />
soft, plush Rosso, with aromas of black cherry, vanilla<br />
and mocha. The wine imparts a round, velvety feel in<br />
the mouth, with a steady, simple personality. Folio Fine<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> Partners. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $26<br />
89<br />
Poggio Nardone 2009 Rosso di Montalcino.<br />
This pretty Rosso di Montalcino opens with<br />
a concentrated appearance and aromas of ripe fruit,<br />
spice, toasted nut and dried rosemary. A bit thin on the<br />
finish, the wine concludes with silky tannins and a fresh<br />
touch. Michael Skurnik <strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $20<br />
89<br />
Sesti 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. From the<br />
Castello di Argiano property, Sesti’s delicious<br />
Rosso has bright aromas of small berry, dried rosemary,<br />
dark chocolate and toasted almond. Kermit Lynch <strong>Wine</strong><br />
Merchant. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $NA<br />
89<br />
Talenti 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. Talenti’s<br />
Rosso is an impressive expression of Sangiovese,<br />
with bold brushstrokes of ripe berry, spice, blue flow-<br />
er, toasted nut and dried herb. This is a compelling red<br />
wine from Tuscany that would pair well with lasagna or<br />
cheesy pasta. Robert Chadderdon Selections. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $NA<br />
89<br />
Tenuta La Fuga 2010 Rosso di Montalcino.<br />
This Rosso displays soft aromas of red cherry,<br />
chocolate and light spice that create a clean and balanced<br />
bouquet. Its smooth, fresh mouthfeel suggests<br />
it would pair with veal, roast turkey or pork. Kobrand.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $36<br />
89<br />
Tenuta Vitanza 2009 Rosso di Montalcino.<br />
This hearty Rosso opens with earthy tones<br />
of leather, tobacco and dried rose petal. The wine’s consistency<br />
is sharp and defined with uplifting acidity. Vedi<br />
Vintners Estates Direct Importing . —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $22<br />
88<br />
Belpoggio 2010 Rosso di Montalcino.<br />
This is a nicely fragrant Rosso that shows bright<br />
nuances of raspberry, wild strawberry and pressed rose<br />
petal. The wine is smooth and silky to the end. Vino Direct.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: NA Price: $50<br />
88<br />
Biondi-Santi Tenuta Greppo 2008 Rosso<br />
di Montalcino. From Montalcino’s most historic<br />
estate, this pretty Rosso opens with a bright, ruby<br />
color and aromas of spice and forest fruit. It delivers<br />
bright acidity and silky tannins in the mouth. Vision<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> & Spirits. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $75<br />
88<br />
Brunelli Martoccia 2010 Rosso di Montalcino.<br />
There’s a focused quality to the fruit in<br />
this bright Rosso that resembles red candy, bright raspberry<br />
and sour cranberry. A softly toasted note of oak<br />
spice rounds out the mouthfeel and gives the wine extra<br />
depth and texture. Small Vineyards LLC. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $25<br />
88<br />
Cordella 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. Easy,<br />
fresh and succulent, this ruby-colored Rosso<br />
would make a great match for grilled sausage or hamburger<br />
patties. There’s a ripe, chewy texture to the<br />
mouthfeel, with a finish that’s driven by dark fruit flavors.<br />
North Berkeley Imports. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $20<br />
88<br />
Fattoria dei Barbi 2010 Rosso di Montalcino.<br />
You absolutely can’t go wrong with a<br />
wine like this plump, textured expression of Rosso di<br />
Montalcino. Pair this wine with pork chops or breaded<br />
veal as the fresh acidity nicely contrasts against those<br />
sweet cuts of meat. Pasternak <strong>Wine</strong> Imports. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $25<br />
88<br />
La Poderina 2009 Rosso di Montalcino.<br />
Fresh and bright, this wine is rich with wild<br />
berries, cassis and white cherry aromas that would pair<br />
perfectly with home-cooked pasta and meat dishes. It’s<br />
natural acidity will cut through the rich consistency of<br />
those foods. Vias Imports. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $30<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>Mag.com | 23
88<br />
Podere Paganico 2009 Rosso di Montalcino.<br />
This informal Rosso shows balance<br />
and intensity with bright berry aromas and acidity that<br />
is not too sharp. In fact, the wine is nicely rounded and<br />
supple. Saranty Imports. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $15<br />
88<br />
Quattroventi 2010 Rosso di Montalcino.<br />
Quattroventi delivers a clean, genuine<br />
Rosso with bright notes of raspberry, blueberry, plum<br />
and black cherry. There’s a touch of smoke or spice at<br />
the back that contributes to a round, easy mouthfeel.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $NA<br />
88<br />
Tenuta Carlina 2009 La Togata (Rosso<br />
di Montalcino). La Togata offers a crisp and<br />
fresh Rosso, with aromas of bright berry, cherry cola,<br />
wild raspberry and lemon zest. The natural acidity of<br />
this wine would pair well with lasagna topped with melted<br />
mozzarella and Parmigiano. Panebianco. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $36<br />
88<br />
Tenuta di Sesta 2010 Rosso di Montalcino.<br />
Here’s a textbook Rosso that delivers clear<br />
and crisp fruit notes, with pretty nuances of wild berry,<br />
red rose and moist earth at the back. The wine feels<br />
crisp, lean and silky on the close. Monsieur Touton Selection<br />
Ltd. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $30<br />
88<br />
Tenuta Il Poggione 2010 Rosso di Montalcino.<br />
This lovely Montalcino estate delivers<br />
a bright, ruby-colored Rosso that is heavily characterized<br />
by fresh forest-fruit aromas and bright acids. The<br />
wine is streamlined and pristine. Terlato <strong>Wine</strong>s International.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $28<br />
88<br />
Tenute Silvio Nardi 2010 Rosso di Montalcino.<br />
A consistent producer, Silvio Nardi delivers<br />
a bright, fresh Rosso, bursting with notes of cherry,<br />
raspberry and white chocolate. This is a food-friendly<br />
wine that would match up nicely with breaded veal or<br />
mushroom risotto. Kobrand. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $27<br />
88<br />
Uccelliera 2010 Rosso di Montalcino.<br />
This informal wine opens with a dark, ruby color<br />
and pretty notes of red berry, rose and pipe tobacco.<br />
A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $22<br />
88<br />
Uccelliera 2009 Rosso di Montalcino. Uccelliera’s<br />
savory Rosso offers a compact mouthfeel,<br />
with bright acidity, silky tannins and bright berry<br />
aromas. Pair this wine with lamb stewed with exotic<br />
spices and grated ginger. A Marc de Grazia selection;<br />
various American importers. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $20<br />
88<br />
Vini Italiani da Sogno 2010 Carillon (Rosso<br />
di Montalcino). This is a dark, plump<br />
expression of Sangiovese Grosso that delivers finelytuned<br />
aromas of succulent fruit and blackberry. Notes<br />
of espresso and dark chocolate give the wine added di-<br />
24 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012<br />
mension and staying power in the mouth. Panebianco.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $NA<br />
87<br />
Camigliano 2010 Rosso di Montalcino.<br />
A crisp, streamlined expression of Sangiovese<br />
Grosso that opens with lively aromas of wild berry,<br />
white pepper and pressed rose. Pair this wine with<br />
sweet meats, such as roasted ham or pork. Vias Imports.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $20<br />
87<br />
Casato1 2010 Voliero (Rosso di Montalcino).<br />
Pair this food-friendly bright Rosso<br />
with meatloaf or pork roasted with chopped fennel and<br />
leeks. The wine opens with easy berry aromas backed<br />
by blue flower and spice, and there’s a blast of cleansing<br />
acidity on the close. A Marc de Grazia selection; various<br />
American importers. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $20<br />
87<br />
Casato1 2009 Voliero (Rosso di Montalcino).<br />
Simple, bright and packed with fresh<br />
berry intensity, this easygoing Rosso would pair well<br />
with meatloaf, lamp chops or pasta with meat sauce.<br />
The wine’s naturally crisp acidity will cut through the<br />
fat content of these succulent foods. Michael Skurnik<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $23<br />
87<br />
Castello Banfi 2010 Rosso di Montalcino.<br />
Here’s the kind of simple Rosso di Montalcino<br />
that would pair perfectly with with risotto alla Milanese<br />
(with delicate meat flavoring and saffron) or roast pork.<br />
It’s a fresh, zesty wine, with bright berry nuances and a<br />
clean, sharp mouthfeel. Banfi Vintners. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $23<br />
87<br />
Fattoi 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. This<br />
hearty Rosso opens with spicy aromas of candied<br />
fruit, clove, dark spice and cured meat. The wine<br />
has a warm, earthy note that is characteristic of Tuscany’s<br />
Sangiovese. The mouthfeel is tart, bright and fresh<br />
on the finish. Tricana Imports. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $22<br />
87<br />
La Fornace 2009 Rosso di Montalcino.<br />
This Rosso shows nicely etched lines of wild<br />
berry, white almond and smoked spice. The wine is lean<br />
and crisp in the mouth and would pair well with a heaping<br />
plate of spaghetti and meat sauce. Vignaioli. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $35<br />
87<br />
Lazzeretti 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. The<br />
nose of this succulent Rosso opens with red berry,<br />
candied cherry and blackberry tar. Its firm tannins<br />
give the wine a textured, almost gritty, mouthfeel. Pacific<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> Distributors. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $NA<br />
87<br />
Máté 2009 Rosso di Montalcino. This silky<br />
Rosso offers a lean, compact mouthfeel and intense<br />
aromas of red fruit, smoked almond, black olive<br />
and sour cherry. There’s a savory note of cured meat on<br />
the finish. Vinilandia USA. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $23<br />
87<br />
Mocali 2009 Rosso di Montalcino. This<br />
wine’s ripe, earthy bouquet is enhanced by the<br />
bright aromas of strawberry and blackberry preserve<br />
aromas. It’s soft, round, supple and there’s a distant<br />
note of plump berry sweetness. Michael Skurnik <strong>Wine</strong>s.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $20<br />
87<br />
Molino di Sant’Antimo 2010 Rosso di<br />
Montalcino. Bright red cherry and chewy<br />
blackberry notes are followed by sweet spice, nutmeg<br />
and cinnamon. There’s a grapy element to the bouquet<br />
that underscores the wine’s youth and informality. Delectatio<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $20<br />
87<br />
Podere Brizio 2009 Rosso di Montalcino.<br />
Clean, fresh and spicy on the close, this easy<br />
Rosso offers mild aromas of wild berry, raspberry and<br />
cranberry. The wine delivers a crisp feel in the mouth.<br />
A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $27<br />
87<br />
Tenuta San Giorgio 2010 Ciampoleto<br />
(Rosso di Montalcino). Here’s a lovely Rosso<br />
and a rare value wine from one of Tuscany’s most prestigious<br />
wine-growing areas. Ciampoleto offers bright<br />
berry nuances, light shadings of exotic spice and a fresh,<br />
zesty finish. Majestic Imports. Best Buy. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $12<br />
87<br />
Tiezzi 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. Tiezzi’s<br />
2010 Rosso shows a dark, austere side, with aromas<br />
of ripe fruit, blackberry preserves and rum cake.<br />
The acidity is lively and fresh, and the mouthfeel is balanced<br />
and smooth. Michael Skurnik <strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $20<br />
87<br />
Vini Italiani da Sogno 2008 Carillon (Rosso<br />
di Montalcino). Rosso Carillon is aged one<br />
year in oak to produce smoky notes of toasted almond<br />
and exotic spice. The bright, compact mouthfeel offers<br />
cola, sour cherry and wild blueberry endnotes. Panebianco.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $30<br />
86<br />
Poggio Antico 2009 Rosso di Montalcino.<br />
There’s a youthful, brambly character to<br />
this Rosso that appears as dried sage, rosemary, forest<br />
berry and wild mushroom. The wine is bright, fresh and<br />
streamlined. The Sorting Table. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $44<br />
86<br />
San Polo 2008 Rosso di Montalcino. This<br />
fresh expression of Sangiovese Grosso offers<br />
tight berry aromas, with shades of spice and toasted almond<br />
in the background. Bright acidity brings up the<br />
rear. <strong>Wine</strong>bow. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $25<br />
86<br />
Tenuta Carlina 2010 La Togata (Rosso di<br />
Montalcino). This dark Rosso opens with aromas<br />
of dark fruit and bramble, with subtle background<br />
hints of wild mushroom and cured meat. Endnotes of<br />
crushed black pepper and crushed clove bring up the<br />
rear. Panebianco. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $28
85<br />
La Torre 2010 Rosso di Montalcino.<br />
There’s a meaty quality to this Rosso that comes<br />
across as candied fruit, plum cake, leather, spice and<br />
moist earth. Drink now. Rosenthal <strong>Wine</strong> Merchants.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $35<br />
85<br />
Podere La Vigna 2009 Rosso di Montalcino.<br />
Here’s a simple, brambly expression of<br />
Sangiovese Grosso, with bright acidity and lively notes<br />
of forest berry and moist earth. This wine has a smoky<br />
touch of toasted almond on the close. Royalty Importers.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $30<br />
85<br />
Villa Poggio Salvi 2010 Rosso di Montalcino.<br />
Here’s a well-proportioned Rosso that<br />
shows notes of fresh raspberry and cherry, with an easy<br />
consistency and crisp acidity. The wine’s mouthfeel is<br />
lean and crisp. Shaw-Ross International Importers.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $20<br />
84<br />
Il Valentiano 2008 Campo di Marzo (Rosso<br />
di Montalcino). There’s a ripe, jammy aroma<br />
on the bouquet of this wine that is soon followed<br />
by toasted espresso, rum cake, spice and tobacco. The<br />
finish is harsh and strong, thanks to a combination of<br />
alcohol and high acidity. Vidalco International, LLC.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $22<br />
CHIANTI<br />
90<br />
Cantalici L’Antica Fornace di Ridolfo<br />
2007 Messer Ridolfo Riserva (Chianti<br />
Classico). This bold Chianti Classico opens with<br />
earthy aromas of cured meat, tobacco, pipe tobacco and<br />
rum cake. The fruit aromas come forth as candied berry,<br />
plum and crème de cassis. This wine is aged for one year<br />
in oak barrel, resulting in a soft, plush and velvety finish.<br />
Roanoke Valley <strong>Wine</strong> Company. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $32<br />
90<br />
Marchesi Antinori 2008 Badia a Passignano<br />
Riserva (Chianti Classico). At the<br />
heart of Chianti Classico, Badia a Passignano is among<br />
the most beautiful wine properties in the world with an<br />
ancient abbey that crowns softly rolling hills. This wine<br />
is packed tightly with bright cherry, spice and tobacco<br />
notes, and lingering touches of wild berry and cola. Ste.<br />
Michelle <strong>Wine</strong> Estates. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $53<br />
89<br />
Castello d’Albola 2007 Riserva (Chianti<br />
Classico). This bright wine offers a straightforward<br />
and focused expression of Sangiovese (with a<br />
tiny percentage of Canaiolo), with a lean texture and<br />
crisp berry nuances. On the close, there’s a pretty accent<br />
that recalls white almond. Zonin USA. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $28<br />
89<br />
Castelvecchio 2007 Vigna la Quercia<br />
Riserva (Chianti Colli Fiorentini). This<br />
wine is ripe and soft, with jammy aromas of blackber-<br />
ry and raspberry followed by rich smoothness. Atlantic<br />
Importing. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $37<br />
89<br />
Marchesi Antinori 2007 Marchese Antinori<br />
Riserva (Chianti Classico). Sangiovese<br />
fruit is presented in its most genuine and clean<br />
state, with bright berry nuances, violets, moist earth, tobacco<br />
and cola. There are wood elements, but they are<br />
unobstructive, clean and otherwise relegated to a supporting<br />
role. The bouquet shows wild berry, bramble<br />
and bright acidity. Ste. Michelle <strong>Wine</strong> Estates. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $35<br />
88<br />
Cantalici L’Antica Fornace di Ridolfo<br />
2007 Cantalici (Chianti Classico). This<br />
bright and nicely layered Chianti Classico opens with<br />
characteristic Sangiovese aromas of forest fruit and blue<br />
flower followed by leather and tobacco. Since the wine<br />
spends many months in oak, the finish is soft and spicy.<br />
Roanoke Valley <strong>Wine</strong> Company. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $20<br />
88<br />
Castello d’Albola 2008 Le Ellere (Chianti<br />
Classico). Le Ellere is a tight and fresh expression<br />
of Sangiovese that delivers a clean and crisp<br />
quality of fruit. The wine’s acidity makes it a perfect<br />
pairing for ravioli stuffed with ricotta cheese or chicken<br />
in cream sauce. Zonin USA. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $25<br />
88<br />
Castelvecchio 2009 Il Castelvecchio<br />
(Chianti Colli Fiorentini). Sangiovese (with<br />
10% Merlot) forms a solid base for bright aromas of<br />
red cherry, cola, leather, tobacco and rum cake in this<br />
blend. These two varieties work well together to produce<br />
a soft, velvety feel with a touch of ripe fruit on the<br />
finish. Atlantic Importing. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $16<br />
87<br />
Castello d’Albola 2008 Chianti Classico<br />
(Chianti Classico). Here’s a wonderfully<br />
fresh and tangy Chianti Classico (Sangiovese with a tiny<br />
element of Canaiolo) that opens with a bright, ruby appearance<br />
and tangy notes of wild berry, white almond<br />
and blue violet. The mouthfeel is fresh and focused. Zonin<br />
USA. —M.L.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $19<br />
84<br />
Buccia Nera 2008 Guarniente (Chianti).<br />
Very fresh and acidic to the point of tasting sour,<br />
this ruby-colored Chianti offers bright berry aromas and<br />
white cherry crispness. The wine seems perfectly engineered<br />
to pair with cheesy pasta or pizza. <strong>Wine</strong> Country.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $13<br />
MAREMMA<br />
94<br />
Fattoria Le Pupille 2008 Saffredi (Maremma).<br />
Vintner Elisabetta Geppetti’s Saffredi is<br />
part cult wine and part mainstream blockbuster in that<br />
the wine enjoys worldwide fame, but few know it well.<br />
This vintage is soft and luscious, with loads of dark chocolate,<br />
cherry, blackberry, tobacco and spice. It’s gor-<br />
geous down to the last delicious drop. <strong>Wine</strong>bow. Cellar<br />
Selection. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $126<br />
90<br />
Agricola Querciabella 2009 Mongrana<br />
(Maremma). This is a terrific super Tuscan<br />
blend (of 50% Sangiovese with equal parts Merlot and<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon) that drinks beautifully. Bright red<br />
fruit and cherry give the wine a lively, cheerful personality<br />
and the wine’s structure is perfectly balanced and<br />
smooth. It’s a one-size-fits-all wine for our favorite Italian<br />
foods. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. Editors’<br />
Choice. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $17<br />
88<br />
Pieve Vecchia 2008 Pieve dei Monaci<br />
Syrah (Maremma). A pure expression of<br />
Syrah from coastal Tuscany, Pieve dei Monaci offers<br />
a chewy texture and thick layers of black fruit, prune,<br />
cola, spice and smoked bacon. Pair this wine with grilled<br />
meat. Supreme <strong>Wine</strong>s & Spirits. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $17<br />
TOSCANA<br />
97<br />
Marchesi Antinori 2008 Solaia (Toscana).<br />
Definitely on a top 10 list of Italian icons, Solaia<br />
affirms the massive potential of Italian winemaking,<br />
from vineyard to cantina to cellar and beyond. Superrich<br />
and polished, but never over the top, this gorgeous<br />
super Tuscan shows deep layers of chocolate, black<br />
cherry, rum cake and spice. The secret lies in its balance:<br />
Everything is in place, from intensity and complexity<br />
to persistency. Ste. Michelle <strong>Wine</strong> Estates. Cellar<br />
Selection. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $325<br />
95<br />
Ca’ Marcanda 2007 Promis (Toscana).<br />
From the Tuscan estate of Angelo Gaja, Promis<br />
delivers all the gorgeous intensity and complexity you<br />
should expect. The wine oozes dark chocolate, cherry liqueur,<br />
spice, blackberry and moist tobacco. The mouthfeel<br />
is soft and smooth; absolutely delicious. Terlato<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>s International. Cellar Selection. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $50<br />
94<br />
Marchesi Antinori 2008 Tignanello (Toscana).<br />
This landmark Italian wine continues<br />
to show the best of Tuscany, as it faithfully does year<br />
after year. The quality is obvious, thanks to rich notes<br />
of chocolate, black cherry and spice that are wrapped<br />
tight within a lush, soft and texture. The close is velvety<br />
and very long.Ste. Michelle <strong>Wine</strong> Estates. Cellar Selection.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $99<br />
94<br />
Poggio Antico 2009 Madre (Toscana).<br />
Madre is the name of a beautiful vineyard parcel<br />
on the Poggio Antico estate, with views that extend<br />
from Montalcino to the Mediterranean Sea. This hearty<br />
blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon is intense<br />
and rich, with long-lasting notes of blackberry, smoke,<br />
spice and black pepper. The mouthfeel is lush and velvety.<br />
The Sorting Table. Cellar Selection. —M.L.<br />
abv: NA Price: $73<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>Mag.com | 25
92<br />
Castello d’Albola 2007 Acciaiolo (Toscana).<br />
Acciaiolo is a super Tuscan blend of<br />
Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon that opens with<br />
concentrated and opulent aromas of dark cherry, chocolate<br />
and exotic spice. The mouthfeel shows heft and<br />
depth. Give the wine a few more years in the cellar to<br />
soften those toasted oak influences. Zonin USA. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $90<br />
92<br />
Collazzi 2007 Rosso (Toscana). Soft and<br />
velvety, this super Tuscan blend delivers intense<br />
and pure notes of chocolate, cherry, blackberry<br />
and spice. It balances a dense, rich texture with loads<br />
of bright fruit on the finish. The Sorting Table. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $39<br />
92<br />
Poggio Antico 2010 Lemartine (Toscana).<br />
A new wine from Poggio Antico, Lemartine is<br />
a hearty blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and<br />
Petit Verdot that offers intense and pristine aromas of<br />
black fruit, spice, rum cake, pepper and black pipe tobacco.<br />
It shows both substance and freshness on the<br />
long finish. The Sorting Table. —M.L.<br />
abv: NA Price: $52<br />
91<br />
Agricola Querciabella 2007 Camartina<br />
(Toscana). This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
and Sangiovese opens with plush layers of cherry and<br />
blackberry and touches of spice and toast that are never<br />
overdone. In fact, the wine shows power and determination<br />
allied to delicacy. Maisons Marques & Domaines<br />
USA. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $130<br />
90<br />
Bibi Graetz 2009 Testamatta Soffocone<br />
di Vincigliata (Toscana). This is a special expression<br />
of Sangiovese (and a small amount of Cannaiolo)<br />
with a pure, luminous quality aided by subtle aromas<br />
of forest berry, white licorice, cola and pressed lavender.<br />
It’s an elegant wine from start to finish.—M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $45<br />
90<br />
Castelvecchio 2007 Il Brecciolino (Toscana).<br />
You’re in for a big, bold wine the minute<br />
you pour Il Brecciolino into the glass. This blend of<br />
Sangiovese, Merlot and Petit Verdot opens with a dark,<br />
inky color and intense aromas of ripe fruit, blackberry,<br />
rum cake and spice. It’s soft, supple and rich. Atlantic<br />
Importing. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $45<br />
87<br />
Buccia Nera 2007 Amadio (Toscana). This<br />
blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and<br />
Merlot opens with earthy aromas of leather, tobacco<br />
and button mushroom, followed by fresh cherry. Crisp<br />
acidity makes this a good wine to pair with cheesy risotto<br />
or pork. Casa Torelli . —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $23<br />
87<br />
Castello d’Albola 2009 Il Solatio (Toscana).<br />
From a vineyard located 580 meters<br />
above sea level, Il Solatio delivers cool aromas of wild<br />
berry, cola, white mineral and crushed stone. The wine<br />
is lean and compact in the mouth, but it definitely bears<br />
the mark of its origins. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $NA<br />
26 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012<br />
87<br />
I Giusti e Zanza 2008 Nemorino (Toscana).<br />
Nemorino (a blend of Syrah, Sangiovese<br />
and Merlot) shows chewy cherry and blueberry<br />
characteristics with easy spice tones on the finish. The<br />
wine is fresh and bright and would pair with meat lasagna<br />
or tortellini with grated Parmigiano. Vindagra USA.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $17<br />
87<br />
Mocine 2009 Rosso (Toscana). This organically<br />
farmed blend of Sangiovese, Foglia Tonda,<br />
Barsaglina and Colorino opens with sweet cherry<br />
and blueberry notes followed by light accents of spice<br />
and leather. This easygoing wine shows medium intensity<br />
and fresh acidity. The Italian <strong>Wine</strong> Trader. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $19<br />
86<br />
Capezzana 2010 Monna Nera (Toscana).<br />
In 1475, Monna Nera was the name of the<br />
woman who purchased and managed the historic Capezzana<br />
wine estate in western Tuscany. This easy wine<br />
offers loads of bright cherry aromas and a lean, crisp<br />
mouthfeel. MW Imports. —M.L.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $12<br />
86<br />
Fattoria la Castellina 2008 Reale (Toscana).<br />
Reale (100% Merlot) offers sweet cherry<br />
and raspberry aromas with light touches of spice and<br />
toasted almond in the background. This ruby colored<br />
wine offers an easy, fresh and lean feel in the mouth.<br />
Saranty Imports. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $30<br />
86<br />
Varramista 2007 Ottopioppi (Toscana).<br />
Grenache is a grape variety that is slowly making<br />
its mark in central Italy. This 80-20 blend of Sangiovese<br />
and Grenache shows the bright cherry and blue<br />
flower aromas of Sangiovese with slightly smoked, savory<br />
layers in the background. Vigneti D’Italia. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $30<br />
85<br />
Buccia Nera 2008 Camprianese (Toscana).<br />
This easy blend of Sangiovese and<br />
Ciliegiolo opens with a dark, garnet color and sharp aromas<br />
of raw cherry and blueberry. It’s finely focused and<br />
crisp, making it perfect for pizza or pasta. Potomac Selections.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $11<br />
84<br />
Fattoria di San Quintino 2008 La Fagiana<br />
(Toscana). La Fagiana is a bright, rubycolored<br />
wine with aromas of forest fruit and bramble,<br />
with white almond and spice at the back. It’s an easy, nofuss<br />
expression with a clean, tart close. Vindagra USA.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $NA<br />
84<br />
Massanera 2005 Prelato di Massanera<br />
(Toscana). Vintner Carlo Cattaneo offers a<br />
lean, crisp expression of Sangiovese with aromas of cassis<br />
and spice. The wine shows sharp acidity on the close.<br />
Total <strong>Wine</strong> & More. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $35<br />
OTHER TUSCAN REDS<br />
88<br />
Marchesi Antinori 2009 Achelo Syrah<br />
(Cortona). Achelo is a bright, chewy and lively<br />
red wine with aromas of blueberry, spice, milk chocolate<br />
and crushed white pepper. Ste. Michelle <strong>Wine</strong> Estates.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $21<br />
87<br />
La Braccesca 2010 Sabazio (Rosso di<br />
Montepulciano). Sabazio is a bold and savory<br />
Rosso di Montepulciano with spicy aromas of leather,<br />
tobacco, ripe fruit, blackberry preserves and rum cake.<br />
The intensity of the bouquet is there but the mouthfeel<br />
is light and tight. Ste. Michelle <strong>Wine</strong> Estates. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $15<br />
85<br />
Pieve Vecchia 2009 Albatrello (Montecucco).<br />
Aged only in stainless steel, this blend<br />
of Sangiovese and Alicante combines bright fruit nuances<br />
of cherry and blueberry with a lean, crisp mouthfeel.<br />
It’s got enough acidity to cut through cheesy<br />
pizza.Supreme <strong>Wine</strong>s & Spirits. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $18<br />
ROSÉS<br />
88<br />
Fattoria Le Pupille 2010 RosaMati Rosé<br />
(Maremma). RosaMati opens with a bold pink<br />
color and follows up aromatically with bright raspberry,<br />
cassis and cranberry. The wine shows a cool, silky feel in<br />
the mouth with a crisp close. <strong>Wine</strong>bow. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $20<br />
87<br />
Terre di Talamo 2010 Piano... Piano Rosé<br />
(Maremma). Here’s a lively rosé from Tuscany<br />
(a 50-50 blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon)<br />
that offers pretty aromas of cranberry, red rose and<br />
white almond. Pair it with smoked salmon and capers.<br />
Michelangelo Selections. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $15<br />
87<br />
Terre di Talamo 2009 Piano... Piano Rosé<br />
(Maremma). A 50-50 blend of Sangiovese and<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon, Piano... Piano opens with a pretty<br />
pink color and delicate aromas of rose petal, white cherry<br />
and almond paste. Pair this wine with spicy Thai beef<br />
and basil. Michelangelo Selections. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $15<br />
87<br />
Fabrizio Dionisio 2010 Rosa del Castagno<br />
Rosé (Toscana). This bright peach-pink<br />
colored rosé is made using Syrah from the Cortona area.<br />
It shows aromas of peach, cranberry, white almond and<br />
pink grapefruit. USA <strong>Wine</strong> Imports. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $29<br />
87<br />
Il Poggione 2009 Lo Sbrancato Rosé<br />
(Toscana). A rosé of Sangiovese from southern<br />
Tuscany (Montalcino), Lo Sbrancato features ripe<br />
aromas of wild berry, cranberry and white almond. It’s<br />
a simple, fresh wine that would pair well with mussels<br />
steamed in cream sauce. Terlato <strong>Wine</strong>s International.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $NA
86<br />
Collemassari 2010 Gròttolo Rosé (Toscana).<br />
Made with organically-farmed fruit,<br />
Gròttolo is a Tuscan rosé that would pair with shellfish<br />
or fresh pasta with grilled vegetables. The wine is layered<br />
with bright fruit, cranberry and a touch of fresh<br />
acidity. Bedford International. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $18<br />
86<br />
Pieve Vecchia 2009 Quercerosa Rosé<br />
(Maremma). Quercerosa Rosé is pressed from<br />
Sangiovese grapes, and offers delicate tones of violet,<br />
blue flower and wild berry, with warm, earthy tones in<br />
the background. Pair this wine with tomatoes stuffed<br />
with basil and white rice. Supreme <strong>Wine</strong>s & Spirits.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $NA<br />
86<br />
Salcheto 2009 Rosé (Toscana). This Tuscan<br />
rosé made using Sangiovese grapes opens<br />
with a pink-purplish color and bright aromas of rose,<br />
cranberry and wild forest berry. There’s a pretty touch<br />
of bitter almond on the close. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $13<br />
85<br />
La Porta di Vertine 2008 Rosato (Toscana).<br />
Here’s a sunny rosé made near the<br />
beautiful town of Gaiole in Chianti. The blend is Sangiovese,<br />
Canaiolo, Malvasia and Trebbiano, and the<br />
wine offers both fresh fruit and floral aromas. The Vine<br />
Collective. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $NA<br />
81<br />
Il Valentiano NV Note di Rosa Rosé (Toscana).<br />
This Vino da Tavola rosé has no appellation<br />
or vintage date, butopens with ripe strawberry<br />
nuances and sweet almond paste. It offers a powdery,<br />
semisweet feel in the mouth. Vidalco International,<br />
LLC. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $18<br />
WHITE WINES<br />
87<br />
Fattoria Le Pupille 2010 Poggio Argentato<br />
(Toscana). Poggio Argentato opens with<br />
a bright bouquet of green apple, kiwi, cut grass and<br />
lemon zest. You’ll also recognize green caper and olive<br />
notes on the finish. The wine shows good density, freshness<br />
and would pair with smoked salmon and cream<br />
cheese. <strong>Wine</strong>bow. —M.L.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $20<br />
87<br />
Terre di Talamo 2010 Vento Teso Viognier<br />
(Maremma). This Tuscan expression of Viognier<br />
doesn’t show the intense floral aromas you usually<br />
find in this fragrant grape variety. Instead, you get layers<br />
of citrus, pear and white peach. Michelangelo Selections.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $23<br />
DESSERT WINE<br />
96<br />
Capezzana 2005 Riserva (Vin Santo di<br />
Carmignano). This gorgeous Vin Santo from<br />
the Carmignano subzone of Tuscany is made with 90%<br />
Trebbiano and 10% Sancolombano. With a luscious,<br />
dark amber color, this sweet wine offers smooth, long<br />
tones of raisin, dried apricot, honey and toasted nut. It’s<br />
a true masterpiece with amazing intensity and complexity.<br />
Mionetto USA. Cellar Selection. —M.L.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $55/375 ml<br />
91<br />
Fattoria Le Pupille 2006 SolAlto (Maremma).<br />
This beautiful dessert wine from southern<br />
Tuscany (representing a blend of equal parts Traminer,<br />
Sauvignon and Sémillon) opens with ripe apricot,<br />
honey, toasted almond and candied fruit aromas. The<br />
chewy, rich sweetness of the wine is the main protagonist.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>bow. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $30/375 ml<br />
ITALIAN MOSCATO<br />
ASTI<br />
88<br />
Cà ed Balos 2011 Moscato d’Asti. This is<br />
a beautiful Moscato d’Asti with peach mousse,<br />
tangerine, white almond, honey, ginger and spring flower.<br />
Perfect for nut-based desserts, the sparkler is soft<br />
and sweet with a distant touch of tangy spice on the finish.<br />
Delectatio <strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.L.<br />
abv: 5% Price: $14<br />
88<br />
Cascina La Ghersa 2011 Giorgia (Moscato<br />
d’Asti). Giorgia presents textbook Moscato<br />
d’Asti aromas of sweet flower, fragrant soap, jasmine,<br />
honeysuckle and peach blossom. This lively sparkler<br />
shows impressive intensity and subtle elegance with a<br />
smooth, silky feel in the mouth. Epic <strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.L.<br />
abv: 5% Price: $19<br />
88<br />
Ghione 2011 Piccole Gioie (Moscato<br />
d’Asti). Piccole Gioie (“little joys”) delivers a<br />
steady stream of tiny bubbles that form a foamy, creamy<br />
appearance and texture. In fact, a frothy cap remains<br />
long in the glass and provides a solid platform for aromas<br />
of honey, peach blossom, fragrant flower and dried<br />
sage.Epic <strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.L.<br />
abv: 5.5% Price: $16<br />
88<br />
Gianni Doglia 2011 Moscato d’Asti. This<br />
pretty Moscato d’Asti shows a rich, creamy<br />
quality, thanks to the sweet tones of honey, peach and<br />
exotic fruit that drive the bouquet. The texture is sticky<br />
and thick, but a zesty touch of fresh acidity shows up<br />
right at the end to keep the palate refreshed. USA <strong>Wine</strong><br />
West. —M.L.<br />
abv: 5% Price: $NA/1.5 L<br />
87<br />
Batasiolo 2010 Bosc Dla Rei (Moscato<br />
d’Asti). Soft and delicately sweet, Moscato<br />
Bosc Dla Rei opens with a light, foamy appearance and<br />
plush layers of peach cream and lemon mousse. Fragrant,<br />
fresh and sweet, pair it with fruit salad. Boisset<br />
Family Estates. —M.L.<br />
abv: 5.5% Price: $16<br />
87<br />
Bava 2011 Bass Tuba (Moscato d’Asti).<br />
Bass Tuba is a sweet sparkling dessert wine that<br />
opens with an off-gold color and ripe aromas of peach,<br />
honey, candied fruit and mango. It’s a bold, concentrated<br />
Moscato d’Asti with a thick, creamy mouthfeel,<br />
bright sweetness and piquant touch of white pepper.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> Wave. —M.L.<br />
abv: 4.5% Price: $24<br />
87<br />
La Gironda di Galandrino 2011 Moscato<br />
d’Asti. This bright Moscato d’Asti delivers<br />
pure expressions of both the fragrant Moscato grape<br />
and the special territory in northern Italy that shaped<br />
this delicate dessert wine. Floral aromas of honeysuckle<br />
and jasmine are presented in a compact, elegant manner<br />
thanks to the temperate growing conditions in Piedmont.<br />
The finish is creamy, frothy and rich. <strong>Wine</strong> Appellations<br />
Ltd. Best Buy. —M.L.<br />
abv: 5% Price: $8<br />
87<br />
Luca Bosio 2011 Moscato d’Asti. Luca Bosio’s<br />
pretty Moscato d’Asti opens with characteristic<br />
aromas of ginger, tangerine skin and acacia flower.<br />
This sweet sparkler presents a mouthful of creamy foam<br />
and bright bubbles. Quintessential <strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.L.<br />
abv: 5.5% Price: $18<br />
87<br />
Massolino 2011 Moscato d’Asti. Here’s a<br />
lovely Moscato d’Asti with a pristine and bright<br />
quality to both the bouquet and mouthfeel. Not as<br />
creamy and frothy as most, the wine drinks like a still<br />
sweet wine (the bubbles are light and delicate) with a<br />
zesty touch of lemon zest on the close. A perfect apéritif<br />
wine. Domaine Select <strong>Wine</strong> Estates. —M.L.<br />
abv: 5% Price: $19<br />
87<br />
Mauro Sebaste 2010 Moscato d’Asti.<br />
Mauro Sebaste has produced a creamy, elegant<br />
Moscato d’Asti with lovely notes of white flower and<br />
soapy foam. Sweet flavors of peach and honey are followed<br />
by a touch of zesty lemon. Tutto Vino. —M.L.<br />
abv: 5% Price: $20<br />
87<br />
Michele Chiarlo 2011 Nivole (Moscato<br />
d’Asti). Sweet, fragrant and intense, this pretty<br />
Moscato d’Asti opens with musky tones of melon,<br />
stone fruit, acacia flower and honeysuckle. The wine is<br />
creamy, rich and soft with pretty tangerine mousse on<br />
the close. Kobrand. —M.L.<br />
abv: 5% Price: $13/375 ml<br />
87<br />
Michele Chiarlo 2010 Nivole (Moscato<br />
d’Asti). This precious Moscato d’Asti opens<br />
with soft foam and sweet aromas of peach, honey, almond<br />
blossom and jasmine. Pair this delicious dessert<br />
wine with fruit ice cream or semifreddo. Kobrand.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 5% Price: $15/375 ml<br />
87<br />
Oscar Bosio 2011 La Bruciata (Moscato<br />
d’Asti). La Bruciata is a foamy, creamy and soft<br />
Moscato d’Asti with pretty aromas of honey, peach blossom<br />
and musky exotic flower. The wine is superrich and<br />
frothy in the mouth, thanks to the generous quality of<br />
the silky bubbles. Baroness <strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.L.<br />
abv: 5.5% Price: $14<br />
87<br />
Tenuta Olim Bauda 2011 Centive (Moscato<br />
d’Asti). Centive is a pleasant and lively<br />
Moscato d’Asti with fragrant tones of dried flowers, jasmine<br />
soap, lavender honey and sun-ripened peach. The<br />
smooth mouthfeel is capped by loads of frothy cream.<br />
Admiralty Beverage. —M.L.<br />
abv: 5% Price: $16<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>Mag.com | 27
86<br />
Bersano 2011 Monteolivo Moscato<br />
d’Asti. For full review see page 11. Best Buy.<br />
abv: 5% Price: $11<br />
86<br />
Bersano 2011 San Michele (Moscato<br />
d’Asti). Loaded with honey, marzipan, peach<br />
and exotic fruit, this special expression of Moscato<br />
d’Asti delivers a thick, creamy feel in the mouth with<br />
foamy mousse and soapy intensity. Pair this with sugary<br />
almond cookies. Vin Divino. —M.L.<br />
abv: 5.5% Price: $12/500 ml<br />
86<br />
Castello del Poggio 2011 Moscato d’Asti.<br />
This foamy Moscato d’Asti opens with bright<br />
aromas of tangerine flower, dried ginger, acacia flower<br />
and honey. The softly bubbly wine shows sweetness<br />
followed by a crisp accent on the finish. Zonin USA.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 5% Price: $16<br />
86<br />
Duchessa Lia 2011 Moscato d’Asti. This<br />
sweet sparkling wine shows a steady, creamy<br />
texture with tangerine mousse, wild flower, honey,<br />
peach blossom and soapy foam. The long sweet finish<br />
would match well with baked apricot pie. Italian <strong>Wine</strong><br />
Growers. —M.L.<br />
abv: 5.5% Price: $18<br />
86<br />
Tenimenti Ca’ Bianca 2011 Moscato<br />
d’Asti. This bright Moscato d’Asti opens with<br />
full, generous tones of peach, honey, acacia blossom,<br />
jasmine and freshly peeled tangerine skin. The rich and<br />
foamy mouthfeel would pair with soft cheese on dry rye<br />
crackers. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L.<br />
abv: 5% Price: $15<br />
86<br />
Villa Lanata 2011 Cardinale Lanata<br />
(Moscato d’Asti). The cardinal rules of<br />
Moscato d’Asti are frothy mousse, fragrant floral aromas<br />
and a simple mouthfeel. Cardinale Lanata follows them<br />
all and this bright dessert wine would pair with pastries<br />
or meringues. W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —M.L.<br />
abv: 5.5% Price: $17<br />
85<br />
Arbiola 2010 Ferlingot (Moscato d’Asti).<br />
Fragrant and foamy, this soft and plush Moscato<br />
d’Asti opens with orange blossom, honeysuckle and<br />
peach cobbler aromas. It’s smooth and sweet, with<br />
creamy mousse on the finish. —M.L.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $NA<br />
85<br />
Bella Bollè 2011 Moscato d’Asti. Packaged<br />
in an electric blue bottle, Bella Bollè is a soft,<br />
foamy sweet sparkler with bright aromas of peach blossom,<br />
dried ginger, sage, white flower and musky soap.<br />
The quality of the bubbles is creamy and rich. Prestige<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> Group. —M.L.<br />
abv: 5.5% Price: $9<br />
85<br />
Bersano NV Moscato (Asti). Here’s a cheerful,<br />
fresh and fragrant sparkling Asti with bright<br />
aromas of white flower, ginger, stone fruit and lemon<br />
soda. There’s a zesty touch of fresh spice or white pepper<br />
on the creamy finish. Vin Divino. —M.L.<br />
abv: 7% Price: $13<br />
85<br />
Cantina Vallebelbo 2011 Moscato d’Asti.<br />
Here’s a forthy and fresh Moscato d’Asti with<br />
28 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012<br />
fragrant aromas of honey, stone fruit and fragrant flower<br />
available at a competitive price. The wine is sweet and<br />
bright with a soapy touch of dried lavender on the close.<br />
Italian <strong>Wine</strong> Growers. Best Buy. —M.L.<br />
abv: 5.5% Price: $10<br />
85<br />
Cantina Vallebelbo 2011 San Maurizio<br />
(Moscato d’Asti). Fresh, piquant and bright,<br />
this Moscato d’Asti opens with slightly green aromas of<br />
wild flower, cut grass, wild sage and dried hay. The wine<br />
is plush and creamy, with a long, sweet endnote that recalls<br />
honey, marzipan and peach. Italian <strong>Wine</strong> Growers.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 5.5% Price: $NA<br />
85<br />
Cinzano NV Moscato (Asti). This celebrated<br />
Italian brand continues its historic production<br />
of sweet sparkling wine from northern Italy. Made with<br />
Moscato Bianco grapes, this expression is fresh, with<br />
steely effervescence and a sweet, fruity note with hints<br />
of peach and honey. Palm Bay International. —M.L.<br />
abv: 7% Price: $13<br />
85<br />
Duchessa Lia NV Moscato (Asti). Fresh,<br />
fragrant and floral, this sweet sparkling wine offers<br />
aromas of peach, honey, white flower, wild sage and<br />
dried hay. The wine is plush and creamy with a thick effervescent<br />
mousse. Italian <strong>Wine</strong> Growers. —M.L.<br />
abv: 7% Price: $15<br />
85<br />
Enrico Serafino 2011 Moscato d’Asti.<br />
Honey, candied nut, yellow flower, candied<br />
fruit and peach aromas open the bouquet of this bright,<br />
sweet sparkling wine. The effervescence is subdued,<br />
but the wine shows a rich, creamy mouthfeel regardless.<br />
Palm Bay International. —M.L.<br />
abv: 5.5% Price: $14<br />
85<br />
Santero 2011 Santo (Moscato d’Asti).<br />
Santo is a creamy Moscato d’Asti with ripe fruit<br />
aromas of yellow rose, honey and apricot. The wine<br />
shows a thick, bold style ,with an off-gold color and<br />
plenty of sweetness on the sticky finish. Atlas Imports.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 5.5% Price: $10<br />
85<br />
Santero 2011 Villa Jolanda (Moscato<br />
d’Asti). Packaged in a handsome bottle, this<br />
bright Moscato d’Asti is musky and sweet (as tradition<br />
dictates) and opens with aromas of peach blossom,<br />
white almond skin and honey. Pair this wine with tangerine<br />
mousse or chopped fruit salad. Monsieur Touton<br />
Selection Ltd. —M.L.<br />
abv: 5.5% Price: $14<br />
85<br />
Vino dei Fratelli 2011 Moscato d’Asti.<br />
There’s a sweet, sticky quality to this Moscato<br />
d’Asti that would match cream puddings or cooked fruit<br />
desserts. Fragrant aromas of yellow flower, honey, apricot<br />
and tangerine emerge on the bouquet. Quintessential<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.L.<br />
abv: 5.5% Price: $16<br />
84<br />
Cantina Vallebelbo 2011 San Maurizio<br />
Moscato (Asti). The bouquet reveals subtle<br />
notes of honey, white flower and peach blossom. This<br />
sweet sparkler also shows a milky or creamy note on the<br />
finish, with a softly sweet endnote. Italian <strong>Wine</strong> Growers.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 7.5% Price: $9<br />
84<br />
Demarie 2010 Moscato d’Asti. This bright<br />
Moscato d’Asti opens with a pristine appearance<br />
and a radiant pale gold color. The aromas are<br />
slightly closed and nutty, with white almond, stone fruit<br />
and yellow rose. There’s a touch of crushed white pepper<br />
at the very end. Uva Imports. —M.L.<br />
abv: 5% Price: $20<br />
84<br />
Fratelli Martini 2011 Casa Sant’Orsola<br />
Moscato (Asti). Compared to Moscato d’Asti,<br />
Asti is a sparkling dessert wine with slightly more alcohol<br />
and more bite to its bubbly effervescence. This expression<br />
is pure and clean, with simple white flower and<br />
stone fruit aromas followed by a sweet, fresh finish. W.J.<br />
Deutsch & Sons. —M.L.<br />
abv: 7% Price: $14<br />
84<br />
Isolabella della Croce 2010 Valdiserre<br />
(Moscato d’Asti). There’s a fresh, almost<br />
spicy quality to the nose, with fresh fruit, acacia flower,<br />
honey and crushed white pepper. The wine is steady<br />
and smooth on the palate, with a creamy texture and<br />
a foamy mousse. Patagonia <strong>Wine</strong> & Imports, LLC.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 5.5% Price: $17<br />
84<br />
Mondoro NV Moscato (Asti). Frothy cream<br />
and a thick white mousse cap this bright, sparkling<br />
Asti as the wine is poured in the glass. Floral and<br />
fruity aromas of jasmine and peach appear on the bouquet<br />
and the mouthfeel is silky and easy. Palm Bay International.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 7.5% Price: $15<br />
83<br />
Tosti NV Moscato (Asti). Tosti’s sparkling<br />
Asti offers a saccharine-sweet quality and aromas<br />
of lemon soda, candied fruit and honey. Perfect for<br />
dried biscuits or fresh fruit, the wine is soft, round and<br />
sticky on the close. Prestige <strong>Wine</strong> Group. —M.L.<br />
abv: 7.5% Price: $14<br />
OTHER PIEDMONT<br />
88<br />
Borgo Isolabella 2005 Isolabella della<br />
Croce Solìo Moscato (Loazzolo). From<br />
the Loazzolo subzone of Piedmont, this beautiful dessert<br />
wine presents generous aromas of fresh flower,<br />
apricot, honey, baked pear and Golden Delicious apple.<br />
The mouthfeel is rich, long and smooth. Patagonia<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> & Imports, LLC. —M.L.<br />
abv: 11.5% Price: $40/375 ml<br />
83<br />
Moscadoro 2010 Moscato (Piedmont).<br />
This easy sparkling Moscato from northern Italy<br />
opens with aromas of yellow rose, peach, honey and almond<br />
skin. The wine is sweet, but not exaggeratedly so,<br />
and offers a light, delicate effervescence. Bedford International.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 5.5% Price: $12/375 ml<br />
83<br />
Tosti NV Rosato Moscato (Piedmont).<br />
Moscato Rosato is a sweet sparkling rosé with<br />
a bright raspberry color and tangy layers of forest fruit
and lemon soda. There’s a sharp, almost pungent aspect<br />
to the effervescence that removes the heaviness or cloying<br />
quality of the wine’s natural sugar content. Prestige<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> Group. —M.L.<br />
abv: 6.5% Price: $14<br />
NORTHEAST ITALY<br />
87<br />
Franz Haas 2009 Moscato Rosa (Alto<br />
Adige). Moscato Rosa is a crimson-colored<br />
sweet wine with dark ruby highlights that offers simple<br />
but fresh aromas of wild raspberries and blueberries.<br />
The wine’s bouquet is fragrant, sweet-smelling and intense.<br />
Drink it as an apéritif or with fruit-based desserts.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>bow. —M.L.<br />
abv: 12% Price: $50/375 ml<br />
87<br />
Nals Margreid 2010 Moscato Giallo (Alto<br />
Adige). Here’s a dry expression of Moscato<br />
Giallo grapes from cool-climate northern Italy (where<br />
fresh floral aromas tend to be more intense) that opens<br />
with a bouquet of honey, acacia flower and stone fruit.<br />
The wine is fresh and clean, with a touch of bitter almond<br />
on the finish. Massanois Imports. —M.L.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $20<br />
86<br />
Abbazia di Novacella 2010 Praepositus<br />
Moscato Rosa (Alto Adige). Made using<br />
Moscato Rosa, this is a unique dessert wine that opens<br />
with a deep ruby color and bright aromas of wild berry<br />
and white chocolate. Smooth, sweet and thick, it also<br />
shows a touch of tannic firmness on the close. Vintage<br />
Epicure. —M.L.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $43/375 ml<br />
85<br />
Mochetto 2011 Pink Moscato (Delle<br />
Venezie). This is a sweet, pink sparkling wine<br />
(made mostly with Moscato grapes) from northern Italy<br />
that would pair well with raspberry tarts or strawberry<br />
pudding. The wine offers an easy bouquet of stone<br />
fruit and pink rose. It finishes with bright sweetness and<br />
foamy cream. Quintessential <strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.L.<br />
abv: 5% Price: $17<br />
85<br />
Vino dei Fratelli 2011 Mochetto Pink<br />
Moscato (Delle Venezie). This pale pink<br />
sparkling wine offers easy aromas of sweet raspberry<br />
and pink grapefruit. It’s a rosé sparkler made from<br />
Moscato grapes that will pair well with fruit ice cream<br />
or panna cotta with fresh forest berries. Quintessential<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.L.<br />
abv: 5% Price: $17<br />
83<br />
Caposaldo 2011 Moscato (Pavia). Here’s<br />
an easy, no-fuss Moscato with a bright, crystalline<br />
appearance and fresh aromas of spring flower,<br />
peach and honey baked almond. The wine presents a<br />
full, creamy finish with mild foaming and effervescence.<br />
Kobrand. —M.L.<br />
abv: 7% Price: $15<br />
83<br />
Poderi Arancio NV Stella Rosa Il Conte<br />
Orange Moscato Fior d’Arancio (Colli Euganei).<br />
This sweet sparkling wine opens with a pungent<br />
tone of freshly squeezed tangerine skin, with citrus<br />
and more grapefruit at the back. The wine is very<br />
sweet and foamy with a touch of citrus-like acidity on<br />
the close. San Antonio <strong>Wine</strong>ry. —M.L.<br />
abv: 6% Price: $15<br />
SOUTHERN ITALY<br />
86<br />
Feudi del Pisciotto 2010 Femme Fatale<br />
Blumarine Moscato (Sicilia). Made with<br />
late-harvest grapes, this strange dessert wine shares the<br />
sweet, syrupy characteristics of a passito and the resiny,<br />
caramel-like intensity of Marsala. The wine opens with<br />
a dark amber color, aromas of butterscotch and candied<br />
chestnut, followed by a sweet, sticky mouthfeel. —M.L.<br />
abv: 16% Price: $NA<br />
85<br />
Candoni NV Moscato d’Italia (Puglia). The<br />
sweet sparkling Moscato style is from northern<br />
Italy, the bottle’s Etruscan theme is from central Italy<br />
and the fruit is sourced in Puglia, southern Italy. It’s<br />
a wine of mixed messages, but Candoni’s marketable<br />
Moscato d’Italia shows a simple sweet mouthfeel and<br />
bright aromas of jasmine and wild flower. Arel Group<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> and Spirits Inc. —M.L.<br />
abv: 6.5% Price: $14<br />
85<br />
Luca Bosio 2011 Moscato (Puglia).<br />
Foamy, creamy and rich, this sweet sparkler<br />
opens with easy aromas of tangerine skin, jasmine and<br />
dried ginger. Fruit is sourced in Puglia, southern Italy<br />
and there is in fact a warm, ripe quality to the intense<br />
sweetness. Quintessential <strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.L.<br />
abv: 4.5% Price: $15<br />
84<br />
Casal Nova 2011 Moscato (Puglia). From<br />
the deep south of Italy, this fragrant Moscato<br />
opens with generous aromas of orange, apricot, yellow<br />
rose and honey. This sparkling dessert wine is sweet,<br />
heavy and ripe in the mouth. Quintessential <strong>Wine</strong>s.<br />
—M.L.<br />
abv: 4.5% Price: $14<br />
ALSACE<br />
WHITE WINES<br />
90<br />
Pierre Sparr 2010 Réserve Gewürztraminer<br />
(Alsace). An intense wine, its spice<br />
finely integrated with a more fruity character. It has<br />
the classic Gewürztraminer lychee flavor but this is balanced<br />
with acidity, ripe baked apple and mineral structure.<br />
W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $21<br />
89<br />
Pierre Sparr 2010 Réserve Pinot Gris (Alsace).<br />
Spice and cream combine in a rounded,<br />
soft, very ripe wine. It has intense flavors of lychee and<br />
white peach with a refreshing amount of acidity. The<br />
wine is dry, but rich from the ginger and with a peppery<br />
final bite. W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $21<br />
88<br />
Hugel 2006 Riesling (Alsace). Approaching<br />
maturity, here is a Riesling that still has a refreshing<br />
citric character, intensely tangy perfumed fruit<br />
as well as green herbs, spice and yeast. Frederick Wildman<br />
& Sons, Ltd. —R.V.<br />
abv: 11.5% Price: $25<br />
88<br />
Pierre Sparr 2010 Réserve Pinot Blanc<br />
(Alsace). Attractively balanced wine, with<br />
refreshing acidity cutting through the apple and pear<br />
flavors. It has some tangy minerality as well as a really<br />
fresh but rich aftertaste. Screwcap. W.J. Deutsch &<br />
Sons. —R.V.<br />
abv: 12% Price: $14<br />
88<br />
Pierre Sparr 2010 Riesling (Alsace). Tight<br />
grapefruit flavors, very perfumed and totally dry<br />
and crisp, this is a pure-fruited wine, packed with acidity,<br />
flavors of white currants and a final zesty minerality.<br />
Screwcap. W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —R.V.<br />
abv: 12% Price: $14<br />
88<br />
Trimbach 2008 Riesling (Alsace). Beautifully<br />
perfumed wine, its white fruits transformed<br />
into a mature, almond and herbal wine, tight<br />
and dry while showing delicious, appetite-enhancing<br />
freshness. Ready to drink now. Esprit du Vin. —R.V.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $25<br />
87<br />
Pierre Sparr 2010 Gewürztraminer (Alsace).<br />
Perfumed wine, all its flavors directed<br />
towards a spice-driven lychee character. Rosehip and<br />
peppered pineapple are layered with soft, ripe texture.<br />
Screwcap. W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $18<br />
86<br />
Domaine Bott-Geyl 2007 Métiss Pinot<br />
Blanc (Alsace). A rich yellow fruit- and pepper-dominated<br />
wine. It is rounded, ripe and soft, with a<br />
maturity that gives flavors of almonds, nutmeg and light<br />
acidity. Vanguard <strong>Wine</strong>s. —R.V.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $16<br />
86<br />
Hugel 2010 Gentil Hugel (Alsace). A dry<br />
blended wine, with attractive rich white fruits,<br />
pears and a citrus streak. The wine has a smooth texture,<br />
perfumed by lychee and with bright acidity to finish.<br />
Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $15<br />
86<br />
Pierre Sparr 2010 Pinot Gris (Alsace).<br />
With a light touch of spice and some richness,<br />
this is a dry style of Pinot Gris. It has a kiwi fruit flavor<br />
along with white fruits, and finishes with pepper. Screwcap.<br />
W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $18<br />
BURGUNDY<br />
WHITE WINES<br />
98<br />
Domaine Leflaive 2009 Bienvenues Bâtard-Montrachet.<br />
With its concentrated yellow<br />
fruits, this is already a powerful wine. It is packed<br />
with acidity, toast, peach flavors and minerality, starting<br />
out as a gorgeously rich wine from a ripe vintage. Of<br />
course, it will age over many years; open in 10 years.<br />
Wilson Daniels Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $410<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>Mag.com | 29
95<br />
Domaine Leflaive 2009 Les Folatières<br />
Premier Cru (Puligny-Montrachet). A wine<br />
that brings out intense minerality, a tight citric tang and<br />
a beautiful structure. With its lime and grapefruit acidity<br />
laid over ripe yellow fruits shot through with toast,<br />
this is a wine that should age many years, mellowing into<br />
an open, generous richness. Wilson Daniels Ltd. Cellar<br />
Selection. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $215<br />
94<br />
Domaine Leflaive 2009 Les Combettes<br />
Premier Cru (Puligny-Montrachet). While<br />
the aromas of this young wine reveal considerable toast,<br />
on the palate the wine brings forward the ripe apricot<br />
and mango flavors to go with that wood. As it matures,<br />
these elements will coalesce with the taut, tense mineral<br />
texture into an superb, ageworthy terroir-driven wine.<br />
Wilson Daniels Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $225<br />
94<br />
Domaine Leflaive 2009 Les Pucelles Premier<br />
Cru (Puligny-Montrachet). This rich<br />
wine balances ripe yellow fruits with intense citrus acidity<br />
in a harmonious whole. Its structure is laden with<br />
minerality, toast and a smooth, delicious creamy aftertaste.<br />
Wilson Daniels Ltd. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $260<br />
94<br />
Domaine Leflaive 2009 Sous le Dos<br />
d’Ane Premier Cru (Meursault). Rich and<br />
rounded, packed with yellow fruits and pineapple flavors,<br />
this is a warm, opulent wine, combining toast and<br />
fruit. True, there is some minerality, but this Meursault<br />
revels in its ripe fruit and generosity. Wilson Daniels<br />
Ltd. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $155<br />
93<br />
Domaine Leflaive 2007 Sous le Dos<br />
d’Ane Premier Cru (Meursault). While the<br />
wine does have richness, it’s the mineral and citrus side<br />
that is coming through at this stage. The balance with<br />
the wood aging is so right that you feel the toast rather<br />
than tasting it. As it matures, the wine will deepen in<br />
intensity and power, certainly over the next 5–10 years.<br />
Wilson Daniels Ltd. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $NA<br />
93<br />
Domaine Leflaive 2009 Clavoillon Premier<br />
Cru (Puligny-Montrachet). A deliciously<br />
fruity wine, its bright apricot, pineapple and<br />
peach flavors open and generous. Of course, there is a<br />
more serious core of structure, lemon zest and dryness<br />
to promise aging. At the end, though, fruit and a light<br />
toastiness give immediate pleasure. Wilson Daniels Ltd.<br />
—R.V.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $145<br />
89<br />
Jean-Marc Brocard 2010 Kimmeridgien<br />
(Bourgogne). Just an edge of butter gives<br />
this wine roundness and extra richness. Along with this<br />
character comes ripe peach fruit, lifted with acidity.<br />
Ready to drink. Screwcap. Vanguard <strong>Wine</strong>s. —R.V.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $18<br />
87<br />
Jean-Marc Brocard 2010 Domaine Sainte<br />
Claire (Saint Bris). With its distinctive herbaceous<br />
edge, the wine has a grapefruit-and-citrus char-<br />
30 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012<br />
acter that offers a bright acidity. It has density and richness,<br />
fruity and forward. Vanguard <strong>Wine</strong>s. —R.V.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $15<br />
87<br />
Olivier Leflaive 2009 Aligoté du Domaine<br />
(Bourgogne Aligoté). From one of the<br />
Leflaive family vineyards close to Puligny-Montrachet,<br />
this is as rich as Aligoté can get. Even so, the texture is<br />
crisp, with fresh kiwi and herbs, finishing with intense<br />
acidity. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.<br />
abv: 12% Price: $17<br />
85<br />
Louis Jadot 2009 Chardonnay (Bourgogne).<br />
Soft, ripe fruit flavors of apple, peach<br />
and melon crispened with acidity. The wine is smooth<br />
and rounded, with a fine, fresh aftertaste. Kobrand.<br />
—R.V.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $17<br />
84<br />
Vignerons de Buxy 2008 Buissonnier<br />
Chardonnay (Bourgogne). Light, creamed<br />
apple fruits with a bright line of fresh acidity. The wine<br />
is exuberant in its citrus character, just broadened by<br />
an underlay of green apples. Metrowine Distribution.<br />
—R.V.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $15<br />
RED WINES<br />
96<br />
Louis Jadot 2009 Corton-Pougets. A<br />
gorgeously rich wine, powered by tannins but<br />
just as importantly by ripe berry fruit and crisp acidity.<br />
Smoky wood flavors blend with juicy fruit, powerful<br />
dark tannins and an intensely fresh finish. Age for seven<br />
years or more. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $110<br />
95<br />
Louis Jadot 2009 Clos de la Barre Premier<br />
Cru (Volnay). The walled Clos de la<br />
Barre is a Jadot monopoly. This 2009 has great depth<br />
of flavor, hinting at the Volnay richness while remaining<br />
structured. That makes it a concentrated wine, red and<br />
black fruits mingling with wood and intense acidity. For<br />
long-term aging over six years and more. Kobrand. Cellar<br />
Selection. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $68<br />
95<br />
Louis Jadot 2009 Les Petits Monts Premier<br />
Cru (Vosne-Romanée). Just up the<br />
slope from the grand cru of La Romanée, Les Petits<br />
Monts has produced a wine that combines structure<br />
with a more opulent character. That gives rich damson<br />
and red plum fruits along with exhilarating acidity and a<br />
firm core of tannin. The wine needs aging for 5–6 years.<br />
Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $115<br />
94<br />
Louis Jadot 2009 Petite Chapelle Premier<br />
Cru (Gevrey-Chambertin). At this<br />
stage, the wine is all dark structure and very firm. It will<br />
need time to develop its full potential as an intensely<br />
rich wine. Concentrated and firm, it is powered by tannins<br />
as well as sweet red fruits. So age for five years at<br />
least. Kobrand. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $85<br />
93<br />
Domaine Faiveley 2009 Les Damodes<br />
Premier Cru (Nuits-St.-Georges). A beautifully<br />
ripe wine, with the new wood just a hint in the<br />
background. The wine has rich red plums and black<br />
cherries, laced with the most intense acidity. It is a<br />
dense, firmly concentrated wine with a long ahead.<br />
Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $90<br />
93<br />
Louis Jadot 2009 Beaune Bressandes<br />
Premier Cru (Beaune). Pure strawberry and<br />
red cherry fruits with a twist of acidity make this a wine<br />
that is already delicious. Just under the surface is a firm<br />
wood-and-tannin character and a dense, if juicy, structure.<br />
Age for 4–5 years. Kobrand. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $44<br />
93<br />
Pierre André 2007 Corton les Renardes<br />
Grand Cru (Corton). Juicy red fruits are the<br />
veneer on a wine that is structured and complex, full of<br />
tight tannins, intense acidity and the promise of a longterm<br />
future. The dry center of the wine holds the exuberant<br />
fruit flavors together, while the aftertaste is all<br />
freshness. William Harrison Imports. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $140<br />
92<br />
Domaine Faiveley 2009 Les Cazetiers<br />
Premier Cru (Gevrey-Chambertin). There<br />
is a lot of power in this wine. It has great weight and<br />
richness and an intense structure. Hanging from the<br />
frame of the wine are dark plum fruits, layers of wood,<br />
sweet spice, complex acidity and dry tannins. Age for<br />
6–7 years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection.<br />
—R.V.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $100<br />
92<br />
Louis Jadot 2009 Vosne-Romanée. Very<br />
structured, as befits a Vosne-Romanée, even a<br />
village wine. The black cherry fruit and layered acidity<br />
are combined with a firm and dry tannic core. There is<br />
power here, and some aging potential. Kobrand. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $56<br />
91<br />
Domaine Faiveley 2009 Clos de l’Eco<br />
Premier Cru (Beaune). A wine that is closed<br />
up at this stage. But beneath the surface there is a wine<br />
that will revel in delicious red fruits with barnyard flavors,<br />
ripe fruits and sweet tannins. As it opens, it reveals<br />
richness and generosity. Frederick Wildman & Sons,<br />
Ltd. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $70<br />
91<br />
Domaine Faiveley 2009 Les Rugiens Premier<br />
Cru (Pommard). Sweet new wood goes<br />
with rich plum skins in a wine that has a firm structure.<br />
The richness of the wine revolves around sweet cherries<br />
and juicy acidity. With the wood still dominant, it needs<br />
at least five years to settle down. Frederick Wildman &<br />
Sons, Ltd. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $115<br />
91<br />
Joseph Drouhin 2009 Pommard. For full<br />
review see page 7.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $50<br />
90<br />
Domaine Emmanuel Giboulot 2009 Lulune<br />
(Beaune). The purity of fruit is the most<br />
striking aspect of this wine. While it is relatively light in
texture, it revels in its fresh red-fruited character that<br />
gives an impressive intensity. With balanced touches of<br />
tannin and acidity, the wine should age well. Domaine<br />
Select <strong>Wine</strong> Estates. —R.V.<br />
abv: 12% Price: $65<br />
90<br />
Joseph Drouhin 2009 Côte de Beaune.<br />
One of the classic wines from Drouhin, this<br />
concentrated and ripe wine has rich tannins, certainly<br />
laced with wood. Plum and red-fruit flavors are a delicious<br />
presence to go with the firm, solid structure. Age<br />
for 3–4 years. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $34<br />
90<br />
Joseph Drouhin 2009 Côte de Beaune-<br />
Villages. For full review see page 8.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $24<br />
89<br />
Domaine Faiveley 2009 Clos des Myglands<br />
Premier Cru (Mercurey). Expect ripe<br />
and open fruit from this Faiveley owned vineyard in<br />
Mercurey. The wine tastes soft, the tannins well integrated<br />
into the ripe cherry and berry fruits. It could age,<br />
but it is ready to drink now. Frederick Wildman & Sons,<br />
Ltd. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $40<br />
89<br />
Domaine Moillard 2009 Rugiens Premier<br />
Cru (Pommard). While it does have the structure<br />
of a Pommard, this is also a ripe, rounded wine. Its<br />
sweet red fruits surround the firm tannins offering richness.<br />
A wine that will offer sold pleasure in 3–4 years.<br />
Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $120<br />
89<br />
Domaine Thierry Mortet 2009 Gevrey-<br />
Chambertin. A beautifully perfumed wine<br />
that shows some of the structure of a Gevrey but combines<br />
this with dark rich fruits and sweet tannins. There<br />
is a smoky flavor that balances the ripe red fruits and<br />
final acidity. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $55<br />
89<br />
Joseph Drouhin 2009 Chorey-les-<br />
Beaune. For full review see page 9. Editors’<br />
Choice.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $25<br />
89<br />
Moillard 2009 Les Saint-Georges Premier<br />
Cru (Nuits-St.-Georges). A firm, darkly<br />
structured wine. It has a hard edge of smoky wood<br />
tannins that dominate the black fruits, so it needs 2–3<br />
years to balance out. It’s always likely to be a firm, dense<br />
wine. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $120<br />
88<br />
Domaine Guillot-Broux 2009 Beaumont<br />
(Mâcon-Cruzille). A dense wine, its tannins<br />
firmly in place. It shows ripe red berry fruits, firm structure<br />
and rich, juicy fruit. Powered by its tannins, it will<br />
remain a firm wine for 2–3 years. Jenny and François<br />
Selections. —R.V.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $NA<br />
88<br />
Joseph Drouhin 2009 Santenay. Rounded<br />
and soft, with gentle tannins. Packed with black<br />
cherry fruits, a herbal edge and sweetness, this is al-<br />
ready an approachable wine, fruity and generous. Dreyfus,<br />
Ashby & Co. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $28<br />
88<br />
Maurice Ecard 2009 Les Serpentières<br />
Premier Cru (Savigny-lès-Beaune). Soft<br />
and ripe, this is a broad wine. Its tannins are enveloped<br />
by the rich plum and damson fruit flavors. It combines<br />
the richness of the vintage with the softness of a Savigny<br />
in an already delicious whole. Kysela Père et Fils.<br />
—R.V.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $48<br />
87<br />
Domaine Emmanuel Giboulot 2009 Sous<br />
le Mont (Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits).<br />
In the 2009 vintage, the wines of the Hautes-Côtes<br />
have an extra richness and warmth. This wine has flavors<br />
of cherries, raspberries that give fine acidity, as well<br />
as fruitiness. The tannins are already well integrated,<br />
finishing a wine that is deliciously juicy. Domaine Select<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> Estates. —R.V.<br />
abv: 12% Price: $45<br />
87<br />
Domaine Guillot-Broux 2010 Beaumont<br />
(Mâcon-Cruzille). A young tannic wine with<br />
jammy, fresh red-cherry fruits and red plum skins. The<br />
acidity is palpable, shooting through the structure, giving<br />
the wine a fresh, fruity aftertaste. Jenny and François<br />
Selections. —R.V.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $NA<br />
87<br />
Joseph Drouhin 2009 Côtes de Nuits-Villages.<br />
A soft, richly fruity cherry-flavored wine.<br />
Its tannins are so round they melt into the fruit. Acidity<br />
gives a deliciously fresh edge to this smooth and almostready-to-drink<br />
wine. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $22<br />
86<br />
Domaine Guillot-Broux 2003 Beaumont<br />
(Mâcon-Cruzille). There aren’t many 2003<br />
wines available today, and this raisin and red fruit flavored<br />
wine shows plenty of attractive ripe flavors. Dried<br />
fruits dominate, giving the wine a Port-like richness, the<br />
tannins now comfortably integrated in the texture. Jenny<br />
and François Selections. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $NA<br />
86<br />
Domaine Moillard 2009 Côte de Nuits-Villages.<br />
A fresh wine with red cherry fruits giving<br />
a bright character, the tannins soft and with attractive<br />
acidity. It is lightly textured and should be ready to<br />
drink in 1–2 years. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $35<br />
85<br />
Domaine Emmanuel Giboulot 2009<br />
Terres Burgondes Pinot Noir (Vin de Pays<br />
de Sainte-Marie la Blanche). A vin de pays from the<br />
hinterland of Burgundy. It is light and layered with intense<br />
red cherry acidity to give a fresh wine that can be<br />
drunk now. Domaine Select <strong>Wine</strong> Estates. —R.V.<br />
abv: 11.5% Price: $NA<br />
85<br />
Domaine Thierry Mortet 2009 Pinot Noir<br />
(Bourgogne). An earthy wine with rich, red<br />
fruits along with a barnyard flavor. The wine is ripe and<br />
jammy, the juicy acidity coming through at the end. Kysela<br />
Père et Fils. —R.V.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $27<br />
85<br />
Garnier et Fils 2009 Epineuil Pinot Noir<br />
(Bourgogne). On the tannic side, this is a<br />
structured although sweetly ripe wine. Red berry fruits<br />
are dominant, along with acidity. Coffee and dry tannins<br />
underneath. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $29<br />
85<br />
Maurice Ecard 2009 Pinot Noir (Bourgogne).<br />
A light and cherry-fresh Pinot Noir<br />
that has soft tannins, some herbal fruit and a juicy aftertaste.<br />
It shows intense acidity as well as final red berry<br />
fruits. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $19<br />
85<br />
Vignerons de Buxy 2009 Blason de Bourgogne<br />
Pinot Noir (Bourgogne). A soft,<br />
raspberry filled wine with a bitter cherry and dry tannic<br />
counter-balance. The wine is light and fruity, although<br />
still with a firm structure. Plume Ridge Negociants.<br />
—R.V.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $NA<br />
SPAIN<br />
WHITE WINES<br />
89<br />
Pazo de Barrantes 2010 Pazo Barrantes<br />
Albariño (Rías Baixas). Pretty to sniff, with<br />
aromas of lemon, fresh white fruits and minerals. Feels<br />
crisp, chiseled and racy, with blazing acidity propelling<br />
green apple, lime, green melon and saline flavors.<br />
Long on the finish. Drink now. Maisons Marques & Domaines<br />
USA. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $19<br />
87<br />
Concertum 2010 Albariño (Rías Baixas).<br />
Saline and oceanic on the bouquet, but largely<br />
it’s neutral-smelling. Feels tight and fresh, but tastes<br />
a bit stalky and bitter, with baked apple and a strong<br />
taste of straw. Finishes with white pepper notes and that<br />
same stalky flavor from before. Well-Oiled <strong>Wine</strong> Company.<br />
—M.S.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $20<br />
84<br />
Villacezan 2010 Elverite Blanco Albarín<br />
(Tierra de León). Citrusy on the nose, with<br />
tangerine and passion fruit aromas, with white grapefruit<br />
and less-defined citrus flavors. Grapefruit persists<br />
on the racy, tangy finish. American Estates <strong>Wine</strong>s, Inc.<br />
—M.S.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $15<br />
84<br />
Zarate 2008 El Palomar Albariño (Rías<br />
Baixas). Waxy and oily on the nose, then narrow<br />
as a thin line on the palate. Feels linear and sharp,<br />
with lemony flavors that come with a green apple accent.<br />
Tastes aged and maderized on the finish, despite<br />
displaying lemony acidity and tartness. Domaine Select<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> Estates. —M.S.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $60<br />
ROSÉS<br />
88<br />
Carlos Serres 2010 Serres Tempranillo-<br />
Garnacha Rosé (Rioja). Red in color, with<br />
fresh aromas of nectarine, orange peel and red currant.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>Mag.com | 31
For a 2010 this is still fresh and sturdy, with cleansing<br />
acidity and focused flavors of citrus and red berry fruit.<br />
Eminently drinkable, with a long finish for basic rosé.<br />
Drink immediately. Testa <strong>Wine</strong>s Of The World. Best<br />
Buy. —M.S.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $10<br />
85<br />
J. Garcia Carrion 2010 Opera Prima<br />
Sweet Pink Rosé (La Mancha). For full review<br />
see page 11. Best Buy.<br />
abv: 10.5% Price: $8<br />
84<br />
Marqués de Riscal 2010 Rosé (Rioja).<br />
Neutral on the nose, with peachy sweetness and<br />
softness that suggests it’s beginning to fade. Feels honest<br />
but light, with pithy, neutral melon and red apple<br />
flavors. Dry but sort of bland; still upright. Drink right<br />
away. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $10<br />
84<br />
Señorio de Uñuela 2010 Rosado Tempranillo<br />
(Rioja). Labors from the start via soft,<br />
punchless aromas of generic red fruit. Feels a little flabby,<br />
with dry, basic flavors of red apple and cantaloupe.<br />
Turns pithy and slightly bitter on the finish. Drink now.<br />
Devo Enterprises Corporation. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $10<br />
83<br />
Tapeña 2010 Rosé (Vino de la Tierra de<br />
Castilla). Neutral, dusty and a bit damp-smelling,<br />
with a leanness to the palate feel as well as flavors<br />
of semitart melon and peach. Decent but fails to excite.<br />
Drink now. Freixenet USA. —M.S.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $10<br />
PRIORAT<br />
92<br />
Gratallops 2006 Partida Bellvisos (Priorat).<br />
Raspberry, cranberry, schist and wild<br />
brush aromas are about as correct for Priorat as you’ll<br />
find. In the mouth, this wine from Sara Pérez and René<br />
Barbier Jr. is lively, racy and pure, with red berry, vanilla,<br />
coconut and tobacco flavors. Finishes long and elegant.<br />
Drink through 2016; 166 cases made. Domaine<br />
Select <strong>Wine</strong> Estates. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $130<br />
91<br />
Marco Abella 2006 Clos Abella (Priorat).<br />
Hard and crusty on first impression, with<br />
smoky, leathery, meaty aromas along with hints of wild<br />
herbs and dark berry fruit. Feels racy and ultraslick,<br />
with cherry, plum and mineral flavors. Hits all the right<br />
notes while not pushing any buttons too hard or too often;<br />
long on the finish. Drink now through 2014. Vinea<br />
Imports. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $68<br />
90<br />
Scala Dei 2006 Cartoixa (Priorat). This<br />
perennially consistent Priorato deals graphite,<br />
coconut, leather, forest and oaky, chocolaty berry aromas<br />
in front of a round, mouthfilling palate. Tastes primarily<br />
of plum, cherry and currant, with a snappy finish<br />
defined by red fruit flavors and length. Perfectly good<br />
and ready; can hold through 2014. Aveniù Brands, Inc.<br />
—M.S.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $52<br />
32 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012<br />
89<br />
Cellers Unió 2006 Roureda Llicorella<br />
Gran Selecció Vitis 60 (Priorat). Aromas of<br />
pencil shavings, marzipan and jammy berry are sweet<br />
and slightly candied. Flavors of Bing cherry, raisin, licorice<br />
and citrus peel are forward and tight, while the finish<br />
is long and flavorful, with some acidic tang. Lively<br />
despite a mild raisiny quality. Drink now through 2013.<br />
Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $30<br />
RIBERA DEL DUERO<br />
93<br />
Emilio Moro 2008 Malleolus de Sanchomartin<br />
(Ribera del Duero). Richer<br />
and more grapey than the Valdorramiro 2008, but also<br />
friendlier, deeper and more complete. Aromas of blackberry,<br />
vanilla and sweet spices lead to a structured,<br />
weighty palate full of spicy, oak-driven berry and plum<br />
flavors. Clove notes and length define the finish. Drink<br />
from 2014–2019 Fine Estates From Spain. Cellar Selection.<br />
—M.S.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $183<br />
92<br />
Bodegas La Horra 2009 Corimbo I (Ribera<br />
del Duero). Dark as night, with charcoal,<br />
campfire, sweet berry and jammy notes to the alluring<br />
bouquet. Lively on the palate, with tangy acidity propelling<br />
black fruit, sweet oak, licorice and spice flavors.<br />
Solid, well built and generally smooth. Excellent Ribera<br />
from a very good year. Drink through 2019. Kobrand.<br />
—M.S.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $63<br />
92<br />
Emilio Moro 2008 Malleolus de Valderramiro<br />
(Ribera del Duero). Serious wine for<br />
serious Ribera lovers, even if it’s from a generally weak<br />
vintage. Smells of bacon grease, graphite and dark berry<br />
fruits. Feels tight and youthfully tannic, with hickory,<br />
smoked meat, clove, toast and blackberry flavors.<br />
Clove and spice rest heavily on the woody finish; needs<br />
time to evolve and absorb its oak treatment. Best from<br />
2013–2018. Fine Estates From Spain. Cellar Selection.<br />
—M.S.<br />
abv: NA Price: $212<br />
91<br />
Martín Berdugo 2008 Crianza (Ribera del<br />
Duero). After it oozes rubber and bacon on the<br />
nose, berry fruit and mild medicinal aromas settle in.<br />
Feels full, tight and structured, with meat, black cherry<br />
and wild berry flavors. Finishes warm, chocolaty and<br />
lightly roasted. Well-made, and impressive for the price.<br />
Puerto Viejo <strong>Wine</strong>s. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $20<br />
90<br />
Convento Oreja 2009 Crianza (Ribera del<br />
Duero). Full, lusty and slightly floral smelling,<br />
with notes of leather, crusty berry and hoisin sauce.<br />
Feels thick, with body and weight along with flavors of<br />
berry, cookie dough and floral hints. Long, meaty and<br />
slightly herbal on the finish, with just enough complexity<br />
to nudge it ahead. Drink now through 2015. Kysela<br />
Père et Fils. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $34<br />
90<br />
Emilio Moro 2008 Malleolus (Ribera del<br />
Duero). Good berry aromas form a nice opening,<br />
and there are solid spice and herbal notes to boot.<br />
Feels juicy, well-cut and tighter than in years past, with<br />
blackberry, tea, spice and cured meat flavors. Oaky on<br />
the back side, but complex and showing potential. Hold<br />
through 2013, then drink. Fine Estates From Spain.<br />
—M.S.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $73<br />
90<br />
Finca La Mata 2009 Ribera del Duero. For<br />
full review see page 7.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $22<br />
90<br />
Prado Rey 2009 Elite Vendimia Seleccionada<br />
(Ribera del Duero). Complex, integrated<br />
and solid up front, with berry aromas, vanilla notes<br />
and toasty oak. Feels full, thick, staunch and balanced,<br />
with deep berry and cherry flavors leading to a toasty,<br />
peppery finish with leftover berry flavors. Well formed<br />
and well oaked, with excellent fruit quality. Drink now<br />
through 2014. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $30<br />
89<br />
Alonso del Yerro 2008 María (Ribera del<br />
Duero). A meaty, bulky, earthy style of Ribera<br />
with smoky, charred, new-oak aromas setting up<br />
a reduced-seeming palate with roasted, sweet flavors of<br />
black fruits and cured meats. Feels rich, sticky and candied<br />
on the finish. Needs a couple of years to knit together;<br />
may improve with bottle age. Fine Estates From<br />
Spain. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $102<br />
89<br />
Viña Vilano 2009 Crianza (Ribera del<br />
Duero). Blackberry aromas blend with opengrained<br />
oak to create a slightly charred bouquet. A bit<br />
acidic and edgy in feel, with a mix of herb, plum and<br />
berry flavors. Tight, juicy and a touch short on the finish,<br />
with dry, peppery spice notes. Drink now through 2014.<br />
European <strong>Wine</strong> Imports. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $20<br />
88<br />
Dominio de Atauta 2009 Parada de Atauta<br />
(Ribera del Duero). Concentrated aromas<br />
of berry fruits, spice and black currant jelly suggest that<br />
the wine is full and rich. In the mouth, severe tannins<br />
create a grinding sensation, while flavors of toast, blackberry,<br />
cassis and brown sugar lead to a heavy, burnt tasting<br />
finish that’s blocky in feel. Aviva Vino. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $25<br />
RIOJA<br />
90<br />
Finca Valpiedra 2006 Reserva (Rioja).<br />
Pure, condensed and dark on the nose, with<br />
blasting aromas of blackberry, crusty spice and char,<br />
this is packed like an overstuffed suitcase, with flavors<br />
of jammy black fruit, fine herbs and spice. Shows more<br />
big fruit on the finish and plenty of lasting berry flavor.<br />
Drink now through 2014. <strong>Wine</strong>bow. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $42<br />
90<br />
Señorio de Uñuela 2006 Reserva (Rioja).<br />
Excellent modern Rioja at a fair price. Smells<br />
solid, with crusty minerality and toasty oak to go with<br />
black fruit aromas. Feels flush and voluminous, with<br />
jammy blackberry, baked fig and coffee flavors. Toasty,<br />
meaty and dark on the finish. Drink now through 2014.
Devo Enterprises Corporation. Editors’ Choice.<br />
—M.S.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $21<br />
88<br />
Bodegas Valdemar 2006 Conde de Valdemar<br />
Reserva (Rioja). Opens with grainy,<br />
whispy aromas of reedy raspberry and smoky blackberry.<br />
Feels tannic and aggressive, so it punches ahead with<br />
lively, firm flavors of raspberry, plum and strawberry.<br />
Finishes oaky, with vanilla and dill notes. Bold Rioja to<br />
drink now. CIV/USA. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $20<br />
88<br />
Señorio de Uñuela 2008 Crianza (Rioja).<br />
Chunky aromas of sweet berry and beets announce<br />
a ripe style of Rioja. The mouthfeel is medium<br />
to full and healthy, with focused flavors of berry, oak and<br />
peppery spice. Long and a little fiery on the finish. Devo<br />
Enterprises Corporation. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $14<br />
88<br />
Viña Hermosa 2007 Crianza (Rioja).<br />
Earthy and subtle on the nose, with mellow<br />
leafy notes, spice and fresh red-fruit aromas. Feels lively<br />
and layered, with integrated flavors of berry fruit, oak<br />
and mocha. Creamy and long on the finish, with just<br />
enough acidity to maintain length and feel. HGC Imports.<br />
—M.S.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $15<br />
87<br />
Bodegas Zugober 2008 Belezos Crianza<br />
(Rioja). Lightly spiced up front, with dry wood<br />
aromas, light cherry and floral hints. Feels juicy and<br />
tight, with basic red-plum flavors that transition quickly<br />
to spice and acidic crispness on a short finish. Casa Ventura<br />
Imports. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $18<br />
87<br />
Carlos Serres 2007 Crianza (Rioja). Light,<br />
minerally and showing red fruit and cocoa notes<br />
on the bouquet. Offers depth and density in support of<br />
sweet, malty, chocolaty berry flavors. Creamy, oaky and<br />
chocolaty on the finish. Uncomplicated and easy to like.<br />
Testa <strong>Wine</strong>s Of The World. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $13<br />
87<br />
Marqués de Cáceres 2008 Crianza (Rioja).<br />
Standard cherry and plum aromas are fresh,<br />
clean and unadulterated by heavy oak, leather or earth<br />
notes. Feels clean and dry, with nice but standard redberry<br />
and plum flavors. Has good flow and feel, with<br />
a light dusting of spice on the finish. Vineyard Brands.<br />
—M.S.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $15<br />
87<br />
Pujanza 2007 Rioja. Dark and bold, with<br />
leafy, slightly mulchy aromas that settle on<br />
earthy and mossy. Feels round and full, with weight,<br />
along with flavors of cola, blackberry and plum. Toasty,<br />
dark and tasting like coffee on the finish. Grapes of<br />
Spain. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $30<br />
87<br />
Rio Madre 2010 Graciano (Rioja). Dark in<br />
color, with plum, berry and medicinal aromas.<br />
Round, full and in good shape, with dark plum, blackberry<br />
and a lot of oak for a $10 wine. Finishes creamy<br />
and big, with a spicy aftertaste. Plump and solid for<br />
value-priced Graciano. Fine Estates From Spain. Best<br />
Buy. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $10<br />
86<br />
Bodegas Breton 2008 Loriñon Crianza<br />
(Rioja). Floral and lightly earthy on the nose,<br />
with a touch of latex. Feels fresh and pure, with fine<br />
acidity pressing bright flavors of red cherry and raspberry.<br />
Gets toastier and darker on the finish, ending with<br />
spice and clarity. Classical <strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $13<br />
86<br />
Carlos Serres 2008 Old Vines Tempranillo<br />
(Rioja). Rooty and mildly sweet on the nose,<br />
then tight and zesty in the mouth, with crisp red-fruit<br />
flavors and citrusy snap. Feels entirely lean and crisp,<br />
even a bit tangy. But sometimes fresh, basic Rioja has<br />
its place. Testa <strong>Wine</strong>s Of The World. Best Buy. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $11<br />
86<br />
Raiza 2010 Altos de Raiza (Rioja). Fresh<br />
raspberry and plum aromas offer an inviting<br />
opening that’s simple, easy and clean. That’s pretty<br />
much the wine in a nutshell: it’s bright and fresh, with<br />
lightly spiced red-berry and plum flavors. Focused and<br />
uncomplicated. Vicente Gandia PLA. Best Buy. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $8<br />
86<br />
Rioja Vega 2006 Reserva (Rioja). Charred<br />
and burnt-smelling, and those aromas are overpowering<br />
although not necessarily bad. Feels big and<br />
tannic, with bite to go with dark flavors of bitter coffee,<br />
roasted black plum and wild berry. The charred, burnt<br />
character that controls the bouquet returns with a fury<br />
on the finish. European Heritage <strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $38<br />
86<br />
Viña Eguía 2008 Crianza (Rioja). Coconut,<br />
vanilla and dill aromas sit on top of solid berry<br />
scents to form a classic Rioja bouquet. Feels fresh and<br />
agile, with acidity that allows the wine to dance around<br />
on the palate. Tastes of red plum, raspberry, mint and<br />
spice. Seems oaky on the finish, but lively. Quintessential<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $15<br />
85<br />
Gran Familia 2008 Rioja. Sweet oak and<br />
mint aromas vie with berry fruit on the bouquet.<br />
Feels chunky, round and full, with sweet plum, ripe berry,<br />
lactic and mint notes. Falls off on the finish, which is<br />
sweet but simple. Well-Oiled <strong>Wine</strong> Company. —M.S.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $13<br />
85<br />
Viña Palaciega 2006 Reserva (Rioja).<br />
Starts with aromas of black cherry and kirsch,<br />
but turns stalky and stemmy fairly quickly. Feels crisp<br />
and a bit hard for a reserva, with herbal, zesty flavors of<br />
roasted red berry. Falls off on the finish, but maintains<br />
good quality. Tri-Vin Imports. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $15<br />
84<br />
Bodegas Martinez Corta 2010 Cepas Antiguas<br />
(Rioja). Prickly smelling, with pointed<br />
red-fruit aromas. Feels snappy and high in acid, with<br />
quick, zippy flavors of tangy red plum and red currant.<br />
Not too much flavor or feel on the quick, crisp finish.<br />
Classical <strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $12<br />
84<br />
Castillo Labastida 2008 Madurado (Rioja).<br />
Gaseous smelling at first, then the nose<br />
transitions to rubbery plum and blackberry. Feels zesty<br />
and spunky, with tangy raspberry, pie cherry and tomato<br />
flavors. Feels racy and juicy, with a tomato-like flavor on<br />
the finish. <strong>Wine</strong>bow. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $11<br />
84<br />
Criadores de Rioja 2008 Castillo de<br />
Clavijo Crianza (Rioja). Smells a bit cheesy<br />
and leathery, with mint and slightly chemical berry aromas.<br />
Chewy in feel, with buttery flavors of red berry and<br />
chocolate. Tastes oaky, minty and forced, but overall it’s<br />
not a bad wine given the price and subpar vintage. Saranty<br />
Imports. —M.S.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $13<br />
84<br />
Marques de Tomares 2007 Reserva (Rioja).<br />
Baked, saucy aromas suggest the wine’s<br />
overall character. It’s ripe and stewy, with a grippy palate<br />
and a flavor profile full of tomato, herbs and red plum.<br />
Tastes herbal and roasted on the finish; aggressive, savory<br />
Rioja. Parador Selections, LLC. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $40<br />
84<br />
Rivarey 2008 Tempranillo (Rioja). Dusty,<br />
dry and lightly spiced aromas frame stalky red<br />
fruit scents. Feels chunky and clampy, with rooty berry<br />
sweetness and rubbery bitterness on the back palate<br />
and finish. Good, but tough around the edges. Vineyard<br />
Brands. Best Buy. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $8<br />
83<br />
Cortijo 2010 Cortijo III Tempranillo-Garnacha<br />
(Rioja). Smells flat and sweet, with a<br />
plastic-like essence. Zesty in feel but angular, with tangy<br />
acids and candied red-fruit flavors along with a pinch of<br />
dry spice. Tastes oaky on the finish. Tempranillo with<br />
20% Garnacha. Ole Imports. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $10<br />
82<br />
Viña Ijalba 2007 Graciano (Rioja). Rooty<br />
aromas come with a caustic side, something akin<br />
to Pine Sol or ammonia. Feels narrow and restricted,<br />
with limited berry flavors, juniper and other weird elements.<br />
An intense wine, but not in the right way. Baron<br />
Francois Ltd. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $20<br />
SHERRY<br />
91<br />
Gonzalez Byass NV Apostoles Palo Cortado<br />
Viejo Sherry. A unique and individual<br />
style of Sherry, even among palo cortados. It’s dark amber<br />
in color, with a pungent mix of aromas that include<br />
molasses, raw brown sugar, chocolate and campfire.<br />
Feels fresh on the tongue, with coffee, dark chocolate<br />
and core peach and citrus flavors. San Francisco <strong>Wine</strong><br />
Exchange. —M.S.<br />
abv: 20% Price: $49/375 ml<br />
91<br />
Hidalgo NV Marqués de Rodil Palo Cortado<br />
Sherry. Light in color, with pecan pie<br />
aromas. There’s nothing heavy or blowsy about this refined<br />
palo cortado; it’s tight in the mouth, with narrowing<br />
acidity and tangy, oily flavors of citrus, almond and<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>Mag.com | 33
ancio. Long as they come on the finish, with zero excess<br />
weight. <strong>Wine</strong>bow. —M.S.<br />
abv: 18% Price: $42<br />
91<br />
Pedro Romero NV Prestige 50 Palo Cortado<br />
Viejísimo Sherry. Nutty as they come,<br />
with a dose of honey on the bouquet. Tastes extremely<br />
nice and powerful, with cleansing acids and complex flavors<br />
of salted peanuts, almond, baked peaches and toffee.<br />
Layered in terms of feel and delivery, with a nutty,<br />
crisp finish. Frontier <strong>Wine</strong> Imports. —M.S.<br />
abv: 18% Price: $125/500 ml<br />
90<br />
Alvear NV Solera Cream Pedro Ximénez<br />
(Montilla-Moriles). Toasty and sweet on the<br />
nose, however it’s not very complex. Feels juicy and refined,<br />
with raisin, fig and date flavors. Long on the finish<br />
and chocolaty tasting, with raisin and a lightness of being.<br />
Sweet within the style, but not unctuous or candied.<br />
Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S.<br />
abv: 18% Price: $29/500 ml<br />
90<br />
Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV Amontillado<br />
Sherry. For affordable amontillado, this<br />
is downright excellent. Smells nutty and oily, maybe a<br />
touch sharp, but well within normal parameters. Feels<br />
fresh, round and comfortable, with lots of core fruit flavor,<br />
nuttiness, sweet toffee and caramel. Finishes with<br />
toasted pecan flavors and peanut butter notes. Semidry<br />
in style. CIV/USA. Best Buy. —M.S.<br />
abv: 18% Price: $15<br />
90<br />
Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV Oloroso<br />
Sherry. For full review see page 10. Best Buy.<br />
abv: 18% Price: $15<br />
90<br />
Hidalgo NV Villapanés Oloroso Seco<br />
Sherry. True as dry oloroso comes, with nutty<br />
aromas combined with caramel richness. Feels raring to<br />
go, with pumped-up acidity that boosts otherwise normal<br />
flavors of dried white fruits, mixed nuts and brine.<br />
Tight, long and driving on the finish. <strong>Wine</strong>bow. —M.S.<br />
abv: NA Price: $42<br />
89<br />
Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV Cream Sherry.<br />
Sweet smelling, but welcoming and true to<br />
the cream style. Feels creamy and soft by Sherry standards,<br />
with prune, raisin, caramel, toffee and chocolate<br />
flavors. Turns a touch bitter on the finish, with a final<br />
dose of raisin, honey and toffee. CIV/USA. —M.S.<br />
abv: 18% Price: $15<br />
88<br />
Pedro Romero NV Prestige 50 Oloroso<br />
Viejísimo Sherry. A fiery, demanding, extremely<br />
power-packed Sherry, with toffee, orange zest,<br />
pecan pie and apricot aromas. Feels tight and high in<br />
acidity, with dry, salty flavors of walnut oil and pecans.<br />
Layered and drying on the finish, with power to spare.<br />
Frontier <strong>Wine</strong> Imports. —M.S.<br />
abv: 18% Price: $75/500 ml<br />
87<br />
Pedro Romero NV Prestige 50 Amontillado<br />
Viejísimo Sherry. A nutty and acidic wine,<br />
with aromas of pressed walnuts and toffee. Feels tight,<br />
sharp and narrow on the tongue, with blazing acidity<br />
and dry, limited, salty flavors that fold in toffee and sour<br />
fruit notes. Exceedingly salty on the finish; smells great<br />
34 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2011<br />
but feels and tastes astringent for such an expensive bottling.<br />
Frontier <strong>Wine</strong> Imports. —M.S.<br />
abv: 18% Price: $100/500 ml<br />
86<br />
Alvear NV Amontillado Pedro Ximénez<br />
(Montilla-Moriles). Sweet toffee, butter pecan<br />
and apricot aromas are the lead-in. This wine has a<br />
light body, decent acidity and mild flavors of burnt banana,<br />
spice and almond paste. Nutty yet basic on the<br />
finish, with a hint of mushroom. Fine Estates From<br />
Spain. —M.S.<br />
abv: 17% Price: $15<br />
86<br />
Alvear NV Cream Pedro Ximénez (Montilla-Moriles).<br />
Quiet on the nose, but by no<br />
means does it smell poor. Feels chunky, with raisin,<br />
prune, brown sugar and baked fruit flavors. Flabby but<br />
flavorful late, with a finish that tastes like caramel and<br />
chocolate powder. Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S.<br />
abv: 18% Price: $15<br />
OTHER OLD WORLD<br />
CROATIA<br />
89<br />
Saints Hills 2009 Dinga Plavac Mali<br />
(Peljesac). There’s so much nuance and complexity<br />
in this rustic yet fascinating Croatian wine, that<br />
it takes a while to break down its components. Initial<br />
scents of dried leaves and mulch blow off to reveal an<br />
array of delicate floral and fruit aromas, accented by<br />
rich chocolate and vanilla notes. Big in both alcohol and<br />
structure, its massively tannic, but smoothes out with<br />
aeration. Decant to drink now, but could easily evolve<br />
for 5–10 years. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Cellar Selection.<br />
—A.I.<br />
abv: 15.9% Price: $65<br />
HUNGARY<br />
94<br />
Royal Tokaji 2003 Essencia (Tokaji). Surprisingly<br />
subtle, yet maddeningly complex, this<br />
is a rare treat to unravel slowly, sip by sip. Sweet and<br />
honeyed on the nose with scents of freesia, orange peel<br />
and stone fruit, but accented with just a hint of sundried<br />
hay. The palate is deeply concentrated with undulating<br />
waves of honey, beeswax and fruit, but balanced<br />
with striking tangerine acidity. Remarkably long on the<br />
finish. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —A.I.<br />
abv: 2.2% Price: $764/375 ml<br />
92<br />
Royal Tokaji 2007 Red Label Aszú 5 Puttonyos<br />
(Tokaji). For full review see page 6.<br />
abv: 11.5% Price: $43/500 ml<br />
91<br />
Royal Tokaji 2009 Mád Cuvée Late Harvest<br />
(Tokaji). For full review see page 7. Editor’s<br />
Choice.<br />
abv: 9.5% Price: $20/375 ml<br />
MOLDOVA<br />
85<br />
Exclusiv NV Rose Spumos Moscato (Moldova).<br />
Grapy and floral with loads of rose petal<br />
notes, this Moscato is perfumey on the nose and palate.<br />
Exuberantly frothy and mouth-filling, the palate is<br />
fleshy with sweet ripe grapes, with just a hint of stems<br />
and leaves on the finish. Serge Import LLC. Best Buy.<br />
—A.I.<br />
abv: 10% Price: $10<br />
ROMANIAN WHITES<br />
88<br />
Cramele Halewood 2010 Theia Limited<br />
Edition Chardonnay (Sebes). Pristine on<br />
the nose and palate, this dry, full-bodied Chardonnay is<br />
a prime example of how thoroughly modern Romanian<br />
winemaking can be. Juicy and floral with pretty hints<br />
of apple blossoms, it’s creamy and rich in texture, yet<br />
impeccably refreshing on the finish. Terra Firma USA<br />
Inc. —A.I.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $20<br />
85<br />
Cramele Recas 2010 Heavenly Retreat<br />
Semi-sweet Riesling (Recas). White floral<br />
aromas are pure and fresh in this apple-inflected Romanian<br />
Riesling. Soft on the palate, with restrained acidity<br />
and a delicate, almost lacy structure, it finishes with<br />
a hint of powdered sugar sweetness. Terra Firma USA<br />
Inc. Best Buy. —A.I.<br />
abv: 12% Price: $9<br />
84<br />
Cramele Halewood 2009 Single Vineyard<br />
Selection Scurta Vineyard Viognier-Tamaioasa<br />
Romaneasca (Dealurile Munteniei). Exuberantly<br />
fragrant of ripe, tropical fruit and florals, this<br />
Romanian white blend veers towards confected, but it’s<br />
pleasantly brisk and apple-y on the palate. A good apéritif<br />
for casual, weekday enjoyment. Terra Firma USA<br />
Inc. —A.I.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $12<br />
84<br />
Serve 2010 Terra Romana Chardonnay<br />
(Dealu Mare). Darkly toasted oak lends a veil<br />
of smoke and char to apple and lemon flavors in this<br />
dry, full-bodied Chardonnay. There are hints of stems<br />
and leaves on the midpalate, but overall, it’s a well-composed<br />
wine with balanced acidity and alcohol. Terra Firma<br />
USA Inc. —A.I.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $10<br />
84<br />
Serve 2010 Terra Romana Sauvignon<br />
Blanc-Feteasca Alba (Dealu Mare). Appley<br />
on the nose and palate, with just a hint of dust and<br />
green leaves, this blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Feteasca<br />
Alba is refreshing, with striking acidity. Dry and medium<br />
bodied in style. Terra Firma USA Inc. Best Buy.<br />
—A.I.<br />
abv: NA Price: $9<br />
ROMANIAN REDS<br />
89<br />
Cramele Halewood 2009 Hyperion Limited<br />
Edition Feteasca Neagra (Dealu<br />
Mare). While sweet on the nose with aromas of blueberry<br />
preserves and fruitcake, the palate on this dry Romanian<br />
red is refreshingly restrained, with a fresh herbal<br />
tone that accents its ample fruit flavors. A fascinating<br />
study of the Feteasca Neagra grape, there’s a surprising<br />
amount of elegance that peeks through its initial rusticity.<br />
Terra Firma USA Inc. —A.I.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $47
89<br />
Cramele Halewood 2009 Kronos Limited<br />
Edition Pinot Noir (Dealu Mare). Delicate<br />
yet beguiling, with aromas of violets, ripe pomegranates<br />
and granite, there’s an Old World elegance that sets this<br />
Romanian Pinot Noir apart. The palate is concentrated,<br />
with crisp red cherry and plum flavors, but keenly balanced<br />
by brisk acidity and soft, finely-grained tannins.<br />
Structured and refined with a medium long finish. Terra<br />
Firma USA Inc. —A.I.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $20<br />
88<br />
Cramele Halewood 2009 Hyperion Limited<br />
Edition Cabernet Sauvignon (Dealu<br />
Mare). There’s a striking minerality that adds depth<br />
to varietally characteristic scents of ripe cassis, violets<br />
and cedar. Full bodied and densely concentrated, with<br />
sweet, black-fruit flavor, it’s balanced by brisk acidity<br />
and fresh herb flavors that linger on the finish. Terra<br />
Firma USA Inc. —A.I.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $30<br />
87<br />
Serve 2007 Terra Romana Cuvée Alexandru<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon (Dealu Mare).<br />
Whiffs of wet earth and wood add a rustic, foresty tone<br />
to aromas of preserved black fruit and violets. Big in<br />
both body and tannins, decanting could coax this wine<br />
into revealing more subtleties of fruit and minerals that<br />
may otherwise go unnoticed. Terra Firma USA Inc.<br />
—A.I.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $59<br />
85<br />
Serve 2010 Terra Romana Chevalier de<br />
Dyonis Pinot Noir (Dealurile Munteniei).<br />
Charred wood notes on the nose and palate lend a<br />
smoky, slightly herbal tone to dense, richly concentrated<br />
black-cherry flavors. The char subsides substantially<br />
with aeration, revealing a well-composed wine that balances<br />
power with elegance. Terra Firma USA Inc. Best<br />
Buy. —A.I.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $8<br />
84<br />
Cramele Halewood 2009 Vitis Metamorfosis<br />
Merlot (Dealu Mare). Hints of rose<br />
petals are a curious contrast to earthier scents of soil<br />
and beets on this full bodied, slightly chunky Romanian<br />
Merlot. Pleasant for everyday dining; flavors of charred<br />
wood and preserved plum would pair nicely with an assortment<br />
of smoked meats and cheeses. Terra Firma<br />
USA Inc. —A.I.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $15<br />
TURKEY<br />
88<br />
Kayra 2008 Vintage Single Vineyard Collecible<br />
Series #5 Öküzgözü (Elazig).<br />
Clean and bright on the nose, with loads of black plums<br />
and blueberries. This wine, made from Öküzgözü<br />
grapes, is an interesting glimpse into Turkish winemaking.<br />
Dry and medium bodied, with a firm tannic structure<br />
and brisk acidity, it finishes with a hint of milk chocolate<br />
flavor. Could benefit from decanting, but would<br />
be an interesting to age as well. Maritime <strong>Wine</strong> Trading<br />
Collective. Cellar Selection. —A.I.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $20<br />
86<br />
Kayra 2006 Imperial Red (Elazig). Rustic<br />
on the nose, with scents of dried herbs and grass<br />
that mingle with pretty rose and tea-leaf notes, this wine<br />
is an unusual blend of Turkish Öküzgözü and Bo azkere<br />
grapes with Syrah and Petit Verdot. Full bodied and soft<br />
on the palate, with ripe, red-fruit and mocha-chocolate<br />
flavor, it finishes with a coating of furry tannins. Maritime<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> Trading Collective. —A.I.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $25<br />
UKRAINE<br />
86<br />
Artemovsk 2010 KrimSekt Matured Rosy<br />
Semi-Dry (Ukraine). Aromatic, with notes<br />
of fresh red raspberries and sweet biscuit crumbs, this<br />
semisweet red sparkler is fun and fruity, but surprisingly<br />
brisk and quaffable. Exuberantly frothy, with a rich,<br />
mouth-filling foam, it finishes with just a whiff of dust<br />
and a sweet, red-berry note. Palmetto State Imports.<br />
—A.I.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $13<br />
85<br />
Artemovsk 2010 KrimSekt Red Matured<br />
Semi-Sweet (Ukraine). Sweet blackberry<br />
and blueberry notes are deeply concentrated on the<br />
nose and palate of this Ukrainian semisweet red sparkler.<br />
Softly pétillant, it’s unabashedly fun and fruity, but<br />
an enjoyable choice for casual entertaining. Palmetto<br />
State Imports. —A.I.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $13<br />
85<br />
Artemovsk 2010 KrimSekt White Matured<br />
Semi-Dry Muscat (Ukraine). Sweetly floral<br />
on the nose and palate, with hints of peach gummy candy,<br />
this off-dry Muscat sparkling might seem a bit confected,<br />
but it’s nicely concentrated, with pure, clean flavors<br />
of peach and apricot nectar. Aggressive on the attack<br />
and finishes briskly. Palmetto State Imports. —A.I.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $13<br />
84<br />
Artemovsk 2008 KrimSekt White Collection<br />
Semi-Dry (Ukraine). Fresh apple notes<br />
on the nose of this off-dry sparkling are pretty, but hindered<br />
by whiffs of dust and green stems. Softly pétillant<br />
with a creamy, mouth-filling froth, it finishes with a<br />
pleasantly sweet note. An unusual blend of Pinot Franc,<br />
Chardonnay, Aligote and Riesling. Palmetto State Imports.<br />
—A.I.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $13<br />
83<br />
Artemovsk 2008 KrimSekt White Collection<br />
Brut (Ukraine). The nose is a tad dusty,<br />
with hints of unripe fruit and leaves, but the palate on<br />
this brut sparkling is clean and lemony, with a sharp,<br />
steely profile. Aggressive on the attack, with a stark,<br />
brisk acidity, it finishes with abundantly mouth-filling<br />
froth. Palmetto State Imports. —A.I.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $13<br />
SOUTH AFRICA<br />
CHENIN BLANC<br />
91<br />
Graham Beck 2009 Bowed Head Chenin<br />
Blanc (Paarl). A ripe and forward style with<br />
upfront notes of pineapple, softly-grilled peach, juicy<br />
melon and a touch of spice. The mouthfeel is round and<br />
rich, but with enough acidic cut to keep the palate fresh<br />
and lively through the long finish. Flavors of sweet or-<br />
ange citrus and ripe green fig linger endlessly. Maritime<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> Trading Collective. —L.B.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $28<br />
90<br />
Rudera 2009 Robusto Chenin Blanc<br />
(Stellenbosch). Attractively ripe aromas<br />
of melon and softly baked apples lead the nose, with<br />
a touch of sweet smokiness, almost like cured bacon,<br />
following close behind. Medium weight with balanced,<br />
lifting acidity and a spice-infused clementine rind finish.<br />
DRG Imports. —L.B.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $21<br />
89<br />
Rudera 2009 De Tradisie Chenin Blanc<br />
(Stellenbosch). This Chenin seems to have<br />
an older soul than its peers, with mature notes of honeyed<br />
almond and sweet spice that infiltrate the Anjou<br />
pear and hard peach flavors. Citrus pith adds a touch of<br />
bitterness to the otherwise toasty, sweet spice-infused<br />
finish. DRG Imports. —L.B.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $19<br />
89<br />
Spice Route 2009 Chenin Blanc (Swartland).<br />
A brilliant gold color, this Chenin boasts<br />
wood-infused fruit notes of pear, peach pit and melon<br />
alongside accents of honeysuckle and toasted brioche.<br />
The round, slightly slick mouthfeel is elevated with a<br />
mouthwatering acidic cut to the close. Vineyard Brands.<br />
—L.B.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $15<br />
SAUVIGNON BLANC<br />
90<br />
Lomond 2010 Pincushion Vineyard Sauvignon<br />
Blanc (Cape Agulhas). A delicious<br />
Sauv Blanc from one of the coolest areas of South Africa,<br />
it takes a while for this wine to fully express itself.<br />
Green pepper and grass start on the nose, but then<br />
subside to allow green fig, lime rind and tart tropical<br />
fruit accents to unfold. Balanced and refreshing, with<br />
a fynbos herb note that remains through the long finish,<br />
almost like fresh hops. Stanfield & Stuart <strong>Wine</strong> Co.<br />
—L.B.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $25<br />
89<br />
Morgenhof 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Simonsberg-Stellenbosch).<br />
Lemon verbena<br />
and green grass aromas waft from the glass, with secondary<br />
notes of grapefruit and stone fruit to round it<br />
out. Vibrant acidity brightens this medium-weight<br />
mouth, with a touch of green plum-skin flavor and soft<br />
bitterness remaining through the lively finish. Terry<br />
Seitz. —L.B.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $19<br />
88<br />
Constantia Glen 2010 Sauvignon Blanc<br />
(Constantia). There’s a ripe orange-oil streak<br />
in the background of the bouquet, boosting rich aromas<br />
of tropical fruit and hay. The texture is full but framed<br />
by cleansing acidity and a tart, slightly pithy accent on<br />
the close. Amara <strong>Wine</strong>s LLC. —L.B.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $15<br />
88<br />
Southern Right 2010 Sauvignon Blanc<br />
(Walker Bay). Hay, green plum and gooseberry<br />
lead off on the nose, while ripe hints of passion<br />
fruit and pineapple acidity flood the mouth. Lifted, with<br />
good cut and freshness, and a mouthwatering close. De-<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>Mag.com | 35
licious now, but should hold together nicely for another<br />
couple of years. Vineyard Brands. —L.B.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $19<br />
88<br />
Steenberg 2010 Private Cellar Series<br />
Sauvignon Blanc (Coastal Region). Tart<br />
and fresh, with lovely aromas of grass, green plum<br />
and asparagus. Glimmers of stony minerality flash on<br />
the palate, with lime pith and plum skin flavors driving<br />
through to the mouthwatering finish. Brisk and slightly<br />
pricky texture. Maritime <strong>Wine</strong> Trading Collective.<br />
—L.B.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $16<br />
88<br />
Thelema 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Stellenbosch).<br />
There’s a detectible fynbos character<br />
to the herbal edge of this wine, mingling with the white<br />
peach and gooseberry fruit aromas and flavors. A clementine<br />
citrus edge remains through the long finish.<br />
Cape Classics. —L.B.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $20<br />
86<br />
Glen Erskine 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Elgin).<br />
A good value selection, with green notes<br />
of bell pepper, asparagus and lime on the nose and in<br />
the mouth. Lightweight, with good lift and a herbal<br />
character that lingers on the finish. The Triton Collection.<br />
—L.B.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $12<br />
86<br />
Morgenhof 2010 Fantail Sauvignon Blanc<br />
(Stellenbosch). Solid and straightforward,<br />
this refreshing and vibrant Sauv Blanc is light and approachable,<br />
with aromas and flavors of lemon, sweet<br />
grass and pineapple core throughout. A crowd-pleasing<br />
selection for entertaining. Terry Seitz. —L.B.<br />
abv: 11.5% Price: $19<br />
85<br />
Thelema 2010 Sutherland Sauvignon<br />
Blanc (Elgin). A bit muted and shy on the<br />
nose, with faint accents of fresh grass, sweet citrus and<br />
just-ripe gooseberry. The palate offers a pithy-citrus flavor,<br />
adding a touch of bitterness to the clean close. Cape<br />
Classics. —L.B.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $15<br />
CHARDONNAY<br />
92<br />
Hamilton Russell 2010 Chardonnay<br />
(Hemel en Aarde). Hamilton Russell just<br />
knows how to do Chard right, striking superb balance<br />
and finesse in a wine that’s drinkable now but can age<br />
for another five-plus years. Baked apple, barely-ripe<br />
honeydew, lemon custard and a touch of beeswax dance<br />
in the bouquet and transition seamlessly into the softlytoasted<br />
palate. A beautiful seam of acidity threads it all<br />
together and lifts the lengthy finish. Vineyard Brands.<br />
—L.B.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $32<br />
91<br />
Buitenverwachting 2010 Chardonnay<br />
(Constantia). Rich, ripe and full aromas of<br />
baked apple and melon are laced with spicy accents of<br />
cinnamon, ginger and vanilla bean. Medium weight but<br />
well-balanced in the mouth; bright acidity and minerality<br />
tie everything together on the palate. A lime flavor<br />
lingers on the long close, followed finally by a touch<br />
36 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012<br />
of spice. Drink now–2015. Cape Classics. Editors’<br />
Choice. —L.B.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $20<br />
91<br />
Rustenberg 2010 Chardonnay (Stellenbosch).<br />
A stunning Chard that shows the<br />
greatness of the vintage in the wine’s superb balance between<br />
ripe fruit flavors of pear and melon and vibrant<br />
acidity. Soft floral accents add depth to the nose, while<br />
well-integrated oak flavors infuse the palate and spice<br />
up the long finish. Delicious now, but shows promise<br />
for some aging. Cape Classics. Editors’ Choice. —L.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $20<br />
91<br />
Rustenberg 2009 Five Soldiers Chardonnay<br />
(Stellenbosch). Named after five stone<br />
pine trees that stand over the vineyards, this small-production<br />
Chard is lush and toasty, offering great weight<br />
and richness followed by a long, nutty finish. Notes<br />
of red apple skin and peach are accented by hints of<br />
white clover and honeysuckle that unfold with time in<br />
the glass. Brisk lime-flavored acidity lifts the mouth and<br />
provides freshness to the palate. Cape Classics. —L.B.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $38<br />
91<br />
Vins d’Orrance 2010 Cuvée Anaïs Chardonnay<br />
(Western Cape). Named for the<br />
winemaker’s youngest daughter, this ripe and sweet selection<br />
boasts intense oak-driven aromas of butter and<br />
creamy vanilla that mingle well with the honeydew, pear<br />
and peach notes. Thankfully, there’s good cut to the<br />
round mouthfeel, as zesty orange-flavored acidity keeps<br />
the finish fresh and long. Drink now–2014. Broadbent<br />
Selections, Inc. —L.B.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $33<br />
90<br />
Hartenberg 2009 Chardonnay (Stellenbosch).<br />
Rich and round but not overdone,<br />
with a nice brightness to the apple, clementine and<br />
white peach aromas and flavors. Balanced and well-integrated,<br />
with all of the components working together<br />
in harmony. Closes on a brisk citrus-rind finish. Drink<br />
now–2014. Terry Seitz. —L.B.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $32<br />
89<br />
Thelema 2009 Sutherland Chardonnay<br />
(Elgin). Forward aromas of sweet spice<br />
and baked apple lead the nose, while secondary hints<br />
of cobbler and vanilla cream follow. The palate is lush<br />
and ripe, but it’s kept in check by a streak of acidity that<br />
braces up the nutty finish. Rich, balanced and accessible.<br />
Cape Classics. —L.B.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $15<br />
84<br />
Fairvalley 2009 Chardonnay (Western<br />
Cape). Flashy aromas of toast and butter<br />
mingle with tropical fruit aromas and flavors. There’s<br />
a touch of warmth on the nose, and the mouthfeel is<br />
round and fleshy. Drink now. World Premiere <strong>Wine</strong>s<br />
LLC. —L.B.<br />
abv: 13.8% Price: $11<br />
VIOGNIER<br />
88<br />
Spice Route 2010 Viognier (Swartland).<br />
Delicate sweet-pea and white-flower aromas<br />
marry into forward fruit notes of fresh pear and hard<br />
apricot. A mineral streak weaves through the lush palate,<br />
and a peach pit nuttiness lingers into the finish. Accessible<br />
and enjoyable now. Vineyard Brands. —L.B.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $23<br />
88<br />
Spice Route 2009 Viognier (Swartland).<br />
Decadent scents of buttered brioche, honeydew<br />
and crushed yellow flowers lead the nose, while flavors<br />
of grilled yellow peaches and orange oil flood the palate.<br />
The mouthfeel is round and full, but countered by<br />
medium acidity and a slightly bitter note on the close.<br />
Vineyard Brands. —L.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $22<br />
86<br />
Radford Dale 2009 Viognier (Stellenbosch).<br />
Flashy notes of wood-grilled apple,<br />
brioche and apricot fill the nose. The mouth is round<br />
and the palate spicy, as flavors of ginger and cedar<br />
dominate the stone fruit. World Premiere <strong>Wine</strong>s LLC.<br />
—L.B.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $25<br />
MOSCATO<br />
86<br />
Jam Jar 2011 Moscato (Western Cape).<br />
Soft floral hints add depth to the otherwise<br />
straightforward ripe peach and white gummy bear aromas.<br />
There’s a good balance in the mouth, with a nice<br />
acidic lift and slightly bitter edge to cut the sweetness<br />
on the finish and close with the faintest hint of astringency.<br />
Cape Classics. —L.B.<br />
abv: 10% Price: $12<br />
84<br />
Makulu NV Sustainable Agriculture Perlè<br />
Moscato (Western Cape). A spritzy and effervescent<br />
selection, the carbonation helps to lift the inherent<br />
sweet fruit aromas and flavors of guava, peach<br />
and mushy pear. An ideal choice for a warm summer<br />
day by the pool, served very cold. Prestige <strong>Wine</strong> Group.<br />
Best Buy. —L.B.<br />
abv: 6.5% Price: $7<br />
84<br />
Two Oceans 2011 Moscato (Western<br />
Cape). Sweet but not overdone, with attractive<br />
aromas of lychee, peach and rose water. Medium<br />
weight, with a fruity but somewhat thin finish. Drink<br />
now. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —L.B.<br />
abv: 7.5% Price: $10<br />
83<br />
Chaza NV Moscato (Western Cape).<br />
Sweet aromas and flavors of peach and lychee<br />
are accented by a hint of fresh rose petals. A soft spritz<br />
in the mouth cleans up the finish. Drink now. Prestige<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> Group. Best Buy. —L.B.<br />
abv: 6.5% Price: $5<br />
WHITE BLENDS<br />
92<br />
Bizoe 2010 Henrietta Semillon-Sauvignon<br />
Blanc (Western Cape). This beautiful<br />
Semillon-dominant blend that shows great finesse,<br />
depth and power. Rich and opulent in every way, notes<br />
of baked red apple, lemon verbena, honey-drizzled<br />
peach and sweet orange oil flood the nose and mouth,<br />
while additional flavors of hazelnut cream, fig bread<br />
and soft sweet spice carry into the long finish. Round,<br />
but with enough acidic lift to keep it from being flab-
y. Drink now–2015. The Triton Collection. Editors’<br />
Choice. —L.B.<br />
abv: 12.8% Price: $30<br />
90<br />
A.A. Badenhorst Family <strong>Wine</strong>s 2009<br />
White Blend (Coastal Region). A complex,<br />
kitchen-sink blend of 29% Chenin Blanc, 23% Roussanne,<br />
11% Viognier, 11% Chardonnay, 10% Grenache<br />
Blanc, 5% Colombar, 5% Grenache Gris, 2% Sémillon,<br />
2% Clairette and 1% Verdelho, there’s a lot to be discovered<br />
in this wine. Melon, pear and sweet citrus lead<br />
the bouquet, with nuances of orange blossom and honeysuckle,<br />
while spicy flavors of baked apple, glazed canteloupe<br />
and lightly-mulled pear flood the palate. Round<br />
and forward, with a silky texture; give it time to open up<br />
now or hold another couple of years. Broadbent Selections,<br />
Inc. —L.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $42<br />
87<br />
Bradgate 2010 Sauvignon Blanc-Chenin<br />
Blanc (Stellenbosch). A lovely blend of 77%<br />
Sauvignon Blanc and 23% Chenin Blanc, this light and<br />
lively wine is direct and focused, with good briskness<br />
to the green plum, fig and pear notes. A touch of floral<br />
character adds depth to the bouquet, while a lemon rind<br />
bitterness unfolds on the end. World Premiere <strong>Wine</strong>s<br />
LLC. —L.B.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $14<br />
86<br />
Boekenhoutskloof 2010 The Wolftrap<br />
Viognier-Chenin Blanc-Grenache Blanc<br />
(Western Cape). This blend of 67% Viognier, 19%<br />
Chenin Blanc and 14% Grenache Blanc is crisp and<br />
tasty, with forward aromas of pear, hard peach, yellow<br />
florals and a touch of oak-driven spice. Roundly structured,<br />
with a lush texture and a nice, clean herbal characteristic<br />
to the close. Drink now. Vineyard Brands.<br />
Best Buy. —L.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $11<br />
MERLOT<br />
90<br />
Ernie Els 2009 Merlot (Stellenbosch). A<br />
dark and rich style of Merlot, this wine boasts<br />
intense aromas and flavors of black forest berries, plum<br />
flesh, cocoa powder and pencil shavings. Succulent,<br />
with a creamy texture, the tannins are fine but mouthcoating<br />
and provide a good frame to the sultry flavors.<br />
Chocolate and cedar spice linger on the close. Terlato<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>s International. —L.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $25<br />
87<br />
Glenelly 2009 The Glass Collection Merlot<br />
(Stellenbosch). Jammy black fruit and<br />
berry notes fill the nose and mouth, while a hint of<br />
bramble and milk chocolate add depth and interest.<br />
Medium weight, with dusty but structured tannins, and<br />
a fudgy finish. Cape Classics. —L.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $20<br />
87<br />
Ken Forrester 2009 Merlot (Stellenbosch).<br />
Herbal accents grace the black plum<br />
and berry aromas and flavors, and a touch of biltong<br />
spice and meat mingle with the fruit for added character.<br />
Approachable and soft, with delicate tannins and an<br />
easy, friendly finish. Drink now. Cape Classics. —L.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $22<br />
86<br />
Helderberg Wijnmakerij 2009 Merlot<br />
(Stellenbosch). Red plum and small berries<br />
lead the nose of this Merlot, with hints of dusty dried<br />
blackberry in the back. The palate offers similar flavors,<br />
with a touch of sweet spice hanging on to the short but<br />
clean finish. Vineyard Brands. —L.B.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $13<br />
PINOTAGE<br />
91<br />
Fairview 2009 Primo Pinotage (Coastal<br />
Region). A stunning Pinotage that shows<br />
great varietal character in its aromas and flavors of black<br />
cherry and currant infused with spicy notes of biltong,<br />
bark, clay, cinnamon and soft tar. The wine is firmly<br />
structured, with gripping tannins and medium acidity,<br />
striking a balance between the astringency of the tannins<br />
and freshness of the fruit. Nuances of baking spice<br />
and fudge linger on the close. Tight now; try after 2015.<br />
Vineyard Brands. —L.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $30<br />
90<br />
Spice Route 2009 Pinotage (Swartland).<br />
For full review see page 8.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $23<br />
89<br />
Lions Drift 2009 Silkbush Mountain Vineyards<br />
Pinotage (Breedekloof). Dusty dark<br />
cherry and blackberry fruit dominate the nose, with secondary<br />
aromas of game, peppery spice and tobacco. The<br />
dark fruit character continues on the palate, transitioning<br />
into the finish, which is laced with hints of mocha<br />
and spice. Medium weight, with nice vibrancy in the<br />
mouth. Drink now-2015. South Atlantic <strong>Wine</strong>s. —L.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $18<br />
MOURVÈDRE<br />
87<br />
Tormentoso 2009 Mourvèdre (Paarl).<br />
Fleshy black-plum, cherry and blackberry notes<br />
lead this medium-weight wine, with a light dusting of<br />
cocoa powder. Dark but vibrant in the mouth, with a<br />
good amount of pepper and licorice on the finish. Drink<br />
now. Vineyard Brands. —L.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $13<br />
RED BLENDS<br />
93<br />
Ernie Els 2007 Signature (Stellenbosch).<br />
The 2007 vintage was generally a great one for<br />
Bordeaux-style reds in Stellenbosch, and the Els Signature<br />
definitely demonstrates it. Sure, it’s ripe and sexy<br />
with a lot of sweet oak characteristics like cocoa powder<br />
and smoky wood, but it’s got the ripe fruit core of black<br />
plum and dark forest berries to back it up. Spicy layers<br />
of leather, cigar box and black tea leaves add complexity<br />
to the palate, while chewy tannins provide a firm structure.<br />
A bit young now, so try after 2015. Terlato <strong>Wine</strong>s<br />
International. —L.B.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $95<br />
92<br />
Meerlust 2007 Rubicon (Stellenbosch).<br />
One of the best vintages of Rubicon to date, and<br />
for the price it’s a fantastic value that’s great for building<br />
up your cellar. Right now, the wine is still young and<br />
tight, with firm, gripping tannins that need some time to<br />
mellow. Fortunately, there’s a great concentrated blackfruit<br />
core and enough acidity alongside the tannins to<br />
support long-term aging. Spicy and earthy, with accents<br />
of black tea, cedar and crushed violets. Try after 2016.<br />
Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. Cellar Selection.<br />
—L.B.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $31<br />
91<br />
Constantia Glen 2008 Five (Constantia).<br />
This stunning Bordeaux-style blend opens with<br />
ripe aromas of black fruits like cherry, currant and plum,<br />
laced with a serious licorice and spice streak that shows<br />
staying power. The seductive mouthfeel boasts a slightly<br />
creamy texture with mouthfilling tannins. The palate is<br />
loaded with mulled boysenberry. Hints of tobacco, mocha<br />
and sweet spice all linger on the long close. Amara<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>s LLC. —L.B.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $38<br />
90<br />
A.A. Badenhorst Family <strong>Wine</strong>s 2010 Secateurs<br />
Red Blend (Coastal Region). A<br />
complex blend of 75% Shiraz, 10% Cinsault, 8% Cab<br />
Sauv, 6% Gren and 1% each of Carignan and Mourvèdre,<br />
this is a concentrated and flavorful selection that’s<br />
brimming with raspberry sauce and dark berry fruit<br />
aromas and flavors. Framed by black tea, sweet spice<br />
and vanilla bean accents, the mouth is firmly structured<br />
with medium tannins and acidity, ending on a soft, roasty<br />
note. Broadbent Selections, Inc. Editors’ Choice.<br />
—L.B.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $17<br />
90<br />
Constantia Glen 2008 Three (Constantia).<br />
A great value, this Merlot-dominant blend,<br />
with splashes of Cab Sauv and Cab Franc exudes ripe<br />
aromas and flavors of rich dark fruit and berries jazzed<br />
up with layers of cigar tobacco, leather, savory herbs and<br />
tree bark. Concentrated and mouthfilling, with a velvety<br />
texture, it’s a well-balanced wine with fine, but persistent<br />
tannins and a lengthy finish. Amara <strong>Wine</strong>s LLC.<br />
—L.B.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $24<br />
90<br />
Mulderbosch 2008 Faithful Hound (Stellenbosch).<br />
Brims with dark fruit notes of<br />
mulled boysenberry, cassis and black cherry, all streaked<br />
with spicy accents of menthol and black tea leaves. The<br />
mouthfeel is slightly creamy, but framed by medium<br />
tannins. Notes of licorice stick, espresso and roasted cocoa<br />
nibs linger through the long close. Drink now–2014.<br />
Cape Classics. —L.B.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $22<br />
89<br />
Edgebaston 2010 The Pepper Pot (Stellenbosch).<br />
An interesting blend of equal<br />
parts Syrah and Mourvèdre wiith 8% Tannat, The Pepper<br />
Pot offers concentrated aromas and flavors of dark<br />
forest berries and fleshy black plums. A hint of leather<br />
and game unfolds on the finish, while medium acidity<br />
keeps the flavors fresh on the palate. Southern Starz,<br />
Inc. —L.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $15<br />
88<br />
Ernie Els 2010 Big Easy Red (Western<br />
Cape). A kitchen-sink blend of 60% Shiraz,<br />
20% Cab Sauv, 7% Grenache, 6% Mourvèdre, 4% Cinsault<br />
and 3% Viognier. Aromas of crushed violet pet-<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>Mag.com | 37
als are pitted against the intense mulled-raspberry and<br />
black-fruit core. Drinkable now, with approachable tannins<br />
and a dusty, cocoa-sprinkled finish, but could age<br />
until 2014. Terlato <strong>Wine</strong>s International. —L.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $20<br />
88<br />
Releaf 2010 Made With Organically<br />
Grown Grapes Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot-Shiraz<br />
(Western Cape). For full review see page<br />
11. Best Buy.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $12<br />
88<br />
Tormentoso 2009 Syrah-Mourvèdre<br />
(Paarl). For full review see page 11. Best Buy.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $13<br />
87<br />
Ken Forrester 2010 Petit Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot<br />
(Western Cape). It takes some<br />
time for this wine to open up in the glass, but when it<br />
does you’re greeted with black cherry and cassis aromas<br />
laced with hints of cigar box. Structured with mouthcoating<br />
tannins and medium acidity, a leathery texture<br />
carries through the close. Cape Classics. Best Buy.<br />
—L.B.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $12<br />
86<br />
Boekenhoutskloof 2010 The Wolftrap<br />
Syrah-Mourvèdre-Viognier (Western<br />
Cape). Bright red mixed berries are infused with a mocha<br />
streak, filling the medium weight, but juicy palate.<br />
Straightforward and enjoyable with clean fruit flavors<br />
and a short but softly spiced finish. Vineyard Brands.<br />
Best Buy. —L.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $11<br />
86<br />
Guardian Peak 2010 Frontier Red (Western<br />
Cape). Mocha notes are upfront on the<br />
nose, with supporting fruit elements of raspberry and<br />
cherry flesh. Medium weight with a touch of bitter fruitskin<br />
flavors in the mouth, and a short but clean finish.<br />
Easy and straightforward; drink now. Terlato <strong>Wine</strong>s International.<br />
—L.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $15<br />
86<br />
Leopard’s Leap 2009 Pinotage-Shiraz<br />
(Western Cape). A funky edge frames this<br />
wine, both on the nose and in the mouth, and adds character<br />
to the otherwise straightforward blackberry, boysenberry<br />
and fig-preserve core. Cured meat and sweet<br />
spice grace the palate and persist through the mediumlength<br />
close. The blend is 52% Pinotage and 48% Shiraz.<br />
Kysela Père et Fils. —L.B.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $14<br />
85<br />
Goats do Roam <strong>Wine</strong> Co. 2010 Red<br />
(Western Cape). Suggestions of soft spice<br />
and bark jazz-up the dark fruit center of this blend,<br />
made with 75% Syrah, 13% Cinsault, 7% Mourvèdre,<br />
4% Carignan and 3% Grenache. Mouthwatering black<br />
cherry and raspberry sauce flavors flood the mouth<br />
and stay through the solid finish. Drink now. Vineyard<br />
Brands. Best Buy. —L.B.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $10<br />
85<br />
Robertson <strong>Wine</strong>ry 2010 Shiraz-Mourvèdre-Viognier<br />
(Robertson). Skin-driven red<br />
fruit characteristics abound on the nose, alongside soft<br />
vanilla and purple floral accents. Cherry and mulberry<br />
38 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012<br />
flavors dominate in the lightly-structured mouth, and<br />
the wine closes with a mouthwatering freshness. Indigo<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> Group. Best Buy. —L.B.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $10<br />
85<br />
Rooiberg 2010 Roodewyn Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon-Merlot (Robertson). With 12<br />
months spent in French oak, this wine offers rounded<br />
notes of boysenberry and cassis framed by hints of purple<br />
florals and sweet spice. There’s a lively lift to the<br />
fruit in the mouth, driving the palate to a clean and juicy<br />
finish. Drink now. Worthwhile <strong>Wine</strong> Company. Best<br />
Buy. —L.B.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $10<br />
85<br />
Two Oceans 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon-<br />
Merlot (Western Cape). Soft sweet spice and<br />
black tea characters mingle with black cherry and plum<br />
flesh aromas and flavors. Medium weight and approachable,<br />
with dusty tannins and a clean, licorice-kissed finish.<br />
Drink now. Aveniù Brands, Inc. Best Buy. —L.B.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $10<br />
AUSTRALIA<br />
MOSCATO<br />
88<br />
Innocent Bystander 2011 Moscato (Victoria).<br />
Innocent Bystander has been ahead<br />
of the Moscato curve, making this wine for a number<br />
of years, and it has always been among the best from<br />
Australia. The 2011 is perfumed and spicy, with ample<br />
strawberry and cherry fruit and a soft, frothy feel in<br />
the mouth. Drink it over the next six months or so. Old<br />
Bridge Cellars. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.<br />
abv: 5.5% Price: $14<br />
86<br />
Two Hands 2011 Brilliant Disguise<br />
Moscato (Barossa Valley). A bit weightier<br />
than many Australian versions, this is a pale straw<br />
Moscato with a soft, frothy mouthfeel. It’s floral on the<br />
nose, but mainly citrusy in the mouth, finishing on lime<br />
and grapefruit notes. Drink now. Terlato <strong>Wine</strong>s International.<br />
—J.C.<br />
abv: 8% Price: $22/500 ml<br />
85<br />
Jacob’s Creek NV Sparkling Moscato<br />
(South Eastern Australia). This pale strawcolored<br />
Moscato comes across as very citrusy and<br />
clean—lemon more than Muscat’s typical orange. It’s<br />
light, frothy and sweet, with a mouthwatering finish.<br />
Pernod Ricard. —J.C.<br />
abv: 9% Price: $13<br />
85<br />
Lindemans 2010 Bin 90 Moscato (South<br />
Eastern Australia). This is a frankly sweet,<br />
dessert style of still Moscato. It’s modest in alcohol, offering<br />
up notes of oranges, melons and honey that are<br />
reasonably balanced on the finish. The price makes it a<br />
bargain. Treasury <strong>Wine</strong> Estates. Best Buy. —J.C.<br />
abv: 9% Price: $7<br />
84<br />
Zed NV Rosé Moscato (Australia). Zed is<br />
a pale flamingo in color, with plenty of hallmark<br />
Muscat aromas and flavors of orange and just a hint of<br />
berries. It is a bit heavy and rich compared to some of its<br />
competitors; try it with dessert rather than as an apéritif.<br />
Pernod Ricard. —J.C.<br />
abv: 8.5% Price: $13<br />
PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO<br />
90<br />
Zonte’s Footstep 2010 Doctoressa di<br />
Lago Single Site Pinot Grigio (Fleurieu<br />
Peninsula). Nicely rounded in texture without being<br />
flabby, this is a lively, crisp white wine, well endowed<br />
with flavors reminiscent of melon, pear and lime. Perfect<br />
to drink now with most seafood dishes, or as an<br />
apéritif. Old Bridge Cellars. Best Buy. —J.C.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $15<br />
89<br />
Hazyblur 2010 Pinot Gris (Kangaroo Island).<br />
This wine almost quivers with freshness<br />
when first sniffed, it’s so vibrant and citrusy. Then it<br />
broadens out nicely on the palate, delivering ripe melon<br />
and apple flavors and ample weight. Drink it now<br />
and over the next few months. Baum <strong>Wine</strong> Imports Inc.<br />
—J.C.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $23<br />
88<br />
Sidewood 2010 Pinot Gris (Adelaide<br />
Hills). This medium-bodied dry white is notable<br />
for its balance and harmony. Citrus, wet stone and<br />
green apple aromas and flavors all come into play, none<br />
of them dominant, then end on a bright, grapefruity<br />
note. Drink now. USA <strong>Wine</strong> West. —J.C.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $18<br />
87<br />
Robert Oatley 2010 Pinot Grigio (Adelaide<br />
Hills). This Pinot Grigio is faintly coppery<br />
in color (trendy in some circles), with slightly floral<br />
and citrus overtones. It’s modest in alcohol, but reasonably<br />
plump on the midpalate, delivering melon and<br />
apple-skin flavors before finishing crisp and refreshing.<br />
Drink now. Robert Oatley Vineyards Inc. —J.C.<br />
abv: 12.2% Price: $17<br />
85<br />
James Oatley 2010 Tic Tok Pinot Grigio<br />
(Adelaide Hills). Another faintly copper-hued<br />
Pinot Grigio from the Oatley family, this one offers<br />
modest apple, melon and citrus notes, medium body<br />
and a slightly tannic edge to the tart, lemony finish.<br />
Drink now. Robert Oatley Vineyards Inc. —J.C.<br />
abv: 12.8% Price: $14<br />
SAUVIGNON BLANC<br />
90<br />
Plantagenet 2010 Omrah Sauvignon<br />
Blanc (Great Southern). An intense, flavorful<br />
rendition of Sauvignon Blanc, this is grapefruity<br />
from start to finish, balanced by slightly riper notes of<br />
pineapple and a custardy richness to the wine’s texture.<br />
Pair it with bold fish dishes over the next 6–9 months.<br />
Old Bridge Cellars. Best Buy. —J.C.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $15<br />
88<br />
Katnook Estate 2009 Sauvignon Blanc<br />
(Coonawarra). Coonawarra’s not known for<br />
Sauvignon Blanc, but this is a very good example. It’s<br />
medium in weight and dominated by citrus, but it also<br />
sneaks in some slightly tropical nuances before ending
in a zesty, mouthwatering finish. Drink now. Victoire<br />
Imports. —J.C.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $22<br />
88<br />
Taltarni 2009 Three Monks Fumé Blanc<br />
Sauvignon Blanc (South Eastern Australia).<br />
This takes a page from California in its naming<br />
convention and style, which includes a good proportion<br />
of barrel-fermentation and oak maturation. Toast and<br />
vanilla frame melon and fig notes, and the midpalate<br />
is slightly creamy in texture before the wine turns crisp<br />
and lemony on the finish. Drink now. Clos Du Val <strong>Wine</strong>/<br />
Goelet <strong>Wine</strong> Estates. —J.C.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $20<br />
87<br />
Sidewood 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Adelaide<br />
Hills). This could be straight out of New<br />
Zealand given its styling, which features pungent notes<br />
of crushed tomato leaf and gooseberries. It’s light and<br />
refreshing, with a clean, crisp finish. USA <strong>Wine</strong> West.<br />
—J.C.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $18<br />
86<br />
D’Arenberg 2010 The Broken Fishplate<br />
Sauvignon Blanc (Adelaide Hills). The relatively<br />
cool Adelaide Hills are making a name for their<br />
Sauvignon Blanc, and this example shows a restrained,<br />
grassy bouquet and flavors of grapefruit and tangerine.<br />
It’s plump on the midpalate, then almost razor-sharp on<br />
the finish. Drink now. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $17<br />
86<br />
James Oatley 2010 Tic Tok Sauvignon<br />
Blanc (Western Australia). This is a fresh,<br />
grapefruity wine, accented by fresh cut grass and green<br />
herbs. It’s nicely proportioned and medium bodied,<br />
with a tart, slightly pithy edge to the finish. Drink now.<br />
Robert Oatley Vineyards Inc. —J.C.<br />
abv: 12.8% Price: $14<br />
85<br />
Coldstream Hills 2009 Sauvignon Blanc<br />
(Yarra Valley). Coldstream Hills is better<br />
known for its Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs than its Sauvignon<br />
Blanc, but this is a solid effort. It’s medium in<br />
body, with simple grapefruit and pineapple flavors and a<br />
crisp, clean finish. Treasury <strong>Wine</strong> Estates. —J.C.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $NA<br />
OTHER WHITE WINES<br />
87<br />
Zonte’s Footstep 2010 The Love Symbol<br />
Single Site Savignin Blanc Savagnin<br />
(Langhorne Creek). Once thought to be Albariño,<br />
this grape variety is actually native to France’s<br />
Jura. In this example from South Australia, it’s a lean,<br />
crisp white, with hints of pencil shavings that accent its<br />
grapefruity flavors. It’s pretty, harmonious and a good<br />
all-around white for drinking over the next 6–9 months.<br />
Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C.<br />
abv: 12% Price: $15<br />
85<br />
Tamburlaine 2009 <strong>Wine</strong> Lovers Sauvignon<br />
Blanc-Chardonnay (Orange). This<br />
50-50 blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay is a<br />
light-bodied, crisply focused wine. Lime and green apple<br />
notes dominate. MHW, Ltd. —J.C.<br />
abv: 13.1% Price: $15<br />
CABERNET SAUVIGNON<br />
93<br />
Wakefield Estate 2006 St. Andrews Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (Clare Valley). For full review<br />
see page 5. Cellar Selection.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $50<br />
92<br />
Peter Lehmann 2006 Mentor Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (Barossa). For full review see<br />
page 6.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $38<br />
91<br />
Penley Estate 2008 Reserve Estate<br />
Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Coonawarra).<br />
It’s slightly oversized to be truly a classic representation<br />
of Coonawarra Cabernet, but this wine still<br />
punches all the buttons, from cassis and cedar to mint<br />
and earth. It’s firmly structured, with a finish that manages<br />
to be dry, velvety and mouthwatering, all at the<br />
same time. Drink now–2020. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $50<br />
90<br />
Morambo Creek 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Padthaway). A good value in New<br />
World Cabernet, with supple, silky tannins framing cassis<br />
fruit that’s just starting to show some evolution toward<br />
cedar, leather and earth. Lingering vanilla and a<br />
burst of tart berries mark the finish. Drink now–2018.<br />
Kysela Père et Fils. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $20<br />
90<br />
Penley Estate 2009 Phoenix Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (Coonawarra). For full review<br />
see page 8. Editors’ Choice.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $20<br />
89<br />
Katnook Estate 2009 Founder’s Block<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon (Coonawarra). This<br />
is a classically styled Coonawarra Cab, with ample cassis,<br />
cedar and mint wrapped up into a balanced, wellproportioned<br />
whole. The Katnook style favors silky<br />
tannins over power, making this elegant Cabernet one<br />
to drink over the next several years. Victoire Imports.<br />
—J.C.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $20<br />
88<br />
Katnook Estate 2006 Odyssey Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (Coonawarra). Katnook’s top<br />
Cabernet is always oaky, and the 2006 is no exception,<br />
featuring plenty of brown sugar and caramel aromas.<br />
Vanilla and cedar dominate the palate, forming an attractive<br />
wooden shell over cassis fruit. Drink it now if<br />
you like that sort of full-on youthful oak, or hold it a decade<br />
until it develops a soft, rich patina of age. Victoire<br />
Imports. —J.C.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $43<br />
88<br />
Parker 2008 Coonawarra Estate Terra<br />
Rossa Cabernet Sauvignon (Coonawarra).<br />
A solid example of Coonawarra Cabernet, the 2008<br />
Terra Rossa features a charming combination of cherrycassis<br />
fruit and eucalypt with cigar box and vanilla. It’s<br />
medium to full in body, with fine balance and a long<br />
finish. Drink now–2016. Rathbone <strong>Wine</strong> Group. —J.C.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $30<br />
88<br />
Yalumba 2009 Menzies The Cigar Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (Coonawarra). There’s<br />
a bright, almost Ribena-like quality to the fruit in this<br />
wine, with underlying hints of wood and mint. It’s full<br />
bodied, but the tannins are modest and softly rounded,<br />
making it deceptively easy to down. Drink now–2018.<br />
Negociants USA, Inc. —J.C.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $25<br />
87<br />
Katnook Estate 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Coonawarra). An easy-drinking Coonwarra<br />
Cab, with regionally characteristic notes of cassis,<br />
cedar and mint. It’s medium in weight, with a finish that<br />
turns tart and tea-like. Drink now–2017. Victoire Imports.<br />
—J.C.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $35<br />
RED BLENDS<br />
92<br />
Yalumba 2004 The Reserve Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon-Shiraz (Barossa). A blend of<br />
69% Cabernet and 31% Shiraz, Yalumba’s 2004 The<br />
Reserve is still firm and dusty on the finish, suggesting<br />
at least another 2–3 years of cellaring are warranted.<br />
Cassis, caramel, earth and vanilla notes are all nicely integrated<br />
into a cohesive whole, with the result being a<br />
dark, chocolaty wine that’s savory as much as it is fruity.<br />
Negociants USA, Inc. Cellar Selection. —J.C.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $125<br />
90<br />
S.C. Pannell 2008 Pronto Red (Adelaide).<br />
Pronto red is 77% Grenache, with the remainder<br />
a blend of Touriga Nacional (11%), Syrah (7%) and<br />
Monastrell (5%). It starts off with leather and spice, then<br />
folds in cherries and licorice. It’s full-bodied, round and<br />
slightly warm, with a supple, spice-driven finish. Drink<br />
now-2015. Epicurean <strong>Wine</strong>s. —J.C.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $69<br />
89<br />
Inkberry 2009 Mountain Estate Shiraz-<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon (Central Ranges).<br />
This 60-40 blend combines Shiraz’s blackberry fruit<br />
with Cab’s slightly herbal notes to make a pretty marriage.<br />
It shows enough firmness to stand up to rich, fatty<br />
meats now, or to sustain it through up to a decade of cellaring.<br />
Lion Nathan USA, Inc. Best Buy. —J.C.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $14<br />
88<br />
Greg Norman Estates 2008 Cabernet<br />
Merlot (Limestone Coast). At only 7% Merlot,<br />
it’s unclear why it’s even mentioned on the label,<br />
especially since it seems to be so obviously Cabernet in<br />
style. Cassis and chocolate notes dominate this richly<br />
textured, full-bodied red. Drink now. Treasury <strong>Wine</strong><br />
Estates. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $15<br />
87<br />
Penley Estate 2008 Chertsey (Coonawarra).<br />
In certain vintages, this wine can be excellent,<br />
but in 2008 it’s merely good. The fruit—a blend<br />
of Cabernet Sauvignon (49%), Cabernet Franc (32%)<br />
and Merlot (19%)—comes across as slightly pruny or<br />
stewed, while the tannins remain firm and leathery. Old<br />
Bridge Cellars. —J.C.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $50<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>Mag.com | 39
GRENACHE<br />
93<br />
Clarendon Hills 2008 Romas Grenache<br />
(Clarendon). Full-bodied and lush in style,<br />
with aromas of cherries and spice. On the palate, it delivers<br />
waves of fresh fruit and hints of cocoa, but also<br />
enough complexity to hold your interest before finishing<br />
on a long, mouthwatering note. Drink now–2016. E<br />
& J Gallo. —J.C.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $75<br />
92<br />
Clarendon Hills 2008 Kangarilla Grenache<br />
(Clarendon). Depending on the vintage,<br />
any of Clarendon Hills’ Grenaches can excel. In<br />
2008, Kangarilla offers a lovely texture somewhere between<br />
fine silt and silk. Brandied cherries give an impression<br />
of warmth, balanced by herbal nuances and<br />
reined in by that fine-grained texture. Drink now–2015.<br />
E & J Gallo. —J.C.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $50<br />
91<br />
Chapel Hill 2008 Bush Vine Grenache<br />
(McLaren Vale). This ripe Grenache is fullbodied<br />
and fruit-driven, but seems to have the stuffing<br />
to last at least 3–4 years. Cherry-berry flavors are<br />
punched up by herb and spice shadings that linger on<br />
the finish. Baum <strong>Wine</strong> Imports Inc. —J.C.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $29<br />
91<br />
Clarendon Hills 2008 Blewitt Springs Grenache<br />
(Clarendon). Featuring some dusty<br />
tannins on the finish, this is fairly structured for Aussie<br />
Grenache. Dried herbs and dried cherries are balanced<br />
by hints of dusty earth on the long finish. Drink 2013–<br />
2017. E & J Gallo. —J.C.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $50<br />
SHIRAZ/SYRAH<br />
94<br />
John Duval <strong>Wine</strong>s 2008 Eligo Shiraz<br />
(Barossa). Duval used to make Grange, so it<br />
is no surprise that his current luxury Shiraz is so successful.<br />
The 2008 Eligo oozes with oaky sweetness—vanilla,<br />
maple syrup and brown sugar notes—but balances<br />
that with potent cassis fruit and somehow ends on dry,<br />
savory notes of tobacco and spice. Drink now-2018, although<br />
it could surprise and go longer. Old Bridge Cellars.<br />
—J.C.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $100<br />
93<br />
Penfolds 2008 RWT Shiraz (Barossa Valley).<br />
For full review see page 5.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $150<br />
92<br />
Grant Burge 2009 Miamba Shiraz (Barossa).<br />
This full-bodied, creamy-textured Shiraz<br />
from the Lyndoch subregion of the Barossa starts off<br />
with vanilla, raspberries and a dusting of confectioner’s<br />
sugar, but turns darker and more savory with air, adding<br />
dark berry and hickory notes. The long finish is richly<br />
textured, yet simultaneously marked by crisp acids. Wilson<br />
Daniels Ltd. —J.C.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $28<br />
92<br />
Groom 2009 Shiraz (Barossa Valley).<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>maker Daryl Groom has crafted an expansive<br />
Shiraz that’s full bodied and lushly textured but not<br />
40 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012<br />
unstructured. Flavors of blackberry and mocha weave<br />
in and out with notes of cola, chocolate and black olive<br />
on the softly lingering finish. Drink now–2018. Groom<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>s. —J.C.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $38<br />
91<br />
Chapel Hill 2008 The Vicar Shiraz (McLaren<br />
Vale). A brutish, muscular style of Shiraz,<br />
filled with intense notes of plum and tar and accented<br />
by hints of coconut and vanilla. Yet for all its concentration<br />
and richness, the finish is surprisingly elegant.<br />
Drink now–2018. Baum <strong>Wine</strong> Imports Inc. —J.C.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $65<br />
91<br />
Coriole 2008 Estate Grown Shiraz<br />
(McLaren Vale). A perfect recreational player’s<br />
drive, right down the middle of the fairway, this<br />
wine neatly splits the range of flavors between savory<br />
and fruity, blending meaty, olive notes with mixed berries<br />
and vanilla. Long and lushly textured on the finish,<br />
like velvet. Drink now–2020. The Country Vintner. Editors’<br />
Choice. —J.C.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $22<br />
91<br />
Glaetzer 2010 Bishop Shiraz (Barossa<br />
Valley). Soft and lush, this is a decadent<br />
mouthful of blackberries and plums framed by ample<br />
vanilla. It’s balanced, in its own open-knit, easy-drinking<br />
style, with a sexy, drink-me-now immediacy that some<br />
may find too obvious. Epicurean <strong>Wine</strong>s. —J.C.<br />
abv: 15.1% Price: $36<br />
91<br />
Kilikanoon 2009 Killerman’s Run Shiraz<br />
(South Australia). For full review see page 7.<br />
Editors’ Choice.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $20<br />
91<br />
Rosedale <strong>Wine</strong>s 2009 Cat Amongst the<br />
Pigeons Nine Lives Shiraz (Barossa). A<br />
superb value, this wine’s weighty presence and rich texture<br />
convey the warmth of the Barossa without ever<br />
stepping over into overripeness. Instead, it delivers<br />
mixed berry fruit, peppery spice and overtones of vanilla<br />
and chocolate. Drink now and over the next few<br />
years. Sabemos Beverages. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $20<br />
91<br />
Shingleback 2009 Shiraz (McLaren Vale).<br />
The 2009 Shirazes from South Australia have<br />
been grading out well, and Shingleback’s is no exception,<br />
representing an excellent value. It’s dense and jammy,<br />
with rich black cherry fruit framed by oaky notes of<br />
baking spices and cocoa. This intense, extracted wine<br />
can stand up to hearty braises or stews. Precept <strong>Wine</strong>s.<br />
Editors’ Choice. —J.C.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $20<br />
91<br />
Sidewood 2008 Reserve Syrah (Adelaide<br />
Hills). Interestingly, Sidewood’s 2008 Reserve<br />
Shiraz comes in considerably lower in alcohol than the<br />
regular bottling. It features a complex interplay of herb,<br />
spice and olive that gives it a stylistic resemblance resemblance<br />
to northern Rhône Syrahs. The tannins are<br />
silky, the finish long and balanced. Drink now–2018.<br />
USA <strong>Wine</strong> West. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $24<br />
91<br />
Wolf Blass 2008 Gold Label Shiraz<br />
(Barossa). An excellent value, the 2008 Gold<br />
Label Shiraz is a full-bodied, powerfully built wine,<br />
filled out by cassis, chocolate and tobacco flavors. It’s<br />
long and velvety on the finish, not just an upfront powerhouse.<br />
Drink now–2020. Treasury <strong>Wine</strong> Estates. Editors’<br />
Choice. —J.C.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $25<br />
90<br />
John Duval <strong>Wine</strong>s 2009 Entity Shiraz<br />
(Barossa). Expansive, round and supple in the<br />
mouth, this Shiraz features lush raspberry fruit, framed<br />
by vanilla oak. There’s a tart edge to the finish, providing<br />
a solid sense of balance to the lingering warm, chocolaty<br />
notes. Drink now. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $40<br />
90<br />
Mitolo 2009 Jester Shiraz (McLaren<br />
Vale). Cedar, chocolate and cherry are the<br />
main players, with hints of alfalfa adding a modicum of<br />
complexity. It’s full bodied, round and warm, with tannins<br />
that seem firmer than many in this price category,<br />
making it a good steakhouse red. Drink it now and over<br />
the next several years. Vintus LLC. —J.C.<br />
abv: 14.9% Price: $21<br />
90<br />
Oliverhill 2009 Red Silk Shiraz (McLaren<br />
Vale). This Shiraz does a nice job of balancing<br />
its fruit-sweet characters of blackberry and blueberry<br />
with savory elements of herbs and green olives. It’s fullbodied,<br />
warm and creamy-textured, with a warm, chocolaty<br />
finish. Drink it now and over the next few years.<br />
Southern Starz, Inc. —J.C.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $20<br />
90<br />
Ross Estate 2009 Lights Out Shiraz<br />
(Barossa Valley). Sure, this wine is full bodied<br />
and lush, filled with ripe raspberry fruit, but there<br />
is also a sense of underlying structure, and some lovely<br />
herb-spice complexities, like rhubarb, cedar, cinnamon,<br />
vanilla and cracked pepper. Drink it over the next 2–3<br />
years. Southern Starz, Inc. —J.C.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $20<br />
90<br />
Sidewood 2008 Syrah (Adelaide Hills). A<br />
concentrated, intense wine, filled with cherryberry<br />
fruit and more than a hint of vanilla. It’s tart and<br />
edgy, with some firm tannins on the finish, so hold it<br />
another 12 months and then drink it over the next 5–6<br />
years. USA <strong>Wine</strong> West. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $18<br />
90<br />
Thorn Clarke 2010 Shotfire Shiraz<br />
(Barossa). An excellent value, the 2010 Shotfire<br />
Shiraz offers bold, punched-up cherry-berry fruit<br />
framed by hints of vanilla, dried herbs and cracked pepper.<br />
It’s a big wine that’s reasonably creamy in texture,<br />
with plenty of mouthcoating flavor on the finish. Drink<br />
it over the next few years. Kysela Père et Fils. Editors’<br />
Choice. —J.C.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $22<br />
89<br />
Kilikanoon 2008 M Reserve Shiraz<br />
(McLaren Vale). Kilikanoon’s 2008 M features<br />
bold berry fruit, lashings of vanilla and a bit of eucalyptus<br />
on the nose, followed up by rich blackberry and<br />
vanilla flavors. It’s a full-bodied wine that nevertheless
turns crisp and edgy on the finish. Drink now–2018. Old<br />
Bridge Cellars. —J.C.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $70<br />
89<br />
Milton Park 2009 Shiraz (South Australia).<br />
This wine may lack the dramatic power<br />
of its top-flight brethren, but it still satisfies, delivering<br />
reasonably complex notes of cherries, rhubarb and olive<br />
carried by silky tannins and moderate alcohol. Drink<br />
this terrific value over the next year or two. Kysela Père<br />
et Fils. Best Buy. —J.C.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $12<br />
89<br />
Thorn Clarke 2008 William Randell Shiraz<br />
(Barossa Valley). Shows some of the<br />
warmth of the vintage in its elevated alcohol levels and<br />
high-toned fruit. It’s full-bodied and supple, with flavors<br />
of brandied plums and baking spices. Drink it over the<br />
next few years. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C.<br />
abv: 16% Price: $40<br />
89<br />
Yalumba 2010 Made with Organic Grapes<br />
Shiraz (South Australia). Not the darkest,<br />
biggest or richest Shiraz to ever come out of Australia,<br />
this is nevertheless a delightful wine. A green peppercorn<br />
note accents red raspberry and cherry fruit, with<br />
just a hint of vanilla in the background. Drink it over<br />
the next year or two. Negociants USA, Inc. Editors’<br />
Choice. —J.C.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $16<br />
88<br />
Grant Burge 2010 Shiraz (Barossa). Full<br />
bodied and meaty, with its slightly creamy texture<br />
supporting ample spice and bright berry flavors.<br />
This easy-drinking, moderately complex Barossa Shiraz<br />
is probably best consumed over the next 2–3 years. Wilson<br />
Daniels Ltd. —J.C.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $19<br />
88<br />
Hope Estate 2009 Shiraz (Hunter Valley).<br />
For full review see page 10. Best Buy.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $13<br />
88<br />
Rolling 2009 Shiraz (Central Ranges).<br />
Despite the inexpensive price tag, this is a solid<br />
Shiraz, offering ripe black cherry fruit and touches<br />
of tree bark and orris root. It’s medium-bodied, yet<br />
features a velvety texture and plenty of length on the<br />
finish. Drink now–2015. Lion Nathan USA, Inc. Best<br />
Buy. —J.C.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $10<br />
87<br />
Block 50 2009 Shiraz (Central Ranges).<br />
A supple, medium-bodied Shiraz ideal for nearterm<br />
consumption, the 2009 Block 50 Shiraz delivers<br />
clean aromas and flavors of dark fruit—black cherries<br />
and plums—and a hint of vanilla. It does turn a bit tart<br />
on the finish. Lion Nathan USA, Inc. Best Buy. —J.C.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $10<br />
87<br />
Château Tanunda 2008 Noble Baron Shiraz<br />
(Barossa). Already showing a bit of bricking,<br />
this is a full-bodied Shiraz that’s a bit coarse in texture,<br />
with aromas and flavors of plum and brown sugar.<br />
The finish matches tart, zingy fruit with sweet, molasses-tinged<br />
oak. The individual components show prom-<br />
ise, but it’s tough to say if they will all come together in<br />
time. Banfi Vintners. —J.C.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $50<br />
87<br />
Grant Burge 2010 Benchmark Shiraz<br />
(South Australia). This wine starts off a bit<br />
tarry or rubbery, but decanting allows the bright berry<br />
fruit to come forward. Raspberries are limned with<br />
hints of mint and other herbs and framed by vanilla. It’s<br />
medium-bodied, with a tangy finish and a crisp, satiny<br />
texture. Drink now. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.C.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $15<br />
86<br />
Anthropology 2009 Pure Estate Shiraz<br />
(Central Ranges). The oak treatment stands<br />
out a little in this wine, imparting a dusty, wood-smoke<br />
component as well as plenty of vanilla. The cherry fruit<br />
is otherwise nicely presented, with ample weight and a<br />
touch of creaminess to the texture. Lion Nathan USA,<br />
Inc. Best Buy. —J.C.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $11<br />
ARGENTINA<br />
CHARDONNAY<br />
89<br />
Viña Cobos 2010 Bramare Marchiori<br />
Vineyard Chardonnay (Perdriel). A big,<br />
warm style of Chard. The nose is soft, toasty and loaded<br />
with butter, baked apple and vanilla aromas. Feels full,<br />
round and creamy, while oak sits at the forefront of the<br />
flavor profile, with toast, apple and vanilla lurking behind.<br />
Finishes sweet and smooth. 400 cases made. Paul<br />
Hobbs <strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $35<br />
87<br />
Alamos 2010 Chardonnay (Mendoza).<br />
Fruity on the nose, with a friendly mix of pineapple,<br />
apple, melon and powdered sugar aromas. Feels<br />
smooth and round but not heavy, with good acidity<br />
and likable, simple flavors of melon, banana and apple.<br />
There’s a light note of toast on the finish. E & J Gallo.<br />
—M.S.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $13<br />
87<br />
Viña Cobos 2010 Felino Chardonnay<br />
(Perdriel). Light oak aromas blend nicely<br />
with white flower scents and peach notes. The palate<br />
is round, smooth and honest, with plump flavors of vanilla,<br />
pear and melon. Oaky on the finish, then dry and<br />
toasty. Nice for a warm-weather Chard. Paul Hobbs<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $19<br />
86<br />
Salvatore Principe 2011 Family Chardonnay<br />
(Mendoza). Peach and apple aromas<br />
come with a dose of minerality and a kiss of oak. Feels<br />
juicy and fruity, with citric acids pushing bright peach,<br />
nectarine and apple flavors. Cleansing on the finish,<br />
with mild bitterness. Prestige <strong>Wine</strong> Group. Best Buy.<br />
—M.S.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $10<br />
86<br />
San Felipe 2010 Oak Cask Chardonnay<br />
(Mendoza). For full review see page 11. Best<br />
Buy.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $10<br />
85<br />
Fabre Montmayou 2010 Phebus Reserva<br />
Chardonnay (Mendoza). Oddly perfumed<br />
and flowery smelling, with peach and orange notes.<br />
Feels jumpy and unfocused, with sweet, almost candied<br />
flavors of melon and pineapple. Creamy oak rises up on<br />
the finish, where it matches up against stone fruit flavors.<br />
W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $17<br />
84<br />
Portillo 2011 Estate Bottled Chardonnay<br />
(Uco Valley). White peach and papaya aromas<br />
are sweet and tropical, while saline notes play second<br />
fiddle. Feels tangy, juicy and lean, with dilute lemon<br />
and green banana flavors. Wet and watery on the finish.<br />
Palm Bay International. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $10<br />
84<br />
Terrazas de Los Andes 2010 Altos del<br />
Plata Chardonnay (Mendoza). Chunky<br />
and murky on the nose, with melon and papaya aromas.<br />
Feels round but light in the center, with vanilla,<br />
pear and melon flavors. Fleshy and simple on the finish.<br />
Moët Hennessy USA. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $12<br />
83<br />
Amadores 2010 Chardonnay (Mendoza).<br />
Stalky aromas of burnt hay blend with white<br />
fruit scents. Bland apple and stalky flavors are balanced<br />
by decent acidity, then finishes with burnt, oily accents.<br />
Mistica <strong>Wine</strong>s LLC. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13.8% Price: $13<br />
83<br />
Tierra de Antes 2010 Chardonnay (Mendoza).<br />
Mild lemon and minerally aromas are<br />
about as expressive as it gets, although you get some apple<br />
and melon flavors. Finishes with more apple flavor,<br />
a fleshy feel and not much follow through. Broadbent<br />
Selections, Inc. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $10<br />
MOSCATO<br />
85<br />
Casa de Campo 2011 Moscato (Mendoza).<br />
Peach, scented candle wax and matchstick<br />
make for a solid bouquet. Feels good, maybe a touch<br />
cloying, but not too much. Flavors of crystallized mango<br />
and pineapple mix with fresh melon, and the finish is<br />
clean. About all you could hope for from an $8 Argentine<br />
Moscato. Indigo <strong>Wine</strong> Group. Best Buy. —M.S.<br />
abv: 10.5% Price: $8<br />
83<br />
Árido 2011 Sustainably Farmed Moscato<br />
(Mendoza). Foamy in the Asti style, with metallic,<br />
earthy aromas of peach and lychee. Feels pretty<br />
good, with sweet, basic lychee and honeydew flavors.<br />
The finish is simply a carry over from the palate: it’s<br />
sweet and melony in flavor. San Francisco <strong>Wine</strong> Exchange.<br />
—M.S.<br />
abv: 7.6% Price: $10<br />
82<br />
Conquista 2011 Moscato (Mendoza).<br />
Neutral smelling except for pithy white fruit<br />
aromas. Feels sticky but not cloying, with lychee flavors<br />
that turn bitter towards the end. Short on the finish,<br />
with little activity or lasting flavor. Prestige <strong>Wine</strong><br />
Group. —M.S.<br />
abv: 10.5% Price: $9<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>Mag.com | 41
TORRONTÉS<br />
88<br />
Recuerdo 2011 Torrontés (La Rioja). Vanilla<br />
cookies, peach and nectarine aromas work<br />
the opening. In the mouth, there’s a nice and even flow<br />
of acidity and pulpy tropical fruits. Flavors of tangerine,<br />
melon and lychee are authentic and well balanced,<br />
while the finish is musky, fresh and confirms the wine’s<br />
high quality. Blackbird Vineyards. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $15<br />
87<br />
Colomé 2011 Torrontés (Calchaqui Valley).<br />
Perfectly good, but seemingly more simple<br />
and oily than in the past. Maybe that’s just perception,<br />
but the perception is that this is a mild, tropically<br />
influenced wine with a fleshy body and mild aromas and<br />
flavors of lychee, green melon and lime. Finishes short<br />
and pithy. Hess Collection. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $15<br />
85<br />
Caligiore 2011 Grazioso Made with Organically<br />
Grown Grapes Torrontés (Mendoza).<br />
Mild and powdery smelling, with inviting tropical<br />
undertones. The palate mixes flesh with freshness,<br />
and the flavors of lychee, green melon and white pepper<br />
are straight from the textbook. Finishes mildly bitter,<br />
which is natural for Mendoza Torrontés. Marquee Selections.<br />
Best Buy. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $10<br />
85<br />
Fabre Montmayou 2011 Phebus Torrontés<br />
(Mendoza). Stalky and strained on the<br />
nose, with a burnt-hay aroma to go with more typical<br />
tropical fruit and lychee scents. Citrusy and basic, with<br />
oily flavors of peach and apple. Chunky on the back end,<br />
with heat on the finish W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $12<br />
84<br />
Espuela del Gaucho 2011 Gaucho Spur<br />
Torrontés (Mendoza). Typically fragrant,<br />
with floral aromas vying with mildly green notes of<br />
lime and lychee. Feels tangy and downright citric, with<br />
lemon, orange, lime and green apple flavors. Cleansing<br />
and acidic on the finish, with lemony snap. <strong>Wine</strong>ry Exchange.<br />
—M.S.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $13<br />
WHITE BLENDS<br />
86<br />
Alfredo Roca 2011 Roca Chenin Blanc-<br />
Chardonnay (San Rafael). Basic apple and<br />
straw aromas are not that intense but are, at the very<br />
least, open and clean. Feels easygoing and nice, with<br />
acidity giving it a lift. Tastes dry, with white pepper dust<br />
mixed with tropical fruit flavors. Turns more stalky and<br />
waxy on the finish. Hand Picked Selections. Best Buy.<br />
—M.S.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $11<br />
85<br />
Aconga 2011 Chenin Blanc-Chardonnay<br />
(Mendoza). Floral and citrusy smelling, with<br />
a lightness of being. Feels equally lean and light in the<br />
mouth, with fresh, floral flavors revolving around lychee<br />
and lime. Tropical and basic on the finish, with an<br />
easygoing way about it. <strong>Wine</strong>ry Exchange. Best Buy.<br />
—M.S.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $9<br />
42 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012<br />
SPARKLING WINES<br />
85<br />
Hom NV Extra Brut (Mendoza). A little<br />
sweet on the nose, with powdered sugar, vanilla<br />
and white fruit aromas. Feels foamy but just fresh<br />
enough, with apple, melon and controlled stalky flavors.<br />
Finishes with dry apple notes. Good for Argentine sparkling;<br />
70% Chardonnay and 30% Chenin Blanc. Mistica<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>s LLC. —M.S.<br />
abv: 12.3% Price: $15<br />
84<br />
Coiron 2011 Extra Brut Chardonnay<br />
(Mendoza). Smells clean and mild, with peach<br />
and apple aromas. Rather foamy and rough feeling, with<br />
tangy flavors of stone fruits, green apple and pineapple.<br />
Light, juicy and fruity on the finish, but basic. Made<br />
from 100% Chardonnay using the Charmat method.<br />
Mistica <strong>Wine</strong>s LLC. —M.S.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $13<br />
80<br />
Hom NV Rosé Malbec (Mendoza). Oxidized<br />
aromas are not inviting. After the doughy,<br />
yeasty opening, the palate deals oxidized flavors of bitter<br />
and sweet red plum. Bitter on the finish; barely worth a<br />
look. Mistica <strong>Wine</strong>s LLC. —M.S.<br />
abv: 12.6% Price: $17<br />
ROSÉS<br />
86<br />
Pulenta Estate 2011 La Flor Malbec Rosé<br />
(Mendoza). Fresh and a little confected-smelling,<br />
then more citrusy and snappy in the mouth, with<br />
pink grapefruit and citrusy flavors that make your lips<br />
pucker and your palate come alive. Crisp, zesty and well<br />
done for Argentine rosé. Paul Hobbs <strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $14<br />
82<br />
Zorzal 2010 Malbec Rosé (Tupungato).<br />
Pasty and powdery smelling, with a flat, dullfeeling<br />
palate. Tastes sweet, fleshy and candied in<br />
front of a sugary finish with cotton candy flavors. Too<br />
sweet and simple to be taken more seriously. Delectatio<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $15<br />
80<br />
Piattelli 2010 Premium Rosé of Malbec<br />
(Luján de Cuyo). Cloudy to the eye, with<br />
strained aromas of sauerkraut and barnyard animal.<br />
Feels heavy and tastes rustic, with burnt, stalky, anonymous<br />
flavors. Shows bitterness and stalky flavors on the<br />
finish. Vinocopia. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $16<br />
CABERNET SAUVIGNON<br />
88<br />
Santa Julia 2011 + Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Mendoza). For full review see page 11. Best<br />
Buy.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $10<br />
88<br />
Viña Cobos 2010 Felino Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Mendoza). Sweet oak on the nose<br />
results in creamy, chocolaty aromas, along with herbal<br />
notes, plum and berry. Feels tight but expansive, with<br />
solid tannins, bright acids and solid flavors of herbs, ber-<br />
ry fruit, cassis, toast and chocolate. Keeps it together on<br />
the finish. Paul Hobbs <strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $20<br />
87<br />
Finca Decero 2009 Remolinos Vineyard<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon (Agrelo). Standard<br />
cherry and plum aromas create a straightforward bouquet.<br />
The feel is hot and choppy, but there’s enough<br />
body and balance for it to weigh in properly. Tastes of<br />
sweet cassis, kirsch and creamy chocolate, with an oaky<br />
finish containing cocoa notes. Vintus LLC. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $22<br />
87<br />
Lamadrid 2010 Single Vineyard Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (Agrelo). Bright berry aromas<br />
are comported and good. Feels driving and forward,<br />
because of its bold acidity and choppy tannins,<br />
but tastes nice and dark, with blackberry and cassis flavors.<br />
There’s a controlled burn to the finish, and overall<br />
the wine seems healthy. Vino Del Sol. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13.7% Price: $18<br />
87<br />
Riglos 2009 Gran Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Tupungato). Fiery smelling at first, with aromas<br />
of mint, raw oak, coconut and baked berry fruits.<br />
Feels rich almost to the point of syrupy, with spicy, lightly<br />
green flavors infiltrating the core of cassis and berry.<br />
Finishes herbal and stalky, with a lingering green flavor.<br />
Paul Hobbs <strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14.7% Price: $32<br />
87<br />
Santa Julia 2011 Organica Made With Organic<br />
Grapes Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza).<br />
Pure and inviting, with a touch of char and minerality<br />
to go with basic plum and berry aromas. Feels<br />
good and grabby, with flavors of sweet blackberry, cassis,<br />
butter and molasses. Creamy, jammy and uncomplicated<br />
on the finish. <strong>Wine</strong>sellers Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $11<br />
86<br />
Benegas 2009 Libertad Vineyards Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (Mendoza). Heavy and<br />
brooding, which makes sense seeing that it weighs in at<br />
15% abv. So while it’s not exactly ringing with freshness<br />
and agility, it scores points for its full-bodied black plum<br />
and blackberry flavors, and the oak is well applied. A bit<br />
warm and baked, but still good. Vias Imports. —M.S.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $14<br />
86<br />
Maipe 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza).<br />
A little fiery and forced on the nose, but<br />
its wild berry and charred aromas it’s solid. Feels full<br />
and stacked, with plum, cassis, pepper and a mild green<br />
element. Smooth in feel on the finish, but herbal tasting.<br />
Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $13<br />
85<br />
Tango Reàl 2008 Gran Reserva Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (San Rafael). It opens with<br />
raisin and stewed aromas, so its freshness is questionable.<br />
In the mouth, it’s actually round, subtle and fairly<br />
well structured, with oaky vanilla accenting lightly herbal<br />
berry and cassis flavors. Herbal as well on the finish,<br />
with a lasting flavor of coffee. Tango LLC. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $25<br />
85<br />
Tapiz 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza).<br />
Opens with a pinch of green as well
as more standard cassis and berry aromas. Borderline<br />
sheer in the mouth, with pointed acidity and raspberry<br />
and plum flavors. Feels slightly abrasive, but on the plus<br />
side it’s fresh and juicy. Vino Del Sol. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13.8% Price: $15<br />
84<br />
Graffigna 2008 Grand Reserve Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (San Juan). Every kind of pepper,<br />
from green to red to jalapeño, is present on the<br />
nose, along with red plum and spice aromas. Feels tight<br />
and zesty, with Italian-leaning flavors of tomato, oregano<br />
and basil along with cassis and strawberry. Crisp<br />
and agile on the finish, but tastes green. Pernod Ricard.<br />
—M.S.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $20<br />
84<br />
Lexicon 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza).<br />
Opens with an odd whiff of masa or<br />
cornmeal along with herbal berry aromas. Feels angular<br />
and narrowing, with herbal plum and dark berry flavors.<br />
Turns greener with time, ultimately finishing with<br />
brown sugar sweetness and green pepper notes. Good<br />
but herbal. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $13<br />
84<br />
Sur de los Andes 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Mendoza). Roasted red berry and<br />
plum aromas carry the bouquet to a tannic, grabby palate<br />
with red fruit flavors and herbal shadings. Feels better<br />
on the finish, with tangy red fruit and nothing offensive.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>ry Direct. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $12<br />
83<br />
Arge & Tina 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(San Juan). Tomato and herbal aromas tell<br />
you most of what you need to know about this bargainpriced<br />
Cab. It’s somewhat green and sweet, with a raw<br />
feel and tannic bite. Tastes of tomato and herbal red<br />
plum. Feels light on the finish. IBESC <strong>Wine</strong> Distributor.<br />
—M.S.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $8<br />
83<br />
Benegas 2008 Luna Benegas Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (Mendoza). Citric smelling, with<br />
clipped aromas of berry fruits. Choppy tannins, heat<br />
and raisiny, sweet, cooked berry flavors and stemmy<br />
notes finish herbal tasting but full in feel. Vias Imports.<br />
—M.S.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $12<br />
83<br />
Familia Marguery 2010 Casa Marguery<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Murky<br />
smelling, with nondescript berry aromas. Ultratannic<br />
and hard in the mouth, much like chewing nails. Meanwhile,<br />
the flavors run herbal and earthy, with dark fruit<br />
carrying things to a hard, tannic finish. Southern <strong>Wine</strong><br />
Group. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $15<br />
83<br />
Michel Torino 2010 Don David Reserve<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon (Calchaqui Valley).<br />
Cloudy to the eye, with overly green aromas of tomato<br />
and bell pepper, along with spice and dried cherry.<br />
Feels hot and acidic, with a clipped, cutting palate full<br />
of berry flavors, herbs and green pepper. Fresh but<br />
herbal on the finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd.<br />
—M.S.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $16<br />
83<br />
Tomero 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza).<br />
Burnt and leafy on the nose, with murky,<br />
earthy aromas. Feels gritty but lively, with sweet, herbal<br />
berry fruit in front of a somewhat dilute and dull finish.<br />
A modest, herbal Cab that does the job. San Francisco<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> Exchange. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14.8% Price: $15<br />
82<br />
Andeluna 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Tupungato).<br />
Green smelling. Feels thick, grabby<br />
and stewed, with herbal, saucy flavors of tomato and red<br />
berry. That same sauciness defines the herbal finish. San<br />
Francisco <strong>Wine</strong> Exchange. —M.S.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $11<br />
82<br />
Mil Piedras 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Mendoza). Smells like wet clay with an accent<br />
of floral black fruit. In the mouth, it’s edgy and<br />
sharp, with rock-hard tannins that clamp down. Tastes<br />
lactic but not creamy, with sharp red-fruit flavors and a<br />
hard finish. Cannon <strong>Wine</strong>s Limited. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $11<br />
MALBEC<br />
92<br />
Viña Cobos 2009 Cobos Marchiori Vineyard<br />
Malbec (Perdriel). Hot and fiery at first,<br />
but then it tames itself while revealing jammy blackberry<br />
and roasted plum aromas. Feels extracted and full,<br />
with a mix of baked berry, herb and peppery flavors that<br />
run deep and delicious. Spicy and chocolaty on the oaky<br />
finish, with smooth tannins, sweetness and oaky length.<br />
Drink now through 2014. Paul Hobbs <strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14.8% Price: $175<br />
91<br />
Viña Cobos 2009 Bramare Marchiori<br />
Vineyard Malbec (Perdriel). Similar in style<br />
to the higher-priced Cobos wine from the same vineyard.<br />
Bramare delivers cassis, plum and berry aromas<br />
rolled into a pleasant and familiar whole. Feels rich but<br />
refined, with meaty flavors that hit on leather, berry,<br />
black plum and chocolate. Spicy and chocolaty on the<br />
finish. Drink now through 2014. Paul Hobbs <strong>Wine</strong>s.<br />
—M.S.<br />
abv: 14.7% Price: $80<br />
90<br />
Finca Flichman 2008 Parcela 26 Limited<br />
Edition Malbec (Mendoza). After picking<br />
yourself up off the floor having digested the price,<br />
the wine is excellent but not otherwordly. Sweet, dense<br />
and calm on the nose, with alluring black fruit and raisin<br />
aromas. Feels hefty and gritty, with rooty, sweet flavors<br />
of brown sugar and baked blackberry. Finishes round,<br />
big and smooth, with generally good balance. 120 cases<br />
made; drink now through 2014. Evaton, Inc. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $167<br />
90<br />
Salentein 2010 Reserve Malbec (Uco Valley).<br />
For full review see page 8.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $19<br />
90<br />
Tapiz 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). For full review<br />
see page 10. Best Buy.<br />
abv: 13.8% Price: $15<br />
89<br />
Angulo Innocenti 2010 Malbec (Mendoza).<br />
Deep purple in color, with a dense, compact<br />
bouquet showing ripe blackberry, density and heat.<br />
Full-force on the palate, with drying tannins along with<br />
prune, blackberry, licorice and peppery flavors. Serious<br />
and tannic, with richness, extract and power. Vineyard<br />
Brands. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $20<br />
89<br />
Maipe 2010 Reserve Malbec (Mendoza).<br />
Dense and dark, with plum, prune, blackberry<br />
and earth aromas. Feels thick, meaty and composed,<br />
with blackberry and dark plum flavors leading the<br />
charge. Density and balance are the wine’s attributes;<br />
it’s full, mildly tannic and generous but not overdone or<br />
overoaked. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $16<br />
89<br />
Viña Cobos 2009 Bramare Rebon Vineyard<br />
Malbec (Perdriel). Packed and concentrated,<br />
with blueberry, blackberry, bramble and pastry<br />
aromas. Initially, it’s jumbled and out of joint, with<br />
jumpy acids and heavy flavors of blackberry, grilled<br />
meat and herbs, while on the finish, the fruit fades<br />
quickly, leaving weight, resin and vanilla. Paul Hobbs<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14.8% Price: $55<br />
89<br />
Zuccardi 2010 Q Malbec (Mendoza).<br />
Opens with cassis, black cherry, blackberry and<br />
dusty aromas that suggest leather. Feels healthy, with<br />
blazing acidity propelling dark fruit, toast and vanilla<br />
flavors. Juicy on the finish due to semisharp acids, with<br />
length and liveliness. <strong>Wine</strong>sellers Ltd. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $22<br />
88<br />
Altocedro 2010 Reserva Malbec (La Consulta).<br />
Oak is front and center on the bouquet,<br />
and with that come accents of dried cheese and sawdust.<br />
Feels saturated, layered and tannic in the mouth, with<br />
roasted berry, black plum, herb and spice flavors. Feels<br />
and tastes a touch resiny on the finish, more evidence of<br />
the wine’s barrel influence. Vino Del Sol. —M.S.<br />
abv: 15.5% Price: $29<br />
88<br />
Altocedro 2009 Gran Reserva Malbec (La<br />
Consulta). A very oaky style of Malbec. The<br />
bouquet is full of cough drop, milk chocolate and mint,<br />
while the palate feels solid and beefy, but resiny. Flavors<br />
of berry fruits are softened and sweetened by oak and<br />
chocolate, while the finish is woody and tannic. Vino<br />
Del Sol. —M.S.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $50<br />
88<br />
Lamadrid 2009 Single Vineyard Reserva<br />
Malbec (Agrelo). Opens with hard-baked<br />
berry aromas that turn briary and herbal with airing.<br />
Smooth tannins and meaty blackberry flavors are<br />
matched by barrel-driven vanilla and spice. Oaky and<br />
minty on the finish, with spunk and length. Vino Del<br />
Sol. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $19<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>Mag.com | 43
88<br />
Lexicon 2011 Malbec (Mendoza). Jammy<br />
and generous smelling, with pastry and solid<br />
black-fruit aromas. Feels good and balanced for a<br />
young Malbec, with flavors of sweet plum, blackberry<br />
and a medicinal character. Plump and fruity on the finish,<br />
and steady wire to wire. Kysela Père et Fils. Best<br />
Buy. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $13<br />
88<br />
Mi Terruño 2008 Mayacaba Malbec<br />
(Mendoza). A big, dark, extracted Malbec<br />
with murky lead aromas of Graham cracker and sweet<br />
blueberry. The palate is jammy and chunky, with dark,<br />
earthy flavors of prune, blackberry and raisin. Finishes a<br />
bit pruny, but there’s enough acidity to maintain a sense<br />
of balance. Drink now. Copa Fina Imports CA. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $50<br />
88<br />
Nice 2008 Malbec (Mendoza). Floral red<br />
fruit aromas carry a hint of minerality and garrigue.<br />
The palate is lively, with good overall balance.<br />
Tastes of ripe red plum, raspberry and vanilla, while the<br />
finish is light in weight and quick, but satisfying. Nice<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>ry. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $30<br />
88<br />
Nuna 2010 Reserve Malbec (Mendoza).<br />
Bright, vivid and sizzling on the nose, then zesty,<br />
tight and acidic in the mouth, with high-toned plum,<br />
berry and red currant flavors offset by a touch of milk<br />
chocolate. Long on the finish, but not that nuanced or<br />
complex. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $17<br />
88<br />
Septima 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Warm,<br />
slightly leathery and earthy on the nose, with a<br />
hint of cheese. Feels full, nice and solid, with decent<br />
depth. Flavors of black fruits and pastry are friendly,<br />
while the finish is pleasant. Delivers all it can for the<br />
price. Aveniù Brands, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $11<br />
88<br />
Solsticio 2008 Malbec (Mendoza). A big<br />
wine that handles its 15.3% abv. Smells of pastry,<br />
earth and soft berry fruit. Feels round but reticent,<br />
with no fire or heat but plenty of blackberry, molasses<br />
and coffee. Mellow, toasty and blackened on the finish,<br />
with an earthy feel and a baked aftertaste. Solsticio<br />
LLC. —M.S.<br />
abv: 15.3% Price: $15<br />
88<br />
Tango Reàl 2008 Gran Reserva Malbec<br />
(San Rafael). Plum and berry aromas are<br />
straightforward, but also clean and nice. The palate on<br />
this wine from San Rafael is focused and orderly, with<br />
flavors of red fruits, spice and mild woody notes. Long<br />
lasting on the finish, with freshness and just a modicum<br />
of tannic bite. Tango LLC. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $25<br />
88<br />
Viña Cobos 2010 Felino Malbec (Mendoza).<br />
Fiery, foxy and leathery on the bouquet,<br />
with a hint of latex in addition to ripe blackberry<br />
aromas. Feels round and fresh, with a complete mix of<br />
plum, berry and currant flavors. Finishes tight and legit,<br />
with good length and feel. Paul Hobbs <strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $20<br />
44 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012<br />
87<br />
Altocedro 2011 Año Cero Malbec (La<br />
Consulta). Concentrated aromas of blackberry<br />
come with leather and dried-cheese scents. The palate<br />
is full in depth and solid in feel, with flavors of creamy<br />
oak, medicinality and blackberry. Feels rich, grabby and<br />
tastes resiny on the finish, but there’s enough solid black<br />
fruit to override the oak. Vino Del Sol. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14.7% Price: $19<br />
87<br />
Arge & Tina 2009 Malbec (San Juan).<br />
Honest plum and berry aromas get it going,<br />
followed by a fresh, comfortable palate with raspberry<br />
and plum flavors and nonpushy tannins. Feels entirely<br />
clean, with a pleasant red-fruit aftertaste. Everyday<br />
Malbec that gets it right. IBESC <strong>Wine</strong> Distributor. Best<br />
Buy. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $8<br />
87<br />
Colomé 2008 Reserva Malbec (Calchaqui<br />
Valley). Smells cheesy and leathery, with<br />
herbal notes. Feels condensed and flat, as if it’s collapsing<br />
on itself. Flavors of baked berry and prune are dark<br />
and typical of very ripe Malbec, while the finish is warm<br />
but basic in feel and flavor. Bullish, sweet and heavy.<br />
Not Colomé’s best effort, especially given the price.<br />
Hess Collection. —M.S.<br />
abv: 15.9% Price: $90<br />
87<br />
Finca Sophenia 2010 Altosur Malbec<br />
(Tupungato). Fresh, clean and pure, with<br />
standard dark berry aromas. Feels round, creamy and<br />
chewy, while the flavors tend towards black fruits and no<br />
shortage of oak. Tastes toasty and feels resiny on the finish,<br />
with vanilla and berry syrup filling up the aftertaste.<br />
The Country Vintner. Best Buy. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $12<br />
87<br />
Finca Sophenia 2010 Reserve Malbec<br />
(Tupungato). Forceful from the opening,<br />
with floral notes, dark oak, shoe polish and char vying<br />
with black fruit aromas. Feels both lush and tough, with<br />
hard tannins poking through. Tastes of black fruits, cola<br />
and heavily toasted oak. Bittersweet on the finish; lusty<br />
and black but neither elegant nor light on its feet. The<br />
Country Vintner. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $18<br />
87<br />
Lamadrid 2010 Single Vineyard Malbec<br />
(Agrelo). Dense and inky on the bouquet, with<br />
blueberry as the core fruit aroma and some grass or alfalfa<br />
around the edges. Feels blocky and tannic, with<br />
sweet, roasted flavors of black fruits that come with a<br />
peppery aftertaste. Full on the finish, with coconut and<br />
oaky accents. Vino Del Sol. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $18<br />
87<br />
Maipe 2011 Andean Culture Malbec<br />
(Mendoza). Opens with berry fruit aromas,<br />
density and slightly medicinal notes. Feels bright and<br />
lively, with ample acidity pushing toasty, lightly herbal<br />
flavors of blackberry and plum. Shows mild spice, licorice<br />
and barrel notes on the finish, along with herbal<br />
notes. Seems like a very good everyday or value-driven<br />
choice. Kysela Père et Fils. Best Buy. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $13<br />
87<br />
Nomade 2008 Malbec (Mendoza). Dry<br />
and unusual smelling, with baking spice, cinnamon<br />
and exotic notes. Not your normal black-fruited<br />
bruiser; this wine spreads out in the mouth, with sweet<br />
flavors of nutmeg along with dry plum and berry fruit.<br />
Lively and warm on the finish, with zest and an herbal<br />
element. Domaine Select <strong>Wine</strong> Estates. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14.2% Price: $18<br />
87<br />
Terrazas de Los Andes 2009 Reserva<br />
Malbec (Mendoza). Black fruit aromas feature<br />
a touch of licorice. Feels lively and alert, with edgy<br />
acids and juicy, forward flavors of plum and wild berry.<br />
Toasty, integrated and spicy on the finish, with pinches<br />
of green and black pepper. Moët Hennessy USA.<br />
—M.S.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $18<br />
86<br />
Alberti 154 2010 Malbec (Mendoza).<br />
Black fruit aromas and rubber on the nose.<br />
Feels good in the mouth, with proper weight and balance.<br />
Tastes ripe and fairly sweet; blackberry and dark<br />
plum flavors turn peppery with time. Easy to drink Malbec.<br />
Southern <strong>Wine</strong> Group. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $13<br />
86<br />
Bodega Poesia 2010 Malbec (Mendoza).<br />
Earthy and leathery on the bouquet, with a<br />
cooked, charred element. Feels drawing but solid, with<br />
choppy tannins and flavors of baked berries, herbs and<br />
charred oak. Finishes warm and meaty, with an herbal<br />
note. Bob Bofman Selections. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $15<br />
86<br />
Familia Cassone 2010 La Florencia Malbec<br />
(Luján de Cuyo). Char and hickory override<br />
fruit on the bouquet, while the palate is full, round<br />
and falls into form with time in the glass. Tastes of forward<br />
oak and spice along with berry and plum fruit.<br />
Toasty and warm on the finish, but oaky and resiny. Bedford<br />
International. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $12<br />
86<br />
Pampano 2009 Malbec (Mendoza). Fruity<br />
and friendly on the nose, with composure and<br />
solid aromas. Feels both plump and dry, with toasty<br />
black-fruit flavors accented by peppery spice that turns<br />
slightly bitter on the finish. Good and dark overall, with<br />
limited follow-through on the finish. Five Gold Hands.<br />
Best Buy. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $10<br />
86<br />
Rio Perdido 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Exotic<br />
and unusual for value-priced Malbec, with<br />
aromas of blueberry and Middle Eastern spice. Feels<br />
chunky yet juicy, with good acidity highlighting lightly<br />
herbal flavors of plum and tomato. Meaty, round and<br />
solid on the finish, with saucy spiciness. Southern Starz,<br />
Inc. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $12<br />
86<br />
Ruca Malen 2009 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza).<br />
Smells sort of furry and earthy initially,<br />
with notes of graphite and woodspice. Feels narrow and<br />
grabby, with pointed acididty framing red plum, cher-
y and lightly oaky, minty flavors. Fits the definition of<br />
good but regular Malbec. Opici <strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $18<br />
86<br />
Salentein 2010 Killka Collection Malbec<br />
(Uco Valley). On the nose, there’s an early<br />
whiff of nail polish that resolves itself in jammy black<br />
fruit aromas. Good on the palate, with just enough acidic<br />
grab in front of a full blast of berry flavors and an aftershock<br />
of chocolate. Finishes grapy. Palm Bay International.<br />
—M.S.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $15<br />
86<br />
Sur de los Andes 2009 Reserva Malbec<br />
(Mendoza). Opens with aromas of black cherry<br />
and waves of resiny oak. Has good body and grabby<br />
barrel tannins along with a palate that deals dark berry<br />
flavor and even more oakiness. Tastes resiny and saucy<br />
on the finish; cleans up as it airs. <strong>Wine</strong>ry Direct. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14.4% Price: $15<br />
86<br />
Zolo 2008 Reserve Malbec (Mendoza).<br />
Inky and superconcentrated on the bouquet,<br />
with grapey fruit notes and density to spare. Feels grabby<br />
and angular, with some astringency to the tannins<br />
and huge flavors of black plum, blackberry and iodine.<br />
Thick and sticky on the finish; ripe to the max. Vino Del<br />
Sol. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $20<br />
85<br />
Casa de Campo 2011 Malbec (Mendoza).<br />
Stalky smelling at first but good on the nose<br />
thanks to a solid berry core and leathery accents. Feels<br />
fresh and pinched, with medicinal flavors matched by<br />
equal amounts of red fruit and oak. Finishes clean but<br />
short, with decent weight. Indigo <strong>Wine</strong> Group. Best<br />
Buy. —M.S.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $8<br />
85<br />
Cueva de las Manos 2010 Reserve Malbec<br />
(Mendoza). Granular and punchy upfront,<br />
with heat and animal fur aromas on the nose. Settles<br />
with airing, revealing a heavy but solid palate with<br />
plenty of oak and candied red-fruit flavors. Falls off on<br />
the finish, with mint, resin and herbal notes. Kysela<br />
Père et Fils. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $15<br />
85<br />
Doña Silvina 2008 Malbec (Mendoza).<br />
Jammy and dusty smelling, with black fruit<br />
notes, a touch of plastic and mild scratchiness. Feels<br />
tight and grating, with red-fruit flavors that are snappy<br />
and tempered by sweet oak notes. Finishes scratchy and<br />
tannic, with berry, pepper and licorice flavors. Mistica<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>s LLC. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $25<br />
85<br />
Espuela del Gaucho 2010 Limited Edition<br />
Reserve Malbec (Mendoza). Slightly herbal<br />
plum and berry aromas come with a pinch of spice and<br />
meatiness. Feels medium-bodied and crisp, with juicy<br />
red-fruit flavors of plum, tomato and raspberry. Dries<br />
out on the finish, where it becomes more herbal and<br />
roasted. <strong>Wine</strong>ry Exchange. Best Buy. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $10<br />
85<br />
Tamarí 2010 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza).<br />
Crusty, rubbery aromas smell a bit burnt, while<br />
leather and berry aromas, rest below the surface. The<br />
palate is full, edgy and a little tangy, with red plum, herb<br />
and tomato flavors. Mild and saucy tasting on the finish.<br />
Terlato <strong>Wine</strong>s International. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $13<br />
85<br />
Tierra Prometida 2008 Clasico Malbec<br />
(Mendoza). Opens with minerally, almost metallic<br />
aromas, along with rubber and berry mixed in.<br />
Feels fresh and ready, with plum, berry and chocolaty<br />
flavors. Finishes with a smooth feel, but maybe it could<br />
use a bit more cut and tannic structure. A wine that falls<br />
squarely in the middle zone. Frontier <strong>Wine</strong> Imports.<br />
—M.S.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $18<br />
84<br />
Cas’Almare 2009 Malbec (Mendoza).<br />
Minty on the nose, with hints of cured meat,<br />
burnt field and spice. Feels fresh, with medicinal plum<br />
flavors and oak taking over after the fruit falls off. Finishes<br />
lightly spicy and drying. More balanced and less<br />
oaky than the winery’s ’09 reserva. Cas’Almare <strong>Wine</strong>s.<br />
—M.S.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $15<br />
84<br />
TintoNegro 2010 Co-Ferment Malbec<br />
(Mendoza). Rubbery on first take, with sweet<br />
chocolate and carob aromas. Feels pretty thick, with a<br />
creamy lead into an herbal-tasting palate that’s crowded<br />
with oak and milk chocolate flavors. Turns resiny on the<br />
finish. Vineyard Brands. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $20<br />
84<br />
TintoNegro 2010 Uco Valley Reserve<br />
Malbec (Mendoza). Foxy and jumpy on the<br />
nose, with candied red-berry and cherry aromas. Feels<br />
resiny, but there’s enough acid to keep it moving forward.<br />
Flavors of plum and berry come with a lot of oak<br />
and barrel influence. Finishes resiny, with hints of vanilla<br />
and a burnt quality. Vineyard Brands. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $17<br />
84<br />
Trapiche 2010 Zaphy Malbec (Argentina).<br />
Full of red-fruit aromas, particularly plum and<br />
cherry. Feels raw, with wild berry, ample oak and a lot<br />
of acid-based tang to the palate. Lightly toasty, with a<br />
mild cherry flavor to the finish. Frederick Wildman &<br />
Sons, Ltd. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $10<br />
83<br />
Laberinto 2009 Malbec (Mendoza).<br />
Strange smelling, with aromas of exotic spices,<br />
blueberry and some other notes that don’t come across<br />
that well. Feels solid and chunky, with herbal, sweet flavors<br />
that culminate in a dry, rubbery, herbal-tasting finish.<br />
A.W. Direct. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $10<br />
83<br />
Manos Negras 2010 Malbec (Mendoza).<br />
Smells different than most, with blueberry,<br />
carob and exotic sandalwood. Takes a dive on the palate,<br />
where it’s sweet, syrupy and flat, almost like prune<br />
juice. Along those lines, it tastes pruny, with chocolate<br />
on the finish. Struggles to achieve balance. Vino Del<br />
Sol. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $15<br />
83<br />
Ruca Malen 2010 Yauquén Malbec (Mendoza).<br />
Smells unruly, with animal notes, heavy<br />
char, rubber and mulchy earth. Gets better with airing,<br />
but seems thick on the palate, with stewed berry and<br />
mild green notes. Herbal, roasted and sort of weedy<br />
on the finish. Has been better in the past. Opici <strong>Wine</strong>s.<br />
—M.S.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $12<br />
83<br />
Viñas de Vila 2008 Gran Reserva Malbec<br />
(Mendoza). The grapy nose announces<br />
a heavy, flat type of Malbec with intense color but not<br />
much in the way of acidic lift or excitement. Feels gummy,<br />
with jammy, sweet flavors of blueberry and clove.<br />
Stays sweet and sticky on the finish. Puerto Viejo <strong>Wine</strong>s.<br />
—M.S.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $14<br />
82<br />
Caligiore 2009 Family Vineyards Organic<br />
Legacy Old Vines Single Vineyard Malbec<br />
(Mendoza). Foxy cherry and cough drop aromas<br />
are not convincing. Feels astringent and tastes tart, with<br />
sharp but candied cherry, faux oak and milk chocolate<br />
flavors. Blends sour notes with sweet oak, all to little<br />
avail. Marquee Selections. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $25<br />
82<br />
Camino del Inca 2011 Malbec (Cafayate).<br />
The bouquet is demanding, with burnt tire rubber,<br />
horse, heavy char and muddled black-fruit aromas.<br />
Feels closed and tastes buttery and burnt, with barrel<br />
char and resin sitting heavily atop herbal berry flavors. A<br />
heavily made-up wine. Vino Del Sol. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $15<br />
82<br />
Michel Torino 2010 Don David Reserve<br />
Malbec (Calchaqui Valley). Burnt and<br />
roasted up front, with a leathery nose that doesn’t convey<br />
freshness. Feels choppy and acidic, with herbal,<br />
semitart flavors of burnt berry fruit. Minty and green<br />
on the finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $16<br />
81<br />
Antigua Bodega 2009 Malbec (San<br />
Juan). Smells strongly of corn, stalky fruit,<br />
herbs and grass. Mouthfeel is not a problem, although<br />
it’s a little sticky on the palate. Tastes heavily herbal and<br />
green, with an oaky covering. Short, woody and herbal<br />
on the finish. Mistica <strong>Wine</strong>s LLC. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $12<br />
BONARDA<br />
89<br />
Lamadrid 2009 Single Vineyard Reserva<br />
Bonarda (Agrelo). Big blackberry aromas<br />
show very little rusticity. Feels full but smooth and balanced,<br />
with a nice mix of wild berry, spice and fine herb<br />
flavors. Mellow and not pushy on the finish. Really good<br />
for Bonarda. Vino Del Sol. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $19<br />
89<br />
Maipe 2010 Reserve Old Vine Bonarda<br />
(Mendoza). Clean, pure and uncomplicated<br />
on the nose, showing depth and clarity. Smells and<br />
tastes much like a good Malbec or Cabernet might; it’s<br />
sweet and fruity, with black cherry, pastry, baking spices<br />
and a certain rubbery quality that seems to come with<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>Mag.com | 45
Bonarda. On the money for this variety. Kysela Père et<br />
Fils. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $16<br />
88<br />
Sur de los Andes 2010 Bonarda (Mendoza).<br />
Exotic on the nose, with aromas of raspberry,<br />
plum and blueberry. Shows good intensity on the palate,<br />
with a solid feel and fresh flavors of blackberry and<br />
dark plum. Fresh but smooth on the finish; very good in<br />
every way. <strong>Wine</strong>ry Direct. Best Buy. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $12<br />
87<br />
Alma del Sur 2010 Colección Bonarda<br />
(Mendoza). Interesting aromas of graham<br />
cracker, pastry, blackberry, dark cherry and tomato all<br />
work well together. The palate is full and easy, with<br />
some weight to it along with flavors of black plum and<br />
berry. Not exuberant on the finish; it ends in mellow,<br />
lightly medicinal fashion. Martin Scott <strong>Wine</strong>s. Best<br />
Buy. —M.S.<br />
abv: NA Price: $10<br />
86<br />
Las Perdices 2009 Reserva Bonarda (Luján<br />
de Cuyo). Concentrated and dark upfront,<br />
with black fruit, coffee, chocolate and cheese aromas.<br />
Full and extracted in the mouth, as flavors of charred<br />
wood, blackberry and black pepper take over. Turns hot<br />
and darker on the finish, where bitter chocolate and<br />
peppercorn flavors rise up. Matadorvino LLC. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $20<br />
86<br />
Maipe 2011 Andean Culture Bonarda<br />
(Mendoza). Red berry, sweet cherry and ripe<br />
plum aromas come with a touch of leather. The palate<br />
feels a bit sharp and acidic, with tangy, juicy flavors of<br />
plum and wild berry as well as some stalkiness. Cleansing<br />
and long on the finish thanks to high acidity. Kysela<br />
Père et Fils. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $13<br />
85<br />
Caligiore 2010 Reserve Bonarda (Mendoza).<br />
A medicinal quality comes at you right<br />
away, followed by chocolate-coated cherry, creamy oak<br />
and a distant note of paint or chemical. Feels round and<br />
voluminous, with minty, rubbery flavors of oaky, berry<br />
and chocolate. Finishes dry and oaky, with a buttery aftertaste.<br />
Marquee Selections. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $15<br />
84<br />
Mi Terruño 2009 Reserve Bonarda (Mendoza).<br />
Rubber, plastic and black fruit aromas.<br />
Feels fat and buttery, but with a streak of acidity that<br />
gives it pulse. Flavors of red berry come with oaky support,<br />
and the finish is sweet, oaky and warm. Copa Fina<br />
Imports CA. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $17<br />
84<br />
Tierra Prometida 2008 Clasico Bonarda<br />
(Mendoza). Plum, red berry and wild herb<br />
aromas combine to create a briary whole. As it airs, the<br />
nose turns lemony and hard, while the mouthfeel is<br />
tight and limited, with herbal, saucy, red berry flavors.<br />
Tomato and basil notes appear on the finish. Frontier<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> Imports. —M.S.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $18<br />
81<br />
Viñas de Vila 2009 Reserva Bonarda<br />
(Mendoza). Smells grassy, jumpy and foxy,<br />
46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011<br />
and while it sports a decent feel on the palate, it’s herbal<br />
and tomatoey in terms of flavor, with a vegetal undertone.<br />
Green and oaky on the finish. Puerto Viejo <strong>Wine</strong>s.<br />
—M.S.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $10<br />
RED BLENDS<br />
92<br />
Finca Flichman 2008 Dedicado (Mendoza).<br />
For full review see page 6.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $30<br />
92<br />
Vistalba 2008 Corte A (Mendoza). Beefy<br />
black-fruit aromas are inviting for their accents<br />
of licorice, coconut and crushed minerals. Feels lush,<br />
layered and intense, the perfect framework for lusty<br />
blackberry, toast, mineral and espresso flavors. Long,<br />
warm and dense on the finish. Drink now through 2016;<br />
made from Malbec, Bonarda and Cab Sauvignon. San<br />
Francisco <strong>Wine</strong> Exchange. —M.S.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $50<br />
90<br />
Vistalba 2008 Corte B (Mendoza). Approachable,<br />
high in quality and made from a<br />
mix of Malbec, Cabernet and Bonarda. Smells of lead<br />
pencil, blackberry and dark plum. Feels friendly and<br />
smooth, with lightly buttered oak leading licorice, black<br />
pepper, chocolate and roasted berry flavors. Offers a<br />
lot of good things for the price. Drink now–2015. San<br />
Francisco <strong>Wine</strong> Exchange. —M.S.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $25<br />
89<br />
O. Fournier 2008 B Crux (Uco Valley).<br />
Opens with horsey, leathery aromas that are<br />
funky and wild, but are surrounded by solid berry-fruit<br />
scents. Picks up steam on the palate, which is easygoing,<br />
solidly built and just firm enough. Tastes of blackberry,<br />
cola, spice and chocolate, then finishes smooth and<br />
creamy. Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $25<br />
85<br />
Cicchitti 2008 Blend Edición Limitada<br />
(Mendoza). An odd blend of Pinot Noir, Sangiovese<br />
and Merlot that starts out with aromas of bramble,<br />
brick dust and baked berries. Feels tannic and grabby<br />
initially, before spreading out wide and flat. Tastes<br />
stewy and herbal, with chocolate and spice notes. Probably<br />
strained and strange for the average consumer. 600<br />
cases made. The Artisan Collection. —M.S.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $22<br />
CALIFORNIA<br />
CHARDONNAY<br />
94<br />
Dutton Estate 2010 Dutton Palms Vineyard<br />
Dutton Ranch Chardonnay (Russian<br />
River Valley). The vineyard is in the coolest part of<br />
the Green Valley of the Russian River Valley. The wine,<br />
which is totally dry, is marked by brilliant acidity and<br />
long hangtime flavors of oranges, Meyer lemons and<br />
kiwi fruit, enriched by barrel fermentation and aging.<br />
—S.H.<br />
abv: 14.4% Price: $40<br />
94<br />
Kazmer & Blaise 2009 Boon Fly’s Hill<br />
Chardonnay (Carneros). This is one of the<br />
most Chablis-style Chardonnays on the market. It’s<br />
bone dry, and has a steely, minerally elegance made<br />
complex with layers of pineapples and limes, and even<br />
a honeysuckle richness. The oak, interestingly, comes<br />
from Hungary. A terrific wine, far from the overoaked,<br />
buttered popcorn style so popular now. Production was<br />
only 227 cases. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.4% Price: $50<br />
93<br />
Dutton Estate 2010 Kyndall’s Reserve<br />
Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This<br />
Chardonnay was blended from several vineyards in<br />
Dutton’s extensive portfolio. It’s not only a great example<br />
of the art of blending, it’s a fine wine in itself,<br />
showing brisk acidity and dryness, with rich, complex<br />
orange, Meyer lemon, kiwi fruit, honeysuckle and buttered<br />
toast flavors. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.2% Price: $37<br />
93<br />
Marimar Estate 2010 Acero Don Miguel<br />
Vineyard Unoaked Chardonnay (Russian<br />
River Valley). For full review see page 4. Editors’<br />
Choice.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $29<br />
92<br />
Hunnicutt 2010 Chardonnay (Napa Valley).<br />
Good acidity in this Chardonnay provides<br />
a brisk balance to the ripe pineapple, passion fruit, pear<br />
and spice flavors. Made in the modern style, it has a<br />
minerality that lifts it and provides interest. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $45<br />
92<br />
Marimar Estate 2009 La Masía Don<br />
Miguel Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian<br />
River Valley). For full review see page 6.<br />
abv: 14.3% Price: $35<br />
90<br />
Flora Springs 2010 Barrel Fermented<br />
Chardonnay (Napa Valley). For full review<br />
see page 7.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $30<br />
90<br />
Melville 2010 Clone 76 Inox Chardonnay<br />
(Sta. Rita Hills). Very acidic, giving the ripe<br />
tropical fruit and green pea flavors an almost sparkling<br />
spritziness. But very rich and flamboyant and complex.<br />
This wine was tasted at just about a year of age, and<br />
should calm down by summer 2012. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $36<br />
90<br />
Melville 2010 Estate Chardonnay (Sta.<br />
Rita Hills). Acidity and ripe fruit mark this<br />
Chardonnay, which is lovely to drink now. Don’t chill it<br />
too much, to allow the orange, pineapple and passionfruit<br />
flavors to express their nuances. —S.H.<br />
abv: 13.8% Price: $26<br />
90<br />
Robert Young 2009 Estate Chardonnay<br />
(Alexander Valley). Sure is easy to like this<br />
Chardonnay, with its rich flavors of honey, pineapples,<br />
peaches, crême brulée, vanilla and cinnamon spice. It<br />
seems almost sweet, but zesty acidity and minerality<br />
pull it back into dryness and elegance. —S.H.<br />
abv: NA Price: $42
90<br />
Sarah’s Vineyard 2010 Chardonnay (Santa<br />
Cruz Mountains). This dry, acidic, minerally<br />
Chardonnay brings Burgundy to mind. It has a lot<br />
going for it, but is rather tight and angular despite a rich<br />
vein of pineapple and lemon drop. Distinguished in its<br />
way, it’s a fine wine, at a great price. Editors’ Choice.<br />
—S.H.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $25<br />
90<br />
Stonegate 2010 Chardonnay (Napa Valley).<br />
For full review see page 8. Editors’<br />
Choice.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $25<br />
90<br />
Summerland 2010 Wolff Vineyard Chardonnay<br />
(Edna Valley). Acidity is the best<br />
thing about this Chardonnay. Without it, the tangerine,<br />
apricot and lime flavors, accented by sweet oaky vanilla,<br />
would make it a mere fruit bomb. Tartness wakes it all<br />
up and makes the finish clean and pure. —S.H.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $34<br />
89<br />
Bennett Lane 2008 Reserve Sangiacomo<br />
Vineyard Chardonnay (Carneros). Made<br />
in the popular style, this Chardonnay has flavors of buttered<br />
toast, pineapple jam, vanilla and cinnamon spice.<br />
At the age of three-plus years, it’s soft and mellow. Not<br />
likely to improve, so drink up. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $45<br />
89<br />
Cakebread 2010 Chardonnay (Napa Valley).<br />
Rich and oaky, with pineapple jam, tangerine<br />
juice, buttered toast and vanilla spice flavors. It’s<br />
a big, opulent wine, but a little in your face. Drink now.<br />
—S.H.<br />
abv: 14.2% Price: $37<br />
89<br />
Deep Sea 2009 Chardonnay (Central<br />
Coast). Made in a bone dry, acidic style, what<br />
this Chardonnay lacks in richness it makes up for in elegance.<br />
Fans of sweet, buttery Chards won’t like it, but<br />
true aficionados will appreciate the austere citrus and<br />
mineral flavors. —S.H.<br />
abv: 13.7% Price: $21<br />
88<br />
Bonterra 2010 Chardonnay (Mendocino<br />
County). Bonterra excels with this leaner,<br />
lighter, brighter form of Chardonnay. Made out of organically<br />
grown grapes, it’s crisp as a green apple, with<br />
just a trace of butterscotch on the otherwise lemony finish.<br />
—V.B.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $14<br />
88<br />
J. Wilkes 2008 Bien Nacido Vineyard<br />
Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). Lush,<br />
creamy and smooth, with buttered toast, lemon custard,<br />
crême brulée and spice flavors. Maybe a little overworked,<br />
but it satisfies Chardonnay cravings. —S.H.<br />
abv: 13.8% Price: $24<br />
88<br />
Melville 2010 Verna’s Estate Chardonnay<br />
(Santa Barbara County). New oak sticks<br />
out on this Chardonnay, with buttered toast and vanilla<br />
dominating the tropical fruit, orange and Meyer lemon<br />
flavors. It’s finely constructed, with deft acidity and a<br />
stony minerality. Drink now–2013. —S.H.<br />
abv: 13.8% Price: $22<br />
88<br />
Sarah’s Vineyard 2010 Estate Chardonnay<br />
(Santa Clara Valley). Oak dominates<br />
this Chardonnay in its buttered toast, caramel and butterscotch<br />
flavors. Buried under that are pleasantly ripe<br />
pineapples and lemons. The winery suggests it will age<br />
through 2020, but that seems doubtful. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.4% Price: $30<br />
87<br />
Darcie Kent Vineyards 2010 DeMayo<br />
Vineyard Chardonnay (Livermore Valley).<br />
For full review see page 9.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $30<br />
87<br />
Francis Ford Coppola 2010 Director’s<br />
Cut Chardonnay (Russian River Valley).<br />
Made in the popular style, with flavors of buttered popcorn,<br />
toast, honey, pineapple and vanilla. Tastes rather<br />
sweet, but brisk acidity helps maintain balance. —S.H.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $21<br />
87<br />
Francis Ford Coppola 2010 Votre Santé<br />
Chardonnay (California). Lots to like in this<br />
smooth, polished Chardonnay. It shows plenty of ripe<br />
pineapple, peach and pear flavors, with overtones of<br />
vanilla and buttered toast. Good price for the quality.<br />
—S.H.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $14<br />
87<br />
Sarah’s Vineyard 2009 Chardonnay (Santa<br />
Cruz Mountains). Seems like it might have<br />
been better a year ago. Although you’ll find rich pineapple,<br />
lemon drop and butterscotch flavors, they’re getting<br />
a little tired, and the oak is starting to dominate.<br />
—S.H.<br />
abv: 14.2% Price: $25<br />
87<br />
Tortoise Creek 2010 Jam’s Blend Chardonnay<br />
(Lodi). For full review see page 11.<br />
Best Buy.<br />
abv: 13.3% Price: $11<br />
86<br />
Black Stallion 2010 Chardonnay (Napa<br />
Valley). Dry, minerally and acidic, this Chardonnay<br />
offers pineapple, lemon and mineral flavors. It’s<br />
a food-friendly wine that won’t compete with what you<br />
eat. At this price, it’s a good restaurant wine, and easy to<br />
find, with 7,500 cases produced. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $19<br />
86<br />
Rodney Strong 2009 Reserve Chardonnay<br />
(Russian River Valley). Overworked<br />
and oaky, with vanilla, buttered toast and sweet caramel<br />
flavors dominating everything else. Buried beneath are<br />
pineapple and pear flavors. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $35<br />
86<br />
Ruby Hill <strong>Wine</strong>ry 2009 Reserve Chardonnay<br />
(Livermore Valley). Ruby Hill’s Reserve<br />
has the requisite pear, lemon and tropical fruit so many<br />
Chardonnay lovers adore, and its barrel influence is very<br />
strong, both in its richness and creamy body. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $20<br />
86<br />
Summerland 2010 Chardonnay (Santa<br />
Barbara County). Oak stands out, bringing<br />
buttered toast and butterscotch candy flavors that dominate<br />
the underlying pineapple, lemon drop and green<br />
apple fruit. Brisk acidity and a tangy minerality add layers<br />
of appeal. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $18<br />
85<br />
Black Box 2010 Chardonnay (Monterey<br />
County). At the equivalent of about $6 a bottle,<br />
this is a good buy. It’s made in the popular Chardonnay<br />
style, with pineapple, peach and spice flavors accented<br />
by smoky oak. Best Buy. —S.H.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $25/3 L<br />
85<br />
Concannon 2010 Reserve Chardonnay<br />
(Livermore Valley). A ripe Chardonnay, big<br />
and full, with fistfuls of oak influence and a spoonful of<br />
sugar to help it go down. Find some rich crab cakes in a<br />
creamy sauce and enjoy. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.7% Price: $20<br />
85<br />
De Loach 2010 OFS Chardonnay (Russian<br />
River Valley). New oak accounts for only<br />
30% of the barrel regimen, but it dominates this Chardonnay,<br />
with buttered toast, vanilla and caramel flavors.<br />
Fortunately there’s also strong pineapple, Asian pear<br />
and apricot fruit, but the oak is too powerful. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $30<br />
85<br />
Garnet 2010 Chardonnay (Sonoma<br />
Coast). Butterscotch and pineapple and peach<br />
jam flavors mark this Chardonnay. Fortunately, it’s balanced<br />
with crisp acidity and a certain minerality. It’s an<br />
obvious crowd pleaser, and would score higher except<br />
for the seemingly sweet finish. —S.H.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $15<br />
85<br />
Sarah’s Vineyard 2010 Chardonnay<br />
(Central Coast). Take a few bucks off the<br />
price, and this would be a good value. As things stand,<br />
this Chardonnay, which is a blend of Santa Clara Valley<br />
and Santa Cruz Mountains fruit, is fairly standard. It’s<br />
dry and crisp, with pleasant lemon-custard flavors that<br />
turn a little unripe on the finish. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.2% Price: $20<br />
84<br />
Bardessono 2010 Chardonnay (Knights<br />
Valley). Not much going on in this heavy Chardonnay<br />
beyond the oak. There are modest pineapple<br />
and peach flavors, but they wash away quickly. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.2% Price: $27<br />
84<br />
Castle Rock 2010 Chardonnay (Russian<br />
River Valley). Too oaky and forward in tropical<br />
fruit flavors. Takes the popular style and exaggerates<br />
it. It will nonetheless appeal to lots of people. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $18<br />
84<br />
Stonegate 2010 Collection Chardonnay<br />
(California). Toasty oak, pineapples, oranges<br />
and vanilla combine in this Chardonnay to make it an<br />
easy-drinking everyday sipper. It seems little sweet, like<br />
jam. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $16<br />
84<br />
Whetstone 2009 El Pajaro Chardonnay<br />
(Carneros). An eccentric Chardonnay, not at<br />
all like the vast majority. With its apricot jam, lychee,<br />
sautéed banana, honey and crême brulée flavors, it’s an<br />
outlier. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.6% Price: $45<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>Mag.com | 47
83<br />
Sebastiani 2009 Chardonnay (Carneros).<br />
Too sweet, like pineapple and pear juice sweetened<br />
with white sugar. The underlying wine is pretty<br />
good, with decent acidity and a clean minerality. But<br />
that sweetness is over the top. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.8% Price: $25<br />
82<br />
Foyt Family 2010 No. 67 Chardonnay (Sonoma<br />
County). Simple and soft, with sugary<br />
sweet apricot and orange flavors that turn cloying on the<br />
finish. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $26<br />
82<br />
Pomar Junction 2009 Espiritu Chardonnay<br />
(Santa Barbara County). Sweet and<br />
simple, with orange and vanilla cream flavors. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.3% Price: $25<br />
82<br />
Sebastiani 2010 Chardonnay (Sonoma<br />
County). Made in the popular style, this Chardonnay<br />
features buttered popcorn, pineapple jam and<br />
buttered toast flavors. Turns cloyingly sweet on the finish.<br />
—S.H.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $13<br />
SAUVIGNON BLANC<br />
92<br />
Dutton Estate 2010 Cohen Vineyard Dutton<br />
Ranch Sauvignon Blanc (Russian<br />
River Valley). This wine saw no oak barrel aging, but<br />
it’s so rich and satisfyingly clean, it’s probably better off<br />
not being weighed down by caramel and buttered toast.<br />
Brimming with brisk acidity, it shows brilliantly pure citrus<br />
fruit, tart gooseberry, Asian pear, green apple, mineral<br />
and white pepper flavors. The vineyard is in Green<br />
Valley. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.<br />
abv: 12.8% Price: $22<br />
90<br />
Deep Sea 2009 Coquina Sauvignon<br />
Blanc (Arroyo Grande Valley). A delicious<br />
Sauvignon Blanc, really fine. It showcases how well this<br />
cool little corner of Monterey County, with its stony<br />
soils, ripens white wines. Brisk in acidity and laden with<br />
minerals, it offers rich flavors of citrus fruits, white flowers,<br />
white currants and spices. —S.H.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $32<br />
90<br />
Foursight 2010 Charles Vineyard Sauvignon<br />
Blanc (Anderson Valley). Anderson<br />
Valley is better known for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay,<br />
but the cool climate is also good for Sauvignon Blanc.<br />
Foursight’s 2010 is a delightful wine, vibrant in citrus,<br />
tropical fruit and peach flavors, and there’s no oak to<br />
interfere with its purity. With a finish that seems just<br />
a little sweet, it’s a fine companion for Asian fare. Editors’<br />
Choice. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.3% Price: $20<br />
90<br />
Raymond 2010 Reserve Selection Sauvignon<br />
Blanc (Napa Valley). Fermented and<br />
aged in stainless steel, this wine is all about fresh, vibrant<br />
fruit. Limes, Meyer lemons, gooseberries, Asian<br />
pears and something tropical, like papayas, all mingle<br />
together. Aging on the lees, which is a popular intervention<br />
in many unoaked white wines, gives addition-<br />
48 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012<br />
al notes of cream and sourdough. Editors’ Choice.<br />
—S.H.<br />
abv: 14.8% Price: $15<br />
88<br />
Carica 2010 Kick Ranch Sauvignon<br />
Blanc (Sonoma County). A very nice Sauvignon,<br />
easy to drink, and showing lots of style and elegance.<br />
Bone dry and zesty in acidity, it has citrus, tropical<br />
fruit and white pepper flavors, with a stimulating<br />
touch of tart gooseberry. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $21<br />
88<br />
Dutton Estate 2010 Kylie’s Cuvée Sauvignon<br />
Blanc (Russian River Valley). This is<br />
Dutton Estate’s unoaked Sauvignon Blanc. It did not<br />
go through the malolactic fermentation, but it started<br />
as very ripe grapes, so what you get is pure citrus,<br />
Asian pear, white peach and green apple flavor, zesty<br />
and clean in acidity, with slight a sweetness in the finish.<br />
Nice with Indian, Chinese, Vietnamese fare. —S.H.<br />
abv: 13.7% Price: $20<br />
87<br />
Cakebread 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa<br />
Valley). With bright, zesty acidity, this Sauvignon<br />
Blanc is clean and vibrant in orange, pineapple,<br />
lime and gooseberry flavors. If only it finished drier, it<br />
would be superb. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $24<br />
87<br />
Flora Springs 2010 Soliloquy Sauvignon<br />
Blanc (Oakville). This proprietary bottling<br />
from Flora Springs has been around for a long time. It’s<br />
a good wine, satisfying in citrus, peach and spice flavors,<br />
leading to a clean, fruity-sweet finish. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.2% Price: $20<br />
87<br />
Jacob Franklin 2010 Massa Ranch Vineyard<br />
Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). The<br />
vineyard is in Yountville, and the wine shows plenty of<br />
the zesty acidity that marks this cool portion of Napa<br />
Valley. The wine also exhibits ripe flavors of oranges,<br />
Meyer lemons, kiwi fruit and sweet limes. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.2% Price: $26<br />
86<br />
J Ludlow 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Santa<br />
Ynez Valley). Brisk in acidity, this everyday<br />
Sauvignon Blanc has ripe, bright flavors of tangerines,<br />
peaches and pineapples. It’s a good by-the-glass wine<br />
for restaurants. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $19<br />
86<br />
J Ludlow 2008 Sauvignon Blanc (Santa<br />
Ynez Valley). This is a good, everyday Sauvignon<br />
Blanc. It’s sweet and jammy in pineapples, grapefruits,<br />
peaches and tangerines, brightened with crisp<br />
acidity. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $19<br />
86<br />
Lola Kay 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa<br />
Valley). For full review see page 9.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $16<br />
86<br />
Sea Fog 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa<br />
Valley). A touch of oak adds some creaminess,<br />
but this 100% Sauvignon Blanc is marked mainly by<br />
fresh fruit flavors of lemons, limes and oranges. It’s zesty<br />
in acidity, but could be a little drier. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $25<br />
VIOGNIER<br />
86<br />
Melville 2010 Verna’s Estate Viognier<br />
(Santa Barbara County). Despite lots of ripe<br />
peach, white flower and spice flavors, this Viognier is a<br />
little uneven. It’s too sweet, almost a dessert wine, and<br />
yet there’s a green pea, vegetal note. —S.H.<br />
abv: NA Price: $26<br />
84<br />
Whetstone 2009 Catie’s Corner Vineyard<br />
Viognier (Russian River Valley). Toasted<br />
oak dominates everything in this Viognier, which features<br />
charred wood, buttered toast, butterscotch and<br />
vanilla aromas and flavors. The fruit is pretty buried.<br />
—S.H.<br />
abv: 14.7% Price: $40<br />
82<br />
Pomar Junction 2010 Viognier (Paso Robles).<br />
Sweet, soft and simple to the point of<br />
insipid, with jellied apricot, orange and vanilla flavors.<br />
—S.H.<br />
abv: 14.9% Price: $25<br />
WHITE BLENDS<br />
88<br />
Venge 2010 Spettro (Napa Valley). Cabernet<br />
specialist Venge tinkers with white blends<br />
under the Spettro designation, with inconsistent results.<br />
This 2010 is mainly Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay,<br />
with a splash of Chenin Blanc. It’s a good, sound white<br />
wine, dry and crisp in acidity, with mineral-infused pear,<br />
citrus fruit and apricot flavors. No oak is evident. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $26<br />
87<br />
Sarah’s Vineyard 2010 Estate Côte de<br />
Madrone Blanc (Santa Clara Valley). This<br />
Roussanne, Viognier, Marsanne and Grenache Blanc<br />
blend is very rich and fruity. It has all kinds of fruity,<br />
flowery, spicy and toasty flavors, brightened with crisp<br />
acidity. A nice, easy-drinking alternative to a creamy<br />
Chardonnay. —S.H.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $25<br />
85<br />
Turn 4 2010 White (California). Sweet and<br />
forward in pineapple, peach and lime flavors,<br />
this is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. It<br />
has good acidity and a clean, spicy finish. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $15<br />
OTHER WHITE WINES<br />
92<br />
J. Wilkes 2007 Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot<br />
Blanc (Santa Maria Valley). Very rich<br />
and opulent, with maybe a touch of botrytis giving the<br />
apricot, orange and buttercream flavors a honeyed decadence.<br />
Bright acidity keeps it all clean and balanced.<br />
Showing exceptionally well for a white wine at 4½ years<br />
of age. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $19<br />
92<br />
Marimar Estate 2010 Don Miguel Vineyard<br />
Albariño (Russian River Valley). For<br />
full review see page 6.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $32
91<br />
Coghlan 2009 Tourmaline Grenache<br />
Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley). For full review<br />
see page 7.<br />
abv: 13.6% Price: $24<br />
91<br />
Cutruzzola 2010 Riven Rock Vineyard<br />
Riesling (San Luis Obispo County). What<br />
a lovely Riesling. The grapes were grown near the coast,<br />
and you can taste the zesty natural acidity, which gives a<br />
lift to the orange, lime, mineral and honeysuckle flavors.<br />
It’s a little sweet, but the finish is dry and spicy. Great to<br />
drink now. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $22<br />
90<br />
Manzoni 2010 North Highlands Cuvée<br />
Pinot Gris (Santa Lucia Highlands). Rich<br />
doesn’t begin to describe this Pinot Gris. It’s explosive in<br />
orange and apricot jam flavors, with vanilla and buttered<br />
toast layers. There’s a fat, oily texture that adds interest<br />
to a variety that can be simple. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.2% Price: $18<br />
88<br />
Tangent 2010 Grenache Blanc (Edna Valley).<br />
With no oak to interfere with the fruit, this<br />
wine shows flashy tangerine, pineapple, Meyer lemon<br />
and tart lime flavors that are bone dry, and brightened<br />
by Edna Valley acidity. It’s savory, refreshing and frankly<br />
delicious. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $20<br />
86<br />
Bailiwick 2010 Vermentino (California).<br />
Basically dry, this Vermentino is crisp in acidity<br />
and forward in lemon, lime and tangerine fruit. It’s<br />
a nice, easy drinking wine to try as a switch from Sauvignon<br />
Blanc and Pinot Grigio. —S.H.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $18<br />
SPARKLING WINES<br />
91<br />
One Hope 2009 Two Pisces Vineyard Reserve<br />
Blanc de Noir (Sonoma Coast). It’s<br />
easy to like this smooth, clean sparkling wine, which<br />
hails from the Petaluma Gap, an increasingly important<br />
area in the cool, foggy south of the Russian River Valley.<br />
It’s very rich in raspberries and strawberries, with notes<br />
of sweet vanilla and yeast. The mouthfeel is smooth and<br />
elegant. —S.H.<br />
abv: 12.4% Price: $45<br />
89<br />
One Hope 2009 Split Rock Vineyard Reserve<br />
Blanc de Blancs (Sonoma Coast).<br />
A little rough in the mouth, with a scoury feeling. But<br />
it’s extraordinarily rich in orange and lime flavors, with<br />
the vanilla and yeasty dough accents you want in a nice<br />
sparkling wine. —S.H.<br />
abv: 12.4% Price: $45<br />
89<br />
Schramsberg 2004 Extra Brut (North<br />
Coast). Extra brut means that this Pinot Noirbased<br />
bubbly is drier than Schramsberg’s regular brut.<br />
Even at the age of more than seven years, it’s aggressive<br />
in bubbly acidity, with a scoury mouthfeel framing ripe<br />
raspberry and lime flavors. Feels austere and hard, but<br />
who knows? Could surprise. A gamble if you want to<br />
cellar it. —S.H.<br />
abv: 12.9% Price: $70<br />
87<br />
Iron Horse 2007 Chinese Cuvée (Green<br />
Valley). Iron Horse crafted this brut, which has<br />
a gorgeous red and yellow label, for the Chinese market.<br />
It’s similar to their other bruts, dry and rich in lime,<br />
strawberry and yeasty flavors, although it’s softer, which<br />
may reflect what Iron Horse knows about the Chinese<br />
palate. The price also seems to reflect what Iron Horse<br />
believes the Chinese market will bear. —S.H.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $98<br />
CABERNETS & BLENDS<br />
95<br />
Hunnicutt 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Oakville). Strong Oakville tannins mark this<br />
100% Cabernet, although they’re so ripely sweet, you<br />
can negotiate them now, especially considering the opulence<br />
of the fruit. Blackberries, cassis and dark chocolate<br />
just begin to describe the flavors. They’re as sweet<br />
as a dessert pastry, but the finish is utterly dry, a magic<br />
trick the best red wines pull off. Beautiful now after decanting,<br />
and should develop through 2018. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.7% Price: $75<br />
95<br />
Hunnicutt 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Rutherford). Made from 100% Cabernet,<br />
this wine hits all the right notes. It’s fantastically rich<br />
and ripe, with flavors of sweet cherries, cassis and dark<br />
chocolate, while oak brings delicious notes of buttered<br />
toast. The tannins are complex, but so soft you can enjoy<br />
this wine now, although it should develop for at least a<br />
decade. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.7% Price: $75<br />
95<br />
Venge 2009 Bone Ash Vineyard Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review<br />
see page 3.<br />
abv: 14.9% Price: $80<br />
94<br />
Clos du Val 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Stags Leap District). One thing you can<br />
depend on concerning Clos du Val’s Cabernets is that<br />
they’re elegant. The winery resolutely refuses to kowtow<br />
to the modern style of ultraripe, extracted fruit,<br />
high alcohol and massive oak. This lovely Cab, which<br />
contains a drop of Merlot, defines their style, and is a<br />
joy to drink. It has rich, complex cherry and blackberry<br />
flavors, flecked with earth and herbs, and is just beginning<br />
a long journey. Now–2021, at least. Cellar Selection.<br />
—S.H.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $75<br />
94<br />
Pestoni Family 2007 Estate Reserve Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (Howell Mountain). A<br />
terrific Cabernet Sauvignon, dramatically structured in<br />
smooth mountain tannins, with lush, complex blackberry,<br />
cassis and dark chocolate flavors. Satisfies on every<br />
level you could ask of Napa Valley. Good as it is, it will<br />
age over a decade. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.4% Price: $65<br />
94<br />
Robert Young 2008 Scion Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Alexander Valley). Another terrific<br />
Scion from Robert Young. Blended this year from<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit<br />
Verdot, it’s rich in blackberry and cherry fruit, with<br />
caramel from oak barrels. Feels soft and gentle in the<br />
mouth, in the way of Alexander Valley Cabernet. An au-<br />
thentic wine of place, it deserves a place on the best<br />
tables. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.8% Price: $62<br />
94<br />
Volker Eisele Family Estate 2008 Alexander<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley).<br />
For full review see page 4. Cellar Selection.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $125<br />
93<br />
Bennett Lane 2008 Reserve Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A distinguished<br />
Cabernet, rich in fruit and impeccably oaked. But it’s<br />
young. There’s a fresh, jammy taste to the blackberries,<br />
cassis and dark chocolate, and the tannins are brisk and<br />
fuzzy. Don’t drink it until at least 2015, and it should<br />
develop for years afterward. Cellar Selection. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $95<br />
93<br />
Flora Springs 2009 Hillside Reserve Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (Rutherford). For full review<br />
see page 4.<br />
abv: 14.4% Price: $100<br />
93<br />
Mario Perelli-Minetti 2005 Miriam Reserve<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley).<br />
Shows the lush richness, dryness and complexity<br />
you want in a fine Napa Valley Cabernet. At more than<br />
six years of age, the tannins are just beginning to resolve,<br />
although they’re still pretty fierce. But the flavors<br />
are beautiful, showing classic blackberries, cassis, dark<br />
chocolate, plums and cedar. Drink now–2015. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.2% Price: $75<br />
93<br />
Rodney Strong 2008 Symmetry Meritage<br />
(Alexander Valley). For full review see page 5.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $55<br />
93<br />
Rutherford Grove 2008 Pestoni Family<br />
Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford).<br />
A beautiful Cabernet, dry and rich, with wonderful tannins.<br />
They’re firm, yet soft and sweet, an apparent contradiction<br />
the palate loves. Shows near perfect ripeness,<br />
an impressive range of blackberries, plums and cassis,<br />
and an earthy herbaceousness. May be a little too young<br />
for proper enjoyment, so give it a few years in the cellar.<br />
—S.H.<br />
abv: 14.3% Price: $45<br />
92<br />
Atlas Peak 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Mount Veeder). For full review see page 5.<br />
Cellar Selection.<br />
abv: 14.6% Price: $86<br />
92<br />
Flora Springs 2009 Trilogy (Napa Valley).<br />
For full review see page 6.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $65<br />
92<br />
Rubissow 2006 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Mount Veeder). Seems to have hardly<br />
aged over nearly six years, still showing massive blackberry,<br />
cherry, cassis and dark chocolate flavors, sweet<br />
and fresh. Lots of oak, too, bringing even more caramelized<br />
sweetness. Yet the finish is dry, long and spicy.<br />
Made from 100% Cabernet, but sometimes these wines<br />
surprise. Give it another six years. Cellar Selection.<br />
—S.H.<br />
abv: 14.7% Price: $125<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>Mag.com | 49
91<br />
Clone 7 2008 Reserve Cuvée Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review<br />
see page 6. Editors’ Choice.<br />
abv: NA Price: $20<br />
91<br />
Rubissow 2008 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Mount Veeder). Cabernet simply<br />
doesn’t get richer or riper than this. It’s a massive explosion<br />
of sweet cherry and blackberry jam, cassis, dark<br />
chocolate and caramelized oak, wrapped into firm tannins.<br />
Tastes like a candy bar now, nowhere near ready<br />
to drink. Hold until 2015, at least. Cellar Selection.<br />
—S.H.<br />
abv: 14.9% Price: $125<br />
90<br />
Atlas Peak 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Napa Valley). For full review see page 7.<br />
abv: 14.9% Price: $35<br />
90<br />
Bennett Lane 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Napa Valley). Made in a style to appeal to<br />
the popular taste for Cabernet, and succeeds wildly. It’s<br />
delicious, offering waves of blackberries, cherries and<br />
plums, wrapped in firm, ripe tannins and finished with<br />
smoky oak. No mere fruit bomb, it’s a complex wine<br />
with a long, spicy finish. Drink now–2014. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $55<br />
90<br />
Buehler 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa<br />
Valley). For full review see page 7. Editors’<br />
Choice.<br />
abv: 14.6% Price: $25<br />
90<br />
Jacob Franklin 2007 Hoffman Lane Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Made in<br />
the modern style, this Cabernet is dark in color, soft in<br />
acids and tannins, and enormously fruity. The flavors of<br />
blackberries, blueberries, mocha and roasted nuts suggest<br />
sweetened granola candy. It’s a flashy wine that impresses<br />
for its sheer power. Drink now-2015. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.6% Price: $65<br />
90<br />
Occasio 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Livermore Valley). For full review see page<br />
8.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $36<br />
90<br />
Rodney Strong 2008 Reserve Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). For full review<br />
see page 8.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $45<br />
90<br />
Rubissow 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Mount Veeder). For full review see page 8.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $50<br />
90<br />
Rubissow 2007 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Mount Veeder). At the age of more<br />
than four years, this 100% Cabernet remains an immature<br />
clash of fruit, oak and tannins. Everything sticks<br />
out, especially the massive blackberry and cassis flavors.<br />
The oak is sweet and butterscotchy on the finish. With a<br />
superb structure, it seems like an ideal cellar candidate,<br />
except for a touch of bitter raisin in the finish. Hard to<br />
predict its future. Try in 2015. Cellar Selection. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.9% Price: $125<br />
50 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012<br />
89<br />
Armanino Family Cellars 2009 Reserve<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley).<br />
Marked by acidity, strong tannins and powerful fruit,<br />
this Cabernet is a three-way playoff. The fruit is the obvious<br />
early victor, flashy in plums, blackberries, cassis<br />
and cedar. But the astringency makes it difficult to enjoy<br />
now. Cellar for six years, and see what happens. Cellar<br />
Selection. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.8% Price: $95<br />
89<br />
Darcie Kent Vineyards 2008 Madden<br />
Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon (Livermore<br />
Valley). For full review see page 9.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $24<br />
89<br />
Hawk and Horse Vineyards 2008 Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (Red Hills Lake County).<br />
Hawk and Horse have managed to make a delicious<br />
Cabernet from a challenging vintage. Dark, earthy flavors<br />
of cedar, spice and blackberry, are enriched with<br />
plenty of smoothness and structure to give it that extra<br />
something special. Made by winemakers Dick Peterson<br />
and Scott Harvey from a certified-Biodynamic vineyard<br />
with rocky red soil at 2,200 feet above sea level. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $65<br />
89<br />
Silver Oak 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Napa Valley). Lots of nice blackberry, cassis,<br />
plum and new oak flavors in this dry, tannic Cabernet.<br />
It hews to an old-fashioned style, with an earthiness that<br />
suggests time in the cellar. Try after 2014. —S.H.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $100<br />
89<br />
Venge 2009 Silencieux Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Napa Valley). A tremendous wine.<br />
Made from 100% Cabernet and raised for nearly two<br />
years in 40% new French oak, it defines the ripe, hedonistic<br />
Napa style. Yet it’s no mere fruit bomb, offering a<br />
tobaccoey earthiness to the berries. A touch of raisins<br />
and heat in the finish seems to limit ageability, though,<br />
so drink up. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.8% Price: $48<br />
88<br />
Amizetta 2009 Terraced Hillside Estate<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Lots<br />
of ripe blackberry and cherry fruit in this Cabernet, accented<br />
with notes of licorice and oak. It’s a good wine,<br />
full-bodied, tannic and dry. Very good now, especially<br />
after a brief decant, but too dependent on fruit for a<br />
higher score, and doesn’t seem like an ager. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $45<br />
88<br />
Coghlan 2009 Spessartite on Quartz Fusion<br />
(Santa Ynez Valley). Half Merlot and<br />
half Cabernet Sauvignon. The Merlot saves the day, rescuing<br />
the underripe Cab with rich flavors of cherries<br />
and red plums. Oak adds the usual notes of sweet buttered<br />
toast and spice. Drink now. —S.H.<br />
abv: 15.4% Price: $47<br />
88<br />
Concannon 2008 Mother Vine Reserve<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon (Livermore Valley).<br />
This wine adds to the growing case to be made for Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon in Livermore Valley. Mother Vine Reserve<br />
is a smallish offering for Concannon, loaded with<br />
black olive, tea and black pepper. It’s Cab Franc-esque<br />
in some way, yet intensely dark, brooding and velvety.<br />
—V.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $35<br />
88<br />
Fazeli Cellars 2008 Khayyam Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (California). For full review see<br />
page 9.<br />
abv: 15.2% Price: $44<br />
88<br />
Francis Ford Coppola 2009 Director’s<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County).<br />
Made from 100% Cabernet, this is a fine everyday wine.<br />
It’s dry, full-bodied and satisfying in blackberry, cola and<br />
currant flavors, with a nice kiss of oak. The alcohol level<br />
is nice and low. Ready to drink now. —S.H.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $21<br />
88<br />
Foyt Family 2009 No. 72 Meritage (Sonoma<br />
County). A nice dry wine to drink now.<br />
It’s soft and velvety in the mouth, with flavors of blackberries,<br />
plums, anise and cedar. Blended with a little<br />
Cabernet Franc and Merlot, it’s brightened by a bite of<br />
acidity. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $32<br />
88<br />
Frias 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Spring<br />
Mountain). Acidity hits the palate like a shard<br />
of glass, immediately followed by rich, concentrated flavors<br />
of blackberries, cassis and spices. The tannins are<br />
strong, too. All the parts simply have not come together.<br />
Will it age well? It’s not a slam dunk. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $70<br />
88<br />
Ideology Cellars 2008 Estate Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). With sweet blackberry,<br />
cassis, anise and mocha flavors, this Cabernet is a<br />
flashy wine, but you’ll find some overripe, raisiny notes<br />
toward the finish. Drink now before it goes downhill.<br />
—S.H.<br />
abv: 14.4% Price: $48<br />
88<br />
J Ludlow 2009 Kemsley 1550 Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (Santa Ynez Valley). Here’s<br />
a softly smooth, polished Cabernet for drinking now.<br />
Blended with 20% Merlot, it has approachable flavors<br />
of berries, mocha, cassis and toasty oak. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.6% Price: $30<br />
88<br />
Jacob Franklin 2007 #50 Mon Chou<br />
(Napa Valley). Marked by enormously ripe,<br />
powerful fruit flavors, this wine explodes with jammy<br />
blackberries, cherries and red plums. Oak adds even<br />
richer notes of toast and sweet caramel. Drink this deliciously<br />
soft wine now. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.4% Price: $55<br />
88<br />
Mario Perelli-Minetti 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Napa Valley). Lots of ripe, pleasurable<br />
flavors of blackberries, black currants, dark chocolate,<br />
plums and oak in this dry, nicely structured Cabernet.<br />
It’s pretty tannic, though, with a tough astringency,<br />
and doesn’t have the fruit to outlast the tannins over<br />
time, so give it a decant and drink soon. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $23<br />
88<br />
Maroon 2009 Maroon Vineyard Reserve<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Sweet<br />
and lush, showing ripe blackberry, plum, cassis, raisin
and oak flavors. It’s one of those wines that just feels<br />
fine in the mouth, satisfying your basic Cabernet craving.<br />
Drink now–2015. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $80<br />
88<br />
The Grade 2008 Winfield Vineyard Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (Calistoga). This 100%<br />
Cabernet was grown in a Calistoga vineyard. It was aged<br />
in 40% new oak. At the age of 3½ years, it’s still quite<br />
tannic, even a bit rustic, with zippy acidity and fresh,<br />
jammy blackberry and black cherry flavors. Hard to say<br />
where it’s going, but try aging it for 5–6 years and see<br />
what happens. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.3% Price: $80<br />
88<br />
Tortoise Creek 2009 Cherokee Lane Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (Lodi). For full review see<br />
page 11. Best Buy.<br />
abv: 13.8% Price: $11<br />
87<br />
Beringer 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Knights Valley). Feels rough in the<br />
mouth, with jagged tannins framing ripe, extracted<br />
blackberry jam and oak flavors. A little rustic and fruitysweet<br />
now, but could gain traction with a few years in<br />
the cellar. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $45<br />
87<br />
Black Box 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(California). Quite a good Cabernet, especially<br />
at this price. They blended some other varieties, including<br />
Zinfandel, Malbec and Petite Sirah, which bring<br />
extra layers. It’s a fine everyday wine—fruity, spicy, fullbodied<br />
and dry. Best Buy. —S.H.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $25/3 L<br />
87<br />
Francis Ford Coppola 2009 Black Label<br />
Diamond Collection 1910 Type Claret<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon (California). A rich, lusty<br />
wine, dry and easy to like for its array of blackberry,<br />
cherry, anise and sandalwood flavors. Made from the<br />
traditional Bordeaux varieties, based on Cabernet Sauvignon,<br />
it really pleases the palate. Drink now. —S.H.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $20<br />
87<br />
J Ludlow 2009 Jane (Santa Ynez Valley).<br />
Mostly Merlot, with some Cabernet Sauvignon,<br />
this blend starts out a bit angular, so give it some air before<br />
drinking. Although it’s not an ager, it shows pleasantly<br />
ripe blackberry, cherry, mocha, herb and spice flavors.<br />
—S.H.<br />
abv: 14.6% Price: $35<br />
87<br />
J Ludlow 2008 Kemsley 1550 Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (Santa Ynez Valley). Fresh and<br />
jammy in raspberries, cherries and blackberries, this<br />
wine trades complexity for sheer fruity power and lusciousness.<br />
Drink now. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.6% Price: $30<br />
87<br />
Lava Cap 2009 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(El Dorado). A very soft-textured Cab,<br />
unusual for its high-elevation origins, with sweet red<br />
fruit and dark plum nestled around a trace of chocolate.<br />
—V.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $22<br />
87<br />
Valley Legend 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(St. Helena). With a soft mouthfeel and upfront<br />
cherry, blueberry and blackberry flavors, this Cabernet<br />
puts all its chips on sheer deliciousness. It’s a winner,<br />
but not an ager. Drink now. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.7% Price: $60<br />
86<br />
Burgess 2008 Estate Vineyards Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Made from estate<br />
grapes, this blend of all five Bordeaux varieties shows<br />
the hard tannins and minerality that characterize Howell<br />
Mountain reds. However, it’s surprisingly soft and its<br />
blackberries and currants are modest in scale, making it<br />
a sound wine for drinking now, but not for aging. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $38<br />
86<br />
Cakebread 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Napa Valley). Oak dominates this wine, with<br />
toasty charcoal aromas and flavors. The underlying<br />
wine seems pretty simple, with blackberry fruit flavors.<br />
Doesn’t seem capable of aging, so drink up. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $60<br />
86<br />
ecoVINO NV Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendocino<br />
County). Encased in a lightweight,<br />
eco-friendly AstraPouch, this easy-to-share Cabernet is<br />
full of bright, cherry-fruit flavors and clove. It’s simply<br />
drinkable and a good way to go for picnics, tailgates or<br />
when you just want a small pour. —V.B.<br />
abv: 13.4% Price: $19/1.5 L<br />
86<br />
Heron 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendocino<br />
County). A simple, straightforward<br />
Cab. It shows herb and green pepper amid clove and<br />
currant and it’s low enough in alcohol not to mess you<br />
up. A perfectly fine everyday wine. —V.B.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $14<br />
86<br />
Hesperian 2007 Harry’s Vineyard Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). The vineyard<br />
is in Coombsville, a cool part of the valley that recently<br />
received official recognition as an AVA. The wine, which<br />
was made from 100% Cabernet, is soft, sweet and oaky,<br />
showing simple blackberry, cherry and anise flavors.<br />
—S.H.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $70<br />
86<br />
Hesperian 2007 Muscatine Vineyards<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Almost<br />
black in color and still very tannic, even at more<br />
than four years of age, this Cabernet is dry and soft in<br />
blackberry, cassis, dark chocolate and oak flavors. Despite<br />
being made from 100% Cabernet, its aging possibilities<br />
seem limited. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.9% Price: $80<br />
86<br />
Hesperian 2007 Tom’s Vineyard Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (Rutherford). Ripeness was<br />
no problem during this fantastic vintage. The wine is<br />
rich and satisfying in black cherries, currants, cola, spicy<br />
mushu plum sauce and sandalwood flavors. There are<br />
some irregularities, though, that limit the point score,<br />
such as excessive softness, out of place acidity and a candied<br />
sweetness on the finish. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $70<br />
86<br />
Hesperian 2007 Tony’s Vineyard Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (Spring Mountain). Soft<br />
and melted in the mouth, this 100% Cabernet has deep<br />
flavors of blackberries, currants and minerals. It’s delicious,<br />
yet the structure is soft yet weirdly acidic. Doesn’t<br />
seem like an ager. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.8% Price: $70<br />
86<br />
J Ludlow 2008 Jane (Santa Ynez Valley).<br />
A Bordeaux blend based on Merlot, this is a<br />
pretty good wine for drinking now. It’s soft and fruity,<br />
with cherry, mocha, spice and oak flavors. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.6% Price: $35<br />
86<br />
Perry Creek 2008 Altitude: 2401 Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (El Dorado). Fair Play-based<br />
Perry Creek’s Cab has high toned blue and red fruit and<br />
is tamely structured for being from high-elevation vineyards.<br />
Its finish is sweetly floral. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.3% Price: $25<br />
86<br />
Q 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma<br />
County). A standard Cabernet, dry and tannic.<br />
The best thing is the deep core of blackberry, currant,<br />
mineral and spice flavors. Drink now–2014. —S.H.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $14<br />
86<br />
Salvatore Principe 2010 Maestro Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (California). Rich, mountainous<br />
yet velvety, this affordable Cab offers boysenberry,<br />
blackberry and green pepper, and a whiff of<br />
baked bread. Perfect for filling people’s glasses up at a<br />
party. Best Buy. —V.B.<br />
abv: 12.5% Price: $10<br />
85<br />
Beringer 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Knights Valley). Tastes harsh and tannic,<br />
with extracted blackberry fruit that’s so ripe, it veers<br />
into sweet raisins. Pretty rustic, but gets the Cabernet<br />
job done. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $27<br />
85<br />
Coghlan 2009 Amethyst Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Santa Ynez Valley). Shows the difficulties<br />
of making Cabernet succeed in this Santa Barbara<br />
County inland valley. It’s awkward, with sweet blackberry<br />
and bell pepper flavors swamped with oak. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $54<br />
85<br />
Concannon 2007 Heritage Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Livermore Valley). There’s tobacco<br />
and chocolate throughout this highend Cab offering<br />
from Concannon. Maybe it’s the vintage, maybe it’s the<br />
time in bottle, but the wine’s complexity appears limited.<br />
—V.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $60<br />
85<br />
EOS 2009 French Connection (Paso Robles).<br />
Ripe and jammy, with blackberry, coffee,<br />
currant and cedar flavors, wrapped into firm tannins. It’s<br />
a bit rustic. The blend is Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot<br />
and Petit Verdot. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.4% Price: $25<br />
85<br />
Judd’s Hill 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Napa Valley). Direct and fruity, with blackberry<br />
and blueberry flavors, wrapped into rugged tannins.<br />
Finishes a little sweet. Drink over the next few<br />
years. —S.H.<br />
abv: NA Price: $45<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>Mag.com | 51
85<br />
One Hope 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(California). Very ripe and fruity, like the essence<br />
of blackberry and cherry jam in liquid form, with<br />
a sprinkle of anise, pepper, cocoa and cinnamon. Delicious,<br />
yes, but rather sweet and simple. Drink now.<br />
—S.H.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $19<br />
85<br />
Sebastiani 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Sonoma County). A sound Cabernet, fruitforward<br />
and somewhat one-dimensional, with cherry,<br />
blackberry and raspberry fruit. Oak adds sweet notes of<br />
caramel. —S.H.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $18<br />
85<br />
Stonegate 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Napa Valley). A solid effort, fruity in blackberries,<br />
currants and oak, with a smooth mouthfeel. Not<br />
especially complex, but a polished wine for drinking<br />
now. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.8% Price: $25<br />
84<br />
Summerland 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Paso Robles). A soft and simple Cabernet,<br />
with jammy blackberry, currant and sweet oak flavors.<br />
The finish is long and spicy. Drink up. —S.H.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $24<br />
84<br />
Tedeschi Family 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Napa Valley). Tastes tired, with dried<br />
out tannins framing blackberry and oak flavors. Interesting,<br />
but catch it now before it goes further downhill.<br />
—S.H.<br />
abv: NA Price: $58<br />
84<br />
Tedeschi Family 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Napa Valley). At the age of more than<br />
seven years, this wine is getting tired. It’s drying out and<br />
softening, with mellow tannins and raisiny flavors that<br />
testify to the heat of the vintage. Drink up. —S.H.<br />
abv: NA Price: $58<br />
83<br />
Castle Rock 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Paso Robles). Simple and dry, this Cabernet<br />
has modest blackberry, tea and oak flavors. With its<br />
firm tannins, it gets the basic Cabernet job done. —S.H.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $12<br />
82<br />
Pomar Junction 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Paso Robles). Soft, sweet and high in<br />
alcohol, with candied berry flavors and an unripe hint of<br />
vegetables. —S.H.<br />
abv: 15.2% Price: $34<br />
82<br />
Stonegate 2010 Collection Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (California). A hard wine to like.<br />
It’s o.k. for parties and such, but is pretty simple and<br />
sweet. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $16<br />
OTHER RED BLENDS<br />
94<br />
Bennett Lane 2008 Maximus (Napa Valley).<br />
This is one of the best red wines at this<br />
price in California. A Bordeaux blend with a splash of<br />
Syrah, it’s so rich and opulent, it just dazzles from start<br />
to finish. Floods the mouth with sweet cherries, rasp-<br />
52 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012<br />
berries, milk chocolate and red licorice, yet gets structure<br />
from firm tannins and bracing acidity. Lives up to<br />
its name, a Cabernet-based wine to feast on with your<br />
favorite foods. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $35<br />
93<br />
La Clarine Farm 2010 Piedi Grandi (Sierra<br />
Foothills). <strong>Wine</strong>maker Hank Beckmeyer<br />
goes where his vinous muses take him and this new wine<br />
of his is a perfect example of his “why not” attitude. It<br />
contains 56% Nebbiolo from the Sumu Kaw Vineyard<br />
as well as 30% Syrah from the same, 9% Mourvèdre,<br />
2.5% Viognier and 2.5% Roussanne. It’s jam-packed in a<br />
lilting way with fresh, bright strawberry and intense aromas<br />
of perfume and freshly picked herbs. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.2% Price: $22<br />
92<br />
Cedarville Vineyard 2009 Turnabout’s<br />
(Fair Play). Cedarville’s ode to Priorat, this is<br />
a mix of 45% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 25% Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon. The three get along swimmingly, amusingly<br />
mixing into a triad of dark blackberry, dark licorice and<br />
dark chocolate. The rich texture is on the mark, and the<br />
wine provides just the right heft for any spicy, brawny<br />
meal. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.9% Price: $39<br />
92<br />
Sebastiani 2008 Secolo (Sonoma County).<br />
Made mostly with Bordeaux varieties based<br />
on Cabernet Sauvignon, with a dash of Syrah, this is a<br />
fine wine. It’s dry, full-bodied and packed with blackberry,<br />
cassis, bacon and spice flavors, leading to a long,<br />
impressive finish. Give it a decant and enjoy as it warms<br />
in the glass. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.8% Price: $35<br />
90<br />
Cabot Vineyards 2007 Tributary (Humboldt<br />
County). A concoction of 66% Zinfandel,<br />
33% Syrah and 1% Viognier that’s thick in tannins,<br />
meat and dusty earth, or is it earthy dust? The black<br />
licorice is mighty memorable. —V.B.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $22<br />
88<br />
Borra 2009 Fusion (Lodi). Fusion blends<br />
79% Syrah, 15% Petite Sirah, 5% Zinfandel and<br />
1% Alicante Bouschet a delicious case in point. Gamy,<br />
with flavors of dark earth, thick blackberry jam and dark<br />
plum, it’s the tobacco kicker on the finish that’ll bring<br />
you back. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.9% Price: $19<br />
88<br />
Cabot Vineyards 2007 Confluence (Humboldt<br />
County). This blend of 50% Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon, 30% Syrah and 20% Merlot has a fruity nose,<br />
the Syrah’s leathery-ness is quite strong, surrounded by<br />
raspberry sweetness and red cherry from the Cab and<br />
Merlot. Although it’s been in bottle some time, the finish<br />
is grippy and strongly tobacco-infused. —V.B.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $25<br />
88<br />
Fazeli Cellars 2008 Yalda (Temecula Valley).<br />
For full review see page 9.<br />
abv: 14.3% Price: $48<br />
88<br />
Lola Kay 2010 Proprietary Red <strong>Wine</strong><br />
(Napa Valley). For full review see page 9.<br />
abv: 14.2% Price: $20<br />
88<br />
McCay Cellars 2008 Paisley (Lodi). Mc-<br />
Cay is a producer to watch in Lodi and this<br />
wine is a perfect example of why. A blend of four different<br />
Zinfandels and Petite Sirah, it opens with a nose<br />
of baked blackberry clafouti with a bit of hazelnut and<br />
almond, a still-tight wine that with air shows a ton of<br />
structure and layered tannins. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.8% Price: $24<br />
88<br />
Occasio 2009 Sotto Voce (Livermore Valley).<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>maker John Kinney blends 50% Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon from Galles Vineyard with 50% Del<br />
Arroyo Vineyard Petite Sirah, trying to take advantage<br />
of the Cab’s floral, herbal notes and the Petite’s concentration<br />
and wall of tannins. He has largely succeeded.<br />
This dark-black wine is very much full of intense cherry<br />
and structured tannins and leathery spice. Petite Sirah<br />
lovers will particularly swoon. —V.B.<br />
abv: 13.8% Price: $30<br />
88<br />
Paraduxx 2008 Blue Wing Teal (Napa Valley).<br />
This blend, which is mainly Zinfandel and<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon, is robust. It’s a trattoria or bistro<br />
wine, dry, tannic and spicy, with earthy flavors. Drink<br />
now with rich foods to tease out the berry fruit. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.6% Price: $48<br />
88<br />
Rodrigue Molyneaux 2009 Il Segreto Red<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> (Livermore Valley). A rich, earthy<br />
blend of half Barbera, half Zinfandel that tastes light at<br />
first, earthy with raspberry and cherry tones. On the finish,<br />
it gets darker, its spicy, dark fruit tones memorably<br />
bound in a wall of leather and tobacco. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.7% Price: $24<br />
88<br />
Ruby Hill <strong>Wine</strong>ry 2009 Grapeful Red<br />
(Livermore Valley). A miracle for Grateful<br />
Dead fans who have matured into wine, there’s lots to<br />
like in this red blend that’s got bright, friendly cherry<br />
fruit, a lick of spice and surprising sophistication. It’s<br />
medium in weight, with a shock of silky berry fruit on<br />
the finish. The blend is 60% Zinfandel, 23% Petite Sirah,<br />
11% Barbera and 6% Sangiovese. Pair it with mushroom<br />
pizza or burgers. Jerry would approve. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.8% Price: $15<br />
88<br />
Yorba 2007 Shake Ridge Red (Amador<br />
County). A dark, brooding showcase of many<br />
of Shake Ridge Vineyards’s finest varieties mixed into<br />
one inviting bottle. With 31% Syrah, 28% Primitivo,<br />
18% Petite Sirah, 10% Mourvèdre, 7% Malbec and 6%<br />
Merlot, this wine has baked plum and dark bright cherry<br />
predominantly, followed by a grip of tobacco and cinnamon<br />
spice. Have it with roasted meat and potatoes.<br />
—V.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $28<br />
87<br />
Borra NV Lot 09 47.5 Degree Limited Release<br />
(Lodi). Borra is going old-school here,<br />
making the wine nonvintage and putting 10% each of<br />
Syrah and Mourvedre into Petite Sirah. Smelling of<br />
freshly baked bread, the wine is full of structured red<br />
fruit, while its tannins are soft and finish is easygoing. A<br />
fine bottle for rustic fare. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $35
87<br />
Francis Ford Coppola 2009 Director’s<br />
Cut Cinema (Sonoma County). Made<br />
from Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc<br />
and Petite Sirah, it’s an easy drinking wine despite the<br />
firm tannins. Shows lush, ripe blackberry, black currant,<br />
raspberry, cola and spice flavors, with a dry finish. Ready<br />
now. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $32<br />
86<br />
Gnarly Head 2010 Authentic Red (Lodi).<br />
The easy-to-find Gnarly Head, a blend of 50%<br />
Zinfandel, 20% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10%<br />
Petite Sirah and 3% Syrah, is young and ready to drink.<br />
Its fruity nose and peppery spice tmakes it a full-blown<br />
crowd pleaser ready for backyard barbecues. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $12<br />
86<br />
Murrieta’s Well 2009 The Spur (Livermore<br />
Valley). Medium weight and easygoing,<br />
this blend of 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Malbec,<br />
11% Petit Verdot, 7% Cab Franc, 6% Petite Sirah and<br />
4% Merlot has modest tannins and cranberry flavors<br />
and will both please a crowd and pair with a wide range<br />
of foods. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $25<br />
85<br />
D’Anbino 2007 Quadraphonic (Paso Robles).<br />
Made from traditional Bordeaux varieties<br />
plus Syrah, this is a soft, simple, fruity wine. The<br />
raspberry, cherry, cola and spice flavors finish a bit<br />
sweet. Drink now. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.3% Price: $28<br />
85<br />
DC Flynt MW Selections 2009 First Timer<br />
(California). This is a softly delicious red wine.<br />
It’s strong and jammy in raspberries, cherries and milk<br />
chocolate, and is a little sweet, with a spicy finish. Nice<br />
barbecue wine. Mainly Zinfandel, with Petite Sirah, Petit<br />
Verdot and a few others. Best Buy.—S.H.<br />
abv: NA Price: $10<br />
84<br />
Colby Red 2010 Red (California). This<br />
blend of five varieties, including Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
and Zinfandel, is soft and sweet. Call it bistro<br />
style. It’s jammy in cherries, licorice and mocha. Proceeds<br />
from the wine’s sales go to heart disease research.<br />
—S.H.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $13<br />
84<br />
MICA Cellars 2009 CFM Jolon Vineyard<br />
(San Antonio Valley). A field blended red<br />
wine of 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Cabernet Franc<br />
and 33% Merlot. There’s red cherry and herbal stuff going<br />
on, but the wine also lacks texture and depth. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $30<br />
83<br />
Pomar Junction 2010 Brooster Fighting<br />
Red (Paso Robles). Too soft in structure, and<br />
sweet, too, like berry fruit concentrate. Fans of sweet,<br />
simple red wines will like this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon,<br />
Syrah and Zinfandel. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.3% Price: $18<br />
82<br />
D’Anbino 2007 Orchestration (Paso Robles).<br />
Soft, sweet, hot and underripe, with vegetal<br />
flavors. Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah.<br />
—S.H.<br />
abv: 14.8% Price: $28<br />
82<br />
Pomar Junction 2009 Train Wreck (Paso<br />
Robles). It’s soft and sweet and tastes like<br />
prune juice and crushed black pepper. The blend is<br />
based on Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah. —S.H.<br />
abv: 15.5% Price: $48<br />
MERLOT<br />
92<br />
Hunnicutt 2009 Merlot (Napa Valley).<br />
Grown in the cool Coombsville area, this fruitforward<br />
100% Merlot has considerable charm. Dominated<br />
by rich flavors of cherry tart, blueberries, anise<br />
and butterscotch, it’s a softly tannic wine to drink over<br />
the next few years. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $48<br />
91<br />
Rutherford Grove 2008 Estate Merlot<br />
(Rutherford). If you think you don’t like Merlot,<br />
try this one. It shows classic Napa Valley structure,<br />
with smooth, firm tannins and seductive flavors of sweet<br />
cherries, plums and currants. Delicious now with a good<br />
steak. —S.H.<br />
abv: 15.1% Price: $32<br />
90<br />
Black Box 2009 Merlot (California). Blended<br />
with a little Syrah, Petite Sirah and Sangiovese,<br />
this Merlot in a big box is clearly a terrific value.<br />
It’s so lush and delicious in berries and spices, it’s crazy<br />
that the price works out to $6.25 for a regular bottle.<br />
With production over 200,000 cases, it’s a testament to<br />
the art of blending. Best Buy. —S.H.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $25/3 L<br />
88<br />
Cakebread 2009 Merlot (Napa Valley).<br />
Smooth, sweet in fruit and easy to like. With its<br />
jammy flavors of blackberries and mocha, it’s delicious,<br />
although it would benefit from greater complexity and<br />
not so much reliance on sheer intensity and oak. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $54<br />
87<br />
Cabot Vineyards 2007 Merlot (Humboldt<br />
County). This is a confounding wine in many<br />
ways, one that could have easily scored higher, or scored<br />
lower. It starts with an almost alarming taste of vanilla<br />
and cherry coke and a slight bite of alcohol, but over<br />
time, got much more interesting. Finally, it turned<br />
earthy with pleasant hits of olive and caramel competing<br />
for dominance. —V.B.<br />
abv: 15.5% Price: $22<br />
87<br />
Darcie Kent Vineyards 2009 Crown Block<br />
Merlot (Livermore Valley). For full review<br />
see page 9.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $35<br />
87<br />
Middle Ridge 2008 Reserve Merlot (Temecula<br />
Valley). A light, easy-drinking Merlot<br />
that spent two months in new French oak and otherwise<br />
speaks of dark plums and earth. Some bottle variation;<br />
two bottles tasted. —V.B.<br />
abv: 13.2% Price: $42<br />
87<br />
Oberon 2009 Merlot (Napa Valley). A<br />
sound, likeable Merlot, whose fruity richness,<br />
soft tannins and relatively modest price make it a good<br />
buy. It’s forward in blackberry jam, cassis, red licorice<br />
and smoky oak flavors. —S.H.<br />
abv: 13.7% Price: $22<br />
86<br />
Amizetta 2009 Terraced Hillside Estate<br />
Merlot (Napa Valley). Rugged in the mouth,<br />
with edgy tannins, this Merlot also features ripe berrycherry<br />
fruit that seems a little sweet. Ready to drink<br />
now. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $35<br />
86<br />
Hannah Nicole Vineyards 2009 Merlot<br />
(Contra Costa County). Hannah Nicole’s<br />
Merlot is one of its better wines, tasting of red plum and<br />
vanilla-laced toasted oak, its tannins grippy, with plenty<br />
of dried herb flavors in the background. Smooth and<br />
big. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $24<br />
86<br />
Raymond 2008 Reserve Selection Merlot<br />
(Napa Valley). This is a good Merlot for the<br />
price, showing black cherry, prune, unsweetened chocolate<br />
and herb flavors, wrapped into smooth but firm<br />
tannins. Production is 6,000 cases. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $23<br />
86<br />
Yorkville Cellars 2009 Rennie Vineyard<br />
Merlot (Yorkville Highlands). Made from<br />
organic grapes, Yorkville’s light-bodied Merlot is dry<br />
and herbal, with cedar in spades rounded out by elegant<br />
plum and chocolate softness. This vintage has 10%<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon as well, and would match well with<br />
lighter meats, like chicken. —V.B.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $25<br />
85<br />
Brass Tacks 2009 Merlot (Central Coast).<br />
An inexpensive Merlot that’s herbal. It also<br />
shows cranberry and menthol amid a light toasting of<br />
oak. —V.B.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $15<br />
85<br />
Stonegate 2010 Collection Merlot (California).<br />
This is a simple, fruity wine whose<br />
berry and spice flavors have some appeal. It’s soft and<br />
sweet. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $16<br />
84<br />
Burgess 2008 Triere Estate Vineyard Merlot<br />
(Napa Valley). Made from 100% Merlot<br />
grown in Yountville, this is a lean, unforgiving wine. It’s<br />
bone dry and tannic, with modest cherry fruit. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.4% Price: $28<br />
84<br />
Darcie Kent Vineyards 2008 Picazo Vineyard<br />
Merlot (Livermore Valley). Not as<br />
good as Darcie Kent’s Crown Block Merlot, this one is<br />
smooth, with big-shouldered tannins. It tastes of raisin<br />
toast, dried plums and tobacco, with menthol darting in<br />
and out along the edges. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $24<br />
84<br />
Sarah’s Vineyard 2007 Merlot (Santa<br />
Cruz Mountains). They held this wine back<br />
nearly five years before releasing it, but it’s still fiercely<br />
tannic. That’s the main problem, and to judge by the<br />
fruit, which is entering a mature phase, the wine’s future<br />
is in doubt. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.8% Price: $25<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>Mag.com | 53
82<br />
Pomar Junction 2008 Merlot (Paso Robles).<br />
Tastes like fruit-based syrup, with cherry<br />
and spice flavors. Lacks vivacity. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.9% Price: $28<br />
PINOT NOIR<br />
98<br />
Merry Edwards 2009 Klopp Ranch Pinot<br />
Noir (Russian River Valley). Amazingly<br />
rich, offering deep, complex layers of cherries, black<br />
raspberries, cola, anise biscotti, pomegranates, persimmons,<br />
black tea, orange zest, mushrooms, you name<br />
it, but don’t forget the spices, everything from cloves<br />
and black pepper to cinnamon. Utterly delicious, with a<br />
silky, briskly clean mouthfeel. But the tannins are pronounced.<br />
They’re not so strong as to lock the wine down,<br />
but do suggest time in the cellar. Give it four years, and<br />
it could be wonderful after 10 or more. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.4% Price: $57<br />
96<br />
Marimar Estate 2008 La Masía Don<br />
Miguel Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River<br />
Valley). For full review see page 3.<br />
abv: 14.7% Price: $39<br />
96<br />
Merry Edwards 2009 Meredith Estate Pinot<br />
Noir (Russian River Valley). Here’s a<br />
Pinot to put into your cellar. That’s if you can keep from<br />
opening it now and savoring the deep, spicy flavors that<br />
are so captivating. Offers up layers of cherries, cola,<br />
pomegranates, mushrooms, Indian spices and minerals,<br />
not to mention a deft touch of sweet, smoky oak. Wonderful<br />
tannins and brisk acidity provide balancing structure<br />
to the richness. The finish is long. Drink anytime<br />
from now through 2017. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.4% Price: $57<br />
95<br />
Longoria 2009 Fe Ciega Vineyard Pinot<br />
Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). For full review see page<br />
3. Cellar Selection.<br />
abv: 14.2% Price: $48<br />
95<br />
Merry Edwards 2009 Flax Vineyard Pinot<br />
Noir (Russian River Valley). A distinguished<br />
Pinot Noir, notable for its pure, refined structure. Although<br />
it’s entirely dry, the cherry, licorice and pomegranate<br />
flavors are so rich, the wine tastes sweet. The<br />
earthiness of the soil shows up in a taste of sautéed wild<br />
mushrooms, splashed with balsamic. A brilliant wine,<br />
capable of aging for a decade. Perfect with roast lamb.<br />
—S.H.<br />
abv: 14.4% Price: $54<br />
94<br />
Armanino Family Cellars 2010 Amber<br />
Ridge Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley).<br />
Armanino’s 2010 shows a welcome return to form after<br />
the 2009. Indeed, it’s more like the ’08, vastly rich<br />
in raspberry and cherry compote, gingersnap cookie,<br />
sweet, caramelized oak and exotic spice flavors. Feels<br />
like pure silk and satin in the mouth, making it perfect<br />
for drinking now. —S.H.<br />
abv: 15.1% Price: $55<br />
94<br />
Chronicle 2009 Cerise Vineyard Pinot<br />
Noir (Anderson Valley). For full review see<br />
page 3. Cellar Selection.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $60<br />
54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012<br />
94<br />
Chronicle 2009 Savoy Vineyard Pinot<br />
Noir (Anderson Valley). The grapes obviously<br />
were well grown, as this wine shows a particular<br />
intensity of red cherry fruit, as well as minerality. The<br />
acidity is just about perfect, the tannins brisk and fine.<br />
Yet it’s too young to offer full enjoyment. Cellar this polished<br />
Pinot Noir for 4–6 years to let it change in interesting<br />
ways. Cellar Selection. —S.H.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $60<br />
94<br />
Coghlan 2009 Diopside Pinot Noir (Sta.<br />
Rita Hills). For full review see page 4. Cellar<br />
Selection.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $40<br />
94<br />
Kazmer & Blaise 2009 Primo’s Hill Pinot<br />
Noir (Carneros). A terrific Pinot Noir, from a<br />
winery compiling a serious track record. Grown on the<br />
Napa side of Carneros, the wine shows classic Primo’s<br />
Hill character, with the blackberry pie, cola, mushu<br />
plum and sandalwood flavors accented by a little more<br />
acidity than usual. Defined by elegance and complexity,<br />
it’s an ager, although it’s beautiful now right out of<br />
the bottle. Should easily develop through 2015. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.4% Price: $50<br />
94<br />
Merry Edwards 2009 Pinot Noir (Sonoma<br />
Coast). Made from eight vineyards located<br />
throughout this sprawling appellation, this wine<br />
showcases the art of the blend, and is an extraordinary<br />
achievement for its sheer opulence. Offers wave after<br />
wave of Pinot flavor, with superb tannins and mouthwatering<br />
acidity. The fact that this is Merry Edwards’s least<br />
expensive Pinot Noir is amazing and makes it a special<br />
buy. Production was 2,370 cases. Editors’ Choice.<br />
—S.H.<br />
abv: 14.2% Price: $36<br />
94<br />
Native 9 2009 Rancho Ontiveros Vineyards<br />
Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). For<br />
full review see page 4.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $64<br />
94<br />
Pessagno 2009 Four Boys Vineyard Pinot<br />
Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). You<br />
know you’re dealing with a great Pinot Noir when it’s<br />
this delicious right out of the bottle, yet will age. This<br />
wine is enormously rich and sweet in cherries, blackberries,<br />
blueberries and cola, a wine that almost everyone<br />
will find delicious. Yet with thick tannins and brisk acidity,<br />
it has the protective structure to evolve over at least<br />
six years, and possibly longer. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.9% Price: $55<br />
94<br />
Rusack 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir (Sta.<br />
Rita Hills). Who wouldn’t love this Pinot Noir?<br />
It’s zippy in acidity and ripe in briary raspberry and<br />
cherry fruit, with spicy, smoky oak complexity. Really<br />
defines the luxurious silkiness of the appellation. The<br />
grapes are mostly from the Fiddlestix Vineyard, with<br />
the balance hailing from Rio Vista Vineyard. Drink now-<br />
2015. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.3% Price: $40<br />
94<br />
Samsara 2009 Kessler-Haak Vineyard<br />
Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Just wonderful,<br />
showing the great richness and complexity of a top<br />
Santa Rita Pinot Noir. Partial whole-cluster fermentation<br />
gives the wine a spicy earthiness and full-bodied<br />
tannins, yet the underlying red berry and cherry fruit<br />
shines through. Showing well now and over the next six<br />
years. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.4% Price: $46<br />
93<br />
Gundlach Bundschu 2009 Heritage<br />
Selection Estate Pinot Noir (Sonoma<br />
Coast). For full review see page 4.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $48<br />
93<br />
Marimar Estate 2008 Earthquake Block<br />
Don Miguel Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian<br />
River Valley). For full review see page 4.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $47<br />
93<br />
Marimar Estate 2008 Stony Block Don<br />
Miguel Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River<br />
Valley). For full review see page 5.<br />
abv: 14.7% Price: $47<br />
93<br />
Melville 2010 Verna’s Estate Pinot Noir<br />
(Santa Barbara County). Ripeness marks<br />
this Pinot. It floods the mouth with jammy raspberries<br />
and cherries, brightened with acidity. Seems a bit<br />
straightforward by virtue of sheer dazzle, but it is a superb<br />
example of the Santa Rita Hills, at a good price.<br />
Editors’ Choice. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $26<br />
93<br />
Merry Edwards 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian<br />
River Valley). Merry Edwards doesn’t just<br />
slap this regional blend together. This is a combination<br />
of her best vineyards. It’s a wonderful wine, dry, balanced<br />
and deep in berry, spice, cola and earthy flavors.<br />
In many ways, it’s the consummate Russian River Valley<br />
Pinot Noir. Drink now–2015. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.3% Price: $42<br />
93<br />
Morgan 2009 Garys’ Vineyard Pinot Noir<br />
(Santa Lucia Highlands). Morgan’s Pinot<br />
Noirs tend to be dark, full-bodied and dense. They’re<br />
not for fans of a more delicate interpretation, but winemaker<br />
Dan Lee is a master of the big California style.<br />
This ’09, from one of the most famous vineyards in the<br />
Highlands, certainly has heft, packed as it is with cherries,<br />
plums, dark chocolate and exotic spices. It’s very<br />
dry, and will pair well with rich dishes such as lamb and<br />
steak. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.3% Price: $50<br />
93<br />
Samsara 2009 Melville Vineyard Pinot<br />
Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). There’s a barnyardy<br />
funkiness to this Pinot Noir that is frankly fascinating.<br />
Call it Burgundian, but it’s emphatically Californian in<br />
the richness of raspberries and cherries, with their jammy<br />
sweet finish. Earthy tannins and brisk acidity guarantee<br />
that this wine will age well through 2016. Cellar<br />
Selection. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $48<br />
93<br />
Samsara 2009 Rancho La Vina Vineyard<br />
Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Ripe and complex,<br />
offering a wealth of cranberry, cherry, cola and<br />
pomegranate fruit flavors, spiced with clove and cinnamon.<br />
Silky and tart now, with some furry tannins. Just
lovely, but should develop over the next 6–8 years. Cellar<br />
Selection. —S.H.<br />
abv: 13.3% Price: $46<br />
93<br />
Samsara 2009 Turner Vineyard Pinot Noir<br />
(Sta. Rita Hills). In youth, this Pinot Noir is<br />
brisk and appealing for its array of raspberry, cherry and<br />
cola fruit. Delicious as it is, it really needs time in the<br />
cellar to let the parts, including hefty tannins, resolve<br />
and come together. Best after 2015. Cellar Selection.<br />
—S.H.<br />
abv: 14.2% Price: $42<br />
93<br />
Summerland 2008 Fiddlestix Vineyard Pinot<br />
Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). What a pretty, polished<br />
Pinot for drinking now. It shows its pedigree in<br />
the silky mouthfeel, brisk acidity and powerful flavors<br />
of persimmons, red plums, cola and dusty exotic spices.<br />
You can taste the briny minerals of this cool coastal appellation,<br />
making it a real wine of terroir. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $50<br />
92<br />
Bailiwick 2009 Borderline Pinot Noir<br />
(Marin County). So savory and easy to like,<br />
you might miss the complexity, but it’s there. Offers<br />
flashy raspberry and cherry pie, red plum, pie spice and<br />
sandalwood flavors, packed into firm but gentle tannins,<br />
and brightened with crisp acidity. The finish is entirely<br />
dry despite all the sweet fruit. Really defines the modern<br />
coastal California style, even if there’s no particular<br />
Marin County signature. —S.H.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $34<br />
92<br />
Bailiwick 2009 Silver Pines Vineyard Pinot<br />
Noir (Sonoma Mountain). Tight and<br />
brittle now, with acidity and dryness starring. The thing<br />
to understand about this Pinot is that it’s quite modest<br />
in alcohol and understated in flavor, showing rhubarb,<br />
pomegranate and cherry Lifesaver flavors with a minerally<br />
edge. Elegant now, it should develop over the next<br />
six years. Cellar Selection. —S.H.<br />
abv: 13.7% Price: $44<br />
92<br />
John Tyler 2008 Bacigalupi Vineyard Pinot<br />
Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review<br />
see page 6.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $45<br />
92<br />
Mistress 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara<br />
County). There’s an earthy note of cola that<br />
grounds the ripe cherry and pomegranate fruit, giving it<br />
depth and complexity. Made from one of the vineyards<br />
closest to the coast, this wine provides plenty of Pinot<br />
character. Thick tannins and vital acidity suggest aging<br />
until at least 2013. Cellar Selection. —S.H.<br />
abv: NA Price: $42<br />
92<br />
Pessagno 2009 Idyll Times Vineyard Pinot<br />
Noir (San Benito County). San Benito<br />
County is just north of Monterey, and subject to similar<br />
coastal influence. This Pinot shows the cool climate in<br />
its zesty acidity and firm tannins, as well as the dryness<br />
that accompanies the fruit. Those flavors include cherries,<br />
cola and pomegranates. It’s a complex wine that<br />
will do interesting things over the next six years. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.8% Price: $40<br />
92<br />
Summerland 2008 Solomon Hills Vineyard<br />
Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). With<br />
a translucent ruby color and a light, silky body, this Pinot<br />
captivates for its ethereal mouthfeel. But there’s<br />
nothing light about the flavors, which are cherries, cola,<br />
pomegranates, bacon and the sweet, spicy vanilla of<br />
toasted oak. It is, in a word, delicious. Seems at its best<br />
now. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $45<br />
91<br />
Bailiwick 2009 Michaud Vineyard Pinot<br />
Noir (Chalone). A dry, tannic young Pinot<br />
Noir. It’s not a big, gushy wine, but comes down more<br />
on the elegant side, with low alcohol and an earthiness<br />
to the cherry and cola fruit. You want to age it for at<br />
least five years, to let it show its stuff. Cellar Selection.<br />
—S.H.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $44<br />
91<br />
Garnet 2010 Rodgers Creek Vineyard Pinot<br />
Noir (Sonoma Coast). This vineyard has<br />
been source to wildly variable Pinot Noirs, but Garnet,<br />
which is now a brand from B.R. Cohn, has succeeded<br />
in wresting a fine Pinot Noir. It shows the dry silkiness<br />
and acidity you want from a coastal Pinot, with elaborate,<br />
oak-influenced cherry, cola and pomegranate flavors<br />
that finish dry and spicy. Enjoy it over the next five<br />
years. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $30<br />
91<br />
Melville 2010 Estate Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita<br />
Hills). Rich and ripe in berry jam and spice flavors,<br />
this Pinot is enjoyable now for its silky texture and<br />
bright acidity. At the same time, it should develop bottle<br />
notes over the next six years. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $32<br />
91<br />
Pessagno 2009 Lucia Highlands Vineyard<br />
Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands).<br />
For the price, this is one of the best Santa Lucia Highlands<br />
Pinots of the vintage. Just a lovely wine to drink<br />
now, showing fine dryness, acidity and silkiness. The flavors<br />
are of rose hip tea, cola, sour cherry candy, toasty<br />
oak, tobacco and exotic spices. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.7% Price: $28<br />
91<br />
Rodney Strong 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir<br />
(Russian River Valley). For full review see<br />
page 7.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $40<br />
90<br />
Bailiwick 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian River<br />
Valley). Defines Russian River Valley Pinot<br />
Noir in the dryness, silkiness and full-bodied richness,<br />
with flavors of cherries, pomegranates, raspberries<br />
and slightly underripe persimmons. This complex wine<br />
grows better as it warms in the glass. Drink over the<br />
next 2–3 years. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.2% Price: $36<br />
90<br />
Blessing 2009 Split Rock Vineyard Pinot<br />
Noir (Sonoma Coast). Shows the silky dryness<br />
and elegance you want in a Pinot Noir, with brisk<br />
acidity framing sour cherry, pomegranate and persimmon<br />
fruit flavors. Really grows on you as it sits in the<br />
glass, warming up and developing complexity. The vine-<br />
yard has been quite a successful source of grapes to several<br />
wineries, including Blessing. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.3% Price: $40<br />
90<br />
Foursight 2009 Charles Vineyard Clone<br />
5 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). Shows the<br />
strong acidity of Foursight’s new Pinot Noirs, but also<br />
considerable deepth and lushness. Once the mouth adjusts<br />
to the acids, it’s able to appreciate waves of cherries,<br />
blackberries, currants and cola, while 50% new oak<br />
adds rich notes of smoke and burnt butter. A lovely, dry<br />
and impressive wine, fine now with an hour or two in<br />
the decanter. —S.H.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $49<br />
90<br />
Gundlach Bundschu 2009 Estate Vineyard<br />
Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full<br />
review see page 8.<br />
abv: 14.4% Price: $34<br />
90<br />
Longoria 2010 Lovely Rita Pinot Noir<br />
(Sta. Rita Hills). This low production blend of<br />
Longoria’s estate Fe Ciega Vineyard and Bien Nacido<br />
Vineyard seems to be comprised of grapes that didn’t<br />
make the winery’s highest cut. It’s quite a nice wine, dry,<br />
brisk and pure in cherries, cola, spices and sandalwood,<br />
but it doesn’t seem like an ager, so enjoy now. —S.H.<br />
abv: 13.8% Price: $32<br />
90<br />
Rusack 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley).<br />
A nice evocation of Santa Maria Valley Pinot<br />
Noir, showing rich raspberry, cherry, persimmon<br />
and crushed dark spice flavors, framed in a silky texture.<br />
Produced from the Solomon Hills and Sierra Madre<br />
vineyards. Now–2016. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.3% Price: $36<br />
90<br />
Rusack 2009 Solomon Hills Vineyard Pinot<br />
Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Here’s a deliciously<br />
ripe, forward Pinot. It’s made in an accessible<br />
style, with flashy raspberry, strawberry and oak flavors.<br />
Yet it exhibits classic Pinot elegance. Could turn into<br />
something special in 6–7 years, if you’re a gambler.<br />
—S.H.<br />
abv: 14.2% Price: $45<br />
89<br />
Coghlan 2009 La Encantada Sapphire Pinot<br />
Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Distinctly Californian<br />
in style, this is a soft, big, fruity Pinot Noir, packed<br />
with cherry, berry, cola and spice flavors that sink deep<br />
into the palate and last long on the finish. It’s certainly<br />
rich, but lacks some finesse and elegance. Drink now.<br />
—S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $47<br />
89<br />
Coghlan 2009 Rio Vista Vineyard 115 Pinot<br />
Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). A bit of an outlier<br />
for Pinot Noir, with a green, minty streak that cuts right<br />
through the cherries and pomegranates. With it comes<br />
stimulating acidity, but you have to wonder about the<br />
wine’s long-term prospects. Drink soon. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.9% Price: $37<br />
89<br />
Cutruzzola 2009 Gloria Pinot Noir (San<br />
Luis Obispo County). Very rich and flamboyant,<br />
this could only have grown in a New World climate.<br />
In fact it’s from a coastal vineyard. Ripe and expressive<br />
in raspberries, cherries, sandalwood and spices, the<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>Mag.com | 55
ichness is balanced with crisp acidity. Drink over the<br />
next three years for freshness. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $40<br />
89<br />
Samsara 2010 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills).<br />
The raspberry, cherry and vanilla flavors of this<br />
Pinot Noir taste sweet, giving it a delicious pie-filling<br />
richness. Crisp acidity fortunately provides balancing<br />
structure. It’s a flashy young wine for drinking over the<br />
next five years. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $30<br />
88<br />
Foursight 2009 Charles Vineyard Pinot<br />
Noir (Anderson Valley). Acidity marks this<br />
wine, making it sharp in the mouth, while some greenness<br />
gives it a flavor of mint jelly. Nonetheless, there’s<br />
some fancy cherry and raspberry fruit. A fragile wine<br />
that seems at its best now, so drink soon. —S.H.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $46<br />
88<br />
J. Wilkes 2007 Solomon Hills Vineyard<br />
Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Shows<br />
jammy but somewhat simple cherry candy and mint flavors,<br />
the kind that come from young vines. Plenty of tart<br />
acidity scours the mouth, creating balance to the fruit.<br />
Ultimately, this is a Pinot Noir for drinking soon. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $42<br />
88<br />
Ketcham Estate 2009 Ketcham Vineyard<br />
Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Lots of<br />
ripe, spicy fruit in this Pinot, marked by waves of black<br />
cherries, Dr. Pepper cola, plums, tobacco and sandalwood.<br />
It’s brisk in acidity, a wine that gets the tastebuds<br />
whistling. Seems at its best now, so drink up. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $48<br />
88<br />
Summerland 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara<br />
County). Summerland’s new crop of Pinot<br />
Noirs is quite good, and while this is their least expensive<br />
and lightest, it shows their signature. Crisp and<br />
silky, its cherry, spice and sandalwood flavors make for<br />
nice drinking now. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $24<br />
87<br />
Foursight 2009 Charles Vineyard Zero<br />
New Oak Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley).<br />
Brisk in acidity and bone dry, this Pinot is elegant, although<br />
it falls short on opulence. The flavors are of sour<br />
cherry candy and cola. —S.H.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $38<br />
87<br />
Fritz 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley).<br />
For some reason, Fritz held this wine back<br />
eight months later than their very fine 2009 Reserve<br />
Pinot. It’s a solid wine, silky and pure, but it’s a little too<br />
sweet in raspberries and cherries, like a granola candy<br />
bar. —S.H.<br />
abv: NA Price: $30<br />
87<br />
Ketcham Estate 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian<br />
River Valley). A little rugged around the edges,<br />
with jagged tannins that emphasize the acidity. But<br />
it’s dry and balanced, and you’ll find ripe flavors of cherries,<br />
pomegranates, red licorice and toast. Drink now.<br />
—S.H.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $38<br />
56 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012<br />
87<br />
Manzoni 2010 Home Vineyard Pinot Noir<br />
(Santa Lucia Highlands). A big wine, ripe<br />
and explosive in fruit. Maybe too fruity, almost a bomb.<br />
Raspberries and cherries, sweetened with oak, dominate.<br />
Could use greater subtlety and restraint, not to<br />
mention grounding earthiness. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.2% Price: $26<br />
87<br />
One Hope 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir<br />
(Carneros). A little heavy for Pinot Noir. Almost<br />
like Grenache, with deliciously sweet, full-bodied<br />
flavors of cherry compote and raspberry tart, sprinkled<br />
with powdered sugar and cinnamon. Give it a good decant<br />
and drink now. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $40<br />
87<br />
Pessagno 2009 Central Avenue Vineyard<br />
Pinot Noir (Monterey). A nice Pinot Noir to<br />
drink now. It’s bone dry and somewhat austere, showing<br />
only modest cherry, pomegranate and cola flavors<br />
that are marked by rich tannins and zesty acidity. But it’s<br />
very elegant. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.4% Price: $21<br />
87<br />
Summerland 2009 Bien Nacido Vineyard<br />
Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). This tight,<br />
brittle Pinot Noir isn’t giving much pleasure now. It’s<br />
distinguished in structure, with a fine, silky mouthfeel,<br />
brisk acidity and a pleasurable dusting of tannins. But<br />
it’s a bit short on fruit. Give it a good airing and drink<br />
now. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $45<br />
86<br />
Leese-Fitch 2009 Pinot Noir (California).<br />
A little on the soft side, with candied raspberry,<br />
cherry and cola flavors, but at this price, it’s a decent<br />
starter Pinot Noir for those who are curious about this<br />
red-hot variety but don’t want to spend a bundle. Enjoy<br />
the silkiness and spice. —S.H.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $13<br />
86<br />
MacRostie 2008 Wildcat Mountain Vineyard<br />
Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). There’s<br />
something off in the aroma, which is herbal and peppery.<br />
Turns richer once you take a sip, with pleasantly<br />
dry, crisp cherry candy, white pepper and oak flavors.<br />
The vineyard is in a cool site, and it tastes like the grapes<br />
were not fully ripe. A disappointment after so many<br />
great bottlings from MacRostie. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.2% Price: $40<br />
86<br />
Mario Perelli-Minetti 2008 Pinot Noir (Sonoma<br />
Coast). With a nice, silky texture and<br />
flavors of cherries, pomegranates and cola, this Pinot<br />
has plenty to like. It loses a few points, though, for unripeness<br />
that mutes the fruit and makes the finish sharp.<br />
—S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $31<br />
86<br />
Sebastiani 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma<br />
Coast). Light bodied and modest in flavor,<br />
with lots of acidity. You find yourself wishing there was<br />
more in the way of fruit. Still, it’s pretty good for the<br />
price, with a nice, silky texture. —S.H.<br />
abv: 13.8% Price: $18<br />
86<br />
Whetstone 2008 Bella Vigna Vineyard Pinot<br />
Noir (Sonoma Coast). Big and ponder-<br />
ous for a Pinot Noir, almost like Grenache, it’s so fullbodied<br />
and rich in cherries, mocha, anise and spices.<br />
Delicious in its way, but lacks Pinot finesse and subtlety.<br />
Drink up. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $65<br />
85<br />
Forenzo 2010 Pinot Noir (Russian River<br />
Valley). Soft, simple and fruity, but with its<br />
silky texture and rich raspberry and cherry fruit and<br />
spice flavors, it’s pretty good for the price, showing authentic<br />
Pinot character. —S.H.<br />
abv: 15.5% Price: $15<br />
85<br />
Francis Ford Coppola 2010 Votre Santé<br />
Pinot Noir (California). A rather ordinary<br />
wine, dry and tart in acids, with modest cherry, tea and<br />
clove flavors, plus a little unripeness. —S.H.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $14<br />
85<br />
Summerland 2010 Vintners Select Pinot<br />
Noir (Santa Barbara County). Heavy and<br />
dull, with a soft texture framing cherry, berry and spice<br />
flavors. Pinot’s famously silky texture is there, but the<br />
wine isn’t offering much else. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $35<br />
83<br />
Castle Rock 2010 California Cuvée Pinot<br />
Noir (California). Pretty ordinary stuff,<br />
although it does communicate Pinot’s basic message of<br />
dryness and silkiness. Shows modest cherry and spice<br />
flavors. —S.H.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $12<br />
SYRAH/SHIRAZ<br />
93<br />
Blair Fox 2009 THompson Vineyard Syrah<br />
(Santa Barbara County). Richness defines<br />
this ripe Syrah. It dazzles with blackberry and<br />
cherry jam, dark chocolate and exotic spice flavors,<br />
while firm tannins provide supportive structure. Oak<br />
adds additional tannins and a smoky, toasty coat. Drink<br />
now and through 2015. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.3% Price: $42<br />
93<br />
Samsara 2009 Melville Vineyard Syrah<br />
(Sta. Rita Hills). Rich, extracted and dramatic,<br />
dazzling in blackberry, currant, anise and smoky aromas<br />
and flavors. It’s a big, tannic, flamboyant young wine,<br />
just at the start of its journey. Will hold well through<br />
2015 and possibly beyond. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.9% Price: $40<br />
92<br />
Fess Parker 2009 Rodney’s Vineyard<br />
Syrah (Santa Barbara County). For full review<br />
see page 5.<br />
abv: 15.7% Price: $49<br />
92<br />
Melville 2010 Verna’s Estate Syrah (Santa<br />
Barbara County). This fruity Syrah is rich<br />
in cherries, raspberries, white chocolate and spices. Syrah<br />
hardly gets more flamboyant. And yet its structure is<br />
firm and pleasant. Drink now–2016. —S.H.<br />
abv: NA Price: $26<br />
92<br />
Rusack 2009 Ballard Canyon Estate Reserve<br />
Syrah (Santa Barbara County). This<br />
rich Syrah leaves little to the imagination. It’s dramatic
in blackberry and cherry fruit and exotic spices, sweetened<br />
with new oak. Delicious now and for the next few<br />
years. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $36<br />
91<br />
Pessagno 2009 Manzoni Estate Vineyard<br />
Syrah (Santa Lucia Highlands). What a<br />
nice Syrah for drinking now. It shows that firm structure<br />
of Highlands reds, with fine acidity and dusty tannins,<br />
and is rich in blackberry, currant, licorice, bacon, black<br />
pepper and cedar flavors. Too bad more Syrahs aren’t<br />
this good. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.6% Price: $35<br />
90<br />
Novy 2009 Syrah (Santa Lucia Highlands).<br />
Robust and fruity, this big Syrah floods<br />
the mouth with blackberries, currants, bacon and black<br />
pepper. It’s a delicious wine, wrapped into firm tannins,<br />
and ideal with a nice charbroiled steak, with salt and<br />
pepper to echo the wine’s spices. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.2% Price: $27<br />
90<br />
Samsara 2009 Turner Vineyard Syrah<br />
(Sta. Rita Hills). Lots of flashy blackberry and<br />
blueberry fruit in this rather forward Syrah. It’s also<br />
quite tannic and spicy, the result of 100% whole cluster<br />
fermentation. With its fairly high alcohol, it has a<br />
mouth-warming fullness. Drink now. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.9% Price: $40<br />
89<br />
Blair Fox 2009 Fox Family Vineyard Syrah<br />
(Santa Barbara County). This is a rich, ripe<br />
Syrah, with deep, long-lasting chocolate, blackberry jam<br />
and oak flavors. Impresses for its sheer razzle dazzle.<br />
Probably best over the next few years. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.7% Price: $45<br />
89<br />
Cakebread 2009 Syrah (Napa Valley).<br />
Made from Carneros-grown grapes, this Syrah<br />
strikes the palate as rather candied in blackberries and<br />
cherries. It’s smooth in the mouth, and the oak brings a<br />
pretty layer of smoky cedar. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $55<br />
89<br />
Q 2010 Syrah (Sonoma County). For full<br />
review see page 10. Best Buy.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $12<br />
88<br />
Dogwood 2008 Syrah (Dry Creek Valley).<br />
This is a dry, robust Syrah, packed with blackberry,<br />
blueberry, anise, bacon and pepper flavors, and<br />
wrapped into sturdy tannins. Give it a decant, and drink<br />
with game or Mexican beef dishes. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $30<br />
88<br />
Samsara 2009 Verna’s Vineyard Syrah<br />
(Santa Barbara County). This Syrah is remarkably<br />
ripe in blackberry, blueberry and cherry fruit,<br />
with a bite of acidity. It feels fine and vital in the mouth.<br />
Give it a brief decant. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.4% Price: $32<br />
88<br />
Whetstone 2008 Phoenix Ranch Syrah<br />
(Russian River Valley). A fine Syrah, dry<br />
and rich in blackberry, currant, dark chocolate, grilled<br />
meat, spice and cedar flavors. It’s pretty firm in tannins<br />
and acids, though, making it hard and chewy. Difficult<br />
to predict its future, but an educated guess suggests it’s<br />
not an ager. —S.H.<br />
abv: 15.7% Price: $55<br />
87<br />
Black Box 2009 Shiraz (California). Robust,<br />
peppery, dry and fruity, just what an inexpensive<br />
Shiraz should be. Easy to like for its array of<br />
blackberries, spices and cedar. A great value in a barbecue-style<br />
wine. Best Buy. —S.H.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $25/3 L<br />
86<br />
Manzoni 2009 Home Vineyard Syrah<br />
(Santa Lucia Highlands). Huge flavors of<br />
jammy blackberries and cherries dominate this Syrah,<br />
with a coating of sweet, caramelized oak. It’s yummy,<br />
but not especially complex. Drink now. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.2% Price: $26<br />
83<br />
Radar 2009 Syrah (California). Thick, soft<br />
and sweetly extracted in blackberries and licorice,<br />
this Syrah can best be described as rustic. It’s not<br />
bad, just simple. —S.H.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $15<br />
PETITE SIRAH<br />
93<br />
Rutherford Grove 2008 Spring Creek<br />
Vineyard Petite Sirah (Napa Valley).<br />
Here’s a big, thick, tannic, ripe wine, impressive for its<br />
sheer power and fruit. In other words, it’s classic Petite<br />
Sirah. The flavors are just wild, suggesting blackberries,<br />
plums, bacon, orange tea and exotic spices. Absolutely<br />
delicious, with classic Napa balance. Shows why Petite<br />
Sirah has such momentum. Will age easily for at least a<br />
decade. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $37<br />
92<br />
Madrigal 2008 Barberis Family Reserve<br />
Petite Sirah (Napa Valley). This is one of<br />
those Petite Sirahs that will benefit from a little time in<br />
the cellar. Even though it’s made in the modern style,<br />
with softer, sweeter tannins than the variety has shown<br />
the past, it’s still a bruiser. Yet with a gigantic core of<br />
blackberries, blueberries and chocolate, it should negotiate<br />
the next 5–6 years easily. Cellar Selection. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.6% Price: $65<br />
90<br />
Jacob Franklin 2009 Hayne Vineyard<br />
Petite Sirah (Napa Valley). The vineyard,<br />
which is in St. Helena, certainly yielded grapes that<br />
were ripe, to judge by this wine’s flavors. It’s gigantic in<br />
berries, cherries, mocha and spices that are jammy and<br />
sweet. The best thing about it are the tannins, which are<br />
smooth and complex. Give this flashy young Petite Sirah<br />
a couple years to integrate and mellow. Cellar Selection.<br />
—S.H.<br />
abv: 14.2% Price: $65<br />
90<br />
Jaffurs 2010 Thompson Vineyard Petite<br />
Sirah (Santa Barbara County). Rich, ripe<br />
and oaky, this Petite Sirah charms with flashy blackberry,<br />
cherry and dark chocolate flavors that are opulent<br />
through the long finish. The vineyard is in the Los Alamos<br />
region. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $34<br />
87<br />
Carica 2009 Kick Ranch Petite Sirah (Sonoma<br />
County). If you’re sensitive to high alcohol,<br />
this wine isn’t for you. If you’re not, it has plenty<br />
to offer in the way of flavor, including raspberries, chocolate<br />
and pepper. Turns a bit overripe in the finish, but<br />
not too much. —S.H.<br />
abv: 15.6% Price: $36<br />
86<br />
John Tyler 2008 Bacigalupi Vineyard Petite<br />
Sirah (Russian River Valley). Tastes<br />
like it was just bottled, with jammy red fruit, sweet licorice,<br />
vanilla and spice flavors and a fresh burst of acidity.<br />
Almost like it’s been frozen in time over the years, but<br />
not likely an ager. Drink up with barbecue, ham or pork<br />
chops. —S.H.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $58<br />
ZINFANDEL<br />
92<br />
John Tyler 2007 Bacigalupi Vineyard Zinfandel<br />
(Russian River Valley). Sweet, soft<br />
and delicious, this is a rich Zinfandel to savor with barbeque.<br />
It’s tasty in blackberry, cherry and blueberry<br />
fruit, with a coating of smoky oak. Earns extra points for<br />
a long, exotically spicy finish. Great now and over the<br />
next four years. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.8% Price: $38<br />
91<br />
Fritz 2009 Estate Zinfandel (Dry Creek<br />
Valley). A delicious Zinfandel, one of Fritz’s<br />
best in years. It shows Zin’s robust, briary character,<br />
with a peppery, brambly mouthfeel. Yet the long, cool<br />
vintage has resulted in sweetly ripe flavors of wild berries.<br />
—S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $25<br />
90<br />
Peachy Canyon 2010 Mustard Creek Zinfandel<br />
(Paso Robles). A soft, exceptionally<br />
ripe Zinfandel, sweet in what tastes like residual sugar,<br />
although the sweetness also comes from very high alcohol.<br />
The flavors are pure Paso Robles, all about black<br />
cherries, raspberries, red plums, red licorice, bacon<br />
and exotic spices. A splash of Petite Sirah brings tannic<br />
depth and weight. This is a good example of Peachy<br />
Canyon’s style. —S.H.<br />
abv: 15.5% Price: $36<br />
90<br />
Uvaggio 2010 Primitivo (Lodi). If only<br />
more California Primitivo could be made in this<br />
style - soft, lower in alcohol, modestly showing its fruit -<br />
there would be more converts among Zin fanatics, who<br />
would be wowed by the subtle black cherry and licorice<br />
flavors and dry finish, minimally aged in oak. —V.B.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $18<br />
90<br />
Yorba 2007 Shake Ridge Vineyards Zinfandel<br />
(Amador County). Yorba is doing the<br />
world of Zin lovers a huge favor by holding its wines in<br />
bottle for longer than most producers, and what you get<br />
for all that waiting is a wine ready to drink that’s still got<br />
plenty of structure and ageability. This Zin shows great<br />
depth, with subdued fruit and darker flavors of plum<br />
and coffee allowed to shine, rounded out by an intensity<br />
of spice. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.6% Price: $28<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>Mag.com | 57
89<br />
Cedarville Vineyard 2009 Estate Zinfandel<br />
(El Dorado). Cedarville is loved for its<br />
Syrah and Grenache but it can expertly handle its estate<br />
Zinfandel too—grown at 2,500-foot elevation—<br />
This smoky, raspberry-wrapped, silky wine is full of big,<br />
round mountain tannins yet somehow manages to be<br />
light on its feet on the finish. Have it with sticky ribs.<br />
—V.B.<br />
abv: 14.9% Price: $22<br />
88<br />
Leese-Fitch 2009 Zinfandel (California).<br />
For full review see page 10. Best Buy.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $13<br />
88<br />
Peachy Canyon 2010 Especiale Zinfandel<br />
(Paso Robles). Zinfandel is joined by<br />
Mourvèdre and a few other minor grape varieties in this<br />
overtly sweet, high alcohol wine. It’s soft and glyceriney,<br />
with cherry, blueberry, dark chocolate and pepper<br />
flavors. You have to give it credit for being true to its<br />
style. —S.H.<br />
abv: 15.5% Price: $40<br />
88<br />
Peachy Canyon 2010 Mustang Springs<br />
Zinfandel (Paso Robles). High alcohol gives<br />
this wine a glyceriney sweetness as well as heat, a prickly<br />
mouthfeel boosted by plenty of black pepper. Yet<br />
it’s softly delicious, in the Peachy Canyon way, with an<br />
enormous array of blackberries, chocolate and bacon.<br />
Drink now. —S.H.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $36<br />
88<br />
Peachy Canyon 2010 Snow Zinfandel<br />
(Paso Robles). This is Peachy Canyon’s 100%<br />
Zinfandel, unblended, and it’s a true expression of the<br />
variety, Paso Robles style. That means it’s softly voluptuous<br />
and almost to the point of overripeness, with<br />
blackberry, raisin and spice flavors. Drink now. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $36<br />
88<br />
Peachy Canyon 2010 Vortex Zinfandel<br />
(Paso Robles). Made in the Peachy Canyon<br />
style, this Zin, which contains some Petite Sirah, is very<br />
high in alcohol. It’s sweet, hot and soft. The blueberry,<br />
blackberry and chocolate flavors are almost in dessert<br />
wine territory, but it’s a very good example of its genre.<br />
—S.H.<br />
abv: 15.6% Price: $36<br />
87<br />
Kirkland Signature 2009 Grandmere Old<br />
Vine Zinfandel (Amador County). Aromatically,<br />
this wine takes some time to open, but in taste it’s<br />
structured, pretty and very floral, with smooth lines of<br />
cherry and red raspberry that defy its high alcohol level.<br />
Made by Renwood <strong>Wine</strong>ry in Amador County, it’s a very<br />
good value. Best Buy. —V.B.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $11<br />
87<br />
Peachy Canyon 2010 Incredible Red Zinfandel<br />
(Paso Robles). A useful Zin, rich and<br />
sweet and savory. Blended for complexity with Syrah<br />
and Petite Sirah, it’s satisfying in black cherry, red licorice<br />
and cola flavors, sprinkled with black pepper and<br />
baking spices. Easy to drink with barbecue, burgers and<br />
such. Best Buy. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.9% Price: $12<br />
58 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012<br />
87<br />
Ruby Hill <strong>Wine</strong>ry 2009 Peacock Patch<br />
Reserve Zinfandel (Livermore Valley). A<br />
big Zin with juicy dark cherry and blackberry jammyness<br />
and a slight hint of cedar and clove. This wine is a<br />
chance to open but is a nice showpiece for Ruby Hill’s<br />
love of and prowess with big, ripe Zins. —V.B.<br />
abv: 15.5% Price: $25<br />
87<br />
Sebastiani 2009 Zinfandel (Dry Creek<br />
Valley). A rich, flashy Zinfandel, packed with<br />
spicy cherry, blackberry, cocoa and pepper flavors.<br />
Shows plenty of Dry Creek character in the firm tannins<br />
and briary, brambly mouthfeel. A sweet finish suggests<br />
pairing it with slightly sweet dishes, like ribs or chicken<br />
slathered in barbeque sauce. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.4% Price: $24<br />
86<br />
Pessagno 2009 Idyll Times Vineyard Zinfandel<br />
(San Benito County). Roll out richly<br />
sauced barbecue for this lusty Zinfandel. It’s a big wine,<br />
full-bodied and dry, with spicy flavors of briary wild berries,<br />
tobacco and green herbs. It’s hard to like on its<br />
own, but sweet meats and hard cheeses will help soften<br />
it. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.7% Price: $21<br />
86<br />
Tortoise Creek 2010 The Chelonian Zinfandel<br />
(Lodi). Clements Hills is an up and<br />
coming subregion within Lodi and the grapes for this<br />
wine have been sourced from three Clements Hills<br />
vineyards. The wine has its rustic side but is also savory,<br />
with dark plum and berry fruit flavors and a toasty note<br />
at the end. The Chelonian Research Foundation, for<br />
which this wine is named, is devoted to the conservation<br />
of turtles and tortoises, and portions of the wine’s<br />
proceeds will be donated. Best Buy. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $11<br />
85<br />
Earthquake 2010 Zinfandel (Lodi). No<br />
doubt Michael-David is going for a certain style<br />
with Earthquake, describing it as “over the top and shattering<br />
to the veins.” Indeed. This Lodi Zin will knock<br />
your socks and several other pieces of clothing off with<br />
its smoky, greasy, hot and sweet berry pie flavors, with<br />
a side of bacon to boot. True to its style, this is one very<br />
big boy. —V.B.<br />
abv: 16% Price: $26<br />
85<br />
Gnarly Head 2010 Old Vine Zinfandel<br />
(Lodi). This majority Zin with 18% Petite Sirah<br />
is a popular, widely available choice for many Zin loves.<br />
Its concentrated fists of sweetness—vanilla and cherrybased<br />
mostly—are hits with many consumers. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $12<br />
85<br />
Peachy Canyon 2010 Old Bailey Zinfandel<br />
(Paso Robles). Too sweet by far, this is<br />
almost a dessert wine, with overripe raisin and prune<br />
flavors alongside the blackberries. Sugar reprises on the<br />
finish, making it a little cloying. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.7% Price: $36<br />
85<br />
Perry Creek 2009 Zinman Zinfandel (El<br />
Dorado). For full review see page 9.<br />
abv: 14.9% Price: $14<br />
85<br />
Quackenbush 2009 Estate Zinfandel<br />
(Lake County). A good, everyday Zinfan-<br />
del, robust in blackberry, raisin and chocolate flavors,<br />
wrapped into firm tannins. With its sweet finish, it will<br />
be a good companion to tomato-based barbecue. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.4% Price: $18<br />
84<br />
Campus Oaks 2008 Old Vine Zinfandel<br />
(Lodi). For full review see page 10.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $16<br />
84<br />
Darcie Kent Vineyards 2009 DeMayo<br />
Vineyard Zinfandel (Livermore Valley). A<br />
field blend from the DeMayo Vineyard, believed to be<br />
mostly Zin and Petite Sirah. The resulting wine doesn’t<br />
show much of its provenance or history, just a smidgen<br />
of spice but only fruit and modest of flavor. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $30<br />
84<br />
Peterson 2009 Old School Zinfandel (Dry<br />
Creek Valley). Made in the winery’s style,<br />
which is ripe, full-bodied and rustic. This one’s extracted<br />
in jammy blackberries, plums and currants, with<br />
some raisins on the finish, which is dry and spicy. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.2% Price: $18<br />
84<br />
Salvatore Principe 2010 Blue Groove<br />
Zinfandel (Lodi). A young, plummy Zin that’s<br />
lightly sweet, with blackberry jam, vanilla and caramel<br />
notes. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $13<br />
84<br />
XYZin 2009 Vine Age Series Zinfandel<br />
(California). A simple, rustic Zinfandel, sweet<br />
and fruity in cherry jam, red licorice, bacon and spice<br />
flavors, wrapped into robust tannins. The grapes were<br />
sourced from Sonoma, Mendocino and Lodi. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.2% Price: $16<br />
83<br />
Peterson 2009 Bradford Mountain Vineyard<br />
Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). Even if<br />
you don’t mind high alcohol in a Zinfandel, you might<br />
find yourself reacting to this one. It’s frankly hot, with<br />
a chili pepper burn to the berry fruit. It’s also overripe,<br />
with a sweet, Porty taste. —S.H.<br />
abv: 15.2% Price: $35<br />
82<br />
Peterson 2009 Bernier Zinyard Zinfandel<br />
(Dry Creek Valley). Unbalanced, with lots of<br />
acidity, hard tannins and raisiny flavors alongside green<br />
ones. —S.H.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $27<br />
81<br />
Peterson 2009 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley).<br />
Vegetal and a little unclean, with deficient<br />
acidity that makes the fruit tastes insipid and sweet.<br />
Meanwhile, high alcohol makes it all hot. —S.H.<br />
abv: 15.1% Price: $24<br />
BARBERA<br />
90<br />
Yorba 2008 Shake Ridge Vineyards Barbera<br />
(Amador County). A very drinkable,<br />
densely lush Barbera that’s been given proper time to<br />
age and tame its tannins. This wine has dense plum flavors<br />
and accompanying layers of spice and earth, a very<br />
nice example of mountain-grown California Barbera.<br />
—V.B.<br />
abv: 14.9% Price: $28
86<br />
Lava Cap 2009 Estate Barbera (El Dorado).<br />
A soft, robust Barbera with dark cherry flavors<br />
from beginning to end, and a pleasant level of minerality<br />
that levels off on the finish. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.8% Price: $25<br />
83<br />
Zucca 2009 Barbera (Amador County).<br />
A simple Barbera with not much in the way of<br />
aromas and just a slight amount of earthy berry flavors.<br />
—V.B.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $32<br />
TEMPRANILLO<br />
91<br />
Twisted Oak 2008 The Spaniard (Calaveras<br />
County). It may just be that this 84%<br />
Tempranillo blend (plus 12% Graciano, 4% Garnacha)<br />
needs some more time in bottle to develop, in which<br />
case it will only get better. In the meantime it has undeniable<br />
juicy, red fruit, grippy tannins that are just starting<br />
to mellow and is overall a very savory and delicious<br />
wine. Fermented as a field blend, The Spaniard mingled<br />
for months in all-new French oak and would go<br />
gangbusters with lamb or other red meats. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.3% Price: $49<br />
90<br />
Yorba 2007 Shake Ridge Vineyards Tempranillo<br />
(Amador County). Yorba’s Tempranillo<br />
is very masculine, briary and tannic, packed with<br />
earthy baked plum, raspberry and dark chocolate mocha,<br />
with a slight trace of black licorice. Concentrated<br />
and lush, it would stand its own against many a big slab<br />
of meat. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.9% Price: $38<br />
87<br />
Longoria 2009 Clover Creek Vineyard<br />
Tempranillo (Santa Ynez Valley). Pinot<br />
Noir specialist Rick Longoria continues to tackle this<br />
difficult variety, which may be the hardest to master in<br />
California. His results are inconsistent. The ’09 is a very<br />
good wine, bone dry and dusty, with tobacco and cherry<br />
flavors. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $36<br />
OTHER RED WINES<br />
93<br />
Twisted Oak 2009 Torcido Garnacha (Calaveras<br />
County). What a wine. It tries to intimidate.<br />
At first, by its bottle size and alcohol level,<br />
but in the glass this 100% Garnacha is like a purring<br />
kitten—well a purring 20-pound Maine Coon cat, joyous<br />
in its pretty red fruit, and its earthy, meaty, vanilla<br />
and cinnamon toast range of goodness. All lush, Twisted<br />
Oak’s Torcido is, like a retro soap opera, brave and beautiful.<br />
—V.B.<br />
abv: 15.3% Price: $32<br />
88<br />
Samsara 2009 Larner Vineyard Grenache<br />
(Santa Ynez Valley). A ripe red wine, brimming<br />
with cherry fruit, and heightened in texture by<br />
acidity. Not particularly complex, but rich and satisfying,<br />
making it one of the better Grenaches from California.<br />
—S.H.<br />
abv: 14.6% Price: $36<br />
87<br />
Fenestra 2009 Graciano (Lodi). Livermore<br />
Valley-based Fenestra loves to source fun stuff<br />
from Lodi, and Graciano has proven to like Lodi very<br />
much. In Fenestra’s hands this varietal is soft and round,<br />
perfectly fine drinking, a taste of Bing cherry in liquid<br />
form. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.7% Price: $25<br />
86<br />
Mica Cellars 2010 Babcock VIneyard<br />
Charbono (Suisun Valley). This is a tiny<br />
production Charbono that’s light and in balance, with<br />
flavors and aromas of raspberry, red cherry and mushrooms<br />
right out of the dirt. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $30<br />
86<br />
Rusack 2009 Sangiovese (Santa Ynez<br />
Valley). Very ripe and flashy, but a little too<br />
sweet. Shows sugary raspberry and cherry jam flavors,<br />
with lots of zippy acidity. —S.H.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $32<br />
DESSERT WINES<br />
93<br />
Terre Rouge 2008 Muscat a Petits Grains<br />
Vin Doux Naturel (Shenandoah Valley).<br />
Bill Easton doesn’t make this dessert wine every year,<br />
so when he does, especially of this caliber, it’s a good<br />
time to pick up some of this deliciously balanced dessert<br />
delight. It’s a very nuanced rendering of crisp, clean<br />
peach, pear and honey flavors that would go well with<br />
fruit desserts or anything involving almond paste. Best<br />
Buy. —V.B.<br />
abv: 16.5% Price: $15/375 ml<br />
93<br />
Quady 2010 Essensia Orange Muscat<br />
(California). For full review see page 5.<br />
abv: 15.4% Price: $25<br />
92<br />
Quady 2010 Elysium Black Muscat (California).<br />
For full review see page 6.<br />
abv: 15.1% Price: $21<br />
90<br />
Bonterra 2010 Bartolucci Vineyard Muscat<br />
(Lake County). Bonterra is offering up<br />
some serious yumminess here, from organic grapes<br />
grown in Lake County. The sweet wine opens with a<br />
sweet floral nose and a lot of minerality graduating into<br />
a concentrated thickness of golden honey-graham flavors.<br />
—V.B.<br />
abv: 9% Price: $16/375 ml<br />
87<br />
Terre Rouge 2003 ROX Monarch Mine<br />
Vineyard Roussanne (Sierra Foothills).<br />
Made in an oxidized style like a Sherry from Spain, ROX<br />
is meant to be drunk as an apéritif with raw oysters or<br />
hard, stinky cheeses and cured meats. An interesting<br />
almond-flavored take on Sierra Foothills-grown Roussanne<br />
grapes for sure. —V.B.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $20/500 ml<br />
84<br />
Martin Ray 2008 Dessert <strong>Wine</strong> (California).<br />
Very sweet, but the raspberry and cherry<br />
fruit is thin, making the wine ultimately unsatisfying.<br />
—S.H.<br />
abv: 16.8% Price: $18<br />
WASHINGTON<br />
WHITE WINES<br />
93<br />
Poet’s Leap 2010 Riesling (Columbia<br />
Valley). For full review see page 5. Editors’<br />
Choice.<br />
abv: 12.9% Price: $20<br />
91<br />
Upland Estates 2009 Gewürztraminer<br />
(Snipes Mountain District). Gewürztraminer<br />
is a great success at this Snipes Mountain winery,<br />
here done in a full-bodied, fleshy style that discards any<br />
hint of floral soap. Vanilla bean, lemon cream, graham<br />
cracker and a thoroughly yummy core of ripe fruit mark<br />
this as nonclassic, but incredibly delicious. Best Buy.<br />
—P.G.<br />
abv: 13.2% Price: $12<br />
90<br />
Robert O. Smasne 2008 Francis Reserve<br />
White (Columbia Valley). Two-thirds Chardonnay,<br />
22% Viognier, and the rest Sauvignon Blanc—<br />
an unusual blend that works well. Medium gold and<br />
showing the color and scents of oak aging, this bigboned<br />
white runs the gamut from apple to pear to<br />
peach, soaked in Bourbon barrel flavors, with a rich,<br />
creamy finish. —P.G.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $38<br />
89<br />
Stottle 2008 Viognier (Walla Walla Valley).<br />
From Dwelley vineyard grapes, this barrel-fermented<br />
Viognier offers appealing toasty fruit<br />
coated in buttered nut goodness. Meyer lemon and<br />
stone fruits, dusted with cinnamon, give it a French<br />
pastry sort of finish, though it is completely dry. —P.G.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $24<br />
88<br />
Airfield Estates 2010 Lightning White<br />
(Yakima Valley). A screwcapped, Rhône-style<br />
white, blends 43% Viognier, 39% Roussanne and 18%<br />
Marsanne in a tightly wound, fresh, lively wine. Spicy<br />
apple and pear fruit flavors run into a medium long finish<br />
with some near-term aging potential. —P.G.<br />
abv: 14.2% Price: $20<br />
88<br />
Upland Estates 2009 Sauvignon Blanc<br />
(Snipes Mountain District). This opens soft,<br />
even a bit flat, and should be served chilled for best<br />
showing. With some breathing time tropical fruit flavors<br />
come up, ripe and fleshy, with a butterscotch finish and<br />
a bit of heat. Best for near-term drinking. —P.G.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $15<br />
SPARKLING WINES<br />
90<br />
Treveri Cellars NV Brut (Columbia Valley).<br />
A Chardonnay-based sparkler, this rich<br />
and concentrated wine has a luscious mix of apricot,<br />
peach and papaya fruit flavors in a creamy, textural setting.<br />
Exceptional length and development in the glass,<br />
which keeps bringing in nuances such as vanilla and<br />
pepper. Best Buy. —P.G.<br />
abv: NA Price: $14<br />
87<br />
Treveri Cellars NV Demi-Sec Gewürztraminer<br />
(Columbia Valley). A sweetly floral<br />
nose wraps around you with the intensity of the<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>Mag.com | 59
Gewürztraminer grape, suggesting orange, perfume<br />
and spice. It’s sweet enough to serve with a fruit-based<br />
dessert, though not sugary in any way. —P.G.<br />
abv: NA Price: $17<br />
87<br />
Treveri Cellars NV Extra Brut (Columbia<br />
Valley). Treveri is a new Washington state sparkling<br />
wine producer that offers a full lineup of traditional<br />
method bubbly. This Extra Brut has clean, tart flavors<br />
of melon and citrus, fresh and crisply defined. —P.G.<br />
abv: NA Price: $14<br />
CABERNETS & BLENDS<br />
95<br />
Dunham 2007 XIII Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Columbia Valley). For full review see page<br />
3. Editors’ Choice.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $45<br />
93<br />
Dusted Valley 2008 V.R. Special Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). Pure Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon, deep and sappy, with the dark, licorice<br />
and coffee-infused complexity of Walla Walla’s best<br />
bottles. Sharp and young, with a potent, liquorous finish,<br />
this explosive bottle of cassis-driven fruit should cellar<br />
well for a decade or more. Cellar Selection. —P.G.<br />
abv: 15.3% Price: $53<br />
92<br />
Dunham 2008 Lewis Vineyard Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). For full review<br />
see page 5. Cellar Selection.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $75<br />
92<br />
JM Cellars 2009 Tre (Columbia Valley). A<br />
slight name change in 2009 for what previously<br />
was labeled Tre Fanciulli. It is still a blend of old vine<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah, clean and pure<br />
with pretty cherry fruit. It’s focused and full-bodied, a<br />
bit blocky, but perfectly balanced and drinking nicely<br />
already. —P.G.<br />
abv: 14.4% Price: $45<br />
92<br />
Smasne Cellars 2008 Upland Vineyard<br />
Old Vine Cabernet Sauvignon (Snipes<br />
Mountain District). This drinks ripe, though the alcohol<br />
is under 14%. Deep and chewy flavors of black<br />
cherry and cassis, hinting at raisin and prune, anchor<br />
a substantial wine with muscle and verve. Spicy and<br />
chocolaty, this opens up nicely over the course of several<br />
hours. —P.G.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $42<br />
91<br />
Dusted Valley 2009 Wallywood Red (Columbia<br />
Valley). This is a GSM blend—about<br />
two-thirds Syrah—loaded with juicy acidity. The sappy,<br />
deep raspberry fruit sinks into the palate, racy and<br />
penetrating. It suggests that this is a wine to cellar for<br />
awhile. At the moment it suddenly hits a hard stop—<br />
a wall of slate and graphite. Cellar Selection. —P.G.<br />
abv: 14.7% Price: $42<br />
91<br />
JM Cellars 2009 Longevity Red (Columbia<br />
Valley). All six Bordeaux grapes—yes, including<br />
Carmenère—are in this fruity blend, aged for<br />
21 months in 80% new French oak and 20% once-used<br />
French oak. Plums and cherries, a distinctive whiff of<br />
cola, and highlights of cinnamon spice all come togeth-<br />
60 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2011<br />
er. Tannins are round, almost silky, and the wine fades<br />
in a graceful finish. —P.G.<br />
abv: 14.3% Price: $42<br />
91<br />
Robert O. Smasne 2009 Carl Reserve<br />
(Columbia Valley). This Rhône-style red<br />
blend plays out broadly across the full palate, filling the<br />
mouth with tangy flavors of mixed berries and plums.<br />
Generously applied oak brings on a wash of baking spices,<br />
coconut and cinnamon, giving a sweetness to the<br />
moderate tannins. —P.G.<br />
abv: 14.3% Price: $68<br />
90<br />
Robert O. Smasne 2008 Owens Reserve<br />
(Columbia Valley). A raisiny and ultraripe<br />
Bordeaux-style blend, two-thirds Cabernet Sauvignon.<br />
It has apparently been given a lot of time in heavilytoasted<br />
barrels, and the layers of smoke, espresso, cinnamon<br />
and tobacco dominate. A wine for those who like<br />
the blockbuster, oaky style. —P.G.<br />
abv: 14.2% Price: $75<br />
90<br />
Smasne Cellars 2008 County Line Red<br />
(Columbia Valley). A standout in a flight of<br />
more expensive wines, this five-grape blend leans heavily<br />
on the Bordeaux varietals, with a bit of Syrah as well.<br />
Firm and complex, its black cherry, cassis and plum fruit<br />
flavors are nicely accented by baking spices and red licorice.<br />
The balance is perfect; the finish carries a suggestion<br />
of dried leaf. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $19<br />
89<br />
Airfield Estates 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
(Yakima Valley). This young winery<br />
has made huge strides with its red wines, as this 100%<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon demonstrates. Young, tight, tart,<br />
and expressive, it takes the cranberry and cassis components<br />
from cool-vintage, cool-climate grapes, and turns<br />
them into a complete and complex wine. High acid,<br />
with well-integrated nuances of mushroom, earth, and<br />
smoke. —P.G.<br />
abv: 14.6% Price: $25<br />
89<br />
Lullaby 2008 Lalayee Red (Walla Walla<br />
Valley). This 50-50 Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
blend is soft upon entry, with delicate, pretty fruit<br />
flavors of raspberry and wild plum. Gentle accents hint<br />
at buttery caramel and sweet cracker through a wellbalanced<br />
finish. A light touch is evident throughout.<br />
—P.G.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $45<br />
88<br />
Airfield Estates 2009 Aviator Red (Yakima<br />
Valley). Light and balanced, this five grape<br />
Bordeaux-style blend does not try to overreach. The<br />
fruit is clean and delicate, pale cherry set amidst dried<br />
leaves, tobacco, and muted tannins. Plenty of acid keeps<br />
it lively, but everything is in focus and proportionate.<br />
—P.G.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $35<br />
88<br />
Dusted Valley 2008 Stone Tree Vineyard<br />
BFM Red (Wahluke Slope). This amped-up<br />
vintage of the Merlot-dominated, BFM Bordeaux-style<br />
red tops 15% alcohol, but seems a bit contrived. Aggressive<br />
vanilla and tobacco flavors cover up the nuanced<br />
highlights found in past BFM vintages, and the base of<br />
black cherry fruit carries a root beer finish. Not that it<br />
isn’t a tasty drink—it is—it’s just less interesting than<br />
before. —P.G.<br />
abv: 15.3% Price: $53<br />
88<br />
Farm Boy 2009 Red (Columbia Valley). A<br />
go-to red blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah<br />
and Malbec, Farm Boy is one of Robert Smasne’s many<br />
ventures. A fruity mix of cherries and plums, with wellintegrated<br />
streaks of clean earth, milk chocolate, and a<br />
whiff of Bourbon barrel. —P.G.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $15<br />
88<br />
Steppe Cellars 2008 StoneTree Vineyard<br />
(Wahluke Slope). Pretty, supple purple fruits<br />
infuse this interesting blend of Tempranillo, Grenache<br />
and Mourvèdre. No one grape dominates; the flavors<br />
are smoothly integrated and well-matched, with an undercoating<br />
of smoke, licorice, pastis and coffee. Nicely<br />
polished tannins. —P.G.<br />
abv: 14.6% Price: $28<br />
88<br />
Stottle 2008 Reserve (Columbia Valley).<br />
An unusual blend of Sangiovese, Nebbiolo and<br />
Barbera, aged two and a half years in French oak, yields<br />
a pleasing wine with light berry fruit anchoring a spicy<br />
center. The barrel notes add toast and cracker, nicely<br />
balanced, and there remains a suggestion of yeasty<br />
dough as well. —P.G.<br />
abv: 13.8% Price: $34<br />
87<br />
Dusted Valley 2009 Squirrel Tooth Alice<br />
Red (Columbia Valley). A Rhône-style red<br />
blend, with tart boysenberry and blueberry fruit. Sappy<br />
and forward, with light tannins and moderate acidity.<br />
—P.G.<br />
abv: 15.2% Price: $39<br />
86<br />
Steppe Cellars 2008 Artemisia (Columbia<br />
Valley). A Bordeaux-style blend, this initially<br />
hides its fruit in a wash of sharp-toned barrel<br />
scents. Tart berry flavors come in with a hint of sweetness,<br />
along with some volatility and heat. The wine<br />
should benefit from further bottle age. —P.G.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $28<br />
MERLOT<br />
91<br />
Dunham 2008 Lewis Vineyard Merlot<br />
(Columbia Valley). Firm raspberry fruit, tight<br />
and concentrated, is swathed in a generous coat of deliciously<br />
toasty oak. Tart and youthful, the wine’s depth<br />
comes through as it breathes open in the glass, adding<br />
licorice, coffee grounds, and buttered nuts to the toasty<br />
finish. —P.G.<br />
abv: 14.4% Price: $75<br />
90<br />
Airfield Estates 2009 Merlot (Yakima Valley).<br />
This is all Merlot, tight and toasty, with<br />
generous black fruits compacted into a dense core. This<br />
one needs more bottle age, and/or substantial decanting<br />
time, but it shows excellent depth and polish already.<br />
Editors’ Choice. —P.G.<br />
abv: 15.1% Price: $25<br />
90<br />
Hightower 2008 Merlot (Columbia Valley).<br />
This is 100% Merlot, and all Red Moun-
tain fruit. Ripe plums and cherries are accented with<br />
hints of dried leaves, tobacco, and sweet herb. Baking<br />
spices reflect its 20 months in oak, and the wine has a<br />
soft finish that is ideal for immediate enjoyment. Editors’<br />
Choice. —P.G.<br />
abv: 14.2% Price: $25<br />
88<br />
Steppe Cellars 2008 Merlot (Columbia<br />
Valley). At first, a rush of front-loaded plum<br />
and blackberry fruit hits the palate, then the flavors<br />
seem to sag a bit entering the midpalate. A wall of stillto-be-resolved<br />
oak leads into a hard, astringent, somewhat<br />
woody finish. Yet there is a substantial and wellbuilt<br />
wine here, waiting to resolve its components into<br />
a more seamless whole. Retasted after being open a full<br />
day, it showed well, suggesting good aging potential.<br />
—P.G.<br />
abv: 14.4% Price: $28<br />
86<br />
Kirkland Signature 2010 Merlot (Columbia<br />
Valley). For full review see page 11. Best<br />
Buy.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $9<br />
SYRAH<br />
94<br />
Dunham 2008 Lewis Vineyard Syrah (Columbia<br />
Valley). For full review see page 4.<br />
Cellar Selection.<br />
abv: NA Price: $75<br />
93<br />
Dusted Valley 2008 Rachis Syrah (Columbia<br />
Valley). A new entry in the Dusted<br />
Valley lineup, this offering is co-fermented with Viognier<br />
and includes a small amount of Petite Sirah as well.<br />
It shows real depth and power, a concentrated explosion<br />
of boysenberry and black cherry fruit, annotated with<br />
clove and anise. A delicious underpinning of mineral<br />
and graphite anchor the lengthy finish. —P.G.<br />
abv: 14.7% Price: $53<br />
93<br />
JM Cellars 2009 Syrah (Columbia Valley).<br />
This wine kept improving in the glass over<br />
a period of hours, and as it did so, the score kept rising.<br />
Initial scents of Bourbon barrel gave way to rich blueberry<br />
and black cherry fruit, set in a roasted, potent mix<br />
of darker flavors. Smoke, coffee liqueur, a whiff of stem,<br />
a streak of vanilla, all tightly wound and elevated with<br />
scents of citrus peel. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $32<br />
93<br />
JM Cellars 2009 Boushey Vineyard Syrah<br />
(Yakima Valley). An elegant showcase for<br />
the Boushey fruit, this new JM Cellars release displays<br />
refined raspberry fruit, coated in silky cocoa and almond<br />
butter. Firmly acidic, sleek and racy, it gains complexity<br />
and texture through a lingering, tobacco-laden<br />
finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.<br />
abv: 14.9% Price: $45<br />
92<br />
Dunham 2009 Syrah (Columbia Valley).<br />
Thick, oaky and loaded with toasty highlights,<br />
this substantial Syrah slathers its fruit in a heavy coat of<br />
caramel, buttered nuts and spice. Delicious and supple,<br />
its naturally juicy acidity keeps the wine lively. With substantial<br />
breathing time, boysenberry fruit melds with<br />
streaks of roasted coffee, clove and tobacco. Editors’<br />
Choice. —P.G.<br />
abv: 13.8% Price: $35<br />
92<br />
Steppe Cellars 2008 StoneTree Vineyard<br />
Syrah (Wahluke Slope). An unusual and<br />
compelling effort, this opens with lush, generous fruit<br />
flavors of both red and black berries, highlighted with<br />
orange peel. Excellent depth and texture, with a fullbodied<br />
middle and palate-pleasing minerality. Gains<br />
complexity through a lingering finish. Editors’ Choice.<br />
—P.G.<br />
abv: 14.6% Price: $28<br />
90<br />
Dusted Valley 2009 Stained Tooth Syrah<br />
(Columbia Valley). Substantial and muscular,<br />
still quite tight and unyielding, this grudgingly displays<br />
purple fruits in a mix of roasted coffee beans, clove and<br />
black olive. If past releases are any indication, this will<br />
continue to evolve and expand as it gets a bit more bottle<br />
time. —P.G.<br />
abv: 15.2% Price: $32<br />
89<br />
McCrea Cellars 2007 Boushey Grande<br />
Côte Vineyard Syrah (Yakima Valley).<br />
Round, ripe and quite pretty cherry fruit flavors, showing<br />
a hint of loam and a briny note. Tannins have<br />
smoothed out, and the length is better than average.<br />
Score could improve with further bottle age. —P.G.<br />
abv: 14.8% Price: $36<br />
89<br />
Smasne Cellars 2008 Block #3 Lawrence<br />
Vineyard Syrah (Columbia Valley).<br />
Tart and juicy, with crisply-rendered berry and plum<br />
fruit flavors. As with all the Smasne wines, the oak is a<br />
large presence, here adding a striking note of clove. The<br />
tannins hint at a slight green streak, but the overall balance<br />
is fine. —P.G.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $32<br />
88<br />
McCrea Cellars 2007 Cuvée Orleans Syrah<br />
(Yakima Valley). Dusty and toasty aromas<br />
over sweet plum fruit, with a streak of mocha running<br />
sharply down the center. Svelt and open, yet still sharp<br />
and showing a little bite in the back. —P.G.<br />
abv: 14.8% Price: $40<br />
OTHER RED WINES<br />
90<br />
Airfield Estates 2010 Tempranillo (Yakima<br />
Valley). Much improved from past efforts,<br />
this firm and fruity Tempranillo has a lush core of boysenberry<br />
and black cherry fruit. It’s finished with screwcap,<br />
and may require decanting to push it open, but it<br />
will reward your patience with a deep and focused wine<br />
that has some cellar potential. —P.G.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $25<br />
90<br />
Smasne Cellars 2009 Upland Vineyard<br />
Grenache (Snipes Mountain District).<br />
Dried leaf and cherry tobacco scents highlight this wellmade<br />
Grenache. It includes just a whiff or two of the<br />
classic funk, but the rich black-cherry fruit is the real<br />
star, well-ripened and leading into a clean, lingering finish.<br />
—P.G.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $30<br />
90<br />
Stottle 2008 Tempranillo (Horse Heaven<br />
Hills). Stottle does an especially good job with<br />
Tempranillo, sourced from the same site as its Nebbiolo.<br />
Fruity and fleshy, loaded with bright berry notes, it<br />
reflects its 21 months in barrel in its complex streaks of<br />
spice, chocolate and butterscotch. —P.G.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $26<br />
89<br />
Stottle 2008 Barbera (Columbia Valley).<br />
Solidly varietal flavors of strawberry and Bing<br />
cherry fruit anchor this well-made, 100% Barbera. The<br />
wine has both depth and polish, with some varietal tartness<br />
running through a medium length finish. It makes<br />
a good case for Barbera’s potential in Washington state.<br />
—P.G.<br />
abv: 13.5% Price: $26<br />
88<br />
Airfield Estates 2010 Pinot Noir (Yakima<br />
Valley). This has a soft entry, its fruit beginning<br />
to show secondary flavors of bakery pastries. Mulberry<br />
and prune, soft and spicy, make for a pleasing, accessible<br />
wine that finishes with a lick of cinnamon. It is already<br />
drinking well. —P.G.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $32<br />
88<br />
Dusted Valley 2009 Stone Tree Vineyard<br />
Mourvèdre (Wahluke Slope). Round and<br />
fruity, with a generous mix of berry and cherry, and no<br />
discernible oak influence, this pleasing Mourvèdre lets<br />
the fruit be the star. Nicely balanced and drinking well<br />
already, it carries a hint of mineral/metal in the finish.<br />
—P.G.<br />
abv: 15% Price: $39<br />
88<br />
Steppe Cellars 2008 StoneTree Vineyard<br />
Malbec (Wahluke Slope). It drinks bigger<br />
than the listed 14% alcohol, but remains all in proportion.<br />
Tangy cherry and plum fruit flavors are wrapped<br />
in spice, cinnamon especially. A coffee scent carries<br />
through on the palate, infusing the finish. —P.G.<br />
abv: 14% Price: $28<br />
88<br />
Smasne Cellars 2008 Phinny Hill Vineyard<br />
Petit Verdot (Horse Heaven Hills).<br />
Dark and chocolaty, with grainy tannins under deep cassis<br />
and black cherry fruit. Full-bodied and chewy, with<br />
coffee grounds and spices filling in the finish. —P.G.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $35<br />
86<br />
Smasne Cellars 2008 Phinny Hill Vineyard<br />
Malbec (Horse Heaven Hills). From a<br />
well-regarded site in the Horse Heaven Hills, this pure<br />
Malbec is clean and well-proportioned, but a bit on the<br />
simple side. Plain red fruit flavors, accented with light<br />
barrel notes, quickly fade on the delicate finish. —P.G.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $32<br />
85<br />
Smasne Cellars 2008 Phinny Hill Vineyard<br />
Carmenère (Horse Heaven Hills). A<br />
heavily pungent scent of bell pepper is partially cloaked<br />
in mocha flavors but seeps through on the palate. An uneasy<br />
truce between the vegetal fruit and the chocolaty<br />
barrel keeps this wine in an awkward condition; more<br />
bottle time may soften it but it can’t ripen it. —P.G.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $28<br />
85<br />
Stottle 2007 Nebbiolo (Horse Heaven<br />
Hills). Pure Nebbiolo from the Elerding Vine-<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>Mag.com | 61
yard, aged 40 months in a mix of French and American<br />
oak. Nebbiolo does not have much color to begin with,<br />
and this seems a bit washed out, with acids and barrel<br />
flavors overtaking the fruit. Astringent and aggressively<br />
oaky. —P.G.<br />
abv: 13.6% Price: $42<br />
62 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012
SPIRITS<br />
REMEMBER THE REPOSADO<br />
drink reposado,” the Tequila rep<br />
said. “I just don’t think of it. I use blan-<br />
"Idon’t<br />
co for mixing drinks, and añejo for sipping<br />
straight up.”<br />
Apparently, reposado has become the forgotten<br />
middle child of the Tequila world. Blanco<br />
(“white,” or unaged) Tequila is the sassy youngest,<br />
the one who stirs up trouble in margaritas<br />
and other cocktails, while añejo (“aged”) Tequila<br />
is the elder statesman, dark and mellow.<br />
Meanwhile, reposado (“rested”) Tequila,<br />
aged in oak barrels from two months to one year,<br />
is often a perfect blend of sprightly peppery and<br />
citrus notes tempered by mellow, toasty vanilla.<br />
It’s also an excellent canvas for showcasing<br />
the differences in terroir. Most Tequila originates<br />
in Jalisco, Mexico; those distilled from<br />
agave plants grown in the highlands area tend to<br />
96<br />
Siete Leguas Reposado (Mexico; Gemini<br />
Spirits & <strong>Wine</strong>, Chicago, IL). Excellent<br />
all around, for sipping or mixing, this highlands Tequila<br />
has a delicacy and an almost whiskey-like feel to it. Pale<br />
straw, almost no color at all, with lightly smoky and herbaceous<br />
flavors finishing with a hint of vanilla.<br />
abv: 40% Price: $45<br />
95<br />
Luna Nueva Ultra Premium Limited Edition<br />
Tequila Reposado (Mexico; LCG International,<br />
Medina, OH). For full review see page<br />
10.<br />
abv: 40% Price: $37<br />
94<br />
Don Roberto Reposado (Mexico; Aveniu<br />
Brands, Baltimore, MD). Don Roberto is<br />
one of the few remaining 100% Mexican- and familyowned<br />
Tequila producers. The brand launched in 1924<br />
as the family’s private stock, and was originally not commercially<br />
available, but given only as gifts. It’s still giftworthy,<br />
bursting with butterscotch flavors and ending<br />
with a lilt of fresh apples, pears, and light brush of black<br />
pepper. Aged six months.<br />
abv: 40% Price: $44<br />
Tequila Corrido (Mexico; True Blue Im-<br />
94 ports, Scottsdale, AZ). “Corrido” is Mexican<br />
folk music, originating from the late 1800s. Nodding<br />
to the musical name, a guitar pick on a leather strap is<br />
wrapped around the bottle’s neck. Perhaps because it’s<br />
aged twice (first in Jack Daniel’s barrels, then in Maker’s<br />
Mark barrels), this highlands Tequila is dessert-like and<br />
reminiscent of an añejo. It would make a good sipping<br />
Tequila. Look for maple syrup and apple notes, with a<br />
creamy mouthfeel and tingly cinnamon spice on the finish.<br />
abv: 40% Price: $40<br />
have a fruity, floral, herbaceous quality, while in<br />
the lowlands, volcanic soil yields earthy, dry tequilas.<br />
Further, a number of smaller producers<br />
specify particular estates where the agave plants<br />
were grown.<br />
This Cinco de Mayo, don’t forget about reposado.<br />
Bartenders certainly aren’t. Indeed, reposado<br />
Tequila is making a strong showing on<br />
cocktail menus. While añejos are often too expensive<br />
to mix, and blancos too brash, the honeyed<br />
tones of reposados lend affordable finesse<br />
to all manner of drinks, and many are suitable as<br />
sipping Tequilas in their own right.<br />
With such a fine crop available, it’s hard to<br />
imagine why anyone wouldn’t be drinking reposado<br />
these days.<br />
Sláinte!<br />
1921 Tequila Reposado (Mexico; Casa<br />
93 1921 LLC, San Antonio, TX). Luscious butterscotch<br />
notes touched with lemon peel lead the way,<br />
while dry cocoa, leather and cigar tobacco notes develop<br />
on the finish. Soft feel. Based on this complex and<br />
mouthwatering reposado, the añejo must be a knockout.<br />
abv: 40% Price: $45<br />
93<br />
Karma Tequila (Mexico; WC Spirits LLC,<br />
North Hollywood, CA). Aged nearly a full<br />
year (even one more day would have classified this as<br />
añejo), this pale-straw spirit has a caramel foundation,<br />
but retains a pleasing lightness. The aroma is delicate<br />
and floral, while the flavors surprise, with cinnamon,<br />
cardamom and nutmeg woven into the caramel. It<br />
doesn’t hurt that this highlands Tequila comes in a gorgeous<br />
bottle with a glass stopper and leather bracelet<br />
wrapped around the bottle’s neck.<br />
abv: 40% Price: $37<br />
92<br />
Luna Nueva 2012 The Mayan Prophecy<br />
Edicion Especial Tequila Reposado<br />
(Mexico; LCG International, Medina, OH). For<br />
full review see page 10.<br />
abv: 40% Price: $45<br />
92<br />
—Kara newMan<br />
Azul Imperial Reposado (Mexico; United<br />
Imports, West Covina, CA). Give this bright<br />
yellow-gold reposado a little time for the alcohol to dissipate.<br />
Look for a mild honey-agave scent and round,<br />
buttery flavors with a faint peppery tickle in the back of<br />
the throat. The spirit finishes dry and clean, with a bit of<br />
oakiness. Best Buy.<br />
abv: 40% Price: $29<br />
Jose Cuervo Tradicional Tequila Reposa-<br />
92 do (Mexico; Diageo, New York, NY). A<br />
solid cocktail choice, this 100% agave Tequila has rich,<br />
rounded vanilla and zingy peppery notes followed by a<br />
dry cocoa accent on the finish. The bottle is a stunner,<br />
with its yellow, red and black Day of the Dead graphic<br />
that’s meant to be frozen to bring out additional thermochromic<br />
details. (It’s a bit of overkill—the bottle is<br />
plenty eye-catching at room temperature.)<br />
abv: 40% Price: $26<br />
92<br />
Olmeca Altos (Mexico; Pernod Ricard<br />
USA, Purchase, NY). Within the square<br />
bottle with tactile raised graphics, this spirit is loaded<br />
with tropical fruit (pineapple and lychee) chased by robust<br />
caramel notes and waft of smoke. Leaning toward<br />
dessert-like flavors, this highlands Tequila veers close to<br />
añejo territory. Best Buy.<br />
abv: 40% Price: $25<br />
T1 Tequila Reposado Excepcional (Mex-<br />
92 ico; T1 Tequila, San Antonio, TX). Rested<br />
in barrels previously used to age Scotch whiskey, this<br />
Tequila is complex, earthy and unlike any other. Where<br />
others are caramel-forward (the result of resting in used<br />
Bourbon barrels), this reposado is crisp, with woodsy,<br />
green flavors and subtle notes of coconut and toffee on<br />
the finish. The striking, bulbous bottle looks like a genie<br />
should pop out, capped as it is with a flame-shaped<br />
glass stopper.<br />
abv: 40% Price: $48<br />
Tres Agaves Reposado (Mexico; Tres<br />
92 Agaves Products, Oakland, CA). Give<br />
this light reposado a little time to open up. The aroma<br />
morphs from a smoky, almost barbecue sauce-like<br />
aroma to softer, fruiter, even lightly floral notes. The<br />
spirit, aged six to nine months in previously used Bourbon<br />
casks, offers a vanilla flavor with an assertive herbaceous,<br />
grassy finish, faintly touched with menthol and<br />
fresh basil.<br />
abv: 40% Price: $36<br />
91<br />
Gran Amigo Tequila Reposado (Mexico;<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>ry Exchange, Novato, CA). Smoky<br />
notes barrel out first, followed by rounded butterscotch<br />
and nutty flavors on the elongated finish. This palestraw<br />
reposado would make a great margarita, it’s crying<br />
out for lime. Best Buy.<br />
abv: 40% Price: $25<br />
91<br />
Pueblo Viejo (Mexico; Gemini Spirits &<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>, Chicago, IL). Has a well-constructed<br />
mix of fruity sweetness and oaky vanilla, with a light but<br />
lingering smoky finish. Best Buy.<br />
abv: 40% Price: $23<br />
Tequila Teirras Reposado (Mexico; Cas-<br />
91 tle Brands, New York, NY). This certified organic<br />
Tequila has a fresh, fruity aroma, with faint touches<br />
of pepper and hay. On the palate, look for bright jalapeño<br />
flavors, like a blanco, covered with a thick blanket<br />
of vanilla. Soft feel.<br />
abv: 40% Price: $32<br />
90<br />
Excellia Reposado (Mexico; Domaine Select<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> Estates, New York, NY). Aged in<br />
Sauternes and Cognac casks, this light gold spirit has<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>Mag.com | 63
notes of sweet vanilla, delicate oak, and a faintly smoky<br />
finish. The bottle looks sophisticated, with a pretty red<br />
glass flower inset.<br />
abv: 40% Price: $65<br />
90<br />
Gran Dovejo Reposado (Mexico; Mendez<br />
Imports, Dixon, CA). This spirit has a<br />
complex, rewarding array of flavors. The aroma is very<br />
smoky and spicy, evoking barbecue. But on the tongue,<br />
this vibrant-gold reposado layers vanilla and orangepeel<br />
flavors with a warm hint of toffee, and the smoke<br />
only comes through on the finish. Comes packaged in a<br />
striking, gift-worthy square-shouldered bottle with impressive<br />
heft. Aged nine months.<br />
abv: 40% Price: $50<br />
90<br />
Magave Tequila Reposado (Mexico;<br />
Magave Tequila, San Francisco, CA). This<br />
reposado reads almost like a mezcal, showing lots of<br />
zingy jalapeno pepper and smoke, chased with just a<br />
touch of vanilla-tinged agave sweetness. Attractive bottle<br />
design with embossed bull logo on front and goldleaf<br />
design on back. Aged for eight months.<br />
abv: 40% Price: $36<br />
90<br />
Milagro Select Barrel Reserve (Mexico;<br />
William Grant and Sons, New York, NY).<br />
This limited-edition reposado comes in an exquisite<br />
bottle with a spiky glass piña (agave) blown inside. The<br />
restrained and mellow spirit has a mild honey aroma<br />
and flavor, with flashes of cinnamon and jalapeño pepper<br />
on the finish. Soft feel.<br />
abv: 40% Price: $57<br />
Tributo A Mi Padre Tequila (Mexico; In-<br />
90 novation Spirits, Newport Beach, CA).<br />
A beautiful story accompanies this Tequila: the name<br />
translates as “Tribute To My Father.” This pale gold, addictively<br />
sippable reposado does justice to the memory<br />
of Hector Barrero Sr., melding notes of wildflowers,<br />
honey, custard and pears. Despite a bit of alcohol sting,<br />
this spirit is soft and light. Best Buy.<br />
abv: 40% Price: $29<br />
Tequila Ocho Reposado (Mexico; Alta-<br />
90 mar Brands, Corona del Mar, CA). The<br />
aroma on this single-estate Tequila is reminiscent of a<br />
very lightly peated whiskey, mingling smoke and pepper<br />
with a light caramel note. The flavors tend toward custard<br />
and agave sweetness, spiked with pepper and mint.<br />
Earthy, smoky and peppery notes accelerate on the long<br />
finish. Light, silky feel.<br />
abv: 40% Price: $50<br />
90<br />
Voodoo Tiki Tequila Reposado (Mexico:<br />
Tiki Tequila of America, Lighthouse Point,<br />
FL). Tiki-philes will exclaim over the whimsical bottle<br />
with a green tiki figurine inside and capped with a<br />
green wax seal. The light gold spirit itself, aged six to<br />
eight months, features zesty citrus, piquant pepper, and<br />
a long, elegant vanilla finish. It’s a natural for tiki classics<br />
like El Diablo (combined with crème de cassis and<br />
ginger beer).<br />
abv: 40% Price: $50<br />
89<br />
Azunia Tequila Reposado (Mexico; Intersect<br />
Beverage LLC, San Clemente, CA).<br />
64 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012<br />
In this lowlands Tequila, fruity and peppery flavors<br />
weave harmoniously into the elongated finish. This spirit<br />
would be particularly welcome in a paloma or other<br />
citrus-forward cocktails. Rested in oak for eight months.<br />
abv: 40% Price: $35<br />
89<br />
Mejor Reposado Tequila (Mexico; Mejor<br />
Tequila Company, Los Altos, CA). This<br />
bright, light-gold spirit has a luxuriously fresh, fruity<br />
scent, like caramel drizzled over apple slices. The flavors<br />
are complex and mellow, morphing from grassy<br />
and herbal to lemon, hazelnut and cocoa on the finish.<br />
This single-estate highlands Tequila has a bit of alcoholic<br />
heat, but that wouldn’t matter lightened in a margarita<br />
or other citrusy cocktail.<br />
abv: 40% Price: $43<br />
88<br />
Lunazul Tequila Reposado (Mexico;<br />
Heaven Hill, Bardstown, KY). After a hint of<br />
agave sweetness, this spirit is fairly smoky on the palate,<br />
chased by a fruity note. Overall, this light-gold Tequila<br />
has a soft feel, although there’s a bit of alcohol bite, too.<br />
abv: 40% Price: $23<br />
88<br />
Milagro Tequila Reposado (Mexico; William<br />
Grant and Sons, New York, NY). This<br />
pale straw-colored spirit has a soft, fruity aroma with a<br />
hint of green bell pepper. On the palate, look for jalapeño<br />
pepper and oaky, tannic notes and a gentle vanilla<br />
finish. Velvety feel.<br />
abv: 40% Price: $29<br />
87<br />
Siembra Azul Tequila Reposado (Mexico;<br />
Suro International Importers, Philadelphia,<br />
PA). Aged for just three months, this reposado<br />
reads almost like a perky blanco. It features lots of jalapeño<br />
pepper, smoothed out with light honeyed notes<br />
and it finishes with a touch of oak tannin astringency.<br />
Would make a good margarita. Aged for three months.<br />
abv: 40% Price: $40<br />
Tequila Corazon Reposado (Mexico;<br />
87 Gemini Spirits & <strong>Wine</strong>, Chicago, IL). This<br />
light-gold reposado has a funky, overripe aroma and flavors<br />
that lean toward green pepper, sweetened with a<br />
drizzle of agave and nice sprinkle of baking spices on<br />
the finish. Any cocktail dosed with lime would really<br />
perk up this spirit.<br />
abv: 40% Price: $32<br />
85<br />
Peligroso Tequila Reposado 42 (Peligroso<br />
Spirits, San Clemente, CA). At 42% abv,<br />
this spirit is distilled hotter than Peligroso’s standard 80<br />
proof line. Although there’s been something of a mania<br />
for higher-proof spirits recently, the extra alcohol<br />
doesn’t do this reposado any favors, bringing forward<br />
notes of smoke, oregano and resin. Consider opting for<br />
Peligroso’s fruity standard-issue reposado instead.<br />
abv: 42% Price: $50<br />
82<br />
Regional Reposado Tequila (Mexico; Intersect<br />
Beverage LLC, San Clemente,<br />
CA). Although this lowlands Tequila rested in oak for<br />
six months, the spirit shows practically no color or aroma<br />
from its time in barrels. The flavor has notes of resin,<br />
with a light floral or herbal finish, and a flash of alcoholic<br />
heat on the tongue.<br />
abv: 40% Price: $20<br />
Tequila Oro Azul Reposado (Mexico; 21st<br />
82 Century Spirits, Commerce, CA). This<br />
highlands Tequila has a funky vegetal scent and herbaceous<br />
flavors that combine oregano, resin and faint agave<br />
sweetness. It does come in a distinctive, bright-blue<br />
pyramid-shaped bottle.<br />
abv: 40% Price: $27
BEER<br />
STOCKING UP FOR SUMMER<br />
With summer finally in sight, now is the<br />
time to start stocking up on some of<br />
today’s refreshing beer styles: light lagers,<br />
pale ales, and easy-drinking IPAs. But perhaps<br />
the most iconic selection for the season is a<br />
wheat beer, a deliciously light and yet oh-so-satisfying<br />
glass of gold that is sure to quench your<br />
thirst while simultaneously offering complexity<br />
and depth of flavor.<br />
Belgian wheat beers (aka witbier, witte, wit,<br />
white) are some of the most balanced, delicious<br />
and refreshing brews. They’re especially delicious<br />
during the summer months when their<br />
assertive carbonation, crisp citrus notes and<br />
delicate spice aromas provide a welcome counterbalance<br />
to warm weather.<br />
In the U.S., wheat beers have become increasingly<br />
popular, and many summer seasonals<br />
released from domestic brewers are made in<br />
that style. Normally pale to golden in color, with<br />
a substantial head, citrus-dominant wheat flavors<br />
and a briskly carbonated mouth, American ver-<br />
WHEAT BEER<br />
90<br />
Dock Street Bubbly Wit (Witbier; Dock<br />
Street Brewery, PA). Pours a golden-yellow<br />
color with a good amount of haze and a frothy white<br />
head that lingers. Rings of lace form in the glass after<br />
each sip. Aromas are typical for a wit: citrus, banana,<br />
clove and pepper. The medium-weight mouth is brimming<br />
with sweet citrus flavors, framed by notes of whole<br />
wheat bread, spice and lemongrass. Although the “Bubbly”<br />
part of the name came from the brewery’s use of<br />
Champagne yeast in this beer, it’s appropriate for this<br />
assertively carbonated selection.<br />
abv: 8.25% Price: $12/750 ml<br />
90<br />
Port City Optimal Wit (Witbier; Port City<br />
Brewing Company, VA). For full review see<br />
page 10.<br />
abv: 5.0% Price: $11/12 oz 6 pack<br />
89<br />
Samuel Adams Summer Ale (Americanstyle<br />
Wheat Ale; Boston Beer Company,<br />
MA). A tell-tale sign that summer’s finally here is when<br />
your favorite local watering hole has updated their Sam<br />
Seasonal tap to Summer Ale. A slightly hazy, golden<br />
apricot color in the glass, this easy-drinking, warmweather<br />
beer offers attractive notes of lemon, bread<br />
dough, allspice and a pinch of white pepper. Flavors<br />
of toasted wheat and lemon flesh out the mildly grainy,<br />
textured palate. Refreshing, with vibrant carbonation<br />
and a clean finish accented by hints of citrus pith.<br />
abv: 5.35% Price: $8/12 oz 6 pack<br />
sions often take traditional European styles and<br />
add their own twist: a unique spice, an unusual<br />
hop, a special brewing technique.<br />
Note the proper way to pour these brews.<br />
Because many wheat beers are bottle conditioned,<br />
it is common to find some sediment at<br />
the bottom of the bottle. Pour half of the beer<br />
and then swirl the remaining liquid in the bottle<br />
before emptying what remains into your glass.<br />
This way, any of the delicious yeast sediment that<br />
might have settled to the bottom of the bottle<br />
can be properly enjoyed.<br />
A perfect partner for light fare like salads and<br />
grilled chicken or fish, enjoy your favorite wheat<br />
beer while summer lasts.<br />
But if wheat beers aren’t your thing, we also<br />
offer a handful of reviews for other seasonallyappropriate<br />
styles: pale ales and American IPAs.<br />
There are many more excellent choices available<br />
than what’s included here, so be sure to check<br />
out your local distributor for the latest releases.<br />
Prost! —Lauren Buzzeo<br />
88<br />
Boulevard Unfiltered Wheat Beer (American-style<br />
Wheat Ale; Boulevard Brewing<br />
Company, MO). A soft floral character permeates the<br />
nose of this classic Midwest wheat beer. It pours quite<br />
hazy and light golden-yellow in color with a frothy white<br />
head. The yeast and grain aromas are in the forefront of<br />
the bouquet, while the vibrant mouth offers juicy citrus<br />
notes that end on a slightly bitter note. Alongside the<br />
citrus-fruit core are flavors of banana and bread dough,<br />
fleshing out the medium-bodied mouth with a slightly<br />
creamy texture. A refreshing selection you can enjoy all<br />
day long.<br />
abv: 4.5% Price: $8/12 oz 6 pack<br />
88<br />
Uinta Hazel Organic Amber Wheat Ale<br />
(American-style Wheat Ale; Uinta Brewing<br />
Co., UT). There’s a bright hop streak to this ale,<br />
lifting the moderately malty nose and mouth. Notes<br />
of raw dough and red fruits, like mild plum and small<br />
berries, complement the caramel malt aromas and flavors.<br />
Approachable and balanced, with a medium body,<br />
a round mouthfeel that’s lifted by lively carbonation and<br />
an easy finish.<br />
abv: 4.0% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack<br />
86<br />
Barrel Trolley Belgian White (Witbier;<br />
World Brews, NY). Although this isn’t the<br />
most complex wit, it’s well-made and very drinkable,<br />
with the classic characteristics of a wheaty core jazzed<br />
up by accents of citrus peel, coriander and peppery<br />
spice. The mouth is light in body and highly carbonated,<br />
and there’s a crisp edge to the finish.<br />
abv: 5.4% Price: $8/12 oz 6 pack<br />
86<br />
Hopper Whitman Belgian White (Witbier;<br />
World Brews, NY). Hopper Whitman is a value<br />
line, and this addition to the lineup offers great quality<br />
for the price. It’s lively and approachable, with faint<br />
aromas of spicy yeast and mandarin orange rind. There<br />
is a faint hop presence to the mouth, which adds a bit<br />
of depth to its otherwise straightforward wheat character<br />
and helps to stretch out the finish. A session-ready<br />
selection. Best Buy.<br />
abv: 5.4% Price: $6/12 oz 6 pack<br />
PALE ALE<br />
89<br />
Ninkasi Spring Reign Ale (American Pale<br />
Ale; Ninkasi Brewing, OR). This hazy-gold<br />
colored beer pours with a frothy white head and leaves<br />
a nice rim of lacing behind with each sip. Light aromas<br />
of clean malt and grass lead the way with glimmers of<br />
orange and white melon on the back. Surprising husky<br />
grain flavors dominate in the mouth, followed closely by<br />
a fair amount of astringency on the dry finish.<br />
abv: 6.0% Price: $4/22 oz<br />
86<br />
Cable Car Small Batch Pale Ale (American<br />
Pale Ale; Cable Car Brewing Co., NY).<br />
Faint aromas of grassy hops, lemony citrus and fresh<br />
mint leaves add character to the otherwise bready malt<br />
core of this light orange brew. Easy drinking with a light,<br />
effervescent mouth and a clean grain finish. Balanced<br />
and refreshing; a nice choice for summertime.<br />
abv: 5.3% Price: $7/12 oz 6 pack<br />
AMERICAN IPA<br />
89<br />
Maui Brewing Big Swell IPA (American<br />
IPA; Maui Brewing, HI). Sweet and bitter all<br />
at once, it’s like a rollercoaster for your senses with the<br />
two forces seemingly going back and forth on which one<br />
will take the lead. The bouquet is all fresh, sweet, citrus<br />
fruit aromas, while the medium-weight mouth is loaded<br />
with rich, toasty malt flavors followed by a sticky, astringent<br />
finish.<br />
abv: 6.2% Price: $9/6 pack cans<br />
89<br />
Sam Adams Latitude 48 IPA (American<br />
IPA; The Boston Beer Co., MA). An interesting<br />
IPA brewed with hops from top growing regions<br />
located close to the 48th latitude. This beer seems to be<br />
lacking a bit of fresh citrus flavor in the hop profile, with<br />
earthy spice and hop oil notes dominating the overall<br />
character. The sweet caramel and toasty malt flavors fill<br />
the mouth, with crisp carbonation and a smooth, rich<br />
finish.<br />
abv: 6.0% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>Mag.com | 65