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Eat: Like a local<br />
42<br />
Gayatri<br />
Restaurant<br />
The staggering range of cuisines in <strong>Singapore</strong> is a result of its history as a magnet for<br />
immigrants from all over Asia – the earliest form of fusion. The Indians, for instance,<br />
thriftily plonked fish heads into saffron-tinged sauces and created the now iconic<br />
fish-head curry, a dish not found in Mother India, but available in <strong>Little</strong> India favourite<br />
Gayatri Restaurant (122 Race Course Road, +65 6291 1011, www.gayatrirestaurant.<br />
com), where you should learn from a local to eat using your hands.<br />
Long Beach (www.longbeachseafood.com.sg) has been around for as long as anyone<br />
can remember, and judging from the weekend crowds of multi-generational families at<br />
their outlets around the city, it will remain for a long time to come. Concentrate on the<br />
huge Sri Lankan chilli crabs or the famous black-pepper crab. Another favourite crab<br />
shack, serving a similar menu, is No Signboard Seafood (www.nosignboardseafood.<br />
com) – of the four locations in <strong>Singapore</strong>, the Geylang outlet has the most personality.<br />
Combining the flavours of their Chinese and Malay heritage – and plundering from<br />
Indian, Indonesian and Thai kitchens – the Peranakans blend fresh lemongrass, pandan<br />
leaves, shrimp paste, coconut, tropical fruits and vegetables to create a richly layered<br />
cuisine of stews, curries and elaborate desserts. The Blue Ginger Restaurant (97<br />
Tanjong Pagar Rd, +65 6222 3928, www.theblueginger.com), a two-storey shophouse,<br />
offers a menu filled with all of the classics. Chef Willin Low’s chic Wild Rocket (10a<br />
Upper Wilkie Rd, +65 6339 9448, www.wildrocket.com.sg) restaurant gives classic<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong>an dishes a modern, multi-textured twist. His laksa pesto linguine with tiger<br />
prawns and quail eggs is a show-stealer. In recent years Duxton Hill, near Chinatown,<br />
has been flooded with a wave of chic European-style bistros, but Wok & Barrel (13<br />
Duxton Hill, +65 6220 0595) brings in local flavour. Reimagined stall classics (‘Wok’)<br />
are paired with ciders, lagers and ales (‘Barrel’).<br />
Kopi, kaya<br />
toast & eggs<br />
Don’t leave <strong>Singapore</strong> without trying...<br />
1 <strong>Singapore</strong> chicken rice<br />
A simple yet beloved dish of succulent poached chicken<br />
paired with red chilli sauce and rice steamed with ginger,<br />
garlic and chicken stock.<br />
2 Coffee and tea, <strong>Singapore</strong> style<br />
Straight ‘kopi’ or ‘teh’ contains both sugar and condensed<br />
milk. If this is too sweet for you, order it kosong<br />
(without sugar) or o kosong (straight and bitter).<br />
3 Kaya toast and eggs<br />
This local breakfast favourite is a little like <strong>Singapore</strong>an<br />
soldiers: delicious coconut egg jam that is spread on toast,<br />
with accompanying soft-boiled eggs.<br />
4 <strong>Black</strong> pepper crab<br />
It’s difficult to go past the world-famous chilli crab, but<br />
you’d be missing out if you didn’t also sample the black<br />
pepper crab, butter crab or crab bee hoon.<br />
5 Bak Kut Teh<br />
While the direct translation of bak kut teh (meat bone<br />
tea!) leaves a bit to be desired, this Chinese soup is<br />
far more delicious than it sounds, consisting of meaty<br />
pork ribs simmered in a delicious broth infused with star<br />
anise, cinnamon, cloves, fennel and garlic.<br />
43<br />
Bak Kut Teh<br />
<strong>Black</strong> Pepper<br />
Crab
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