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Singapore Little Black Book

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over Dunearn Rd<br />

Timah Rd<br />

Rd Stevens Rd<br />

aterson Rd<br />

Go here for... Indian food and culture, 24-hour shopping,<br />

backpacker nightlife and Hindu temples<br />

Balmoral Rd<br />

Scotts Rd<br />

Mustafa Centre<br />

Scotts Rd<br />

Dunearn Rd<br />

Under colonial rule, the area east of the <strong>Singapore</strong> River was designated a<br />

settlement for Indian immigrants and workers, a legacy that has been enshrined in<br />

the district’s more recent name, <strong>Little</strong> India. Today, it’s one of the most distinctive<br />

places in <strong>Singapore</strong>, a bustling, chaotic, sensory overload of people, shops, traffic,<br />

colours, smells and tastes, and largely unchanged for decades. To some extent it<br />

has retained its status as cultural centre for the Indian and Hindu community in<br />

<strong>Singapore</strong> – the majority are Tamils from South India – but there are other races and<br />

religions in <strong>Little</strong> India. A day spent wandering its streets will confirm how rich and<br />

fascinating this small area is.<br />

Stroll by the streets that surround Tekka Market 1 (664 Buffalo Rd), an<br />

unmissable landmark that has been a go-to community resource – wet market,<br />

hawker centre, custom tailor shops, Indian fashion boutiques – for over half a<br />

century. To pick up just about anything you could be looking for, Mustafa<br />

Centre 2 (145 Syed Alwi Rd, +65 6295 5855, www.mustafa.com.sg) is open<br />

24-hours, offering 14,000 sqm of bargains, not to mention a rooftop restaurant<br />

and supermarket. It’s a treasure trove of discount shopping, carrying everything<br />

from skincare and electronics to sari fabrics and luggage.<br />

Grange Rd<br />

Rd<br />

Bideford<br />

River Valley Rd<br />

Area guide<br />

<strong>Little</strong> India<br />

Orchard Rd<br />

Penang Rd<br />

22<br />

Newton Rd<br />

Rd<br />

Newton Flyover<br />

Thomson Rd<br />

Bukit Timah Rd<br />

Moulmein Rd<br />

<strong>Little</strong> India<br />

Hampshire Rd<br />

Northumberland Rd<br />

5<br />

Prinsep St<br />

Bras Basah Rd<br />

5<br />

Race Course Rd<br />

Buffalo Rd<br />

4<br />

1<br />

1<br />

5<br />

3<br />

3<br />

Chander Rd<br />

9<br />

Serangoon Rd<br />

Sungei Rd<br />

Race Course Ln<br />

4<br />

4<br />

Clive St<br />

Dunlop St<br />

Middle Rd<br />

Roberts Ln<br />

Kinte Rd<br />

Cuff Rd<br />

Dickson Rd<br />

7<br />

Perak Rd<br />

Baboo Ln<br />

Hindoo Rd<br />

Chitty Rd<br />

Jin Besar<br />

Lembu Rd<br />

Rowell Rd<br />

Upper Weld Rd<br />

Bencoolen Link<br />

Bencoolen St<br />

Waterloo St<br />

Queen St<br />

6<br />

Victoria St<br />

2<br />

Veerasamy Rd<br />

Kampong Kapor Rd<br />

8<br />

Rochor Rd<br />

North Bridge St<br />

Tessensohn Rd<br />

Sri Veeramakaliamman<br />

7 6<br />

2<br />

6<br />

1<br />

Jin Besar<br />

23<br />

Beach Rd<br />

Serangoon Rd<br />

Jin Pinang<br />

Haji Lane<br />

Bati Ln<br />

Ophir Rd<br />

l Highway<br />

Jin Besar<br />

While in this cultural enclave, don’t pass up the opportunity to dine. Race<br />

Course Road is filled with some of the neighbourhood’s best options, including<br />

the famous Banana Leaf Apolo 3 (54-58 Race Course Rd, +65 6293 8682,<br />

thebananaleafapolo.com), often tied with Muthu’s Curry 4 (138 Race Course Rd,<br />

+65 6392 1722, www.muthuscurry.com) down the block for the best fish-head<br />

curry. For something different, Mustard 5 (32 Race Course Rd, +65 6297 8422,<br />

www.mustardsingapore.com) serves Punjabi and Bengali fare; try the prawn creamy<br />

3<br />

7 curry served in a green coconut.<br />

8<br />

8<br />

2<br />

Don’t miss...<br />

Sri Veeramakaliamman<br />

Temple<br />

Dedicated to the goddess Kali,<br />

<strong>Little</strong> India’s most popular Hindu<br />

temple was constructed by Bengali<br />

immigrants and completed in 1881,<br />

but like all such monuments in<br />

<strong>Singapore</strong> has gone through many<br />

extensions and renovations over<br />

the years.<br />

141 Serangoon Rd. +65 6295 4538.<br />

www.sriveeramakaliamman.com. 9<br />

Prince of Wales<br />

Victoria St<br />

Arab St<br />

4<br />

6 7<br />

9<br />

North Bridge Rd<br />

Muscat St<br />

10<br />

Kandahar St<br />

1<br />

Sultan Gate<br />

2<br />

Beach Rd<br />

Aliwal St<br />

Jin Sultan<br />

Baghdad St Pahang St<br />

Dunlop Road is where you will find the backpacker crew, checking in at places<br />

like the InnCrowd 3 6 (73 Dunlop St, +65 6296 9169, www.the-inncrowd.com) and<br />

Prince of Wales 7 (101 Dunlop St, +65 6299 0130, www.pow.com.sg) – which<br />

doubles as a laidback watering hole and live music venue. In recent years, more<br />

upmarket accommodation has popped up in these parts, including Wanderlust 8<br />

(2 Dickson Rd, +65 6396 3322, wanderlusthotel.com), a trendy boutique hotel with<br />

themed rooms.<br />

8<br />

Ophir Rd<br />

Republic Blvd<br />

Boon Keng<br />

Nicoll Highway<br />

Craw<br />

5<br />

R

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