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Rd<br />
Zion Rd<br />
oral R<br />
Outram Rd<br />
Scotts Rd<br />
Rd<br />
Bideford<br />
Dunearn Rd<br />
Orchard Rd<br />
Chin Sweet Rd<br />
N<br />
n Rd<br />
Chinatown<br />
<strong>Little</strong><br />
India<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong><br />
<strong>Little</strong> <strong>Black</strong><br />
<strong>Book</strong><br />
River Valley Rd<br />
Penang Rd<br />
Kampong Bahru Dr<br />
Cantonment Rd<br />
Havelock Rd<br />
Cross St<br />
Robinson Rd<br />
Church St<br />
Hill St<br />
Shenton Way<br />
Jin Besar<br />
Tessensohn Rd<br />
Rochor Rd<br />
Serangoon Rd<br />
Bras Basah<br />
& Bugis<br />
Jin Besar<br />
Kampong<br />
Glam<br />
Raffles Blvd<br />
Beach Rd<br />
Ophir Rd<br />
Victoria St<br />
Republic Blvd<br />
Get lost and<br />
find the real<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong><br />
Boon<br />
C
0 6km<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong><br />
Cruise Centre<br />
Sentosa<br />
Marina Bay<br />
Cruise Centre<br />
Jurong Island<br />
Holland Village <strong>Little</strong> India<br />
Dempsey Hill Kampong Glam<br />
Orchard Road<br />
Bras Basah & Bugis<br />
Chinatown<br />
Tiong Bahru Marina Bay<br />
Labrador Park<br />
Katong & Joo Chiat<br />
Jurong Bird Park<br />
Tuas Second Link<br />
2<br />
MacRitchie<br />
Reservoir<br />
Jurong<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong><br />
Tampines<br />
Changi<br />
Bukit Timah<br />
Nature Reserve<br />
Ang Mo Kio<br />
Lim Chu Kang<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong> Zoo<br />
& Night Safari<br />
Pulau Ubin<br />
Mandai<br />
Sungei Buloh<br />
Woodlands<br />
Johor Causeway<br />
Malaysia<br />
Sembawang<br />
Get lost!<br />
The big question will always remain, does size matter?<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong> has managed to prove that even the small can<br />
leave you impressed. Perhaps fuelled by a geographical kind<br />
of Napoleon complex, the little red dot’s attempt to<br />
overcompensate has succeeded in making the city stand out<br />
in the crowd. This overachiever has been looking to outplay<br />
not only its Asian neighbours but the rest of the world, by<br />
having a never-ending slew of ‘biggests’and ‘firsts’. But<br />
it’s time to look past the largest observation wheel and<br />
wander beyond the world’s first night safari, and dig deeper<br />
into what this city is really all about.<br />
It’s fair enough that the graffiti-free walls, manicured<br />
expressways and squeaky clean streets can fool visitors<br />
into thinking they’re not in South-East Asia anymore,<br />
but don’t let the clean and tidy exterior dissuade you<br />
from scratching beneath the surface. At the end of the<br />
day, it’s not the size of the city, it’s about all of the<br />
multicultural, ethnically diverse and rapidly developing<br />
layers that have been packed in for you to explore.<br />
So go, get lost – and find the real <strong>Singapore</strong>.<br />
$ in the Time Out <strong>Singapore</strong> <strong>Little</strong> <strong>Black</strong> <strong>Book</strong> represent S$ (<strong>Singapore</strong> Dollars)<br />
Guide Editor Alexandra Karplus Creative Director Phil Bunting Group Editor Nick Dent<br />
Contributors Vanessa Mulquiney, Laura Venuto, Clare Brundle, Emily Bunting, Sandy Koh, Josh<br />
Crowley, Sandra Leong, Group Publisher Justin Etheridge Commercial Director Michael Rodrigues<br />
Print & Digital Publishing Pty Ltd (ABN 50 125 441 812) under the authority and in collaboration with Time Out International<br />
Limited London UK. Time Out ® is the registered trademark of Time Out Group Limited, London UK. The right to use<br />
the trademark, name and logo of “Time Out” are licensed from Time Out Group Limited London UK, © 2010. Printed by<br />
Webstar, Bluestar Group, 83 Derby St, Silverwater NSW. Reproduction in whole or in part is not permitted without the<br />
written permission of the publisher and Time Out Group Limited. The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for<br />
errors or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication<br />
are not necessarily the views of the publishers.<br />
This book has been produced by Print & Digital Publishing Pty Ltd’s Custom Guide Division on behalf of the <strong>Singapore</strong><br />
Tourism Board. For enquiries on the book call +61 2 8239 5990 or visit adcentre.au.timeout.com<br />
Info is correct at time of printing but may be subject to changes.<br />
For the latest info on <strong>Singapore</strong> visit Your<strong>Singapore</strong>.com<br />
3
Your mission<br />
...should you choose to accept it, is to get lost in <strong>Singapore</strong>. It’s easier<br />
than you think! Here’s an overview to get you started...<br />
The city-state’s basic division of districts still reflects the original Town Plan, as<br />
laid out by Stamford Raffles and Philip Jackson in 1822. The areas of most interest<br />
to visitors are self-contained enough to make walking the best way to get about. If the<br />
heat and humidity prove too exhausting, there’s always the MRT – <strong>Singapore</strong>’s cheap<br />
and efficient train system – or grab a taxi (short trips typically cost under S$10, but<br />
be aware surcharges apply during peak hours).<br />
Start off by getting lost in Tiong Bahru’s (p16) wet market and continue by playing<br />
witness to the neighbourhood’s gentrification at the latest trendy cafés. A wander<br />
through the streets of Katong (p30) will introduce a melting pot of cultures, including<br />
the rich Peranakan heritage. The former British army barracks at Dempsey Hill (p14)<br />
are now filled with some of the city’s top restaurants and furniture shops in a rich<br />
tropical setting. A mix of Chinese history, along with trendy boutiques and bars can<br />
be sampled in Chinatown (p20). Head over to the streets of <strong>Little</strong> India (p22) to<br />
experience a wonderful multi-sensory overload.<br />
The Arab enclave of <strong>Singapore</strong>, Kampong Glam (p26), is where you can learn<br />
about some of the city-state’s Malay/Arab background, before perusing the shops<br />
filled with offbeat designer fashion on Haji Lane. Holland Village (p12) has a<br />
mixed bag of modern restaurants, late-night desserts and hawker fare, along with<br />
quality watering holes; and Bras Basah & Bugis (p24) is home to some of the top<br />
contemporary art.<br />
Some of the latest additions to the city can be found on Sentosa (p18), including<br />
Universal Studios, the hotel-entertainment-hub of Resorts World Sentosa and the<br />
recently opened W Hotel. Marina Bay (p28) is home to the globally-renowned Marina<br />
Bay Sands, along with a plethora of celebrity-chef restaurants (p38) and recently<br />
opened futuristic environmental park Gardens by the Bay.<br />
While you’re in town, make sure to shop your heart out (p32) at the newest malls<br />
on Orchard Road or try on the threads being sewn together by local designers; catch<br />
cutting-edge DJs (p45) at some of the best clubs in the region; and rest your head<br />
(p46) in a bed that fits your budget.<br />
Garden City, <strong>Little</strong> Red Dot and, unfortunately, the ‘fine’ city, are all fair titles.<br />
So, soak up the lush greenery, take advantage of the compact and easy-to-navigate<br />
streets, and leave your chewing gum at home. There is way more to this city than<br />
the clichés suggest and only one way to experience it – get out there and get lost!<br />
4 5
Annual events<br />
Plan your visit around <strong>Singapore</strong>’s festive seasons<br />
Jan-Mar<br />
Chinese New Year Festivities<br />
This is the biggest festival of the year.<br />
Activities take place all over town but are<br />
centred on Chinatown with street-lighting<br />
ceremonies, the spectacular Chingay<br />
parade, lion dance competition and<br />
magnificent fireworks. Jan-Feb<br />
Art Stage <strong>Singapore</strong><br />
Art Stage <strong>Singapore</strong> celebrates the<br />
dynamic visual art of the Asian region.<br />
More than 100 galleries will be exhibiting<br />
works by more than 600 artists over<br />
the three days. Special events include a<br />
range of artist talks. Jan<br />
Mosaic Music Festival<br />
The Esplanade Concert Hall and the<br />
6<br />
Mosaic Club are the two places to be<br />
during the ten days of the Mosaic Music<br />
Festival. From pop to world music to jazz,<br />
this festival has it all. Mar<br />
Timbre Rock and Roots Festival<br />
Timbre Rock and Roots Festival will rock<br />
Marina Promenade with an impressive<br />
line-up of local and international rock and<br />
blues acts. Previous headliners include<br />
Bob Dylan and Earth, Wind & Fire. Mar<br />
Apr–Jun<br />
Chinese New Year<br />
Shakespeare in the Park<br />
Each year Fort Canning Park becomes<br />
a stage for one of the bard’s classics,<br />
acted with panache by the <strong>Singapore</strong><br />
Repertory Theatre.<br />
Apr-May<br />
F1 Grand Prix<br />
World Gourmet Summit<br />
Cook and dine with the culinary masters<br />
at this summit spread across the city’s<br />
top restaurants and bars.<br />
Apr-May<br />
Great <strong>Singapore</strong> Sale<br />
Need we say more? Shopping,<br />
the national obsession (after<br />
eating and talking about eating)<br />
goes into overdrive. May-Jul<br />
Jul-Sep<br />
Night Festival<br />
Aerial performances, music, dance and<br />
installation light up the public green<br />
spaces of the <strong>Singapore</strong> Management<br />
University for this annual festival. Also<br />
look out for other special events at<br />
museums across the city.<br />
Aug-Sep<br />
Hari Raya Puasa<br />
To celebrate the end of the month-<br />
long fasting period of Ramadan,<br />
the streets of Kampong Glam come<br />
alive with roadside bazaars and<br />
traditional Malay food.<br />
Aug-Sep<br />
Mid-Autumn Festival<br />
This Chinese Festival in honour of the<br />
full moon is celebrated with colourful<br />
paper lanterns and street lights. The<br />
food of the festival, mooncakes,<br />
abound in Chinatown. Aug-Sep<br />
7<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong> F1 Grand Prix<br />
Expect high-speed action on the Marina<br />
Bay F1 street circuit, replete with a host<br />
of international headliners, world-class<br />
entertainment and high-glam parties.<br />
Late Sep<br />
Oct-Dec<br />
Deepavali<br />
<strong>Little</strong> India’s Serangoon Road is artfully<br />
illuminated for this Hindu festival<br />
symbolising the triumph of good over evil<br />
and light over darkness. Late Oct<br />
Christmas in the Tropics<br />
Orchard Road and Marina Bay are<br />
dressed in Yuletide finery from mid-<br />
November, marking the beginning of<br />
Christmas celebrations. Mid Nov-Dec<br />
Year-end parties<br />
There’s no time for parties like the end<br />
of the year. In early December you’ve got<br />
dance festival Zouk Out, then on New<br />
Year’s Eve there are countdown parties<br />
galore at Marina Bay and Siloso Beach.<br />
Dec-Jan<br />
Want more?<br />
New Year at<br />
Marina Bay<br />
Head to Your<strong>Singapore</strong>.com for the<br />
very latest events and festivals
Got Singlish lah!<br />
A brief guide to <strong>Singapore</strong>’s own pidgin English...<br />
It’s not surprising that <strong>Singapore</strong> is the modern-day Babel, with four ‘official’<br />
languages – English, Chinese, Tamil and Malay. Not to mention a host of unofficial<br />
languages, and <strong>Singapore</strong>’s unique gift to the English-speaking world, Singlish – a<br />
pidgin English that draws heavily from Chinese grammar translated back to English,<br />
spoken with the cadences and the speed of Malay, and peppered with Hokkien,<br />
Malay and some Tamil expressions.<br />
Singlish adds ‘lah’ to the end of sentences or exclamations for emphasis, such<br />
as telling an impatient person to ‘Wait, lah!’. There are other versions of this – ‘lor’,<br />
‘meh’ and ‘mah’ being favourites. Sentences are often abbreviated until all that’s<br />
left is the verb. In answer to a query about driving to the airport, a taxi driver might<br />
reply ‘can’ or ‘cannot’. English expressions have also taken on new meanings in<br />
Singlish. ‘Spoilt’ means broken, as in ‘this camera is spoilt’, and ‘to keep’ means<br />
‘put away’ – thus ‘keep the clothes’ would mean ‘put the clothes away’.<br />
8<br />
A few key phrases...<br />
Ah beng A pejorative term to denote<br />
a male of little class or education, with<br />
limited horizons (a bogan).<br />
Ah lian Female form of ah beng.<br />
Aiyah/Aiyoh Chinese equivalent of ‘Oh<br />
no!’ or ‘Oh dear!’<br />
Ang moh Literally means ‘red hair’. A<br />
commonly used term for Caucasians.<br />
Atas (“Ah-tuss”) To describe superiority,<br />
often used in reference to people who<br />
are arrogant<br />
Aunty/Uncle Pronounced ‘Anteee’<br />
or ‘Uncaaal’, the terms are used as a<br />
generic form of address for middle-aged<br />
or elderly women/men. Referring to<br />
older <strong>Singapore</strong>ans in this way will give<br />
an ‘ang moh’ a lot of credibilty.<br />
Bo pian lei Hokkien term to mean<br />
that there is no choice.<br />
Catch no ball Signifies a lack of<br />
understanding ie ‘I don’t get it’.<br />
Cheem Hokkien term meaning something<br />
is profound or intellectual.<br />
Is it? (or issit?) Interchangeable<br />
with the English expression ‘Really?’ or<br />
‘Is that so?’<br />
Kopitiam Literally means ‘coffee shop’.<br />
Kiasu (“Kee-ah-soo”) Literally, to be<br />
afraid of losing or missing out on<br />
something. It’s a defining characteristic<br />
of many <strong>Singapore</strong>ans, who will rush for<br />
early-bird event tickets, opening-night<br />
tables at new restaurants or exploit any<br />
other opportunity to get ahead.<br />
Lah/leh Tagged at the end of a<br />
sentence as an exclamation except in<br />
questions.<br />
Makan Malay term for eating<br />
Neh mind The Singlish equivalent of<br />
‘never mind’<br />
Shiok (“Shee-oak”) An expression<br />
conveying top quality or extreme pleasure.<br />
(Blur like) sotong The Malay<br />
word for squid or calamari, it also means<br />
forgetful, or not knowing what’s going on.<br />
Spoil market Someone who does his<br />
work so well that he makes everyone<br />
else look bad.<br />
Stone Used to convey lethargy or inactivity<br />
with no connection to drug use.<br />
9<br />
The <strong>Singapore</strong><br />
Traveller’s creed<br />
1<br />
I shall venture beyond<br />
Changi Airport.<br />
2<br />
I shall not limit myself to the<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong> Sling. It may be famous<br />
but there’s more fun to be had<br />
with a cloud-enveloped Nitro Dry<br />
Martini from the Tippling Club,<br />
or red hot Chilli Padi Mary from<br />
Astor Bar St Regis. Tippling Club,<br />
8D Dempsey Rd. +65 6475 2217.<br />
tipplingclub.com. Astor Bar, 29<br />
Tanglin Rd. +65 6506 6888.<br />
3<br />
I shall extend my family by<br />
several thousand people, by<br />
referring to all middle-aged<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong>an men and women as<br />
uncle and aunty.<br />
4<br />
I shall not leave <strong>Singapore</strong><br />
before discovering an appetite<br />
for 2am Sambal Stingray. Chomp<br />
Chomp, Stall 1, 20 Kensington<br />
Park Rd.<br />
5<br />
I shall party Ibiza-style at Zouk<br />
and Ku Dé Ta and end the night<br />
at late-night eatery Spize for a<br />
Milo Dinosaur and roti prata 409<br />
River Valley Rd. +65 6734 9194.<br />
spize.sg.<br />
6<br />
I shall understand <strong>Singapore</strong>’s<br />
secret food language: ‘Kopi<br />
O Kosong’ will deliver me a<br />
straight, bitter coffee.<br />
7<br />
I shall shop further than Orchard<br />
Road checking out independent<br />
shops and designers in places<br />
like Haji Lane (p27).
Holland<br />
Rd<br />
Commonwealth Ave<br />
ts<br />
Por do<br />
wn<br />
Coronation Rd Wes<br />
Holland<br />
Holland Rd<br />
Portsdown Ave<br />
West Coast Highway<br />
Rd<br />
Commonwealth Ave<br />
Coronation Rd Wes<br />
Holland Rd<br />
Queensway<br />
Holland Flyover<br />
Queensway<br />
Holland Village<br />
ts<br />
Por do<br />
wn<br />
Alexandra Rd<br />
Farrer Rd<br />
Commonwealth<br />
Portsdown Ave<br />
West Coast Highway<br />
on Rd<br />
Queensway<br />
Farrer Rd<br />
Holland Flyover<br />
Queensway<br />
Alexandra Rd<br />
West Coast<br />
Alexandra Rd<br />
Farrer Rd<br />
Commonwealth<br />
Holland Rd<br />
Highway<br />
on Rd<br />
Farrer Rd<br />
Holland Rd<br />
Henderson Rd<br />
Holland Rd<br />
Dempsey Hill<br />
Alexandra Rd<br />
West Coast<br />
Highway<br />
Tanglin Rd<br />
Cluny<br />
Telok Blangah Rd/Keppel Viaduct<br />
Rd<br />
Napier Rd<br />
Tanglin Rd<br />
Jin Bukit Merah<br />
Henderson Rd<br />
Henderson Rd<br />
ah Rd Wayang Satu Flyover Dunearn Rd<br />
Evans Rd<br />
Holland Rd<br />
Tanglin Rd<br />
Cluny<br />
Alexandra Rd<br />
Delta Rd<br />
Lower<br />
Telok Blangah Rd/Keppel Viaduct<br />
Rd<br />
Jin Bukit Merah<br />
Sentosa<br />
Gateway<br />
ah Rd Wayang Satu Flyover Dunearn Rd<br />
Evans Rd<br />
Lower Delta Rd Lower Delta Rd<br />
Napier Rd<br />
Tanglin Rd<br />
Grange Rd<br />
River Valley Rd<br />
Alexandra Rd<br />
Jin Bukit Merah<br />
Bukit Timah Rd<br />
Stevens Rd Stevens Rd<br />
Ganges Ave<br />
West Coast Highway<br />
Sentosa<br />
Gateway<br />
Paterson Rd<br />
Lower Delta Rd Lower Delta Rd<br />
Balmoral Rd<br />
Scotts Rd<br />
Grange Rd<br />
Grange Rd<br />
Tiong Bahru<br />
Henderson Rd<br />
Delta Rd<br />
Lower<br />
Kim Seng Rd<br />
River Valley Rd<br />
Jin Bukit Merah<br />
Zion Rd<br />
Bukit Timah Rd<br />
Outram Rd<br />
Scotts Rd<br />
Rd<br />
Bideford<br />
River Valley Rd<br />
Dunearn Rd<br />
Stevens Rd Stevens Rd<br />
Ganges Ave<br />
West Coast Highway<br />
Paterson Rd<br />
Kampong Bahru Dr<br />
Keppel Rd<br />
Sentosa<br />
Balmoral Rd<br />
Scotts Rd<br />
Orchard Rd<br />
Penang Rd<br />
Grange Rd<br />
Kim Seng Rd<br />
Zion Rd<br />
Chin Swee Rd<br />
Thomson Rd<br />
Newton Rd<br />
Newton Flyover<br />
Cantonment Rd<br />
Scotts Rd<br />
Rd<br />
Bideford<br />
River Valley Rd<br />
Outram Rd<br />
Dunearn Rd<br />
Kampong Bahru Dr<br />
Keppel Rd<br />
Thomson Rd<br />
Orchard Rd<br />
Penang Rd<br />
Havelock Rd<br />
Chin Swee Rd<br />
Chinatown<br />
Cross St<br />
Robinson Rd<br />
Thomson Rd<br />
Newton Rd<br />
Newton Flyover<br />
Cantonment Rd<br />
Bukit Timah Rd<br />
Church St<br />
Thomson Rd<br />
Hill St<br />
Havelock Rd<br />
Shenton Way<br />
Moulmein Rd<br />
Robinson Rd<br />
Bukit Timah Rd<br />
Rochor<br />
Cross St<br />
Church St<br />
Jin Besar<br />
Hill St<br />
Shenton Way<br />
Moulmein Rd<br />
Tessensohn Rd<br />
Rochor Rd<br />
Beach Rd<br />
<strong>Little</strong> India<br />
Serangoon Rd<br />
Rochor<br />
Ophir Rd<br />
Nicoll Highway<br />
Raffles Blvd<br />
Jin Besar<br />
Jin Besar<br />
Tessensohn Rd<br />
Rochor Rd<br />
Ophir Rd<br />
Beach Rd<br />
Serangoon Rd<br />
Victoria St<br />
Bras Basah<br />
& Bugis<br />
Republic Blvd<br />
Ophir Rd<br />
Nicoll Highway<br />
Raffles Blvd<br />
Boon Keng Rd<br />
Jin Besar<br />
Crawford St<br />
Republic Ave<br />
Victoria St<br />
Boon Keng Rd<br />
Crawford St<br />
pper Boon Keng Rd<br />
Republic Ave<br />
Geylang Rd<br />
Kampong Glam<br />
Ophir Rd<br />
Republic Blvd<br />
Marina Bay &<br />
Marina South<br />
pper Boon Keng Rd<br />
Sims Ave<br />
Sims Dr<br />
Geylang Rd<br />
Kallang Paya<br />
Lebar Expy<br />
Aljunied Rd<br />
Sims Ave<br />
Mountbatten Rd<br />
Sims Dr<br />
Kallang Paya<br />
Lebar Expy<br />
Aljunied Rd<br />
Sims Ave<br />
Geylang Rd<br />
Guillemard Rd<br />
Mountbatten Rd<br />
ya Lebar Rd<br />
Mountbatten Rd<br />
Sims Ave<br />
Geylang Rd<br />
Guillemard Rd<br />
Dunman Rd<br />
Tanjong Rhu Flyover Tanjong Rhu Flyover<br />
ya Lebar Rd<br />
Geylang Rd<br />
Dunman Rd<br />
Tanjong Katong Rd<br />
Mountbatten Rd<br />
Sims Ave<br />
Haig Rd<br />
Changi Rd<br />
Geylang Rd<br />
Tanjong Katong Rd<br />
Sims Ave<br />
Haig Rd<br />
Changi Rd<br />
Katong & Joo Chiat<br />
Still rd<br />
Amber Rd<br />
Amber Rd<br />
Mountbatten Rd<br />
Mountbatten Rd<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong><br />
by area<br />
Holland Village (p12)<br />
For restaurants and trendy shops<br />
Dempsey Hill (p14)<br />
For cafés, galleries and<br />
colonial chic<br />
Tiong Bahru (p16)<br />
For art deco charm<br />
Sentosa (p18)<br />
For beach resorts and family fun<br />
Chinatown (p20)<br />
For Chinese culture<br />
<strong>Little</strong> India (p22)<br />
For Indian food and Hindu temples<br />
Bras Basah & Bugis (p24)<br />
For souvenirs and museums<br />
Kampong Glam (p26)<br />
For Arab culture<br />
Marina Bay & Marina South (p28)<br />
For architectural marvels and<br />
attractions<br />
Katong & Joo Chiat (p30)<br />
For multicultural food<br />
Still rd
Area guide<br />
Holland Village<br />
Go here for... Bohemian atmosphere, knick-knacks, contemporary<br />
cuisine, and bars and small shops by budding entrepreneurs<br />
As the name implies, the Dutch were the first community in this neighbourhood,<br />
occupied by plantations and nurseries prior to settlement. The district was named in<br />
honour of early Dutch resident, architect Hugh Holland. The British Army followed and<br />
in the 1960s set up many of the terrace homes that now make up Chip Bee Gardens,<br />
a small enclave on Jalan Merah Saga, that has attracted many artists, writers and<br />
filmmakers in recent years – it’s considered the bohemian heart of the city.<br />
Still <strong>Singapore</strong>’s best-known expat district, Holland Village is filled with modern<br />
restaurants, bars and shops alongside old-style coffee shops and knick-knack<br />
stores. Small indoor-outdoor restaurants line Jalan Merah Saga, including Original<br />
Sin 1 (#01-62, 43 Jalan Merah Saga, +65 6475 5605, originalsin.com.sg), with<br />
a Mediterranean menu of all vegetarian cuisine; Bistro Petit Salut 2 (#01-54, 44<br />
Jalan Merah Saga, +65 6474 9788, aupetitsalut.com) for casual French fare; or<br />
traditional Thai dishes at Mai Thai 3 (#01-58, 44 Jalan Merah Saga, +65 6474<br />
3108, www.maithai.com.sg).<br />
12<br />
Holland Village<br />
Holland<br />
Rd<br />
Wala Wala<br />
Holland Village<br />
Lor Mambong<br />
7<br />
5<br />
7<br />
5<br />
Lor Liput<br />
Commonwealth Ave<br />
4<br />
9<br />
8<br />
6<br />
Holland Ave<br />
4 1<br />
9<br />
8<br />
6<br />
Holland<br />
3<br />
2<br />
3<br />
2<br />
1<br />
Taman Warna<br />
Jin Merah Saga Rd<br />
Jin Rumia<br />
Jin Kelabu Asap<br />
13<br />
Snap Shop<br />
2am:dessert bar<br />
Don’t miss...<br />
Holland Village<br />
Food Court<br />
For great local grub and<br />
some of the cheapest beer in<br />
town, Holland Village Food<br />
Court 9 (33 Lorong Liput)<br />
stays open around the clock.<br />
Trendy shops line Lorong Mambong. Check out Snap Shop 4 (1 Lor Mambong,<br />
+65 8199 6126, www.snapshopasia.com), a camera shop promoting analog<br />
photography in this digital age; or Antipodean 5 (27A Lorong Mambong, +65 6463<br />
7336, www.antipodeanshop.com), an all-things-girlie boutique on the second floor.<br />
Chill out in the bars, pubs and cafés at night when the road is closed to traffic. The<br />
local branch of Crystal Jade Kitchen 6 (2 Lorong Mambong, +65 6469 0300, www.<br />
crystaljade.com) serves their xiao long bao (soup dumpings) late into the night; and<br />
old-faithful two-floor watering hole Wala Wala 7 (31 Lorong Mambong, +65 6462<br />
4288, www.imaginings.com.sg) has been boasting a wide range of quality beers for<br />
over 20 years.<br />
A chic ante-room for sweet-toothed nighthawks can be found around the corner at<br />
2am:dessert bar 8 (21a Lorong Liput, +65 6291 9727, www.2amdessertbar.com),<br />
where modern desserts are paired with a carefully selected wine list.<br />
Hollan<br />
Queens
Area guide<br />
Dempsey Hill<br />
Go here for... Cafés, bars, restaurants, gourmet food shops,<br />
art galleries, antiques and colonial chic<br />
Dempsey Hill<br />
Tucked away near the Botanic Gardens and just a few minutes from Orchard Road,<br />
Dempsey Hill served as the British army barracks in colonial times and more recently<br />
as a base for the local military. These days, however, the refurbished enclave is filled<br />
with tropical trees and hosts some of the city’s top restaurants, cafés and galleries.<br />
The lush green setting is great for a relaxing weekend brunch. Stop by PS.Café 1<br />
(28B Harding Rd, +65 9070 8782, pscafe.com) and enjoy traditional eggs Benedict<br />
or their signature Brunch Burger, topped with Camembert, while overlooking the leafy<br />
environs. Another early-afternoon weekend dining option can be found over at House<br />
2 (8D Dempsey Rd, +65 6475 7787, www.dempseyhouse.com). Try the Asian sliders<br />
made with pork belly in steamed buns.<br />
All of this can be followed by some serious unwinding right upstairs at Beauty<br />
Emporium 3 (Blk 8D, Lvl 2, Dempsey Rd, +65 6479 0070, www.spa-esprit.com). The<br />
spa pays tribute to its charmingly verdant surroundings with a wide range of signature<br />
treatments that pluck their ingredients straight from the hand of Mother Nature.<br />
Gourmet grocery shopping can also take place in this neck of the woods. Shop for<br />
freshly ground coffee, organic ingredients from around the world or wander into the<br />
chilled cheese room at Jones the Grocer 4 (Blk 9, #01-12 Dempsey Rd, +65 6476<br />
1512, jonesthegrocer.com). A few blocks down, top cuts of meat and sausages are<br />
on display at Huber’s Butchery 5 (18A Dempsey Rd, +65 6737 1588, hubers.com.<br />
sg). Both spots have great lunch specials.<br />
14<br />
Qu<br />
RedDot Brewhouse<br />
Commonwealth<br />
Dempsey Hill<br />
Dempsey Rd<br />
11<br />
6<br />
9<br />
10<br />
2<br />
13<br />
3<br />
3<br />
9<br />
Dempsey Rd<br />
Dempsey Rd<br />
7<br />
Dempsey Rd<br />
1<br />
Loewen Rd<br />
Don’t miss...<br />
Tippling Club<br />
Rd<br />
Tippling Club 13 (8D Dempsey Rd,<br />
+65 6475 2217, www.tipplingclub.<br />
com), offering modern five-, ten-<br />
and 15-course dinner menus that<br />
match cocktails to dishes.<br />
5<br />
5<br />
8<br />
8<br />
4<br />
4<br />
12<br />
10 11<br />
Harding Rd<br />
Dempsey is filled with antique shops that offer furniture, masks and trinkets from<br />
around the region and throughout China. Woody Antique House 6 (Blk 13, #01-05<br />
Dempsey Rd, +65 6471 1770, www.woodyantique.com) has old Chinese chests, Indian<br />
doors and Burmese teakwood. Asiatique Collections 7 (Blk 14A, Dempsey Rd. +65<br />
6471 3146, www.asiatiquecollections.com) handpicks modern and vintage jewellery,<br />
homewares and art from around the world. Red Sea Gallery 8 (Block 9 Dempsey Rd,<br />
+65 6732 6711, www.redseagallery.com) showcases ceramics, sculptures, paintings<br />
and glass works from Vietnam, Indonesia, India and New Zealand.<br />
As the sun begins to set on the Hill, winers and diners pour into the<br />
neighbourhood. As well as the Tippling Club, stand-out restaurants include;<br />
Pamplemousse 9 (Blk 7, Dempsey Rd, #01-04, +65 6475 0080, www.<br />
pamplemousse.com.sg), with its experimental Asian twists on classic European<br />
dishes; and the Disgruntled Chef 10 (26B Dempsey Rd, +65 6476 5305, www.<br />
disgruntledchef.com), where creative cocktails can be paired with small dishes like<br />
the crispy lamb short-ribs.<br />
Stick around for live music at CM-PB 11 (Blk 7, Dempsey Rd, #01-05, +65 6475<br />
0105, www.cm-pb.net) – the acronym stands for Contemporary Melting-Pot & Bar; or<br />
share a tower of the Monster Green Lager at RedDot Brewhouse 12 (25A Dempsey<br />
Rd, #01-01, +65 6475 0500, www.reddotbrewhouse.com.sg), <strong>Singapore</strong>’s first local<br />
microbrewery, where acoustic acts perform regularly.<br />
15<br />
Holland Rd<br />
Ryan Clift,<br />
Tippling Club<br />
Asiatique Collections<br />
Tanglin Rd
dra Rd<br />
ast<br />
High<br />
Area guide<br />
Tiong Bahru<br />
Go here for... Art deco charm, specialty shops, café culture,<br />
hawker food and boutique hotels<br />
Just over the Central Expressway (CTE) from Chinatown is Tiong Bahru,<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong>’s first public housing estate. Begun in the 1930s, it’s an attractive<br />
array of low-rise flats painted orange and white. The architecture is a mix of art<br />
deco and Straits Settlement styles, with flat rooftops, rounded balconies and spiral<br />
staircases. An upper-class housing estate before World War II, it fell out of favour<br />
in the following decades, but the refurbished flats are now popular with hip, young<br />
homeowners.<br />
Tiong Bahru Market 1 (30 Seng Poh Rd) has a wet market and some of<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong>’s best hawkers under its roof; it’s a great place to try out local<br />
delicacies. Gentrification has seen the opening of places like 40 Hands 2 (#01-<br />
12, 78 Yong Siak St, +65 6225 8545, www.40handscoffee.com) – a graffiti-walled<br />
café producing speciality coffee. Alternatively, drop by Eng Hoon Mansions’ Caffe<br />
Pralet 3 (#01-03, 17 Eng Hoon St, +65 6223 5595) if you fancy quick meals and<br />
dainty desserts.<br />
Independent bookstore <strong>Book</strong>sActually 4 (9 Yong Siak St, +65 6222 9195.<br />
booksactually.com), has a wide spread of titles, whimsical stationery and tchotchkes.<br />
Nearby at Flea and Trees 5 (68 Seng Poh Ln, +65 8139 1133,<br />
Henderson Rd<br />
16<br />
Jin Bukit Merah<br />
Henderson Rd<br />
Tiong Bahru<br />
Alexandra Rd<br />
Delta Rd<br />
Lower<br />
Tiong Bahru<br />
Market<br />
40 Hands<br />
Lower Delta Rd Lower Delta Rd<br />
Jin Bukit Merah<br />
Ganges Ave<br />
Kim Tian Rd<br />
17<br />
Kim Pong Rd<br />
10<br />
2<br />
7<br />
9<br />
4<br />
6<br />
Chay Yan St<br />
Tiong Bahru St<br />
Lim Liak St<br />
Guan Chuan St<br />
11<br />
Eng Watt St<br />
Seng Poh Rd<br />
Seng Poh Ln<br />
Zion Rd<br />
Tiong Poh Rd<br />
Rd<br />
Eng Hoon St<br />
Tiong Bahru Rd<br />
11<br />
5<br />
3<br />
Chin Swee Rd<br />
Halo<br />
Outram Rd<br />
8<br />
Tiong Bahru<br />
www.facebook.com/fleatrees), vintage lovers can peruse pre-loved clothing from around<br />
the world, top-brand shoes and furniture. Additional old-school treasures can also be<br />
uncovered at nana & bird 6 (#01-02 Tiong Bahru Commons, 79 Chay Yan St, +65<br />
9117 0430, nanaandbird.com), a hole-in-the-wall offering totes, accessories and frocks.<br />
In Tiong Bahru’s art-deco styled district lies White Canvas Gallery 7 (#01-41, 78<br />
Guan Chuan St, +65 6220 8723, www.whitecanvas-gallery.com). Get comfy on the<br />
gallery’s couches and gaze at the South-East Asian artwork on its concrete walls.<br />
Wangz Hotel 8 (231 Outram Rd, +65 6595 1388, wangzhotel.com) outclasses<br />
the surrounding hawker stalls in both style and stature. Diners at its downstairs<br />
eatery Nectar can delight in the chic East-meets-West interior while enjoying an allday<br />
alfresco dining menu. Bring the party upstairs to Halo – a luxurious rooftop bar<br />
offering an exhaustive list of cocktails, including their signature drinks ($18) that<br />
are categorised by colour.<br />
Drinks can also be thrown back at SocialHaus 9 (11 Yong Siak St, +65 6557<br />
0286, www.facebook.com/socialhaus.sg), an elevated watering hole mixing up New<br />
American bites with happy-hour deals, or a few doors down at Open Door Policy 10<br />
(19 Yong Siak St, +65 6221 9307, odpsingapore.com) where they offer a Modern<br />
European menu along with an extended wine list. Prefer to stick with Eastern fare?<br />
Visit Por Kee Eating House 11 (#01-02, 69 Seng Poh Ln, +65 6221 0582) and try<br />
the home-made tofu with mushrooms and baby kailan with garlic.<br />
Kepp
Area guide<br />
Sentosa<br />
Go here for... Family fun, beach adventures and resorts<br />
Some of <strong>Singapore</strong>’s most popular attractions can be found at the island’s southern<br />
tip. The area comprises the district of Telok Blangah dominated by Mount Faber, Keppel<br />
Harbour and the island resort of Sentosa. There’s also the HarbourFront precinct, which<br />
houses the country’s largest mall (Vivocity), biggest nightspot complex (St James Power<br />
Station) and only cable car system, as well as the <strong>Singapore</strong> Cruise Centre. Just 15<br />
minutes from the city centre, it’s all easily accessible by bus and MRT. Once a fishing<br />
village, Sentosa served as a British military fortress from the 1800s to 1967 when it<br />
was known as Pulau Blakang Mati (‘Island of Death from Behind’). In 1968 it became a<br />
holiday resort, and now has pristine man-made beaches.<br />
The giant hotel-and-entertainment hub of Resorts World Sentosa 1<br />
(8 Sentosa Gateway.+65 6577 8888, www.rwsentosa.com) has an oceanarium,<br />
water park, Universal Studios’ rollercoasters, casino, swanky boutique shops,<br />
restaurants and six on-site hotels.<br />
Underwater World 2 (80 Siloso Rd. +65 6275 0030, www.underwaterworld.com.<br />
sg), is still a big draw after two decades in business. The highlight is the travelator ride,<br />
which leads you through an 83m tunnel while sharks, rays, eels and schools of fish<br />
swim above. Sentosa Luge 3 (Imbiah Lookout, +65 6274 0472, www.sentosa.com.sg)<br />
is also still worth a visit: a furious toboggan ride down a long, paved, curving track.<br />
Adventure-seekers can feel the rush of skydiving a few metres off the ground at<br />
18<br />
Resorts World<br />
Sentosa<br />
Sentosa Luge<br />
Underwater World<br />
Tanjong Beach Club<br />
iFly 4 (43 Siloso Beach Walk, +65 571 0000, www.iflysingapore.com), the world’s<br />
largest indoor skydiving wind tunnel. Nearby, Wave House 5 (36 Siloso Beach Walk,<br />
+65 6377 3113, www.wavehousesentosa.com) offers a hugely popular simulated<br />
surf experience that entices bikini-clad booty-shakings with its lively DJ bar action,<br />
lo-fi poolside revelry and the chance to shoot the curl <strong>Singapore</strong>-style.<br />
Tanjong Beach Club 6 (120 Tanjong Beach Walk, +65 6270 1355, www.<br />
tanjongbeachclub.com) is a hip hangout. Take a dip in the pool, sip the signature<br />
cocktails while grooving to the DJ on deck, or visit Dining Room for the all-day menu.<br />
At the other end of the beach, Mambo 7 (40 Siloso Beach Walk, +65 6276 6270,<br />
mambo.sg), is another beachfront bar, serving barbecue bites on the weekends and<br />
cocktails at the swim-up bar.<br />
The W Hotel 8 (21 Ocean Way, +65 6808 7288, www.wsingaporesentosacove.<br />
com) in Sentosa Cove was one of the most hotly anticipated openings of 2012, and<br />
is now luring people in to drink cocktails and enjoy local DJs at Woo Bar or sink their<br />
teeth into prime beef at chic steak grill Skirt.<br />
19<br />
2<br />
2<br />
Imbiah Rd<br />
Imbiah Walk<br />
5<br />
7<br />
5<br />
7<br />
Imbiah<br />
Rd<br />
3<br />
3<br />
Imbiah Rd<br />
Garden Ave<br />
4<br />
4<br />
Siloso Rd<br />
Beach<br />
view<br />
Sentosa<br />
1<br />
1<br />
Artillery Ave<br />
Siloso Beach View<br />
6<br />
8<br />
Wave House<br />
Sentosa<br />
Gateway<br />
Gatewa
ver Valley Rd<br />
Go here for... Chinese culture, antiques and food, stylish shopping<br />
and the city’s largest Hindu temple<br />
Chinatown<br />
Area guide<br />
Chinatown & Ann Siang Hill<br />
Ganges Ave<br />
Merah<br />
Kim Tian Rd<br />
Kim Pong Rd<br />
Kim Seng Rd<br />
Chinatowns traditionally spring up in cities where the Chinese are a minority. So<br />
it’s strange that <strong>Singapore</strong>, a country 1 where the Chinese outnumber all other races<br />
by far, should also have one. The reasons date back to colonial times, when Sir<br />
11<br />
8<br />
Stamford Raffles organised the influx of immigrants based on their cultural origins.<br />
5<br />
He gave the Chinese one of the largest portions 3 of land – just southwest of the<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong> River – realising that they comprised many dialect groups, each of whom<br />
7<br />
would need their own 2 separate enclave. After World War II, Chinatown became<br />
10<br />
a centre for political agitation and rioting. Gradually the area was redeveloped:<br />
families were moved 4 6<br />
9 out and into housing estates in other parts of the island, and<br />
the ‘big clean up’ of slums and crime improved conditions. Several old shophouses<br />
remain, although some have been gaudily restored.<br />
Chay Yan St<br />
Tiong Bahru St<br />
Lim Liak St<br />
Guan Chuan St<br />
Seng Poh Rd<br />
Seng Poh Ln<br />
Eng Watt St<br />
Around Chinatown’s most touristy central area – Pagoda Street, Temple Street and<br />
Smith Street – are shops filled with Chinese ‘antiques’ and all manner of Buddhashaped<br />
merchandise, from car ornaments to plastic radios. Another local curiosity are<br />
the stores that specialise in paper money, clothes and even paper cars, all burned as<br />
offerings on auspicious days for deceased ancestors. Housed within three restored<br />
shophouses, the 15 galleries at Chinatown Heritage Centre 1 (48 Pagoda St, +65<br />
Zion Rd<br />
Eng Hoon St<br />
Tiong Poh Rd<br />
20<br />
Tiong Bahru Rd<br />
Chin Swee Rd<br />
River Valley Rd<br />
Outram Rd<br />
Chin Swee Rd<br />
C<br />
6325 2878, chinatownheritagecentre.<br />
sg) showcase the rich history of the<br />
neighbourhood. Highlights include rooms<br />
replicating coolies’ living quarters and<br />
clan associations’ activity halls. Located<br />
at the end of the same street is the<br />
city’s largest and oldest Hindu temple,<br />
Sri Mariamman Temple 2 (244 South<br />
Bridge Rd, +65 6223 4064). Completed<br />
in 1863, it’s famous for its staggeringly<br />
detailed gopuram (tower gateway). It is<br />
also the site of Theemidhi, a remarkable<br />
fire-walking ceremony held a week before<br />
the Hindu festival Deepavali, usually in<br />
October.<br />
For stalls dishing out grub, wander<br />
down Chinatown Food Street 3 (also<br />
known as Smith Street), and dine alfresco<br />
on traditional dishes like fishball noodles<br />
and char kway teow (a noodle dish fried<br />
with fresh cockles). Not enough variety?<br />
Head down to Maxwell Food Centre 4<br />
(1 Kadayanallur St), which hosts over 100<br />
Havelock Rd<br />
stalls, including Tian Tian Chicken Rice<br />
(stall 10), considered by some to have the<br />
best chicken rice in <strong>Singapore</strong>.<br />
Chinatown’s Ann Siang Hill and<br />
Club Street 5 feature a mixture of<br />
old shophouses nestled among the<br />
skyscrapers of <strong>Singapore</strong>’s financial<br />
district. This is also where you will find<br />
many of the city’s quirky boutiques and<br />
trendy restaurants. Check out Woods<br />
in the <strong>Book</strong>s 6 (58 Club St, +65 6222<br />
Kampong Bahru Dr<br />
Spring St<br />
Kreta Ayer Rd<br />
3<br />
Neil Rd<br />
Sago Ln<br />
Spring St<br />
Keong Saik Rd Smith St Trengganu St<br />
1<br />
Pagoda St<br />
South Bridge Rd<br />
4<br />
Erskine Rd<br />
2<br />
Kadayanallur St<br />
Maxwell Rd<br />
Cross St<br />
Mohamed Ln<br />
6<br />
8<br />
10<br />
7<br />
9<br />
Ann Siang Rd<br />
Club St<br />
Club St<br />
Chinatown & Ann Siang Hill<br />
5<br />
Church St<br />
21<br />
Hill St<br />
Tian Tian<br />
Chicken Rice<br />
83 on Club<br />
Street<br />
9980, woodsinthebooks.sg) for a<br />
beautifully curated range of comic<br />
books, graphic novels and picture books<br />
for all ages. Front Row 7 (5 Ann Siang<br />
Rd, +65 6224 5501, frontrowsingapore.<br />
com) is a fashion-art concept store<br />
that often hosts exhibitions by young<br />
contemporary artists.<br />
Dining options on these streets<br />
cover top Italian picks, tapas, oyster<br />
bars and classic French fare. Visit<br />
quirky bar/art space 83 on Club Street<br />
8 (83 Club St, +65 6220 4083,<br />
83clubstreet.com) for great happyhour<br />
specials. B28 9 (28 Ann Siang<br />
Rd, +65 9026 3466, btwentyeight.<br />
com) is a whisky bar in the basement<br />
of the Club Hotel; or enjoy it all from<br />
above at La Terraza Rooftop Bar 10<br />
(12 Ann Siang Rd, +65 6221 1694,<br />
screeningroom.com.sg).<br />
inson Rd<br />
n Way<br />
h Rd<br />
5<br />
Es<br />
M
over Dunearn Rd<br />
Timah Rd<br />
Rd Stevens Rd<br />
aterson Rd<br />
Go here for... Indian food and culture, 24-hour shopping,<br />
backpacker nightlife and Hindu temples<br />
Balmoral Rd<br />
Scotts Rd<br />
Mustafa Centre<br />
Scotts Rd<br />
Dunearn Rd<br />
Under colonial rule, the area east of the <strong>Singapore</strong> River was designated a<br />
settlement for Indian immigrants and workers, a legacy that has been enshrined in<br />
the district’s more recent name, <strong>Little</strong> India. Today, it’s one of the most distinctive<br />
places in <strong>Singapore</strong>, a bustling, chaotic, sensory overload of people, shops, traffic,<br />
colours, smells and tastes, and largely unchanged for decades. To some extent it<br />
has retained its status as cultural centre for the Indian and Hindu community in<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong> – the majority are Tamils from South India – but there are other races and<br />
religions in <strong>Little</strong> India. A day spent wandering its streets will confirm how rich and<br />
fascinating this small area is.<br />
Stroll by the streets that surround Tekka Market 1 (664 Buffalo Rd), an<br />
unmissable landmark that has been a go-to community resource – wet market,<br />
hawker centre, custom tailor shops, Indian fashion boutiques – for over half a<br />
century. To pick up just about anything you could be looking for, Mustafa<br />
Centre 2 (145 Syed Alwi Rd, +65 6295 5855, www.mustafa.com.sg) is open<br />
24-hours, offering 14,000 sqm of bargains, not to mention a rooftop restaurant<br />
and supermarket. It’s a treasure trove of discount shopping, carrying everything<br />
from skincare and electronics to sari fabrics and luggage.<br />
Grange Rd<br />
Rd<br />
Bideford<br />
River Valley Rd<br />
Area guide<br />
<strong>Little</strong> India<br />
Orchard Rd<br />
Penang Rd<br />
22<br />
Newton Rd<br />
Rd<br />
Newton Flyover<br />
Thomson Rd<br />
Bukit Timah Rd<br />
Moulmein Rd<br />
<strong>Little</strong> India<br />
Hampshire Rd<br />
Northumberland Rd<br />
5<br />
Prinsep St<br />
Bras Basah Rd<br />
5<br />
Race Course Rd<br />
Buffalo Rd<br />
4<br />
1<br />
1<br />
5<br />
3<br />
3<br />
Chander Rd<br />
9<br />
Serangoon Rd<br />
Sungei Rd<br />
Race Course Ln<br />
4<br />
4<br />
Clive St<br />
Dunlop St<br />
Middle Rd<br />
Roberts Ln<br />
Kinte Rd<br />
Cuff Rd<br />
Dickson Rd<br />
7<br />
Perak Rd<br />
Baboo Ln<br />
Hindoo Rd<br />
Chitty Rd<br />
Jin Besar<br />
Lembu Rd<br />
Rowell Rd<br />
Upper Weld Rd<br />
Bencoolen Link<br />
Bencoolen St<br />
Waterloo St<br />
Queen St<br />
6<br />
Victoria St<br />
2<br />
Veerasamy Rd<br />
Kampong Kapor Rd<br />
8<br />
Rochor Rd<br />
North Bridge St<br />
Tessensohn Rd<br />
Sri Veeramakaliamman<br />
7 6<br />
2<br />
6<br />
1<br />
Jin Besar<br />
23<br />
Beach Rd<br />
Serangoon Rd<br />
Jin Pinang<br />
Haji Lane<br />
Bati Ln<br />
Ophir Rd<br />
l Highway<br />
Jin Besar<br />
While in this cultural enclave, don’t pass up the opportunity to dine. Race<br />
Course Road is filled with some of the neighbourhood’s best options, including<br />
the famous Banana Leaf Apolo 3 (54-58 Race Course Rd, +65 6293 8682,<br />
thebananaleafapolo.com), often tied with Muthu’s Curry 4 (138 Race Course Rd,<br />
+65 6392 1722, www.muthuscurry.com) down the block for the best fish-head<br />
curry. For something different, Mustard 5 (32 Race Course Rd, +65 6297 8422,<br />
www.mustardsingapore.com) serves Punjabi and Bengali fare; try the prawn creamy<br />
3<br />
7 curry served in a green coconut.<br />
8<br />
8<br />
2<br />
Don’t miss...<br />
Sri Veeramakaliamman<br />
Temple<br />
Dedicated to the goddess Kali,<br />
<strong>Little</strong> India’s most popular Hindu<br />
temple was constructed by Bengali<br />
immigrants and completed in 1881,<br />
but like all such monuments in<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong> has gone through many<br />
extensions and renovations over<br />
the years.<br />
141 Serangoon Rd. +65 6295 4538.<br />
www.sriveeramakaliamman.com. 9<br />
Prince of Wales<br />
Victoria St<br />
Arab St<br />
4<br />
6 7<br />
9<br />
North Bridge Rd<br />
Muscat St<br />
10<br />
Kandahar St<br />
1<br />
Sultan Gate<br />
2<br />
Beach Rd<br />
Aliwal St<br />
Jin Sultan<br />
Baghdad St Pahang St<br />
Dunlop Road is where you will find the backpacker crew, checking in at places<br />
like the InnCrowd 3 6 (73 Dunlop St, +65 6296 9169, www.the-inncrowd.com) and<br />
Prince of Wales 7 (101 Dunlop St, +65 6299 0130, www.pow.com.sg) – which<br />
doubles as a laidback watering hole and live music venue. In recent years, more<br />
upmarket accommodation has popped up in these parts, including Wanderlust 8<br />
(2 Dickson Rd, +65 6396 3322, wanderlusthotel.com), a trendy boutique hotel with<br />
themed rooms.<br />
8<br />
Ophir Rd<br />
Republic Blvd<br />
Boon Keng<br />
Nicoll Highway<br />
Craw<br />
5<br />
R
Holland Rd<br />
Go here for... Souvenirs and electronics, <strong>Singapore</strong> Art Museum<br />
and colourful temples<br />
Tanglin Rd<br />
Cluny<br />
Rd<br />
Napier Rd<br />
Tanglin Rd<br />
Souvenirs on Bugis Street<br />
The Bras Basah quarter is dominated by the raucous red-light memory of<br />
Bugis. Once <strong>Singapore</strong>’s most colourful and infamous neighbourhood, Bugis was<br />
rehabilitated in the ’80s into its modern version, with souvenir shops, well priced<br />
electronics and museums.<br />
Bugis Street 1 now houses close to 800 shops, making it the largest shopping<br />
street in <strong>Singapore</strong>. The shophouses adjacent to New Bugis Street have become<br />
Bugis Village, full of boutiques selling low-price clothes and accessories. Keep<br />
heading up pedestrianised Albert Street and you’ll hit Sim Lim Square 2 (1 Rochor<br />
Canal Rd, +65 6338 3859, simlimsquare.com.sg), a legendary treasure trove of<br />
cheap electronics and the latest gizmos from Japan and South Korea. But buyer<br />
beware, Sim Lim is a mixed bag of sellers, so keep an eye out for shop accreditation<br />
and always compare prices at multiple retailers before you buy.<br />
On the western end of Bugis is Sculpture Square 3 (155 Middle Rd, +65 6333<br />
1055, www.sculpturesq.com.sg), a former Methodist church converted into a gallery<br />
specialising in contemporary sculpture and installations. <strong>Singapore</strong> Art Museum<br />
4 (71 Bras Basah Rd, +65 6332 3222, singaporeartmuseum.sg) is the country’s 1<br />
largest visual arts gallery. It’s housed in a former Catholic boys’ school, a striking<br />
Jin Bukit Merah<br />
nderson Rd<br />
Area guide<br />
Bras Basah & Bugis<br />
Alexandra Rd<br />
24<br />
Jin<br />
ower Delta Rd Lower Delta Rd<br />
Grange Rd<br />
Stevens Rd Stevens Rd<br />
River Valley Rd<br />
Ganges Ave<br />
Kim Tian Rd<br />
Paterson Rd<br />
Kim Pong Rd<br />
7<br />
2<br />
10<br />
4 6<br />
9<br />
Chay Yan St<br />
Scotts Rd<br />
Grange Rd<br />
Tiong Bahru St<br />
Lim Liak St<br />
Guan Chuan St<br />
Seng Poh Rd<br />
Kim Seng Rd<br />
Seng Poh Ln<br />
Eng Watt St<br />
11<br />
Zion Rd<br />
Eng Hoon St<br />
5<br />
Tiong Poh Rd<br />
Tiong Bahru Rd<br />
3<br />
Chin Swee Rd<br />
Outram Rd<br />
Scotts Rd<br />
Rd<br />
Bideford<br />
River Valley Rd<br />
8<br />
Orchard Rd<br />
Penang Rd<br />
Chin Swee Rd<br />
Newton Flyover<br />
Street vendor on<br />
Waterloo St<br />
K<br />
Havelock Rd<br />
Kampong Bahru Dr<br />
Sp<br />
Cross St<br />
Bukit Timah Rd<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong> Art Museum<br />
3<br />
Sago Ln<br />
Spring<br />
Keong Saik Rd Smith St Trengganu St<br />
1<br />
Pagoda St<br />
South Bridge Rd<br />
Ersk<br />
2<br />
Mohamed Ln<br />
6<br />
8<br />
10<br />
7<br />
Ann Sia<br />
Club St<br />
Club St<br />
5<br />
Church St<br />
25<br />
Bras Basah Rd<br />
Hill St<br />
Hampshire Rd<br />
Northumberland Rd<br />
Race Course Rd<br />
Buffalo Rd<br />
Prinsep St<br />
Chander Rd<br />
Serangoon Rd<br />
Clive St<br />
Sungei Rd<br />
Race Course Ln<br />
Dunlop St<br />
Middle Rd<br />
Roberts Ln<br />
Kinte Rd<br />
Cuff Rd<br />
Dickson Rd<br />
Perak Rd<br />
Baboo Ln<br />
Hindoo Rd<br />
Chitty Rd<br />
Jin Besar<br />
Lembu Rd<br />
Rowell Rd<br />
Upper Weld Rd<br />
Bencoolen Link<br />
Bencoolen St<br />
Waterloo St<br />
Queen St<br />
Victoria St<br />
Esplanade Dr<br />
Veerasamy Rd<br />
Kampong Kapor Rd<br />
Rochor Rd<br />
North Bridge St<br />
Jin Besar<br />
Beach Rd<br />
Jin Pinang<br />
Haji Lane<br />
Bati Ln<br />
Ophir Rd<br />
Nicoll Highway<br />
Raffles Blvd<br />
Showered with architectural awards before it had even opened, the National<br />
Library 6 (100 Victoria St, +65 6332 3255, www.nlb.gov.sg) is designed as two<br />
1<br />
towers, linked by walkways and walled almost entirely with glass. The spacious<br />
reference section on the upper floors offers great views across the city. There are<br />
some small exhibition spaces, and it also houses the Drama Centre.<br />
5<br />
Kwan Im Thong<br />
Hood Cho Temple<br />
1<br />
4<br />
3<br />
5<br />
33<br />
Bras Basah<br />
4<br />
7<br />
6<br />
2<br />
77<br />
8<br />
white building with two wings and long verandahs that was revamped in the early<br />
1990s when there was a policy of converting old colonial buildings into public<br />
museums. SAM at 8Q 5 (8 Queen St, +65 6332 3222, singaporeartmuseum.sg)<br />
is the <strong>Singapore</strong> Art Museum’s newest contemporary art extension, showcasing<br />
modern installation works, video and photography, performance art and sound art.<br />
The neighbourhood is not all about what’s shiny and new however. Buddhist<br />
temple, Kwan Im Thong Hood Cho Temple 7 (178 Waterloo St, +65 6337 3965),<br />
built in 1884, was dedicated to the goddess of mercy and used as a refuge for the<br />
sick and destitute during the Japanese occupation. Today, hundreds of worshippers<br />
flood in every day. Further down the same street lies Sri Krishnan Temple 8 (152<br />
Waterloo St, +65 6337 7957). What began in 1870 as a banyan tree with a few<br />
deities placed next to it has evolved into a vivid, colourful temple dedicated to Lord<br />
Krishna, the supreme god in Hindu cosmology.<br />
8<br />
2<br />
6<br />
8<br />
2<br />
1<br />
1<br />
Jin Besar<br />
Victoria St<br />
Arab St<br />
4 6 7<br />
Raffles<br />
4<br />
9<br />
N<br />
1<br />
nt Ave
Bukit Timah Rd<br />
Area guide<br />
Kampong Glam<br />
Go here for... Malay/Arab culture and restaurants, carpet shops,<br />
hip clothing stores, and the Malay Heritage Centre<br />
Southeast of <strong>Little</strong> India is an enclave of streets and landmarks between Rochor<br />
Canal Road and Beach Road that is the Malay/Arab area of <strong>Singapore</strong>. It is still<br />
referred to by its original name, Kampong Glam (pronounced “Kampong Glum”), named<br />
after the gelam trees that grew in the area, or the Gelam tribe, or both. It was designated<br />
by Raffles as the site for Sultan Husain Shah’s palace after the Sultan had relinquished<br />
the island to the Brits, and soon became a gathering point for Malays, Indonesians<br />
from Java and merchants from the Middle East. The street names reflect this: you’ll find<br />
yourself wandering down Arab Street, Kandahar Street and Baghdad Street.<br />
Malay Heritage Centre 1 (85 Sultan Gate, +65 6391 0450, www.malayheritage.<br />
org.sg) tells the story of <strong>Singapore</strong>’s place in the Malay world. It has a fair number<br />
of historical objects and, a couple of dubious murals aside, the ground-floor<br />
displays successfully evoke the complex political, cultural and religious issues that<br />
shaped the Malay experience until the end of the 19th century. Upstairs is patchier,<br />
perhaps because the 20th-century story is more sanitised and politically selective.<br />
Nevertheless, there’s enough to give the visitor a valuable perspective on <strong>Singapore</strong>’s<br />
most significant ‘minority’ ethnic group. Ask about cultural performances on<br />
Wednesday and Sundays.<br />
26<br />
Hampshire Rd<br />
Northu<br />
5<br />
Race Course Rd<br />
Buffalo Rd<br />
Haji Lane<br />
Prinsep St<br />
Bras Basah R<br />
4<br />
1<br />
3<br />
Chander Rd<br />
Serangoon Rd<br />
Sungei Rd<br />
3<br />
Clive St<br />
Middle Rd<br />
Sultan Mosque<br />
Jin Besar<br />
Rochor Rd<br />
Piedra Negra<br />
Bencoolen Link<br />
Bencoolen St<br />
Waterloo St<br />
Queen St<br />
Ln<br />
Cuff Rd<br />
Dickson Rd<br />
Dunlop St<br />
7<br />
8<br />
2<br />
6<br />
7<br />
Perak Rd<br />
L<br />
Rowell Rd<br />
Baboo Ln<br />
Hindoo Rd<br />
Chitty Rd<br />
Upper Weld Rd<br />
Fitting well with the assortment of<br />
carpet sellers, Arab-influenced lounges<br />
also fill these streets. Stop by places<br />
like Alaturka 2 (16 Bussorah St, +65<br />
6294 0304, alaturka.com.sg) for kebabs<br />
and; Café Le Caire 3 (#01-01, 39 Arab<br />
St, +65 6292 0979, www.cafelecaire.<br />
com) an exotic tea-drinking hangout that<br />
serves a decent lamb shawarma roll;<br />
or Going Om 4 (63 Haji Ln, +65 6396<br />
3592, www.going-om.com), one of the<br />
few local establishments serving booze<br />
and something of a spiritual haven for the<br />
city’s minuscule hippy community set up<br />
along Haji Lane.<br />
6<br />
Victoria St<br />
Veerasamy Rd<br />
Kampong Kapor Rd<br />
8<br />
1<br />
North Bridge St<br />
Jin Besar<br />
ch Rd<br />
27<br />
Jin Pinang<br />
Haji Lane<br />
Bati Ln<br />
Ophir Rd<br />
Stop by BluJaz Cafe 9 (11 Bali Ln,<br />
+65 6292 3800, www.blujaz.net) for<br />
some live tunes: the three floors are full<br />
of the warm, rootsy, experimental flavour.<br />
Around the corner, the same owners have<br />
branched out into Mexican flavours with<br />
Piedra Negra 10 (241 Beach Rd, +65<br />
6291 1297), also attracting bustling<br />
crowds and often offering live Latin beats.<br />
y<br />
Victoria St<br />
Kampong Glam<br />
Arab St<br />
4 6 7<br />
4<br />
6<br />
Don’t miss...<br />
Haji Lane<br />
Haji Lane 5 is a rich<br />
hunting ground for offbeat<br />
designer labels, vintage<br />
clothing stores and a<br />
handful of vibrant bars<br />
and cafés. WanderWonder<br />
6 (65A Haji Ln, +65 6396<br />
8621, www.facebook.com/<br />
wanderwondersg) is a hip<br />
local menswear label aimed<br />
at the modern gentleman;<br />
Threadbare & Squirrel 7<br />
(43 Haji Ln, +65 6396 6738,<br />
www.threadbareandsquirrel.<br />
com) has a cleverly curated<br />
selection of clothing and<br />
accessories; and Pluck 8<br />
(31-33 Haji Ln, +65 6396<br />
4048, pluck.com.sg) has<br />
home accessories and unique<br />
jewellery.<br />
9<br />
9<br />
7<br />
North Bridge Rd<br />
Muscat St<br />
10<br />
Kandahar St<br />
3<br />
1<br />
Sultan Gate<br />
2<br />
Beach Rd<br />
Aliwal St<br />
Jin Sultan<br />
Baghdad St Pahang St<br />
48<br />
1<br />
2<br />
Ophir Rd<br />
5<br />
Blvd
Lor Mambong<br />
Lor Liput<br />
Commonwealth Ave<br />
Holland Ave<br />
Jin Merah Saga<br />
Go here for... Amazing architecture and mind-blowing tourist attactions,<br />
from a vertical garden to the world’s largest observation wheel<br />
ts<br />
Por do<br />
7<br />
5<br />
wn<br />
4<br />
9 6<br />
8<br />
3<br />
2<br />
Portsdown Ave<br />
West Coast Highway<br />
1<br />
Taman Warna<br />
Jin Rumia<br />
Jin Kelabu Asap<br />
Queensway<br />
Holland Flyover<br />
Queensway<br />
Area guide<br />
Commonwealth<br />
Alexandra Rd<br />
Alexandra Rd<br />
In the 1970s, land reclamation was carried out at Marina Bay, forming what has<br />
become today one of the most architecturally exciting parts of town, hosting new<br />
mega-developments including a hotel-and-entertainment hub, a futuristic garden<br />
and a state-of-the-art cruise centre.<br />
West Coast<br />
Down on the waterfront sit the dramatic, spiky durian domes of <strong>Singapore</strong>’s main<br />
performing arts centre, Esplanade – Theatres on the Bay 1 (1 Esplanade Dr, +65<br />
6828 8377, www.esplanade.com). It has its own mall, of course, and adjacent is the<br />
open-air hawker centre Makansutra Gluttons Bay – a collection of the best food stalls<br />
handpicked from around the city. Pedestrianised Marina Promenade, heading east of<br />
the bay behind the giant 165m observation wheel <strong>Singapore</strong> Flyer 2 (30 Raffles Ave,<br />
+65 6333 3311, www.singaporeflyer.com), is ideal for a stroll or a waterside picnic.<br />
Launched in 2010, the enormous Marina Bay Sands 3 (1 Bayfront Ave, +65<br />
6688 8868, www.marinabaysands.com) became an iconic part of the <strong>Singapore</strong><br />
skyline before construction was even complete. That’s largely due to the<br />
extraordinary SkyPark, which looks like a ship sitting atop three high-rise buildings –<br />
the view from its 200m-high observation deck is just as surreal. Signs point the way<br />
2<br />
to a glitzy mall and casino complete with a 7-tonne Swarovski chandelier.<br />
28<br />
Highway<br />
Holland Rd<br />
Henderson Rd<br />
Holland Rd<br />
Tanglin Rd<br />
Cluny<br />
Telok Blangah Rd/Keppel Viaduct<br />
Rd<br />
Napier Rd<br />
5<br />
11<br />
7<br />
6<br />
1<br />
10<br />
8 4<br />
Marina Bay & Marina 2 South<br />
9<br />
3<br />
Dempsey Rd<br />
Dempsey Rd<br />
Dempsey Rd<br />
Dempsey Rd<br />
Loewen Rd<br />
Harding Rd<br />
Imbiah Rd<br />
Imbiah Walk<br />
5<br />
7<br />
Imbiah<br />
Rd<br />
3<br />
Imbiah Rd<br />
Tanglin Rd<br />
Jin Bukit Merah<br />
Henderson Rd<br />
Alexandra Rd<br />
Delta Rd<br />
Marina Bay Sands<br />
Garden Ave<br />
4<br />
Siloso Rd<br />
Beach<br />
vie<br />
1<br />
Artillery Ave<br />
Lower<br />
Lower Delta Rd Lower Delta Rd<br />
Sentosa<br />
Gateway<br />
Gateway Ave<br />
Grange Rd<br />
River Valley Rd<br />
Jin Bukit Merah<br />
Ganges Ave<br />
West Coast Highway<br />
Kim Tian Rd<br />
Paterson Rd<br />
Kim Pong Rd<br />
7<br />
2<br />
10<br />
4 6<br />
9<br />
Chay Yan St<br />
Stevens Rd<br />
Scotts Rd<br />
Grange Rd<br />
Tiong Bahru St<br />
Lim Liak St<br />
Guan Chuan St<br />
1<br />
Seng Poh Rd<br />
Kim Seng Rd<br />
Seng Poh Ln<br />
Eng Watt St<br />
11<br />
Zion Rd<br />
Eng Hoon St<br />
Tiong Bahru Rd<br />
5 3<br />
Tiong Poh Rd<br />
Chin Swee Rd<br />
Outram Rd<br />
Scotts Rd<br />
Rd<br />
Bideford<br />
River Valley Rd<br />
8<br />
Keppel Rd<br />
Orchard Rd<br />
Penang Rd<br />
Chin Swee Rd<br />
Cantonment Rd<br />
ton Flyover<br />
Esplanade - Theatres<br />
on the Bay<br />
Havelock Rd<br />
Kampong Bahru Dr<br />
Spring St<br />
Kreta Ayer Rd<br />
3<br />
Neil Rd<br />
Sago Ln<br />
Spring St<br />
Keong Saik Rd Smith St Trengganu St<br />
1<br />
Pagoda St<br />
South Bridge Rd<br />
4<br />
Kadayanallur St<br />
Maxwell Rd<br />
Cross St<br />
2<br />
6<br />
8<br />
10<br />
7<br />
9<br />
Erskine Rd<br />
Mohamed Ln<br />
Ann Siang Rd<br />
Club St<br />
Club St<br />
Bukit Timah Rd<br />
5<br />
Church St<br />
Bras Basah Rd<br />
Hill St<br />
Robinson Rd<br />
Hampshire Rd<br />
Shenton Way<br />
Northumberland Rd<br />
Race Course Rd<br />
Buffalo Rd<br />
Prinsep St<br />
Chander Rd<br />
Serangoon Rd<br />
Clive St<br />
Sungei Rd<br />
Gardens by the Bay<br />
5<br />
4<br />
1<br />
5<br />
3<br />
3<br />
4<br />
Race Course Ln<br />
Dunlop St<br />
Middle Rd<br />
Roberts Ln<br />
Kinte Rd<br />
Cuff Rd<br />
Dickson Rd<br />
7<br />
6<br />
8<br />
2<br />
7<br />
Perak Rd<br />
29<br />
Baboo Ln<br />
Hindoo Rd<br />
Chitty Rd<br />
Jin Besar<br />
Lembu Rd<br />
Rowell Rd<br />
Upper Weld Rd<br />
Bencoolen Link<br />
Bencoolen St<br />
Waterloo St<br />
Queen St<br />
6<br />
Victoria St<br />
Esplanade Dr<br />
2<br />
Veerasamy Rd<br />
Kampong Kapor Rd<br />
8<br />
Rochor Rd<br />
1<br />
North Bridge St<br />
Marina Blvd<br />
Jin Besar<br />
Beach Rd<br />
Jin Pinang<br />
Haji Lane<br />
Bati Ln<br />
Ophir Rd<br />
Nicoll Highway<br />
Raffles Blvd<br />
Jin Besar<br />
Victoria St<br />
Arab St<br />
Bayfront Ave<br />
North Bridge Rd<br />
Muscat St<br />
Kandahar St<br />
Raffles Ave<br />
1<br />
Sultan Gate<br />
4<br />
2<br />
6 7<br />
3<br />
9<br />
8<br />
10<br />
Beach Rd<br />
Aliwal St<br />
Jin Sultan<br />
Baghdad St Pahang St<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong> Flyer<br />
Bayfront Ave<br />
Ophir Rd<br />
ECP<br />
Republic Blvd<br />
Nicoll Highway<br />
Crawford St<br />
Republic Ave<br />
Marina Bay<br />
Gardens<br />
by the Bay<br />
5<br />
Marina Bay<br />
Marina Mall<br />
5<br />
Marina Gardens<br />
Those not interested in cocktails or shopping can visit the ArtScience Museum<br />
4 (10 Bayfront Ave, +65 6688 8868). Some say it looks like a hand, others a lotus:<br />
everyone agrees that the Moshe Safdie-designed museum’s striking silhouette is<br />
instantly recognisable. The galleries set inside the protruding ‘petals’ host large-scale<br />
touring exhibitions that bridge art and science.<br />
The new large-scale modern garden next to Marina Bay Sands, Gardens by<br />
the Bay 5 (18 Marina Gardens Dr, +65 6420 6848, www.gardensbythebay.org.<br />
sg) opened mid-2012 and owes its futuristic look to a grove of ‘Supertrees’ – giant<br />
vertical gardens, planted in man-made palms up to 16 storeys in height. These mimic<br />
their organic cousins by harnessing solar energy and collecting rainwater for irrigation<br />
and fountain displays. Walkways lead to the largest Supertree, a 50m-high behemoth<br />
complete with a Swiss Family Robinson-style restaurant in its upper branches. There<br />
are also several themed gardens showcasing the best tropical horticulture and garden<br />
artistry, along with two armadillo-shaped conservatories – the Flower Dome and the<br />
Cloud Forest, veiled in mist and containing the world’s largest indoor waterfall.<br />
The Marina Barrage 6 (260 Marina Way, +65 6514 5959) was built across the<br />
mouth of the Marina Channel in 2008 to create <strong>Singapore</strong>’s 15th reservoir, the<br />
first in the heart of the city. On weekends, expect to see kayakers, windsurfers,<br />
dragonboaters, as well as picnickers on the grass.<br />
1<br />
4<br />
3<br />
2<br />
5<br />
66<br />
Dr<br />
Geylang
Sims Ave<br />
Sims Dr<br />
Go here for... Peranakan architecture and multicultural flavours from<br />
sweets and cakes to rich, fragrant laksa<br />
328 Katong Laksa<br />
Kallang Paya<br />
The Katong district is a microcosm of what <strong>Singapore</strong> is all about. A melting pot<br />
of cultures – from Malay and Indian to Chinese and Peranakan (descendants of<br />
17th-century Chinese immigrants who married local Malays) – this ’hood is heaping<br />
with heritage. It’s home to the island’s largest remaining assemblage of Baba<br />
architecture; you can wander down the streets for a look at traditional shophouses<br />
outfitted with pastel patterned tiles and engraved statues of dragons, flowers and<br />
crabs. Continue past sprawling bungalows put up by <strong>Singapore</strong>’s elite Peranakan and<br />
Eurasian communities who were looking for what was then a seaside view.<br />
As well as being a hostel and bistro, Betel Box 1 (200 Joo Chiat Rd, +65 6247 7340,<br />
betelbox.com) organises historical and food tours of the neighbourhood.<br />
Lebar Expy<br />
Al<br />
Area guide<br />
Katong & Joo Chiat<br />
Mountbatten Rd<br />
Local flavours can be sampled on your own as well. Early morning wanderers should<br />
stop by for a traditional kaya toast breakfast at Chin Mee Chin Confectionery 2<br />
(204 East Coast Rd, +65 6345 0419), which has been serving up sweets for over 80<br />
years. Tian Tian Chicken Rice 3 (443 Joo Chiat Rd, +65 6345 9443), the already<br />
famous Maxwell Food Court stall made even more famous by Anthony Bourdain, hosts<br />
a properly air-conditioned, sit-down outlet here.<br />
30<br />
Sims Ave<br />
Geylang Rd<br />
Guillemard Rd<br />
Mountbatten Rd<br />
Dunman Rd<br />
Geylang Rd<br />
Don’t miss...<br />
Katong Laksa<br />
Tanjong Katong Rd<br />
Sims Ave<br />
Changi Rd<br />
Dunman Rd<br />
Katong is famous for its laksa:<br />
a dish of rice vermicelli, cockles,<br />
shrimps, fish cake and chilli<br />
paste in thick, coconut-based<br />
broth. Four laksa stalls claim<br />
to be the original and/or the<br />
best. Pull up a plastic stool<br />
at corner favourite 328 Katong<br />
Laksa 4 (51 East Coast Rd, +65<br />
9732 8163) and slurp up a bowl<br />
of this fragrant noodle soup.<br />
Haig Rd<br />
Embrace the rich heritage of the Peranakans<br />
with a visit to the Intan 5 (69 Joo<br />
Chiat Tce, +65 9338 2234, the-intan.<br />
com), a private museum filled with<br />
everything from intricately embroidered<br />
wedding shoes to luxury furniture.<br />
Mountbatten Rd<br />
After relocating for the third time, always<br />
staying within Joo Chiat, the Cider Pit 6<br />
(328 Joo Chiat Rd, +65 6440 0504) is<br />
open for business, with over 40 beers to<br />
1<br />
31<br />
Amber Rd<br />
Marshall Rd<br />
Marshall Ln<br />
Ceylon Rd<br />
8<br />
8<br />
5<br />
Onan Rd<br />
Joo Chiat Rd<br />
4<br />
Katong & Joo Chiat<br />
4<br />
Tembeling Rd<br />
Still rd<br />
Teng Tong Rd<br />
3<br />
3<br />
6<br />
6<br />
Peranakan<br />
architecture<br />
Duku Rd<br />
7<br />
7<br />
East Coast Rd<br />
choose from and a wide selection of, you<br />
guessed it, cider. One of the more recent<br />
additions is Immigrants 7 (467 Joo Chiat<br />
Rd, +65 8511 7322, www.immigrants-gastrobar.com),<br />
a laid-back gastropub offering<br />
a long list of whiskies, along with a combo<br />
of Peranakan and Eurasian bites.<br />
For a sweet finish, stop by Awfully<br />
Chocolate 8 (131 East Coast Rd, +65<br />
6345 2190, www.awfullychocolate.<br />
com), a chic cake shop passionate about<br />
sinfully delicious truffles and cakes.<br />
1<br />
5<br />
2<br />
2
Shop<br />
From designer fashion to quirky crafts, from malls to markets,<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong>’s retail scene is the stuff of legend<br />
ION Orchard<br />
Shop: Orchard Road<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong>’s vibrant shopping drag is a wide one-way street flanked by tree-lined<br />
walkways. The road’s name was derived from the nutmeg, pepper and fruit<br />
plantations found here in the 19th century. The first malls appeared back in the<br />
1970s, and it’s been non-stop development ever since.<br />
Some of the newer additions to this strip include ION Orchard (2 Orchard Turn, +65<br />
6238 8228, www.ionorchard.com), which claims to be the ‘centre of gravity’ in the<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong> retail scene – and with jaw-dropping frontage, cutting-edge design, and<br />
more than 300 stores, it makes a good case. Apart from the obvious reason for<br />
coming here – shopping – be sure to check out the extra bells and whistles. The<br />
observation deck on the top two floors and the 493 sqm ION Art Level are both worth<br />
a visit. Holding the title of ‘tallest vertical mall’ in <strong>Singapore</strong>, Orchard Central (181<br />
Orchard Rd, +65 6238 1051, www.orchardcentral.com.sg) has a roof garden on levels<br />
11 and 12, complete with waterfalls, bamboo groves and alfresco cocktail lounges.<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong>’s first Dean & DeLuca outlet can also be found on the mall’s fourth floor.<br />
32<br />
H&M<br />
Dean & Deluca<br />
As its tony name suggests, Knightsbridge (270 Orchard Rd, +65 6603 8888, www.<br />
knightsbridge.com.sg) is a small, chic mall – part of the refurbished Grand Park<br />
Orchard hotel – which takes quality seriously. Shoppers will find trendy clothing from<br />
Topshop and Brooks Brothers, along with upscale watches and jewellery from the<br />
Hour Glass and Dickson. American apparel stores Tommy Hilfiger and a four-storey<br />
spread from Abercrombie & Fitch complete the fashion-forward line-up.<br />
Another store not to miss on the is the popular Swedish fashion house, H&M’s<br />
(1 Grange Road, +65 6235 1459, www.hm.com/sg) first Southeast Asian flagship<br />
store spanning 3 floors. Just down the road, 313@Somerset (313 Orchard Rd,<br />
+65 6496 9313, www.313somerset.com.sg) has one of the most eclectic fashion<br />
spreads of any mall on Orchard Road. As well as Zara and Forever 21, the eightstorey<br />
complex has a smattering of local fashion retailers selling cute dresses and<br />
more for a steal.<br />
Housed behind Mandarin Gallery’s (333A Orchard Rd, +65 6831 6363, www.<br />
mandaringallery.com.sg) sleek black façade are moe than 100 upmarket stores, all<br />
attracting cashed-up young people who like to look sharp. Hip tenants include top<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong>an designer Ashley Isham, new-to-market labels Bathing Ape and BenWu,<br />
flagship stores Marc by Marc Jacobs, Montblanc and French jeweller Mauboussin.<br />
33<br />
Orchard<br />
Central
Hansel<br />
Shop: For local design<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong>’s fashion scene may not be as big compared to the giants of Milan and<br />
Paris, but there’s a healthy number of world-class talents here. Admittedly, most have<br />
to go abroad to achieve success and recognition, but their creations are available at<br />
home, too. Here are a few names to look out for.<br />
Baylene’s (#01-04 Stamford House, 39 Stamford Rd, +65 6336 9619, www.baylene.<br />
com) eponymous label is a toddler in fashion terms at only a few years old, but her<br />
use of charcoal, jet-black and stark white, graphic shapes and fine pleats is very<br />
grown-up. She also has a hip menswear line, Baylene’s Boyfriend. Jo Soh is possibly<br />
the freshest, most fun and unpredictable designer in <strong>Singapore</strong>. Her label Hansel<br />
(www.ilovehansel.com) – named after her Jack Russell terrier – is a big hit in the<br />
Western world, especially Australia. Her designs are quirky, vibrant and varied, often<br />
inspired by trivial topics – candles, for instance, or pet camels.<br />
34<br />
Reckless<br />
Ericka<br />
Raoul<br />
Nic Wong’s Nicholas (#02-323 Marina<br />
Square, 6 Raffles Blvd, +65 6337<br />
3726, www.nicholasnic.com) regularly<br />
has fashion critics sitting up and<br />
taking notice. A previous winner of the<br />
Mercedes Benz Asia Fashion Award,<br />
his trademark asymmetrical creations<br />
for men and women combine clean-cut<br />
silhouettes with quirky, clever tailoring.<br />
Local designers Afton Chen, Diorelle<br />
Sy, Ruth Marbun and Louis Koh are<br />
the quartet behind cult label Reckless<br />
Ericka (The Reckless Shop, #02-08/09<br />
Orchard Central, 181 Orchard Rd, +65<br />
6338 8246, www.recklessericka.com),<br />
known for its edgy take on classic<br />
silhouettes. FJ Benjamin launched Raoul<br />
(www.raoul.com) in <strong>Singapore</strong> in 2002<br />
as a men’s shirt label, branching out to<br />
womenswear in response to the demand.<br />
The homegrown brand has since added<br />
accessories to its stable, including<br />
bespoke bags and belts, with outlets in<br />
Paragon, Raffles City and the Shoppes at<br />
Marina Bay Sands.<br />
35<br />
Tax refunds<br />
As a tourist in <strong>Singapore</strong>, you<br />
can claim a refund on the 7 per<br />
cent GST paid on purchases made<br />
when you leave <strong>Singapore</strong> and<br />
take your purchases home. Simply<br />
spend SG$100 or more to qualify.<br />
Refunds are deposited via the<br />
Electronic Tourist Refund Scheme<br />
(eTRS). Choose one credit/debit<br />
card for all purchases; this<br />
card will allow eTRS to retrieve<br />
all of your purchase details at<br />
the airport.<br />
1 At the shops<br />
When shopping, use one credit/<br />
debit card as your ‘token’ to<br />
link up all your purchases.<br />
Ask for your eTRS ticket and<br />
original invoice/receipt before<br />
leaving the shop.<br />
2 Before departure<br />
If you plan to check-in your<br />
purchases, first apply for your<br />
GST refund at the eTRS self-help<br />
kiosk located at the departure<br />
check-in hall (before departure<br />
immigration) using your token or<br />
eTRS Tickets. You will not be<br />
entitled to a refund if you have<br />
checked in your purchases prior<br />
to the application.<br />
3 At the eTRS self-help kiosk<br />
Use your chosen credit/debit<br />
card to retrieve all your<br />
purchase details. Follow the<br />
instructions on the eTRS selfhelp<br />
kiosk to apply for your GST<br />
refund claims.<br />
4 Collect your refund<br />
Choose to have the refund<br />
credited directly into your<br />
credit card at the eTRS self-help<br />
kiosk. You may board your plane<br />
after completing your claims.
Mustafa Centre<br />
Shop: Off the beaten track<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong>’s malls are not all clumped up on Orchard Road and they also do not all<br />
focus on fashion. Velocity at Novena (238 Thomson Rd, +65 6358 0700, www.<br />
novenasquare.com) is a retail playground for sports fans. The bulk of this mall’s<br />
tenants tend to athletes’ needs. There’s even an outdoor basketball court, with free<br />
ball rental from the customer service counter. More of a gadget geek than a sporty<br />
jock? Head to Funan DigitaLife Mall (109 North Bridge Rd, +65 6336 8327, www.<br />
funan.com.sg), with two specialist Apple outlets and plenty of shops selling digital<br />
cameras, MP3 players and games. For just about anything else, stop by Mustafa<br />
Centre (145 Syed Alwi Rd, +65 6295 5855, www.mustafa.com.sg) in <strong>Little</strong> India. A<br />
local institution, Mustafa remains open around the clock, and offers 7,000 sqm of<br />
bargains – not to mention a rooftop curry restaurant and supermarket. It’s a treasure<br />
trove of discount shopping, with everything from skincare and electronics to luggage<br />
and souvenirs. Another after-dark option is Bugis Street (p24), the largest street<br />
shopping location in <strong>Singapore</strong>. With a unique blend of retail concepts ranging from<br />
chic and fashionable clothing and accessories to beauty services like manicure<br />
parlours and hair salons, this cobblestoned avenue is always buzzing.<br />
Several special shopping events take place throughout the year as well. Get your fill of<br />
local and original arts, crafts and live music at MAAD Pyjamas (www.facebook.com/<br />
goMAAD), a market held one Friday every month at red dot design museum<br />
(28 Maxwell Rd, +65 6327 8027, www.red-dot.sg/museum).<br />
Don’t miss... Flea & Easy<br />
In addition to reeling in big-name DJs, superclub Zouk (17 Jiak Kim St, www.<br />
zoukclub.com) contributes to the fashion scene as well with the quarterly Flea<br />
& Easy market, filled with pre-loved threads and knick-knacks every Sunday afternoon.<br />
36<br />
Pulau Ubin<br />
Green <strong>Singapore</strong><br />
Find some time to get lost in the great <strong>Singapore</strong>an outdoors<br />
1 Pulau Ubin<br />
A reminder of old <strong>Singapore</strong>, this<br />
boomerang-shaped island is covered<br />
in trees and dotted with beaches and<br />
characterful old Malay houses. The<br />
best way to explore is by bike; bikes are<br />
available 8am–6pm, and cost $3–$8<br />
to rent. There are three cycling trails<br />
(on paved and dirt roads), which lead<br />
past old fruit and rubber plantations,<br />
mangrove swamps, water-filled quarry<br />
pits and old wooden houses.<br />
2 Labrador Park & Henderson Waves<br />
Labrador Park provides the perfect<br />
seaside setting for a scenic skirmish with<br />
wartime history. While Henderson Waves,<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong>’s highest pedestrian bridge<br />
spans Mount Faber Park, Telok Blangah<br />
Hill, Hort Park and Kent Ridge Park.<br />
3 Bukit Timah Reserve<br />
There are four walking trails to enjoy but<br />
more interesting are the unpaved trails;<br />
Route 3 (green) follows a winding forest<br />
path, past caves used by Japanese<br />
soldiers in World War II.<br />
37<br />
Henderson Waves<br />
4 Sungei Buloh Wetlands<br />
This wetland reserve of mangrove<br />
swamps, ponds and secondary forest<br />
is home to 140 species of birds; early<br />
morning is the best time for birdwatching.<br />
5 MacRitchie Reservoir<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong>’s oldest and most popular nature<br />
park is a haven for joggers, families<br />
and weekend strollers; occasional free<br />
concerts are held on Sundays. In addition<br />
to the reservoir, a popular attraction is<br />
the TreeTop Walk, a 250-metre aerial freestanding<br />
suspension bridge spanning the<br />
two highest points in MacRitchie.<br />
6 The Botanic Gardens<br />
During weekends, tours to its rainforest<br />
patch are available, while concerts are<br />
often held at Symphony Lake.<br />
7 Gardens by the Bay<br />
An oversized grove of man-made,<br />
eco-friendly ‘Supertrees’ (huge vertical<br />
gardens up to 16 storeys high) grow from<br />
the Gardens adjacent to Marina Bay. For<br />
more on Gardens by the Bay, see p29.
Eat<br />
Discover why <strong>Singapore</strong> is one of the most exciting culinary<br />
destinations on the planet<br />
Eat: Hawker food<br />
The food is fantastic and made to order; prices are rock-bottom (a dish plus drink<br />
costs about $5); and they’re noisy, vibrant and bustling warrens of local life – an<br />
antidote to the sanitised, manicured side of <strong>Singapore</strong>. Hawker centres are a treasure<br />
trove of taste sensations, gathering under one roof a world of cuisines – Chinese,<br />
Malay, Peranakan, Indian, Eurasian.<br />
Hawker centres have been around since the late 1950s, often attached to wet<br />
markets selling fresh produce. But it wasn’t until the government clamped down<br />
on street food (mainly for hygiene reasons) in the early 1980s that they became<br />
ubiquitous, each neighbourhood having its own designated centre. There are around<br />
120 hawker centres in <strong>Singapore</strong>, each sheltering anywhere from 50 to 100 or more<br />
food stalls, often family-run and each specialising in a few dishes, drinks or desserts.<br />
All stalls get a cleanliness rating (A to D) posted on the front of their stall.<br />
Table sharing is the norm at a hawker centre. To reserve (or ‘chope’) a space, locals<br />
sometimes place a packet of tissues on a seat while they’re ordering their food, but see<br />
right for a detailed guide to hawker ettiquette.<br />
38<br />
The fine art<br />
of ordering at a<br />
hawker centre<br />
No reservations<br />
Find your table before you<br />
order. Communal sharing of<br />
the tables is usual here so<br />
there’ll be no ‘table for<br />
two’. You could have someone<br />
from the group sit at the<br />
table while others go to<br />
order. Take note of your<br />
table number before you head<br />
to a food stall to order.<br />
Decisions, decisions<br />
Do a scout of the stalls to<br />
see what takes your fancy<br />
according to menu and price.<br />
By all means order from more<br />
than one stall. It’s not a<br />
bad idea to check out the<br />
cleanliness rating on the<br />
front of each stall when<br />
making your final selection.<br />
The waiting game<br />
To place your order, join<br />
a queue and wait for the<br />
cook’s assistant to call<br />
you.<br />
Help yourself<br />
If the stall bears the sign<br />
‘self-service’ it means you<br />
need to take your plate to<br />
your table yourself. Other<br />
stalls will ask for the<br />
number of your table and<br />
deliver the food to you.<br />
Cash on delivery<br />
If it is being delivered,<br />
you pay when your food<br />
arrives.<br />
39<br />
Top 5<br />
Hawker centres<br />
Makan Sutra<br />
Gluttons Bay<br />
1 Makan Sutra Gluttons Bay<br />
Offering a spectacular view of the Marina Bay<br />
skyline, this open-air, moon-lit hawker centre<br />
stocks a wide range of famous local treats<br />
such as fried carrot cake, oyster omelette,<br />
chilli crab and roti jala (lacy pancakes<br />
served with curry). 8 Raffles Avenue.<br />
2 Zion Riverside Food Centre<br />
Slurp sweet Asian desserts at<br />
Mohammed Sultan Rd Cheng Tng (stall<br />
32) or rojak (spicy mixed vegetable and<br />
fruit salad) at Clementi Brothers Rojak<br />
(stall 21). Cnr Zion Rd & Ganges Ave.<br />
3 Tiong Bahru<br />
After you spend time sniffing around the<br />
fresh produce section, eat roast pork<br />
from Tiong Bahru Roasted Pig Specialist<br />
(stall 02-38) and fluffy pancakes from<br />
Mian Jian Kueh, a few stalls down at No.<br />
34. Cnr Lim Liak St & Seng Poh Rd.<br />
4 Chomp Chomp<br />
Arguably one of <strong>Singapore</strong>’s finest is,<br />
sadly, only accessible by car, but jump<br />
in a cab and the tastiest grilled stingray<br />
awaits (stall 1). In the evening, bag a<br />
seat on the timber deck facing the road;<br />
it’s cooler there. 20 Kensington Park Rd.<br />
5 Maxwell Road<br />
Recently renovated, the frantic hawker<br />
centre in the heart of Chinatown threatens<br />
sensory overload – the congee at Zhen<br />
Zhen is superb. 11 South Bridge Rd.
Sky on 57<br />
L’Atelier<br />
Eat: At the top end of town<br />
Along with two casinos, a theme park and countless designer labels, <strong>Singapore</strong>’s<br />
two integrated resorts introduced the city to a group of celebrity chefs – all keen to<br />
get in on the action. Big-name restaurants at Marina Bay Sands (10 Bayfront Ave,<br />
www.marinabaysands.com) include orange clog-sporting American red-head Mario<br />
Batali’s Osteria Mozza (#B1-42/46, +65 6688 8522, www.osteriamozza.com), with a<br />
mozzarella bar and drool-worthy Italian classics. Splurge on a lavish and memorable<br />
modern Japanese dinner courtesy of Tetsuya Wakuda at Waku Ghin (Casino Lvl 2,<br />
+65 6688 8507, www.marinabaysands.com), the acclaimed Australian chef’s only<br />
outpost beyond his much-garlanded Sydney mothership; or try the <strong>Singapore</strong>-inspired<br />
menu from the only local celeb, Justin Quek, at Sky on 57 (Sands Skypark, Tower 1,<br />
Lvl 57, +65 6688 8857) with panoramic views. Resorts World Sentosa (8 Sentosa<br />
Gateway, www.rwsentosa.com) has brought in Joël Robuchon – the world’s most<br />
Michelin-star-studded chef – for not one but two outposts. Try the Discovery Menu at<br />
L’Atelier (Lvl 1, Hotel Michael, Resorts World Sentosa, +65 6577 7888. www.joelrobuchon.net)<br />
for mouth-watering modern French creations.<br />
40<br />
Waku Ghin<br />
Pollen<br />
Restaurant André<br />
A more recent addition to the skyline, Gardens by the Bay has also introduced a<br />
noteworthy dining establishment. British chef Jason Atherton’s Pollen (#01-09<br />
Flower Dome, 18 Marina Gardens Dr, +65 6604 9988, www.pollen.com.sg) is set<br />
up on two floors of the climate-controlled Flower Dome conservatory and is serving<br />
a Mediterranean menu. To take in fresh views of the city, book a table at Catalunya<br />
(The Fullerton Pavilion, 82 Collyer Quay, +65 6534 0188, www.catalunya.sg), where<br />
ceiling-high glass windows show off Marina Bay Sands and its neighbours, and<br />
Spanish chef Alain Devahive Tolsa – who spent a decade at elBulli – introduces diners<br />
to tapas-focused Catalan cuisine.<br />
Free-standing, fine-dining establishments have popped up on the streets as well.<br />
Perhaps the most buzzed about is the three-storey Chinatown shophouse where<br />
chef André Chiang mixes food and art at Restaurant André (41 Bukit Pasoh Rd, +65<br />
6534 8880, www.restaurantandre.com). His MO: Mediterranean accents and cooking<br />
techniques picked up during his 14-year stint in France. Each dish in his set menu<br />
resembles an artist’s palette, whether in the colours or shapes of perfectly partnered<br />
ingredients, or the dishes on which each course is served.<br />
41
Eat: Like a local<br />
42<br />
Gayatri<br />
Restaurant<br />
The staggering range of cuisines in <strong>Singapore</strong> is a result of its history as a magnet for<br />
immigrants from all over Asia – the earliest form of fusion. The Indians, for instance,<br />
thriftily plonked fish heads into saffron-tinged sauces and created the now iconic<br />
fish-head curry, a dish not found in Mother India, but available in <strong>Little</strong> India favourite<br />
Gayatri Restaurant (122 Race Course Road, +65 6291 1011, www.gayatrirestaurant.<br />
com), where you should learn from a local to eat using your hands.<br />
Long Beach (www.longbeachseafood.com.sg) has been around for as long as anyone<br />
can remember, and judging from the weekend crowds of multi-generational families at<br />
their outlets around the city, it will remain for a long time to come. Concentrate on the<br />
huge Sri Lankan chilli crabs or the famous black-pepper crab. Another favourite crab<br />
shack, serving a similar menu, is No Signboard Seafood (www.nosignboardseafood.<br />
com) – of the four locations in <strong>Singapore</strong>, the Geylang outlet has the most personality.<br />
Combining the flavours of their Chinese and Malay heritage – and plundering from<br />
Indian, Indonesian and Thai kitchens – the Peranakans blend fresh lemongrass, pandan<br />
leaves, shrimp paste, coconut, tropical fruits and vegetables to create a richly layered<br />
cuisine of stews, curries and elaborate desserts. The Blue Ginger Restaurant (97<br />
Tanjong Pagar Rd, +65 6222 3928, www.theblueginger.com), a two-storey shophouse,<br />
offers a menu filled with all of the classics. Chef Willin Low’s chic Wild Rocket (10a<br />
Upper Wilkie Rd, +65 6339 9448, www.wildrocket.com.sg) restaurant gives classic<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong>an dishes a modern, multi-textured twist. His laksa pesto linguine with tiger<br />
prawns and quail eggs is a show-stealer. In recent years Duxton Hill, near Chinatown,<br />
has been flooded with a wave of chic European-style bistros, but Wok & Barrel (13<br />
Duxton Hill, +65 6220 0595) brings in local flavour. Reimagined stall classics (‘Wok’)<br />
are paired with ciders, lagers and ales (‘Barrel’).<br />
Kopi, kaya<br />
toast & eggs<br />
Don’t leave <strong>Singapore</strong> without trying...<br />
1 <strong>Singapore</strong> chicken rice<br />
A simple yet beloved dish of succulent poached chicken<br />
paired with red chilli sauce and rice steamed with ginger,<br />
garlic and chicken stock.<br />
2 Coffee and tea, <strong>Singapore</strong> style<br />
Straight ‘kopi’ or ‘teh’ contains both sugar and condensed<br />
milk. If this is too sweet for you, order it kosong<br />
(without sugar) or o kosong (straight and bitter).<br />
3 Kaya toast and eggs<br />
This local breakfast favourite is a little like <strong>Singapore</strong>an<br />
soldiers: delicious coconut egg jam that is spread on toast,<br />
with accompanying soft-boiled eggs.<br />
4 <strong>Black</strong> pepper crab<br />
It’s difficult to go past the world-famous chilli crab, but<br />
you’d be missing out if you didn’t also sample the black<br />
pepper crab, butter crab or crab bee hoon.<br />
5 Bak Kut Teh<br />
While the direct translation of bak kut teh (meat bone<br />
tea!) leaves a bit to be desired, this Chinese soup is<br />
far more delicious than it sounds, consisting of meaty<br />
pork ribs simmered in a delicious broth infused with star<br />
anise, cinnamon, cloves, fennel and garlic.<br />
43<br />
Bak Kut Teh<br />
<strong>Black</strong> Pepper<br />
Crab
Play<br />
There’s more to the bar and nighclub scene than just <strong>Singapore</strong> Slings<br />
The Cufflink Club<br />
Bars<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong>’s watering holes are a mixed bag. Molly Malone’s (56 Circular Rd, +65<br />
6536 2029, www.molly-malone.com), the city’s oldest Irish pub, is an after-work expat<br />
institution in Boat Quay.<br />
While live music venues are still lacking, stop by Crazy Elephant (#01-03 Clarke Quay,<br />
3E River Valley Rd, +65 6337 7859, www.crazyelephant.com) for decent live rock and<br />
blues; try Timbre @ The Substation (45 Armenian St, +65 6338 8030, www.timbre.<br />
com.sg/), which features a different local act every night; or wander into BluJaz Cafe<br />
(11 Bali Ln, +65 6292 3800, www.blujaz.net) for live jazz in the Arab Quarter.<br />
At 282m, triangular-shaped outdoor 1-Altitude Gallery & Bar (Lvl 63, One Raffles<br />
Place, 1 Raffles Pl, +65 6438 0410, www.1-altitude.com) is the self-proclaimed<br />
‘highest alfresco bar in the world’. Recently renovated Loof (#03-07 Odeon Towers,<br />
331 North Bridge Rd, +65 6338 8035, www.loof.com.sg) – <strong>Singapore</strong>’s first<br />
standalone rooftop bar – is now serving South-East Asian-driven food and cocktails.<br />
Tucked away cocktail bars have also been springing up. Alluringly semi-lit, 28<br />
HongKong Street (28 Hongkong St, +65 6533 2001, www.28hks.com) gives off a<br />
speakeasy vibe; while the sophisticated bar at the Cufflink Club (6 Jiak Chuan Rd,<br />
www.thecufflinkclub.com) concentrates on shaking up the perfect tipple.<br />
44<br />
Clubs<br />
Zouk<br />
Stretching along the riverfront, Clarke<br />
Quay is canopied by space-age<br />
umbrellas. If you like to bar hop furiously<br />
with everything under one roof, then<br />
this part of town is for you. Zirca (Blk C<br />
Clarke Quay, 3 River Valley Rd, +65 6305<br />
6768, www.zirca.sg) hosts rambunctious<br />
and riotous parties complete with<br />
aerialists and fire-twirlers. Local and<br />
guest DJs appeal to a younger set of<br />
partiers. Wander nearby to Home Club<br />
(#B1-01/06 The Riverwalk, 20 Upper<br />
Circular Rd, +65 6538 2928, www.<br />
homeclub.com.sg) for the sounds of<br />
indie-dance, left-field and dubstep.<br />
At Marina Bay Sands (10 Bayfront Ave)<br />
you’ll find Avalon (+65 6688 7448,<br />
www.avalon.sg) with an ambitious,<br />
state-of-the-art visual, sound and light<br />
system; Pangaea (+65 6597 8325, www.<br />
pangaea.sg), the ultra-lounge bottle-club<br />
opened in 2011 with sleek, safari-themed<br />
confines; and rooftop Ku De Ta (+65<br />
6688 7688, www.kudeta.com.sg), a<br />
classy club, bar and restaurant with its<br />
roots in Seminyak, Bali.<br />
Despite many nightclub openings (and<br />
closings), Zouk (17 Jiak Kim St, +65<br />
6738 2988, www.zoukclub.com) holds its<br />
own. This 20+-years-young grande dame<br />
continues to push the boundaries of<br />
electronic dance music in <strong>Singapore</strong>.<br />
45<br />
Key nightlife<br />
Conceived in 2000, ZoukOut<br />
(www.zoukout.com) is the<br />
largest and one of the most<br />
talked about outdoor dance<br />
music festivals in Asia.<br />
Every year in December,<br />
people travel from around<br />
the region to catch top DJs<br />
playing live on Sentosa’s<br />
beaches all night long.<br />
International and regional<br />
musicians representing a<br />
wide range of genres gather<br />
to perform at the Mosaic<br />
Music Festival, held at<br />
the Esplanade in March.<br />
Later that same month,<br />
the alfresco Timbre Rock &<br />
Roots (www.rockandroots.<br />
com.sg) takes place at the<br />
Marina Promenade. At the<br />
same location Beerfest Asia<br />
(www.beerfestasia.com) in<br />
June offers beer lovers<br />
the chance to sample suds<br />
from around the world with<br />
live cover bands performing<br />
on stage. A platform for<br />
South-East Asian musicians,<br />
Esplanade also sponsors<br />
alternative music festival<br />
Baybeats (www.baybeats.com)<br />
mid year.<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong>’s Formula 1 Night<br />
Race (www.singaporegp.<br />
sg) in September brings<br />
diverse acts – usually a<br />
mix of big-name superstars,<br />
K-pop heartthrobs and a few<br />
golden oldies. The city’s<br />
streets are converted into<br />
a racetrack where you can<br />
catch hours of jam-packed<br />
action from the race to the<br />
concerts with one ticket.
Matchbox<br />
Stay<br />
Find stylish accommodation to suit your circumstances<br />
Family friendly<br />
The Orchard Hotel (442 Orchard Rd, +65 6734 7766, www.orchardhotel.com.<br />
sg) has a special children’s concierge service, ‘Ask Alfred’ (S$22++ per child).<br />
Four Seasons <strong>Singapore</strong> (190 Orchard Blvd, +65 6734 1110, www.fourseasons.<br />
com), has a kids’ buffet at Sunday brunch and babysitting services. On Sentosa,<br />
the Festive Hotel (39 Artillery Ave, +65 6577 8899, www.rwsentosa.com) is filled<br />
with child-friendly amenities; entertainment options (such as Universal Studios) are<br />
on tap. All 313 studios at Capri by Fraser (3 Changi Business Park Central 1, +65<br />
6933 9833, singapore.capribyfraser.com) have kitchenettes.<br />
Budget<br />
The nine themed rooms in Clarke Quay’s Five Stones Hostel (61 South Bridge Rd,<br />
+65 6535 5607, www.fivestoneshostel.com) are designed by local artists. Creature<br />
comforts abound with firm, custom-made pillows and individual reading lights.<br />
Matchbox the Concept Hostel (39 Ann Siang Rd, +65 6423 0237, www.matchbox.<br />
sg), in a three-storey conservation shophouse, has a ladies-only 12-bed dorm, a twobed<br />
private room and an 18-bed mixed dorm. The sleeping pods are designed to be<br />
like matchboxes. The Perak Hotel (12 Perak Rd, +65 6299 7733, www.peraklodge.<br />
com) is ideal for soaking up local colour while offering a respite from the area’s hectic<br />
vibe. Housed in a restored, Peranakan-style building, it’s small but full of character.<br />
46<br />
Orchard Hotel<br />
Fullerton Bay<br />
Hotel<br />
Boutique<br />
At New Majestic Hotel (31–37 Bukit Pasoh Rd, +65 6511 4700, www.<br />
newmajestichotel.com) you’ll feel like a rock star, thanks to the big white lobby,<br />
vintage fans, designer chairs and themed guest rooms. Hotel 1929 (50 Keong Saik<br />
Rd, +65 6347 1929, www.hotel1929.com) turned five colonial shophouses into a 32room<br />
boutique property. At Klapsons (15 Hoe Chiang Rd, +65 6521 9000, klapsons.<br />
com) no two rooms are alike but each has a Jacuzzi. Other options include Naumi<br />
Liora (55 Keong Saik Rd, +65 6922 9000, www.naumiliora.com), a chic contemporary<br />
hotel in a heritage building in Chinatown.<br />
Old-school charm<br />
Movenpick Heritage Hotel Sentosa (23 Beach View, Sentosa, +65 6818 3388,<br />
moevenpick-hotels.com) is close to all the island’s attractions and has a Heritage wing<br />
dating back to the 1940s. Colonial-era architecture and a rich history set Hotel Fort<br />
Canning (11 Canning Walk. +65 6559 6770. www.hfcsingapore.com) apart. This stately<br />
86-room hotel was originally the British Army’s headquarters.<br />
Luxury<br />
The centrally located Fullerton Bay Hotel (80 Collyer Quay, +65 6333 8388, www.<br />
fullertonbayhotel.com) is one of the newer additions to the luxe Marina Bay waterfront<br />
precinct. The hotel’s public spaces were designed by HK-based interiors wunderkind<br />
Andre Fu – huge spaces, huge cylindrical chandeliers – and rooftop bar Lantern is one<br />
of <strong>Singapore</strong>’s hottest bars. Boasting the most spacious accommodation in <strong>Singapore</strong>,<br />
Capella (1 The Knolls, Sentosa, +65 6377 8888, capellahotels.com/singapore) offers<br />
seascape visitas, beach access, spa and world-class luxury service.<br />
47
Essential info<br />
Attitude & etiquette<br />
In general, <strong>Singapore</strong>ans are friendly and<br />
helpful. However, race and religion are<br />
usually not topics of debate.<br />
Currency<br />
The currency used in <strong>Singapore</strong> is the<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong> dollar (S$). SGD$1 is roughly<br />
equivalent to AU$0.80.<br />
Tipping<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong>ans don’t generally tip, as<br />
hotels and restaurants levy a 10 per<br />
cent service charge on bills plus 7 per<br />
cent Goods & Services Tax, denoted by<br />
++ on menus and bills.<br />
Singlish<br />
Don’t forget to master the local dialect!<br />
See p8<br />
48<br />
Haji Lane (p27)<br />
When to go<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong>’s weather is hot and humid<br />
with little variation throughout the year.<br />
The average daytime temperature is<br />
31°C dropping to around 24°C at night.<br />
so if you want to weather the weather,<br />
dress accordingly.<br />
Smoking<br />
Smoking is not permitted on public<br />
transport, in museums, libraries, lifts,<br />
cinemas, supermarkets, department<br />
stores, hair salons, air-conditioned<br />
restaurants and government offices.<br />
Alfresco cafes have designated smoking<br />
areas. Smoking is permitted in specified<br />
rooms within air-conditioned pubs and<br />
nightspots, but not in eating places.<br />
Light up where it’s allowed, otherwise be<br />
prepared for a hefty SGD$1,000 fine.<br />
Get lost in<br />
Chinatown (p20)<br />
Customs<br />
To buy duty-free goods when entering<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong>, you have to have been away<br />
for at least two nights. You can’t bring<br />
cigarettes into <strong>Singapore</strong>, but you can buy<br />
them on the way out. There are no dutyfree<br />
concessions on cigarettes or other<br />
tobacco items. You are not allowed to bring<br />
in chewing gum, firecrackers or pirated<br />
DVDs and CDs (www.customs.gov.sg).<br />
Visas<br />
Nationals of most Western countries do<br />
not require a visa to visit, and if visiting as<br />
a tourist, will be given ‘social visit’ passes<br />
valid for up to 30 days upon arrival. Please<br />
refer to the Immigration and Checkpoints<br />
Authority’s website (www.ica.gov.sg) for the<br />
most up-to-date information.<br />
Tax refunds<br />
A 7 per cent Goods & Services<br />
Tax (GST) is charged on most items.<br />
Foreign visitors can claim back the GST<br />
when leaving Changi Airport. You must<br />
spend a minimum amount of S$100<br />
(including GST) on purchases from the<br />
same retailer in the same day to qualify for<br />
a refund (see p35). You may accumulate<br />
up to a maximum of three same-day<br />
receipts or invoices from the same retailer<br />
to meet this minimum purchase amount.<br />
49<br />
Useful phone<br />
numbers<br />
All the stuff you need to know (before you get lost)... <strong>Singapore</strong>’s international dialing<br />
code is +65. While in <strong>Singapore</strong><br />
and if you have international<br />
roaming service on your mobile,<br />
you don’t have to press +65.<br />
Your<strong>Singapore</strong><br />
Guide<br />
Free<br />
Useful apps<br />
HoSay!<br />
Free<br />
Emergency<br />
Police 999<br />
Ambulance/Fire 995<br />
Flight information 1800 542 4422<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong> country code +65<br />
General info<br />
Tourist information 1800 736 2000<br />
Embassies<br />
Australia 25 Napier Rd<br />
+65 6836 4100<br />
New Zealand 391a Orchard Rd<br />
+65 6235 9966<br />
Medical services<br />
Raffles Hospital<br />
585 North Bridge Rd, +65 6311 1111<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong> General Hospital<br />
Outram Rd, +65 6222 3322<br />
Gleneagles Hospital<br />
6A Napier Rd, +65 6473 7222<br />
Credit cards<br />
MasterCard 800 110 0113<br />
American Express 1800 396 6000<br />
Visa 800 448 1250<br />
Useful websites<br />
Your<strong>Singapore</strong>.com<br />
TimeOut<strong>Singapore</strong>.com<br />
GoThere.sg<br />
US$2.99<br />
Hungrygowhere<br />
Free
Getting around<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong>’s transportation system makes getting around easy<br />
Airport transfer<br />
Taxis are abundant at the airport and<br />
a trip to the city costs around $20-25,<br />
plus surcharges. Several companies<br />
provide the airport transfer services,<br />
which you can book even before you<br />
travel to <strong>Singapore</strong>, a half or full day<br />
in advance. Among them are Limo Taxi<br />
(www.limomaxi.com) and Limousine<br />
Cab (www.limousinecab.com), best<br />
booked for groups of four and above.<br />
Fares start from $45 and surcharges<br />
apply for rides to and from the airport.<br />
Taxi<br />
You should be able to hail a cab<br />
without any problems in most par ts of<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong>, but bear in mind: vehicles<br />
are not allowed to wait or even stop<br />
on roads with painted double yellow<br />
jagged lines. It is always best to<br />
get a cab from one of the numerous<br />
taxi stands in <strong>Singapore</strong> – hotels and<br />
shopping centre taxi stands are a<br />
sure bet.<br />
The city’s major cab companies are:<br />
CityCab (+65) 6552 1111<br />
Premier Taxis (+65) 6476 8880<br />
Maxi Cab (+65) 6535 3534<br />
SMRT Taxis (+65) 6555 8888<br />
Bus<br />
Bus services operate all around<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong>, including less accessible<br />
areas and a handy bus service called<br />
the Nite Owl, which operates on<br />
Fridays, Saturdays and the eve of<br />
Public Holidays. Fares are distancebased<br />
and typically costs under $2.<br />
Most buses are equipped with airconditioning.<br />
Lost? Ask a local!<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong>ans are friendly folk. If<br />
you’re lost, ask one for directions!<br />
MRT<br />
The Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) system is<br />
probably the fastest way to get around<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong> besides taxis. Besides being<br />
one of the cleanest transport systems in<br />
the world, the MRT provides scenic views<br />
of <strong>Singapore</strong>’s heartland and some city<br />
areas, though you may want to avoid peak<br />
hours for a smoother ride. Download the<br />
unofficial MRT map from yoursingapore.<br />
com/getlost (under Plan your trip) to uncover<br />
the hidden gems behind the stops.<br />
The EZ-Link card (a stored-value card) is a<br />
fuss-free way to travel on trains and buses.<br />
For buses, just tap the card on the reader<br />
as you board and remember to tap out when<br />
you alight. EZLink cards can be purchased<br />
or topped up at MRT stations island-wide.<br />
Passes & tours<br />
See <strong>Singapore</strong> Attractions Pass<br />
Powered by iVenture, this credit<br />
card-style pass includes entries to<br />
over 15 of <strong>Singapore</strong>’s favourite<br />
attractions(seesingaporepass.<br />
iventurecard.com).<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong> Sightseeing Pass (SSP)<br />
This full day touring pass provides<br />
unlimited hop-on-hop-off rides on<br />
land and on water (ducktours.com.sg).<br />
The Original <strong>Singapore</strong> Walks<br />
These walks work on a simple<br />
principle: to bring people into<br />
places most other tours don’t<br />
(journeys.com.sg.)<br />
The Real <strong>Singapore</strong> Tours<br />
Activity-based tours covering<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong>an culture, heritage,<br />
food, and much more(betelbox.com/<br />
singapore-tours).<br />
50 51<br />
Mass Rapid Transit System Map, © 2011. Land Transport Authority <strong>Singapore</strong><br />
Woodlands Sembawang<br />
NS9<br />
NS11<br />
Kranji<br />
NS7<br />
NS8 NS10<br />
Marsiling<br />
Admiralty<br />
7<br />
Yishun<br />
NS13<br />
NE17 PTC Punggol<br />
PE7 Damai<br />
PE6 Oasis<br />
PE5 Kadaloor<br />
Kupang*<br />
SW2 Farmway<br />
SW1 Cheng Lim*<br />
SW3<br />
Thanggam SW4<br />
Fernvale SW5<br />
NS5<br />
Yew Tee<br />
STC<br />
Layar SW6<br />
Tongkang SW7<br />
Renjong SW8<br />
Sengkang NE16<br />
Khatib<br />
NS14<br />
Segar<br />
BP11<br />
Senja<br />
BP13<br />
BP12<br />
Jelapang<br />
Bukit Panjang LRT BP<br />
Ten Mile<br />
Junction<br />
Teck BP14 Bukit<br />
Whye Panjang<br />
BP4<br />
BP6<br />
South<br />
View<br />
BP2<br />
Fajar<br />
BP10<br />
BP1<br />
Choa Chu Kang NS4<br />
Yio Chu Kang<br />
NS15<br />
Bangkit<br />
BP9<br />
PE4 Riviera<br />
Punggol LRT PG<br />
Cove PE1<br />
Meridian PE2<br />
Coral Edge PE3<br />
SE1 Compassvale<br />
SE2 Rumbia<br />
BP3 BP5<br />
Keat Phoenix<br />
Hong<br />
BP8<br />
Pending<br />
Buangkok NE15<br />
Petir<br />
BP7<br />
Ang Mo Kio<br />
NS16<br />
Hougang NE14<br />
Lorong Chuan<br />
CC14<br />
Marymount<br />
CC16<br />
Bukit Gombak NS3<br />
SE3 Bakau<br />
Sengkang LRT SK<br />
SE4<br />
Ranggung SE5<br />
Kangkar<br />
Kovan NE13<br />
NS17 CC15<br />
Bishan<br />
CC17<br />
Caldecott<br />
Braddell NS18<br />
NS2<br />
Bukit Batok<br />
Serangoon<br />
CC13<br />
NE12<br />
CC19<br />
Botanic Gardens<br />
Pasir Ris 1<br />
EW1<br />
Bartley<br />
CC12<br />
Woodleigh<br />
NE11<br />
Toa Payoh NS19<br />
Potong Pasir<br />
NE10<br />
EW2<br />
Tampines<br />
Tai Seng<br />
CC11<br />
Boon Keng<br />
NE9<br />
MacPherson<br />
Eunos Bedok<br />
EW7 EW5<br />
CC10<br />
2<br />
EW29<br />
Joo Koon<br />
EW3<br />
Simei<br />
Aljunied<br />
EW9<br />
EW4 Tanah Merah<br />
EW8 CC9<br />
EW6<br />
Paya Lebar Kembangan<br />
Expo<br />
CG1<br />
Dakota<br />
CC8<br />
EW10<br />
Kallang<br />
3<br />
CG2<br />
Changi<br />
Airport<br />
Mountbatten<br />
CC7<br />
EW11<br />
Lavender<br />
Stadium<br />
CC6<br />
EW12<br />
Bugis<br />
Nicoll Highway<br />
CC5<br />
Esplanade<br />
CC3<br />
Legend<br />
North South Line NS<br />
East West Line EW<br />
Pioneer Lakeside<br />
Jurong East<br />
EW28<br />
EW26<br />
NS1 EW24<br />
Farrer Road CC20<br />
Novena NS20<br />
EW27<br />
EW25<br />
Newton NS21<br />
Boon Lay Chinese 4<br />
Holland CC21<br />
Garden<br />
EW23 Village<br />
Orchard NS22<br />
Farrer Park<br />
Clementi<br />
NE8<br />
Dover EW22<br />
<strong>Little</strong> India<br />
NE7<br />
Buona Vista EW21 CC22<br />
Somerset NS23<br />
8<br />
one-north CC23<br />
Dhoby Ghaut<br />
EW20<br />
Bras<br />
Kent Ridge CC24<br />
NS24 NE6 CC1<br />
Commonwealth<br />
Basah<br />
CC2<br />
EW19<br />
Queenstown<br />
Chinatown NE5<br />
Haw Par Villa CC25<br />
EW18<br />
NE4 Clarke<br />
Redhill<br />
Quay<br />
Pasir Panjang CC26<br />
EW17<br />
Tiong Bahru<br />
EW16 NE3<br />
Labrador Park CC27 Outram Park<br />
NS25 EW13<br />
City Hall<br />
Telok Blangah CC28<br />
EW15<br />
NS26 EW14<br />
Tanjong<br />
Raffles Place<br />
HarbourFront NE1 CC29<br />
Pagar<br />
**<br />
Promenade<br />
CC4<br />
North East Line NE<br />
Circle Line CC<br />
Bukit Panjang LRT BP<br />
Bayfront<br />
CE1<br />
9<br />
6<br />
Sengkang LRT SK<br />
Punggol LRT PG<br />
CE2<br />
Marina Bay NS27<br />
Interchange Station<br />
Bus Interchange Station<br />
5<br />
10<br />
FOOTNOTE:<br />
* Denote stations which are currently not in operation along existing lines.<br />
** Please board the Sentosa Express at VivoCity Lobby, Level 3<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong><br />
Mass Rapid Transit System Map, C 2011<br />
MRT & LRT System map
way<br />
Holland Flyover<br />
Queensway<br />
Alexandra Rd<br />
Farrer Rd<br />
Commonwealth<br />
Alexandra Rd<br />
Holland Rd<br />
Dempsey<br />
Hill<br />
erson Rd<br />
Holland Rd<br />
Tanglin Rd<br />
Cluny<br />
Rd<br />
Napier Rd<br />
Tanglin Rd<br />
Jin Bukit Merah<br />
Henderson Rd<br />
Delta Rd<br />
Lower<br />
Grange Rd<br />
Stevens Rd<br />
River Valley Rd<br />
Jin Bukit Merah<br />
Paterson Rd<br />
<strong>Singapore</strong> <strong>Little</strong><br />
<strong>Black</strong> <strong>Book</strong><br />
So you think you know <strong>Singapore</strong>?<br />
Think again. Time Out’s <strong>Little</strong> <strong>Black</strong><br />
<strong>Book</strong> is your guide to one of Asia’s<br />
most vibrant destinations. Get lost –<br />
and find the real <strong>Singapore</strong>...<br />
Tiong<br />
Bahru
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