Zadar - In Your Pocket

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
20
Europe’s best city
guides for more than
20 years
N°9 - complimentary copy
zadar.inyourpocket.com
ZADAR
Summer S 2012
A celebratory year
180 years of the Zadar National
Museum and 800 years of the
Franciscan Heritage
A sizzling destination
Discover why this ancient city is
full of zest, zip and zing.

ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES
Contents
Arriving in Zadar 6
Wherefore beer?
Basics 7
Tricks, tariffs and smoking
History 8
Kings queens, rooks and pawns
Culture & Events 10
Everything that´s on in Zadar
Where to Stay 20
Hole up for the night in style (or disrepair)
Restaurants 23
Food goes in your tummy. Mmmmm.
Cafés 28
Where to sit and sip
Nightlife 29
Shake your thang
What to See 31
Eyes front!
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Summertime is just one long performance...
CONTENTS
Ah iz lyin low on mah lilo.
Mail & Phones 37
21st century smoke signals
Getting Around 38
All dressed up and somewhere to go?
Sport 41
Climbing, diving and mountain biking
Diving 43
Shopping 45
We´ll help you get rid of that extra cash
Business Directory 47
Lifestyle Directory 48
Birdwatching 50
Back to nature
Zadar County 53
Maps & Index
City map/Street index 62
City centre map 64
County map 66
Country map 67
Summer 2012
3

4 FOREWORD
Summer has struck and the forecast indicates another
sizzling season of fun and excitement in Zadar. Our crew
has worked day and night to gather all of the latest in where
to be and what to do. We have something for everyone!
Nature enthusiasts will be treated to some of the finest
national parks and islands in Europe whilst those that seek
an adrenalin rush can fill their calendars with adventure
sports throughout the entire summer - see in particular our
feature on diving. As always, we guide you through the most
important sights to see - this year is a special one of Zadar’s
fabulous National Museum since it celebrates its 180th
birthday. As you have chosen your stay along the Adriatic, we
cannot leave without mentioning the gastronomic delights
that await you. Our pages on cafés and restaurants are
practical and provide some insightful tips in choosing where
to nibble and dine. We wish you all a sensational summer!
QR Code
This QR code contains
the website address,
www.inyourpocket.
com/croatia/zadar
for Zadar In Your Pocket:
and a user having
a camera phone equipped
with the correct
reader software can
scan this image of the QR Code causing the
phone‘s browser to launch and redirect to the
programmed URL. Save the image and print it
out any way you want.
Pdf Guides...
Did you know you can download free
pdf guides to many of our In Your Pocket
destinations? They’re 64-page versions
featuring a careful selection of hotels,
restaurants and other useful information.
Simply go to our international homepage,
www.inyourpocket.com. You’ll see a banner at the top
“Download free guides”. Click on it, and a new page will
open up. Choose the city you want, click and print! You’re
ready to go!
ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES
Zadar In Your Pocket
Draškovićeva 66
Croatia
tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70
fax (+385-1) 492 39 24
zagreb@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1334-9228
©Plava Ponistra d.o.o.
Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedelja
Cover: St Francis Cloister, Stjepan
Felber
Editorial
Editor Višnja Arambašić
Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac
Contributors Nataly Anderson, Frank
Jelinčić, Tocher Mitchell, Jonathan
Bousfield
Researcher Anita Piplović, Blanka
Valić
Layout & Design Gordan Karabogdan,
Kornelia Kovačević
Photos Zadar In Your Pocket team,
Tourist Board Zadar, TZ Dugi Otok,
Stjepan Felber, Darko Podravec, Tim
Ertl
Sales & Circulation
General Manager Višnja Arambašić
Sales & Circulation Manager
Kristijan Vukičević
zagreb@inyourpocket.com
Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o
The World of In Your Pocket
Northern
Ireland
Ireland
Netherlands
Germany
Poland
Belgium
Czech
Republic
Estonia
Russia
Latvia
Lithuania
Belarus
Ukraine
Austria
Switzerland
Slovenia
Romania
Croatia
Italy Bosnia
Serbia
Bulgaria
Montenegro Kosovo
FYR Macedonia
Albania
Greece
It was 20 years ago this summer that the first In
Your Pocket hit the streets of Vilnius, Lithuania.
Since then, we have grown to become the largest
publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe.
We now cover more than 75 cities across the
continent (with more on the way) and the number
of In Your Pocket guides published each year is
approaching an amazing five million.
Always an innovative publisher, we have just
launched a new version of our iPhone app, which
can now be downloaded for free from the AppStore.
Search for ‘IYP Guides’ by name.
To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your
Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/
inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/
inyourpocket). You can also now follow our tips on
Foursquare (foursquare.com/inyourpocket).
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright Plava
Ponistra 1992 - 2012. Maps copyright
cartographer. All rights reserved. No part
of this publication may be reproduced
in any form, except brief extracts for
the purpose of review, without written
permission from the publisher and
copyright owner. The brand name In
Your Pocket is used under license from
UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu g. 9-4,
LT-01124, Vilnius, Lithuania).
Editor’s note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket
guides is independent from paid-for
advertising. Sponsored listings are
clearly marked as such. We welcome all
readers‘ comments and suggestions.
We have made every effort to ensure
the accuracy of the information at the
time of going to press and assume no
responsibility for changes and errors.
Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com

ŠTEDNJA SE ISPLATI.
MUDRO UOKVIRENA ŠTEDNJA.
GROWING YOUR MONEY.
WISELY STRUCTURED SAVINGS.
SPAREN LOHNT SICH.
KLUG GESTALTETES SPARBUCH.
IL RISPARMIO CONVIENE.
RISPARMI BEN STRUTTURATI.
���������������������������������������������������������������������������������
5,00%
EUR

6 ARRIVING IN ZADAR
By boat
Travelling by boat is a great option in summertime. Why
waste your time frying in traffic when you could be sunning
yourself on the deck with a cool drink, watching the islands go
by, or enjoying the cool night breeze? Your arrival in Zadar is
spectacular: the ferries dock right on the Old Town peninsula.
All the amenities of the Old Town are just behind that defensive
wall you see there. Jadrolinija’s international services connect
Zadar with Ancona (Italy) almost every day.
By bus
Zadar Coach Station, Ante Starčevića 1, tel. 060
305 305. Bus travel is the preferred method of public
transportation for earthbound Croatians, because it remains,
for the time being, the quickest and most comfortable way of
getting around the country.
Prices are reasonable: a single ticket to Zagreb costs around
125kn. There are frequent links to all Croatian cities and,
especially in high season, abroad.
The bus station is on the crossroads northeast of the Old
Town heading towards Split, Rijeka and Zagreb. Because the
bus services are so much used, the bus station is a real hub
and has everything you need. Left luggage: the garderoba
is in the ticket hall and works from 06:00 to 22:00 and costs
2.20kn per hour. Toilets: located on the right as you face
the building from the platforms. Public phones are on the
platforms and in front of the building. Shops and cafes: At
least one snack bar works all night, and news kiosks, bakeries
and a mini-market are all open from about 06:00 to 22:00,
except weekends, when they may close earlier. There are
several cafes where you can take the weight off until your
connection arrives. Getting to town: On the road in front of
the bus station are bus stops for the local lines which take
you to the Old Town, Borik, Diklo and the suburbs. A 10kn
ticket bought inside the bus gets you a one way trip; a 16kn
ticket bought at the ticket office (Open 07:00 - 14:00, Sat
07:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun) buys you two trips.
Prices for the summer season were not finalized by the time
of going to print!
By car
The A1 motorway between Zagreb and Dalmatia is a
complete, navigable whole with no interruptions. Zadar is
the first port of call, and the motorway continues past all the
major resorts on the way to Split and beyond. Journey time
between Zagreb and Zadar is about 2.5 hours depending
on when you travel. Since most holidaymakers travel at
weekends, there can be congestion on borders, at motorway
toll booths, intersections, ferry terminals and around coastal
resorts on Fridays and Sundays. If you can’t avoid travelling
at weekends, you may find that the roads clear up in the
evening. Tolls are payable on Croatian motorways - most
currencies are accepted.
If a strong “bura”, a northeast wind, is blowing, the motorway
bridge closes. This rarely happens in the summer, but if it
does, you can now use the reopened Maslenica bridge, which
was destroyed in the war. It’s far more sheltered from these
winds. Take the old road to Maslenica which runs parallel to
the motorway.
For up to date traffic information, check out the Croatian
Automobile Club website at www.hak.hr. They have regular
updates in English, German and Italian. Also listen out for
foreign language reports for tourists on local radio.
By plane
Zadar Airport - Zračna luka Zadar, flight info tel. (+385-
23) 20 58 00. www.zadar-airport.hr.
Zadar’s airport (zračna luka) is in Zemunik Donji, 9km
southeast of the city. Changing money: OTP banka in the
passenger terminal operates an exchange service and an
ATM. Calling home: Purchase a phone card at a newsstand
and use one of the public pay phones. Getting to town:
Liburnija runs buses between the terminal, the city bus
station and the quayside near the ferryport on the Old Town
peninsula. Bus lines are organised to connect with the flight
timetable, and one-way tickets cost 25kn.
By train
Zadar Train Station, Ante Starčevića 4, National info line:
060 333 444, www.hznet.hr
The train station is right next to the bus station. Somehow,
transport planners failed to integrate Zadar with mainline
routes. This means that journeys between Zadar and
Zagreb or Split are possible but involve changing trains and
take considerably longer than travel by bus. The fastest
connections leave Zagreb for Zadar at 10:55 throughout the
tourist season. Journey time is about 7½ hours, involving a
change at Knin. Full price adult fares are 166.70 - 176.70kn
single and 262 - 270kn return - considerably more expensive
than the slow train, but much faster. Or you can load your
car onto the sleeper for Split and drive on from Knin. There
are several trains per day between Zagreb and Split, taking
anything between 5 and 9 hours. A single ticket costs
171.20 - 188.20kn.
The train station doesn’t have a lot of facilities, but since
you are next door to the bus station, you can make use of
all the services available there. The ticket office is open
07:20 - 14:50. Closed Sat, Sun. Outside those times tickets
can be bought on board the trains. A kiosk outside the main
entrance works from 06:00 to about 21:00. Getting to
town: see “By bus”.
Tourist information
�
Tourist Information Centre D-3,
Mihe Klaića 2, tel. (+385-23) 31 61
66, info@tzzadar.hr, www.tzzadar.
hr. Q July - September 30 Open 08:00
-24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 -24:00.
Zadar County Tourist Board A-3, Sv.Leopolda
Mandića, tel. (+385-23) 31 53 16, fax (+385-23) 31
51 07, tz-zd-zup@zd.t-com.hr, www.zadar.hr. QOpen
07.00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Zadar Tourist Board D-3, Ilije Smiljanića 5, tel.
(+385-23) 21 22 22, fax (+385-23) 21 17 81, tzgzadar@zd.t-com.hr,
www.tzzadar.hr. QOpen 08:00
- 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
www.inyourpocket.com
Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com

Basic data
Population:
Croatia (April 2011): 4,290,612
Zadar County: 170,398
Zadar (April 2011): 75,082
Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2.
It borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia, Montenegro,
Bosnia-Herzegovina and there is a sea-border with Italy.
Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attraction
for good reason - the crystal clear waters are some
of the most beautiful on the planet and were just named
some of its most pure!
Zadar County: Zadar County measures 7,854km2, of
which roughly half is sea. The islands belonging to Zadar
County measure 580km2.
Islands: An amazing 1,246 islands lie off the Dalmatian
coast, 47 of them inhabited.
Climate: Mediterranean
Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European
Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Zadar it is 12:00
in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in
Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.
Climate
Temperature, °C
30
20
10
0
-10
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Rainfall, mm
100
-20 J F M A M J J A S O N D
Emergency number 112
Police 192
Fire department 93
Ambulance 94
Coast guard 9155
75
50
25
0
BASICS
Customs
All major items brought into the country (laptops, boats, sauna
equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you will be
allowed to take them back when you leave. Keep receipts
in order to qualify for a VAT refund at all border customs
offices. Any Croatian art or cultural works must receive export
approval before purchase. For further details www.carina.hr
or call +385-1 610 23 25/610 24 61.
Electricity
The electricity supply is 220W, 50hz, so visitors from the
United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical
appliances.
Roads
If you’re under 24 years of age, the 0,0% rule still applies to
you. If you are, however, over that age, a new limit of 0,5%
applies to you, effective June 1, 2008. Once again, we’ll leave
it to others to debate the pros and cons of this change, but
given the mountainous terrain along the coast, this law will
probably save lives. And the police are enforcing it.
Speed kills more people on Croatian roads than alcohol does.
Speed traps are common along the Adriatic highway and
speed patrol cars have been introduced on the motorways.
The speed limit in urban areas is 50kph unless otherwise
marked; 80kph on secondary roads and 130kph on highways.
On the spot fines are payable for offences. If you are stopped
for any reason, you will be expected to show your driving
licence, car registration papers and insurance certificate,
so make sure to always keep them with you.
Money
The unit of currency is the kuna (kn) - most places are not
able to accept foreign currency. Kuna notes come in 5,
10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1000kn denominations,
and coins in 1, 2, 5 and 25 kuna. The kuna is divided into
100 lipa. 50, 20, 10, 5 and even worse-than-useless 2
lipa coins exist.
You can exchange money in banks and private ex change
bu reaux. Bank ATMs are to be found in most towns - but
don’t rely on this in small island villages. Credit cards are
com mon ly accepted, with the ex cep tion of smaller restau
rants, shops and guest hous es - check in advance.
National holidays
January 1 New Year’s Day
January 6 Epiphany
April 8 Easter
April 9 Easter Monday
May 1 International Workers' Day
June 7 Corpus Christi
June 22 Anti Fascist Resistance Day
June 25 Statehood Day
August 5 Victory and Homeland
Thanksgiving Day
August 15 Feast of the Assumption
October 8 Independence Day
November 1 All Saints’ Day
December 25 Christmas
December 26 Saint Stephen’s Day
www.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2012
7

8 HISTORY
A. Ključanin, A dancer captured among the debris left by the shelling of the 1990s National Zadar Museum (Archives)
Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com

In the 15th century, internal fights within the Croatian-
Hungarian state resulted in its loss of influence in Dalmatia,
and Zadar, together with much of the surrounding mainland
and islands, were sold to Venice for 100 000 ducats. Although
there was widescale repression of the local inhabitants, Zadar
remained the capital of Dalmatia under Venice. It was the main
port and naval base on the East Adriatic. Building continued
- this was the late Gothic and early Renaissance period.
In the 16th century, Turkey invaded inland Dalmatia, and
Zadar retreated behind reinforced bastions, and, aided by
the Venetian colonisers, became the largest city-fortress
in the Venetian Republic. Although trade withered, art and
culture experienced a further period of blossoming. Plague,
however, ravaged the city.
In 1699, a peace was concluded with the Turks signalling
the end of war. A century later, Napoleon’s armies defeated
Venice, and Zadar and Dalmatia were peacefully attached to
the Hapsburg Empire, only to be handed back to the French in
1805. Under the French, Zadar enjoyed eight years of social
reform and awakening of public consciousness, until the
Austrians took the city back again in 1813.
The Austrians administered the region from Zadar for the next
hundred years. The regime, although strict, was in many ways
progressive. Museums were founded, road links improved,
and the first modern city water system was completed in
1838. Croatians in Zadar, with an ever-growing awaress of
national identity, began to press for linguistic and political
autonomy. The Dalmatian Parliament (Sabor) was founded
in 1861. Peace reigned, and in 1868, some of the outer
fortifications surrounding the Old Town were dismantled,
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Pillar of shame, 1913.
HISTORY
Foša Harbour, 1913.
giving the southern side (the Riva) its present promenade.
Parks were built, and cultural life prospered once more. In
1898 Zadar was connected to the electricity grid - the first
town in what is now Croatia.
In 1918, the Austro-Hungarian Empire collapsed, and the
1920 treaty of Rapallo between Italy and the Kingdom of
Serbs, Croats and Slovenes handed a section of the coast,
including Zadar, to the Italians, who called it Zara. Zadar
remained under Italian rule until it was occupied by the
Germans, then liberated by the Allies in 1944, to become
part of Tito’s Yugoslavia. Unfortunately, in the process, they
bombed 65 percent of the city to ruins.
However, in the 1950s an enthusiastic programme of
rebuilding took place. Many of the buildings on Široka ulica
(or Kalelarga) the beloved main throroughfare of the old town,
date back to this time. Industry developed and the population
expanded fivefold from its post-war number of 6000. In the
1960s, the importance of tourism grew.
Relative peace and prosperity began to fall apart during
the 1980s when economic problems and the decay of the
Socialist bloc led to national unrest. Croatia found itself in
an untenable position within the borders of Yugoslavia, and
Zadar in an even more uncomfortable position with a volatile
Serb majority in the Krajina hinterland. During the war of
1991-1995, Zadar was under siege for three months, and
bombarded from positions further afield for most of the
duration of the war. The population was forced underground,
surviving on inadequate supplies of food and water.
Though the scars of all these wars are still visible, rebuilding
is now taking place in every sense.
Summer 2012
9

10 CULTURE & EVENTS
Ethno
24.07 Tuesday
Ansambl LADO
In front of St.Mary’s Church (crkva sv. Marije), Forum,
www.lado.hr.. LADO, the Croatian Folk Dance Ensemble,
was founded in 1949 as a professional national institution
responsible for keeping the folk tradition alive. It has a
repertoire of over 100 choreographed pieces, several
hundred vocal and instrumental numbers, and over 1000
costumes representing the folk tradition across Croatia. All
material is researched by experts who delve deep into the
past but also consider that the folk tradition is created by
the people, is alive and free to express itself. Lado really is
a national treasure, and if you should get the chance to see
them, you won’t be disappointed. Show starts at 21:30. Q
Seats 50kn, standing free.
15.08 Wednesday
Zvonko Bogdan & Tamburaši
B-3, Forum One of Croatia’s legendary folk singers who
reinvigorates traditional songs from various nearby regions.
Bogdan often plays with a tambura orchestra (various string
instruments) which provides that true ethno harmonic
background. Witness a living legend of Croatian folk! Concert
starts at 21:30. Q J
Exhibitions
07.12 2011 Tuesday - 08.12 2012 Saturday
Flora and Fauna of the Adriatic
C-2, National Museum Zadar (Natural history
department), Poljana pape Aleksandra III bb, tel. (+385-
23) 25 18 51. Who says you need to get wet in order to see
what is under the sea? This exhibit systematically presents
its plants and animals from microscopic flora and fauna
through to the Adriatic’s largest sharks and sea turtles. The
exhibition will showcase 512 items with 52 photographs and
460 animal or plant samples. Educational and tops for all
ages! Q Admission 15kn.
Raoul Goldoni
11.01 2011 Wednesday - 31.12 2012 Monday
Historical Maritime Collection: Maritime
heritage
D-3, Knigh’t Palace, Poljana Šime Budinića 66, www.
nmz.hr. Since Zadar is a seafaring kind of a city, it’s only
logical that it has a collection of interesting artefacts relating
to maritime history. This part of collection is the result of
more than six decades of work of careful hands from Zadar’s
historical institute, and in 2012 it became fully open to the
public for the first time. You can learn about the chronology
of sailing in this area from prehistoric times all the way up
to modern times; there are some beautiful models of old
galleons typical of this region, plus fascinating old maps,
weaponry and nautical instruments.
05.05 Saturday - 31.08 Friday
Raoul Goldoni: Glass Sculptures
D-2, The Museum of Anicent Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog
odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 33, www.mas-zadar.
hr. Is art your forte? Art that is glass, then get a glimpse
of Goldoni’s opus, a Croatian pioneer of glass art unique
for use, free design and multiple compositions. Born in
Split, this artist began working with glass in 1956 and soon
after established an
influential academic
career around Zagreb
and its surroundings.
The sculptor and
designer even
delved in Murano
art from the island
of Venice so as to
enhance his continual
experimentation with glass as a medium. Notable works
include curvy organic shapes and figurative compositions
resembling crystallized animal and human forms such as his
Vepar (Wild Boar), 1968, and Zeleni torsoe (Green Torso),
1979.
Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com

Israel Magic
12.07 Thursday - 19.07 Thursday
Get a better insight into Israeli customs with this seven
day expo that brings together a plethora of people
promoting all forms of Israeli traditions and customs.
See the Yamma Ensemble, the rabbis of the Chabdad
movement, the Mehola Folkore Ensemble, the Hora
Jerusalem Choir and Dafna String Quartet. The best of
Israeli film will also be shown nightly. So shalom! Opening
at 22:00, Forum.
13.07 Friday - 19.07 Thursday
Menashe Kadishmann
B-3, St Donatus’ Church, Poljana pape Ivana Pavla II.
By all means one of Israel’s most famous painters and
sculptors who for over 60 years has been promoting his
works to the world. Kadishmann is known for his 1960s
sculptures and in the mid 90s began painting portraits
of sheep so unique that they became his trademark.
13.07 Friday
Jazz-Klezmer group Apropos.art
Seeking something fresh, groovy and with a bit of hip, then
sprinkled with funk and smothered with Mediterranean
ethno influences, the answer is ‘Jazz-Klezmer’ of course.
Israel’s 5 piece, soaring musicians that combine this
cocktail of influences and give jazz their very own imprint.
Concert starts at 22:00, Forum.
16.07 Monday - 19.07 Thursday
Jerusalem from the Air
D-3, Knight’s Palace, Poljana Šime Budinića bb. The
exhibition, consisting of 25 color photographs, introduces
Jerusalem from a “bird’s eye” caught by the skilful lens
of Duby Tal, who served as a helicopter pilot in the
Israeli Air Force. The photos capture the multifaceted
Jerusalem - old and ancient, new and modern. Master
photographs take us in an air tour of Jerusalem, peeking
into different neighborhoods, streets and gardens along
many historical landmarks.
17.07 Tuesday
Barack Marshall: Rooster
Opened in 2009, choreographer Marshall has brewed
a cultural concoction that features Judaism, Yemenite
folklore, and Biblical texts peppered with modern
music and dance. The plot deals with mans ordeal of
self-assertion, does he trust himself or is he chicken
(fearful)? A colourful tale of cruelty and care! Show starts
at 22:00, Forum
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Lado
CULTURE & EVENTS
Ancient Cinema
15.05 Tuesday - 20.06 Wednesday
Retrospective by Ante Kaštelančić
D-3, City Lodge, Narodni trg. Paying respect to one of
Croatia’s expressionist painters who through his works had
brought to life, his very life. The sea, the waves, wooden
boats, olive groves, grapevines, bare stone, barren land, the
hardship and toil of locals, are all thematic to his work, his
beloved Dalmatia.
18.05 Friday - 31.12 Monday
Iphigenia - the history of one restoration
C-2, National Museum Zadar, Poljana pape Aleksandra III
bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 51. Head to the museum’s ground
floor and get an insight into every stage of the restoration
process of one painting, ‘Iphigenia’. Head to the second floor
to eyewitness the original baroque canvas of large dimension.
Exhibition dates are subject to change. Q J
15.06 Friday - 15.07 Sunday
Ancient Cinema
C-3, Archeological Museum, Trg opatice čike 1, tel.
(+385-23) 25 05 42, www.amzd.hr. Henry Jesionka
presents speculative evidence from an extraordinary
archaeological discovery in Zadar, Croatia, that may set the
history of cinema back almost two thousand years. Having
stumbled across an unusual bronzed object with a slot in it,
and a cache of metal and glass tablets; Jesionka carefully
pieces together several of the glass tablets which produce
typical ancient images. He then begins to produce replicas
- flipping them, even inserting them into the bronzed slot.
What of the results? Jesinoka presents his inspirational
findings in what some may consider the first ancient cinema,
or something abstractly different.
19.06 Tuesday - 09.07 Monday
Dimitrije Popović
D-3, Knight’s Palace, Poljana Šime Budinića bb. This
Montenegrin/Croatian painter has held over 60 solo
exhibitions and is known for his Biblical motifs amongst
other inspirations throughout his opus. From France to Italy
to home, Popović presents a range of aquarelle prints and
each ticket purchased will go towards the fight against cancer.
Exhibition dates are subject to change.
20.06 Wednesday - 15.07 Sunday
Dragan Jelavić - Suspicion of / and Reality
A-3, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 20. Jelavić is
an artist who brings to life his upbringing in the rural village
of Ravča, near Vrgorac. His motives include landscapes,
village buildings, seascapes, nature, religion, and the human
figure amongst other themes whilst also meddling with
graphic art. Q J
Summer 2012
11

The Museum of Ancient Glass
The museum is housed in the nineteenth-century
Cosmacendi Palace, perched on former town walls
overlooking Jazine harbour.
The museum contains one of the finest collections
of Roman glassware outside Italy, with a profusion of
goblets, jars and vials retrieved from archeological sites
across Dalmatia – notably Zadar (ancient Iader), Nin
(Aenona), Starigrad-Paklenica (Argyruntum ) and Podgrađe
(Asseria). Highlights include the delicate, graceful vessels
used by Roman-era ladies to store perfumes, skin creams
and essential oils. These treasured items of domestic
glassware were often taken to the grave by their owners
– much of the collection comes from excavations at
Relja in Zadar, where the main cemetery of ancient Iader
was located. Also look out for glass cups used by early
Christians to celebrate Mass, and dainty flasks in which
holy water was stored.The replica Roman glassware
museum on sale in the museum shop makes this one of
the classiest souvenir-stops in the city.
As part of the museum there is a souvenir workshop
where you can learn more about the almost forgotten
craft of blowing glass in a school purposely made for
just that.
02.07 Monday - 12.07 Thursday
Sculpture exhibition by Aneta Božinova
L-4, City Library, Stjepana Radića 11b, tel. (+385-23) 30
11 03. See the works of a young sculptor in Aneta Božinova.
She was born, educated and raised in Macedonia and has
partaken in 14 solo exhibits to date. Her works primarily
include abstract dimensions of the human body in shape and
form, some of which include an aluminous effect.
zadar.inyourpocket.com
CULTURE & EVENTS
04.07
Wednesday -
31.08 Friday
The Nin Salt
Works
D-3, City Lodge,
Narodni trg. The
Nin Salt Works (
(Solana Nin) is a
rarity in today’s
world as it is one
of the last few sites where salt is produced ‘ala natural’,
whilst keeping the local flora and fauna intact. This exhibit
showcases various dioramas, individual plants and animals
from the area, different salt crystals and more.Exhibition
dates are subject to change.
06.07 Friday - 20.07 Friday
‘Anastazija’ Art Association
A-3, Arsenal, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38
20. Support the local front with this art association which
presents works by artists from the Zadar County.
06.07 Friday - 13.07 Friday
Friends of the Sea - Mediterranean Essays
A-4, Riva. A dedication to the Mediterranean! Large
format photos and the works of artists illustrate various
themes which are inseparable to the sea; including climate,
landscapes, olives, specific food and drinks, habits and
customs that enrich this part of the world. Q J
09.07 Monday - 27.07 Friday
Thank you, Croatia!
C-2, National Museum Zadar, Poljana pape Aleksandra
III bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 51. All countries with Japanese
embassies (150 countries) are organizing photo exhibitions
as a way of thanking those who helped Japan after the
earthquake which struck in 2011. The photos recall images
shortly after the earthquake and tsunami and the visible
changes made one year later. Exhibition dates are subject
to change. Q J
20.07 Friday - 15.09 Saturday
Zvonka Požun:
Glass Painting - old
techniques in new
interpretations
D-2, The Museum of
Ancient Glass, Poljana
Zemaljskog odbora 1,
tel. (+385-23) 36 38
30, www.mas-zadar.
hr. Slovenian born Požun
is crafty indeed; she
began painting on glass
in 1990 and turned it into
a career. She combines
traditional painting in
gold with imaginative
motifs and glass
structure. She works at the Oberglass Centre Bärnbach and
brings her eye-catching works to Zadar.
01.08 Wednesday - 15.08 Wednesday
Nenad Petronia
A-3, Arsenal, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 20.
From the Navy to Fine Art, that is Petronia’s journey that has
led him to many solo and group exhibitions both in Croatia
and abroad. He sculpts and creates installations that define
boundaries, are virtual in concept, and he uses all sort of
material to produce images and affects.
Summer 2012
13

Glass Workshops
Looking for a one of a kind experience, then this blowing
glass workshop ought to put some shine into your stay.
Through a glass window, see how the masters for hand
blowing of glass tend to their craft in creating replicas
from ancient Greece and Rome. It’s a great way to pick
up a readymade souvenir!
13.08 Monday - 25.08 Saturday
Photo Exhibition by Ivana Popović
L-4, City Library, Stjepana Radića 11b, tel. (+385-23)
30 11 03, gkzd@gkzd.hr, www.gkzd.hr. The author of
the exhibition is Ivana Popović, art historian (Human Science
and Resources University at the Zagreb University) and
assistant at the Art and Restoration department of the
Dubrovnik University.
20.08 Monday - 03.09 Monday
Intercultural Art Promotion
C-2, National Museum Zadar, Poljana pape Aleksandra III
bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 51. Art Forum Zadar is an artistic
association that for the 5th consecutive time is holding this
intercultural exhibition. These are works by Croatian and
foreign artists whose artistic expression follows the new wave
of modernism.Exhibition dates are subject to change.
03.09 Monday
Jasna Barišić
D-3, City Lodge, Narodni trg.
Having worked abroad, Barišič
returns home to her native
Zadar and is working on her
Mediterranean cycle using a
combined technique. The shades
used in her paintings range
from warm grey to accentuated
wire cores and red and yellow
eruptions on some of her canvases.Exhibition dates are
subject to change.
Traditional Accapella Evenings
C-3, Široka ulica, Kalelarga. One of the unique aspects
of Croatian culture has to be the tingling sounds of
Dalmatian Klapa (traditional accapella songs that are
sung by a group of singers who vary the range in their
vocal chords - from baritone to tenor). Klape groups
gather to make for an enjoyable monday evening in the
Zadar square.
zadar.inyourpocket.com
CULTURE & EVENTS
15.09 Saturday - 06.10 Saturday
Croatian newspaper photography 2011
D-3, Knigh’t Palace, Poljana Šime Budinića bb. Backtrack
to what made local, national and global news last year with
various Croatian Journalistic Associations coming together to
take a stroll down memory lane as they delve into the topics:
‘Events’, ‘Everyday Life’, ‘Reports/Collections’, ‘Portraits’,
‘Culture and Art’, ‘Sport’ and, ‘Nature and Environment’.
Exhibition dates are subject to change.
Jazz & Latin Concerts
11.07 Wednesday
Live from Buena Vista - The Havana Lounge
B-3, Forum. Latin lovers will be delighted to know that the
sounds of Cuba are just around the corner. Members of the
Buena Vista Social Club revive Havana’s once thriving 1940s
music scene and have since the 1990s resurged on the world
music front. Q J
18.07 Wednesday
Jazz Orchestra HRT & guests
D-3, Poljana Šime Budinića bb. Are you in the mood for
swing? Remember the classics ‘New York, New York and ‘I did
it my way’. Well put on your dancing shoes as some of Zadar’s
finest musical artists get together to perform a repertoire of
Frank Sinatra’s classics. Concert starts 22:00. Q J
Rock & Pop Concerts
25.07 Wednesday
TBF - The Beat Fleet
D-3, Ledana Lounge bar, Perivoj kraljice Jelene
Madijevke, www.ledana.hr. Lyrically provocative, musically
innovative, undoubtedly one of Croatia’s top bands that are
heavily influenced by reggae, hip hop, afro beat, trip hop,
rock and rap. TBF gigs are just as dynamic and front man
Mladen Badovinac is the perfect leader with his deep vocals
and lackadaisical stage presence. Q J
The Beat Fleet
27.07 Friday
Josipa Lisac
B-1, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 21, www.
arsenalzadar.com. She has chart topping hits that cover five
decades but her peak album, ‘Diary of one love’ from 1973,
is stamped as legendary. Her rock roots have tapered and
these days her unique voice and sound is pop melancholy.
She still attracts the tabloids with her avant-garde style,
image and visual appearance. Concert starts at 21:30. Q
Tickets cost 70kn if purchased in advance, otherwise 90kn
on the day of the concert.
Summer 2012
15

16 CULTURE & EVENTS
Theatres
Croatian Theatre House (Kazališna kuća
Zadar) C-3, Široka ulica 8, tel. (+385-23) 31 45 86,
hkk-zd@zd.t-com.hr, www.hkk-zadar.hr.
Zadar Puppet Theatre E-2, Obala kralja Tomislava
bb, tel. (+385-23) 21 27 54.
30.07 Monday
Bryan Adams
B-3, Forum, tel. (+385-23) 31
61 66, info@tzzadar.hr. Canada’s
number one pop/rock singer heads to
Zadar with his husky voice and vibrant
stage persona. By golly the amount of
worldwide hit singles include Have you
ever really loved a woman, Everything
I do, Run to you, Cuts like a knife,
Here I am, Heaven, and of course the
unforgettable Summer of 69. A night
of rock and romance waits. Concert start at 20:00. Q Tickets
250 - 500kn at the Tourist Information Centre, Mihe Klaića 2.
Also at www.eventim.hr.
31.08 Friday
Jinx
B-1, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 21, www.
arsenalzadar.com. Arsenal is a spectacular venue that will
host one of Croatia’s leading commercial pop bands in Jinx.
Having formed in 1993, they have topped charts on numerous
times with even their first album ‘Sextasy’, released in English.
One can expect a laid back, funky catchy gig with flair and
groove. Concert starts 22:00. Q Ticket 70kn in advance, on
the day of the concert 90kn.
Special events
15.06 Friday - 31.08 Friday
Bibano Summer
Punta Beach, Bibinje. Bbbbbb
it’s all about bounce, bop and
beat! Beach party lovers that
crave dance and electronic music
set along crystal clear shores look
no further. Summer isn’t summer
without the…
13.07.Miss Maverik at 18:00
20.07. Miss Kavi at 16:00
20.07. Tom Novy at 18:00
Miss Maverik
28.07. Sam Divine at 18:00
02.08. Thomas Gold at 18:00 Q Free entry.
21.06 Thursday - 23.06 Saturday
Tango Festival
A-3, Arsenal, Trg bunara 1, Q bar, Liburnska obala 6, tel.
(+385-23) 25 38 20, www.tango-zadar.hr. Love Latino
and tango? Then get into the swing of this dance bonanza
as performance groups and pairs strut their stuff at the 3rd
edition of this event. Passers by are more than welcome to
join in and even learn from the best!
Evergreen Evenings
C/D-3, Narodni trg, Poljana Šime Budinića bb. Enjoy
those Tuesdays summer nights as some of Croatia’s
finest musicians perform an array of jazz concerts at
the city square.
Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com

22.06 Friday -
17.08 Friday
Papaya Summer
Festivals
Zrće beach, Novalja,
Pag, info@papaya.
com.hr, www.
papaya.com.hr/.
Papaya is Croatia’s
counterpart to Ibiza
and is one of the
best open air clubs in
Europe. It is set on the
island of Pag, Novalja,
on the beautiful beach
Zrće. During the day,
enjoy the most popular
dance beach parties
which continue into
the night under the
starry sky. Special festival themes add to the flavour as
some of the hottest names in world electronic music pump
their endless tunes. Brace yourselves as the outstanding
line-up says it all…
05.07 - 08.07 Fresh Island Festival
08.07 - 11.07 Mexx Beachattack
17.07 - 20.07 Papaya Day & Night Summer Festival
24.07 - 27.07 Papaya 10th Anniversary Festival
01.08 - 03.08 After Beach Festival
07.08 - 10.08 Connect Festival
14.08 - 17.08 MTV Mag Festival
Q Tickets at www.eventim.hr.
22.06 Friday - 24.06 Sunday
The 2nd Jadera Urban Music Fest
D-3, Kapetanski Park, info@jumf.hr, www.jumf.hr. Three
days of home grown talent is what this event is all about.
The opening is reserved for the finals of the Zadar guitar
playing contest followed by legendary Rambo Amadeus. The
second day brings Goran Bare & Majke, Disciplin A Kitschme,
Edo Maajka . The icing on the cake is Tito & Tarantula. Q
Tickets 60 - 210kn. J
Galleries
Arsenal A-3, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38
20, info@arsenalzadar.com, www.arsenalzadar.com.
QOpen , Mon, Sun 18:00 - 02:00, Wed, Thu, Fri 08:00
- 03:00. Closed Tue, Sat.
City Library L-4, Stjepana Radića 11b, tel. (+385-23)
30 11 03.QOpen 08:00 - 19:30, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun.
City Lodge (Gradska loža) D-3, Narodni trg.QJune 1 -
September 15 Open 09:00 - 22:00. September 16 - May
31 Open 09:00 - 20:00. Admision 15kn.
City Sentinel (Gradska straža) C-3, Narodni trg.
June 1 - September 15 Open 09:00 - 22:00. September
16 - May 31 Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00.
QAdmission 15kn.
Knight’s Palace D-3, Poljana Šime Budinića bb.Q
June 1 - September 15 Open 10:00 - 22:00. September
16 - May 31 Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
Admission 15kn.
Terre Verte B-3, Mate Karamana 10, tel. (+385-23)
25 00 40.QOpen 09:00 - 12:00, 17:30 - 21:00, Sat
09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
zadar.inyourpocket.com
CULTURE & EVENTS
Franciscan Heritage
800 Years of Franciscan Heritage
St Francis of Assisi is well known for his deep respect for
our animal friends and for nature, as well as his insistence
that to follow God one must embrace humility and poverty.
During his lifetime, in the 13th century, it is believed that
St Francis travelled along the Dalmatian coast, founding
a Franciscan monastery right here in Zadar in 1212.
What’s more, during his stay here, he cured a nun of
a three-year-long sickness, and the Franciscan order
received the gift of a monastery garden, while the
Benedictine nuns undertook the Rule of St Clare, an order
founded by St Francis and St Clare of Assisi.
The monastery is a terracotta and yellow building framed
by palm trees with a peaceful courtyard at its centre.
The monastery has a rich treasury and its archive has
books dating back to the 13th century, as well as a
14th century volume describing how to make colours
for decorating books. An exhibition of aerial photos
called “The Monasteries of the Franciscan Province of
St Jerome” is open this summer – see our What to See
section for the address and opening times.
29.06 Friday - 01.07 Sunday
Hideout Festival
Zrće Beach, Novalja,
Island Pag, www.
hideoutfestival.com.
Enter one of the world’s
hottest beach fests with
a star studded line up
that includes electronic
sensation Skrillex, plus
Chase & Status, Simian
Mobile Disco, Annie Mac, Loco Dicea, Seth Troxlera, Sub
Focusa, Benge and Art Departmenta, Ricarda Villalobosa
and others. Tickets are highly sought with a huge ‘British’
contingent flying across especially for the event.
29.06 Friday - 03.08 Friday
The 18th Zadar Summer Theatre
C-3, Deputy’s Palace (courtyard), St Dominic’s Church
(D-3), Hrvatsko narodno kazalište Zadar, Široka ulica 8,
tel. (+385-23) 31 45 86, hkk-zd@zd.t-com.hr. One of the
city’s traditional summer events with theatre performances
and musicals to be held in the evenings, set amidst historical
grandeur. A repertoire of local and foreign art performances
are scheduled. This year’s programme is divided into two:
Part 1 presents a drama and dance programme whilst Part
2 is the musical programme called The Contemporary Music
Festival. Q Tickets 50kn and available at the box office.
05.07 Thursday - 14.08 Tuesday
The 52nd Musical Evenings in St Donatus’s
B-3, St Donatus’s Church, St. Anastasia’s Cathedral,
St. Francis’ Church, Forum (Croatian National Theatre
Zadar, Široka ulica 8), tel. (+385-23) 31 45 52, www.
donat-festival.hr. If you enjoy the ambience of music within
a holy setting, then this international music festival which
combines music and beautiful old church architecture will
delight you. The event will host numerous local ensembles
and solo artists as well as renowned performers of chamber
music from abroad. It’s considered one of the most important
cultural events on the Zadar calendar. Q Open 11:00 - 13:00,
17:00 - 19:00. Sat 11:00 - 13:00. Sundays only at the
concert venues. Tickets 40 - 80kn available at the box office
(Široka ulica 8).
Summer 2012
17

14.07 Saturday - 04.08 Saturday
Musical Mornings in Stomorica
C-4, Church Stomorica. Everyone needs some time to
mellow and between 11:00 and 14:00, Croatian performers
will perform ‘unplugged’ in the remains of the Stomorica
Church. Sounds rather angelic! Well this might turn out to be
an exceptional event alongside some morning coffee.
28.07 Saturday
Millenium
Jump
B/C-4, Obala
Petra Krešimira
IV, Riva. When in
Zadar do as the
Zadrani do! And the
majority of locals
will all be here for
this growing event
which is being held
for the fourth year in a row. It’s the Millennium Jump where
over 1500 people form a joint line and on the word ‘go’ jump
into the water forming a domino effect. It looks spectacular
from the air! The line ranges from the Sea Organ through to
the Faculty of Humanities and Social Science.
29.07 Sunday - 31.07 Tuesday
KalelargArt
B/C-3, Široka ulica (Kalelarga), Narodni Square,
Forum. A street art festival that includes dance and
theatre performances, blues and jazz concerts, fine art,
monodramas, street acrobats, jugglers and magicians. This
is where art is taken to the people; it is held across a range
of city locations and at various times from dusk till dawn.
03.08 Friday
Full Moon Festival
B/C-4, Riva. On the night of the full moon in high summer,
the Riva is lit by torch and candlelight. Boats are turned into
floating markets selling the best tuna and sardines from the
famous fishermen of Kali (Ugljan), clams from Pašman and
mussels from Novigrad. Rustic, temporary konobas serve
everything from šokol from Nin to figs, cheese, rakija and
traditional cooking. If you don’t have the chance to travel to
Zadar’s outlying towns and islands to sample the folklore of
the region, much of it will be showcased here. A memorable
event.
04.08 Saturday - 10.08 Friday
3rd Starigrad Paklenica Film Festival
Starigrad, tel. (+385-23) 369 18 73, info@spff.hr,
www.spff.hr. This serene old coastal town turns musical
by paying tribute to both Croatian and world musical greats
through film documentaries. The festival presents local and
world productions showing musical icons in a different light,
through biographies or whilst at work creating their music.
What’s more, the town turns into a stage with matinees and
concerts held across various town locations.
05.08 Sunday - 07.08 Tuesday
Beat the Heat
Aquarius Zrće, Novalja, tel. (+385-) 91 199 78 99, info@
aquarius.hr. Another smashing festival with three world
class DJ’s. Deniz Koyu electronic dance music producer who
specializes in progressive house and electro house opens
the festival with his hit single ‘Tung’. Show starts at 23:00.
Q Tickets 190,00kn.
zadar.inyourpocket.com
CULTURE & EVENTS
National Museum
The National Museum is 180 Years Old
Zadar’s National Museum is a pretty impressive
institution, encompassing the Natural History Museum,
an excellent exhibition of Croatian architecture in the
Knight’s Palace, the Maritime Collection, the City Lodge
gallery, the City Sentinel’s ethnographic collection, and
lastly the Museum of the City of Zadar. To celebrate
this grand anniversary, in 2012 a load of special
events will take place including a fashion show of
contemporary clothing featuring traditional embroidered
cloth; exhibitions in the City Lodge and workshops in the
Knight’s Palace. Any philatelists out there may buy a
commemorative stamp featuring Saint Chrysogonous for
the princely sum of 1.55 kn – get thee to a post office now!
09.08 Thursday - 12.08 Sunday
Saljski užanci
Sali, Dugi otok. As tradition stands, you will be invited by a
band of young musicians dressed in ceremonial outfits who
march through the town playing a horn type instrument. And
that’s when the fun begins; donkey races, klape (acapella
singers), Croatian musicians, folk ensembles and local food.
This bonanza is held in Sali on the island Dugi otok.
25.08 Saturday - 31.08 Friday
The 3rd Film Forum Festival
B-3, Forum, tel. (+385) 99 413 43 59, office@
filmforumzadar.com, http://www.filmforumzadar.com/
en/the-player/. In
partnership with the
Producers Network
at the ‘Marche du
Film’ in Cannes, this
event conjugates
over 500 world
producers who
kindle international
film co-productions.
This year features
European coproductions
and
documentaries, a
reminiscent section
named ‘Classics
on the Adriatic’
and more. We just
might meet the new
Spielberg here?
Feštice
www.inyourpocket.com
20.06 Wednesday - 05.09 Wednesday
Široka ulica, Kalelarga. Zadar returns to the past on
Fridays, organising mini festivals, or feštice, to bring the
original spirit of Dalmatia to the week’s big night out. In the
Old Town, stalls spring up selling fresh, simple, fishy food
and bevanda - white wine and water, a popular drink in
hot weather. Dalmatian acapella groups (klapa) brighten
the atmosphere in the konobas (traditional fishermen’s
reataurants) and wander the streets adding to the general
warmth and gaiety.
Summer 2012
19

20 WHERE TO STAY
Upmarket
Bastion B-2, Bedemi zadarskih pobuna 13, tel.
(+385-23) 49 49 50, fax (+385-23) 49 49 51, info@
hotel-bastion.hr, www.hotel-bastion.hr. If you’re seeking
accommodation in the historical centre of the city, look
no further. Built on 13th century castle ruins, this hotel is
equipped with a conference room, restaurant and wellness
centre. Each room has a mini-bar for nibbles and the internet
at your feet. The Garden Club is situated right beneath the
hotel itself. Q28 rooms (23 singles €179, 23 doubles €219,
3 suites €337, 1 President apartment €420, 1 Junior Suite
€298). PJHAFLGBKDXW hhhh
Falkensteiner Club Funimation Borik F-4, Majstora
Radovana 7, Borik, tel. (+385-23) 55 56 00, fax (+385-
23) 55 56 80, reservations.borik@falkensteiner.
com, www.falkensteiner.com. A well-packaged hotel
with modern lines and airy interiors, aimed squarely at
families with children. The highlight is the 1000m2 aqua
park, plus the galaxy of sports, activites and excursions.
Family rooms can accommodate up to three children. Prices
are per person per day, all-inclusive and for Luxury suite
available upon request. Q258 rooms (4 singles €104 -
187, 52 doubles €76 - 126, 83 Mini Family €79 - 137, 58
Family Royal €88 - 146, 61 Family Suites €103 - 150).
PTHAUFEGBKDCwW hhhh
Falkensteiner Hotel Adriana F-4, Majstora
Radovana 7, tel. (+385-23) 55 56 00, fax (+385-23)
55 56 80, reservations.borik@falkensteiner.com, www.
falkensteiner.com. A “lifestyle hotel”, once you’ve seen it,
you’ll want to buy into it. The ultimate in comfort and tasteful
design, with a surrounding park and pool area which are a
sight for sore eyes, day or night. Prices are per person full
board. Q48 rooms (37 Junior Suites €70 - 120, 11 Standard
Rooms €60 - 110). PHAFEGBKDXCwW
hhhh
www.inyourpocket.com
Five wells square, (Trg pet bunara) by Tim Ertl
Kolovare N-6, Bože Peričića 14, tel. (+385-23) 20 32 00,
fax (+385-23) 21 30 79, hotel.kolovare@hoteli-zadar.hr,
www.hotel-kolovare.com. The closest hotel to the Old Town
recently got a facelift. Most rooms face an open air swimming
pool and the beach at Kolovare, a leafy neighbourhood of wellto-do
villas. Prices are per room per night, including breakfast.
Q203 rooms (27 singles 757 - 832kn, 128 doubles 1054 -
1334kn, 36 triples 1477 - 1869kn, 12 suites 1829 - 2159kn).
PJHAUGBKCW hhhh
Mid-range
Donat F-4, Majstora Radovana 7, Borik, tel. (+385-23)
55 56 00, fax (+385-23) 55 56 80, reservations.borik@
falkensteiner.com, www.hotel-donat.com. Part of the
Borik complex, Hotel Donat has full congress facilities, and
you’re spoilt for choice for leisure and entertainment options.
Prices are per person all-inclusive. Q240 rooms (36 singles
€51 - 77, 119 doubles €45 - 70, 31 triples €45 - 70, 54 Family
Rooms €51 - 75). PTHAEGBKXCW hhh
Hotel Marinko G-4, Vladana Desnice 18, Borik, tel.
(+385-23) 33 78 00/(+385-) 098 61 55 53, 091 429 99
09, fax (+385-23) 33 36 16, hotelkodmarinka@net.hr. A
rather colourful new villa-style building, close to all the Borik
amenities. All rooms are comfortable and air-conditioned,
and have good balconies, although the view of the local
Konzum may not be quite what you were hoping for. Prices
include breakfast. Q21 rooms (15 doubles €70, 6 triples
€80). PALBKW hhh
Mediteran G-2, Matije Gupca 19, Borik, tel. (+385-23)
33 75 00, fax (+385-23) 33 75 28, info@hotelmediteranzd.hr,
www.hotelmediteran-zd.hr. A modern building close
to the Borik complex and beaches. It’s a pleasant, clean,
family-owned place with a good restaurant. Most rooms
have a balcony and sea view. Rooms with mini bar and airconditioning
available. Prices are per room with breakfast.
Q30 rooms (30 singles 470 - 620kn, 30 doubles 570 -
720kn). PTALBKW hhh
Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com

Porto R-2, Nikole Jurišića 2, tel. (+385-23) 29 23
00, fax (+385-23) 29 23 33, hotel.porto@zd.t-com.hr,
www.hotel-porto.hr. Recently opened, this hotel about
15 minutes’ drive from the centre offers reasonable prices,
clean bright rooms, and decent food. It’s on the crossroads
heading towards the airport and the Split highway, so it’s ideal
for business travelers. Prices are per person per day. Q103
rooms (8 singles €58 - 61, 38 doubles €40 - 42, 51 triples €31
- 33, 6 apartments €32 - 35). PHARLGBKXW
hhh
Villa Hrešć I-4, Obala kneza Trpimira 28, tel. (+385-23)
33 75 70, fax (+385-23) 33 43 36, info@villa-hresc.hr,
www.villa-hresc.hr. On the coast road to Puntamika, a
beautiful Italian villa renovated to create a delightful hotel.
Modern, airy rooms; a superb restaurant and a pool where you
can relax amid greenery and drink in the view of the Old Town
nearby. Condos with kitchenettes sleep two to four. Prices are
per room with breakfast. Q9 rooms (3 doubles €100 - 120,
6 suites €130 - 220). PALGKCW hhh
Villa Nico F-3, Krešimirova obala 138, Diklo, tel.
(+385-23) 33 11 98, fax (+385-23) 33 19 60, nico.
moric@villanico.t-com.hr, www.hotel-villanico.com.
Right on the seafront in the beach neighbourhood of Diklo
a few kilometres west of the Old Town. All rooms have king
size beds, satellite TV and mini bar. Prices are for the room
plus breakfast. Oh, and it’s pink! Q Open May - September
30.29 rooms (17 singles €73 - 100, 17 doubles €98 - 130,
2 triples €118 - 150, 1 apartment €108 - 150, 9 Economy
Rooms €58 - 68). PAR6LGW hhh
Out of town
Adriatic Tina Ujevića 7, Biograd n/m, tel. (+385-23) 29
07 00, fax (+385-23) 38 30 08, sales@ilirijabiograd.com,
www.ilirijabiograd.com. Fully renovated, the Adriatic is a
pleasant lemon-yellow building with attractive design within
and novel attractions such as a luscious lavender bed bar.
Close to the heart of Biograd and the town’s excellent beach,
the range of sports and entertainment is baffling! Prices are
per person including breakfast. Q105 rooms (5 singles
€85 - 128, 95 doubles €45 - 75, 5 apartments €80 - 125).
PTJHAFLEBKDCW hhh
Apartments Margarita Maris Put primorja 131, Sv.
Filip i Jakov, tel. (+385-23) 29 24 00, fax (+385-23)
38 86 19, margarita-maris@zd.t-com.hr, www.vud.hr.
This lively little town south of Zadar has great beaches, and
the apartment compound consists of pleasantly clean and
simple air-conditioned bungalows. Sporting facilities abound.
Prices are per person and include breakfast, half board is
also available. Extra beds and cots can be added. Q90
rooms (90 apartments 214 - 432kn). Prices are per person.
PHA6LBKW hhh
Reserve a room at zadar.inyourpocket.com
zadar.inyourpocket.com
WHERE TO STAY
Summer 2012
21

22 WHERE TO STAY
Coming soon...
Art Hotel Kalelarga Soon to be opened, the hotel’s
interior design is based on the Kalelarga (the famous
street that runs through the centre of Zadar’s old town).
Thematic motives of the city’s history fill its 10 available
rooms, there is a restaurant and bar so you can go A la
Carte or simply devour your coffee at ease.
Bolero Ivana Meštrovića 1, Biograd n/m, tel. (+385-
23) 38 68 88, fax (+385-23) 38 68 80, recepcija@
hotel-bolero.hr, www.hotel-bolero.hr. In a purpose-built,
recently renovated building, Hotel Bolero offers cool and
airy accommodation, a super terrace, a restaurant and
saunas. Double rooms can accommodate three people, and
apartments a maximum of six. Prices are per room, breakfast
included. Q76 rooms (3 singles €60 - 90, 70 doubles €80 -
110, 3 quads €110 - 160). PTALBKXW hhh
Ilirija Tina Ujevića 7, Biograd na moru, tel. (+385-23) 39
65 55, fax (+385-23) 38 30 08, sales@ilirijabiograd.com,
www.ilirijabiograd.com. Set in a park area with a marina
and excellent Blue Flag beach in front. The first two floors have
been renovated and offer excellent, stylish accommodation.
The remaining floors are a little cheaper. Ample sports
facilities close to the centre of Biograd. Prices per person
including breakfast. Pets welcome on request. Q168 rooms
(161 singles €85 - 137, 161 doubles €48 - 81, 7 apartments
€80 - 125). PTJHARFLEBKDCW
hhhh
Kornati Tina Ujevića 7, Biograd n/m, tel. (+385-23)
35 83 33, fax (+385-23) 38 30 08, sales@ilirijabiograd.
com, www.ilirijabiograd.com. The Kornati is simple, clean,
comfortable and has a great location in a green spot near
the old part of Biograd and overlooking its own marina. It
shares the facilities of its sister hotels, the Ilirija and the
Adriatic - all a sports freak could ever dream of. Prices
per person with breakfast. Q106 rooms (102 singles
€77 - 137, 102 doubles €45 - 81, 4 apartments €75 - 115).
PTJHARFLEBKDCW hhhh
Mare Nostrum Sv. Petar 375b, Sv. Filip Jakov, tel.
(+385-23) 39 14 20, fax (+385-23) 39 14 21, info@
marenostrum-hr.com, www.marenostrum-hr.com. A new
hotel in lavender-filled gardens right on the beach at Sveti
Petar, a small town between Zadar and Biograd. Delightful,
modern airy rooms, all with air conditioning, satellite TV
and great balconies with sea views. Friendly staff. Prices
include breakfast. Q14 rooms (14 doubles €60 - 100).
PALBKW hhh
Pinija Petrčane bb, tel. (+385-23) 20 25 00, fax (+385-
23) 36 41 31, info@hotel-pinija.hr, www.hotel-pinija.hr.
A renovated hotel complex on its a pine-covered peninsula
10km from Zadar. Beaches with showers, indoor pool and
sauna, gym, beauty centre, conference facilities, cafes
and restaurants (including the popular Konoba Mareta),
sports and excursions. Prices per person half board. 30%
supplement for stays under 3 nights. Q340 rooms (24
singles €46 - 86, 216 doubles €38 - 76, 63 triples €38 - 76,
10 apartments €89 - 307, 27 Family Rooms €38 - 76).
PTJHAUFBKDCW hhhh
Villa Nela Punta Radman, Put 7, Petrčane, tel. (+385-
23) 36 46 60, fax (+385-23) 36 46 70, info@velcektours.com,
www.velcek-tours.com. A new villa with clean
and airy apartments, and a sea-water pool in the delightful
pine-shaded garden by the sea, where you can swing yourself
to sleep in a hammock. Apartments can accommodate up
to five; all have kitchenettes and balconies overlooking the
sea. Q12 rooms (3 Studio €60 - 95, 3 1-Bedroom €70 - 110,
3 2-Bedroom €80 - 140, 3 Large 2 Bedrooms €100 - 160).
PJA6LGBCW hhh
Zaton Holiday Resort Dražnikova ulica 76, Nin -
Zaton, tel. (+385-23) 28 02 11/(+385-23) 28 02 80,
fax (+385-23) 26 42 26, apartments@zaton.hr, www.
zaton.hr. Perfect for family holidays, an attractively planted
apartment village and excellent campsite placed to take
advantage of the sandy, shallow Bay of Zaton. Zaton has a
huge array of activities, including water sports, horse riding,
swimming pools, bars, restaurants, shops and a popular
nightclub. Q590 rooms (590 apartments €31 - 257).
PTA6UFLEBKCSW hhhh
Islands
Agava Božava bb, Dugi Otok, tel. (+385-23) 29 12
91, fax (+385-23) 37 76 82, sales@hoteli-bozava.
hr, www.hoteli-bozava.hr. Set amongst pine trees in
an idyllic island village, with a new swimming pool, sauna,
jaccuzi, massage, fitness centre, tennis and diving in
Božava’s famous clear waters. Recently refurbished, with
accommodation in apartments with kitchenettes. Prices
are per person with breakfast, based on two people sharing.
Q19 rooms (17 doubles €38 - 73, 2 apartments €38 - 73).
PTHA6FGKDCwW hhh
Lavanda Božava bb, Dugi Otok, tel. (+385-23) 29 12
91, fax (+385-23) 37 76 82, sales@hoteli-bozava.hr,
www.hoteli-bozava.hr. Hotel Lavanda has recently been
fully refurbished. All rooms have balconies with a sea view.
Božava is perfect if you’re looking for peace and quiet in
pristine surroundings, and especially for diving enthusiasts.
You can use the facilities of the Agava - see above. Prices are
per person with breakfast. Q87 rooms (87 doubles €38 - 73).
PTA6FGBKDCwW hhh
Hostels
Drunken Monkey Hostel P-6, Jure Kastriotića
Skenderbega 21, tel. (+385-23) 31 44 06/(+385-)
099 415 73 50, drunkenmonkeyhostel@gmail.com,
www.drunkenmonkeyhostel.com. Hostel is ideal for
backpackers. It is situated at the Arbanasi district close
to the Bus Station and Kolovare Beach, and the old town
is only a 20-25 minute walk away. The hostel has got
all the necessary facilities including kitchen, individual
rooms and a small bar, as well as laundry service. Q 30
dorm beds, 120 - 140kn per person. PNGBCW
Zadar Youth Hostel G-5, Obala kneza Trpimira
76, tel. (+385-23) 33 11 45, fax (+385-23) 33 11
90, zadar@hfhs.hr, www.hfhs.hr. Great news - one of
the large pavilions in Zadar’s youth hostel complex has
been fully renovated. Before now, the hostel was best
avoided. If you’re lucky enough to book into the new place,
you’ll pay a little extra. Sports facilities and restaurant,
friendly and helpful staff. Prices are per person for bed
and breakfast. Rooms for between 2 and 8 people. Q
298 dorm beds, 21 - 35€ per person. HUGBKW
Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com

Croatian
These restaurants usually combine a choice of Dalmatian
specialities and seafood with cuisine from inland Croatia,
which also forms part of the Dalmatian diet.
Atrij D-2, Ulica Jurja Barakovića 6. The owner of this
restaurant and brunch bar also runs the well-thought-of
Kornat restaurant. Atrij has a similarly stylish interior, which
includes a monthly exhibition of paintings which you can buy.
Open from breakfast til dinner, the food is Mediterranean
and prepared from fresh, high quality ingredients. QOpen
06:00 - 24:00. (10 - 118kn). PB
Bruschetta C-4, Mihovila Pavlinovića 12, tel. (+385-
23) 31 29 15. The name says it all! The emphasis here is
‘homemade’ and with quality products from the local Zadar
region on hand, the range of food is varied from several types
of bruschetta, to fish and meat carpaccio, as well as different
types of pizza and pasta. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. (60 - 110kn).
PJABW
Dva ribara C-3, Blaža Jurjeva 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 34 45,
info@restorani-zadar.hr, www.restorani-zadar.hr. A great,
shaded terrace by the side of the cheery yellow courthouse,
with a good selection of Dalmatian and Croatian classics as
well as pizzas. Reasonable prices - a good place for lunch to
break up a day’s sightseeing. It’s a hard life!! QOpen 11:00
- 23:00. (45 - 90kn). PAB
Grill Canzona C-3, Sv. Nediljice 2, tel. (+385-23) 21 20
81. Are you up for an excellent meal on the grill? Then head to
the Varoš district in Zadar where it’s hard to find a free seat
come peak summer. Choose from rare to well done as Leo the
owner has a copyright to all his genuine grill delicacies. Meal
sizes and prices are proportional. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun
12:00 - 23:00. (40 - 140kn). PB
Kaštel B-2, Bedemi zadarskih pobuna 13 (Bastion
hotel), tel. (+385-23) 49 49 50. Located in the 13th
century Venetian Kaštel (Hotel Bastion) in the old Zadar
centre, the menu oozes Dalmatian cuisine and creative
modern culinary trends. Try the fresh fish, homemade
bread and pasta filled with various creams. If you want local
gastronomy, look no further! QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (60 -
190kn). PALBW
Kornat B-2, Liburnska obala 6, tel. (+385-23) 25 45
01. Delightfully modern and refined with a classy offering of
inland and Dalmatian specialities and a great wine list, this
place really is in a class of its own in the Old Town. Inventive,
top quality cuisine - we were delighted with the black risotto.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. (75 - 160kn). PJAB
Malo misto C-3, Jurja Dalmatinca - Matejeva 3, tel.
(+385-23) 30 18 31, http://malo-misto.com. The “little
place” is a pleasant bar and garden roštilj (grill), lively and
popular. Locals come to enjoy the food, atmosphere and listen
to Croatian music. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (40 - 150kn). PB
zadar.inyourpocket.com
RESTAURANTS
Marinero F-3, Krešimirova obala 86, tel. (+385-23)
33 36 95. Pizzas and pasta with that Mediterranean feel,
there’s a wide food selection and we recommend the seafood
cuisine - fresh and well prepared. It’s a place to wind down
at the end of a day of sightseeing. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(60 - 110kn). PLNB
Marinko G-4, Poljski put 1, Borik, tel. (+385-23) 33 78
00, hotelkodmarinka@net.hr. Inside the new apart-hotel,
an a’ la carte restaurant serving Croatian and Dalmatian
dishes, all local produce. QOpen 14:00 - 23:00. (50 - 300kn).
PAB
Marko Polo B-1, Ivana Mažuranića 24, tel. (+385-23)
23 57 86, restoran-marko-polo@zd.htnet.hr. An alarming
orange coloured building near the city marina with a pleasant,
green terrace full of statues. If your sensibilities are strong
enough to withstand that onslaught, the cooking is solid in
a family style, offering Dalmatian and inland specialities and
a charcoal grill. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.
(80 - 150kn). PAB
Mediteran G-2, Matije Gupca 19, (Hotel Mediteran)
Borik, tel. (+385-23) 33 11 88, info@hotelmediteranzd.hr,
www.hotelmediteran-zd.hr. A good restaurant in
the comfortable three star hotel. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(60 - 110kn). PABW
Mijo G-3, Tina Ujevića 28, Borik, tel. (+385-23) 33 27
28. Comfortable space with an extensive menu comprising,
apart from Dalmatian and Croatian food, pizza, pasta, and
a couple of specialities not common elsewhere: pašticada
(beef cooked in dessert wine with dried fruit, a Dalmatian
recipe) and mučkalica (a Bosnian pork stew with wine and
vegetables). QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (40 - 100kn). PAB
Pet Bunara D-3, Trg Pet bunara bb, tel. (+385-23)
22 40 10, info@petbunara.hr, www.petbunara.hr. The
restaurant has an unusual offering of risotto-like dishes
made with barley instead of rice, a nutritious alternative,
and home-made pasta. They also have beef, pork tuna and
turkey steaks, lamb cutlets and classic fish dishes. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00. (60 - 180kn). PAB
Providenca D-3, Varoška 8. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat 07:00 - 01:00. (20-45kn). PB This little eatery offers
light bites such as cold food, soups, salads, bruschetta,
tapas and pizzas.
Stipe C-3, Plemića Borelli 5a, tel. (+385-23) 21 32 75.
A fairly standard grill restaurant and pizzeria. QOpen 08:00
- 24:00. (40 - 80kn). PNB
Zadar C-4, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV, tel. (+385-
23) 21 21 82. In the Hotel Zagreb building on the Riva, a
simple restaurant with the nicest terrace in town. Dalmatian
music and a pleasant atmosphere. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
(50 - 100kn). PNB
Summer 2012
23

24 RESTAURANTS
Cake & Ice Cream
Ice cream is a necessary condition for the continuation
of the human race in summer. While you can buy the
usual packaged ices (Ledo, with its teddy bear logo, is
the Croatian brand we’ve known since childhood), don’t
be shy to try the homemade stuff in a slastičarnica.
The water and milk here is fine, so there should be
nothing to upset your tum.
Slastičarnice are temples to all things sweet. You can
also eat cake and drink coffee, soft drinks or a fitting
choice of alcohol. Nik-o-Teen beware: often, you can’t
smoke. (These are children-friendly establishments,
after all).
Probably the most popular cake in Croatia is kremšnita
- a thick layer of vanilla cream sandwiched between two
layers of light pastry. It’s not too heavy, so perfect if you
fancy a sweet little something in hot weather.
Danica C-3, Široka ulica 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 10
16. A sparklingly modern cafe and slastičarnica, very
popular because of the good selection of cakes from the
local factory in Arbanasi. Opposite the National Theatre.
QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PNGB
Donat B-3, Trg Sv.Stošije 4, tel. (+385-23) 25 08 29,
info@donatice.hr, www.donatice.hr. Many Zadar folks
reckon this to be the best ice cream in town. The cookie
dough flavour is a carnival of sinful pleasure. QOpen
07:00 - 24:00. PNGB
Iva C-3, Narodni trg 2, tel. (+385-23) 21 11 21. Good
cake and ice cream up for grabs right on Narodni trg.
QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Sun 08:00 - 01:00. PNGB
Kompas C-3, Široka ulica, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 92.
A nice ice cream parlor with about 25 flavors, also offers
pizza, coffee and other drinks. Has indoor seating, but
who wants to sit inside when you can sit outdoors right
on Kalelarga. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. B
Luce C-3, Knezova Šubića Bribirskih 18, tel. (+385-
23) 25 05 14. A clean and modern place with a super
terrace on the square outside St Chrysogonus’ Church.
You can pick up a sandwich, too. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.
Closed Sun. PNB
Miami Kralja Petra Krešimira IV 1, Biograd n/m. Just
at the beginning of Biograd’s Riva - the town’s waterside
promenade. It’s a great place to linger over one of their
home made cakes or their special Kup Miami sundae
and watch the passers by. Or call in for an ice cream
to accompany your after dinner evening stroll. QOpen
07:00 - 24:00. PNGB
Zadar - Jadera C-2, Brne Krnarutića 4, tel. (+385-23)
25 18 59, info@restorani-zadar.hr, www.restorani-zadar.
hr. A large, busy restaurant by St Chrysogonus’ Church with a
wide choice of local and international meat and fish dishes.
Perfectly respectable food at decent prices. QOpen 10:00
- 23:00. (65 - 90kn). PJAB
Zlatni vrtić C-3, Ul. plemića Borelli 12, tel. (+385-23)
21 40 76. The “little golden garden” as its name translates, is
a family restaurant with charcoal grill and a pleasant courtyard
terrace. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (50 - 100kn). NB
Chinese
Shanghai House H-3, Put Dikla 70, tel. (+385-23) 33
23 10/(+385-) 095 539 81 58, shanghai.restoran@
gmail.com. The décor, while predictable, creates a hospitable
atmosphere that is complemented by the authentic cuisine
from the land of emperors. We recommend the signature
duck dishes which have earned their flavoursome reputation
and for all the right reasons. Take out is available if you would
like to dabble chopsticks whilst gazing at the sunset. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00. (35 - 115kn). PAGB
Breakfast
Croccante C-3, Široka ulica 14, www.croccante.hr.
When the tummy’s rumbling and you are after a top-notch
breakfast to get your day going, hop on down to Croccante
which is known for its fresh croissants and scrumptious
toast. Such places for brekky are few and far between
apart from the hotels that serve their guests. QOpen
07:00 - 24:00. (10 - 80kn).
Forum C-3, Madijevaca 2, tel. (+385-23) 25 44
40. Difficult to find but do not let that deter you. This
small bakery type eatery is a snack haven and good for
on the go. We recommend the tasty quiche, foccacia
bread and yummy bread rolls. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
(3 - 40kn). NB
Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com

Foodie Sukošan
Griblja Trg Ruševac, Sukošan, tel. (+385-23) 39 37
00, info@konoba-griblja.com, www.konoba-griblja.
com. Named after a traditional local farming tool, this
two storey old building (a former ruin) has been beautifully
restored and the menu oozes tradition. The food is terrific,
nicely arranged, fresh ingredients and each plate comes
choc a block full, although a tad pricey (pastas from 70
kuna). Great wine selection and extra rooms can cater
for private parties. QOpen 14:00 - 23:00. (55 - 380kn).
PAGB
Kaleta Ul. pape Ivana Pavla II, Sukošan, tel. (+385-
23) 39 40 31/(+385-) 091 882 34 37. “Kaleta”
means “alley” in Dalmatian dialect, and this 300 year
old former prison has a warren of stone passages that
lead you to the seating areas. They have a 38 year old
Elektrolux fridge which still works, and reckon it’s the
2nd oldest in existence! Great food - try their Pašticada -
Dalmatian beef in a rich sauce served with home made
gnocci - order a day in advance. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.
(70 - 200kn). PAGB
Kod Guste Rudina 9, Sukošan, tel. (+385-23)
39 33 03, augustin.devic@zd.htnet.hr, www.kodguste.hr.
A very popular place: authentic, with a friendly
atmosphere and reasonable prices (reservations are
therefore recommended). Try the crni rižoto (risotto with
squid ink). QOpen 16:00 - 23:00. (65 - 200kn). PNG
Italian
Trattoria Canzona C-3, Stomorice 10, tel. (+385-23)
21 20 81. A traditional pizzeria with a very respectable
reputation. The same outfit as the Zagreb restaurant of the
same name. Those who know that one will be reassured
it’s a good bet. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.
(40 - 120kn). PJNGB
Konoba
Konobas are the best places to experience typical Dalmatian
cuisine. They were once the places where fishermen hung out
and got someone else to cook their catch for them.
Na po ure D-3, Špire Brusine 8, tel. (+385-23) 31 20
04. Tiny and mellow, inventively designed using natural
stone (check out the downstairs section). However, the food
is definitely traditional konoba style. Shark is their speciality,
and they do grilled fish and meats, plus cooked meals at
reasonable prices, including pašticada beef stew. Wine
sold from the barrel. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (40 - 65kn).
PA6B
zadar.inyourpocket.com
RESTAURANTS
Rafaelo H-3, Ulica kneza Trpimira 50, tel. (+385-23)
33 53 49. On Put Dikla, the road to Borik. It’s got a rather
special menu with loads of top quality steaks prepared au
naturel on a charcoal grill, or stuffed with things like scampi.
Lamb, veal and fish cooked ispod peke are on offer as well.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (50 - 110kn). PLNB
Stomorica C-3, Stomorica 12, tel. (+385-23) 31 59
46. Named after the ruins of a little church, this is one of
the oldest konobas in Zadar which used to offer hearty and
healthy sardines to hungry patrons. Today it’s a beautiful
place to eat out:still traditional in style, the menu has been
expanded to include most classic seafood dishes. The New
York Times rightly gives Stomorica a big thumbs up for its
good portions, decent prices and singing locals. A Zadar
favourite for generations. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (50 - 70kn).
PNGBX
Trata B-3, Jerolima Vidulića 5, tel. (+385-23) 25 03 19,
konobatrata@gmail.com. This konoba is set a sheltered
garden with the foundations of a 2nd century Roman temple
as its centrepiece. The menu is centred on ancient Dalmatian
recipes, mainly fish. “Trata” was the word for a big net used
for communal fishing in old times. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(60 - 150kn). NB
Tu mi je lipo D-3, Rivnica bb, tel. (+385-23) 31 22 26/
(+385-) 091 121 29 56, www.tu-mi-je-lipo.hr. One of
our readers wrote in and told us that “if you’re looking for a
restaurant of true culinary art and culture, then you can’t go
wrong with Tu mi je lipo”, so we decided it was high time we
tested it out. The menu sticks obstinately to a basic repertoire
of grilled meats, grilled fish, grilled squid and grilled scampi,
but what emerges from the kitchen is so well executed
that it only makes you wish that all restaurants kept it this
simple. The place is located in a lovely walled enclosure,
so the name (which literally means “I love it here!”) makes
perfect sense. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00.
(55 - 400kn). PAB
Žvelti brabor J-1, Ispod dvorina 6, Bokanjac, tel. (+385-)
098 40 33 22. A well-kept secret - an old stone house with
only five or six tables. All the food and wine is excellent (as
are the prices), but those in the know say it’s a good place
in Zadar for octopus cooked ispod peke style. Bokanjac is
just outside Zadar in the direction of Pag (see a good road
map). When you reach the old village of Stari Bokanjac, you’ll
see signs for the konoba. You have to order what you want to
eat a day in advance, because everything is specially bought
and prepared - call in, or phone. Very special. QOpen 18:00 -
24:00. (65 - 100kn). PLNB
www.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2012
25

26 RESTAURANTS
Lamb
The spit roast rules in Croatia. Macho men who would
otherwise not be seen dead in a pinny are happy to spend
hours lovingly tending rotating piglets. While pork forms the
substance of the inland diet, once you get the coast it’s much
easier to find lamb, which Dalmatians rave about, because
the combination of salt winds, sunshine and strong herbs
lends the meat a special flavour. Lamb from nearby Pag Island
is especially flavourful. Here are the best places to eat lamb
roast on the spit (janjetina na ražnju) in and around Zadar.
Sabunjar Jadranska 99, tel. (+385-23) 34 03 55,
tomislav.kurta@zd.t-com.hr. Tipped by locals as one of the
best places in town for lamb. Take the main road to Split and
you’ll see it across the road from hypermarkets Merkur and
Getro. QOpen 09:30 - 23:00. (27 - 80kn). PALGBX
Tamaris O-2, Zagrebačka 5, tel. (+385-23) 31 87 00,
info@tamaris-zadar.com.hr, www.tamaris-zadar.com.hr.
A large, modern restaurant in a small three star hotel. Charcoal
grilled specialities, including, yes, that holy of holies, roast
lamb on the spit, and other Dalmatian food. A wide selection
of Croatian wines. Deservedly popular. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.
(75 - 150kn). ALB
Pizza
Pizza is so ubiquitous it surely must count as a national food
in Dalmatia by now. But that’s no bad thing. Pizza is quick,
inexpensive - and yummy.
Falcon H-4, Obala kneza Trpimira 51, tel. (+385-23)
33 22 06, ivica.knezevic2@zd.t-com.hr. Average pizza.
QOpen 15:00 - 24:00. (35 - 110kn). PALB
Mamma mia H-3, Put Dikla 54, tel. (+385-23) 33 42
46. Located in a pleasant tree-shaded garden on Put Dikla,
the road that leads from central Zadar to the Borik resort
area, this popular pizzeria is perfectly placed for a quick and
economical post-beach feed. Mamma Mia’s pizza toppings
are a bit more generous than the thin smears of tomato you
get in some other Italian-influenced establishments around
town. We ordered a Quattro Stagioni and three out of its four
seasons turned out to be pretty tasty. And by the time we got
onto the last quarter of the pie we were full anyway. The grilled
meat dishes are also worth trying. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(28 - 200kn). NB
Šime G-2, Matije Gupca 15, Borik, tel. (+385-23 ) 33
48 48. A large, friendly and trendy place, beloved by locals
for superb pizza, pasta and salads. Šime is also famed for
great pancakes and ice cream. A terrace, plenty of parking
and an underground garage to keep your lil’ baby out of the
sun. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (30 - 100kn). PLNB
Tri bunara B-3, Trg tri bunara, tel. (+385-23) 25 03 90.
Has the honour of being the first pizzeria in Zadar, having
been here in Three Wells Square since the 1920s. QOpen
10:00 - 23:00. (35 - 70kn). PNB
Seafood
Less homey than konobas but good places to try the local
catch in a more upscale ambience.
Foša D-3, Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira 2, tel. (+385-23) 31
44 21, jadera@jadera.org, www.fosa.hr. One of the best
places in the Old Town, not least for its romantic location with
a wonderful terrace on the little Foša harbour, this restaurant
is well respected among locals for great fish. QOpen 12:00 -
23:30. (70 - 450kn). PJAB
Lungo Mare J-4, Obala kneza Trpimira 23, tel. ( +385-
23) 33 15 33. Has a fantastic reputation for seafood and
home made cheesecake. A great terrace. On the coast road
west of the centre, near the Sphinx. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(75 - 330kn). PALB
Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com

Niko G-5, Obala kneza
Domagoja 9, tel. (+385-23)
33 78 88, hotel.niko@hotelniko.hr,
www.hotel-niko.hr. An
institution - not only one of the
best hotels but also one of the
best restaurants in town. It’s a great place to eat seafood.
We recommend it for a special treat - but it’s not shockingly
expensive. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (70 - 170kn). PAL
Roko I-3, Put Dikla 74, tel. (+385-23) 33 10 00. A family
restaurant in the Borik area, particularly recommended for
its fish, which is freshly caught by the owner himself. Huge
portions - try the delicious octopus salad or anything seafood.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00. (60 - 350kn).
PALB
Taverna Diklo F-3, Krešimirova obala 49, tel. (+385-
23) 33 10 35. This restaurant, pleasantly located by the
water’s edge in Diklo, was once considered one of Zadar’s
best. Traditional cuisine is solidly executed, and seafood is still
their strong point. However, the overall experience, including
the service, tells us that true passion is lacking these days.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (50 - 350kn). PALB
Villa Hrešć I-4, Obala kneza Trpimira 28, tel. (+385-
23) 33 75 70, info@villa-hresc.hr, www.villa-hresc.hr.
A wonderful restaurant in a wonderful hotel in a wonderful
Italian villa, with wonderful food and great surroundings... We
need say little more except “try the tuna carpaccio”. Right
by the Sphinx on the coast road between Puntamika and the
centre. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (70 - 150kn). PALB
Thai
Pearl of Siam G,J-3, Put Dikla 9, tel. (+385-23) 33 77
13/(+385-) 098 183 51 84, www.pearlofsiam.com.
hr. If spicy or the more exotic flavours are your cup of tea,
then boy, does this place deliver? The cuisine has Thai food
written all over it with a solid array of course dishes. The
ambience is very casual, and the place - bright, neat and
tidy with a little terrace by the pool. QOpen 17:00 - 23:00.
(30 - 100kn). PAB
Out of town
Casa Vecchia Ulica kralja Kolomana 30, Biograd, tel.
(+385-23) 38 32 20. The scents wafting out as you pass
by will reel you in for sure. Tucked in the heart of Biograd’s old
town in a quiet corner by St Anastasia’s Church, the garden
is the main attraction, green and cool with creeping vines,
with a clay pizza oven and bright with sunshine. Q Open
15:00 - 23:00. July, August Open 12:00 - 24:00. (30 - 50kn).
PNGBX
Konoba Grmalj Premuda 122, Premuda Island, tel.
(+385-23) 37 66 65. A little terrace near the Krijal bay on
the western part of the island. A gorgeous location to try
lamb, kid goat or škarpina (fish) ispod peke. People claim
that kid goat is a better meat than lamb as it’s not so greasy
and has a more delicate flavour. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00.
(50 - 200kn). NB
Konoba Pece Prilaz Drage 2,Vinjerac, tel. (+385-
23) 27 50 69, anita.greguric@zd.htnet.hr. We heartily
recommend Pece as one of the best konobas in the region,
with a lovely view from a little hilltop. The homely interior was
hand crafted by the owner himself, who also is your chef.
He whips up aromatic dishes full of local flavour and with a
personal touch: his seafood dishes are true delicacies. To
get to the delightful little coastal hamlet of Vinjerac, take the
Zagreb road and turn left just before the Maslenica bridge.
Book in advance. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00. (150 - 300kn).
A6LB
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Fast food
RESTAURANTS
Gricko L-4, Franje Tuđmana 54, tel. (+385-23) 30
50 87. There is an indigenous fast food which renders
the hamburger utterly irrelevant in Croatia. Ćevapi are
little sticks of minced meat and spices, grilled or fried,
and for the true carnivore are something like heaven.
They’re usually served in a bun called a lepinja, which
the vendor thoughtfully dips into hot fat before serving.
Mmmmm! In Voštarnica, a clean and pleasant little place
to munch decent ćevapi. Q 09:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 23:00,
Sun 18:00 - 23:00. (20 - 32kn). PNB
Hajduk C-3, Knezova Š.Bribirskih 9, tel. (+385-23)
25 05 81. Unarguably the best burek (meat or cheese
filo pastry pie) in town. We highly recommend you try it
Croatian style with a refreshing pot of plain yogurt, but if
that doesn’t grab you, they serve burgers, sandwiches,
toasties and mini pizzas too. Hajduk, by the way, means
“brigand” or “bandit”, and is also the name of the Split
football team, but don’t mention that here if you like
having legs. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (10 - 35kn). PNB
Obelix G-2, A.G.Matoša 6, Borik. Good warm
sandwiches (popular round here, try them!) and the usual
fast food stuff. With late opening hours, it’s a good place
to pick up a bite if you’re drinking in Borik or on your way
home after a night out in town. Located next to Obelix,
Terra cafe is inimitable for its summer parties and fried
sardines which the owner gives to passer bys for free.
QThe program is on Wednesdays from 9 pm until 1
am. (8 - 32kn)
Tony Kožino II 76, Kožino, tel. (+385-23) 28 32 99/
(+385-) 098 35 79 12. Dalmatian specialities and
international food including chateaubriand and steaks cooked
on a wood grill. Order in advance and lamb or sucking pig on
the spit is yours. A huge menu and friendly multilingual staff.
On the forested road out of Kožino (head for Vir). QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. (35 - 300kn). PALB
Vapor Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV, Biograd n/m,
tel. (+385-23) 38 54 82/(+385-) 091 544 90 39, frane.
jelic@zd.t-com.hr, www.vapor.hr. The kind and helpful staff
will help you navigate the menu, which features mainly seafood
with a few meat dishes for good measure. A lovely spot on
Biograd’s Riva, with a view over the islands. Inside, look out
for motifs of life here in times gone by. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
(60 - 150kn). AB
Žut ACI Marina Žut, Žut Island, Kornati National Park,
tel. (+385-) 091 473 51 55, www.aci-club.hr. At the
Marina, a great place to wind down at the end of a day
sailing Kornati. Owner Romano Milutin owns a konoba of
the same name nearby. Great seafood and unbelivable
lobster. Thorougly recommended! QOpen 08:00 - 23:00.
(80 - 110kn). AB
Summer 2012
27

28 CAFÉS
As in all of Croatia, cafe culture rules in Zadar. Weary
sightseers take the weight off their feet, and for locals it’s
vital to have a chance to catch up with the day’s gossip over
a macchiato. That means the coffee is usually good. The
usual espresso and cappuccino are available everywhere.
A latte here is called a “bila kava” (white coffee), and you
can increasingly find instant coffee too. Boo to globalisation!
72 D-4, Ul. posedarskih knezova 2. This is one of those
places where local characters congregate, and here they’re
cared for by the very guy who set up the bar in ‘72, hence
the name. It’s a friendly, unpretentious place with the
cheapest beer in town at 14kn a bottle. QOpen 07:00 -
01:30. PBX
Bizarre C-2, Dalmatinskog sabora 1. Not bizzarre at all. A
super terrace for sitting out, especially on Friday nights (fešta
night), when owner Željko lays on the fried fish and Dalmatian
acapella trios. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00.
Branimir D-1, Obala kneza Branimira 10, tel. (+385-
23) 30 56 84. A super spot to sit and enjoy the buzz of
conversation and a prime viewing position of the handsome
footbridge and the Old Town peninsula opposite. You can
pick up international papers in the nearby kiosk. QOpen
07:00 - 24:00. PGB
Callegro B-3, Široka ulica 18, info@callegro.com. The
locals say that this café has the best coffee in the city. We
shall add that there are a few other cafes nearby that provide
strong competition to such remarks, but what Callegro has
over its rivals is the most beautiful view at the old Roman
Forum. From its position, you can also kick back and watch
other people strolling through the famous street Kalelarga!
QOpen 07:00 - 01:30, Sun 08:00 - 01:30. PNGB
Canova bar D-3, Ruđera Boškovića 4. New and
refreshing this café tucked away in the new shopping center
on R. Boškovića Street, Canova offers some really colorful
specialty drinks, Illy coffee and a chilled out atmosphere.
Indoor and outdoor seating, a nice place to relax and have a
conversation. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PBX
Central C-3, Široka ulica 3. Do realise that this café is
built on the ruins of Saint Catherine’s Church. That may
explain that heavenly aroma that ascends from the pizzetas,
different sandwiches and treats that are served. QOpen
07:00 - 24:00. PJNGB
Forum B-3, Široka ulica bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 05 37. A
fine location on the Kalelarga. The shaded terrace is blessed
by the twin attractions of St Donatus’, the most famous
symbol of Zadar, and the Forum. Cake. Mmmmmmmmm.
QOpen 07:30 - 01:00. PNB
www.inyourpocket.com
Guam F-3, Krešimirova obala 46. Has one of the most
luxurious terraces for sitting by the sea, drinking great coffee
and watching the sun go down. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00.
PNBX
Kavana Ledo J-4, Obala kneza Trpimira 21. Named after
what has been for years one of the most popular Croatian
ice-cream makers, with its teddy bear logo. This was once
a stylish and modern affair which has now faded somewhat.
Still, it’s a good place to sit on the waterfront and enjoy coffee
and cake, or even a game of pool. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00.
PNB
Lovre C-3, Narodni trg 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 26 78. The
best location on Narodni trg, next to the City Sentinel, the
interior is actually a former church. Not that you’ll want to sit
inside when the view outside of the attractive and colourful
square is so fine. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. PNGB
Marex J-4, Ul. kneza Trpimira bb. An unmissable stop on
the cafe scene in summertime, with great ice cream made
by the Marex company. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00.
More C-2, Brne Krnarutića 3, tel. (+385-23) 64 41 30. A
cheerful drinking place populated by locals for years. The sea
captain that winks at you from the window is a particularly jolly
character QOpen 06:00 - 02:00. PGBX
Moto cafe M-1, Hrvatskog sabora 8, Bili Brig, tel.
(+385-23) 32 64 19. Bili Brig: a residential area in the
northern part of town. A biker’s paradise. A biker crowd hangs
out, and bikes hang within to make the point absolutely clear.
QOpen 06:00 - 23:00. PBX
Novi Caffe D-3, Ilije Smiljanića 4, tel. (+385-23) 31
15 14. On Five Wells Square, right by one of the “Pillars of
Shame”. Intellectuals are now rumoured to meet here and flog
themselves with metaphorical cats-o-nine-tails. Mea culpa!!
QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. GBX
Porat C-1, Obala kneza Branimira 13. If location means
everything then this café has it. Have a morning coffee or
simply chill in the sunset as you see the boats and yachts
enter the port. There is also a view of the old city walls and
the tower of Saint Anastasia’s Church. Its interior is modern
and stylish. QOpen 06:00 - 24:00. PGBXW
Porthos O-6, Karma 7a, Kolovare, tel. (+385-23) 31 52
75. Funky interior with bright colors and plenty of sunlight
during the day. Phenomenal view as this café is right on the
beach at Kolovare. This place has all the regular beverages a
café offers in Croatia, and is a great place to watch the sunset.
Nice coffee mugs too. QOpen 07:00 - 01:30. PNBX
Riva B-3, Ul. zadarskog mira 1358 br.22, tel. (+385-23)
25 14 62. A pleasant terrace on the Riva promenade, near
the Forum. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PNGBX
VIP caffe C-1, Obala kneza Branimira bb, tel. (+385-23)
30 19 69. Next to the rowing club and right on Jazine Bay
VIP offers internet access, coffee, dozens of cocktails, ice
cream, cigars, sandwiches and croissants and a beautiful
view of Stari Grad. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 -
03:00. BXW
Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com

zadar.inyourpocket.com
The Garden Club, Tim Ertl
On warm evenings, everybody is outside. Sitting on benches
and promenading the street (the Italian Corzo) are habits that
still linger. Zadar’s nightlife is neither sceney nor divided into
old and young, so in most places you’ll find an unpretentious
mix of people.
While the Old Town is an atmospheric place to spend your
evenings, you can also spend time in places like Borik, Diklo
and Kolovare, to catch the sea breeze and watch the sun go
down. Zadar’s sunsets are supposed to be the best in the
world. Apparently, Alfred Hitchcock agreed.
Those of you wanting a little more will nevertheless not be
disappointed. Young Croatians are a pretty cosmopolitan lot,
and you would be surprised how urban the culture is. There
are a handful of clubs which offer some decent nights, and
a wide choice of bars to suit your tastes.
Clubs
Zadar doesn’t have a huge variety of clubs, so the owners
tend to try to cater for everyone, offering different kinds of
music on different nights. At the time of going to press, in
true Mediterranean fashion, very few people had a clue what
would be happening when this summer, so keep an eye out
for flyers and posters. Here’s a general idea of what to expect.
Apart from that, the good news is the crowd is always very
mixed, and the appalling Europop you find in so many resorts
is pretty much absent.
City Club Forum M-5, Marka Marulića bb, tel. (+385-)
091 324 07 89, forum.city.club@gmail.com. A smallish
coliseum-shaped space with three bars an atmosphere of
full-on hedonism to recall the fall of Rome. The music policy
is flexible, but you can expect to find commercial house and
r’n’b. QOpen , Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00.
The Garden B-2, Bedemi zadarskih pobuna bb, tel.
(+385-23) 25 06 31, info@thegardenzadar.com, www.
watchthegardengrow.eu. Opened by two members of Brit
reggae outfit UB40 this spectacular garden atop the city walls
used to be the coolest hangout in the former Yugoslavia. Now,
coolly minimalist with ultra-comfortable loungers, it’s a perfect
place for enjoying drinks, sunshine, views, a game of chess
and hot summer nights to the tune of nu jazz, dub, latin, breaks
and downtempo electronica. QOpen 10:30 - 01:30. JBW
Cocktail bars
Barbara bar F-4, Majstora Radovana 7, Borik, tel.
(+385-23) 20 61 00. Done out in classic lounge bar style,
all wicker and white cushions, the Barbara Bar is a classy and
comfortable spot to wind down after a hard day’s sunbathing
or yachting on Borik. It’s inside the Funimation hotel in the
Falkenstiener Borik hotel complex. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00.
PAGBX
NIGHTLIFE
Mango F-3, Krešimirova obala 12, Diklo. This brightlycoloured
bar is on the waterfront at Diklo, a little west of
Zadar’s centre and opposite the Borik complex. It’s a lively
place to mingle with a pleasantly mixed crowd and enjoy a
few expertly mixed cocktails, especially at sundown. QOpen
08:00 - 04:00. B
Hangin’ out
One thing you must try in Zadar is a drink made out of local
Maraschino cherries - a particularly aromatic variety, a little
bitter, therefore not used for eating, but great when sugared
up to the max.
As we all know, it’s the quiet ones you have to watch, and,
like all the most potent brews, Maraschino liqueur (crystal
clear and syrupy) was first made by 16th Century monks, who
called it sun dew. Apparently the fruits and young leaves of
the Maraschino cherry tree were so full of the goodness of
sunshine and the bountiful earth that the drinker would be
imbued with positive effects.
The city’s Maraška factory is the yellow building on the
mainland opposite the footbridge, and has been producing
alcoholic and non-alcoholic variations of the cherry, as well
as other drinks, for years. It’s something which the locals
are rightly proud of.
Arkada D-3, Ruđera Boškovića 6, tel. (+385-23) 21
13 68. A covered terrace with a wooden deck and comfy
couches, very popular with the teeny crowd. QOpen 07:00
- 01:00. B
Arsenal B-1, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38
21/(+385-) 099 210 33 09, info@arsenalzadar.com,
www.arsenalzadar.com. Originally used as a naval service
center in the 18th century, the arsenal now stockpiles history,
culture, art, and entertainment. The gargantuan structure
offers food, drink, music, interactive art, and reflects Zadar’s
3000 year history, life today, and a peek into the future. You
can visit one of the many exhibitions - the Gallery hosts
multiple shows throughout the year. Or if you just feel like food
or a drink, relax in one of the most laid back atmospheres in
Zadar. Want an added bonus? Arsenal and the Zadar Tourist
Board put their heads together so you can find all the tourist
information you need. From accommodation to tours, Internet
access and exchange facilities you will find them all at Arsenal.
Q Open Mon, Sun 18:00 - 02:00, Wed, Thu, Fri 18:00 - 03:00.
PTJAEBKW
Borgo C-3, Varoška 2. A small bar where locals tend to
congregate and get merry. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. Closed
Sun. PBX
Brazil D-4, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV bb, tel. (+385-
) 091 208 55 61. Just by the Riva, a nice leafy terrace
and an inside bar which is actually within the city bastions.
Comfortable, relaxed, and the only place with satellite radio,
meaning it registers above average on the music taste-ometer
QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. PNB
Cafe Gallery Gina C-3, Varoška 2. Wildly popular after
dark, good music, a tiny art gallery and an older crowd all
crammed into a little space in an atmospheric stone street.
QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. B
Dolce Vita C-4, Matice Dalmatinske 6, antoniomontana@
net.hr. Indeed popular with those who appreciate la dolce
vita, i.e. the trendy crowd. Q Open 09:00 - 14:00, 18:00 -
01:30. PJNBX
Gagica G-4, A.G. Matoša 8, tel. (+385-23) 33 22 20,
agrongagica@hotmail.com. Gagica’s history goes back to
the 60’s, and it has been one of Zadar’s favourite bars ever
since. Good for breakfast, and snacks are served as long as
it’s open. The ice cream is home made by the owner himself.
Good cocktails, fast service, friendly and fun. QOpen 07:00
- 03:00. NGBX
Summer 2012
29

30 NIGHTLIFE
Hitch bar Kolovare beach, tel. (+385-) 095 111 88 88,
www.hitch-bar.com. Wanna dance till you drop, spruce
on in to this popular night club with somewhat of a modern
and minimalistic interior. Keep an eye on this summer’s
entertainment guide with theme nights, international DJs,
and concerts by Croatian and international artists. QOpen
08:00 - 06:00. PABW
Kult C-3, Stomorica 6a. Has a gorgeous terrace in a little
park with a stone balustrade. A popular hangout with locals.
QOpen 07:30 - 01:00. PJBX
Ledana Lounge bar D/E-3, Perivoj kraljice Jelene
Madijevke, info@ledana.hr, www.ledana.hr. Seeking
an escape from the hustle and bustle, then head to the
Queen Jelena Park and visit Ledana, that is ‘icy’ in our lingo.
It is totally new and out of this world, it has a lumious icy
blue mosaic like interior which is ideal for escaping the hot
sun. Choose to chill on one of three terraces where you can
indulge in some live music and concerts. QOpen 08:00 -
02:00. PAB
LLoyd B-3, Trg Sv. Stošije 3, tel. (+385-23) 25 08 51.
One of the coolest chill-out spots for a slightly older crowd.
After sundown, comfy cushions are strewn on the steps by
St Anastasia’s cathedral. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PNB
Lotus C-4, Stomorica 7. A relaxed, alternative vibe,
unless you consider young people straining desperately
to be different a negation of the term “relaxed”. The music
confidently straddles rock and punk genres. QOpen 07:00
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:30. PBX
Maraschino E-2, Obala kneza Branimira 6a, tel. (+385-
23) 22 40 93, maraschinobar@gmail.com. Venture out in
the morning or afternoon and it’s a café/restaurant, head on
down late evening and it transforms into a night club. With live
bands and various DJs performing, you have every excuse to
sip cocktails and party. QOpen 07:00 - 06:00. PAGB
Q Bar B-2, Liburnska obala 6. A good old thirst needs a
good old beverage, so why not visit one of the city’s pubs
located at the very end of the Zadar peninsula. No two nights
are the same with different gigs and genres filling the weekly
timetable. Spacious with a relaxed vibe and a snazzy view
of the port and marina! QOpen 07:00 - 04:00. PGBX
Toni C-3, Mihe Klaića 6, tel. (+385-23) 31 68 47. On
Mihe Klaića, a tiny street which, come sundown, is one of
the most popular hangouts. Thus, the outside benches at
Toni are always busy, and are a great location for rubbing
shoulders and checking out the talent. A great view of the
attractive little church, St Michael’s, opposite. QOpen 07:00
- 01:30. PNBX
Yachting Bar G-5, Majstora Radovana 7, Borik, tel.
(+385-) 091 452 34 52. A super, modern bar by the Borik
marina, with a great selection of drinks and a terrace with live
music. Recommended for easy early evening drinking. Sail
into the cordiallly named Yachting Bar in case you are feeling
peckish. It offers croissants, hot and cold sandwiches, toasts.
and all the other snacks one would desire for immediate
hunger satisfaction. QOpen 07:00 - 05:00. PNBW
Zodiak D-4, Šimuna Ljubavca 2. A tiny bar with a few seats
in an equally tiny street, and a not-so-tiny crowd that gathers
for the music that veers eclectically between grunge and
drum’n’bass. QOpen 08:00 - 01:30, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00.
PNBX
Out of town
Aquarius Zrće beach, Novalja, Pag island, tel. (+385-
53) 66 20 38/(+385-) 091 199 78 99, info@aquarius.
hr, www.aquarius.hr/zrce. If you’re looking for a true beach
party in the Ibiza sense, head for the island of Pag. Just
outside the town of Novalja is a beach called Zrće, a haven
of white pebbles and crystal sea. Aquarius, probably the best
club in Zagreb, has a superb space here, with places to eat
and drink, home-made ice cream, an aerobics club (daytime),
and dancing by night. The club is superbly equipped - cool
off in the bar area in a paddling pool. Quality. QOpen 00:00
- 24:00. BKC
Beach Bar Kalypso Zrće beach, Novalja, Pag island.
A beach bar with sports (volleyball, darts, badminton), games
and entertainment for young and old, fast food, cocktails and
internet access. The late bar is pumping ‘til who knows - and
who cares - when! Open ‘til late QOpen 08:00 - 06:00. BC
Lavender Bed Bar Hotel Adriatic, Tina Ujevića
7, Biograd n/m, sales@ilirijabiograd.com, www.
ilirijabiograd.com. Set in a beautiful garden overlooking
the sea at the Hotel Adriatic. Bougainvillea blooms around
you, and a relaxing ambience is created by textile canopies
and chillout music. As the name suggests, you can sip your
cocktail as you lounge, godlike, on a comfortable cushioned
bed. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. AB
Papaya Zrće beach, Novalja, Pag island, tel. (+385-)
091 462 92 98, info@papaya.com.hr, www.papaya.
com.hr. Another popular outfit from Zagreb bring you great
summer entertainment on Pag. Bar and restaurant areas
are decked out in exotic style, there are swimming pools, a
water slide and a jaccuzzi. Balearic-style house music and
foam parties, and after 8 the parties see good resident DJs
and international guests playing varied music styles. Q Open
10:00 - 20:00, 23:00 - 06:00. BC
Saturnus Zaton Holiday Resort, Nin, tel. (+385-23) 28
02 80, info@zaton.hr, www.zaton.hr. A huge and popular
nightclub (the biggest on the Croatian coast), close to the
apartment complex, with DJ parties and fashion shows at
weekends. QOpen Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 23:00 - 04:00. PLN
Vanga Stara Riva bb, Pag Town, Pag Island, marija.
valentic@zd.htnet.hr, www.ljubica.hr. A disco club named
after an old local ferry, it’s open non-stop for fun, including
karaoke and foam parties. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. B
Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com
Jinx

Alright, so having your city razed to the ground every few
hundred years might have its drawbacks - but look on the
bright side! The legacy of constant rebuilding has given
Zadar a uniquely rich architecture, and there can be few
places on Earth with such diverse influences crammed into
one small area.
Essential Zadar
City Forum (Forum) B-3. The Roman Forum - the largest
on this side of the Adriatic - was founded by the first
Emperor Augustus, as documented on two 3rd Century
stone inscriptions on the site. A raised area on the west
side was the site of a temple dedicated to Jupiter, Juno
and Minerva. To one side a “Pillar of Shame“ still stands,
where naughty people were chained and pilloried. (A second
one was taken away and now stands near the Three Wells
Square). The Forum also comprised a basilica and rooms
for council chambers and citizens’ assemblies. Underneath
was a colonnade where shops and workshops once stood.
The site was only discovered in the 1930s. Allied bombers
inadvertently assisted in the clearing process, and site was
completely cleared and restored between 1964 and ‘67.
One of the most beautiful things about these remains is the
way that they are still a part of the fabric of the city. No signs
forbid you to touch or sit on the stones. Take time one evening
to sit and imagine the bustle of the traders, the grandeur of
the pagan temples and the horrors of the blood sacrifices
that took place on the very altars you can see on this spot.
City Gates (Gradska vrata) D-2. The city walls have had
several entrances knocked through them at more confident
points in Zadar’s history. Some of them were walled up for
good, but four remain as the vital link between the town within
the walls and the sea outside them.
The Venetians built the Land Gate - then the main entrance
into the city - on the little Foša harbour in 1543. It’s
considered one of the finest monuments of the Venetian
rule in Dalmatia, and has the form of a triumphal arch with
zadar.inyourpocket.com
WHAT TO SEE
St Anastasia’s Cathedral, Tim Ertl
a central passage for wheeled traffic, and two smaller side
arches for pedestrians. It’s decorated with motifs such as
St Chrysogonus (Zadar’s main patron saint) on his horse,
and the Shield of St Mark (the coat of arms of the Republic
of Venice). Previously, the area had been highly defensive,
with a surrounding moat.
Between the ferryport and market is the Harbour Gate (also
known as St Chrysogonus’ Gate, because of its proximity
to the church of the same name), built in 1573 to celebrate
the victory of the Christian fleet over the Turks at Lepanto.
Near the bridge on the north side is the neo-Renaissance
Bridge Gate, knocked through by the Italians only 70 years
ago, and leading directly to Narodni trg and the Kalelarga.
Further west, by the old Arsenal, is the fourth and smallest
gate, named after St Rocco, connecting the Three Wells
Square with the harbour area.
City Lodge (Gradska loža) D-3, Narodni trg. Built by the
same architet as the City Sentinel, this building once was the
city’s courthouse, council chambers and library. With its huge
windows and high ceilings, it nowadays serves as a stunning
exhibition space, hosting events such as the international
photography triennial “Man and the Sea” and the triennial of
contemporary Croatian art “The Blue Salon”. QOpen 09:00 -
22:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Holidays Closed. Admission 15kn.
City Sentinel (Gradska straža) C-3, Narodni trg.
Designed by a Venetian architect in the late Renaissance
style, with a large central clock tower and a surrounding
stone barrier and railing with holes for cannons (both later
additions). The building once housed the Ethnographic
Section of the National Museum, one of the most important
collections in the country, and worth seeing for the rich
colours of local national costumes, textiles (weaving and
lace), jewellery, agricultural, fishing and household objects.
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Holidays Closed.
Admission 15kn.
www.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2012
31

32 WHAT TO SEE
City Walls (Gradski bedemi) C/D- 2. Once the largest
city-fortress in the entire Republic of Venice, Zadar’s walls
allowed it to retain more of its independence than most of
its neighbouring cities, and meant that it was never captured
by the Turks. Previously, there were even more fortifications
than there are now, but what are left are put to good use,
with delightful parks and promenades on top of them (see
below). Take a look inside doors such as the one on Five Wells
Square - you can see huge empty spaces inside once used
as military storage facilities.On top of the bastion above the
Harbour Gate is a promenade called the Muraj - a peaceful
vantage point over the mainland opposite and the people
crossing the bridge. One of the large yellow buildings up there
is one of Zadar’s old newspaper presses.
St Anastasia’s Cathedral (Katedrala sv. Stošije) B-3,
Trg svete Stošije. An attractive Romanesque cathedral - the
biggest in Dalmatia - built during the 12th and 13th centuries.
As with many Dalmatian churches, the belfry is separate. You
can climb to the top - the view is amazing. Two attractive
rosettes decorate the front portal, and a gallery of blind
arches the flanks, with a ledge above them providing seating
for pigeons to look down on the throngs on the Kalelarga.
Simple stone blocks are lightened with decorative friezes, and
the lovely stonemasonry around the doors is worth a careful
look. Highlights of the interior include the stone ciborium
covering the high altar, frescoes, an intricately carved choir
and an Early Christian mosaic in the sacristry.
St Donatus’ Church (Crkva sv. Donata) B-3, Poljana
pape Ivana Pavla II. Imposing and austere, yet absolutely
harmonius and original in form, it’s not surprising that the
pre-Romanesque St Donatus’ is taken as the very symbol
of Zadar and an image of the unique spirit of Dalmatia.
The circular shape is typical of the early Byzantine age in
Dalmatia. It was founded in the 9th century, when it was
called the Church of the Holy Trinity, and given its present
name six hundred years later in memory of a famous bishop.
Religious services are no longer held here, but the stark
interior has excellent acoustics and is used as the concert
venue for the annual International Festival of Medieval
Renaissance Music, also known as “The Musical Evenings in
St Donatus’”. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed November - April
Admission 15 - 20kn.
St Donatus’ Church, Tim Ertl
City tours
Love gods take note. The most romantic way to visit the
Old Town for the first time is to catch the little red rowing
boat waiting, rain or shine, on a jetty by the Tankerkomerc
building on the mainland side of the footbridge. There
has been a man in a rowing boat here for 800 years.
He’s getting a bit past it now, but these Dalmatians
are a hardy lot.
Seriously, this is a famous local sight, called the
“barkarjol”, and apart from its charm, the 100 metre trip
across the Jazine bay saves you a twenty minute walk,
and costs only 5kn.
The Riva A/B/C-4, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV.
“Riva” is a generic word meaning “waterfront”, usually a
place to enjoy a stroll and a coffee in seaside towns. When
people in Zadar talk about the Riva, they mean the pleasant
promenade on the edge of the Old Town peninsula called
Obala Petra Krešimira IV, named after a Croatian King. Until
the 19th century, the space you see here was occupied by
an outer ring of fortifications, needed to keep invaders at
bay. When the Austrians took over the administration of
Zadar in 1813, a period of peace began. As well as founding
the beautiful parks on top of parts of Zadar’s system of
fortifications, they completely removed the outer ring. The
Riva is beautifully planted with lawns, flowers and palms, is
the site of the stunning University building, and is a great
place to stroll either in the evenings or even to have a dip
by day.
Churches
When you look into it, you could be forgiven for thinking that all
the people of Zadar have done through the centuries is build
churches. Looking at this gives you a good idea of exactly
how long the city has been standing, and how rich that life
has been. Here are the main highlights. Note: churches are
normally only open for Mass - each has its own timetable.
All churches expect you to cover up: short shorts and tiny
tops will not only raise eyebrows, but you may be handed a
cover-up or refused admittance.
Church of Our Lady of Health (Crkva Gospe od
“Kaštela” (Zdravja)) A-3, Braće Bilišić 1. In the green
park by Three Wells Square (see Essential Zadar) is the
little orange Church of Our Lady of Health, one of the city’s
best-loved churches. It lies in the quiet old neighbourhood of
Kampo Kaštelo. Built in 1703 on the site of two much older
churches, it contains a copy of a famous painting “Our Lady
of Kaštelo”, the original of which is now in the Permanent
Exhibition of Religious Art (see The Silver and Gold of the
City of Zadar ).
Church of St Mary “de Pusterla” Stomorica (Crkva
sv. Marije “de Pusterla” Stomorica) C-4, Mihovila
Pavlinovića 12. The foundations of this tiny Early Christian
church (11th Century) were found in 1880 near Hotel Zagreb
on the northern edge of the peninsula, and uncovered in
the ‘60s. The floor plan of the church is fascinating: the
five semicircular apses (typical of early Dalmatian church
architecture) and the semicircular portal surrounding the
central space give it an unusual six-leaved clover shape.
St Andrew’s and St Peter the Elder’s (Crkva
sv. Petra Starog i Sv. Andrije) C-2, Hrvoja Vukčića
Hrvatinića 10. On the corner of Ulica Dalmatinskog Sabora
and Ulica Hrvoja Vukčića Hrvatinića (near the market), the
simple frontage of St Andrew’s has an unremarkable 17th
century facade, but other parts date back to the 5th and 6th
centuries. Through the apse you enter the very unusual church
of St Peter the Elder, also from the early Middle Ages. Both
contain fragments of ancient frescoes, and the atmospheric
interiors are now used as exhibition spaces.
Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com

St Francis’s Church & Franciscan Monastery, Tim Ertl
St Chrysogonus’ Church (Crkva sv. Krševana)
C-2, Poljana Pape Aleksandra III 2. A beautifully preserved
little Romanesque church, consecrated in 1175, originally
belonging to a Benedictine monastery that once stood
nearby. The front is quite simple, while on the sides are
delightful barley-sugar twist columns, and to the rear three
semicircular apses, the central one decorated with a gallery.
The interior is also pleasingly simple, with many remains of
frescoes. The high altar was built in 1701 by citizens who were
spared from plague. In 1717 white marble statues of Zadar’s
four patron saints were erected on the altar.
Culture
Research Library and Historical Archive. Zadar’s Research
Library is the second largest Croatian institution of this
kind after the National University Library in Zagreb. It
was founded in 1855 by local professor and benefactor
Petar Aleksandar Paravija, and was originally in the Loggia
on Narodni trg, moving into the present building, an
attractive yellow building which used to be a barracks.
It’s the bedrock upon which not only Zadar’s rich cultural
and educational life rests, but also that of Croatia. Zadar
was for a long time the administrative centre of Dalmatia,
under many colonial powers. The documentation kept
here, and in the Historical Archive (near St Dimitri’s
church) is the seed of knowledge of much of Croatia’s
legal and political past.
St Dimitri’s Church (Crkva sv. Dimitrija) D-4,
Mihovila Pavlinovića. St Dimitri’s is an unusual example of
Neo-Classical architecture in Dalmatia. It was completed in
1906 by Viennese architect Karl Susan, and has an unusual
central cupola. It was part of an educational complex, and
two of the buildings now house the Historical Archives, the
University’s Faculty of Humanities and the Croatian Academy
of Arts and Sciences.
St Dominic’s Church (Crkva sv. Dominika) D-3,
Špire Brusine 13. This former church building has had
an interesting past. Consecrated in 1280, it belonged to
a Dominican monastery who founded the first university in
Croatia there (1396). When Napoleon took Zadar in 1805,
he abolished the Dominican order, turned the church into
a barracks, and shut down the university. The church has
recently been renovated, and part of the monastery complex
is now home to Zadar’s popular and internationally acclaimed
Puppet Theatre.
St Elias’s Church (Crkva sv. Ilije) B-3. The city’s
Orthodox church was originally used by Greek merchants and
sailors, later serving the city’s Serbian community. It stands
just behind the Forum, and since this area is undergoing
zadar.inyourpocket.com
WHAT TO SEE
extensive renovation, you can’t access the church at the
moment. It was built in the late Baroque style at the end of
the 18th century, and contains a wonderful collection of icons
spanning the 16th to 18th centuries.
St Francis’s Church & Franciscan Monastery
(Franjevački samostan i Crkva sv. Franje Asiškog)
A/B-3, Trg sv.Frane 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 04 68.
Consecrated in 1280, Saint Francis’s is the oldest Gothic
church in Dalmatia, also displaying fine Renaissance and
Baroque work, and containing some very important artworks.
The church was the venue for the signing of the Zadar peace
treaty of 1358, when the Venetians ended centuries of
attacks on the city and handed it to the protection of the
Croatian-Hungarian King Ludwig I of Anjou. Particularly worth
seeing is the wonderful choir in a local style known as Floral
Gothic. The attached Franciscan monastery has a beautiful
Renaissance cloister. Zadar’s young people like to come here
for Midnight Mass at Christmas. In the early part of 2011,
during restoration works, a 400sqm floor space entirely
covered in headstones from between the 14th and the 19th
centuries was discovered. Mass Sunday 08:30, 10:00, 20:00.
Mass in foreign languages can be arranged by appointment.
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
St Laurence’s Church (Crkva sv. Lovre) C-3, Široka
ulica 2. The remains of this pre-Romanesque church (11th
century) are the oldest part of Narodni trg, and are reached
through the premises of Cafe Lovro on the square. It’s small
and simple, but architecturally rich.
St Mary’s Church (Crkva sv. Marije) C-3, Trg opatice
Čike 1. Founded in 1066 by a Zadar noblewoman, and
belonging to a closed order of Benedictine nuns, the church
was fundamentally rebuilt during the 16th century in the
Renaissance spirit, but retains its Dalmatian aspect with its
rounded gables. It has a fine Baroque interior with remnants of
early Romanesque frescoes. The adjoining convent buildings
contain the remarkable Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art
(see The Silver and Gold of the City of Zadar ), and a beautiful
cloistered garden only visible from the museum’s interior. As
well as being the guardians of the city’s treasures, the nuns
are extremely skilled at fine mending and do it for free. Bless!
St Michael’s Church (Crkva sv. Mihovila) D-3,
Špire Brusine 4. On the corner of Ulica Špire Brusine and
Ulica Mihe Klaica is the simple and charming Gothic frontage
of St Michael’s, once part of a Franciscan monastery. A relief
on the portal shows St Michael flanked by St Anastasia and
St Chrysogonus. The present church was built in 1389 and
added to in the 19th century. Of interest inside are a 13th
century painted Romanesque crucifix and a statue of Saint
Michael on the high altar.
St Nediljice’s Church (Crkva sv. Nediljica) C-3.
An early Croatian church, a reconstruction of its remains is
displayed in the Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art (see
The Silver and Gold of the City of Zadar).
St Mary’s Church, Tim Ertl
Summer 2012
33

34 WHAT TO SEE
St Nicholas’s Church (Crkva sv. Nikole) A/B - 3.
The remains, built in a combination of Gothic and late Baroque
styles and dating back as far as the 13th century, are close
to St Francis’. Remnants of a Romanesque belltower lie in
the courtyard. There are current attempts to save it from
the ravages of history - Napoleon’s armies converted it
into a barracks, damaging the interior, while war damaged
the exterior.
St Simeon’s Church (Crkva sv. Šimuna) D-3, Trg
Petra Zoranića 7, tel. (+385-23) 21 17 05. East of Narodni
trg is the church named after the most popular patron saint
of Zadar. First built in the 5th century, it has undergone
alterations until as recently as 1980, and some find the
terracotta and white exterior disappointing in comparison
with the other churches. But it has a pleasant Mediterranean
aspect, with palms planted outside, and the gilded reliquary
of the saint inside is one of Zadar’s highlights (see The Silver
Casket of St Simeon ).
St Thomas’s Church (Crkva sv.Tome) C-2/3. The
remains of this Early Christian church (late 5th century) on the
corner of St Chrysongonus’ Square and Ulica Šimuna Kožičića
Benje, were knocked down in 1822 to make way for a school,
rediscovered in 1969, and the frontage was restored, now
forming the facade of a shop. Some of the stone furniture of
the interior is now in the Archeological Museum.
Landmarks
City Market (Pijaca) C-2, Pod Bedemom bb. In most
Dalmatian towns the market is a sight for sore eyes, and
Zadar’s is one of the biggest and best. It’s been here since
the Middle Ages, but the large open space dates back to
WWII, when many buildings were flattened in this part of
town. Some around the edge of the square are only just
being reconstructed. The outside stalls are where you’ll
find mouthwatering displays of fruit, vegetables, fresh herbs
St Simeon’s Church, Tim Ertl
and more... all locally grown and bursting with flavour. Little
old ladies (bakice) also sell home made olive oil, rakija and
cheese - usually far better than the shop-bought equivalent.
The indoor meat market is to one side of the square, and the
fish market is opposite, coolly located inside the city walls.
Proud locals claim it’s the best fish market on the coast. To
one side is a section of the market for cheap clothes and brica-brac,
great if you need an emergency pair of flip-flops or a
cheap snorkel. Hours of fun browsing, bargaining and banter.
Five Wells Square (Trg 5 bunara) D-3, Trg 5 bunara.
During the 16th century, the Venetians helped the city
withstand Turkish sieges by building a large drinking water
cistern with five ornamental wellheads. When the Turkish
threat ended, a park was built on top of the nearby bastion,
and nowadays the attractive stone-flagged park serves as
the perfect gathering point for skateboarders.
Greeting to the Sun A-3. Witness this unique chance to
see the latest project in Zadar called ‘A salute to the sun’ by
the architect Nikola Bašić, who represented Croatia at the
11th Venice Biennial 2008. This project is in alliance with the
Sea Organ project. In making these two projects possible,
musician Ivan Stamać and as well as engineer and expert
on water hydraulics Vladimir Andročec have both made
significant contributions.
Statue of Petar Zoranić. On St Chrysogonus’ square is
a statue of a man with rather muscular legs. This is Petar
Zoranić, the writer of the first novel in Croatian. Born in Zadar,
he was the son of a family of nobles from Nin. The beauty of
the surrounding mountains and the sea was his inspiration
and his theme in Planine (“Mountains”), written in 1536, a
pastoral romance and a product of the Renaissance in Zadar
at that time - a time when the city was under siege by the
Turks, but art and culture prospered within.
www.inyourpocket.com
Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com

zadar.inyourpocket.com
Five Wells Square, Tim Ertl
Statue of Špiro Brusina D-4. The handsome fellow
staring at a shell in front of the University in Zadar is none
other than Špiro Brusina. Born in 1845, he was an expert in
natural sciences and founder of ornithology in Croatia. He
was also a zoologist, explorer, and cultural and public official.
Another curious fact is that he was a leading member in the
Croatian chapter of the freemasons. What secrets does
that shell contain?
The Captain’s Tower (Kapetanova kula) D-3, Trg
pet bunara. A pentagonal tower on the Five Wells Square,
built by the Venetians to strengthen the city against Turkish
attacks. It gets its name from the nearby residence of the
Venetian city captain, and is now used as an exhibition space.
The City Cemetery, Heritage Monument (Gradsko
groblje) R-3. Cemeteries, most vacationers aren’t exactly
thrilled at the thought of them. However it does have to
be mentioned some of the highest quality stonework is on
display at these sites. The city cemetery in Zadar is proof
of that, and to be honest, when you visit on a sunny day it’s
really not all that morbid.
The Sea Organ (Morske orgulje) A-4, Obala kralja
Petra Krešimira IV. Spring 2005 saw Zadar gain something
absolutely unique: the world’s first pipe organ that’s played by
the sea. It’s an art installation designed to let people enjoy
the point where urban space meets the sea on Zadar’s new
pier for cruisers on the end of the Old Town peninsula. Simple,
elegant stone steps have been built on the quayside, perfect
for sitting on. Underneath, 35 pipes end in whistles with
openings on the quayside above. The movement of the sea
pushes air through, and - depending on the size and velocity
of the wave - chords are played. As you sit and listen to the
ever-changing sounds created by the sea’s energy, you can
bask in the sun, watch one of Zadar’s famous sunsets or
enjoy the balmy night air. This is proving to be an extremely
popular spot for culture and leisure, bringing new life to a new
part of the city. The project’s architect was Mr Nikola Bašić,
and a team of experts from Zagreb and the island of Murter
engineered the organ itself.
Museums
Archeological Museum (Arheološki muzej) C-3,
Trg opatice Čike 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 05 42, arheoloskimuzej-zadar@zd.htnet.hr,
www.amzd.hr. On the Forum
square is the low, modern building of the Archeological
Museum, featuring artefacts from Zadar’s development from
Prehistoric times through to the first Croatian settlements.
For a chronological tour, it makes sense to go directly to
the prehistoric exhibition on the second floor, which covers
decorative ceramics, weaponry and items the seafaring
Liburnians brought from Greece and Italy. The first floor
covers the Classical period, from the Romanised Liburnians
(1st century BC) to the widescale Roman settlement (6th
century AD). Artefacts include weaponry, items from local
WHAT TO SEE
necropoli and sculpture, mosiacs and art created in farflung
parts of the Roman Empire. The collection of 1st-3rd
century glassware is wonderful. Also well worth seeing is a
reconstruction showing the Forum area in Roman times. In a
smaller room are exhibits from the development of Christianity
in North Dalmatia in the late Classical and early Byzantine
period, and rare artefacts from the invasion of the Goths.
The ground floor (early Middle Ages, 8th to 11th centuries)
contains exhibits from early Croatian graves near Nin, and
stone furniture from churches which did not survive the ages.
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 15 - 20 kn.
National Museum (Narodni muzej Zadar) C-2,
Poljana pape Aleksandra III bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 51.
The Zadar branch of the National Museum traces the urban
development of Zadar from the Baroque to the first half of the
19th century: architectural fragments, portraiture, furniture
and (particularly recommended) early photography. There are
also scale models of Zadar through the ages. The scientific
section of the National Museum is kept in the Deputy’s Palace
(see Palaces). The Zadar National Museum consists of the
Zadar City Museum, the Natural Science Department and the
Ethnological Department. Tickets are purchased seperately
for each department. Q June 1 - September 15 Open 09:00
- 14:00 and 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 -13:00. September
16 - May 31 Open 09:00 - 12:00 and 17:00 - 19:00. Sat, Sun
closed. Admission 15kn.
The Museum of Ancient Glass (Muzej antičkog
stakla) D-2, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-
23) 36 38 33/(+385-23) 36 38 30, www.mas-zadar.
hr. The museum is one of the city’s newest attractions.
It’s housed in the 19th century Cosmacendi Palace and has
some outstanding views that overlook the Jazine harbour. The
museum contains one of the premium collections of Roman
glassware outside Italy, with a cornucopia of goblets, jars and
vials retrieved from archaeological sites across Dalmatia.
Highlights include the delicate vessels used by Roman ladies
to store perfumes, skin creams and essential oils. Also look
out for glass cups used to celebrate Mass, and dainty flasks
in which holy water was stored. Take the opportunity to see
the replica Roman glassware on sale as this is one of the
classiest souvenir-stops in the city. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.
Open July - October Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 10 - 30kn.
Asseria
At Asseria, near Podgrađe, 6km east of Benkovac are the
remains of an urban settlement almost a kilometre long.
Asseria was founded long before the Romans set foot
on these lands. It was a powerful centre of the Liburnian
tribe, whose territories stretched for miles along the
eastern Adriatic coast. When the Romans later occupied
these lands, Asseria grew to become a municipality with
a governing council. The golden era of Asseria came to an
end when Avar (and sometimes Slav) tribes swept across
the plains of Europe, and the Roman Empire crumbled.
The last mention of the settlement is from the 11th
century. You can also see remains from the days when
this whole area boasted influence and might at Nadin
(Nedinum) and Karin (Corinium). Karin lies on the mouth
of the river Karišnica, where it widens into the lagoon
named the “Karin Sea”, with clear water for swimming
and curative mud in some places. Here stands a fine
example of medieval religious architecture, a 15th century
Franciscan monastery, built on the site of a Benedictine
monastery. There is a medieval fort at Perušić and a
beautiful 15th century fort at Kličevica.
www.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2012
35

36 WHAT TO SEE
Palaces
Deputy’s Palace (Providurova palača) D-3,
Medulićeva 2. Completed in 1607 as the residence of the
Venetian Deputy to Zadar, it now houses the Matica Hrvatska
(the Central Croatian Cultural and Publishing Society). The
building adjoining it at Medulićeva 2 houses the Scientific
Department of the National Musem (exhibiting flora and
fauna, including sea life, not only of the Zadar region but from
all over the world. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat
09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission 15kn).
Knight’s Palace (Kneževa palača) D-3, Poljana Šime
Budinića. Together with the Deputy’s Palace it forms the
Regency complex. The oldest Romanesque elements date
back to the 13th Century, the courtyard is the oldest example
of Classicism in Zadar. The palace is now under reconstruction
after damage in the 1990s war.
Nassis and Patrizio Palaces (Palače Nassis i
Petrizio) D/C -3. Near St Simeon’s Church in Ulica don Ive
Prodana are two beautiful examples of Gothic-Renaissance
palaces, demonstrating how architecture, and in particular
the creation of courtyard gardens, flowered during the 14th
and 15th centuries behind the city walls, despite incessant
bombardment by enemies.
Palace Grisogono (Palača Grisogono) D-3. Another
palace near St Simeon’s, on the corner of Ulica don Ive
Prodana and Ulica Ilije Smiljanića. The first floor originally
consisted of two connected Romanesque buildings. In the
16th Century the first floor was adapted in a combination
of Renaissance and Gothic styles. Again, the courtyard is
well worth a look.
Parks
Queen Jelena Madijevka Park (Perivoj kraljice
Jelene-Madijevka) D/E-3. Vladimir Nazor Park is not
the city’s oldest - that distinction goes the park named
after Queen Jelena Madijevka (Medici), built on top of the
Grimaldi bastion by Five Wells Square. Founded by Austrian
commander Baron Franz Ludwig von Welden in 1829, a
passionate botanist and admirer of Dalmatian flora, it was
the first public park in Dalmatia. To create a garden on top
of a military object was an unusual move, but one Zadar is
eternally grateful for.
Vladimir Nazor Park (Perivoj Vladimira Nazora)
E-3. Named since WWII after one of the most famous
Croatian writers, Zadar’s biggest park lies on top of the city’s
biggest fort, just east of the peninsula and the Land Gate.
It was created in 1888-90 by an Austrian deputy, Dragutin
Blažekovic, born to a noble family in Osijek (east Croatia).
Despite working for the Austrians, he was a supporter of
Croatian rights, and resigned when the Austrians refused
to concede them. He left something beautiful to the city - a
richly planted park with winding pathways, a pond, and an
elevation giving great views of the sea. He died three years
after it was completed, and the park was named after him
- against his wishes.
Religious collection
Silver and Gold of the City of Zadar (Zlato i srebro
Zadra) B-3, Trg opatice Čike 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 04 96/
(+385-23) 25 48 20. If you come to Zadar you must see the
Forum and St Donatus. If you only see one other thing, make
it the Silver and Gold of Zadar. It’s housed in the Benedictine
convent of St Mary’s, where it has been guarded by nuns since
the end of the Second World War. It forms the Permanent
Exhibition of Religious Art, one of the most important cultural
repositories in Croatia. The city has enjoyed various periods
of flowering of arts and culture, and the work of local gold and
silversmiths (including Italians and Venetians resident in the
city) is absolutely stunning, spanning the millennium between
the 8th and 18th Centuries. The collection includes reliquaries
for either entire saints or parts of them (e.g. hands, arms and
heads), crucifixes, paintings, and vestements interwoven
with gold and silver thread. The collection is presented in
intimate and atmospheric surroundings, and is guaranteed
to leave the most resolute non-believer awestruck. On the
ground floor there is also a reconstruction of the former
chapel of St Nediljica and examples of Romanesque masonry.
Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 20:00. Sun 10:00 - 13:00.
Admission 15 - 20kn.
Silver Casket of St Simeon (Srebrna raka sv.
Šime) D-3, Trg Petra Zoranića 7, tel. (+385-23) 21 17
05. In the church of the same name, a gilded silver casket
on the altar is raised on the outstretched arms of four bronze
angels. It contains the remains of the popular saint-protector
of the city. Commissioned in 1381 by Elizabeth, wife of
Croat-Hungarian King Ludwig I of Anjou, it’s one of the finest
examples of the work of Zadar’s silversmiths, and inside and
out shows in intricate detail scenes from the saint’s life and
the city’s history.
Locals say that a merchant who was shipping the body of St
Simeon from the Holy Land to Venice was caught in a storm,
and sought shelter here. He fell ill, and before he died had the
body buried, but told the nurses taking care of him that they
would find something interesting in his documents. They found
an inscription of the powers of the saint around his neck, and
asked three local priests to dig up the grave that night. Not yet
knowing the true nature of the occupant of the grave, visions
appeared to them, and St Simeon has been revered in Zadar
ever since. The silver casket of St. Simeon can be viewed
daily and his remains will be shown to the public on his patron
day, October the 8th. Mass: 08:00, Sun 08:30 and 10:00.
QOpen 08:30 - 12:00.. Open May - October 17:00 - 19:00.
The Sacred Art Collection of St Francis’ Monastery
(Riznica samostana sv. Frane) A/B-3, Trg sv. Frane
1, tel. (+385-23) 25 04 68. The monastery has a rich
collection of religious art, highlights of which include a 12th
century painted Romanesque crucifix and a 15th century
polyptych from the island of Ugljan which is a fine example of
Gothic painting in Croatia. There are also ancient incunabula,
documents, liturgical vessels and more. QOpen 09:00 -
18:00. Admission 5 - 15kn.
Greeting to the Sun
Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com

Making the call
You’ve memorised the misleadingly simple code breakdown,
and are ready to take the plunge (let’s hope you
decided not to drop that tricky calculus course):
Local Calls: Here’s the trick: dial the subscriber’s six-
or seven-digit number, and place the greasy receiver
to your ear.
National Calls: Dial the Croatian city code (023
if you’re calling Zadar for instance) followed by the
subscriber’s number.
Calling Abroad: Dial 00 (the international access
code), the appropriate country code, a city or area
code if applicable and the subscriber’s number.
Calling Croatia from Abroad: Dial your international
access code, 385 (Croatia’s country code), the city
code (dropping the initial 0) and the subscriber’s
number.
Calling a Mobile: Mobile numbers are 9 or 10-digits
and begin with either 091, 092, 095, 098 or 099. Dial
the subscriber’s number and wait for a human voice.
For an international call to a Croatian mobile, dial your
international acess code, 385 (country code), drop the
0, and then dial the remaining digits.
Mobile phones
Mobile phone use in Zadar is typical to most everywhere
in Europe: they appear to be permanent growths that
have attached themselves to ears or cheeks. Unique
however, are the numerous and exciting tonal renditions
of show-tunes and 80s glam-rock that shatter the most
tranquil of moments. It seems that churches and cinemas
remain the only structures holy enough to warrant the
tragic silent-mode designation in this central European
location. The networks that exist are VIP (091), T-Mobile
(098) and Tele 2 (095) and their SIM cards can be bought
all over the place. Buy pay-as-you-go cards in news kiosks,
or top up at a cash machine.
SIM Cards
Purchase a Croatian SIM card from one of the following.
They all have numerous selling points throughout the city
if the below addresses aren’t convenient for you.
T-Centar M-5, Polačišće 2, Relja, tel. (+385-) 0800
90 00. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun.
Tele 2 D-3, Andrije Medulića 2, tel. (+385-23) 21 38
09, www.tele2.hr. QOpen 08:30 - 15:00, Sat 08:30
- 13:00. Closed Sun.
VIP Centar E-2, Obala kneza Branimira 6b, tel.
(+385-) 091 77 00, www.vipnet.hr. QOpen 08:00 -
20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
zadar.inyourpocket.com
MAIL & PHONES
Express mail
City Ex N-4, Put murvice 26a, tel. (+385-23) 30 90 99,
zadar@cityex.hr, www.cityex.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00,
Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N
DHL E-1, Postrojbi specijalne policije 12, tel. (+385-23)
22 44 44/(+385-) 098 47 30 32, www.dhl.hr. QOpen
08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Internet places
Acme B-3, Nikole Matafara 2a, tel. (+385-23) 25 07
08, klub@zadarsnova.hr. A big internet centre combined
with a gallery space. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. 10kn / 30min,
15kn / 1h.
Marina Dalmacija Bibinje - Sukošan (Elizabete
Kotromanić11/1, Zadar), tel. (+385-23) 20 03 00,
www.marinadalmacija.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. W
Vip Internet caffe C-1, Obala kneza Branimira bb,
tel. (+385-23) 30 19 69. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
08:00 - 03:00.
Post
If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you can
buy stamps on pretty much any kiosk, just make sure they’re
right value for what you are sending and where. Once you
put it on, drop your mail in any post box. These are the small
yellow boxes attached to buildings around town.
Central Post office M-5, Kralja S. Držislava 1, tel.
(+385-23) 22 23 55, www.posta.hr. QOpen 07:00 -
20:00, Sat 07:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.
Post office B-3, Š.Kožičića Benje 1, tel. (+385-23) 22
37 17, www.posta.hr. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 -
13:00. Closed Sun. July - August 31 Open 07:30 - 21:00, Sat,
07:30 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Post office L-4, J.J.Strossmayera 8, tel. (+385-23) 22
37 24, www.posta.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00
- 13:00. Closed Sun.
Postal rates
Letters up to 50 gr C r o a t i a 3, 10 k n
A b r o a d 7, 10 k n
Postcrads C r o a t i a 1 , 6 0 k n
A b r o a d 3, 10 k n
City codes
Zagreb 01
Split 021
Šibenik 022
Zadar 023
Dubrovnik 020
Summer 2012
37

38 GETTING AROUND
Public transport
City bus services are run by Liburnija, and connect the
Old Town with the main coach and train stations and all
surrounding suburbs and beach areas. There is a ticket
office outside the train and coach stations, open 07:00
- 14:00, Saturdays 07:00 - 12:00. There you can buy a
ticket valid for two journeys for 16kn. Alternatively, buy
tickets inside the bus (10kn for one trip). Liburnija, Ante
Starčevića 1, tel. (+385-23) 060 30 53 05.
Taxi
There are a multitude of taxi companies waiting to
transport your person, for which privilege an equally
varied array of prices apply, ranging from 19kn to 40kn
for a 5km trip. Your safest bet is to ask the cost of the
journey before entering the taxi.
Trains
Central train station (Željeznički kolodvor) O-1,
Ante Starčevića 4, tel. (+385-23) 21 25 55. National
info line: 060 333 444 www.hznet.hr. The train station
is right next to the bus station. Zadar is not particularly well
connected with other Croatian cities by rail. There are two
direct trains to Zagreb a day. As for train services to Split -
don’t bother, it’s quicker by bus.
Ticket prices are similar to those of buses. The ticket office
is open 07:20 - 14:50. Closed Sat, Sun.
Outside those times tickets can be bought on board the
trains. The Croatian Railways website has English and German
pages and a search facility. For international services, it
connects you to the Deutsche Bahn website.
Buses
Zadar Coach Station O-2, Ante Starčevića 1, tel.
(+385-) 060 30 53 05, kontakt@liburnija-zadar.hr, www.
liburnija-zadar.hr. The bus station is on the crossroads
just east of the Old Town heading towards Split, Rijeka and
Zagreb, and it’s a real hub with everything you need, including
exchange offices, left luggage and ATMs. Coach travel is the
cheapest and quickest option for those looking to explore
the region on a shoestring. A huge number of Croatian
destinations are served, as well as a growing number of
foreign destinations in all points of the compass. The general
ticket office is open 05:30 - 22:00.
Car Rental
Avia D-2, Narodnog lista 2, tel. (+385-23) 21 25 79/
(+385-) 091 570 22 31, aviazadar@yahoo.com, www.
avia-rentacar.hr. Also at Zadar airport, tel. (+385-23) 34 84
02, (+385-) 091 898 91 12, Open 08:00 - 21:00. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00. A
Dollar & Thrifty N-6, Bože Peričića 14 (Hotel Kolovare),
tel. (+385-23) 31 57 33/(+385-) 098 42 48 91, zadar@
subrosa.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun. A
Hertz Zadar Airport, tel. (+385-23) 34 84 00/(+385-)
091 415 55 42, zadar.ap@hertz.hr, www.hertz.hr.
QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. A
Lulić Ulica 159. brigade 10, tel. (+385-23) 24 22 24/
(+385-) 098 31 37 47, info@lulic.hr, www.lulic.hr. Also
at Zadar Airport, tel. 34 84 32. Open 08:00 - 21:00. QOpen
08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A
Modul Auto R-1, Zagrebačka 90, tel. (+385-23) 34 36
30/(+385-) 091 222 26 92, modul-auto@zd.t-com.hr.
QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Oryx B-2, Vrata Sv. Krševana bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 43
01/(+385-) 099 634 93 27, www.oryx-rent.hr. Also at
Zadar airport, tel. 34 84 15, Open 08:00 - 21:00. QOpen
08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A
Rent A - H Zadar L-5, Bana Josipa Jelačića 1, tel. (+385-
23) 23 66 00/(+385-) 098 41 43 22, rent-ah@zd.t-com.
hr. Rent a scooter. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A
Terra G - 2, Matije Gupca 2a, tel. (+385-23) 33 72 94,
fax (+385-23) 33 72 95, info@terratravel.hr, www.
terratravel.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. A
Airport
Zadar airport (Zračna luka Zadar) Zemunik Donji,
tel. (+385-23) 20 58 00, info@zadar-airport.hr, www.
zadar-airport.hr. Zadar’s small but modern airport is in
Zemunik Donji, 9km southeast of the city. Croatia Airlines has
domestic services to Pula and Zagreb and major European
destinations. Charter flights also in summer.
Airline offices
Croatia Airlines Zadar Airport, Zemunik Donji, tel.
(+385-23) 25 01 01, zadap@croatiaairlines.hr. Also open
90 minutes before Croatia Airlines and Lufthansa departures.
QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Ferries
Jadrolinija’s local ferries (trajektne linije) and passenger
boats (brodske linije) run from Zadar to the surrounding
islands. The islands are simply gorgeous, so it’s well
worth making the pleasant trip, and absolutely affordable.
Not all services run daily, so do take care when studying
the timetable, or ask for help at the Jadrolinija office.
These routes are for car ferries unless otherwise stated.
Catamarans do not take cars on board.
Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com

Jadrolinija C-2, Liburnska obala 7, tel. (+385-23) 25 48
00, www.jadrolinija.hr. Q Open 07:00 - 20:00, Mon, Wen
and Fri Open 07:00 - 22:00. July, August Open 07:00 - 21:00,
Sat 05:00 - 24:00, Sun 07:00 - 22:00.
Miatours B-2, Vrata Sv. Krševana, tel. (+385-23) 25
43 00/(+385-23) 25 44 00, info@miatours.hr, www.
miatours.hr. NLP agent. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00, Tue, Thu
08:00 - 14:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. A
Harbourmasters’ office
Lučka kapetanija K-5/B-2, Liburnska obala 8, tel.
(+385-23) 25 48 88, milivoj.maricic@pomorstvo.hr.
Rent a bike
Calimero M-5, Ulica II zasjedanja ZAVNOH-a 1, tel.
(+385-23) 31 10 10/(+385-) 095 300 40 00, www.
calimero-sport.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 -
13:00. Closed Sun. A
Mondena travel C-4, M. Pavlinovića 12a, tel. (+385-23)
31 37 47/(+385-) 098 65 47 02, info@mondenatravel.
hr, www.mondenatravel.hr. Q Open 08:30 - 13:30, 17:30
- 20:30, Sat 08:30 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Photo Competition Be Local!
Be local! Send us a photo on the theme “I’ll be back
in Zagreb” (Vraćam se Zagrebe tebi..) and win one of
four brilliant Lufthansa suitcases, perfect as carryon
luggage. Then you’ll be all set to take advantage
of Lufthansa’s great prices: fly direct to Berlin for only
€49!*
For each of the next four issues of Zagreb In Your Pocket,
one lucky person will win one of these great prizes. You
can even enter all four if you’re feeling lucky!
The four competitions run during the following dates:
1. 1 April - 15 May 2012
2. 25 May - 10 July 2012
3. 20 July - 1 September 2012
4. 15 September - 20 October 2012
You can send up to 5 photographs for each competition.
An expert jury will carefully evaluate all applications and
pick one winner for each of the four competitions.
The results will be published in Zagreb In Your Pocket
issue nos. 66, 67, 68 and 69, out in June, August,
October and December, as well as on the Web page
www.inyourpocket.com/country/croatia.
How to Enter
Send your photos to foto.inyourpocket@gmail.com or to
Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Draškovićeva 66, 10 000 Zagreb ,
marked “Photo Competition”.
Please send the following information with your photos:
your name, address, telephone number, e-mail address,
name of the photo, and place where the photo was
taken.
The photographs must be in JPEG (.jpg) format. The
minimum resolution of each photograph must be
300 dpi, with a maximum file size of up to 5 MB. The
dimensions of the photos must be 30x40cm. You can
send your photos by post on a CD or by e-mail.
Conditions of Entry
We’re sorry, but we can’t return CDs sent for the
purposes of the competition. The competition
organizers will retain the photos on a permanent basis
for non-commercial purposes together with the name
of the photographer. Entrants to the competition will be
added to the Lufthansa newsletter mailing list.
*Berlin for only €49! - one way ticket; all taxes and fees
included.
zadar.inyourpocket.com
GETTING AROUND
Travel agencies
Kompas B-2, Poljana Natka Nodila 9, tel. (+385-23) 25
43 04/(+385-23) 25 43 06, www.kompas-travel.com.
QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. N
Terra G-2, Matije Gupca 2a, tel. (+385-23) 33 72 94,
fax (+385-23) 33 72 95, info@terratravel.hr, www.
terratravel.hr. Rafting, bungee jumping... QOpen 08:00 -
22:00. A
Petrol stations
Euro Petrol Petrčane Petrčane bb, tel. (+385-23)
36 44 34. Q June - October Open 00:00 - 24:00. A
INA - Borik G-4, A.G.Matoša 4, tel. (+385-) 091
497 13 24, www.ina.hr. QOpen 06:00 - 21:00. A
INA - Put Murvice west O-1, Zagrebačka 38,
tel. (+385-) 091 497 13 28, www.ina.hr. QOpen
00:00 - 24:00. A
INA - Voštarnica Kneza Branimira bb, tel. (+385-)
091 497 13 29, www.ina.hr. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00.
A
Summer 2012
39

40 GETTING AROUND
Bus lines
In the sweltering heat of the Mediterranean summer the
last thing that tourists need is to contemplate on how to
get from A to B. Rest assured dear visitors as you can
wipe the sweat of your brows as you’ll be pleased to
know that Zadar has excellent connections to the rest
of Croatia. All the major destinations are covered and if
you do have any inquiries, simply check directly at the
Zadar Bus Station or phone 060 30 53 05. Timetable
changes are possible for all lines after 1 July.
Zadar is well connected to Zagreb with daily lines. For
those wishing to travel closer to the Zadar surroundings
there is a bus line for Benkovac at 07:00 and 17:45.
Island hoppers who choose Vir as a destination won’t
miss out as there is a bus line that comes from Zagreb
and leaves Zadar at 19:30. In addition, there is also a
line Čakovec-Vir that runs from June 16 until September
15 which stops in Zadar at 10:40 and continues through
to Vir.
If you’ve done your research you’ll know that Novalja is
one of the hit party destinations and therefore there is
a bus that travels daily at 14:00 and 20:00. Take note
as an additional line to Novalja is scheduled from June
1 until September 30 with a bus that departs at 17:00.
With the new state of the art freeways built, the Zagreb-
Split bus line is definitely the best way to travel time-wise.
In saying that, there are also buses available for those
who wish to take the lovely coastal route along the sea.
As a bonus, this Zagreb-Split line does stop in Zadar.
If you’re travelling south to Dubrovnik, there is a line
from Trieste that arrives to Zadar at 01:00 and then
proceeds further down.
To the north of the country there are bus lines for the
city of Rijeka. For the Istrian peninsula and the city of
Pula the bus lines from Zadar depart at 08:00, 12:00
and 23:30.
For the most eastern part of Croatia there is a bus line
to Osijek which leaves Zadar at 23:00.
Timetable changes are possible for all lines after 1 July.
Parking
Parking is limited by space in the old city, and by the fact
that within the walls most of it is pedestianised. There
are a few car parks inside, otherwise there are parking
spaces alongside the city walls on the way to the ferry
terminal. There is a somewhat larger car park on the
mainland by the footbridge. See the map at the back of
the guide. Disabled parking spaces are available in all car
parks. Parking in Zadar every day from 1 Jul to 31 Aug,
08:00-22:00 is charged at the following rates: in Zone
1 - 12 kn/h; Zone 2 - 10 kn/h; Zone 3 - 3 kn/h and Zone
4 - 2 kn/h. From 1 Sept to 30 Jun charges are as follows:
Zone 1 - 6 kn/h; Zone 2 - 4 kn/h; Zone 3 - 3 kn/h and
Zone 4 - 2 kn/h; charges are applied every day except
Sundays and bank holidays.
Text Message Parking Croatia is proud to be the first
country where you can pay for parking by text message!
Look for the signs in parking areas - they should have a
blue or white field. Simply send the registration number
of your car as a text message (no spaces, no special
characters) to 8231 ( zone 1), 8232 ( zone 2), 8233 (zone
3), 8234 (zone 4), 8236 (Petrčane zone). Your payment
is confirmed when you get a message back from them.
� Zadar
telephone code is +385-23
Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com

Beaches
If you’re in the heart of Zadar and dying for a swim, you
can head to the Riva, the promenade on the south side
of the Old Town, it’s perfectly clean for swimming. The
traditional town beach is, however, at Kolovare, east of
the Old Town. Although the water is clean, unfortunately
the pebble beach is not as attractive as it could be if
someone would only pick up the pieces of brick and
assorted rubble that have somehow found their way
there. Kolovare beach does have good faciltites including
cafes and restaurants, and is a good place to hang out,
day or night. Behind Taverna Kolovare are public toilets
and you can play table tennis in the shade. There are
more secluded bathing spots all the way to the headland
in the east.
Borik is a very popular place to bathe, and this year will
be much improved after extensive investment. It’s good
for kids, as the bay is shallow with a sandy bottom, while
the beach has had new shingle added this spring. The
new aqua park is sure to be a big hit with kids. There are
plenty of places for refreshments, watersports, beach
games as well as toilets, showers and changing cubicles.
The further west you walk from Borik, the quieter it gets.
Diklo still has plenty of bars and restaurants, while
Kožino is a refined area of villas.
If you have wheels, north of Zadar you choose either
the crystal, pine-fringed waters at Petrčane, or sandy
bays at Zaton, Nin and Privlaka. Zaton is particularly
good for active types and families with children, as the
holiday settlement has tons of sports and games going
on, the beach is huge and the water is shallow. For those
interested in culture, Nin is one of Croatia’s most ancient
settlements and there are curative mud baths nearby.
But definitely the best bathing awaits you on the islands.
Closest is the island of Ošljak. One ferry a day stops
there on the way to Preko on Ugljan (at 11:00) and picks
you up at 18:00. But the further you venture, the better it
gets. All the islands we feature in Around Zadar have their
own little pieces of heaven. Hire a boat, and pick yours!
And once you get to the quieter islands, of course, you can
find secluded places where you can happily sun yourself
au naturel, undisturbed.
zadar.inyourpocket.com
SPORT
Noir Festival girls
Biking
Zadar’s surroundings are ideal for a spot of hiking and biking
even in high summer. The Ravni Kotari plains in the hinterland
offer gentle terrain for a spot of touring. One of the oldest
cycling routes is between Zadar and Benkovac, where you
can experience local hospitality in the surrounding villages
and visit the ancient ruins of Asseria. The Nature Park and
lake Vransko Jezero offer gentle terrain, though some routes
pass canyons and higher spots where you can enjoy great
views. The islands of Ugljan and Pašman have a particularly
well-developed tradition of active tourism, and a number of
routes cater both for those wanting a gentle sight-seeing
tour allowing you to see some of the islands’ finest churches
and monasteries, and for thrill-seekers demanding more
challenging terrain. Pag island is excellent for intermediate
cyclists, as it’s not too mountainous and there’s plenty to see
and do. The best kicks and the most spectacular scenery
are to be found in the Paklenica National Park. See “Zadar
County” for more info on all of these, or call into the Zadar
County Tourist Office, Sv. Leopolda B. Mandića 1, Zadar
tel. (+385-23) 31 51 07, www.zadar.hr.
Calimero bike shop M-5, Ulica II zasjedanja ZAVNOH-a
1, tel. (+385-23) 31 10 10, www.calimero-sport.hr.
Bikes for sale and rent, servis. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat
08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Eurobike L-5, Obala kneza Branimira 6c, tel. (+385-23)
24 12 43. Bike purchase and service, plus other sports
equipment, including punchbags for when those family
holidays are just getting too much. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00,
Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A
Fishing
Lake Vransko is well-stocked and offers peaceful
surroundings for fisher-persons. To fish anywhere, you
need a licence - costing from 70kn per day. Call into your
local tourist office - take some ID with you.
Horse riding
Take in the scenery while someone else does the hard work.
Konjički centar Libertas Zaton Holliday Resort, Nin,
tel. (+385-) 098 47 22 27, info@horse-center-libertas.
hr, www.horse-center-libertas.hr. Q May - Septemeber
Open 07:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 22:00.
Summer 2012
41

42 SPORT
Sport events
20.07 Friday - 19.08 Sunday
VAK’AN’ZA
B-4, Riva and City beaches. A fun for all water polo
tournament for men, women and a veteran’s category
with the aim of gathering old district teams from the Zadar
region. The event will be held across various beaches
with an entertainment programme provided throughout
various cafes, clubs and bars…
29.07 Sunday - 31.07 Tuesday
Wakeboard Contest Zadar
E-2, Jazine Bay. Adventure enthusiasts should head on
down to the sport harbour Jazine in Zadar for some thrills
and spills that might give you chills. Over 25 athletes will
acrobatically display some amazing skills on water in a
growing sport that combines water skiing, snow-boarding
and surfing.
05.08 Sunday
The 40th traditional swimming marathon
Preko-Zadar
Kolovare bb. Put on those swimsuits and find your way
to the Preko Riviera, you can catch the ships which leave
for Preko at 7.30am as the event starts at 9am. By 10am
the first swimmers are expected to arrive at the Kolovare
pools. Fun and fitness for all.
25.08 Saturday
Jadran Rowing Duel
E-2, Jazine Bay, www.vk-jadran.hr. Row, row, row your
boat gently down the Jazine! Indeed, see this 8 man
rowing regatta with local and international crews battling
the conditions for the prized trophy. Starts at 4pm and
its 500 meters in distance.
More fun....
07.07. Zadar: Aquatlon
08-09.09. Dugi Otok: Aquatlon,Triatlon
09.08. Dugi Otok: Triatlon
11.08. Ist: Swimming Marathon
Konjički klub Epona N/O-1, Hrvatskog sabora 1, tel.
(+385-) 099 673 71 06. QOpen 16:00 - 22:00.
Marinas
ACI Šimuni Obala 1, Kolan, Pag Island, tel. (+385-23)
69 74 57, m.simuni@aci-club.hr, www.aci-club.hr. 200
berths, 60 places on land, a 15t crane and slipway for vessels
up to 8m. Q Reception Open 08:00 - 20:00. July, August
Open 07:00 - 22:00
Benjamin Marina Iž Island - Veli Iž bb, tel. (+385-23)
27 70 06/(+385-) 091 576 53 11, sinisakulisic@gmail.
com. A small marina on peaceful Iž island, in a lovely little
bay and with a good restaurant. Q Reception Open 07:30
- 15:00, 18:00 - 21:00.
Marina Biograd Bukovačka bb, Biograd, tel. (+385-
23) 38 61 22, marina.biograd@zd.t-com.hr. Biograd’s
new dry marina is the place to keep your baby under wraps
over winter. 24 hour surveillance and maintenance services.
QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Marina Dalmacija G-5, Bibinje - Sukošan (Elizabete
Kotromanić11/1, Zadar), tel. (+385-23) 20 03 00,
info@marinadalmacija.hr, www.marinadalmacija.hr. A
beautifully laid out Blue Flag marina near a beach resort with
a nice old centre just a few kilometres south of Zadar. Don’t
miss ancient Konoba Kaleta - see “Where to eat”. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00.
Marina Kornati Šetalište kneza Branimira 1, Biograd,
tel. (+385-23) 38 38 00, info@marinakornati.com, www.
marinakornati.com. A full service marina close to the Kornati
National Park, in the lively resort of Biograd. The marina is
backed by three hotels, the Adriatic, Ilirija and Kornati, owned
by the same company as the marina. See “Where to stay”
under “Out of town”. Charter available. QOpen 07:30 - 21:00.
Marina Zadar B-1, Ivana Meštrovića 2, tel. (+385-23)
33 27 00/(+385-23) 20 48 62, marina@tankerkomerc.
hr, www.tankerkomerc.hr. This is the marina closest
to the old centre of Zadar. 300 sea and 200 dry berths, a
restaurant with a great sunset view and secure parking.
Charter available. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. W
Rafting
In the mountains just east of Zadar is the beautiful greenblue
river Zrmanja, with rushing torrents, small waterfalls and
canyons making for a spectacular, exciting and refreshing
ride.
Bora Tours F-4, Majstora Radovana 7, tel. (+385-23) 33
77 60, info@boratours.hr, www.boratours.hr. They also
organise rafting, kayaking and canoeing expeditions. QOpen
09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 17:00 - 20:00. A
Sailing
There’s no better way to spend your holiday. Why? 1. You
can go faster. 2. You can get to paradise beaches where
nobody else goes. 3. The cool sea breeze. 4. It’s great.
Need we say more?
Euromarine Šetalište kneza Branimira 1, Biograd, tel.
(+385-23) 38 48 55, biograd@euromarine.hr, www.
euromarine.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A
Uskok H-4, Obala kneza Trpimira bb, tel. (+385-23) 33
10 76/(+385-23) 33 78 30, office@uskok.biz.hr, www.
uskok.biz.hr. Q Open 07:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat
07:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. N
Yacht Club Biograd Kralja Petra Svačića 17, tel.
(+385-23) 38 53 35, info@yc-biograd.com, www.ycbiograd.com.
Tennis
Tennis club Zadar I-3/4, Sutomiška ulica 1 (uvala
Draženica), tel. (+385-23) 33 20 22. QOpen 12:00 -
14:00, 17:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00.
50kn / per hour.
Windsurfing
Although the waters around Zadar are rather calm for
adrenaline surfing, there are places where you can hone
your skills, or learn the basics.
Surfmania centre Kraljičina beach, Sabunike, Nin,
tel. (+385-) 098 912 98 18, info@surfmania.hr, www.
surfmania.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
www.inyourpocket.com
Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com

People have always been curious to discover the secrets
concealed by the sea. We know that the ancient Greeks
mastered the techniques diving for sponges and sea snails.
But the seabed is still very much uncharted territory, and
many people believe that the seas and the oceans conceal
the greatest mysteries of the planet.
On the Adriatic, diving has a history as long as mankind’s
dependence on the sea for its livelihood. We know, for
example, that towards the end of the 19th century people
from the island of Krapanj were using supple jackets when
diving for sponges. However, it was two brothers from
Slovenia named Ivan and Dušan Kuščer who popularised
diving as a recreational pastime. They published photographs
and writings documenting their underwater adventures in the
1930s, when they explored the northern Croatian coast using
diving equipment they had made themselves.
zadar.inyourpocket.com
DIVING
Why is it that people are so fascinated by diving? And what’s
all the fuss about the Adriatic Sea? At first glance, the Adriatic
may not look particularly colourful or rich in sea life compared
with most tropical waters, for example. But as legions of
diving enthusiasts will confirm, the waters of the Adriatic
definitely have their own wonders and offer plenty to explore.
This is one of the cleanest seas in Europe with a combination
of characteristics that make it a wonderful haven for divers.
The Adriatic is shallow,
warm and salty. The
seabed is either rocky,
pebbly or sandy, and the
water is so transparent
that in some places you
can see for 60 metres.
There are no strong tides
to contend with. However,
there are strong currents
in places, mainly in
channels where the
water surges between
islands, as well as on
the fringes of the islands.
Thanks to the forces of
nature and of history there is a great deal to be discovered
under the calm blue surface of the Adriatic. It is rich in flora
and fauna, some of which is unique to these waters. The
seabed is made up of impressive underwater rock faces and
reefs and is dotted with shipwrecks, archaeological finds and
even the odd aeroplane which has found its way down there.
And this fascinating world extends right along the length of
the Croatian coast.
The northern part of the Adriatic is the most visited by
divers thanks to its shallow waters and lush vegetation. The
coastline around the Istrian peninsula is the last resting place
of a number of ancient vessels. The central and southern
parts of the Adriatic have deeper and more transparent
waters and spectacular underwater escarpments. Some of
the most attractive locations here are around the islands of
Vis and Hvar, the Kornati archipelago and in the Dubrovnik
area.
Summer 2012
43

44 DIVING
Apart from these locations, some of the most interesting –
and dangerous – diving adventures are to be had in secret
underwater caves. Among the most beautiful of these are:
the Green Cave (Zelena špilja) on the island of Vis; the Blue
Cave (Modra špilja) on the island of Biševo; the Bear Cave
(Medvjeđa špilja) on Mali Lošinj, and Zaklopatica on the
island of Korčula.
Apart from exercising caution when diving in caves or other
potentially hazardous locations, divers should be aware that
diving is not allowed at the following places: harbours and
moorings, areas with heavy boat traffic, military zones, nature
reserves, nature parks, the Brijuni and Krka National Parks
and the islands of Palagruža and Jabuka.
Diving is allowed at the Kornati and Mljet National Parks
with a special permit. And you need prior permission from
the Ministry of Culture if you want to dive from the following
locations:
The islands of Vis, Biševo, Svetac,
Brusnik, Sušak, Lastovo and
Palagruža
Around (within 300m of) the following
shipwrecks: the Szent Istvan, the
Corida-nus, the BarenGautsch, the
S-57.
The archaeological sites at Žirje and Cavtat
So long as you have the right permit, you can dive as an
individual or as part of a group.
If you’d like to take part in an organized dive in Croatia,
contact a registered diving instructor, school or association
(see the list of diving centres at the end of this article). If
you’re going out diving on your own, be sure to properly mark
the spot where you dive with a surface marker buoy. Individual
divers must get a permit, which costs 2400kn, from the local
harbourmaster’s office. Sports scuba divers must not dive
to depths greater than 40m.
The Adriatic is not known for deadly sea creatures but
there are certain species which can give you an unpleasant
sting, so it is worth exercising caution. Do not try to feed
or otherwise disturb sea creatures since otherwise docile
characters may become aggressive if they perceive you
as a threat. It goes without saying that each and every
diver is responsible for protecting the fragile underwater
environment. Your aim should be to leave no trace of your
dive when you have finished.
Whether you’re interested in diving to shipwrecks, caves
or underwater rock faces, Croatia is a great destination
for diving. And thanks to modern diving equipment and
techniques, children as young as 10 years old can dive quite
safely, as can disabled divers. Just be sure before every dive
to check the rules for safe diving in that location, to avoid
putting your life – or anyone else’s – in danger. And of course,
before you begin, you’ll have taken your certificate so you
know exactly what you’re doing!
We wish you calm seas and a wealth of exciting dives!
Dive centres
Zadar Sub Dubrovačka 20a, Zadar, tel. (+385-23) 21
48 48, zadarsub@zadarsub.hr, www.zadarsub.hr. Open
08:00 - 20:00.
Albamaris Ivane B. Mažuranić 4, BIograd na Moru,
tel. (+385-) 098 193 53 30, info@albamaris.hr, www.
albamaris.hr.
Open 08:00 - 20:00.
Scuba Adriatic Zaton Holiday Resort, tel. (385-) 098
68 69 99, info@scubaadriatic.com, www.scubaadriatic.
com. Open Mon - Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com

Art Galleries
Anima C-3, Vladimira Papafave 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 78
01/(+385-) 091 545 19 50, www.anima.hr. Paintings and
postcards by well-known local artist Zoran Debelić. Dalmatian
themes. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 -
13:00. Closed Sun. A
Bambola C-3, Ul plemića Borelli 7, tel. (+385-23) 31 86
10. Gifts and stationery aimed at younger tastes. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Laudato D-3, Don Ive Prodana 11, tel. (+385-) 091 589
84 14, laudato@laudato.hr, www.laudato.hr. Gallery of
sacred art and Croatian souvenirs. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.
Closed Sun.
More B-3, Široka ulica bb, tel. (+385-23) 21 16 24/
(+385-) 098 955 80 12. Croatian souvenirs. QOpen
08:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. A
Museum of Ancient Glass Shop D-2, Poljana
Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 31, www.
mas-zadar.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A
Pia C-3, Madijevaca 9, tel. (+385-23) 25 14 60. Paintings,
ceramics, lamps, bags and more made by Croatian and Zadar
artisans. The staff will also help you with tourist information.
Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun. N
Studio Lik D-3, Don Ive Prodana 7, tel. (+385-) 098 975
76 61/(+385-) 095 909 67 63. Traditional hand-made
lace from Pag island and Lepoglava (Slavonia); Konavoski
woven textiles from Dubrovnik; traditional Croatian sheepskin
slippers. Handmade glassware, ceramics and textiles. Q
Open 09:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun.
Val B-1, Ivana Mažuranića 20, tel. (+385-23) 23 57 91.
No, it’s not the name of the owner of unspecified gender, val
means “wave”. Distinctive paintings by Zadar artist Silviana
Dražević, and jewellery by her brother Ivan. Q Open 09:00 -
12:00, 18:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Are you a philatelist?
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Stamp collector that
is….Great news as
the Zadar Museum is
carousing its big jubilee
– 180 years since its
founding. Celebrations
continue with the
issuing of a post stamp
which depicts a relief
of Saint Chrysogonus
from the 13th century!
Be sure to add that to
your collection…
Bookshops
Algoritam N-5, Murvička 1 (City Galleria), tel. (+385-
23) 49 30 50, www.algoritam.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Closed Sun. A
VBZ F-6, Knezova Šubića Bribirskih 10, tel. (+385-23)
25 45 50, www.vbz.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00
- 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Delicatessen shop
The first thing that comes to a Croatian’s mind when they hear
the name Pag is sheep. The second is salt. The barren, sunbaked
terrain means that the herbs that the sheep munch
on are salty and highly aromatic, lending a special flavour to
their milk. Which makes great cheese. A good Pag cheese is
SHOPPING
mature, strong tasting and hard, a little like Parmesan. Many
restaurants pass off rubbery, bland cheese resembling Edam
as Pag cheese and thus deserve a good slapping. The real
Pag cheese is expensive, so don’t be surprised if cheaper
offerings disappoint. We recommend being adventurous and
trying to get hold of some home made stuff on the island
itself. Ask your hosts to recommend someone, or look out
for signs saying Paški sir.
Pršut is to Croatia what Prosciutto di Parma is to Italy.
(And they are essentially the same thing: cured ham - a
tastebud-tingling delicacy).
Dalmatian Pršut can be dry and salty or butter-soft and
mild. It’s difficult to go wrong, they’re all good, but the factory
at Posedarje (just inland from Zadar) has been collecting
international awards left, right and centre for its offering. Give
yourself a lunchtime treat of pršut with fresh white bread,
butter, home-grown tomatoes, local olive oil, a handful of
olives and a good glass of red wine.
Bibich C-3, Kraljskog Dalmatina 7, tel. (+385-23) 25
02 46, alen.bibic@zd.htnet.hr. A wine warehouse with
a good selection of gourmet products and gifts. QOpen
08:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. A
Delikatese Lukin N-5, Murvička 1 (City Galleria).
QOpen 08:00 - 13:30, Sun 08:00 - 10:30.
Dobra vina N-5, Murvička 1 (City Galleria), tel. (+385-
23) 29 90 44, info@dobravina.hr, www.dobravina.hr.
QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
Gligora N-5, Murvička 1(City Galleria), tel. (+385-23)
31 33 96, sirena@sirena.hr, www.sirena.hr. Gligora is a
specialised cheese factory on the island of Pag. It produces
one of Croatia’s finest and most recognised cheeses.
Also at Hrvoja V. Hrvatinčića 5 (City Market) tel. 70 07 30.
QOpen 07:00 - 13:00, Sun 07:00 - 11:00. A
Maraska B-3, Mate Karamana 3, www.maraska.hr.
Purveyors of alcoholic and non-alcoholic renditions of the
Maraschino cherry; plus a selection of other potions to soften
your vocal chords and your general view of humanity. Other
groceries available too. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 -
14:00. Closed Sun. N
Jewellery designer Antonija Gospić runs workshops in the
Museum of Ancient Glass, and you can buy her designs in
Marival, Ulica Don Ive Prodana.
Summer 2012
45

46 SHOPPING
Olvin N-5, Ljudevita Posavskog 35. A company producing
its own high-quality olive oil, also selling wines and juices.
QOpen 07:00 - 14:30, Sat 07:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N
Uljara Joskro K-1, Put Bokanjca 24, tel. (+385-23) 32
22 25/(+385-) 098 27 39 38, joskro1@zd.t-com.hr. This
family sell their own olive oil, plus anchovies and cows’ and
goats’ milk cheese marinated in olive oil. Q Open 08:00 -
16:00, Sat and Sun Open by prior arrangement.
Vagabondo D-3, Špire Brusine 13. A large
selection of wines from the Zadar County.
Some of which are worth your attention.
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. J
Foreign newspapers
For foreign daily papers (German and Italian editions tend to
be easiest to come by) try the Slobodna Dalmacija kiosk on
the mainland side of the bridge to the Old Town - Stjepana
Radića bb. (D-1). Also at: Obala kneza Branimira bb (D-
1), and Miroslava Krleže bb (B-1)and Tisak shop at Ulica
plemića Borelli 25 (C-3).
Nautical supplies
Adriana Šport B-2, Liburnska obala 6, tel. (+385-23)
25 09 68.QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed
Sun. A
Big Blue L-4, J.J.Strossmayera bb, tel. (+385-23) 23
59 24.QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed
Sun. N
Lalizas Marina B-3, Jurja Bijankinija 9, tel. (+385-23)
25 44 58.Q Open 08:00 - 12:30, 17:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00
- 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Udica C-1, Obala kneza Branimira 14, tel. (+385-23)
30 53 98. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun. A
Souvenirs
The Zadar National Museum
Shop C-3, Narodni trg. Want an
original souvenir? Something authentic!
Visit the ground floor of the City Guard
at the Narodni Square and choose from published works,
postcards, magnets, key rings, lavender packages, puzzles,
art work reproductions and other souvenirs featuring motifs
of the museum’s artefacts. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. J
Shopping centres
City Galleria N-5, Murvička 1, tel. (+385-23) 30
01 00, www.citygalleria.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Closed Sun. P
Supernova centar Zadar Akcije Maslenica 1, tel.
(+385-23) 32 73 01. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.
Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com

Banks & Exchanges
Aquarius D-2, Nova vrata bb, tel. (+385-23) 21 29
19, juresko@zd.t-com.hr, www.juresko.hr. Q June,
September Open 07:30 - 22:00. July, August Open 07:30
- 24:00.
Erste & Steiemarkische Bank C-3, Široka ulica 1,
tel. (+385-) 062 37 46 60, www.erstebank.hr. QOpen
08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Hypo Alpe-Adria Bank D-3, Jurja Barakovića 4, tel.
(+385-23) 36 39 20, www.hypo-alpe-adria.hr. QOpen
08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
OTP B-3, Široka ulica 1, tel. (+385-) 062 20 14 08,
www.otpbanka.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 -
12:00. Closed Sun.
Privredna banka C-3, Široka ulica bb, tel. (+385-23)
22 30 64, www.pbz.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00
- 12:00. Closed Sun. July and August Open 08:00 - 19:00,
Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Raiffeisen Bank D-1, Ul. bana Josipa Jelačića 1a, tel.
(+385-23) 72 31 00, www.rba.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00,
Sat 08:30 - 12:30. Closed Sun.
Zagrebačka banka C-2, Brne Karnarutića 13, tel.
(+385-23) 20 83 00, www.zaba.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Brokerage houses
OTP B-3, Domovinskog rata 3, tel. (+385-) 062 20 16
69, www.otpbanka.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00
- 12:00. Closed Sun.
Business connections
HGK - Županijska komora Zadar (Croatian
Chamber of Economy - Zadar Chamber) D-3, Špire
Brusine 16, tel. (+385-23) 21 17 47, hgkzd@hgk.hr,
www.hgk.hr. The Zadar branch of the Croatian Chamber of
Commerce. QOpen 07:30 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
zadar.inyourpocket.com
BUSINESS DIRECTORY
Forum, Tim Ertl
Obrtnička komora Zadarske županije C-3, Široka
ulica 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 92 24/(+385-23) 31 92 73,
ok.zadar@hok.hr. The County Chamber of Trade. QOpen
08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Consulates
Ukraine O - 5, Ulica kralja Tvrtka 3, tel. (+385-23) 789
29 88, consul.malic@gmail.com. Q Open Mon, Wed, Fri
08:00 - 14:00. Closed Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun.
Interpreters & Translators
Acro D-3, Špire Brusine 13, tel. (+385-23) 31 43 99,
acro@zd.t-com.hr. QOpen 08:30 - 20:30, Sat 08:30 -
13:30. Closed Sun.
Geo K-2, Put Vukića 23, tel. (+385-23) 31 27 58/(+385-
) 098 964 24 34, jasminka.bajlo@zd.t-com.hr. QOpen
09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Real estate
Chonic D-3, Špire Brusine 10/I, tel. (+385-23) 31 16
67/(+385-) 098 73 60 59, 091 564 62 10, www.chonicnekretnine.hr.
QOpen 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Gea D-3, Mihovila Klaića 9, tel. (+385-23) 25 11 33/
(+385-23) 25 10 69, gea3@zd.t-com.hr, www.gea.hr. Q
Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Palmes Ugljan 22, Ugljan Island, tel. (+385-23) 28 80
27/(+385-) 098 187 15 30, palmes@palmes-nekretnine.
hr, www.palmes-nekretnine.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Phoenix I-4, Strossmayerova 6a, tel. (+385-23) 23 91
39, 23 91 41/(+385-) 091 235 92 33, info@nekretninephoenix.hr,
www.nekretnine-phoenix.hr. QOpen 08:00
- 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Sanmark D-2, Jurja Barakovića 4, tel. (+385-23) 31
34 17, sanmark.zadar@gmail.com, www.sanmark.
hr. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Summer 2012
47

48 LIFESTYLE DIRECTORY
Dry cleaners & Laundries
Etilen N - 6, Ljudevita Posavskog 3, tel. (+385-23) 21
49 04. Dry cleaners and laundries. Q Open 08:00 - 12:30,
17:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Gobin D-3, Don Ive Prodana 9, tel. (+385-23) 21 34
71. Dry cleaners. Q Open 08:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 20:00,
Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. V
Lotos J - 3, Ivana Gundulića 4d, tel. (+385-23) 33 51 40.
Laundries. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.
Emergency health care
Hitna medicinska pomoć B-1, Ivana Mažuranića 28a,
tel. (+385-23) 23 98 11. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
Hospital
Hospital Zadar N-6, Bože Peričića 5, tel. (+385-23)
50 55 05, www.bolnica-zadar.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
Pharmacies
Kadulja B-1, Ivana Mažuranića 22, tel. (+385-23) 23
58 63. A “biljna drogerija” is a herbal pharmacy, a popular
concept in Croatia since the beginning of time. Here you’ll
find medicinal teas, vitamins, health foods, essential oils and
natural cosmetics from companies such as Dr Hauschka. Q
Open 08:00 - 14:00, Tue, Thu 08:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 19:00,
Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. N
Ljekarna Centar D-3, Jurja Barakovića 2, tel. (+385-
23) 30 29 20. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:30 - 13:30.
Closed Sun. A
Ljekarna Donat C-3, Braće Vranjanina bb, tel. (+385-
23) 25 13 42/(+385-23) 25 14 80. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00,
Sat 07:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. A
Ljekarna Voštarnica D-1, Bana Josipa Jelačića 6b, tel.
(+385-23) 23 12 05. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 -
13:30. Closed Sun. A
Photocopying
Pharos C-3, Široka ulica 6, tel. (+385-23) 31 70 54,
pharos@zd.t-com.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 20:30,
Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Photography
Foto link D-3, Ilije Smiljanića 2, tel. (+385-23) 31 37
48, info@londonlink.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00
- 14:00. Closed Sun. J
Police station
Police station C-3, Zore Dalmatinske 1, tel. (+385-23)
34 51 41, pitanja@mup.hr, www.zadarska.policija.hr.
Vets
Animalia L-2, Pašmanski prilaz 2, tel. (+385-23) 32
36 25/(+385-) 091 563 01 61, animalia@zd.t-com.
hr, www.animalia.hr. The name says it all and if you’ve
brought your pet along with you, then let it be known that
the ER services here range from the diagnosing and treating
of pets, including contagious and parasite diseases, shots,
laboratory tests as well as surgical and aesthetic operations.
Animalia has everything your four-legged companion may ever
need! Emergencies can be dealt with by phone 091 563 01
61. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Pet Club N-2, Zrinsko Frankopanska 14, tel. (+385-23)
31 23 08, info@petclubzadar.com, www.petclubzadar.
com. Veterinary pharmacy. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00
- 14:00. Closed Sun. A
Veterinarska stanica K-2, Put Bokanjca bb, tel. (+385-
23) 32 28 77. Animal clinic. For an emergency call 098 33 94
00. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Zoo - Vet R-4, Biogradska 65, tel. (+385-23) 21 42 95,
www.zoo-vet.hr. Sounds like the stuff reality shows are
made of! For an emergency call 091 214 29 55. QOpen
08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com

LIFESTYLE DIRECTORY

50
BIRDWATCHING IN IN CROATIA
Note: this is not a specialist or expert text on birdwatching
but a general overview of birdwatching in Croatia. The text
has been prepared in cooperation with the web portal www.
ptice.net and with the kind assistance of Mr Darko Podravec,
with our thanks.
Birdwatching in Croatia is only recently gaining in popularity,
partly due to the interest shown by visitors from other
European countries, notably Great Britain. However, local
ornithological societies and other organisations, including
schools, are also making a significant contribution through
monitoring the numbers of birds, organising volunteer camps
for tagging birds and raising awareness about the need not
only to protect birds but the environment as a whole.
According to data from the State Directorate for the
Protection of Nature and the Environment, in December
1999, there were 371 bird species in Croatia, an exceptionally
high number for a country of this size. There are 228 nesting
species, of which 78 are registered as endangered species in
Europe. At the same time, Croatia has an exceptionally high
number of endangered species due to disappearing habitats,
especially wetlands, and due to poaching. The majority of
protected species are to be found in hard-to-reach areas
Darko Podravec
such as mountain peaks, cliff faces and gorges, and areas
such as the Neretva delata on the Adriatic coast and along
the Sava and Drava rivers in the north, as well as close to the
large fish farms to be found in Pannonian Croatia.
Today in Croatia there are 19 bird reserves engaged in
nature protection in areas where there are large bird
populations, large numbers of species of birds, or where
endangered species are to be found. Birdlife International has
identified 23 Important Bird Areas in Croatia, while the State
Directorate for the Protection of Nature and the Environment
has recognised 40 areas which are important for bird life.
Some of these areas are bird reserves, some form parts of
national parks or nature parks, while others do not enjoy any
form of protection.
Although there
are birdwatching
opportunities all
year round, the
liveliest seasons are
spring and autumn.
Autumn signals
both the departure
of species that nest
in Croatia and the
arrival of visitors
from northern
Europe and Asia.
In spring, the
species that spend
their winters in the
warmer climes of
Africa return to
nest. At any time,
you might spot a
Darko Podravec
Darko Podravec
species that is just passing through en route to somewhere
else: Croatia is a bottleneck on the migratory route to and
from Africa for a large number of European bird species.
There are guide books available to help you identify species
and understand their behaviour.
Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com

zadar.inyourpocket.com
BIRDWATCHING IN CROATIA 51
Darko Podravec
The best times of the day for birdwatching are the early
morning and early evening. At these times, birds are at their
most active, especially during the summer when birds, like
people, avoid the hottest part of the day.
Of course, if you do go birdwatching, it’s vital to take care
not to disturb the birds. Large numbers of visitors to national
parks, nature parks and bird reserves may be distressing to
their inhabitants, and disturbing the birds prevents us from
being able to observe their natural behaviour. It is advisable
to avoid getting too close to bird nests, since you risk the
parents abandoning the nests, which is disastrous, especially
where endangered species are concerned.
The equipment you need for birdwatching includes good
quality binoculars and a handbook which classifies birds by
species. You’ll also be glad of a good camera and sensible
clothing. Obviously, you should avoid bright colours which will
scare the birds away.
Many birdwatchers pass on the information they collect to
the institutions responsible for the protection of birds or
to ornithological societies, which is of great help to these
organisations in monitoring changes in the number of birds,
in their behaviour and habitats.
Since birdwatching in Croatia is still not very common, below
we list a range of organisations which might be of interest
to nature lovers, although there might neither be much
information about birds in specific nor professional guides.
Before visiting any protected area, we ask you to please
contact the organisation responsible, which will give you
any instructions and warnings necessary to protect fragile
habitats, enabling as many people as possible to enjoy the
beauty of nature as well as learning how to protect it.
Lake Vrana Nature Park / Lake Vrana Bird Reserve
Lake Vrana lies alongside the coast road between Zadar and
Šibenik, or more precisely, between Pirovac and Pakoštane.
241 bird species have been logged in the area of the Nature
Park, 102 of which nest here. This is a good place to spot
the Purple Heron (Ardea purpurea), Great Bittern (Botaurus
stellaris), Corncrake (Crex crex) and Squacco Heron (Ardeola
ralloides), all endangered species in Europe.
The Park staff can organise visits on foot or by boat to
birdwatching sites upon request. The price of a visit,
complete with an expert guide, is 100kn/h per person, and
the trip can take up to five hours. Entry tickets to the Nature
Park are also payable (20kn adults, children 7 - 18, 10kn).
Visitors should bring their own birdwatching equipment, and
call ahead to announce group visits.
Lake Vrana Nature Park Kralja Petra Svačića 2, Biograd,
tel. (+385-23) 38 31 81, 38 64 52, pp-vransko-jezero@
zd.t-com.hr,www.vransko-jezero.hr.
Pag island The island of Pag is home to the following bird
reserves: Kolansko blato, Blato Rogoza, Veliko blato and
Malo blato. All of these are marshlands which are home to
species including the Gadwall (Anas strepera), Montagu’s
Harrier (Circus pygargus) and Calandra Lark (Melanocorypha
calandra), which are endangered in Europe. Call into the
Tourist Association in Povljana to buy entry tickets for the
Veliko blato reserve, which has a hide with a checklist.
Povljana Tourist Association Stjepana Radića 20,
Povljana, tel. (+385-23) 69 20 03, (+385)098 184
21 29, tz-povljana@zd.t-com.hr, www.tz-povljana.hr.
Kolan Tourist Association Trg kralja Tomislava, Kolan,
tel. (+385-23) 69 82 90, info@tzkolan-mandre.com,
www.tzkolan-mandre.com.
Telašćica Nature Park This
fantastic nature park in the Telašćica
Bay on Dugi Otok is also designated
an Important Bird Area. 110 bird
species have been sighted here.
Perhaps the most exciting birds to
spot are birds of prey such as the
Peregrine Falcon (Falco peregrinus).
The Park is accessible by boats laid
on by travel agencies and private boat
owners, or from dry land from the town
of Sali. Entry tickets cost 14 - 60kn. Darko Podravec
If you require a guide, please phone one week in advance.
Telašćica Nature Park Ulica Danijela Grbin bb, Sali, tel.
(+385-23)37 70 96, 37 73 95, telascica@zd.t-com.hr,
www.telascica.hr.
Kornati National Park A national park made up of some
90 islands, islets and reefs spanning the area between
Biograd and Šibenik. The land is owned by the residents
of the surrounding islands. This is also an Important Bird
Area, although it’s insufficiently researched with respect to
fauna and flora so there are no accurate data on numbers
of species. In common with other island habitats, owls,
seagulls and the European Shag (no tittering, you at the back)
Darko Podravec
Summer 2012

52 BIRDWATCHING IN CROATIA
can be spotted here.
You can visit Kornati
if you have your own
boat, or as part of a
trip organised by a
travel agencies and
private boat owners
in the areas of Šibenik,
Murter, Zadar, Biograd
and the islands in the
Darko Podravec
Zadar area. Tickets
are for sale in the Park
itself and in local travel agencies, and cost 150 - 1500kn
depending on the size of the boat. There are no guided tours.
Kornati National Park Butina 2, Murter, tel. (+385-22)
43 57 40, kornati@kornati.hr, www.kornati.hr.
Paklenica National Park
The Paklenica National Park occupies the coastal part of
the southern Velebit mountains. The Park is famous for the
large difference in altitudes you cross as you travel through
it, complete with changes in climate, all in a relatively small
area. Bird species you might spot on the rock and cliff faces
include the Rock Nuthatch (Sitta neumayer) and the Blue
Rock Thrush (Monticola solitarius). Rare and endangered
birds of prey to be found here include the Golden Eagle (Aquila
chrysaetos), Peregrine Falcon (Falco peregrinus), Short-Toed
Eagle (Circaetus gallicus) and Goshawk (Accipiter gentiles).
Entry tickets to the park cost 50kn depending on the time
of year. Birdwatching as an individual is not permitted:
please call ahead to organise a tour with one of the Park’s
official guides.
Paklenica National Park dr. F. Tuđmana 14a, Starigrad
- Paklenica, tel. (+385-23) 36 92 02, prezentacija@
paklenica.hr, np-paklenica@zd.t-com.hr, www.
paklenica.hr.
Velebit Nature Park / Northern Velebit National Park
The Velebit is the longest mountain range in Croatia,
stretching 145km from Vratnik near Senj to the River Zrmanja
near Zadar. It is not classified as an Important Bird Area,
nor does it have any bird reserves, but it does encompass
three Parks: the Northern Velebit National Park, the Velebit
Nature Park and the Paklenica National Park. It has two
strict nature reserves (both in the Northern Velebit National
Park) as well as nature reserves for plant life, and the area
is rich in flora and fauna. Nesting sides of the following birds
are to be found here: the Eurasian Pygmy Owl (Glaucidium
passerinum), the Ortolan Bunting (Emberiza hortulana), the
Western Capercaillie or Wood Grouse (Tetrao urogallus),
White Backed Woodpecker (Dendrocopus leucotos) and the
the Boreal Owl (Aegolius funereus).
Velebit National Park Kaniža Gospićka 4b, Gospić, tel.
(+385-53) 56 04 50, Krasno office (+385-53) 85 16 00,
Obrovac office (+385-23)68 98 18, velebit@pp-velebit.
hr, www.pp-velebit.hr.
Northern Velebit Nature Park Krasno 96, Krasno, tel.
(+385-53) 66 53 80, npsv@np-sjeverni-velebit.hr,
www.np-sjeverni-velebit.hr.
Senj Info Centre Obala kralja Zvonimira, tel.(+385-53)
88 45 51. There are no organised birdwatching activities.
Val agency This travel agency organises birdwatching tours
over several days in Dalmatia during the spring and autumn
migrating seasons. Please check www.croatiabirding.hr.
for details, dates and prices.
Val-tours, Trg hrvatskih velikana bb, Biograd n/m,
tel. (+385-23) 38 64 79, info@val-tours.hr,www.valtours.hr.
www.inyourpocket.com
Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com

Islands
Don’t make the mistake of missing some of these great
places in Zadar’s surrounding areas. Many of them are
somewhat neglected by guide books, and therefore all the
more delightful to discover.
Dugi otok
Although it’s easily accessible from Zadar by boat, Croatia’s
“Long Island” is rather far out to sea, and so remains one
of those few places where you can enjoy tranquillity even
in high season. Its capital, Sali, is a simple, historic and
attractive fishing town with a summer cultural festival running
from mid-July to mid-August. The climax of this is a festival
called Saljski užanci - three days of music, fireworks, fresh
grilled fish, drinking, dancing, donkey racing and parades
in traditional local costume in a friendly atmosphere. The
festivites sometimes get rather wild and climax in revellers
leaping into the sea in full national costume! Another unique
element is the strange and haunting folk music of the island,
played on old irons filled with stones, and on enormous horns
poached from some poor beast.
If that all sounds too hectic, head for the smaller village of
Božava. The exceptionally clean sea makes it a haven for
divers. Nearby is a white sand beach called Saharun. There
are other sandy beaches in this area on the north tip of the
island. Treat yourself and hire a boat and explore to your
heart’s content - it’s the best way to explore any island.
Beaches away from settlements and people are, of course,
clothing-optional zones.
A trip to the Telaščica Nature Park is an unmissable part
of a visit to Dugi Otok - it’s within biking distance from Sali.
Telašćica Bay is a 10km deep inlet dotted with bays, islets
and cliffs. A spectacular saltwater lake lies next to the bay -
the water is warm and said to be curative, and you can swim
there. Legends abound about hidden treasure and ancient
inhabitants with five horns on their heads. More visible
treasure is the wildlife that abounds there, from pine to fig to
olive to moufflon (a kind of wild sheep). Although the park is
not commercialised, there are facilities for tourists providing
fresh fish and local wine. Paradise indeed.
www.inyourpocket.com
zadar.inyourpocket.com
ZADAR COUNTY
Tourist information
�
Dugi otok Tourist Board Obala Perta
Lorinija bb, Sali, tel. (+385-23) 37 70 94,
tz-sali@zd.t-com.hr, www.dugiotok.hr. Q
Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 21:00.
Telašćica Nature Park Ulica Danijela Grbin bb,
Sali, tel. (+385-23) 37 70 96/(+385-23) 37 73
93, telascica@zd.t-com.hr, www.telascica.hr. Q
Information office in Sali open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. Park entry tickets and permits are also issued by
Park Rangers who are available and on duty 00:00 -24:00
inside park premises. Admission 60kn.
Iž
This is one for those of you with jangled nerves - a green,
low-lying island with only two picturesque villages: Veli and
Mali Iž. Veli Iž’s Hotel Korinjak serves only vegetarian food,
and offers personal development programs including yoga
and massage. In the town, you can visit a shop and gallery
displaying terracotta pots that have been made here in the
same way since Neolithic times. Islanders used to take it to
Zadar market every day, and it was traded along the whole
Dalmatian coastline.
The streets are too narrow for cars, but luckily the locals
are renowned for being a jolly and friendly lot, and will come
to your aid with trolleys for your luggage. The town’s festival
takes place over 3 days in August, and showcases a local
oddity, water basketball. Mali Iž has lovely beaches. The
islanders live from fishing, olives, making great wine and
a special rakija made with Japanese herbs that they say is
good for the heart. If you’re really nice to them, they might
take you to the islet of Rutnjak, great for swimming, fishing
and diving. If not, you can always swim there.
Tourist information
�
Zadar Tourist Board office Veli Iž 195, tel.
(+385-23) 27 70 21.
Summer 2012
53

54 ZADAR COUNTY
Ist & Molat
Molat is a relative giant of the Zadar archipelago, having 3 -
count ‘em! - attractive little hamlets. OK, we got a bit carried
away - they are very, very small. With only one ferry a day,
Molat really is far from the madding crowd. There are only
a handful of restaurants and shops on the island. Molat is
covered by low-lying shrubs feeding a few goats and sheep.
It’s great to spend the day exploring the pretty coastline by
boat. Some of the best beaches are around Brgulje, where
the ferry docks.
Neighbouring Ist is tiny, measuring under 10km2. It
has sandy beaches, vineyards and olive groves, and is
good for sailing, fishing and total relaxation, absolutely
uncommercialised.
Pašman
You can reach Pašman either by crossing the road bridge
from Ugljan, or by taking the ferry from Biograd to Tkon, the
island’s main settlement. Like Ugljan, it’s fairly low-lying and
fertile, with olive groves and vineyards. There are a couple of
sand beaches at Kraj, a pleasant hamlet with a wonderfully
preserved Franciscan Monastery, St Dominius, dating
back to the 14th century. Tkon also has a 12th century
Romanesque Benedictine convent, sited on Ćokovac
hill, overlooking the town. In general, Pašman consists of
peaceful hamlets and coves to explore on land or by boat, to
relax and enjoy healthy local produce, or even stay in an ecocottage.
If you fancy a little café society, head to Ždrelac,
an idyllic little place where you’ll find a great lounge bar, also
fine for morning coffee. 2km from Tkon, there’s the Sovinje
Naturist Camp (http://fkksovinje.hr), which has lovely clean
sandy beaches.
Tourist information
�
Pašman Tourist Board Pašman, tel.
(+385-23) 26 01 55, info@pasman.hr,
www.pasman.hr.
Tkon Tourist Board Mulina 6, Tkon,
tel. (+385-23) 28 52 13, tz-opcinetkon@zd.t-com.hr.
Q June, September Open 08:00
- 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 10:00. July, August Open 08:00
- 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.
Pag
Pag is one of the most unusual Adriatic islands. Parts of it are
extremely rocky and devoid of vegetation, and look like the
moon. Other parts are reminiscent of Spaghetti Westerns,
with desert-like scenery and the odd spiky cactus. It’s not
what you’d normally expect from the Mediterranean. But
that’s not necessarily a bad thing.
There are many other weird and wonderful things about Pag.
It’s oddly squid-like in shape, with the “tentacles” forming
lagoons. The sea is very calm here and the water has an
exceptionally high salt content. There have been saltpans
here for centuries: you can still buy Pag salt normally in any
supermarket. It’s completely natural and has a high mineral
content. The salty winds mean that on many parts of the
island, rather little vegetation survives except scrub and
herbs, so sheep farming is the main agricultural activity.
These salty herbs lend a special flavour to the animals’
meat and milk, which makes great cheese. Pag cheese
is highly valued - it’s one of Croatia’s most famous export
products. A good Pag cheese is mature, strong tasting and
hard, a little like Parmesan. The real Pag cheese is expensive,
so don’t be surprised if cheaper offerings disappoint. We
recommend being adventurous and trying to get hold of
some home made stuff on the island itself. Ask your hosts
to recommend someone, or look out for signs saying “Paški
sir”. Pag island lamb is also regarded as a delicacy - do try
it if you have the chance.
The island’s other renowned cottage industry is lace
making. Since, once upon a time, there was nothing better
for the women of Pag to do than keep an eye on a few sheep,
watch salt dry and wait for hubby to come home with the
day’s catch, they kept idle thumbs at bay by lace-making.
Over the centuries they evolved a style so ethereal that it
is considered one of Croatia’s most highly prized products.
Hours of work goes into a tiny piece, so it is quite expensive
- expect to pay from 200kn for a small piece direct from
the maker, or around 400kn for a mounted example from
a Zadar gallery (try the Lik gallery, see “Shopping”). But it
is a beautiful memento of your holiday, and your purchase
supports a vital cottage industry.
In the mid 15th century, the Venetians commissioned Juraj
Dalmatinac, Dalmatia’s most famous architect, to design
the island capital, Pag town. It has a planned symmetrical
layout, with a modest, drowsy feel. Walking through the
streets, you intimately feel the life that goes on inside the little
cottages, The town’s most striking church, St Mary’s, was
also designed by Dalmatinac. He combined a Romanesque
Dalmatian spirit with Renaissance and Gothic elements to
create a striking edifice. The town has a few other interesting
churches and palaces, wonderfully clean pebble beaches
and several good restaurants.
In the last few years, Pag has also built the reputation as
Croatia’s party island, and the place where it all happens
is the town of Novalja. Novalja, though not the capital, is
the island’s most populous settlement, and has most of its
facilities such as clinics and schools. A couple of kilometres
from town is an excellent Blue Flag beach, Zrće, where a
number of bars and clubs, including coastal versions of
some of Zagreb’s most famous names, have opened to
create Croatia’s answer to Ibiza. There are restaurants, ice
cream parlours, pools and more. It’s wildly popular. Because
of that, some might find it a bit too noisy and commercialised
in high season. But never fear, Pag has the longest coastline
Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com

of all Croatian islands (270km), and there are many places
where you can escape the crowds. Expect lunar landscapes,
white pebbles, crystal clear water and, on the north side of
the island, spectacular views over the Velebit peaks on the
mainland. One of our favourites is the Ručica beach near
Metajna - turn left at the wooden sign before the village, and
follow the road to the end. You’ll need to walk the last bit.
It’s wonderful to watch the sun go down, turning the rocks
pink as you sit on pristine white pebbles by the crystalline,
lagoon-calm sea.
Tourist information
�
Tourist Information Centre Vela ulica 18,
Pag, tel. (+385-23) 61 12 86, tzg-paga1@
zd.t-com.hr, www.tzgpag.hr.
Silba, Olib & Premuda
These small green islands with one village apiece, each
necklaced by sparkling-clean beaches, are well off the usual
tourist repertoire but easily accessible by boat from Zadar
(see “Getting around”).
Silba, despite having no cars, is the liveliest of the three, and
is favoured by artists so has a rather bohemian atmosphere.
The nightlife there is relaxed with great live music, including
jazz (of course), and a disco. Café Mik, by the church, plays
jazz (sometimes live sessions in the evenings), and has a
large space for art displays inside. Walk to the lovely gravelly
beaches with agaves accompanying your way, learn to
windsurf, rent a boat or (if you’re energetic enough) have a
game of tennis, basketball or volleyball. Although only 15km2,
Silba has 6 lovely small churches, some of them dating back
to the 17th century. Sadly, they are not in a great state of
repar. The island has an unusual monument - a 30m high
tower (known as the Toreta) built by one of the island’s sea
captains so that his wife could look out to sea and know when
he would return (and know when to get his dinner ready?).
Some people are a bit less cynical than us and see it as a
symbol of love.
Olib and Premuda are rather more sleepy. Like most
Dalmatian islands, sandy Olib has no water sources, but
unusually it has an undersea pipeline bringing Velebit’s
renowned pure water to the island. It also has many
pheasants and rabbits, which people run after with pop
guns. Some say Olib’s cheese is better than the more
famous one made on Pag, and the local wine and olive oil
are also great stuff. Olib has a lovely little fort, the remains
of a monastery, and five churches including the Church of
the Assumption of Mary, where you can see a document
written in the Glagolitic script - the alphabet in which Croatian
was first written.
zadar.inyourpocket.com
ZADAR COUNTY
Premuda is a superb place for diving enthusiasts - it has
an underwater cavern known as The Cathedral to explore,
and the wreckage of a ship, the St Istvan. Apart from that,
expect nothing other than true, idyllic island life: stone
houses, oleanders and bougainvilleas, olives and figs and
clean, clean shingle beaches. The perfect getaway.
Tourist information
�
Silba Tourist Board, tel. (+385-23) 37 00
10, tz.silba@zd.t-com.hr, www.silba.net.
Ugljan
That tower you see on the pinnacle on the island opposite
when you look from Zadar is St Michael’s Church, an easy hike
from the village of Preko on the island of Ugljan. The island’s
name comes from the Croatian word ulje, meaning oil - olive
oil production used to be one of the main activities here. The
gentle slopes facing Zadar are fertile, and there’s a pleasant
agricultural feel away from the coastal settlements - you’ll
see ladies walking along the road carrying the day’s harvest.
Kukljica is the main tourist development on Ugljan, and is
a great starting point for hiking and biking, a great way to
see the numerous historical sites on the island. There are
a number of routes outlined by the Tourist Board - call into
their office or check out the website below. A 15 minute walk
takes you to the other side of the island where you come to
excellent beaches at Sabuša and Jelenica, some of which
are sandy. The nearby cove of Kostanj also has a lovely
shallow beach and the 13th century Romanesque Church
of St Jerome (Sv. Jerolim) is nearby. Close to Kukljica is the
Zelena Punta (Green Cape) peninsula, a tourist settlement
where you’ll find a fantastic beach formed of a promenade
with deep shade from pine trees, super-clean water and
shingle and sand in the water. The islet of Ošljak is also
popular for bathing - two Jadrolinija ferries call here per day,
taking you to Zadar or Preko.
On August 5, Kukljica celebrates the festival of Our Lady of
the Snows - apparently it snowed once here in August - and
everybody complains about how bad the weather is these
days! A convoy of fishing boats travels ceremoniously to a
nearby church. The port of Kali also celebrates this occasion
- the townspeople are famous for being great fishermen, and
oddly enough, 90 percent of them went to Panama and still
can be seen fishing there to this day.
Kukljica Tourist Board Kukljica, tel. (+385-23) 37 32
76, kukljica@kukljica.hr, www.kukljica.hr.
Preko Tourist Board Magazin 8, Preko, tel. (+385-23)
28 61 08, tzpreko@preko.hr, www.preko.hr. Q June,
September Open 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00, July - August
31 Open 08:00 - 22:00.
Summer 2012
55

56 ZADAR COUNTY
Zaton
This small tourist town is a popular holiday destination for
many visitors and is located between the two historic cities
of Nin (2 km) and Zadar (13 km). It is the perfect escape
for a family holiday and action packed vacation because of
its great climate, preserved nature, the abundant sports
activities available (horse riding, water sports etc.) and for its
rich cultural and historical heritage. As summer nears, Zaton
springs to life and as history books would have it, remnants
of life and culture also existed in the area as far back as the
Bronze Age, over 4000 years ago. Throughout the Roman
period, Zaton was a port that was owned by Aenona (present
day Nin) and the town started to gradually develop towards
the end of the 17th century after the Turks had withdrawn
from the area. One of Zaton’s landmark symbols and a
frequent postcard motif is the Saint Nicholas Church, which
is situated on a small little hill in the middle of a field. It has
three circular bases and one rectangular niche as well as the
dome above its center. The church was built with traces of the
Romanic style from the end of the 11th and the beginning of
the 12th century. A watchtower was built on the dome during
the Turkish
wars. The
16th century
Kaštelin
Tower was built
as a defense
structure
a g a i n s t
potential
invaders. The
engraved Latin
inscription and
coat of arms
above the tower indicate that it was built by Hannibal
Cirysagus, in 1593. This is one of three towers raised
by the Venetians to defend Nin from Turkish raids. The
parish church in Zaton is sanctified to the Birth of the
Virgin Mary and was built in 1670, elongated in 1870, and
extended in the shape of the cross in 1969. The remains
of the Church of Saint Andrew is an extremely valuable
object from early Christian times (built in the 6th century)
which was, with various changes, used for cult purposes
until the 16th century. In addition to the historical buildings
and artifacts that encompass the area, visitors who are
looking for somewhere to stay can find something to
suit everyone’s taste
and budget. Zaton
is filled with private
accommodation
spots, well equipped
camps and apartment
hotels. The Zaton
Holiday Resort is a
famous tourist village
which is located in the
bay; it is secluded from
the wind and surrounded by beautiful pine forest. This truly
is an ideal place for an unforgettable and peaceful family
vacation whilst also making most of the numerous sporting
activities available including tennis, horse riding, cycling
and adventurous water activities. Beach facilities for the
disabled are also in place. The 1.5 km stretch of sandy and
pebbled shoreline is perfect for families with children. If you
are craving peace, an idyllic sunset, crystal clear waters with
a lush green backdrop, then Zaton is your answer to that
unforgettable dream getaway.
Tourist information
�
Zaton Holiday Resort Dražnikova 76t,
Zaton-Nin, tel. (+385-23) 28 02 80, sales.
dept@zaton.hr, www.zaton.hr.
Zaton Tourist Board Zadarska cesta 39a,
Zaton-Nin, tel. (+385-23) 26 54 61, zaton-zd@inet.
hr, www.zaton-zd.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00.
Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com

zadar.inyourpocket.com
ZADAR COUNTY
Summer 2012
57

58 ZADAR COUNTY
Nin
Embark on a journey where the two small tourist places of
Nin and Zaton will surely amaze you with their anecdotes
of history, buildings, artefacts and natural surroundings.
Located a mere14 kilometres north of Zadar, these Adriatic
gems have their very own story to tell.
The region of Nin has been inhabited for over a staggering
three thousand years. It was initially founded by the Illyrians
who named the area Aenona. When the Romans gained
control, the town had flourished as it was an important
harbour in the Eastern Adriatic Sea - the growth and
development of import, export and migration attracted
merchants and other settlers to the area.
The beauty of Nin and neighbouring Zaton is twofold.
Visitors are immersed in the historical treasures of
the tourist places whilst also fulfilling the true holiday
experience of picturesque beaches and breathtaking
surroundings.
The historical town of Nin is situated in the middle of a
shallow lagoon, whilst the historical part of the town is
located on a small island that has a 500 metre radius.
Visitors can enter the old town via one of two bridges
which lead to the blissfully preserved historical city gates.
The arched gates are the steppingstone to a sightseeing
tour of the city walls and the many valuable and historical
monuments.
Some of the archeological highlights include two original
and reconstructed old Croatian ships ‘Condura Croatica’,
(11th Century) that were found at the entrance to the
harbour, the ruins to the biggest Roman Temple (from
the 1st century) on this side of the Adriatic, the gothic
chapel of Saint Marcela and the pre-Romanic Church of
the Holy Cross (9th century) which is also known to be
the smallest cathedral in the world. The gold and silver
of the town as well as the historical treasures provide for
a feast of culture.
The other attractions that Nin and Zaton boast are
their long sandy beaches which are perfect for that
summer holiday. The blue sky waters are striking and the
accommodation on offer includes hotels, nicely decorated
apartments, holiday villas and small idyllic camps.
A hidden advantage that entices many to this region is the
‘Nin Curing Mud Peloid’ which has been used for medical
purposes since the Roman times. Supervised medical
personnel assist visitors and patients with therapy.
The curing mud effect can be seen through its medical,
Biograd
The small but lively town of Biograd was once an important
political centre of the Croatian state and the seat of kings.
Croatia’s crowned heads of the Middle Ages were peripatetic
- travelling throughout their territories between their power
bases - often smaller towns, since larger cities such as Zadar
functioned almost as individual states. Biograd was one of
these royal towns, as was Nin. One of the most important
moments in Biograd’s history was the coronation of Koloman
as Croat-Hungarian king in 1102 - the first time that the
states of Croatia and Hungary were joined under a single
crowned head - this time, by treaty.
You can still see evidence of this proud yesteryear in
Biograd’s pleasant old centre: an obelisk bearing the date
925, the date of the coronation of Tomislav, the first true
Croatian king and a figure with almost mythical status. It was
he who united Pannonia and Dalmatia into a single Croatian
state and built the country into a military power rivalling
Venice. The 11th century Basilica of St John was one of the
few buildings which escaped after the Venetians attacked
mechanical and chemical effect. The therapy is performed
in a cosy natural environment and it includes bathing and
swimming in warm sea water.
As you wander through Nin or Zaton, you’ll find that nothing
much has changed over the years; ancient buildings built
from Dalmatian Stone still stand in their purest form. What
visitors cherish the most are these magnificent historical
structures entwined with the natural ambience of mothernature
that provides the perfect getaway.
We recommend that you visit:
Park Solana Nin, Ilirska cesta 7, tel. (+385-23) 26
47 64. Open 08:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Admission 35kn.
Dar Mar Donkey Farm, Poljica 2a, Žerava, tel.
(+385-23) 39 01 23, 098 180 51 71. Admission 10kn.
Nin Tourist Board Trg braće Radića 3, Nin, tel.
(+385-23) 26 52 47/(+385-23) 26 42 80, tzg-nina@
zd.t-com.hr, www.nin.hr.
The Nin Salt Works Museum and Shop Ilirska cesta 7.
Dating back from the Roman times, this lagoon is filled
with the essential elements that have seen the production
of salt continue according to traditional methods unto
this day. The museum offers displays, exhibits and
multimedia and visitors can walk through the salt fields
which are packed with diverse flora and fauna (280 bird
species). Q Open 08:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Closed
Sun. Admission free.
Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com

Biograd in 1125. There is an early Romanesque Church of
St Anthony (13th century), the Church of St Rocco (16th
century), and the imposing Church of St Anastasia (Sveta
Stošija) built in 1761, with a fine clock tower, a decorative
well in front and baroque altars inside.
Fans of history should visit the Homeland Museum, which
has archaeological, ethnographic and art collections, and
presents a fascinating picture of the town’s colourful and
turbulent past. It’s at Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV
20, tel. (+385-23) 38 37 21. Open 07:00-15:00, 19:00-
22:00. Sat 09:00 - 12:00, 19:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.
Admission 10 kn.
Biograd is, however, far more than a destination for history
nuts. The old centre is picturesquely laid out on a peninsula
with a view over Pašman Island, which you can reach by the
ferry which leaves from the town quay. Pleasant seaside
promenades are lined with cafes and palms, and are
attractively planted with lawns and flowerbeds. To the east
of the centre is a large pine
forest, within which you can
find the tennis centre. The
pebbly Blue Flag Dražica
beach is just a ten minute
walk from the old town.
Voted one of Croatia’s best
beaches, it’s isolated from
traffic but has a car park. You
can take part in watersports,
and there’s an aquagun and a
host of other amenities.
The pinewoods extend
further, providing a healthy
and scented environment
with a number of campsites,
hotels and apartment
complexes. A coast path
through them leads you past more beaches. Some, such as
Soline, are shallow and partly sandy, so particularly suitable
for children. Be aware that some of the more secluded
beaches along the coastline here are “clothing optional”,
while at Crvena Luka you’ll find a proper FKK naturist beach.
Crvena Luka is a deep bay with a holiday village behind.
zadar.inyourpocket.com
ZADAR COUNTY
Lake Vrana
Apart from the aforementioned tennis centre, Biograd is well
equipped with diving centres, and is a gentle place to learn to
windsurf. You’ll also find many opportunities to try your hand
at waterskiing. Another activity we can recommend is a bike
route which takes you from Kumenat (a neighbourhood just
east of the centre) through Crvena Luka, Pakoštane (a nearby
resort) and to Lake Vrana (Vransko jezero). This lake, just
south of Biograd, provided the water supply for Zadar since
Roman times, and is a pristine Nature Park, with a rich stock
of birds and aquatic life. As such, it’s a mecca for fishing and
birdwatching. The land there is very flat, so it’s perfect terrain
for biking - it’s encircled by a 30km bike trail, which gets
more hilly and interesting to the north of the lake. There’s a
peaceful campsite which has a great fish restaurant. It’s a
nice break from the hubbub of the coast.
Other trips you can take are a boat to the islet of Saint
Katherine, just a hop away from Biograd’s shores. There’s
an old lighthouse there and it’s great for bathing. Ask your
host if they can arrange for a day trip for you. And a highlight
of the entire Zadar region must surely be the Kornati
archipelago lying scattered beyond the island of Pašman.
Kornati is one of the most spectacular sights in Croatia, and
dare we say, Europe.
Tourist information
�
Biograd n/m Tourist Board Trg
hrvatskih velikana 2, tel. (+385-23)
38 31 23/(+385-23) 38 53 82, info@
tzg-biograd.hr, www.tzg-biograd.hr.
Information on activites and trips,
and maps of the area. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun
08:00 - 12:00.
Vransko jezero Nature Park Kralja Petra Svačića
2, Biograd, tel. (+385-23) 38 31 81, pp-vranskojezero@zd.t-com.hr,
www.vransko-jezero.hr. Q Open
08:00 - 16:00.Closed Sat, Sun. The scheduled working
hours refer to Park Management only; entry to the Park
leading to Lake Vransko and its surroundings is open to
visitors all day which includes weekends.
Summer 2012
59

60 ZADAR COUNTY
Ancient Churches and Castles of
Zadar County
Like other regions of Croatia, Zadar County has a myriad
of spectacular and fascinating castle ruins and ancient
churches. Because it was the heart of the medieval Croatian
kingdom, a key trading post and militarily important in
controlling the northern Adriatic Sea, this region is particularly
rich in castles and history. For millennia, the area that is
now Zadar County has been the front line in the struggles
between various empires and ethnic groups: the Romans
vs. the Visigoths, the Venetians vs. the Turks, the French vs.
the Austro-Hungarians and most recently the Serbs vs. the
Croats. Fortunately for the modern visitor, the only struggle
these days is deciding where to go sightseeing first! The sea,
hilly islands and Velebit mountains add a dramatic backdrop
to ancient buildings.
If one starts in Zadar and proceeds on a clockwise circuit
of the county, the first notable town encountered is Nin, 16
kilometers north of Zadar on Route 306. It has the oldest
church in Croatia, the tiny, Romanesque Church of the
Holy Cross (Crkva svetog Križa). An inscription on the lintel
is dated 800 A.D. On the south side of Nin, just outside the
town, is another tiny church, St. Nicholas’s (Crkva svetog
Nikole), which was built in the 11th century. Located on an
ancient burial mound, it’s easy to spot. When the Ottoman
Turks occupied this area in the mid-16th century they
refortified St. Nicholas, adding the crenellated top. It makes
the church look like a miniature castle. After the Venetians
drove the Turks out in the following century, St. Nicholas
was refortified again.
There are several spectacular castle ruins in Zadar County.
Starigrad Ljubač, 15 kilometers due north of Zadar City, lies
on a cliff above the sea and has a commanding view of Pag
Island to the north. Templar knights are believed to have built
Ljubač in the 13th century. The castle provided them with a
clear view of anyone approaching by sea from the north or
west. When the Turks invaded in the 16th century, the local
inhabitants took shelter there. Later the castle featured
prominently in battles between the Turks and the Venetians.
As is usually the case, there are no signs indicating the way
to this site. To reach Ljubač turn right at the Sonik grocery
store in the middle of the village. Go 1.2 km up that road,
then turn left (north) on a dirt road at the first giant antenna
at the top of the hill. Follow that dirt road to Ljubač. It’s about
a 45 minutes walk on undulating terrain. It’s not advisable
to drive unless you have a sport utility vehicle, in which it
would take 15 - 20 minutes. Not too far from Ljubač, on the
southern tip of Pag, is another precariously situated castle
fortress called Fortica. Built by the Venetians in the 16th
century, it’s just below the bridge from the mainland to Pag,
guarding the strait below. It matches the color of Pag’s barren
landscape. You can easily reach the Fortica from Ljubač.
The two are visible from each other, making one speculate
what rivalries or alliances between their occupants might
have existed over the centuries. Alternatively, you can get
to Fortica by going north towards the town of Pag on route
106 from the Posedarje exit on the A1 motorway. Novigrad
(literally “New Town”, somewhat of a misnomer), a castle
ruin perched on a hill above the town of the same name,
also has had a turbulent history. The Romans, and before
them, the Liburnians, built forts on the same spot. Some of
the walls date from Roman times, but Novigrad has been
modernized. It has several restaurants and cafes right on
the water, offering nice views of the harbor. Located 31 km
east of Zadar via route 502, Novigrad has been the front
line in several conflicts. During dynasty wars (1385-1387)
in what is now Croatia, two woman of royalty, Mary, the wife
of Croatian-Hungarian King Sigismund Luxemberg, and her
mother, Elizabeth, were murdered there. During the Kandian
Wars (1645-1669) it was an important point of Venice’s
defense against the Turks, who occupied the town during
1646-47. When the Venetians retook the town the castle
was substantially destroyed. During the more recent war of
1991-1995 after the break up of Yugoslavia, the Serbs also
held the town for two years. There is another spectacular
view of the modern day town and the sea from the ruins,
which are accessible from several trails. The easiest to find
(again, no signs!) starts from the top of some wide stairs that
ascend from the east side of town. Go right at the top of the
stairs and then left after about 10 meters. It takes around
10 - 15 minutes to reach the castle. Obrovac is another
hill top castle/fortress above a modern day town of the
same name. You can reach this small town easily from the
Maslenica exit on the main Zagreb - Split highway, A1. There
are plenty of eateries and cafes in Obrovac. It takes about
10-15 minutes to ascend the steep hill from the middle of
town to the castle. The stately Velebit
Mountains loom in the distance. Obrovac was built atop a
Roman settlement called Clambeta. The Kurjaković noble
family occupied the castle from the 14th century until the
Turks captured Obrovac in 1527. During the Kandian Wars
the Venetians overran the town, but the Turks reoccupied
it on the basis of a treaty ending that conflict. Forces under
the command of Zadar nobleman, Šimun Bortolazzi, liberated
Obrovac from the Turks in 1699. Like Novigrad, the Serbs
captured Obrovac in 1991 and exiled all the Croats. The
Serbs withdrew in 1995. Happily, in the town there is very little
evidence left of that modern conflict. There are two castles
worth exploring in the town of Benkovac, which is 28 km
south of Obrovac on routes 502 and 27. There is a Benkovac
exit off the Zagreb - Split highway. Benkovac is a sizable town
Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com

with several restaurants and taverns. The Croatian family,
Benković, built Benkovac Castle, which has been nicely
restored. It’s on a low hill on the east side of town. Benkovac
has undergone occupation by a succession of armies and
governments. The Venetians took over the town in the 15th
century. Then the Turks captured Benkovac in 1527. They
held it until 1683. Next, the Morlacs, a mountain tribe, took
over. It became a rural county district under the French
in 1811 and the Austrians in 1847. The Serbs occupied
this town as well for a time during the 1991 - 1995 “Great
Patriotic War”. The other castle in Benkovac is Kličevac, a
well-preserved ruin. Even the roof of its main tower is intact,
a rarity for castle ruins. There is an excellent view of Kličevac
to the east (right) from
a bridge at kilometer marker 276 on the north bound side
of the Zagreb - Split highway. That view will entice you, but
it is not possible to reach the site from there. You need
to drive about 2 kilometers west from Benkovac on route
56. You will see a one lane, macadam road going up to the
left and across railroad tracks. The road leads to a private
homestead on the edge of a flat, cleared, gravel area. When
the road curves sharply to the right you should turn left and
cross the cleared area towards some pine forest. A gravel
track runs along the south end of and then into the woods. At
a dip in the track take the right fork. Follow this track (ignore
others) and after about 100 meters you will head down and
see the castle through the trees. Perched on the edge of a
stony ravine, it is an impressive sight! Be sure to take a peek
through the tower door to get a glimpse of the intact roof.
Feudal lords of the Kurjaković family built Kličevac at the end
of the 14th century on a cliff above the Kličevica River. An
extension was constructed in the 15th century. Kličevac’s
inaccessibility did not prevent the Turks from capturing it in
the early 16th century. Several senior Turkish government
officials occupied the castle over the next 150 years. Cont
inuing on our counterclockwise circuit of castles in Zadar
County, Starigrad (“Old Town”) Vrana lies 11 kilometers
south o f Benkovac via a secondary, but paved road. The
modern day village of the same name surrounds the ancient,
ruined, walled town. Much of the town walls remain, and the
remains of a church are clearly discernable.
Vrana also has had a turbulent history. Originally it was a
Roman settlement called Blandona. In the Middle Ages it was
a Benedictine monastery, but the Holy See gave the town
to the Templar knights in the 12th century. In 1312 Vrana
came into the possession of the Templars’ rivals, the Knights
Hospitaller, who served not only as combatants but also as
Climbing
The Paklenica National Park is an excellent choice for
climbers. Stunning karst landscapes, rich flora and
fauna and innumerable torrents combine to create a little
piece of heaven. Add to that some challenging climbs
on smooth rock and days bathed in brilliant sunshine
overlooking the sea, and you’re sold (or at least we are).
There is a 40km mountaineering trail, which takes about
2 days to travel. See peaks over 1600m high, steepsided
canyons, creeks with pools and waterfalls and
water so clean you can drink it - it tastes great. Famous
peak Anića Kuk has a challenging smooth 400m high
cliff which attracts the greatest number of climbers. One
of the most beautiful mountain refuges is Vlaški Grad at
1260m. There are a great number of routes for hikers,
climbers and mountain bikers. The Paklenica National
Park authorities can provide you with full lists. Also
check out www.summitpost.org for excellent pictures,
information and advice.
Paklenica National Park Dr.F.Tuđmana 14a,
Starigrad - Paklenica, tel. (+385-23) 36 92 02/
(+385-23) 36 91 55, np-paklenica@zd.t-com.hr,
www.paklenica.hr.
zadar.inyourpocket.com
ZADAR COUNTY
medics in the Crusades. For two centuries Vrana’s prior was
wealthy and influential, owning 40 other monasteries in the
region. As with nearby towns, the Turks overran Vrana in the
early 16th century. A Turkish military commander, one Alibeg
Atlagić, re-fortified the town. When the Venetians captured
Vrana and evicted the Turks in 1647, they destroyed much of
the town’s fortifications. If you are feeling adventurous, take
a ferry from Zadar to Preko on the island of Ugljan, a journey
of 20 minutes. About three kilometers from the ferry pier is
the castle fortress of Saint Michael (“Sveti Mihovil”). It is
perched on the highest point of the island (265 meters) and
there are spectacular views in every direction, particularly of
Iž Island and Dugi Otok (“Long Island”) to the west, but also
Zadar to the east and countless Adriatic islands to the south.
When you drive up from the ferry pier, turn right on the main
road. After a kilometer or so take the narrow but well paved
road that leads up to the west (left). There is a sign pointing
the way to the castle (will wonders never cease!?). You can
drive all the way, but there are several walking trails that
ascend to the summit, too. Various monasteries were located
at Sv. Mihovil beginning in the 10th century. The Venetians
fortified Mihovil in the 13th century as an observation post.
Because the site is so advantageous for this purpose, the
Serbs shelled Sv. Mihovil in 1991. This is one place that the
Turks did not succeed in capturing. Unfortunately, now a
communications tower inside the walls of the castle mars
the atmosphere somewhat. Nevertheless, this ruin is worth
visiting because of the great views. As you travel around the
county you may observe other hilltop ruins. There are many
more, but those described above are the largest and most
spectacular. The fact that they were built for military reasons
and changed hands so many times reflects the strategic
importance of the Zadar area through the millennia.
Crvena Luka is a deep bay with a holiday village behind.
Tourist information
�
Benkovac Tourist Board Ante
Starčevića 2b, Benkovac, tel. (+385-
23) 68 18 34, tzg-benkovac@zd.tcom.hr,
www.tz-benkovac.hr. www.
benkovac-bastina.net - a website with
pictures of Benkovac’s cultural and historical heritage.
Paklenica National Park
The Paklenica National Park lies just north of Zadar
within the Velebit mountain range. Two streams, the
Velika and Mala Paklenica, carve their way through
the soft limestone leaving gorges with cliffs up to 400m
high, and fascinating rock formations characteristic of
karst territory. The scenery is incredible: the interior is
unexpectedly lush due to large quantities of pure spring
water, allowing dense forests and lush meadows to
flourish. Local residents include the rare Griffon vulture,
sparrowhawks, chamois, wild boar, brown bears, wolves
and lynx.
The park is a favourite destination for hikers and climbers.
Over 150 km of hiking trails include the walk from the
park entrance through the Velika Paklenica Canyon to the
Paklenica Mountain Hut (about 2 hours), though there are
many more demanding routes. The park administration
publishes excellent maps. Mountain hut accommodation
is available - reserve in advance on (+385-23) 30 16
36 or e-mail: pd.paklenica@zd.htnet.hr. There is also a
campsite with a beach (prices are on www.paklenica.hr ).
Starigrad, the town at the park’s entrance, has excellent
pebble beaches and a number of restaurants that offers
dalmatian specialities.
Summer 2012
61

Alesandra Paravije B-3
Ante Kuzmanića E-3,4
Bana Josipa Jelačića D-1
Bartula Kašića D-3/E-3
Bedemi zadarskih pobuna
A,B,C,D-2
Benedikte Braun M-5
Bijanchinija K-5/B-3
Biskupa Jurja Divnića K-5/B-2
Blaža Jurjeva L-6/C-3
Borelli L-6/C-3
Božidara Petranovića K-6/A-3
Braće Bersa K-6/A-3
Braće Bilšić K-6/A-3
Braće Vranjanin L-6/C-3
Brne Karnarutića K,L-5/C-2
Brodarska K-4/L-4/C-1
Ćirila Ivekovića L-6/C-4
Dalmatinskog Sabora L-5,6
Dinarska J-4
Don Ive Prodana L-5,6/D-3
Đure Sudete J-3,4
Elizabete Kotromanić L-6/D-3
Forum K-6/C-3
Foša L-6/D,E-4
Fra Donata Fabijanića K-6/A,B-3
Fra Šimuna Klimantovića L-6/D-4
Franje iz Milana L-6/D-4
Frederica Grisogona L-5/D-2
Grge Oštrića J-4
Grgura Mrganića K-6/B-3
Grigora Viteza L-3
Hrvoja Hrvatinića Vukčića L-6/C-2
Ilije Smiljanića L-5,6/D-3
Istarska Obala J-5,6/A-3
Ivana Brkanovića L-4,5/C-1
Ivana Bršića K-5
Ivana Danila K-6/A-3
Ivana Mažuranića K-4,5/B,C-1
Ivana Meštrovića K-3,4
Jakše Čedomila-Čuke K-5/B-3
Jerolima Vidulića K-6/B-3
Josipa Jurja Strossmayera L-4
Jurja Barakovića L-5/D-2,3
Jurja Bijankinija K-6/B-3
Jurja Dalmatinca Matejeva L-5/C-3
Kazališni prolaz C-3
Knezova Šubića Bribirskih F-6
Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira M-6
Kraljskog Dalmatina L-6/C-3
Krešimira Čošića M-6
Krešimirova obala B-4
Liburnska obala K-5/B-2
Luke Jelića K-6/A-3
Lukoranska K-4
Majke Margarite L-6/C-3
Mateja Bošnjaka K-5/B-2
Madijevaca K,L-6/C-3
Među bedemima M-6
Mihe Klaića L-6/D-3
Mihovila Pavlinovića L-6/C,D-4
Miroslava Krleže J,K-4
N. Nikole Matafara K-5/B-3
Narodni trg L-6/C,D-3
Narodnog lista L-5/D-2
Obala kneza Branimira K,L-5/C-1
Obala kneza Trpimira K-5/A,B,C,D-1
Obala k. P. Krešimira IV K,L-6/B,D-4
Obala kralja Tomislava L,M-5/D-2
Oko vrulja K-4
Perivoj Jarula L,M-5/D,E-2
Perivoj k. J.-Madijevke L,M-6/D,E-3
Perivoj Vladimira Nazora M-5,6/E-3
Pod bedemom K,L-5/C-2
Poljana Natka Nodila K-5/B-2
Poljana Šime Budinića C-6/D-3
Poljanska L,M-3
Pravdonoše K-5/B-2
Prečac Nikole Jakšića K-4
Prečka L-3
Prilaz hrvatske čitaonice K-6
Prokonzula Grgura K-5,6/B-2,3
Put Dikla G,J-3
Put Šimunova L,M-3,4
Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com

Rafaela Levakovića L-6/D-4 Trg Petra Zoranića L-6/D-3
Ravnice M-6 Trg sv. Frane K-6/A-3
Rikarda Jeretova Katalinića L-5/C-1 Trg sv. Krševana K-5/B,C-2
Ruđera Boškovića L-6/D-3,4 Trg sv. Stošije K-6/B-3
Sirac L-6/D-4 Trg tri bunara K-5/A-3
Slavoljuba Penkale K-4 Ulica BoreLli L-6/C-3
Stara Voštarnica L-5/C-1 Varoška L-6/C,D-3
Stomorica L-6/C-3,4 Vatroslava Lisinskog J,K-3,4
Stube Slavoljuba Penkale K-4 Velebitska L-4,5/D-1
Sv. Nediljice L-6/C-4 Veslačka L-4,5/D-1
Šime Ljubavca L-6/D-4 Vjekoslava Maštrovića J-4
Šime Ljubića L-6/D-4 Vladimira Papafave K-6/A,B-3
Šime Vitasovića L-5/D-2,3 Voštarnica L-4
Šimuna Benje Kožičića K-5/B-2,3 Vrata sv. Kršovana K-5
Široka ulica K,L-6/B,C-3 Vrata sv. Roka K-5
Špire Brusine L-6/D-3 Zadarskog mira K-6
Tanzlingera Zanottija K-6/B-3 Zlatarska L-5/C-2
Trg opatice Čike B-3 Zore dalmatinske L-6/C-3
Trg pet bunara L-6/D-3 Zrinsko-Frankopanska M-5
www.inyourpocket.com
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2012