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FLORIAN - The Most Traveled Man on Earth

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already so naughty [p 2], that he gives all the indicati<strong>on</strong>s that he will <strong>on</strong>e day go to the<br />

gallows. 13<br />

Saturday, 26 th [November, 1808]. We haven’t stopped. <str<strong>on</strong>g>The</str<strong>on</strong>g> weather is calm and<br />

beautiful, rather mild for the seas<strong>on</strong>. This morning we saw people going to meet the<br />

market and we arranged to buy several provisi<strong>on</strong>s from them. We went to a farm<br />

maintained by a Dutch family. Everything breathed prosperity and cleanliness. <str<strong>on</strong>g>The</str<strong>on</strong>g> milk<br />

was exquisite. <str<strong>on</strong>g>The</str<strong>on</strong>g>y sold us excellent hams of fallow deer. Every day the rowboat is sent<br />

to the land to look for wood. Today this almost involved us in a rather serious quarrel.<br />

Our men took some wood that had been cut up <strong>on</strong> the side of the river bank. <str<strong>on</strong>g>The</str<strong>on</strong>g> owner<br />

showed up with a carbine and I saw in an instant what was about to be enkindled. A<br />

piaster re-established peace.<br />

In the afterno<strong>on</strong> we passed in fr<strong>on</strong>t of Galliopolis, a settlement originally established by<br />

Frenchmen. Very little of it is left. <str<strong>on</strong>g>The</str<strong>on</strong>g>y aband<strong>on</strong>ed both sides of the Ohio to go settle in<br />

Illinois.<br />

Sunday, 27 th [November, 1808; c<strong>on</strong>tinuati<strong>on</strong> of the same letter]. This morning we<br />

purchased a wild turkey from a peasant for a quarter of a piaster, and his passage with us<br />

as far as the mouth of the Scioto. This river waters some magnificent country in the state<br />

of Ohio and boats go up more than 200 miles from the c<strong>on</strong>fluence. Two little towns,<br />

Portsmouth and Alexandria, are situated <strong>on</strong> each side of the mouth. It was here that for<br />

the first time we enjoyed a pretty view of the river. Up to now, it has been c<strong>on</strong>stantly<br />

hemmed in between chains of hills which stretch out for a mile from the river bank,<br />

covered with trees as are the lowlands which at times form narrow bands between the<br />

hills and the river. <str<strong>on</strong>g>The</str<strong>on</strong>g> latter appears as but an expanse of water, a bit rapid, flowing<br />

between forests denuded of foliage and [where] the earth is covered with dry leaves<br />

[which] saddens the glance with its somber m<strong>on</strong>ot<strong>on</strong>y. Near the mouth of the Scioto <strong>on</strong>e<br />

begins to see hills farther away rising behind <strong>on</strong>e another, in different colors. For the first<br />

time <strong>on</strong>e has a perspective.<br />

M<strong>on</strong>day, 28 th [November 1808]. We wanted to stop at Limest<strong>on</strong>e. <str<strong>on</strong>g>The</str<strong>on</strong>g> night was dark<br />

and for fear of missing it we landed in some fashi<strong>on</strong> or other and not without risk<br />

between trees whose feet were bathed by the current. Fortunately, at daylight we found<br />

ourselves a mile above the town but <strong>on</strong> the opposite side. We were barely able to land,<br />

13 Blennerhasset’s Island undoubtedly refers to the island of Harman Blennerhasset, who emigrated from<br />

Ireland to the US in 1796, and who created a small Eden <strong>on</strong> his island in the Ohio River, with a huge<br />

mansi<strong>on</strong>, library, musical instruments, and fine food. He played a major role in the c<strong>on</strong>spiracy trial of<br />

former Vice President Aar<strong>on</strong> Burr, because Burr visited the island in 1805, and discussed his plans to seize<br />

Spanish and perhaps other western territory. Blennerhasset later wrote a letter to Burr agreeing to support<br />

Burr’s ambitious plans. In the fall of 1806 US officials including President Jeffers<strong>on</strong> became aware of the<br />

c<strong>on</strong>spiracy and sent the state militia to seize the island and Blennerhasset. <str<strong>on</strong>g>The</str<strong>on</strong>g> militia sacked the mansi<strong>on</strong><br />

and seized eleven “invasi<strong>on</strong>” craft, while Blennerhasset fled. Blenerhasset claimed that these were craft for<br />

settlers, not invaders. Blennerhasset was later tried, but like Burr, escaped c<strong>on</strong>victi<strong>on</strong>. He moved to<br />

Canada and died in Guernsey in poverty in 1831. He reportedly sold the island in 1807, before Jean-<br />

Baptiste arrived, so perhaps J-B did not actually go ashore and meet him, but heard stories about him.<br />

Sadly, the mansi<strong>on</strong> burned in 1811. However, it has been re-created as a state park, and can be visited<br />

during the summer.<br />

42

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