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FLORIAN - The Most Traveled Man on Earth

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Letter 8.<br />

[Lancaster, PA] November 2, 1808<br />

[From Jean-Baptiste Florian to Laura Eugenie Florian, later Bowers (1791-1857), the first<br />

daughter of Jean-Baptiste; she is apparently in England]<br />

I left Philadelphia yesterday morning at 5 o’clock, as I told you in my last letter, my dear<br />

Laura. I arrived at Lancaster about 4 o’clock in the afterno<strong>on</strong>, a distance of 62 miles.<br />

We stopped almost two hours en route to eat, so you see that <strong>on</strong>e travels by public carrier<br />

as fast as in England. <str<strong>on</strong>g>The</str<strong>on</strong>g> road is a bit rough, being made of a very hard rock which they<br />

break up with an ir<strong>on</strong> club into pieces as thick as <strong>on</strong>e’s fist.<br />

<str<strong>on</strong>g>The</str<strong>on</strong>g> country is beautifully cultivated. <str<strong>on</strong>g>The</str<strong>on</strong>g> <strong>on</strong>ly woods <strong>on</strong>e sees are those needed for<br />

c<strong>on</strong>sumpti<strong>on</strong>. <str<strong>on</strong>g>The</str<strong>on</strong>g>y d<strong>on</strong>’t burn anything else. In all the country and even in Philadelphia<br />

they use coal very little. As far as the eye can see <strong>on</strong> both sides of the road <strong>on</strong>e sees<br />

farmhouses well built of st<strong>on</strong>e or brick. Orchards of apples and peaches, fields of wheat,<br />

of corn, of clover. <str<strong>on</strong>g>The</str<strong>on</strong>g> country is cut by valleys and hills of medium height ________<br />

and three or four pretty streams not very deep in which flow limpid waters over a bed of<br />

pebbles. It is in the middle of this rich and flourishing countryside that Lancaster is<br />

situated, a pretty market town which c<strong>on</strong>tains 800 inhabitants. Almost all of them have a<br />

store or stand, and the majority are of German origin, as are the farmers everywhere<br />

around. <str<strong>on</strong>g>The</str<strong>on</strong>g> signs <strong>on</strong> the stores and the printed advertisements, are always in English and<br />

German, and the inscripti<strong>on</strong>s <strong>on</strong> the gravest<strong>on</strong>es frequently are in the first language <strong>on</strong>ly.<br />

I was struck by the number of apothecary shops and arms factories. One would say that<br />

here more than elsewhere men like to take care of their existence and destroy that of<br />

others.<br />

<str<strong>on</strong>g>The</str<strong>on</strong>g>y give balls here frequently during the winter. <str<strong>on</strong>g>The</str<strong>on</strong>g>y print an Almanac ________.<br />

Lancaster is the capital of the province. <str<strong>on</strong>g>The</str<strong>on</strong>g> houses are very well built of brick, the<br />

streets wide and straight as an arrow, cutting each other at right angles. <str<strong>on</strong>g>The</str<strong>on</strong>g> inn where<br />

we are staying c<strong>on</strong>cedes nothing to those of England. <str<strong>on</strong>g>The</str<strong>on</strong>g> _______ is less abundant than<br />

in Philadelphia and New York, as well as the fish and game, the poultry and fats meats<br />

excellent. It costs much less to live here. Our dinner yesterday <strong>on</strong>ly cost half a piaster<br />

per head (about 2-3 Sterling) and still we ha between four of us a half bottle of very good<br />

Madiera wine and a quart of French cognac. I have had occasi<strong>on</strong> to admire the sobriety<br />

of Americans. Two of the invited pers<strong>on</strong>s c<strong>on</strong>tented themselves with two small glasses<br />

and we left at least three glasses in the half bottle of wine, and almost half of the cognac.<br />

Thus they are c<strong>on</strong>strained by themselves to drink to their own advantage. I had already<br />

notices the same thing in Philadelphia, as ordinary at the hotel of Mr. Arch and Mr. Call,<br />

director of the bank, where I dined M<strong>on</strong>day. It is not thus in New York, where English<br />

mores prevail very much.<br />

<str<strong>on</strong>g>The</str<strong>on</strong>g>y make a beautiful wool cloth here, almost as _______ and as velvety as that which<br />

the English call Angora [?], and a beautiful grey, but it is very expensive. <str<strong>on</strong>g>The</str<strong>on</strong>g>y asked me<br />

<strong>on</strong>e piaster – 70 cents [p 2] (about seven shillings and six pence). Factories rise up <strong>on</strong><br />

33

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