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From one China to another* 5<br />

stops and looks at a bundle of material at his feet. In China, you know, when a child dies,<br />

it is wrapped in a red sheet and abandoned during the night in a corner. In the morning,<br />

the refuse carts take it off to the communal grave. And there is Barrès, quite moved. How<br />

could he fail to be moved by this quaint custom? And what pure artistic pleasure he takes<br />

looking at these little scarlet marks, which, lively and bright, set off the grey of the dawn.<br />

Nearby someone has left a dead cat. A dead cat, a dead kid: two little souls, two little<br />

ripples. Barrès brings them together in the same funeral orison and then moves on to<br />

more distinguished comparisons. At that same hour perhaps, wrapped in purple silk, the<br />

beautiful, warm body of a concubine is being carried to the imperial bed. A small warm<br />

body, a small cold body; on each of them, the same bloodstain. And there we are: blood,<br />

voluptuousness, death. Lucky Barrès; he in turn died, taking to the grave the secret of a<br />

clear conscience. We, however, have seen children die like rats in the bombing raids or<br />

the Nazi concentration camps; when, against a splendid backdrop of red earth and palm<br />

trees, we are shown flies eating the eyes of new-born babies, we look away with a guilty<br />

conscience. Try and explain that! One day, in a back-street of Naples, the stable door of a<br />

dark cavern opened; on a huge double bed a tiny, lost, six-month-old baby was lying; it<br />

appeared made-up, its face wrinkled like a piece of cloth. It could easily have been<br />

mistaken for the 90-year-old cardinal who had said mass at Saint Peter’s on the previous<br />

Sunday. The baby was dead. Seeing this indiscreetly displayed Neapolitan death once<br />

was enough for me. I feel incapable of appreciating fully the poetic shrouds of the poor<br />

Chinese babies; I look through them and make out a wrinkled face, too young even to be<br />

childlike. We must have become insensitive: the thought of evoking the silk shawl, the<br />

silky skin of the beautiful Tseu-hi does not cross our minds. We content ourselves with<br />

thinking that we must prevent children from dying. And before this murdered infant,<br />

rejected waste of the Kuomintang, we wish for the victory of the Eighth Army. This<br />

album is an announcement; it announces the end of tourism. It gently teaches us, without<br />

useless pathos, that poverty has lost its picturesque quality and will never recover it.<br />

Poverty is there, however, unbearable and discreet. On every page it manifests itself, in<br />

three elementary actions: carrying, scavenging, pilfering.<br />

In all the capitals of poverty, the poor carry bundles. They always keep them close by.<br />

When they sit down, they place them by their side and watch over them. What do they<br />

put in them? Everything: wood gathered in a park, hastily, crusts of bread, bits of wire<br />

pulled off a fence, scraps of cloth. If the bundle is too heavy, they drag it along, in<br />

wheelbarrows or handcarts. Poverty always seems to be doing a moonlight flit. In Peking,<br />

Shanghai, Nanking everyone is pulling or pushing: here men are straining to make their<br />

cart go forward; there they are on a bridge; the road climbs; they must struggle twice as<br />

hard; there are urchins about, always ready to help for a hand-out. Like the unemployed<br />

man in Deux Sous d’Espoir who positions himself halfway up a hill and pulls the carriage<br />

horses by the bridle. The tall building in the background is a lighthouse. At the top of the<br />

lighthouse is the eye of the West; its revolving gaze sweeps across China. The top three<br />

levels have been reserved for foreign press correspondents. How high up they are! Much<br />

too high to see what is happening down below. They dance high in the sky with their<br />

wives and mistresses. Meanwhile, at ground level, the porters push their carts and Chiang<br />

Kai-shek is being defeated by the communist armies. The Americans see neither the little<br />

flat dwellings of China nor the armed peasants nor the porters. Yet the porters have only

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