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Dorothée Salat owner<br />
of Château la Grande Bauquière<br />
PROVENCE<br />
CHÂTEAU<br />
LA GRANDE BAUQUIÈRE<br />
A PASSIONATE RELATIONSHIP<br />
WITH THE LANDSCAPE AND AN<br />
OUTSTANDING VINEYARD<br />
SUMMER 2023<br />
L 19045 - 52 - F: 7,95 € - RD<br />
PAGES 119-130<br />
OUR SUMMER<br />
SELECTIONS:<br />
BULGARIA - ITALY - PROVENCE -<br />
SOUTH A<strong>FR</strong>ICA - SPAIN
Enter your wines now: en-vigneron.gilbertgaillard.com
CONTENTS<br />
COLUMNS / REPORTS<br />
10<br />
36<br />
7<br />
News<br />
10<br />
Spots<br />
Provence, its<br />
outstanding wines and<br />
must-visit locations<br />
26<br />
Appellation<br />
Bourgogne village,<br />
terroir with an<br />
affordable price tag<br />
36<br />
Export<br />
Spanish rosés excel in<br />
export markets<br />
45<br />
Discovery<br />
Bulgaria: A new chapter<br />
for wine<br />
60<br />
Appellation<br />
Soave : where tradition<br />
and biodiversity are<br />
rising to the challenges<br />
of the future<br />
70<br />
Varietal<br />
South Africa celebrates<br />
its success with<br />
Sauvignon blanc<br />
80<br />
Appellation<br />
Appellation Lalandede-Pomerol,<br />
Libourne’s<br />
well-guarded secret<br />
88<br />
Trend<br />
The French beer scene<br />
sees a profusion of new<br />
brands and styles<br />
102<br />
Economy<br />
Chile, the world for<br />
a market<br />
110<br />
Focus<br />
StraItalian Winemakers,<br />
quintessential Italy with<br />
a difference<br />
116<br />
Stars & wine<br />
John and Olivia: great<br />
minds drink alike<br />
118<br />
Contact details<br />
119<br />
Summer selections 2023<br />
Bulgaria - Italy - Provence -<br />
South Africa - Spain<br />
55<br />
Nursery<br />
From vine roots to wine<br />
glasses!<br />
96<br />
Focus<br />
Spain: Bodegas<br />
Criadores de Rioja,<br />
the art of balance<br />
80<br />
88<br />
Gilbert & Gaillard next issue<br />
Autumn 2023<br />
COVER: COURTESY OF THE ESTATES<br />
SUMMER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
3
EDITORIAL<br />
<strong>FR</strong>ANÇOIS GILBERT - EDITORIAL DIRECTOR<br />
THE TIMELESS CHARM OF SOAVE<br />
The first thing that strikes you about Soave – even<br />
before the quality of the wine – is its amazing landscape<br />
of rolling hills studded with hidden, extinct craters<br />
and volcanic soils interspersed with pockets of limestone,<br />
alluvium, sand and basalt. Virtually every hill within the<br />
appellation boasts its own unique character. The type of<br />
soil also plays a pivotal role in the aromatic profile of the<br />
wines. Those grown on volcanic soils tend to recall citrus<br />
fruits, honey, peach and melon with a more saline touch,<br />
whilst those stemming from limestone deposits are more<br />
low-key but gain greater finesse.<br />
Another significant factor is the region’s primary grape<br />
variety, Garganega. It may not stand out for its intensity,<br />
but it is evidently suited to the region and imbues<br />
the wines with excellent persistence and a longevity<br />
that ensures the finest examples of Soave will keep for<br />
over ten years. It is a late-ripening grape variety and<br />
offers up good acidity that lends excellent balance to the<br />
wine. It can be paired with Trebbiano di Soave, and also<br />
Chardonnay.<br />
A second appellation, Soave Classico, illustrates the<br />
extraordinary distinctiveness of the volcanic area<br />
located between Soave and Monteforte d’Alpone. It<br />
produces more velvety wines with delicate scents of<br />
almond and lemon. And lastly, a few years ago, Soave<br />
Superiore DOCG was born. It is matured for at least<br />
five months, sometimes spends time in oak and has the<br />
ability to turn up the volume on its delicious tropical<br />
fruit aromas, but also its minerality, and to display both<br />
roundness and intensity.<br />
This variety has fully established Soave’s pedigree, crystallised<br />
by the classic parameters found in all the great<br />
wines of the world – terroir, climate and grape varieties.<br />
4 SUMMER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
EDITORIAL<br />
PHILIPPE GAILLARD - EDITORIAL DIRECTOR<br />
SOUTH A<strong>FR</strong>ICA AND ITS SAUVIGNON BLANC ERA<br />
Sauvignon blanc has long appealed to many wine<br />
regions around the world, from the Loire Valley to<br />
Bordeaux, New Zealand and Italy via Chile. It has also<br />
gained traction in South Africa and birthed extremely high<br />
quality wines in vineyards virtually across the Cape, both<br />
in the Northern Cape and in every corner of the Western<br />
Cape, in Robertson, Stellenbosch and Breedekloof. From<br />
here, it gravitates towards the coast and the cool slopes<br />
of the undulating valleys (Cape Town and the Cape South<br />
Coast), then climbs in altitude in the continental Cederberg,<br />
where it foils the hazards of the heat and drought,<br />
and the dangers of the wind. This myriad of vineyard sites,<br />
elevations and exposures elicits multiple personas from<br />
Sauvignon.<br />
The varietal has been grown in South Africa since 1880, at<br />
Groot Constantia, and has successfully continued to play<br />
a significant part in the wine industry with 9,987 hectares<br />
under vine. It is the country’s second most widely planted<br />
grape variety. A trade association that focuses on showcasing<br />
and promoting the varietal – Sauvignon Blanc<br />
South Africa – was established at the turn of the 2000s.<br />
Its primary mission is to support the local wine industry,<br />
and it also organises the annual FNB Sauvignon Blanc Top<br />
10 annual competition to award innovation and excellence.<br />
The event does not just establish a hierarchy – the ten best<br />
wines are analysed at length and the information is shared<br />
through technical seminars and workshops as part of an<br />
outreach approach promoted by the association. The aim<br />
is to enable all its members to benefit from all types of<br />
information that can help them to move forward. Read<br />
our fascinating report from within the country on page 70<br />
to find out everything you need to know about ‘Sauvignon<br />
mania’ in the Western Cape.<br />
SUMMER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
5
EDITORIAL<br />
SYLVAIN PATARD - EDITOR IN CHIEF<br />
AN IMMERSION OF THE SENSES IN PROVENCE<br />
The vineyards of Provence extend over 200 kilometres,<br />
through the departments of Var, Bouches-du-Rhône<br />
and part of Alpes-Maritimes. Basking in virtually uninterrupted<br />
sunshine, the scenery is breathtaking and setting<br />
foot in the vineyards alone is enough to create a true<br />
holiday feel. The region’s remarkable sites include Mount<br />
Saint-Victoire and the Sainte-Baume and Maures mountain<br />
ranges, along with the volcanic slopes of the Estérel.<br />
Then there’s the hot, dry and sunny Mediterranean climate,<br />
lavishing some 2,800 hours of sunshine on the vineyards<br />
every year as they are lulled by the gentle breezes which are<br />
another feature of the region’s climate.<br />
Here, wine tourism becomes a way of life such is the<br />
intensity with which it elicits the senses, combining a<br />
feast not only for your eyes, but also for your palate and<br />
your nose, ultimately creating a sense of overwhelming<br />
fulfilment. That’s because Provence is home to some of<br />
the most beautiful vineyard landscapes in the world, offering<br />
endless possibilities for discovery – tastings, vineyard<br />
walks, winery visits, dining experiences, accommodation<br />
amongst the vineyards, art exhibitions, spas, yoga, cinema<br />
and concerts.<br />
So, take some time out to discover it from the inside. Soak<br />
up all these incredible perfumes that accompany you on<br />
your journey. Learn to live with your senses ‘wide open’ so<br />
that you can fully benefit from this bountiful land which<br />
will inundate you with flavours, colours and light. The<br />
wines will taste even better because they are at one with<br />
their environment, in total harmony. This is the kind of<br />
real life sensory experience that we rarely get the chance<br />
to indulge in!<br />
6 SUMMER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
NEWS<br />
CRUS ARTISANS DU MÉDOC:<br />
33 PROPERTIES SELECTED FOR THE CLASSIFICATION<br />
Qualisud, an independent inspection and certification body, revealed the 2023 classification on May 12.<br />
For these authentic, family-run properties, it offers an endorsement of quality and craftsmanship.<br />
The Crus Artisans will be welcoming 6 new, dynamic personalities this year (5 in the<br />
Médoc appellation and 1 in the Haut-Médoc appellation) who will help extend the<br />
reach of the new classification and its shared values – irreproachable quality of the wines<br />
and accessibility. The 2018 classification featured 36 chateaux – the slight drop this year<br />
is due to producers retiring.<br />
What is a Cru Artisan?<br />
Based on a decree dated 21 October 2022, the classification takes places every 5 years.<br />
Specifications include a visit to the property and a blind tasting of several vintages by<br />
a panel of professionals – shippers, brokers, winemakers and viticulture experts. To be<br />
eligible for Cru Artisan status, the property must be independent, small or medium in<br />
size (approximately 10 hectares) with production of up to 100,000 bottles a year, and not<br />
belong to any co-operative wineries. The artisan winegrower, who can work alone or with<br />
employees, must handle the entire supply chain with passion and<br />
determination, from work in the vineyards to marketing the wines.<br />
View the full classification on our website:<br />
https://www.gilbertgaillard.com/en<br />
CHÂTEAU D’OSMOND, IN THE HAUT-MÉDOC<br />
APPELLATION AREA IS ONE OF THE BLUE CHIP<br />
PROPERTIES IN THE CLASSIFICATION<br />
SUMMER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
7
NEWS<br />
TOURAINE-CHENONCEAUX:<br />
€11,160 COLLECTED FOR ‘MAGIE À L’HÔPITAL’<br />
On April 28, the winegrowers of AOC Touraine Chenonceaux and Château de Chenonceau held a charity evening in the Orangery<br />
to collect donations for the ‘Magie à l’hôpital’ association. The money will be used to help make children’s dreams come true.<br />
The evening began with an auction curated by<br />
Chloë Collin, France’s youngest auctioneer –<br />
five lots of six bottles of Touraine Chenonceaux,<br />
each representing a wall-sealed collection*, were<br />
offered for sale. This is the first auction held by<br />
the appellation since the wines were first sealed<br />
in a brick wall in 2014.<br />
The evening then continued with a food and<br />
wine pairing dinner prepared by the association<br />
of top chefs, ‘La Sauce’, whose members<br />
are Olivier Arlot, Didier Edon, Didier Frébout,<br />
Frédéric Arnault, Henri Leclerc, Aurélien<br />
Faugère, Grégory Colas, Grégory Heyndrickx<br />
and Alain Couturier.<br />
Orchestrating the event was Yoann Grégory,<br />
MOF maître d’hôtel 2022, with help from the<br />
Loire Valley sommelier association. The Selles<br />
sur Cher producers’ organisation provided<br />
the cheese which paved the way for a creative<br />
pairing with white Touraine-Chenonceaux<br />
wine. Over fifteen winegrowers, men and<br />
women, took part and engaged with guests,<br />
providing a genuine opportunity for everyone<br />
to share some great moments.<br />
Photo: Cyril Ananiguian<br />
Syndicat Touraine Chenonceaux : Céline Rast - contact@vintourainechenonceaux.fr<br />
*Every year, as a nod to the Château des Dames, a 100% female panel tastes Touraine Chenonceaux wines and chooses its ‘favourite’ white<br />
and red. Three bottles of each colour are signed by the patron of the event and then sealed in a wall of the historic Dômes du Château cellar.<br />
ERIC <strong>FR</strong>OT AND CHLOË COLLIN<br />
PRESENT THE SYMBOLIC CHEQUE<br />
FOR THE SIZEABLE FUNDS<br />
CITÉS DES CLIMATS DE BOURGOGNE: LET THE EVENTS BEGIN!<br />
Following the opening of the Cités in Mâcon (May 3) and Chablis (17 May), then Beaune (17 June),<br />
the time has come for the Cités des Climats et vins de Bourgogne to unveil the programme of events scheduled for this summer.<br />
The first season promises to offer a robust line-up of varied events, as evidenced by the following examples:<br />
Chablis and Mâcon:<br />
Scenographic visit: every Sunday from 10.30 am,<br />
16-30 July, 13-17 August. History of Burgundy<br />
wines, special features of terroir-driven winegrowing,<br />
geology, work in the vineyard and the<br />
winery.<br />
The shaper of time by Thomas Volatier: Tuesday<br />
15 August – 10 am. Discover 2,000 years of winegrowing<br />
in Burgundy, with family and friends,<br />
through a unique staged visit.<br />
Organic wines and vegetarian nibbles: Thursday 3<br />
August – 6.30 pm. When local market gardeners<br />
partner with organic winegrowers from Burgundy.<br />
Beaune:<br />
Scenographic visit: Every day in July and August<br />
– 10.30 am or 4.00 pm. Discover Burgundy’s rich<br />
history over a one-hour visit curated by a guide<br />
who will reveal all the unique features of terroirdriven<br />
winegrowing, listed as World Heritage by<br />
UNESCO.<br />
The architecture of the Cité des Climats et vins de<br />
Bourgogne: Sunday 6 August – 10.30 am. All the<br />
secrets of how it was built and its environmental<br />
features along with the views by accessing the<br />
viewing gallery and enjoying a unique interpretation<br />
of the landscape.<br />
The full programme can be viewed at: https://reservation.citeclimatsvins-bourgogne.com/<br />
CHABLIS, BEAUNE, MÂCON,<br />
THREE VENUES TELL THE STORY<br />
OF BURGUNDY<br />
8 SUMMER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
FOUR<br />
WINEMAKERS<br />
FOR SUMMER<br />
2023<br />
CHÂTEAU<br />
D’OLLIÈRES<br />
Classique 2022<br />
COTEAUX VAROIS EN PROVENCE<br />
11,20€<br />
THOMAS CHIMIER<br />
CAVAVIN PORNICHET<br />
156 Av. du Général de Gaulle<br />
44380 PORNICHET<br />
+33 2 40 01 02 93<br />
pornichet@cavavin.fr<br />
CHÂTEAU DE JAU<br />
2022<br />
CÔTES DU ROUSSILLON<br />
8,40€<br />
OLIVIER GANDELON<br />
CAVAVIN RIOM<br />
28 quater Rue de l’Hôtel de ville<br />
63200 RIOM<br />
+33 6 12 87 12 98<br />
riom@cavavin.fr<br />
CHAMPAGNE<br />
GOSSET<br />
Brut Grand Rosé<br />
CHAMPAGNE<br />
59,70€<br />
PASCAL LE BOT<br />
CAVAVIN AMBON<br />
Zone Commerciale Espace Littoral,<br />
Rue des Orpins<br />
56190 AMBON<br />
+33 2 97 48 64 08<br />
muzillac@cavavin.fr<br />
DOMAINE TARIQUET<br />
Classic 2022<br />
CÔTES DE GASCOGNE<br />
7,30€<br />
ARNAUD BEDU<br />
CAVAVIN VILLE<strong>FR</strong>ANCHE SUR SAONE<br />
507 Rue nationale<br />
69400 VILLE<strong>FR</strong>ANCHE SUR SAONE<br />
+33 4 69 17 36 53<br />
villefranchesursaone@cavavin.fr<br />
THOMAS CHIMIER<br />
CHATEAU D’OLLIER<br />
11,2<br />
156 Av. du Général de<br />
44380 PORNICHET<br />
02 40 01 02 93<br />
pornichet@cavavin.f<br />
PASCAL LE BOT<br />
GOSSET ROSE<br />
59,7<br />
Zone Commerciale E<br />
56190 AMBON<br />
02 97 48 64 08<br />
muzillac@cavavin.fr<br />
OLIVIER GANDELO<br />
CHATEAU DE JAU B<br />
8,4<br />
28 quater Rue de l’Hô<br />
63200 RIOM<br />
06 12 87 12 98<br />
riom@cavavin.fr<br />
ARNAUD BEDU<br />
DOMAINE TARIQUE<br />
7,3<br />
507 Rue nationale<br />
69400 VILLE<strong>FR</strong>ANCH<br />
04 69 17 36 53<br />
villefranchesursaone<br />
CAVAVIN_<strong>GG</strong>52_PAGE_9.indd 1 22/06/2023 09:41:53<br />
7, parc des Fontenelles - 78870 Bailly - France<br />
Tel.: +33 1 30 80 08 08 - Fax: +33 1 30 80 08 88<br />
Editorial Directors:<br />
François Gilbert and Philippe Gaillard<br />
Editor in chief: Sylvain Patard<br />
Tasting committee: François Gilbert, Philippe<br />
Gaillard, Sylvain Patard, François Bezuidenhout,<br />
Olivier Delorme, Matthieu Gaillard, James Turnbull<br />
Editorial staff: Michèle Huyard<br />
Contributors to this issue: Ellen Budge, Camille<br />
Bernard, Jean-Paul Burias, Alain Echalier, Isabelle<br />
Escande, Mauricio Llaver, Sylvain Patard, Francesco<br />
Saverio Russo, Samarie Smith-Meletiou DipWSET,<br />
Frank Rousseau, Ivo Varbanov and the Bulgarian<br />
Association of Independent Winegrowers.<br />
Translation: Sharon Nagel, Marika Quarti, CS<br />
Traduções<br />
Sales and Marketing Director:<br />
Etienne Gaillard : +33 6 30 97 87 26<br />
etienne@gilbertgaillard.com<br />
Advertising France:<br />
Bordeaux - Charentes: Frédéric Comet:<br />
+33 6 27 58 47 06 - fcomet@gilbertgaillard.com<br />
Corsica - Languedoc - Provence - Rhône Valley:<br />
Nicolas Sanseigne: +33 6 46 86 80 01 -<br />
nsanseigne@gilbertgaillard.com<br />
Jura - Loire Valley - Savoy - South West -<br />
Roussillon: Caroline Gilbert: +33 6 84 92 57 61 -<br />
caroline@gilbertgaillard.com<br />
Alsace -Beaujolais - Burgundy - Champagne:<br />
Lucie Jeandel: +33 6 77 72 16 04 -<br />
ljeandel@gilbertgaillard.com<br />
Advertising Italy: Sandra Sirvente:<br />
(+33) 7 63 87 13 13 - ssirvente@gilbertgaillard.com<br />
Advertising Spain, Portugal: Thibault Leray:<br />
(+33) 6 84 01 57 24 - tleray@gilbertgaillard.com<br />
Advertising Central and Eastern Europe:<br />
Philippe Ricros: +33 7 61 76 01 22 -<br />
pricros@gilbertgaillard.com<br />
Advertising Latam : Vivien Morvan<br />
+33 7 61 76 01 02 – vmorvan@gilbertgaillard.com<br />
Marketing coordinator: Lucie Le Gall: +33 7 87 07 78 76<br />
l.legall@gilbertgaillard.com<br />
Production: Isabelle Méjean-Plé - Tapioka Conseil:<br />
+33 6 77 12 77 98 - tapiokaconseil@gmail.com<br />
Lay-out: Lise Delattre - Com l’Hirondelle: +33 9 81 47 75 25<br />
Murielle Guégan - Impactea Concept: +33 6 59 32 08 65<br />
Printed in Spain: Matthieu Battini - Carré Collé:<br />
+33 6 87 27 12 65<br />
Gilbert & Gaillard Tasting South-Africa:<br />
Petru Venter, General Manager: +27 82 787 1784 -<br />
petru@gilbertgaillard.com<br />
Olivier Duroy, Area Manager: +27 72 389 1083 -<br />
oduroy@gilbertgaillard.com<br />
Matthieu Gaillard, Brand Ambassador: +27 66 429 9219<br />
International Distribution: Pineapple Media Ltd -<br />
http://www.pineapple-media.com<br />
Gilbert & Gaillard is published by Vinipresse, SARL with a capital of 35,500 euros • Head Office: 7 parc des Fontenelles, 78870 Bailly, France • Legal representative and Editorial director:<br />
Sylvain Patard • Legal deposit: Second quarter 2023 • Legal publication n° pending •ISSN 2110-6762 • Reproduction of part or all of the contents of this magazine in any form is<br />
expressly prohibited. Any company names that appear in the articles are given for information only and have no publicity purpose.<br />
SUMMER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
9
PROVENCE, ITS OUTSTANDING<br />
WINES AND MUST-VISIT<br />
LOCATIONS<br />
BY JEAN-PAUL BURIAS<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS:<br />
COURTESY OF THE ESTATES -<br />
© HERVÉ FABRE<br />
Provence is a mecca for tourists with a wide range of scenery from the Southern<br />
Alps to the Mediterranean coastline. It enhances its vineyard-clad rolling hills and<br />
olive gloves by offering a choice of wine tourism solutions in an enchanting setting.<br />
We take a closer look at the most beautiful spots in Provence, which also happen to<br />
produce excellent wines…<br />
OUTSTANDING VINEYARD SITES AT CHÂTEAU MARGÜI<br />
10 SUMMER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
PROVENCE<br />
SPOTS<br />
THE MAGNIFICENT CHÂTEAU ROUBINE<br />
The first image is a picture-postcard scene where nature works its magic. Nestled<br />
perfectly between the Alps and the Mediterranean, the vineyards of Provence offer<br />
a fascinating stage for radiant vines basking in sunshine and dotted amidst olive groves.<br />
Set near quintessential villages, beautiful wineries sit comfortably in the landscape, offering<br />
must-visit locations extending an invitation out to visitors. The wines of Provence<br />
beguile with their fruitiness and their freshness across all three colours, even though<br />
rosés have become a benchmark and renowned endorsement of quality worldwide. In<br />
a region to which visitors flock in summer and winter alike, direct-to-consumer sales<br />
account for a high percentage of the business activity of its wineries. This offers the<br />
opportunity to reach out to a captive audience and with visitors keen to travel to the<br />
region on holiday, it has prompted wineries to develop wine tourism activities that<br />
combine discovery with tastings. Wonderful holidays accommodate both visual pleasure<br />
and taste-fuelled experiences driven by a wide variety of enjoyable, appealing wines that<br />
exude the heady perfumes of Mediterranean vineyards, garrigue and sunshine.<br />
CHÂTEAU ROUBINE: A UNIQUE SETTING<br />
Situated between the Verdon gorges and the Mediterranean Sea, Château Roubine offers<br />
a fusion of vineyards, olive groves and lavender. Edged by an amphitheatre of pines and<br />
oak trees, its 130 hectares – including 72 planted to vineyards – illustrate an incredible<br />
variety of landscapes. Such a special location inevitably promotes the production of high<br />
quality wines with the added bonus of natural drainage, or a ‘roubine’, which means<br />
stream in Provencal. The history of Château Roubine is interwoven with that of Provence.<br />
SUMMER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
11
VALÉRIE ROUSSELLE, THE OWNER OF CHÂTEAU ROUBINE<br />
THE VINEYARDS AT CHÂTEAU ROUBINE<br />
Well-known since the 14th century, it was owned by the Order of the Knights Templar<br />
before being passed on to the Knights Hospitaller then to a number of Provence families.<br />
“Our estate is one of Provence’s 18 historic Crus Classés”, explains the winery’s<br />
owner Valérie Rousselle. “We have the good fortune of being able to offer our visitors<br />
a unique setting of 72 hectares of unbroken vineyards which form a natural amphitheatre<br />
lined by pine trees and cork oak. Our wines have always displayed unique<br />
features stemming both from the use of old Provencal grape varieties and sensitive<br />
winemaking methods where temperatures are kept under control”. The programme<br />
of wine tourism activities is varied and robust, recounting the history, the varietal<br />
range and the unique aspects of the chateau from the terrace of the cellar door shop<br />
with its sweeping views out over the vineyards. Visitors then take a deep dive into the<br />
world of wine production as they enter the private doors to the winery. They discover<br />
the secrets of how Crus Classés wines are crafted, following the journey of grapes<br />
from the vineyards to their arrival at the winery, through the winemaking process<br />
and up to bottling. A vineyard trail takes them on an educational and historical walk<br />
to learn about the winery’s unique terroir with a thirteen-point itinerary that mirrors<br />
its thirteen grape varieties. “Increasingly, our customers are looking for authentic<br />
experiences”, continues Rousselle. “We are lucky in that we are one of the largest<br />
production facilities owned by a Provencal family, which is one of our strong points.<br />
We try and capitalise on sustainability as much as possible and on aspects of nature<br />
which are strengths at the winery. We have been practitioners of biodynamic farming<br />
for several years and also plan to build an eco-friendly hotel as well as a restaurant<br />
that favours local products served in the heart of our vineyards”.<br />
12 SUMMER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
THE ROUSSELLE FAMILY<br />
WITH VALÉRIE, THE<br />
WINERY’S OWNER,<br />
ON THE RIGHT<br />
THE CELLAR AT CHÂTEAU<br />
ROUBINE<br />
THE BEAUTIFUL DRIVE AT<br />
DOMAINE DES FÉRAUD<br />
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PROVENCE<br />
SPOTS<br />
DOMAINE DES FÉRAUD:<br />
NATURE AS A BACKDROP<br />
MARKUS CONRAD, THE OWNER OF DOMAINE DES FÉRAUD<br />
AN EVENING SCENE AT DOMAINE DES FÉRAUD<br />
At Domaine des Féraud, savouring elegantly-crafted<br />
wines is not the only pleasure. The winery has developed<br />
a range of enjoyable experiences to include<br />
wine tourism activities all year round. Since 2011,<br />
this charming location has belonged to Markus<br />
Conrad and his wife Annerose, who were anything<br />
but obvious candidates for taking over a winery<br />
and becoming winegrowers. Trumpet player and<br />
company executive Markus Conrad was 50 when<br />
he ventured into winegrowing territory, aiming<br />
to turn his new line of business into an art form<br />
expressing harmony and offering food for the<br />
heart. In the middle of the magnificent Maures<br />
plain, dubbed ‘little Africa’, Domaine des Féraud’s<br />
trail invites visitors to take some time out to stroll<br />
amidst this superb unspoilt location which offers<br />
a home to outstanding biodiversity. The mosaic of<br />
colours and diversity of natural habitats epitomise<br />
an environment that welcomes remarkable heritage<br />
species like Hermann’s tortoise. The former winery<br />
has been entirely revamped to house the cellar<br />
door facilities and now offers a contemporary area<br />
for tasting the organic wines, several of them with<br />
no added sulphites. This warm and inspirational<br />
setting even has a patio area beside the pool. “The<br />
aim is to connect the quality of the wines with that<br />
of the location”, stresses Conrad. “Provence is a land<br />
of tourism and direct-to-consumer sales are often<br />
very important for wineries. We produce fresh,<br />
fruity, dry and elegant wines that encapsulate the<br />
Provencal lifestyle”. Direct sales account for 60% of<br />
the winery’s revenue, mainly due to a skilful combination<br />
of the quality of the wines available and that<br />
of the hospitality. These two fundamental aspects<br />
help generate customer loyalty.<br />
CHÂTEAU MARGÜI:<br />
A LEGENDARY VINEYARD SITE<br />
In the very centre of Provence, Château Margüi is<br />
suffused with a truly magical feel. Since April 2017,<br />
it has belonged to Skywalker Vineyards, whose<br />
14 SUMMER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
THE VINEYARDS AT CHÂTEAU MARGÜI<br />
YANN JOUET, MANAGING DIRECTOR AT CHÂTEAU MARGÜI<br />
main shareholder is the American film producer and director George Lucas.<br />
For thousands of years, three natural springs have nurtured this fertile land that<br />
has been passionately farmed by men and women. In front of the farmhouse, a<br />
statue of Ondine symbolises this pure, precious water in a land home to sunshine<br />
and the Mistral wind. The clay-limestone soils and rolling woodlands create a<br />
unique setting for the vineyards planted on hillsides. “Our wines come under the<br />
Coteaux Varois en Provence appellation”, explains winery director Yann Jouët. “The<br />
woodlands, hillsides and natural springs lend them inherent freshness. In 2021,<br />
we officially opened a new 80m2 store at the entrance to the winery, the idea being<br />
to welcome customers in a relaxed setting where the estate’s first vineyards start.<br />
The tastings are free or can be privatised with a capacity of 100 people for the<br />
largest events”. The cellar door shop was designed to host groups with a large car<br />
park, different spaces and sensitively chosen furniture. These features allow it to<br />
generate 15% of the winery’s revenue and the outlook is particularly bright given<br />
the potential for tourists to visit. “The chateau is a commercial bonus due to a good<br />
mix of several factors”, adds Jouët. “The shop supplements its income as part of a<br />
network of sales – the domestic market for the trade, exports to distributors and<br />
direct-to-consumer sales”.<br />
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PROVENCE<br />
SPOTS<br />
DOMAINE LA GRANDE BAUQUIÈRE:<br />
UNDENIABLE CHARM<br />
At the foot of the Sainte-Victoire mountain, this 18th century farmhouse displays<br />
a modern spirit yet also retains a distinctive Provencal aspect, set within a unique<br />
ecosystem. A wide drive lined by cypress trees and oleanders leads visitors to a<br />
sun-filled interlude amidst magical vistas which were long a source of inspiration<br />
for Cézanne and other Impressionist artists. The white lime walls echo the<br />
hues of the nearby mountain. The ceilings are tinged with the vibrant colours of<br />
Provence with the green of the olive trees in the entrance hall, the blue of the sky<br />
in the lounge and the yellow of the wheat fields in the kitchen. Over an 80-hectare<br />
expanse, Grande Bauquière shares a passionate relationship with the landscape<br />
and an outstanding vineyard site with an array of wines showing unique characters<br />
that act as vehicles for emotions. “Our 11 grape varieties enable us to make some<br />
great blends, both for the rosés and the whites, mirroring an artist’s palette of<br />
colours”, points out Dorothée Salat who bought the estate with her husband Alain<br />
in 2012. “The finesse of a terroir richly endowed with aromatic freshness and a<br />
sensitively curated choice of grape varieties create the style and unique features<br />
DOROTHÉE SALAT, WHO BOUGHT CHÂTEAU LA GRANDE BAUQUIÈRE<br />
WITH HER HUSBAND ALAIN IN 2012<br />
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PROVENCE<br />
SPOTS<br />
of our wines. Our reception area deliberately<br />
aims for simplicity, elegance and a poetic complicity<br />
with nature”. The wine tourism solutions on<br />
offer allow visitors to discover the estate’s history<br />
and expertise through its elaborate décor, encyclopaedia<br />
plates, vineyard tools and maps of the<br />
vineyards drawn by the visual artist Jean Oddes.<br />
“We have created an outdoor space to welcome our<br />
customers surrounded by views of the Sainte-Victoire”,<br />
adds Salat. “Recently, we began selling wine<br />
at the estate so history is just beginning for us.<br />
Since lockdown, customers have grown accustomed<br />
to going to their local wine merchants.<br />
But now many enjoy coming here for the beautiful<br />
scenery and the quality of the wines, with great<br />
balance between the two”.<br />
ROBERT GHIGO TASTING WINES<br />
VIGNOBLES GHIGO DOMAINE<br />
DE CHÂTEAU VERT:<br />
AN APPROACHABLE WINERY<br />
CAMILLE GHIGO, THE DAUGHTER OF ROBERT GHIGO<br />
This estate certainly warrants its name. The<br />
chateau at Vignobles Ghigo is nestled amidst<br />
a quintessential Provence pine forest covering<br />
several hectares and epitomises unspoilt countryside.<br />
Mentioned in land registry records dating<br />
back to the 17th century, it is among the oldest<br />
in the Côtes-de-Provence-La Londe appellation<br />
area. Owned by the Ghigo family since 2010, the<br />
40-hectare site – including 30 planted to organically<br />
farmed vines – has been set the challenge<br />
of making biodynamic farming its priority. “The<br />
winery has a fairly unusual location beside the<br />
sea and due to urban sprawl, in a town”, says<br />
Camille Ghigo, the daughter of Robert Ghigo.<br />
“Our terroir, the quality of the wines – our fresh,<br />
perfumed rosés, our delicate, appetising whites<br />
and our fine, harmonious reds – are at the crux<br />
of our communications, as is the fact that we are<br />
an approachable, family-run winery. We can sense<br />
a desire among people to get back to basics. Our<br />
regular customers and holidaymakers increasingly<br />
look for these values and a story, in addition to the<br />
quality of the wines”. Creating outdoor spaces and<br />
cellar door facilities has optimised conditions for<br />
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ROBERT GHIGO, WHO<br />
PASSED ON HIS LOVE<br />
OF THE LAND AND WINE TO<br />
HIS CHILDREN AND<br />
HIS GRANDDAUGHTERS<br />
BORDEAUX<br />
TRAVEL<br />
VINEYARDS AT DOMAINE<br />
SAINT-JEAN<br />
THE PAQUETTE FAMILY<br />
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BENJAMIN MEÏ AND HIS COUSIN<br />
BERNARD MEÏ, OWNERS OF<br />
DOMAINE SAINT-JEAN<br />
welcoming visitors. The emblem featured in the courtyard piques people’s curiosity<br />
and invites them to come in. Direct-to-consumer sales account for a significant<br />
chunk of sales, whilst also offering an opportunity to share a strong passion for<br />
making wine.<br />
MAISON MEÏ – DOMAINE SAINT-JEAN:<br />
AN OUTSTANDING LOCATION<br />
Created in 2019, Maison Meï is primarily a family affair led by two keen wine<br />
enthusiasts, Benjamin Meï and his cousin Bernard Meï. Domaine Saint-Jean is one<br />
of the foundation stones of the brand, with its outstanding location and a historic<br />
farmhouse situated between the Luberon mountain range, the Durance valley and<br />
the Mediterranean Sea as centrepieces. The Mediterranean climate characterised<br />
by hot, dry summers and mild, damp winters and the strong, dry Mistral wind<br />
promote healthy vines where diseases are kept effortlessly at bay. The estate has<br />
blazed the trail for implementing new concepts like agro-forestry, permaculture,<br />
agro-ecology and cover crops which limit tillage and retain the natural coolness in<br />
the mornings. The wines are highly aromatic with distinctive freshness, yet at the<br />
same time show respect for the inherent expression of their vineyard sites. Plans<br />
for development include building a 1,700m2 winery boasting a total winemaking<br />
capacity of 10,000 hectolitres. It includes small-batch winemaking facilities with<br />
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PROVENCE<br />
SPOTS<br />
JÉRÔME PAQUETTE AND HIS DAUGHTER CLAIRE<br />
amphorae and barrels. Turning the farmhouse<br />
into cellar door facilities goes hand in hand with<br />
the creation of an events venue and accommodation,<br />
designed to consolidate the wine tourism<br />
business. “We are on the outskirts of the Luberon<br />
national park, one of the most visited parts of the<br />
South of France”, explains Benjamin Meï. “Our<br />
location 25 minutes from Aix-en-Provence and<br />
40 minutes from Marseilles international airport<br />
makes us easy to access. Construction of a new<br />
winery will be followed by enhanced wine tourism<br />
activities at the end of 2024. The aim is play a<br />
pivotal role in showcasing Luberon wines”. Wine<br />
tourism is viewed as a driver of growth and the<br />
strategy is paying off with 15% of sales in France<br />
and 85% in export markets. The recent purchase<br />
of Château La Gavède complements the desire<br />
for growth.<br />
CHÂTEAU PAQUETTE:<br />
SURROUNDED BY PINE GROVES<br />
VINEYARDS SET IN THE HEART OF PROVENCE’S PINE GROVES<br />
The history of Château Paquette is linked to a<br />
family that became spellbound by this unique location<br />
in 1952. Hidden amongst the pine groves, the<br />
vineyards look as if they have been perched on the<br />
volcanic rocks of the Estérel mountains, nurtured<br />
by the gentle spray of the sea. The winery welcomes<br />
visitors so that they can take a natural dive into its<br />
vineyards. Then, once back at the cellar door shop,<br />
they can enjoy a tasting of the wines curated by its<br />
staff and indulge in a moment of sheer pleasure<br />
and conviviality. A leafy terrace guarantees ideal<br />
conditions for savouring an appetising choice of<br />
nibbles served with a glass of wine. “Everything<br />
I do focuses on creating what I feel is the finest<br />
site-expressiveness with an impactful range of<br />
environmental commitments”, believes Jérôme<br />
Paquette. “To fulfil my objective, I try and stay as<br />
hands off as possible and let the fruit speak for<br />
itself. I like vintages to be different because they<br />
offer variation. I view my role as a craft winegrower”.<br />
The cellar has remain unchanged and<br />
encapsulates three generations of history. “The<br />
most important thing is the quality of our hospi-<br />
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PROVENCE<br />
SPOTS<br />
tality”, adds Paquette. “Each visitor can spend time tasting our wines by sitting beneath the plane<br />
trees, just as they would in a village square. We like to welcome them with a small bunch of everlasting<br />
flowers, especially when they have travelled long distances by plane and cannot take any bottles<br />
back with them. At least they can keep a souvenir and a lasting memento of our winery”.<br />
CHÂTEAU PARADIS: AN AUTHENTIC WELCOME<br />
Visitors to Château Paradis are immediately grasped by the significance of history here. The first<br />
vine plantings on its land date back to 600 BC when the Phocaeans settled in Marseilles. Subsequently,<br />
the Romans built Villa Regina and a farm with a grape press. The chateau’s land has been<br />
sold to a number of owners over time but it has always retained its strong bond with the culture of<br />
wine. Since they bought it in 2011, Xavier and Odile Thieblin, who value their Provence origins, have<br />
aimed to enhance the winery and create terroir-driven wines with genuine character. A signposted<br />
vineyard trail with picturesque views out over the Luberon and curated tastings all add to the winery’s<br />
appeal. “Our richly aromatic, fresh, elegant wines offer a mirror to our terroir and our expertise”,<br />
comments Odile Thieblin. Christine Pautut, head of wine tourism, expounds further: “Our wines are<br />
promoted through our unspoilt natural surroundings and cellar door facilities with floor to ceiling<br />
CHÂTEAU PARADIS LOCATED NORTH OF THE SAINTE VICTOIRE MOUNTAIN<br />
WHICH CAN BE SEEN IN THE BACKGROUND<br />
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XAVIER AND ODILE THIEBLIN,<br />
THE OWNERS OF CHÂTEAU<br />
PARADIS<br />
LÉGENDES<br />
JÉRÉMIE PECKRE, THE DIRECTOR<br />
OF CHÂTEAU PARADIS, IS<br />
INVOLVED IN EVERY ASPECT OF<br />
THE WINERY ON A DAILY BASIS<br />
MATURING THE MOST PREMIUM<br />
WINES AT CHÂTEAU PARADIS<br />
windows opposite the vineyards. These are all part of the quality customer experience<br />
enhanced by authentic hospitality that echoes our inherent spirit. A lot of foreigners who<br />
have a particular soft spot for Provence and France’s gourmet food and wine heritage<br />
also pay us a visit. They come for the quality of the wine, and for our hospitality. This<br />
marketing bonus is a complementary resource for promoting our wines”.<br />
CHÂTEAU DE FONSCOLOMBE: GUARANTEED ENJOYMENT<br />
Located in a splendid setting, Château de Fonscolombe offers an unrivalled experience<br />
combining great facilities, accommodation in a luxury hotel and a tour of a winery<br />
renowned for its excellence. The hotel is designed as a spacious house where every<br />
different part comes together to foster a family spirit, whilst also ensuring everyone’s<br />
privacy. The benchmark vineyards are rooted in Roman times. The very minerally soils<br />
and climate suffuse the wines with a fine, fruity nose, across all three colours. “The cellar<br />
door shop is very well situated in the Durance valley and we have publicised this aspect<br />
of the winery”, stresses Sylvie Hanicotte, head of the winery. “Building work is afoot<br />
with a new winery and cellar door facilities. Visitors come for the quality of the wines<br />
and their price tags. Sixty percent of the wines are sold direct-to-consumers and there<br />
is no let-up in sales”.<br />
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BENJAMIN MEÏ, OF<br />
DOMAINE SAINT-JEAN<br />
THE CELLAR DOOR AT<br />
CHÂTEAU PAQUETTE<br />
THE OUTSTANDING<br />
CHATEAU AT CHÂTEAU DE<br />
FONSCOLOMBE<br />
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SYLVIE HANICOTTE,<br />
HEAD OF THE WINERY<br />
AT CHÂTEAU DE FONSCOLOMBE<br />
LÉGENDES<br />
AN AERIAL VIEW OF CHÂTEAU<br />
DE FONSCOLOMBE<br />
CHÂTEAU DE FONSCOLOMBE,<br />
IN THE HEART OF PROVENCE<br />
THE APPEAL OF THE REGION AND ITS WINES<br />
IS HYPNOTISING<br />
France’s oldest wine region is now extremely popular. With export volumes booming,<br />
Provence has established a reputation for itself as the world’s leading producer of rosé<br />
wines, whilst also offering great potential for reds and whites. Wineries have skilfully<br />
developed production with some true terroir-driven vinous treasures from low-cropping<br />
vines, made using very elaborate winemaking techniques where temperature control<br />
is a constant. The vineyards seem to be magnetised by all these different aspects and<br />
from their ancient, hardy rocky mountain sites, they live in harmony with the Mediterranean<br />
climate. Production of balanced, elegant wines with tight-knit tannins is a major<br />
attraction at the core of a virtuous circle that increasingly includes year-round tourism.<br />
“We don’t need to rely on anything contrived to develop hospitality”, concludes Jérôme<br />
Paquette from Château Paquette. “Many wineries are experiencing good growth in their<br />
wine tourism business, partly due to the fact that the pandemic forced us to reinvent<br />
ourselves. I don’t know of any good wines that are produced in ugly vineyards, which<br />
is why I am proud to offer people my wines – which I hope are good – in an endearing<br />
location which I hope is memorable”. This fusion between beautiful scenery, wineries<br />
and enjoyable wines is undeniably an extremely valuable asset to have.<br />
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BOURGOGNE VILLAGE,<br />
TERROIR WITH AN AFFORDABLE<br />
PRICE TAG<br />
BY ALAIN ECHALIER<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS:<br />
COURTESY OF THE ESTATES,<br />
It is sometimes tempting to think that Burgundy is all about its revered giants,<br />
and nothing else. Its Chambertins, Montrachets and Cortons, all those ruinously<br />
expensive labels that are not only reserved for an elite audience, but also totally<br />
impossible to lay your hands on. Or at best, its Meursault and Gevrey Chambertin<br />
Premiers Crus, that are barely more affordable. But no, the ‘Village’ appellation<br />
level provides the perfect solution for those who want to drink very good wines,<br />
without breaking the bank. And if you’re prepared to spend some time searching<br />
– they are only produced on a boutique scale – some of them even have extremely<br />
affordable price tags. We dive deep into some classic offerings for enlightened<br />
enthusiasts, and a genuine treasure trove for the geeky browsers.<br />
WINES ARE TASTED IN THE CORNU’S WINERY<br />
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BURGUNDY<br />
APPELLATION<br />
A RAINBOW OVER THE MOUNTAIN NEAR DOMAINE GARAUDET<br />
In Burgundy, wines are named after the location where their grapes are grown. The more<br />
extensive the area, the broader the typicity of the wines. The smaller the area, the more<br />
the style is precise and unique, which often makes these the most sought-after wines.<br />
UNDERSTANDING BURGUNDY’S ‘PYRAMID’<br />
Usually, appellations are classified using a pyramid system. At the bottom is the entire<br />
wine region, the Bourgogne appellation, which is thus the regional level. At the top are<br />
the Grands Crus, the most expensive labels. Generally speaking, they are named after<br />
the relevant vineyard block, such as Clos de Vougeot. Lastly, in the middle, are the Village<br />
appellations. This is the most common geographic scale and matches the way farms used<br />
to work, based on the radius covered by man and horse. Some appellations have been used<br />
for a long time and are prestigious, such as Volnay and Nuits-Saint-Georges. Others,<br />
which were subsumed into an intermediary level between regional and village, have ‘won<br />
their independence’ after research to establish their individual typicity – Ladoix is a case<br />
in point.<br />
DIFFERENT TYPES OF ‘VILLAGE’<br />
Within the village appellation, two types of winemaking strategies can be used. Either<br />
wines made from grapes grown in several of the village’s vineyards are blended, in which<br />
case the wine is simply named after the village, as with Chablis. These are occasionally<br />
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27
BURGUNDY<br />
APPELLATION<br />
THE DARLES IN THEIR VINEYARDS IN <strong>FR</strong>ONT OF IRANCY<br />
referred to as ‘round wines’. Or the grapes come<br />
from a single vineyard – in Burgundy these<br />
are known as ‘climats’ – and the name of the<br />
vineyard block can be stated, after that of the<br />
village. Chablis Milly is one such example.<br />
A diminutive number of ‘climats’ are known<br />
to be superior in quality to others, but do not<br />
reach the level of perfection attained by the<br />
Grands Crus. They can produce Premier Cru<br />
appellation wines. These particular ‘climats’ are<br />
always named after the village but the focus on<br />
the label is on the character of the 1st growth.<br />
For example, Chablis 1er Cru Côte de Léchet. But<br />
they are not the topic of this article.<br />
A final noteworthy point is that the descriptor<br />
‘Grand Vin de Bourgogne’ applies to all wines<br />
from Burgundy, including the village level. It<br />
is therefore not a component of the appellation<br />
pyramid but rather an indication that the wine<br />
belongs to the region.<br />
IRANCY: DOMAINE ERIC DARLES<br />
AND ITS DISTINCTIVE WINES<br />
THE DARLES’ WINERY<br />
In northern Burgundy, West of Chablis – the<br />
renowned home of white wines – is the magnificent<br />
mediaeval village of Irancy where only red<br />
wines are grown over 190 hectares. The clay-limestone<br />
soils here are slightly redder. This is<br />
the location for the estate that Eric Darles took<br />
over in 1995 after inheriting it from his father,<br />
and where he farms with his wife Christine. The<br />
Darles family has been producing Irancy wines<br />
for many generations and the present-day estate<br />
has 12 hectares under vine.<br />
Irancy accounts for two-thirds of its wines.<br />
Darles stresses that one of the unique features<br />
of the wine is that it can contain 5 to 10% of the<br />
César variety, in mixed plantings alongside<br />
Pinot noir. These vigorous vines are challenging<br />
to work with and produce very tannic,<br />
darkly-coloured grapes which Darles enjoys in<br />
his wines. It lends them even more distinctive<br />
typicity, and he likes the extra bottle age the<br />
grapes provide. Ideally, his Irancy should be<br />
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BURGUNDY<br />
APPELLATION<br />
savoured after around a decade. In fact, he does keep back some bottles so<br />
that older vintages can be sold. And despite the success of his wines, he does<br />
still market some vintages like 2019. Although its typicity explains why its price<br />
tag is higher than for a regional Burgundy – which sells for around €8 – Irancy<br />
is still a very affordable wine at around €13 a bottle.<br />
Depite its fairly northerly location, the village is affected by climate change.<br />
Darles has noticed that his wines are becoming more concentrated and<br />
powerful, even though they continue to comply with the basic criteria. On the<br />
palate, the 2020 vintage is therefore more reminiscent of black than red fruit.<br />
The Darles also sell single vineyard Irancy, however, which displays notes of<br />
raspberries and spices with fine tannins.<br />
DOMAINE AEGERTER: ALL OF BURGUNDY<br />
Located in Nuits-Saint-Georges, the estate owns 15 hectares under vine out<br />
of a total sourcing area of 50 hectares from which the wines are made and<br />
AT DOMAINE AEGERTER, THE BOSS TASTES THE WINES<br />
SUMMER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
29
BURGUNDY<br />
APPELLATION<br />
EMILIE PANSIOT IN HER WINERY<br />
LES CHANTEMERLES AT DOMAINE PANSIOT<br />
matured. The trading business is based on grape<br />
supply contracts. Paul Aegerter, the owner and<br />
winegrower now helms the family company on<br />
his own. As his range covers all of Burgundy,<br />
his insight into the ‘village’ level is particularly<br />
relevant. Right off the bat, he stresses<br />
that ‘village’ wines run the gamut in terms of<br />
pricing, ranging from around 15 euros for a<br />
Mâcon Village to €90-100 for a Meursault or a<br />
Puligny-Montrachet.<br />
The Aegerters have a fairly unique distribution<br />
model for Burgundy as exports account for only<br />
20% of sales, compared with 50% for the French<br />
market and a balance of 30% to airline companies.<br />
The French also tend to buy more Chablis,<br />
Mâcon, Chorey and Maranges, whereas export<br />
markets import Nuits-Saint-Georges, Vosne<br />
Romanée and Puligny-Montrachet. Aegerter<br />
then goes on to point out that all of these<br />
wines are increasingly rare, particularly the<br />
latest vintages which yielded small volumes.<br />
Although new appellations such as Vézeley have<br />
been established, they are few and far between.<br />
Broadly speaking, the appellations are cast in<br />
stone. Finding new vineyards to lease is virtually<br />
impossible, particularly for the famous villages<br />
where over the past few years some extremely<br />
wealthy buyers have invested.<br />
Increasingly, the wines therefore have to be sold<br />
on a limited allocation basis so that everyone gets<br />
a look in. Although prices have risen, they have<br />
remained reasonable and have not compensated<br />
for falling volumes. Aegerter therefore has greater<br />
faith in the development of the regional appellations<br />
of Hautes Côtes de Nuits and Beaune, where<br />
the terroir is conducive to producing wines that<br />
can improve, some of them single vineyard offerings.<br />
This is where quality Burgundy can increasingly<br />
be found, for under €30.<br />
DOMAINE PANSIOT:<br />
A HOST OF APPELLATIONS<br />
This family estate is located in Corgoloin, in<br />
southern Côte de Nuits. It now boasts 21 hec-<br />
30 SUMMER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
BURGUNDY<br />
APPELLATION<br />
tares and was taken over by Emilie Pansiot in<br />
2004. She produces village appellations such<br />
as Meursault which she sells for around €29 a<br />
bottle, but also markets lesser-known appellations<br />
including Chorey-Lès-Beaune, for nearly<br />
half the price. The red is fruity, appetising and<br />
easy-drinking when young because Pansiot enjoys<br />
fruit-forward wines – and she makes and<br />
markets the wines. When she has time, she can<br />
also be found in the vineyards. She produces a<br />
white Chorey-Lès-Beaune too, which is slightly<br />
minerally, matured in casks for two to three<br />
months and offers up some of the oiliness of<br />
Meursault, but to a lesser degree.<br />
Her Beaune appellation red wine, the ‘Clos<br />
des Mariages’ – a single vineyard which, as its<br />
name suggests, is surrounded by a wall – is<br />
quite soft because the sandy soils do not retain<br />
water. In fact, it is always the first vineyard to<br />
be harvested.<br />
The Côtes de Nuits are the core of the estate’s<br />
range. The wines are either a blend of vineyards<br />
– a Côtes de Nuits-Villages – or single vineyards.<br />
‘Les Chantemerles’ is the estate’s original red<br />
wine label. A single vineyard approach is totally<br />
coherent because the vineyards extend over soils<br />
with different geological formations, lending<br />
the wine its balance.<br />
Domaine Pansiot exports only a minute proportion<br />
of its wines – a mere 1%. Pansiot sells via<br />
trading companies, wine merchants and increasingly<br />
to private customers. For those who enjoy<br />
visiting wineries, there is always someone at<br />
the estate to welcome visitors by appointment<br />
on Saturdays.<br />
FLORENT GARAUDET<br />
THE VILLAGE OF MONTHÉLIE<br />
DOMAINE GARAUDET:<br />
TRADITIONALLY-STYLED MONTHÉLIE<br />
Florent Garaudet has been the winegrower here<br />
since 2020 and is the family’s fifth-generation<br />
representative. The present-day winery located<br />
in Monthélie has 11.5 hectares under vine. Sixty<br />
percent of the vineyards are planted to Pinot<br />
noir, in the village of Monthélie, with a balance<br />
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31
BURGUNDY<br />
APPELLATION<br />
primarily of Chardonnay in Meursault and Puligny. His father still lends him a<br />
hand and there is one employee but more staff is needed!<br />
Monthélie, points out Garaudet, has 160 hectares under vine and is the smallest<br />
appellation in the Côte-de-Beaune, sandwiched between Meursault and Volnay.<br />
In fact, prior to 1937, the wines – most of them red – were sold under the Volnay<br />
or Pommard appellations, which explains why Monthélie is not better known.<br />
Hence, it combines “the finesse of Volnay and the powerfulness of Pommard”,<br />
says Garaudet.<br />
He makes his wines in “the Burgundy style”, in other words, designed to be laid<br />
down. They are neither fined nor filtered. The wine is fruity with great balance and<br />
should be drunk within the first eight years or so. In fact, often he markets at least<br />
three different vintages. It is worthwhile having some stocks of red wine for greater<br />
variety, he explains. Despite this, the Americans often want the latest vintage, he<br />
smiles. A bottle will set you back around €30 to €35. His white wines, conversely,<br />
embrace prestigious appellations and fly off the shelves. Seventy percent of his<br />
wines are shipped abroad and Garaudet prefers to deal with a different importer<br />
for each country, primarily the USA, Japan and China, but also the UK, Brazil<br />
and Singapore.<br />
FLORENT GARAUDET AND HIS DAUGHTER MÉLINE<br />
32 SUMMER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
BURGUNDY<br />
APPELLATION<br />
DOMAINE BOURGOGNE-DEVAUX:<br />
A POMMARD LIKE NO OTHER<br />
BERNARD LÉGER PLUMET (CHALET<br />
POUILLY) PRESENTS HIS WINES<br />
IN GERMANY<br />
ELINE, THE AMERICAN<br />
GRANDDAUGHTER, RETURNS FOR<br />
HARVESTING AT CHALET POUILLY<br />
The aptly-named Bourgogne family are in fact two<br />
winegrowing brothers with a difference. Their<br />
estate, located in Meloisey, has 4.1 hectares under<br />
vine and both brothers have two jobs. Luc, 38, is also<br />
a banker, whilst his brother Fabrice, 41, is a winegrower<br />
at the Hospices de Beaune. Sometimes their<br />
father lends a hand, and they sell 30,000 bottles,<br />
hence their small winery.<br />
They produce two Pommard appellation labels,<br />
including one called ‘Vignot’ grown on very stony<br />
soils in a vineyard facing due South, which reminds<br />
them more of a Volnay. The wines sell for around<br />
€35 a bottle. The appellation’s reputation is such<br />
that the wines are in high demand, particularly<br />
among Americans. The two brothers therefore<br />
strive to distribute their wines as best they can. Luc<br />
enjoys savouring the wines after 3 to 5 years bottle<br />
age, when they start to develop aromas of undergrowth<br />
and game.<br />
They also produce a red Haute-Côte-de-Beaune –<br />
this is not a village but a sub-regional appellation.<br />
One of Domaine Bourgogne-Devaux’s characteristics<br />
is that some of the vineyards are located close to<br />
those for Pommard. Everything is therefore vinted<br />
as single-vineyard offerings, producing six different<br />
labels. In 2020, the quality was superb, claims<br />
Luc, with pronounced alcohol levels. In fact, it<br />
offers the best value for money. When the brothers<br />
present their entire range, consumers ultimately<br />
forget that it is a Haute-Côte-de-Beaune.<br />
THE FAMOUS SOLUTRÉ ROCK<br />
DOMAINE DU CHALET POUILLY:<br />
MAJESTIC ST VÉRAN<br />
At the helm of this estate is a threesome – Bernard<br />
Léger-Plumet, a former doctor; his wife, a biologist;<br />
and their daughter based in New York.<br />
Founded in 1850, the winery is situated – the<br />
clue is in the name – in the hamlet of Pouilly. It<br />
has 9 hectares under vine and its village appellations<br />
are Pouilly Fuissé, St Véran and Mâcon<br />
Solutré-Pouilly.<br />
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33
BURGUNDY<br />
APPELLATION<br />
PIERRE CORNU<br />
AN AUTUMN SKY OVER THE ENTRANCE<br />
TO CLOS DICONNE<br />
“Pouilly-Fuissé is an appellation that dates back to<br />
1936, well before St Véran (1976) and the wine sells<br />
for around €19”, explains Bernard Léger-Plumet.<br />
“It always has a little more body and is matured for<br />
between 9 and 19 months in wooden vessels with a<br />
capacity of 400, 500 or 600 litres”. They have tried<br />
stainless steel, but their customers always prefer<br />
wood though only as a complement – “you mustn’t<br />
be able smell or taste it”. The appellation’s reputation<br />
stems from several factors: vineyard sites<br />
that encapsulate a geological era, the Solutrean; a<br />
French President, François Mitterand, who liked to<br />
walk up Mount Solutré; and long-standing exports<br />
to the United States.<br />
The St Véran, which sells for around €14, is always<br />
fermented in stainless steel at the winery. This<br />
is a fine Burgundy wine with a very reasonable<br />
price tag and is often described as “the best value<br />
for money in Burgundy”. They even sell some in<br />
New Zealand! Lastly, the Mâcon Solutré-Pouilly,<br />
also made entirely in tanks, sells for €11.<br />
“The quality of the wines across the region has<br />
come along in leaps and bounds”, stresses Léger-<br />
Plumet, who has taken part in many judging<br />
panels. Wineries have transitioned to bottling<br />
their wines and installed temperature-controlled<br />
tanks. But prices need to stay reasonable because<br />
otherwise New World wines from countries like<br />
Argentina could outpace them.<br />
DOMAINE EDMOND CORNU:<br />
WORSHIPPING LADOIX<br />
This family-run estate located in Ladoix boasts 16<br />
hectares under vine. Pierre, 60, works with Edith,<br />
his wife, Emmanuel their cousin and Lucie their<br />
daughter, with retired winegrower Edmond always<br />
ready to lend a hand.<br />
Ladoix is mostly red wine, explains Pierre Cornu.<br />
Sure enough, of the 100 hectares under vine, only<br />
20 or so produce white wine. The village is situated<br />
just South of the start of the Côte de Nuits. In fact,<br />
the vineyards are divided into two parts – one on<br />
Corton hill, and one that is geologically part of<br />
the Côte de Nuits. The soils date from the Middle<br />
34 SUMMER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
LUCIE CORNU, EDITH CORNU,<br />
PIERRE CORNU AND<br />
EMMANUEL BOIREAU<br />
Jurassic and are therefore older and the wines recall large, fleshy black cherries.<br />
Conversely, in the Côte de Beaune part, the soils date from the Upper Jurassic and<br />
the Pinot noir is more reminiscent of red fruits and more floral.<br />
At the estate, everything is fermented as single vineyards – there are 14 tanks of<br />
red wine. After blending, the family markets two Ladoix labels and one Aloxe-<br />
Corton, along with a little Chorey-Lès-Beaune. Aloxe is better known than Ladoix<br />
which, forty years ago, was sold in bulk as Côte de Beaune Village, or Ladoix Côte<br />
de Beaune. However, thanks to the famous ‘terroiriste’ American importer Neal<br />
Rosenthal, the Cornus began to produce ‘Ladoix’. Since then, the village has been<br />
properly specified/identified and it has become their pride and joy. That’s because<br />
since 1870, when a fire destroyed their great-great-grandfather’s house in Chorey-<br />
Lès-Beaune and he moved to the village, Ladoix has been their home.<br />
WINES FOR ‘HONEST DRINKERS’<br />
The village level for Burgundy wines therefore resonates with ‘honest drinkers’<br />
– a far cry from the snobbish drinkers who choose wines based on their<br />
label – yet at the same time offers genuine quality linked to the region’s myriad<br />
vineyard sites. We can only hope that in a globalised world, with a growing taste<br />
for wine developing among new consumer countries, this is how things will stay<br />
for many years to come, because it is the perfect epitome of Burgundy’s deeprooted<br />
farming spirit.<br />
SUMMER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
35
SPANISH ROSÉS EXCEL<br />
IN EXPORT MARKETS<br />
BY ISABELLE ESCANDE<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS:<br />
COURTESY OF THE ESTATES,<br />
Although some Spanish wine regions have traditionally produced rosés, there is no<br />
denying that the reputation of pink wines has never equalled that of the country’s<br />
reds or whites. But the winds of change are blowing, lifting the outlook for rosés.<br />
Increasingly, bodegas are embracing the huge potential for this style of wine, when<br />
it is crafted with care.<br />
RIGHT <strong>FR</strong>OM THE OUTSET, BODEGAS TEMPORE FOCUSED ON ORGANIC WINEGROWING, BECOMING ONE OF THE REGION’S TRAILBLAZERS<br />
36 SUMMER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
SPAIN<br />
EXPORT<br />
BODEGAS MARQUÉS DEL ATRIO IS SITUATED IN THE RIOJA ALTA REGION<br />
The change is already reaping rewards – Spanish rosés are increasingly<br />
in demand in the international marketplace and faced with competition<br />
from French and Italian behemoths, the industry is determined to garner<br />
attention.<br />
For many years, Spanish bodegas paid little or no attention to production of<br />
rosé wines, explains Jennifer Lafuente at Bodega Tempore. “They tended to<br />
be more an offshoot of red wine production” rather than classed as products<br />
in their own right. That perception has now changed, however. Not only<br />
is rosé viewed as a potentially high quality pour, it is also seen as a way of<br />
aligning with market trends and therefore a genuine blessing for wineries<br />
that export.<br />
That’s because rosés tick all the boxes. Fresh and fruit-forward, they match<br />
the zeitgeist for less woodsy and alcoholic wines, ones that are more consumer-friendly.<br />
This also explains why in Spain, where consumption of rosé<br />
has never really been significant, the younger generations are the catalyst<br />
for a change in drinking patterns. In export markets, where rosés are traditionally<br />
shipped, the figures are constantly on the rise. Although rosés still<br />
only represent a relatively small share of production at the five wineries we<br />
met with – totalling 10% at most – exports have grown.<br />
SUMMER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
37
ANNA ROVIRA,<br />
THE WINEMAKER<br />
AT CELLER DE CAPÇANES<br />
Why the popularity though? The wineries have deliberately focused on the<br />
variety and quality of their wines to satisfy differing needs. They have shied<br />
away from a single image and have successfully combined tradition and new<br />
techniques, adding a dash of free-thinking which seems to have hit the mark.<br />
A cursory glance at the infinite array of colours of Spanish rosé – ranging<br />
from onion skin to deep pink – reveals just how much the category is proudly<br />
displaying its varied wardrobe…<br />
CELLER DE CAPÇANES, APPETISING ROSÉS<br />
AND A KOSHER LABEL<br />
Celler de Capçanes has made a name for itself, among other things, by producing<br />
kosher wines. One of the most representative wineries in the Montsant<br />
appellation area in Catalonia, it crafts two rosés, one of which complies<br />
with the ritual requirements of the Jewish religion. Both are made using the<br />
saignee process from the native variety Grenache, “which lends the wines very<br />
perfumed, fresh characters with intense red fruit notes, like strawberries or<br />
raspberries”, explains Helena Pagès, tasked with exports and communications<br />
at the winery. “It gives our rosé wines very appetising flavours and a colour<br />
spectrum ranging from pale pink onion skin to a very captivating, slightly<br />
darker pink”.<br />
38 SUMMER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
ÁNGELA PARDO,<br />
THE WINEMAKER<br />
AT BODEGAS NODUS<br />
Their colour may be more akin to the rosés of Provence than those of northern<br />
Spain, but what sets Celler de Capçanes’ wines apart is “their fruity palate, their<br />
silky tannins and their saline touch which offers up a very long, elegant finish”,<br />
stresses Pagès. The wines have been widely distributed across the European<br />
market for several years, primarily in Germany, the United Kingdom, Switzerland<br />
and Belgium, major rosé consumer countries. As for the kosher label, its<br />
main following outside the cities of Europe is in Israel and the United States.<br />
BODEGAS NODUS, MULTI-FACETED BOBAL<br />
Located in one of the finest wine areas in DO Utiel-Requena, West of Valencia,<br />
Bodegas Nodus is set within a naturally blessed region of high environmental<br />
value. Surrounded by pine groves and eight monumental holm oaks, the winery<br />
has 200 hectares, 80% of which is planted to the native grape variety Bobal with<br />
vines over 40 years old.<br />
Obviously, rosés provide a great showcase for the variety, with its fruity aromas,<br />
although Tempranillo is also used, stresses the bodega’s export assistant Marisa<br />
Donnan. Bobal allows the winery to run the gamut in terms of nuance and<br />
to meet the needs of its international customers. Its rosés are mostly sold in<br />
export markets and are “seasonal wines”, admits Donnan. Orders are placed<br />
SUMMER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
39
HARVESTING BY HAND<br />
IN THE HIGH-ELEVATION<br />
VINEYARDS AT CELLER DE<br />
CAPÇANES<br />
BORDEAUX<br />
TRAVEL<br />
ADOLFO DE LAS HERAS<br />
POLO, THE DIRECTOR OF<br />
BODEGAS NODUS<br />
BODEGAS NODUS MAKES<br />
ROSÉS IN A VARIETY OF<br />
STYLES TO MEET DIFFERENT<br />
CONSUMER TASTES<br />
40 SPRING 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
SPAIN<br />
EXPORT<br />
in the first quarter of the year, ahead of the<br />
summer season.<br />
RODRIGO ESPINOSA, THE WINEMAKER<br />
AT BODEGAS MARQUÉS DEL ATRIO<br />
There is no denying that demand for rosé wine<br />
has constantly increased over the past few<br />
years, adds Donnan, particularly in markets<br />
like Holland and Germany. Bobal, with its<br />
low alcohol content and good acidity, appeals<br />
to international palates. Also, the short, cold<br />
macerations and saignee method used by the<br />
winery produce wines that are very fresh yet<br />
also offer up volume on the palate, and these<br />
qualities are something present-day consumers<br />
value.<br />
BODEGAS MARQUÉS DEL ATRIO,<br />
WHERE ROSÉ MEETS INTENSITY<br />
According to Eduardo Peña, marketing director<br />
at Bodegas Marqués del Atrio, the reason why<br />
rosés have always been confined to “local<br />
consumption” in Spain is because they have<br />
never developed a full-fledged identity or robust<br />
reputation. That is, until now, with a radical<br />
change in direction.<br />
The rosés crafted by Marqués del Atrio receive<br />
the same care and attention as their red and<br />
white counterparts, proudly displaying their<br />
aromatic intensity. The nose delivers an<br />
explosion of fruit aromas where red berries<br />
are entwined with citrus perfumes and a dash<br />
of flowers. Volume and freshness adorn the<br />
palate. These features stem partly from the<br />
choice of cold fermentation, which maximises<br />
aromatic integrity, after the fruit has gone<br />
direct-to-press.<br />
ROSÉS ACCOUNT FOR 7 % OF PRODUCTION<br />
AT BODEGAS MARQUÉS DEL ATRIO<br />
This “more modern” style resonates with preferences<br />
expressed in recent times in the global<br />
marketplace, stresses Peña. Although sales of<br />
rosé account for a marginal 5% of total exports,<br />
the percentage is bound to increase due to<br />
the rise in importer countries, adds Peña.<br />
Yesterday’s Germany and the United Kingdom<br />
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41
SPAIN<br />
EXPORT<br />
have now been joined by the United States<br />
and Mexico, along with Asia, even though the<br />
pandemic did put a damper on exports.<br />
BODEGAS TEMPORE, GRENACHE,<br />
WHAT ELSE?<br />
THE TEAM AT BODEGAS TEMPORE<br />
Bodegas Tempore was the first to conquer<br />
international markets with its organic<br />
Grenache so it was only natural that the<br />
winery should choose the variety to make its<br />
rosés. “The choice of single varietal Grenache<br />
is a meaningful aspect of our identity”, admits<br />
Paula Yago Aznar, the winery’s owner, “along<br />
with our commitment to the environment and<br />
biodynamic farming”. Obviously, of paramount<br />
importance too is the unique terroir of the<br />
Lower Aragon region, with its limestone and<br />
mineral soils.<br />
Here, Grenache thrives and the variety is<br />
conducive to producing “very fruity, aromatic,<br />
elegant and fresh rosés, that work equally well<br />
for newbies as they do for the more demanding<br />
consumers”, explains Yago. These traits<br />
offer differentiation in overseas markets where<br />
demand is increasingly strong. Although rosés<br />
make up only a small share of production (8%),<br />
there is no denying that exports are flying<br />
high. Traditional markets, such as Belgium<br />
and Holland, have now been joined by other<br />
importer countries such as the United States<br />
and Central Europe.<br />
The rosés at Bodegas Tempore are extremely<br />
fruit-focused with very appealing, rich<br />
aromatics, length on the palate and freshness,<br />
none of which is a mere accident. The fruit is<br />
selected in the vineyard and harvested early “to<br />
preserve ideal acidity levels”, says Yago. Once<br />
at the winery, it goes direct-to-press in order<br />
to avoid contact between the must and the<br />
skins and produce a unique, subtle coral hue,<br />
which is every bit as appealing as the colour of<br />
Provence rosés!<br />
42 SUMMER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
PAULA YAGO AND HER<br />
BROTHER VICTOR<br />
CURRENTLY RUN THE<br />
FAMILY ESTATE<br />
WORK IN THE WINERY IS<br />
CONDUCTED IN THE MOST<br />
NATURAL WAY POSSIBLE AT<br />
BODEGAS TEMPORE<br />
A TIGHT-KNIT TEAM TO<br />
SHOWCASE YECLA’S<br />
HERITAGE AT BODEGAS<br />
CANDELA<br />
SPRING 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
43
BROTHERS ANTONIO<br />
AND AL<strong>FR</strong>EDO CANDELA<br />
AND THEIR FATHER,<br />
WHO PASSED AWAY IN 2015<br />
BODEGAS ANTONIO CANDELA, MONASTRELL AS<br />
AN HEIRLOOM<br />
In its high-elevation vineyards in Yecla, this family has been growing Monastrell<br />
– aka Mourvèdre – for four generations. The variety acts as a mirror to<br />
its quality terroir and the winery’s rosés inevitably pay homage to this native<br />
grape. The wines show aromas of red fruits and flowers as well as a rounded,<br />
silky palate. Just like the other wineries surveyed, Bodegas Antonio Candela<br />
has also witnessed an increase in its exports of rosé, prompting the company<br />
to expand its portfolio, explains its export manager, Esther Muñoz Iniesta.<br />
By using short soaking, the winery produces a pale pink colour that aligns<br />
with current trends. The rosés ferment at low temperatures in stainless steel<br />
tanks and every step is taken to underscore the freshness of the aromas. The<br />
winery’s impressive track record illustrates that the boom in Spanish rosés<br />
is not confined to the regions traditionally associated with this style of wine,<br />
including Navarre and Rioja. Their popularity is widespread, allowing Spanish<br />
rosés to establish a firm foothold in the international marketplace. And for<br />
Bardolino and Provence, the warning salvo has been fired!<br />
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BULGARIA<br />
A NEW CHAPTER FOR WINE<br />
BY IVO VARBANOV AND THE<br />
BULGARIAN ASSOCIATION OF<br />
INDEPENDENT WINEGROWERS -<br />
GILBERT & GAILLARD<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS:<br />
COURTESY OF THE ESTATES<br />
Change is afoot in the vineyards of Bulgaria, after many years of soul-searching.<br />
As the country re-emerges on the international wine scene, we take a closer look<br />
at the potential of its native grapes, which thrive alongside its well-established<br />
collection of international varietals.<br />
VILLA MELNIK WINERY<br />
LÉGENDES<br />
SUMMER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
45
ROSÉ BY ROSALEA WINERY<br />
THE VINEYARDS AT KAPATOVO<br />
The revolution and development of the Bulgarian wine industry has begun. It all started<br />
in the late 1990s with the development of a clutch of new estates. New vineyards were<br />
planted and wineries built, in some cases with EU funding. There are now 400+ wineries<br />
registered, and the number continues to climb year-on-year.<br />
A WINE MAP IN TRANSITION…<br />
Legal definitions enacted in 1960 divided Bulgaria into five main wine regions, each one with<br />
different and unique soil types, specific grape varieties as well as climatic conditions. The<br />
regions were, the Danube Plain, the Black Sea Coast, the Rose Valley, the Thracian Valley and<br />
Struma Valley. However since August 16, 2005, the country has been divided into two main<br />
regions to produce Protected Geographic Indication wines or PGIs: PGI Danube Plain (25%<br />
of total area under vine) and PGI Thracian Lowlands (75% of total acreage), where the Balkan<br />
Mountains were used as a natural border to split the country into the Northern and Southern<br />
regions. Many wine professionals still refer to the five wine regions pre-2005 when talking<br />
about wine. There is currently a movement led by local wine professionals, the media and<br />
winegrowers’ associations supporting the idea of dividing Bulgaria back into five regions,<br />
or even into nine regions: North-West, Danube Plain, North Black Sea Coast, South Black<br />
Sea Coast, East Thracian Valley, West Thracian Valley, Rose Valley, Sakar, and Struma Valley.<br />
WINEMAKING<br />
Bulgaria is now fairly well-versed in modern winemaking techniques, for example using<br />
temperature controlled stainless steel fermenters. The wines can be aged in a variety of<br />
French, American, Hungarian and Bulgarian oak barrels. Bulgaria adopted the concept<br />
of terroir rather late, after 2000. Today, most of the new wineries produce wines from<br />
their own vineyards. Yields are still low since most of the vineyards are young and not<br />
at their peak.<br />
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BULGARIA<br />
DISCOVERY<br />
BULGARIAN OAK<br />
Bulgarian oak is tight-grained with a fine texture<br />
and soft, deep tannins. The chemical composition of<br />
this material is close to French oak from Limousin.<br />
The latest vintages of some wines using Bulgarian<br />
oak have shown great results, delivering dry and<br />
earth-driven red wines with moderate extraction<br />
from the oak without dominating the wine.<br />
SUNGURLARE WINERY<br />
VARIETAL RANGE<br />
Wine producers have been focussing on producing<br />
single varietal wines from international cultivars<br />
with a clear and specific organoleptic profile.<br />
Blends often act as signature wines for wineries.<br />
The ratio of international to local varietals is 70%<br />
to 30%. Bulgaria takes pride in producing serious<br />
wines from international varietals, which allow it<br />
to benchmark with other iterations worldwide.<br />
However, local grapes are slowly making their<br />
way into the very diverse Bulgarian wine industry.<br />
VILLA MELNIK WINERY<br />
DIMYAT<br />
The exact origins of the Dimyat grape are unknown.<br />
Some ampelographers believe that the vine is<br />
native to Bulgaria. The eighth most planted<br />
variety in the country, it represents nearly 5% of<br />
area under vine. Recent DNA research has shown<br />
it to be a crossing of Gouais Blanc – a parent to<br />
varieties such as Chardonnay, Aligoté, Auxerrois<br />
and Colombard – with another, unidentified<br />
grape variety. Dimyat produces fresh, lightly<br />
herbal, neutral wines with medium body and<br />
high acidity, acting as a backbone to the wines.<br />
Dimyat vineyards can be found on the Black Sea<br />
Coast and the Danube Plain. In terms of aroma, it<br />
shows a fruity bouquet with apple and lemon. The<br />
palate often has floral and herbaceous notes. Due<br />
to its high acidity, it is well suited to producing<br />
high-quality distillates.<br />
RED MISKET<br />
Despite the name, this is a white varietal with a<br />
pink skin. It is a late-ripening, cool climate grape<br />
covering over 7% of total vineyard area. It is not<br />
part of the Muscat family, although often as a wine<br />
it is blended with Muscat Ottonel. The Rose Valley<br />
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BULGARIA<br />
DISCOVERY<br />
is its main home, and was named after the famous<br />
Rosa damascena (commonly known as Bulgarian<br />
rose or Damask rose) used for rose oil production.<br />
Red Misket wines have a clear pale-straw colour<br />
with green shades. When fermented dry, the variety<br />
develops rich floral aromas and hints of yellow and<br />
tropical fruits. There are also nuances of rose petals<br />
and sweet violet on the finish. Red Misket wines are<br />
medium to medium plus in body with exceptional<br />
balance and well-integrated acidity.<br />
THE VINEYARDS AT ORBELIA<br />
MELNIK<br />
There are two different clones of this variety:<br />
Broadleafed Melnik and Early Melnik, also<br />
known as Melnik 55, a crossing between the local<br />
Broadleafed Melnik and the French, early ripening<br />
Valdiguié. The first cultivar has become the<br />
signature grape varietal of the Struma River Valley,<br />
covering 2% of total vineyard acreage nationwide.<br />
When young, the wines offer under-ripe black fruit,<br />
spices, liquorice and very pronounced crushed black<br />
pepper, with in some places volcanic rocks and flint<br />
in the aromatic profile. In recent times “Blanc de<br />
Noir” styles have emerged, delivering outstanding<br />
results for traditional method sparkling wine.<br />
THE VINEYARDS AT KAPATOVO<br />
MAVRUD<br />
The name Mavrud probably originates from the<br />
Greek word “mavro” which means “black” and<br />
referred to the grape’s blueish-black skin colour<br />
Mavrud is an old, red grape variety that has<br />
been grown in Bulgaria since ancient times. The<br />
birthplace of Mavrud is the area around the city<br />
of Plovdiv in the Western part of the PGI Thracian<br />
Lowlands. Most Mavrud vineyards remain in<br />
its birthplace, followed by the Southern Black Sea<br />
Coast, Sakar, and the Struma Valley. It covers 2%<br />
of Bulgaria’s area under vine. Wines made from<br />
Mavrud vary in style, depending on their terroir<br />
and yields. Mavrud wines develop gracefully when<br />
aged in oak. Mavrud works very well in blends with<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah.<br />
RUBIN<br />
Rubin is a successful crossing between Syrah and<br />
Nebbiolo and was created in 1944 at the Pleven<br />
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BULGARIA<br />
DISCOVERY<br />
Institute of Viticulture and Oenology. It is planted<br />
mainly in the Plovdiv area and in other parts of<br />
the Thracian Lowlands and the Danube Plain.<br />
The varietal is often described as a man wearing<br />
a suit and cowboy boots. As the name suggests,<br />
wines from Rubin have a deep ruby colour and<br />
typical aroma of berries, spices, and herbs. It<br />
can be enjoyed young and in the right terroir, can<br />
produce age-worthy wines. Wines from Rubin<br />
have recently gained considerable popularity in<br />
the Bulgarian market and abroad. Some Bulgarian<br />
wineries have recently produced blends<br />
of Mavrud and Rubin to express the synergy<br />
between these two cherished varietals. Rubin has<br />
not yet shown its full potential and is expected to<br />
become an emblematic varietal for Bulgaria in the<br />
coming years.<br />
THE VINEYARDS AT RUPEL WINERY<br />
EAST-EUROPEAN VARIETALS<br />
TAMIANKA<br />
Tamianka is one of the many synonyms for<br />
Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains. Its name is due to<br />
the distinctive aromas of incense and burnt tar.<br />
It offers promising results, even in the Southern<br />
regions of Bulgaria, but the Northern regions<br />
still offer an element of freshness and elegance.<br />
Off-dry styles are common. Tamianka wine shows<br />
layered aromas of ripe fruit, flowers, and spices.<br />
Single vineyard Tamianka wines from Sakar have<br />
served as a flagship wine for the aromatic whites<br />
of the country.<br />
THE VINEYARDS AT BOROVITZA<br />
GAMZA<br />
Gamza is the local name of Kadarka, an old<br />
Eastern European variety, more suited to cool<br />
climates to preserve its freshness. It is planted<br />
in Northern Bulgaria, mostly in the Danube Plain<br />
and shows at its best in low-cropping vineyards.<br />
It is among the most aromatic and vibrant of all<br />
of Bulgaria’s indigenous varietals. Its wines are<br />
multi-layered and sophisticated, with savoury,<br />
herbal and berry notes. They are medium bodied<br />
and tend to be supported by enough freshness<br />
to carry a long finish and exceptional ageing<br />
capa bilities.<br />
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BULGARIA<br />
DISCOVERY<br />
RIKAT<br />
Rikat is the local name of the Rkatsiteli grape.<br />
Although not originally from Bulgaria, this is<br />
the most planted white grape in the country. It<br />
is mostly used in white wine blends, with single<br />
varietals quite rare.<br />
RUEN<br />
Ruen is an almost-extinct cross between<br />
Broadleafed Melnik and Cabernet Sauvignon. It<br />
was created in Pleven, Bulgaria in 1951 and officially<br />
released in 1964. Ruen has only been planted<br />
in the Struma Valley.<br />
THE VINEYARDS AT BOROVITZA<br />
BOUQUET<br />
Bouquet is a red variety selected in 1951 in an experimental<br />
vineyard by crossing Mavrud and Pinot Noir.<br />
PAMID<br />
Pamid was in the past the most planted grape in<br />
Bulgaria, consumed as a table grape and also used<br />
to make wine. It was planted on the entire Balkan<br />
Peninsula, under several different names. Wines<br />
from Pamid are light in colour and reasonably<br />
good for immediate consumption. Pamid is also<br />
suitable for blends and rosé wines.<br />
THE BRATANOV FAMILY - <strong>FR</strong>OM RIGHT TO LEFT, HRISTO BRATANOV, TANYA AVRAMOVA<br />
AND DANIEL BRATANOV - THE OWNERS OF BRATANOV WINERY, SALES TEAM AND<br />
WINEMAKER (MARIA STOEVA, FAR LEFT)<br />
These are very exciting times for the country’s<br />
wine industry. We have selected a number of<br />
wineries that illustrate the different terroirdriven<br />
offerings and use of native grape varieties<br />
across Bulgaria.<br />
BOROVITZA<br />
If you are looking for an original Bulgarian wine,<br />
look no further than this winery in the village of<br />
Borovitza; its unique character borders on extravagance.<br />
The winery was established by two of the<br />
most capable and strong-willed Bulgarian winemakers,<br />
Ognyan Tsvetanov and Adriana Srebrinova.<br />
The major varieties grown are Chardonnay,<br />
Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Gamza, Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon and Merlot. Its top-rated label is the<br />
blended red, Dux – a truly inspiring wine.<br />
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CHÂTEAU AVLI’S OWNER<br />
(IVO IVANOV, FOURTH <strong>FR</strong>OM<br />
LEFT TO RIGHT) WITH HIS TEAM &<br />
<strong>FR</strong>IENDS AT DIVINO.TASTE<br />
IVO VARBANOV<br />
BRATANOV WINERY<br />
Bratanov Winery is a typical family enterprise – a dream come true for a father and his<br />
two sons. Over the years, their wines Tamianka Shishmanovo Vineyards, Chardonnay Sur<br />
Lie, Syrah Sans Barrique, as well as the premium wines from the 3-BLEND and the Private<br />
Reserve line, have become icons for the cellar. The Young Merlot from Shishmanovo has been<br />
a favourite of wine lovers, and has a noble cause in preserving the Imperial Eagle.<br />
CHÂTEAU AVLI<br />
Château Avli is located in the village of Glushnik, in the Sliven region. The varieties grown are<br />
Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Caladoc, Syrah, Muscat, Pinot Grigio,<br />
Gewürztraminer and Viognier. Château Avli continues to develop the Glushnik brand line, produced<br />
from its own vineyards, encapsulated by light, fruity and fresh white wines and rosé, as well as<br />
aromatic, full-bodied and mature red.<br />
IVO VARBANOV<br />
Ivo Varbanov is a classical concert pianist, living in London, who decided to grow a vineyard in<br />
his native country. In 2005, he purchased 13 ha of land, and from 2006 he started planting. Using<br />
organic agricultural practices, the vineyards naturally have small yields. Ivo Varbanov produces<br />
between 25,000 and 30,000 bottles depending on the vintage. His wines are exported and distributed<br />
in Europe, Asia, and the USA, and the main clients are either Michelin starred restaurants<br />
or wine connoisseurs.<br />
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BULGARIA<br />
DISCOVERY<br />
THE VINEYARDS AT ROSALEA<br />
Varbanov is the first Bulgarian member of the<br />
Académie Internationale du Vin.<br />
KAPATOVO<br />
The first vintage wines under the Kapatovo label were<br />
launched in the Bulgarian market in 2009. Varieties<br />
grown include Chardonnay, Viognier, Sauvignon<br />
Blanc, Syrah, Marselan, Petit Verdot and Primitivo,<br />
as well as the recently planted Grenache, Mourvedre<br />
and Carignan. Kapatovo owns French barriques and<br />
produces limited series of white and red still wines<br />
in bottles and Tetra Pak packaging. Since the 2017<br />
vintage Kapatovo has also produced rosé wine.<br />
ORBELIA WINERY<br />
ORBELIA<br />
Orbelia owns 12 ha of vineyards in the Petrich region,<br />
planted with the Sandanski Misket, Broadleaved<br />
Melnik, Early Melnik, Rubin, Cabernet Sauvignon,<br />
Cabernet Franc and Merlot varieties. The winery<br />
predominantly produces still, dry wines, with a focus<br />
on the typical south-western varieties of Sandanski<br />
Misket and Melnik. The brands marketed are Orbelia<br />
and Via Aristotelis.<br />
ROSALEA<br />
Rosalea grows 8 hectares of vineyards on the gentle<br />
slopes of Sakar, not far from the town of Harmanli,<br />
with the grape varieties Cabernet Sauvignon,<br />
Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Chardonnay, Mavrud and<br />
Rubin. Rosalea’s team focuses on growing and<br />
fermenting other Bulgarian and Balkan varieties with<br />
perseverance and patience.<br />
RUPEL WINERY & VINEYARDS<br />
RUPEL WINERY<br />
The Rupel Winery was established in 2005 with the<br />
planting of the first vines. The winemaker is Spiro<br />
Stoyanov, from the town of Petrich. The winery<br />
specialises in white, rosé and dry red wines, with<br />
a particular focus on varietal wines, from the local<br />
Melnik 55, unique to the region, to several international<br />
varieties. Rupel offers tastings and visits.<br />
VILLA MELNIK<br />
Villa Melnik was ranked #39 among the Top 50<br />
World’s Best Vineyards in 2020. The family-owned<br />
estate is situated near the village of Harsovo, some<br />
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THE VINEYARDS AT<br />
CHÂTEAU AVLI<br />
THE CHORBADZHIYSKI<br />
FAMILY, OWNERS OF<br />
ORBELIA WINERY<br />
ZAARA ESTATE<br />
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THE ZIKATANOV FAMILY,<br />
OWNERS OF VILLA MELNIK<br />
ZLATEN ROZHEN<br />
6 km south of Melnik. The winery’s mission is to reveal the strength of the Melnik<br />
terroir. Villa Melnik’s wines trade under the brands of AplauZ, Bergulé, Orange Wine,<br />
Sweet Wine, Young&Crazy and Family Tradition. The winery provides excellent opportunities<br />
for wine tourism and is open to visitors every day.<br />
ZAARA ESTATE<br />
Zaara Estate, a family-owned winery with a hotel, restaurant and relaxation centre,<br />
opened in 2018. It is situated on the high hill above the Glavan in the Sakar Mountain.<br />
The driving force behind the wines is a Bulgarian-Italian tandem of winemakers –<br />
Slavey Paunov and Giovanni Colunatti; they seek a fine balance between the ancient<br />
local terroir and the latest winemaking practices. The estate also provides excellent<br />
opportunities for wine tourism; the complex has a special tasting room.<br />
ZLATEN ROZHEN<br />
The history of the cellar began in 2010 with the purchase of several small vineyards<br />
and the construction of a boutique hotel in the village of Rozhen. The villages<br />
of Kapatovo and Levunovo are home to 80 ha of owned vineyards planted with<br />
Sandanski Misket, Melnik 55, Melnishki Rubin, Shiroka Melnishka Loza, Syrah,<br />
Cabernet Franc, Sangiovese, Merlot, Nebbiolo, Petit Verdot and Mourvèdre.<br />
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MERCIER VINE NURSERY<br />
<strong>FR</strong>OM VINE ROOTS TO WINE<br />
GLASSES!<br />
BY SYLVAIN PATARD<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS:<br />
GILBERT & GAILLARD –<br />
GROUPE MERCIER<br />
Nurseries are probably one of the least publicised aspects of the wine industry. And<br />
yet, they play a pivotal role at the production end of the entire industry, providing<br />
winegrowers across the globe with international cultivars, massal selections and<br />
resistant vines. We travelled to Vix in the Vendée, the home of the Mercier vine<br />
nursery whose expertise spans over 130 years, to find out more about a profession<br />
that nurtures the entire wine industry.<br />
MIGUEL MERCIER AT THE 70-HECTARE FAMILY ESTATE IN VIX EN VENDÉE<br />
LÉGENDES<br />
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DISCOVERY<br />
NURSERY<br />
A VINEYARD HOUSE WITH AN EVOCATIVE NAME FOR<br />
MERCIER - VILLA DES RAISINS<br />
The company’s current incumbents are brothers<br />
Guillaume, Frantz and Miguel, who<br />
took over the torch from their father Jean-Pierre.<br />
It was Jean-Pierre’s belief that healthy plants were<br />
essential and he therefore established the analysis<br />
laboratory that has since become a research and<br />
development department. The selection centre<br />
focuses on identifying ancient and new grape varieties.<br />
The company’s excellence in providing an<br />
extensive choice of varieties in prime condition<br />
has gradually enabled it to export to over 30 wine<br />
producing countries.<br />
A FAMILY BUSINESS TURNED<br />
INTERNATIONAL GROUP<br />
Mercier also has a 70-hectare vineyard producing<br />
wines that are all sold direct-to-consumer, most<br />
of them white wines made from Chenin, Sauvignon<br />
and Chardonnay. There are also rosés from<br />
Cabernet Franc and Gamay, along with reds from<br />
Cabernet though also Ragoûtant, the local name<br />
for Négrette. This 360° vision of the industry encompassing<br />
both activities is charmingly described<br />
by Miguel in an interview with him: “Our role<br />
goes from the vine roots to the wine glass”. Here’s<br />
what Miguel Mercier had to say to us.<br />
METICULOUS PREPARATION OF BOTH THE SOILS AND THE VINES AVOIDS ANY<br />
UNPLEASANT SURPRISES<br />
G&G: Let’s start with an important topic:<br />
massal selection, which is deemed to<br />
have many qualities. What is your vision of<br />
the technique and what are its advantages?<br />
Miguel Mercier: First of all, I should point out that<br />
it does not necessarily conflict with clonal selection.<br />
With massal selection, the major difference<br />
is that our aim is to reproduce a group of individuals<br />
and not one individual with a single genetic<br />
heritage. It is the epitome of diversity which we<br />
can further enhance by seeking out individuals of<br />
the same species but in very different places, not<br />
just in the same block. Then there is the health aspect.<br />
By propagating anything and everything, we<br />
began to spread viruses such as grapevine fanleaf<br />
virus – particularly in the post-war period – and<br />
considerably diminish the quality of vineyards,<br />
which in fact led to the solution of cloning.<br />
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THE SAME TIME-HONOURED TECHNIQUES<br />
CHENIN BLANC, THE LOIRE VALLEY’S ICONIC<br />
GRAPE VARIETY<br />
PINOT NOIR VINES SOON READY FOR THEIR NEW LIFE<br />
In order to explore the massal aspect, fifteen years ago we launched a research programme<br />
in a wide variety of regions. Dubbed Unik, the selection groups up to 12 genotypes<br />
that are characteristic of their selection location, and express great diversity<br />
between them. To give you an idea of the scale of the task – we only began marketing<br />
them recently.<br />
You will find details of the programme, which is perfectly suited to present-day requirements<br />
particularly from a health perspective, on pages 59.<br />
In practical terms, what are the guidelines for planting the perfect vineyard?<br />
M. M.: The first rule you should comply with is to plan ahead. This brings us back to preparing<br />
the soils, but also placing an order with the vine nursery which should be done<br />
way in advance so as to avoid any delivery delays, for example. You should also analyse<br />
the soil in the relevant block in order to give it the care it needs. Then, you should<br />
plan the organic fertiliser that should be applied early enough so that it can become<br />
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57
DISCOVERY<br />
NURSERY<br />
mineralised before the vines are planted. Obviously, the choice of grape variety<br />
should be suited to the soil and discussing this with the nursery operator beforehand<br />
can be worthwhile. Before planting, the soil structure should be fine-tuned,<br />
by breaking the lumps for example, which avoids creating air pockets. Then, of<br />
course you need to water the vines to seal them properly into the ground.<br />
Another essential rule is mechanical soil maintenance. Tillage is required to avoid<br />
the spread of plants and grasses that compete with vines and to aerate the soil.<br />
Finally, young vineyards need to be protected against fungal diseases like powdery<br />
and downy mildew, so plant protection is required for as long as possible.<br />
If from a very early age vines are affected, they will struggle to enter a new cycle<br />
the following spring. Vines with the strongest canes get off to a better start the<br />
following spring. The amount of work you put into a young vine will be rewarded<br />
one hundred times over subsequently.<br />
G&G: When is the best time to plant?<br />
M. M.: Vines can be planted from November onwards in regions where the winters<br />
are fairly mild, which for the past few years means almost everywhere. If not,<br />
from April-May to avoid frost. In Atlantic regions, like the damper South-West<br />
part of France, you can plant until June, but that’s really the very latest.<br />
MIGUEL MERCIER IN ONE OF THE PRODUCTION GREENHOUSES<br />
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UNIK*:<br />
EXCEPTIONAL MASSAL SELECTIONS<br />
This ambitious programme was developed by Mercier to reach the highest standards and avoid virtually every risk. Through the Unik process,<br />
Novatech Sélection – the Mercier group’s in-house laboratory – provides extremely high quality massal selections with the ability to produce topflight,<br />
distinctive and complex wines that “engage the emotions, without any health or agricultural risks”.<br />
THREE SHINING EXAMPLES OF MASSAL SELECTION AS PART OF THE UNIK PROGRAMME: CABERNET <strong>FR</strong>ANC, CHENIN AND MERLOT. THESE MAJOR<br />
VARIETIES FOR THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH AND GLOBAL WINE INDUSTRY ACCOUNT FOR HUNDREDS OF THOUSANDS OF HECTARES UNDER VINE<br />
The selection has always allowed winegrowing to make huge<br />
strides in terms of agronomic and winemaking precision.<br />
Massal selections – as mentioned above in the interview with<br />
Miguel Mercier – are extremely worthwhile and complement<br />
clonal selection. Obviously, they promote genetic diversity and<br />
counterbalance standardisation. However, it is important not<br />
to overlook the fact that not all selections produce better wines<br />
than the benchmark clones and, more importantly, some can<br />
lead to a resurgence in major health issues that were thought to<br />
have been eradicated. Neither is an old vine or one that is different<br />
from a clone necessarily suited to present-day growing<br />
conditions and agronomic and winemaking requirements.<br />
Miguel Mercier describes the contents of the Unik programme.<br />
“The first step is the survey: for each variety that joins the programme,<br />
we draw up specifications which precisely define the<br />
aims of the massal selection. Then our agricultural engineers<br />
tour the oldest vineyards looking for potentially eligible vines.<br />
The survey phase covers an extensive area, guaranteeing<br />
broad-ranging genetic diversity. Several hundreds of vines are<br />
selected during this first stage.<br />
Then come the health analyses – the staff at the Novatech analysis<br />
department conduct systematic PCR health tests on all the<br />
eligible vines. Only those that are virus-free continue through<br />
the selection process.<br />
The following stage is the agronomic assessment – the healthy<br />
eligible vines are propagated and planted on several assessment<br />
blocks which include one or more benchmark clones. The<br />
aim is to conduct a comparative agronomic evaluation to identify<br />
and characterise those that meet the objectives.<br />
The final step is the winemaking assessment – after the agronomic<br />
evaluation, the selected vines are used to make small batches<br />
of wines and professional experts of the particular variety assess<br />
the winemaking potential of the ongoing selection.<br />
Consequently, if, and only if, the initial objectives are attained does<br />
the massal selection join the Unik catalogue so that it can be propagated<br />
for winegrowers. Importantly, several years of research<br />
and assessments are required to create a Unik massal selection”.<br />
The advantages of this process:<br />
• It produces distinctive wines: from a vineyard block, a site.<br />
Massal selections increase the organoleptic complexity of the<br />
resultant wines.<br />
• It increases a winery’s genetic diversity: due to the large number<br />
of vines it comprises, massal selection increases diversity<br />
and helps preserve the shared genetic heritage.<br />
• It avoids all health and agricultural risks: the vines incorporated<br />
into the Unik programme are tested and guaranteed to<br />
be free of the main vine viruses. They have been the subject of<br />
several years of agronomic and winemaking assessments to<br />
confirm their characteristics are superior to the benchmark<br />
clone(s) and to the desired objectives.<br />
The programme pinpoints the challenges of renewing a vineyard<br />
and most importantly its choice of more reliable plant material<br />
that has the ability to provide top-flight organoleptic qualities.<br />
For the moment, nine varieties are available in the range:<br />
Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carménère, Chenin, Cot,<br />
Grenache Noir, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Sauvignon Blanc.<br />
* Unik selections are owned by Mercier Novatech and are propagated exclusively<br />
by licensed nursery operators.<br />
Don’t miss the next part of this feature report in our next Autumn 2023 issue: the key topic of resistant grape varieties<br />
SUMMER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
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SOAVE , WHERE TRADITION AND<br />
BIODIVERSITY ARE RISING TO THE<br />
CHALLENGES OF THE FUTURE<br />
BY <strong>FR</strong>ANCESCO SAVERIO RUSSO<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS:<br />
COURTESY OF THE ESTATES<br />
The Soave vineyard hills were recently included among the Globally Important<br />
Agricultural Heritage Systems sites and are one of the main production areas for<br />
Italian white wine. Home to the appellation’s signature grape Garganega, along<br />
with Trebbiano di Soave, the region is unique in terms of tradition and biodiversity.<br />
We drill down on its specifics.<br />
<strong>FR</strong>OM THE OUTSET, BERTANI HAS USED THE MOST ADVANCED PRODUCTION TECHNIQUES, BOTH IN THE VINEYARD AND THE WINERY,<br />
AT ALL OF ITS PROPERTIES, <strong>FR</strong>OM VALPANTENA TO SOAVE, SHOWING TOTAL RESPECT FOR THE REGION<br />
60 SUMMER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
ITALY<br />
APPELLATION<br />
CORTE ADAMI BOASTS SIZEABLE ACREAGE IN ONE OF SOAVE’S MOST IMPORTANT UGAS, CASTELCERINO<br />
The Soave DOC wine region is located in the province of Verona, below the Lessini<br />
mountains, on the border with the province of Vicenza. The area has ancient winegrowing<br />
traditions which were recognised in 1931 through the first defined area for<br />
the production of ‘Vino Tipico Soave’, on the basis of which the Soave Classico DOC<br />
appellation was created in 1968.<br />
Today, wines produced according to the regulations are Soave DOC, Soave Classico<br />
DOC, Soave Superiore DOCG, and Recioto di Soave DOCG:<br />
- Soave DOC is produced both as a still and sparkling wine (minimum 70% Garganega<br />
and 30% Trebbiano di Soave or Chardonnay. A maximum of 5% of other white grapes<br />
traditionally grown in the area is allowed.)<br />
- Soave Classico is the designation’s most historic area, located in the hills between<br />
Soave and Monteforte d’Alpone. The soil is mainly a basalt matrix with limestone<br />
outcrops, resulting in more complex wines.<br />
- Soave Colli Scaligeri is produced in the hills of the same name that form a sort of<br />
horseshoe around Soave Classico and represent a more recent wine region.<br />
- Soave Superiore DOCG is at the top of the quality pyramid, produced with 70% Garganega<br />
and 30% Trebbiano di Soave. It is grown across the Soave Classico and Soave<br />
Colli Scaligeri areas, although when certain requirements are met, Soave Doc grapes<br />
may also be classed as Superiore. Yields are reduced to 10 tons per hectare and the<br />
minimum alcohol content is increased to 12% for Superiore and 12.5% for Superiore<br />
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TIME AND WOOD ARE IMPORTANT<br />
ALLIES FOR THE WINES PRODUCED<br />
BY BERTANI, BUT REGIONAL<br />
IDENTITY ALWAYS PREVAILS<br />
OVER STYLE<br />
Riserva. Superiore wines cannot be sold until April of the year following the harvest,<br />
and Riserva wines cannot be sold until November, or about a year after the harvest.<br />
The typical vine training system is the Veronese pergola system. Although this system<br />
has been superseded in many new plantings by the guyot espalier system, it is proving<br />
to be interesting in the fight against climate change.<br />
The Soave area embraces thirteen localities spread over four valleys: Val d’Alpone, Val<br />
Tramigna, Val d’Illasi and Val di Mezzane. A further geological and pedological division<br />
can be made between the volcanic hills, calcareous hills, plains of volcanic origin, and<br />
calcareous plains.<br />
Soave is one of the volcanic territories, and the soils are variable: they range from black<br />
soils to red soils richer in iron oxide, from very poor soils to very fertile soils, from<br />
basalts to clays with calcareous outcrops.<br />
Recent territorial zoning has led to the inclusion in the specifications of 33 UGAs<br />
(added geographical units):<br />
Castelcerino, Fittà, Tremenalto, Corte del Durlo, Costalunga, Menini, Castellaro,<br />
Brognoligo, Costeggiola, Campagnola, Sengialta, Colombara, Foscarino, Carbonare,<br />
Rugate, Coste, Monte Grande, Pressoni, Costalta, Casarsa, Pigno, Ponsara, Froscà,<br />
Volpare, Tenda, Croce, Zoppega, Ca’ del Vento, Broia, Paradiso, Monte di Colognola,<br />
Duello, Roncà - Monte Calvarina.<br />
These ‘Crus’ have become a way of showcasing the identity of the vineyards for many<br />
important wineries, including the following.<br />
62 SUMMER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
THE BERTANI FAMILY HAVE MADE<br />
SIGNIFICANT INVESTMENTS IN<br />
THE VINEYARD AND THE WINERY<br />
IN ORDER TO BOTTLE AND<br />
EXPORT ITALIAN QUALITY WINE<br />
WORLDWIDE<br />
BERTANI<br />
Bertani, founded in 1857 in Verona by brothers Giovan Battista and Gaetano Bertani,<br />
represents a benchmark for production techniques, both for vine growing and winemaking,<br />
applied to all their estates from Valpantena to Soave. Underlying Bertani’s<br />
success is a profound knowledge and great respect for the land. Bertani has always<br />
placed the land at the centre of its project as a value and a prerequisite for all company<br />
business. The commitment has always been aimed at enhancing the characteristics of<br />
terroir to try and bring out its best qualities. Over the years, Bertani has been able to<br />
select the most prized and historically appropriate areas in the Veneto region, and for<br />
white grapes, this could only be in the Soave area.<br />
The company aims to respect the genetic heritage of the vineyards, eliminating herbicides,<br />
chemical fertilisers and systemic products to preserve biodiversity. It has a<br />
non-invasive winemaking approach which respects the identity of the wines. All this<br />
has been made possible by a passionate team that has full control of production.<br />
The company produces a Soave (which from 2022 will be Soave Classico), the Soave<br />
Original Vintage Edition – selected by the British King George VI as his coronation<br />
wine in 1937 – and the Soave Classico Sereole. Key markets are the USA, Canada,<br />
Germany and Japan. The Asia Pacific market is expanding, followed by Northern<br />
Europe. Potential new markets include Africa and the Middle East.<br />
VILLA ERBICE<br />
The company was founded by ‘grandfather’ Narciso in 1900. The name derives from<br />
the 17 th century villa where the company is based. Villa Erbice is a family-run business<br />
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63
ITALY<br />
APPELLATION<br />
with the brothers Luca and Massimo (4th generation) and their father Silvio all playing<br />
a leading role. Each has their own area of responsibility: care of the vineyard, cellar,<br />
marketing and public relations, but they all work closely together to oversee the winery<br />
as a whole. The company produces wine entirely from its own 8 hectares of land in the<br />
Val di Mezzane, about 20 km east of Verona.<br />
Procedures in the vineyards are kept to a minimum in a bid to achieve an ideal and<br />
sustainable balance. Silvio, Luca and Massimo’s daily work is defined by dedication,<br />
constant research and experimentation both in the field and in the cellar, rediscovering<br />
and adapting long abandoned practices and techniques that fell into disuse in favour<br />
of modernity and innovation.<br />
The vineyards, flanked by a stream, boast mainly soils of alluvial origin which is<br />
strongly calcareous and very rich in organic substance (60% silt, 25% clay, 15% sand).<br />
Villa Erbice produces two types of Soave Superiore DOCG:<br />
Soave Superiore Docg (100% Garganega) is aged in stainless steel on fine lees for 10<br />
months before bottling.<br />
THE 17 TH CENTURY VILLA<br />
VILLA ERBICE’S CELLAR IS<br />
TRADITIONALLY LAID OUT<br />
THE HISTORY OF VILLA ERBICE DATES BACK MANY YEARS, WHEN GRANDFATHER NARCISO<br />
BEGAN PRODUCING WINE IN 1900<br />
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ITALY<br />
APPELLATION<br />
Soave Superiore Docg - Panvinio (100% Garganega)<br />
is harvested slightly later than the first, then<br />
fermented in French oak barriques for 6 months and<br />
fermented for a further 4 months in stainless steel<br />
before bottling.<br />
Villa Erbice sells 30% of its wines locally in the<br />
province of Verona and exports 70% with the majority<br />
bound for Europe but some travelling to the USA<br />
and Asia.<br />
THE HISTORIC ESTATE OF ARBIZZANO DI NEGRAR<br />
TENUTA SANTA MARIA DI<br />
GAETANO BERTANI<br />
The company was established in Arbizzano di Negrar<br />
by brothers Giovanni and Guglielmo Bertani who, in<br />
memory of their father Gaetano Bertani, continue a<br />
project founded on meticulous and respectful work<br />
in the vineyard and a pioneering application of innovative<br />
practices including the use of the high-density,<br />
low-yield Guyot training system on native clones.<br />
The vineyards are SQNPI certified. Targeted tillage<br />
and sustainable vineyard practices are the basis of<br />
their production philosophy. Particular attention is<br />
paid to harvest time to ensure their wines have good<br />
acidity and structural balance.<br />
Soave is produced in Colognola ai Colli (Val d’Illasi),<br />
where some of the 20 hectares under vine are planted<br />
with Garganega grapes using the Veronese pergola<br />
training system. The soils are alluvial and composed<br />
of calcareous clay in the deepest layers and river<br />
stones, the result of fluvial deposits. The altitude is<br />
60-70 m above sea level. This is where Lepiga Soave<br />
Doc is produced, the result of 3 harvests carried<br />
out by hand, to collect grapes at 3 different stages<br />
of ripening: early harvest, harvest at peak ripeness<br />
and a final harvest of overripe fruit. In this way,<br />
elegant balance and greater aromatic complexity are<br />
achieved. The grapes are then fermented in stainless<br />
steel with batonnage on fine lees for about 90 days,<br />
before the 3 different wines are blended and bottled.<br />
Soave is exported to North America, Europe and<br />
Asia. The US market is the fastest growing and is<br />
showing renewed interest in quality Soave. Switzerland<br />
and Belgium are the most interesting European<br />
markets. In China, Soave is slowly beginning<br />
BROTHERS GIOVANNI AND GUGLIELMO BERTANI CONTINUE THE WORK OF THEIR FATHER<br />
GAETANO, WITH PROFOUND RESPECT AND GREAT CONSISTENCY<br />
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65
ITALY<br />
APPELLATION<br />
to gain a foothold, while Japan remains a key market<br />
thanks to increased knowledge and pairings with<br />
local cuisine.<br />
<strong>FR</strong>ANCESCO TESSARI IS SUPPORTED BY HIS FAMILY AND IN PARTICULAR<br />
BY HIS FATHER VALENTINO AND HIS UNCLE GIUSEPPE, WHO ARE PIVOTAL<br />
TO WORK IN THE VINEYARD<br />
I STEFANINI<br />
THE CELLAR AT I STEFANINI WAS FOUNDED AS RECENTLY AS 2003 AND IS LOCATED IN<br />
MONTEFORTE D’ALPONE<br />
A historic grape-growing family that became a wine<br />
producer, at the behest of oenologist Francesco<br />
Tessari (who was 20 years old at the time) in 2003,<br />
thanks to the family vineyards in Monteforte<br />
d’Alpone/Roncà. In the beginning, little was bottled,<br />
and most was sold in bulk. It was only after the crisis<br />
of 2008, when bulk sales began to collapse, that<br />
Francesco realised the importance of having his own<br />
brand and sales structure.<br />
To date, I Stefanini owns 18 hectares of vineyards: 3<br />
hectares in the classic zone - behind the winery - and<br />
15 hectares in the Soave Doc zone between Roncà and<br />
Peraro. In these 15 hectares, Garganega is the primary<br />
variety grown, but there is also some Durella, Chardonnay<br />
and Pinot Grigio. Production is currently<br />
around 120-130,000 bottles per year.<br />
The nickname ‘I stefanini’ dates back many years.<br />
The Tessari surname is widespread not only in the<br />
Val d’Alpone but also among Soave producers themselves.<br />
One of Francesco’s ancestors was a certain<br />
Stefano, a small man who was called Stefanino in<br />
the village because of his small stature. Over time,<br />
the whole family acquired the nickname Stefanini,<br />
hence the name of the winery.<br />
For 20 years now, Francesco has been supported<br />
in his work in the vineyard and cellar by his entire<br />
family: Dad Valentino, the agronomist; Mum<br />
Stefania, in charge of tastings; Uncle Giuseppe, who<br />
works in the vineyard, assisting Francesco and Valentino;<br />
Aunts Valeria, Maria Grazie and Luisa, who help<br />
with the grape harvest and during bottling; and wife<br />
Maristella, the sales manager for Italy.<br />
They produce 3 Soave wines: Soave Doc ‘Il Selese’;<br />
Soave Doc Classico ‘Monte de Toni’; and Soave Superiore<br />
Docg Classico ‘Monte di Fice’. The ‘Il Selese’<br />
label (100% Garganega - 100,000 bottles) comes from<br />
vineyards (1987) in the foothills with silty-clayey soils.<br />
‘Monte de Toni’ (100% Garganega - 12,000 bottles) is<br />
produced from 2 hectares of red volcanic soil, rich in<br />
66 SUMMER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
THE I CAMPI CELLAR BASED IN CELLOLE (VR) RECEIVES GRAPES<br />
PRODUCED IN THE COMPANY’S 14 HECTARES UNDER VINE THAT ARE<br />
DISTRIBUTED ACROSS THE MAJOR VERONA DESIGNATIONS<br />
YOUNG VERONA WINEMAKER FLAVIO PRÀ, WHO BOASTS<br />
NUMEROUS PRESTIGIOUS CONSULTANCIES WITH THE<br />
MOST IMPORTANT WINERIES IN VENETO AND ITALY, IS THE<br />
DRIVING FORCE BEHIND ‘I CAMPI’<br />
iron oxide. The single vineyard is located in UGA Costalunga, just below Monte di Fice. The<br />
‘Monte di Fice’ label (Garganega 100% - 6,000 bottles) is produced on black, basalt volcanic<br />
soil. It is the top wine and the one with the greatest longevity.<br />
The most important market is undoubtedly the Québec Liquor Corporation where around<br />
40,000 bottles of Selese are shipped each year. I Stefanini also exports throughout Europe,<br />
to several states in America, Japan, and recently to Australia. A total of 19 locations generate<br />
exports representing 75% of sales.<br />
I CAMPI<br />
I Campi was established in 2006 from the vision and commitment of Flavio Prà, a young<br />
winemaker from Verona whose CV boasts numerous prestigious consultancies with the<br />
most important wineries in Veneto and Italy. The winery’s 14 hectares are spread over the<br />
major designations in the Verona area and the vineyards are rooted in deep soils of varied<br />
composition that yield wines showing great character.<br />
Flavio’s philosophy is to put the varietal and regional identity embodied in each vineyard first.<br />
‘Every wine wants its land: I have searched for the land’. This phrase is the foundation and<br />
pillar of the company’s vision, i.e. the need to respect and enhance the land, starting with<br />
sustainable, non-invasive vineyard management and carefully chosen environmentally-friendly<br />
materials and processes throughout the production cycle.<br />
I Campi produces two Soave wines: Soave DOC Campo Base (100% Garganega) from both<br />
volcanic and calcareous soils; Soave DOC Classico Campo Vulcano (85% Garganega and 15%<br />
Trebbiano di Soave), a cru from volcanic soil only. Both are aged only in stainless steel but<br />
the Campo Base is a vintage wine, while the Campo Vulcano is more suited to ageing. The<br />
company produces 150,000 bottles and exports 75% to north-central Europe, North America,<br />
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67
ITALY<br />
APPELLATION<br />
THEIR FATHER ANGELO IS FOLLOWING IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF HIS<br />
GRANDFATHER, GAETANO ADAMI, THE FOUNDER OF THE WINEGROWING<br />
BUSINESS<br />
South-East Asia and Oceania, in an attempt to raise<br />
awareness of the designation in Italy and worldwide.<br />
CORTE ADAMI<br />
IN THE NEW CORTE ADAMI CELLAR IN SOAVE, THE ENTIRE WINEMAKING PROCESS IS<br />
CARRIED OUT WITH THE AIM OF PRESERVING THE INTEGRITY OF THE <strong>FR</strong>UIT’S IDENTITY<br />
Corte Adami, now in its first generation of winemakers<br />
and third generation of winegrowers, began<br />
producing Soave and Valpolicella wines in 2004 on<br />
their 40 hectares of land. Their key objective is to<br />
produce great wines which are capable of expressing<br />
and celebrating the regional qualities and heritage of<br />
the native grapes in the Veronese area.<br />
The Adami family’s children are now involved in the<br />
business with Andrea as the wine producer, Martina<br />
as the sales manager and Giulia as the administration<br />
manager, while Stefano is currently completing his<br />
oenology studies. Their father Angelo is following in<br />
the footsteps of his grandfather, Adami Gaetano, the<br />
founder of the winegrowing business.<br />
For Corte Adami, the starting point in the production<br />
of great wines lies in the vineyards. Old vines offer a<br />
great mirror to the terroir and can provide elegance<br />
and ageability in a natural way. The vineyards are<br />
located in one of the historic Cru of the Soave area:<br />
Castelcerino, at an altitude of 350 metres above sea<br />
level. The area is characterised by calcareous soil with<br />
volcanic rocks, sometimes tuffaceous, significant<br />
diurnal shift and mild temperatures even during<br />
summer evenings. The combination of these factors<br />
produces Soave wines with great minerality, incredible<br />
fragrance, acidity and elegance, with a rich<br />
bouquet of fruity and floral notes.<br />
Corte Adami produces a Soave DOC Classico (Uga<br />
Castelcerino) and a Soave Superiore DOCG (Uga<br />
Castelcerino). Its key markets for Soave are Japan<br />
and various European markets (with Germany and<br />
Belgium in first place).<br />
CADIS 1898<br />
Cadis 1898 was founded a few months ago. “The<br />
name may be new but the soul remains the same<br />
one which has guided us for 125 years in our quest to<br />
achieve the best results for the 2,000 members of our<br />
co-operative and for all those customers who have<br />
68 SUMMER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
ITALY<br />
APPELLATION<br />
been buying our bottles for years,” explains General<br />
Manager Wolfgang Raifer. Cadis 1898 is the acronym<br />
formed by the initials of the historic name Cantina<br />
di Soave, alongside the year when the group was<br />
founded: a combination of modernity and history in<br />
a broad-ranging regional project. The name Cadis<br />
1898 covers four main wineries: Cantina di Soave,<br />
Cantina di Montecchia, Cantina di Illasi and Terre<br />
al Lago. Commercially available wines include Soave<br />
branded Cantina di Soave, Valpolicella from Cantina<br />
di Illasi, Lessini Durello from Cantina di Montecchia<br />
di Crosara and Bardolino and Custoza from Terre al<br />
Lago. “The objective is to give a precise identity to<br />
each of our labels and their home regions, while at<br />
the same time pursuing what has always been our<br />
mission: to put the Scaligera designations and their<br />
regions on the map,” says Raifer.<br />
Cadis 1898’s philosophy involves a supply chain<br />
which goes from the grape to the bottle. Investments<br />
in recent years have made it possible to<br />
monitor the grapes from the vineyard to the shelf.<br />
Through Cantina di Soave, Cadis 1898 owns 48%<br />
of the vineyards in the Soave Doc production area<br />
and 43% of Soave Classico. Among the products that<br />
stand out are the Soave Classico Doc ‘cru/uga’ ‘Fittà’,<br />
the Soave Classico Doc ‘cru/uga’ ‘Castelcerino’ and<br />
the Soave Classico Doc ‘San Lorenzo’, dedicated to<br />
the patron saint of the town of Soave. There is also a<br />
Soave Doc, an organic Soave Doc, as well as the sweet<br />
version Recioto di Soave Classico Docg.<br />
Cadis 1898 has a strong presence in the domestic<br />
market in terms of revenue (66%) but continues to<br />
expand abroad. Here the key markets are Germany,<br />
England and northern Europe.<br />
VINEYARDS IN THE ADDED GEOGRAPHICAL UNIT ‘CASTELCERINO’ WHERE CADIS 1898<br />
PRODUCES ONE OF ITS SOAVE DOC WINES<br />
BORGO ROCCA SVEVA’S EXPERIMENTAL VINEYARD CLOSE TO THE CASTLE OF SOAVE<br />
WHICH IS MANAGED BY CADIS<br />
In terms of the future, the Soave appellation certainly<br />
enjoys good growth, especially abroad, where it is<br />
increasingly appreciated. Soave has not traditionally<br />
been very popular in terms of quality, but the suitability<br />
of the terroir, sustainability goals and renewed<br />
technical awareness in the vineyard and cellar are<br />
raising the bar. The region is not shying away from<br />
the challenges of the future. It can rely on biodiversity<br />
and a more positive response to climate change<br />
than in other areas, both in terms of soil and climate<br />
conditions and grape varieties.<br />
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SOUTH A<strong>FR</strong>ICA CELEBRATES<br />
ITS SUCCESS WITH<br />
SAUVIGNON BLANC<br />
BY SAMARIE SMITH-MELETIOU<br />
DIPWSET<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS:<br />
COURTESY OF THE ESTATES<br />
A global consumer lauds Sauvignon Blanc, and South Africa excels without<br />
regional constraints. The myriad styles produced here attest to its potential and<br />
exceptional ageability as passionate producers embrace the contrasting landscapes<br />
to make mystifying to boastfully aromatic wines with a burgeoning following<br />
from both ends. Hence, Sauvignon Blanc remains the country’s top-selling and<br />
most exported cultivar.<br />
FIFTH-GENERATION WINEMAKER DAVID NIEUWOUDT LEADS A PASSIONATE TEAM TO PRODUCE CHARACTERFUL SAUVIGNON<br />
BLANC <strong>FR</strong>OM THEIR ELIM COASTAL VINEYARDS AND THEIR HIGH-LYING VINEYARDS IN THE CEDERBERG<br />
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SOUTH A<strong>FR</strong>ICA<br />
GRAPE<br />
VISITORS TO DE GRENDEL IN THE DURBANVILLE WINE VALLEY CAN ENJOY VISTAS OF TABLE MOUNTAIN OR EXPERIENCE THE FARM’S NATURAL<br />
ENVIRONMENT AND CONSERVATION EFFORTS ON GUIDED FARM TOURS<br />
Pinning global Sauvignon Blanc plantings on a world map demonstrates its cunning<br />
demeanour, revealing a decorated tapestry across continents. It oscillates between<br />
elegant Loire wines, profound examples from Bordeaux and pungent styles from New<br />
Zealand. Italy, Chile, America, and Australia have also clinched some of its luminescent<br />
glory, with a country like Hungary following in the sweet steps of Sauternes.<br />
South African winegrowers bask in its popularity as plantings spread from the<br />
Northern Cape and meander across all corners of the Western Cape like Robertson,<br />
Stellenbosch and the Breedekloof. From there, it gravitates toward the coast and cool<br />
slopes of undulated valleys (Cape Town and Cape South Coast) and climbs in altitude<br />
in the continental Cederberg.<br />
BLENDING REGIONS TO BLENDING 40 COMPONENTS<br />
ON ONE FARM<br />
Undissuaded by heat, drought, and wind, Sauvignon stalwarts are applauded for their<br />
ingenuity. Owner winemaker from Aslina Wines, Ntsiki Biyela, tells how blending<br />
contrasting terroirs imbues Sauvignon Blanc with character, bringing more awareness<br />
to the country’s success with the variety. Growing up in Mahlabathini, a rural village<br />
in KwaZulu-Natal far removed from the Winelands, didn’t curb this black female’s<br />
pioneering zest in pursuing a winemaking career.<br />
«When I started making Sauvignon Blanc, I aimed for a tropical style, focusing on<br />
Stellenbosch fruit, blended with a smaller Elgin proportion to elevate it with a brush<br />
of freshness. I quickly learned how complexity is achievable through regional blending,<br />
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71
IN 2016, NTSIKI BIYELA<br />
ESTABLISHED ASLINA WINES,<br />
NAMING IT AFTER THE WOMAN<br />
WHO INSPIRED HER TO EMBRACE<br />
HER TALENTS AND DREAMS,<br />
HER GRANDMOTHER<br />
promoting the country and its intricate stories of place. Consumers are fascinated by South Africa<br />
and even more fulfilled having tasted the wines.»<br />
Its complex expression of passionfruit and capsicum awarded the Aslina Sauvignon Blanc 2021<br />
91 points by Gilbert & Gaillard, setting the bar for an incredible array of South African Sauvignon<br />
Blanc to taste.<br />
It was Klein Constantia concluding Gilbert & Gaillard’s Sauvignon Blanc tasting with a hattrick<br />
performance: Klein Constantia Pierre 2022 Sauvignon Blanc 2022 (90 points), Beau Constantia<br />
2022 reeling in double gold (92) and the older, graceful Klein Constantia Metis 2018 crowned the top<br />
performer with 95 points.<br />
Jacqueline Harris is not only the sales and marketing manager speaking on behalf of the team but an<br />
avid Sauvignon Blanc ambassador.<br />
«Our Sauvignon Blanc is an extension of our terroir and philosophy. Each vintage is built on the<br />
lessons learned from previous vintages. Consistent quality flows from a commitment to precision,<br />
understanding vineyard needs, maximising applications of organic products and biodynamic preparations<br />
and principles, minimising conventional methods and products.»<br />
Sauvignon Blanc on their cool Constantia farm grows on decomposed granite and Table Mountain<br />
sandstone, with 40 separate parcels and 13 clones utilised to produce an average of 4.4 tons/hectare.<br />
SAUVIGNON BLANC SOUTH A<strong>FR</strong>ICA<br />
The first Sauvignon Blanc vines date back to 1880 at Groot Constantia, and the oldest existing Sauvignon<br />
Blanc vineyard today is a certified heritage vineyard, planted at Spice Route’s Klein Amoskuil in<br />
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SOUTH A<strong>FR</strong>ICA<br />
GRAPE<br />
the Swartland in 1965. Through changing trends and<br />
new grape varieties gracing the scene, it retained its<br />
foothold, and with 9,987 hectares, it is the country’s<br />
second-most planted grape after plantings increased<br />
threefold between 1990 and 2022. In 2022, 14.3m<br />
litres were sold in the domestic market, and 67.7m<br />
litres were exported, packaged (18.7m litres) and bulk<br />
(49m litres).<br />
MATT DAY HAS BEEN THE WINEMAKER AT KLEIN CONSTANTIA SINCE 2012, AND CRAIG<br />
HARRIS HAS MANAGED THE VINEYARDS SINCE 2013 - A FORMIDABLE TEAM<br />
SAUVIGNON’S TERROIR TALE<br />
While Stellenbosch continues producing stellar<br />
Sauvignon Blanc with the likes of Thelema Sauvignon<br />
Blanc 2022 (90) and Zevenwacht Sauvignon<br />
Blanc 2022 (93), it now shares the limelight with<br />
newer frontiers.<br />
Annually, tourists swarm to Cape Agulhas, wanting<br />
to visit the most southern tip of Africa, their adventurous<br />
itineraries quenching their thirst for whale<br />
watching, shark diving, and yes, bespoke Sauvignon<br />
Blanc.<br />
En route, Lomond’s Sauvignon Blanc vineyards overlook<br />
Dyer Island, a playground for marine animals;<br />
while on land, the winemaker Hannes Meyer plays to<br />
his strengths, producing distinctive Sauvignon Blanc<br />
from vines growing in sandy, weathered soils.<br />
«It’s incredible how Sauvignon effortlessly expresses<br />
its terroir. White stone fruit is a marker for this area<br />
with natural acidities and a super low pH ensuring<br />
great ageing potential,» says Meyer.<br />
Their vineyards benefit from great diurnal temperature<br />
ranges, and the wines’ character also echoes<br />
something of this marine spectacle with a noticeable<br />
thread of salinity. Both the Lomond Sauvignon Blanc<br />
2023 (91) and the Lomond Pincushion (90) fared well,<br />
commended for their classic and expressive styles.<br />
Farther south, Elim is the coldest wine region in<br />
the country, where a combination of ferricrete,<br />
chalk and koffieklip creates lighter, grey soils. It is<br />
home to Strandveld Vineyards, where cellarmaster<br />
Conrad Vlok crafts distinctive wines from marginal<br />
vineyards. In 2022, he was awarded the Dinersclub<br />
SA Winemaker of the Year in recognition of the<br />
Strandveld Pofadderbos Sauvignon Blanc 2021, the<br />
2022 vintage receiving double gold (92) from Gilbert<br />
& Gaillard.<br />
WINEMAKER HANNES MEYER IS IN HIS ELEMENT MAKING SAUVIGNON BLANC AT LOMOND,<br />
SITUATED NEAR CAPE AGULHAS, AGAINST THE SLOPES OF BEN LOMOND MOUNTAIN AND<br />
ITS UNIQUE GEOLOGICAL FORMATIONS AND ARRAY OF SOIL TYPES<br />
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SOUTH A<strong>FR</strong>ICA<br />
GRAPE<br />
«Our vineyards are seven to ten kilometres from the sea, « Vlok says, an avid fisherman who proudly serves<br />
his wines with his catch.<br />
«Sauvignon loves the cool weather brought on by winds in the growing season. From any side, prevailing<br />
winds are always sea winds cooling the vineyards and contributing to low yields in the flowering season. We<br />
make the best wines when crops are at most 3.5 tons per hectare. Stressful conditions, the salty wind and<br />
brackish water add to the wines’ mineral quality.»<br />
They say you don’t buy land in Elim; you buy wind, banters David Nieuwoudt, owner and fifth generation at<br />
Cederberg Wines and a member of the Cape Winemakers Guild.<br />
He considers Elim, home to his Wild Ferment and Ghostcorner Sauvignon Blancs 2022 (92), «the Cape’s<br />
best-kept secret.»<br />
«It is an absolute joy selling this wine internationally. Besides its maritime character, there is a brightness<br />
to these wines.»<br />
Approximately 350km inland from here at 1,100m above sea level, his Cederberg vineyards are the highest in<br />
the country. Where fynbos meets the edge of the Succulent Karoo biome, this 5,500ha farm boasts 74 ha under<br />
vine, presenting a completely different style of wine; the Cederberg Sauvignon Blanc 2022 scored 91 points.<br />
«Sauvignon can only be influenced by heat or rain in South Africa. Cederberg is the only cool continental area;<br />
the vineyards are super site-specific.»<br />
The cool southeastern-facing slopes are predominantly clay and shale, picked later for more aromatic tropical<br />
flavours adding palate weight. Sandstone components are picked earlier, showing a more mineral, steely edge.<br />
«Wind contributes to the cooling effect here, and vineyard management remains crucial. We are also in no<br />
rush to release our wines early like many others, so it spends adequate time on the fermentation lees.»<br />
Nieuwoudt’s experience with altitude vineyards led to a partnership with Julio Bouchon from Chile where<br />
they make the Longaví Sauvignon Blanc in the Maule Valley, at the foot of the Andes mountains.<br />
POFADDERBOS VINEYARDS OVERLOOKING THE FARM<br />
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STRANDVELD WINEMAKER, CONRAD VLOK, AT THE<br />
POFADDERBOS VINEYARD<br />
MORGAN STEYN JOINED CHARLES HOPKINS, A MEMBER OF THE CAPE WINEMAKERS<br />
GUILD, AT DE GRENDEL AS A PART OF THE GUILD’S PROTÉGÉ MENTORING<br />
PROGRAMME. HE WAS SINCE APPOINTED AS WINEMAKER<br />
Anyone who has visited South Africa and loves the outdoors has made an acquaintance with its flower<br />
kingdom and is in awe of how quickly the vegetation can change over short distances. For an aromatic<br />
variety that doesn’t need a lot of cellar intervention, it often embodies something of this flora, adding a<br />
fresh, savoury twist.<br />
Bartho Eksteen (Bartho Eksteen Wine Estate) and Charles Hopkins (cellar master at De Grendel Wine<br />
Estate) are CWG members whose Sauvignon Blancs regularly come under the hammer at the annual CWG<br />
Auction where collectors worldwide want to get their hands on these wines.<br />
Eksteen chose Hermanus as his Sauvignon Blanc playground and shoots straight from the shoulder to<br />
defend it.<br />
«People can say what they want, Sauvignon wants to be as close to the ocean as possible unless you have<br />
the altitude advantage like Cederberg.»<br />
Hopkins cut his teeth on Sauvignon Blanc some 30 years ago and agrees with Thys Louw, proprietor and<br />
winemaker at Diemersdal, that they have not seen any pertinent influences from climate change in the<br />
Durbanville Wine Valley.<br />
«We are like a small Peninsula,» says Hopkins, looking at a clear vista of Table Mountain from their tasting<br />
room, «and by receiving cool air from both sides, we may have somewhat sidestepped significant changes.»<br />
According to Louw, it was mainly due to its cool night-time temperatures that made them plant Sauvignon<br />
Blanc here in the first place.<br />
«By the end of May 2023, before mid-winter, we’ve already had 40% of our annual rain, the same as 40 years<br />
ago,» says Louw, who now produces nine different Sauvignon Blancs, a tenth in conjunction with Ben<br />
Glover Family Vineyards in Marlborough.<br />
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SOUTH A<strong>FR</strong>ICA<br />
GRAPE<br />
Morgan Steyn started working with Hopkins as part of the CWG’s Protege Programme in 2019 and was later<br />
appointed winemaker. As Durbanville already hosts the annual Season Of Sauvignon festival, it was time for a<br />
collective strategy to showcase this variety. In 2022, 13 wineries in the valley collaborated for the maiden vintage<br />
of Durbanville Sauvignon Blanc, and Steyn was responsible for blending the diverse components.<br />
«We made the second vintage this year. Each producer contributed a component true to their vineyards and<br />
winemaking philosophy which was then blended to represent the diversity of the whole valley.»<br />
Elgin is another area nudging the ocean, and albeit on a plateau surrounded by mountains, this cool appellation<br />
forms part of the Cape South Coast region, home to Iona. The farm is 420m above sea-level and the Iona Wild<br />
Ferment 2022 had the tasting panel on the edges of their seats with its intensity and staying power (93).<br />
Winemaker Werner Muller proudly shares how confident they are about Iona’s unique style.<br />
«The diversity in Elgin is phenomenal. Our Sauvignon grows on sandstone and lighter soils. Some vineyards<br />
are older than 20 years, adding palate weight, and younger vineyards contribute to freshness. We have a long<br />
growing season, and the long hanging time forms the basis for more apple and pear aromas retaining the natural<br />
acidity and low pH that adds a defining saline quality.<br />
IONA 420M ABOVE SEA LEVEL, HIGH ABOVE THE PICTURESQUE ELGIN VALLEY, SURROUNDED BY THE KOGELBERG<br />
NATURE RESERVE AND OVERLOOKING THE ATLANTIC OCEAN IN THE SOUTH<br />
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SOUTH A<strong>FR</strong>ICA<br />
GRAPE<br />
IN THE CELLAR<br />
EARLY HARVESTING AT KLEIN CONSTANTIA<br />
Sauvignon Blanc doesn’t need a lot of intervention in<br />
the cellar if the vineyards are allowed to revel in the<br />
best growing environments. Yet, the judicious use of<br />
oak has introduced a profound chapter.<br />
Eksteen: «We learned that Sauvignon is unforgiving<br />
with inexact oak regimes, and we had to pay studious<br />
attention to coopers, craftmanship and toasting<br />
intensities. It has an affinity with large, older barrels<br />
for the best integration.»<br />
While some producers are fishing or exploring the<br />
caves of the Cederberg mountains, Hermanus is<br />
known for its abalone industry, and the pearly shell<br />
of this protected species was the inspiration behind<br />
Eksteen’s labels. Proudly Afrikaans speaking, his<br />
wines are some of the few bearing Afrikaans names:<br />
Bartho Eksteen Houtskool 2021 and Bartho Eksteen<br />
Meester 2022 rewarded 91 points, respectively.<br />
«From the start, our Sauvignon breezed through<br />
fermentation without being inoculated, and year<br />
after year, we saw a golden thread of minerality,<br />
creaminess and integration. It fascinated me.»<br />
A sample inside one of the barrels was analysed,<br />
and a unique flora was discovered, likely to be the<br />
impetus of their consistent style in the Hemel-en-<br />
Aarde-Valley.<br />
«We use whole bunches, a long gradual cycle, and<br />
don’t wait for the wine to settle; it goes straight to the<br />
barrel where it ferments wild, creating its magic.»<br />
Hopkins regards the late Ross Gower as the father of<br />
Sauvignon Blanc in South Africa, who revolutionised<br />
it in the 80s with riper pickings and skin contact.<br />
«At that time, French consultants were brought out to<br />
advise us on how to add a broader mid-palate. They<br />
recommended dirtier ferments, leaving more solids<br />
in the wine to add dimension and depth. It worked.»<br />
Nieuwoudt concurs about whole bunches, comparing<br />
his Sauvignon components to 28 temperamental<br />
kids that require scholarly attention.<br />
«It is vital to ferment cold in the barrel at 14 degrees,<br />
which is much easier to do naturally with Chenin<br />
Blanc and Chardonnay that is not aromatic.<br />
Wild ferments produce fatter wines that need<br />
bottle maturation before reaching their ultimate<br />
drinking pleasure.»<br />
BARTHO EKSTEEN, A MEMBER OF THE CAPE WINEMAKERS GUILD,<br />
HAS MADE SAUVIGNON BLANC A FOCUS IN HIS CAREER<br />
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SOUTH A<strong>FR</strong>ICA<br />
GRAPE<br />
A MYRIAD OF STYLES<br />
CEDERBERG FARMS SUSTAINABLY, AND BECAUSE THIS ISOLATED AREA IS<br />
VIRUS-<strong>FR</strong>EE AND HAS MINIMAL DISEASE, THERE’S LITTLE TO NO CHEMICAL<br />
INTERVENTION<br />
FORMERLY ATTAQUASKLOOF, THIS PICTURESQUE LOCATION OF BARTHO<br />
EKSTEEN WINES IS SITUATED 4KM <strong>FR</strong>OM THE ATLANTIC OCEAN, NEAR THE<br />
BEAUTIFUL COASTAL TOWN OF HERMANUS IN THE WALKER BAY WINE REGION<br />
As guidance, Sauvignon Blanc South Africa (SBSA)<br />
has defined four major styles: tropical and yellow<br />
fruit flavours; spicy and herbaceous; flinty and<br />
mineral; and lime, green melon, and grapefruit.<br />
Hopkins’s insatiable passion for the grape has led<br />
to numerous workshops for industry members and<br />
wine writers to discuss the chemistry that gives rise<br />
to these styles.<br />
«First, you have ester-driven styles where cold<br />
fermentation evokes delightful jasmine, pear and<br />
tea aromas. These aromas are volatile and fade after<br />
eight months. Secondly, you have thiols, identifiable<br />
by aromas of grenadilla, citrus and blackcurrant.<br />
Your third style hails from specific regions<br />
like Darling, Durbanville, Constantia, and Elgin,<br />
embracing the natural occurrence of methoxypyrazines<br />
(reminiscent of grass and green herbs).<br />
Fourthly is the wooded style category, which is becoming<br />
increasingly important and made in smaller<br />
volumes. Lastly, winemakers embrace organic and<br />
biodynamic practices with more quirky and phenolic<br />
wines making headway.»<br />
For Nieuwoudt, winemakers need to enjoy this<br />
canvas of opportunities as long as the wines retain<br />
their liveliness with a balance between pyrazines and<br />
fleshier notes of grenadilla, with a salty, mineral core<br />
balanced by richer nuances.<br />
«Because Sauvignon Blanc is so descriptive, consumers<br />
know what to expect. It will remain popular as<br />
long as it boosts consumer confidence.»<br />
AGE, PRICE AND MARKET<br />
PERCEPTION<br />
Can Sauvignon Blanc age? Unequivocally, reckons<br />
Eksteen.<br />
«France has the advantage of the oldest Sauvignon<br />
Blanc heritage. So much so that Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé<br />
and Bordeaux speak for themselves without<br />
stating Sauvignon Blanc on the label. It has been my<br />
prerogative to experiment with and improve Sauvignon<br />
and address its ageing potential.»<br />
Also, a recipient of the title of Diners Club SA<br />
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SAUVIGNON BLANC SOUTH<br />
A<strong>FR</strong>ICA (SBSA) IS COMMITTED<br />
TO PROMOTING THE VARIETY’S<br />
DIVERSITY AND EXCELLENCE IN<br />
SOUTH A<strong>FR</strong>ICA<br />
Winemaker of the Year (2010) with a Sauvignon Blanc, Tim Atkin MW included<br />
his 2013 Sauvignon Blanc in an article regarding wooded Sauvignon Blancs of the<br />
world, outscoring eminent names such as Didier Dagueneau, Alphonse Mellot and<br />
Henri Bourgeois.<br />
But why are many Sauvignon Blanc consumers not embracing older wines?<br />
Eksteen: «Sauvignon can be its own worst enemy because of its versatility. It can<br />
produce delicious young wines, released early at lower prices, to fine wines with a<br />
heftier price tag and exceptional ageing potential. However, greater marketing efforts<br />
are needed to inform consumers of its premium potential, and my son, Pieter Willem,<br />
and I, take advantage of every opportunity to do so.»<br />
Louw explains that offering many styles of Sauvignon Blanc in their tasting room in<br />
Durbanville, with a restaurant to explore their wine with food, is helping the consumer<br />
over this hurdle. But, at the same time, big supermarkets, locally and internationally,<br />
cannot stay ahead as the quality improves year on year.<br />
«We need to promote the Cape and its extraordinary sense of place,» says Werner<br />
Muller, advocating Iona’s cool climate in Elgin and opening a 2001 vintage to prove<br />
his point. A wine from the other side of the Cape Peninsula, Cape Point Reserve (92)<br />
reflects the same, affirming that no Sauvignon Blanc vine is planted in vain.<br />
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LALANDE-DE-POMEROL,<br />
LIBOURNE’S WELL-GUARDED<br />
SECRET<br />
BY CAMILLE BERNARD<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS:<br />
COURTESY OF THE ESTATES,<br />
QUENTIN SALINIER<br />
Founded just over 25 years ago in response to increased demand for Rioja wines<br />
internationally, family-run bodega Criadores de Rioja has always kept a watchful<br />
eye on overseas markets. Its wines encapsulate a fusion of tradition and modernity<br />
and the winery has successfully kept abreast of changing demand and consumer<br />
patterns. With its appeal continuing to extend way beyond national borders, it<br />
offers a fine illustration of the vitality of this famous Spanish appellation and its<br />
ability to reinvent itself.<br />
CHÂTEAU BELLES GRAVES SURROUNDED BY ITS VINEYARDS<br />
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LIBOURNAIS<br />
APPELLATION<br />
IRON OXIDE SOILS IN THE VINEYARDS OF LALANDE-DE-POMEROL<br />
treasure hidden by its neighbouring appellation, Lalande-de-Pomerol shows stunning<br />
A potential and a unique rendition of Merlot. Despite its proximity to the illustrious<br />
Pomerol appellation, it is often sidelined on Bordeaux’s wine scene. This does not stop the<br />
winegrowers who put their heart and soul into growing vines here, however, from crafting<br />
wines that display undeniable quality. We spoke to some of them to find out more.<br />
Thirty kilometres from Bordeaux, in the wine region of Libourne, the Lalande-de-Pomerol<br />
appellation extends over 1,100 hectares under vine divided between the namesake village<br />
and Néac. A ‘satellite’ of the prestigious Pomerol appellation, with only the river Barbanne<br />
separating the two, it covers soils which, like its illustrious neighbour, encompass gravel,<br />
clay and sand.<br />
Basking in a temperate ocean climate, these vineyard sites produce wines displaying elegant<br />
classicism, which are as delicate as they are age-worthy.<br />
Although these delicious pours compare favourably with those produced by their more<br />
renowned neighbour, they nevertheless struggle to shine out from behind its shadows.<br />
Their low-key profile makes them an appellation that deserves to be (re)discovered without<br />
further ado, if only for the pleasure of savouring wines produced by passionate, committed<br />
winegrowers who redouble their efforts to promote their vineyards.<br />
To gauge this, we met some of them who are not only fully aware of their appellation’s<br />
potential, but also aspire to a level of recognition commensurate with their commitment<br />
and their winegrowing expertise. Join us on a journey to the heart of a wine region with an<br />
assertive personality, and the cradle of wines which, once discovered, are never forgotten.<br />
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XAVIER PITON, OWNER OF<br />
CHÂTEAU BELLES GRAVES AND<br />
CHAIRMAN OF THE LALANDE-<br />
DE-POMEROL PRODUCERS’<br />
ORGANISATION<br />
CHÂTEAU BELLES GRAVES:<br />
“THE MOST STABLE RIGHT BANK APPELLATION<br />
FOR THE PAST 20 YEARS”<br />
“Château Belles Graves is a family-run estate bought by my grandfather in 1938”,<br />
explains current owner Xavier Piton, who joined the winery in 1988. He “gradually<br />
extended the property to its current 17 hectares” and now farms the vineyards “using<br />
sustainable techniques strongly inspired by organic and biodynamic farming”.<br />
Because he chooses not to impose any constraints but rather to leave himself “as<br />
many options as possible to seek out the most appropriate solution as and when, and<br />
the most suitable for people”, Piton “accompanies” his vineyards whilst being mindful<br />
to “let them express themselves”. And in an area where vines have been grown since<br />
the 15th century, he draws the quintessential qualities from a vineyard where the<br />
soils are clay-gravel in places and flint-dominant gravel in others, with occasionally<br />
some clay-silt. Depending on the vintage, these geological nuances produce up to<br />
three Lalande-de-Pomerol labels.<br />
The wines are deliberately very different from each other. “The wines are the result of<br />
the constant conversations we have with our private customers and importers, which<br />
means we can produce wines that people enjoy”. This ability to “keep our finger on<br />
the pulse” also promotes “excellent customer loyalty”. In fact, Piton admits that, in<br />
addition to the marketing skills of his farm, the strength of the entire appellation<br />
lies in “the very people-centric approach of the most stable Right Bank appellation<br />
of the past 20 years, despite the challenges involved in raising awareness levels due<br />
to the small volumes it produces”.<br />
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LIBOURNAIS<br />
APPELLATION<br />
CHÂTEAU LA PETITE DUCHESSE:<br />
“WE HAVE NEVER STRU<strong>GG</strong>LED<br />
TO SELL LALANDE-DE-POMEROL<br />
WINES”<br />
THE VINEYARDS AT CHÂTEAU LA PETITE DUCHESSE<br />
The third-generation representative of a family of<br />
winegrowers located on Bordeaux’s Right Bank,<br />
Lucie Champagne heads up a 55-hectare property,<br />
“including 15 hectares in the Lalande-de-Pomerol<br />
appellation area”. On top of the 20-hectare vineyard<br />
that used to belong to her grandfather and only<br />
produced Bordeaux, newer additions include “8<br />
hectares belonging to the Libourne-Montagne<br />
viticulture college which we bought in 2008”. Lucie<br />
knows the vineyard well because she did practical<br />
work there as a college student. Château La Petite<br />
Duchesse focuses on farming 15 hectares of vines<br />
owned by the Champagne family in the AOC<br />
Lalande-de-Pomerol area.<br />
The family had to wait until 2010 to buy a winery<br />
and make its wines under the appellation because<br />
“it was forbidden to produce AOC Lalande wines<br />
alongside AOC Bordeaux”. However, it says, “we<br />
have never struggled to sell Lalande-de-Pomerol<br />
wines even though we are relative newcomers to<br />
the appellation”.<br />
The comment is borne out by Lucie’s assertion that<br />
she does not have “a single bottle of Lalande to sell<br />
starting in August”. Admittedly, she says, the sales<br />
price of the wines has not changed since they began<br />
selling them, but their price tag alone is not the only<br />
reason for their marketing success. With a strong<br />
local rooting, spearheaded by “a sales outlet we have<br />
owned and run in Saint-Médard for over 40 years”,<br />
the Champagne family’s wines “resonate extremely<br />
well with private customers”.<br />
THE TASTING ROOM AT CHÂTEAU CASTEL VIAUD<br />
CHÂTEAU CASTEL VIAUD:<br />
“THE WINES RESONATE VERY<br />
WELL WITH PRIVATE CUSTOMERS”<br />
“The history of Château Castel Viaud dates back<br />
to the post-war period when my grandfather,<br />
after being demobilised, began farming vineyards<br />
alongside the land on which he farmed a variety<br />
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LIBOURNAIS<br />
APPELLATION<br />
THE BARREL CELLAR AT CHÂTEAU CASTEL VIAUD<br />
of crops”, recounts Laurent Courty, who is tasked<br />
with running the family estate. After structuring<br />
the vineyards and reaching a total 12 hectares in<br />
Lalande-de-Pomerol, “a series of acquisitions and<br />
some leased land brought the present-day area<br />
under vine up to nearly 16 hectares”.<br />
Comprising fine gravel over a sub-soil containing<br />
iron oxide, “which lends our wines a very aromatic<br />
style driven by black cherry, kirsch and wild strawberry<br />
notes”, the soils in Castel Viaud’s vineyards<br />
offer the perfect location for Merlot, complemented<br />
by 10% Cabernet franc and 10% Cabernet-Sauvignon.<br />
Because the crop is entirely destemmed “to lower<br />
the tannin content in our wines”, the three Lalandede-Pomerol<br />
labels are “fruity and appetising”,<br />
matching the “house style” and more importantly,<br />
resonating with “current consumer trends favouring<br />
this style of wine”.<br />
In fact, although Courty sells some of his wines to<br />
trading companies, claiming he has “no difficulties<br />
in selling them compared with other appellations,<br />
the balance of production resonates extremely well<br />
with private customers to whom we sell directly,<br />
but also via wine merchants and duty free outlets<br />
in airports”.<br />
CHÂTEAU VIEILLE DYNASTIE:<br />
“LALANDE-DE-POMEROL IS AN<br />
APPELLATION NOT TO BE MISSED”<br />
THE VINEYARDS AT CHÂTEAU VIEILLE DYNASTIE<br />
The fifth generation of a family of winegrowers<br />
traditionally focusing on production of Bordeaux<br />
and Bordeaux Supérieur, Frédéric Borderie joined<br />
the family-run company in 2005.<br />
The Borderies’ vineyards sweep across nearly 40<br />
hectares, mainly devoted to producing the generic<br />
appellation before he arrived on the property. “By<br />
buying Château Vieille Dynastie in 2011, we were<br />
able to secure some vineyards in Lalande-de-Pomerol”,<br />
explains Borderie. One of the unique<br />
features of this 6.5-hectare unbroken vineyard is its<br />
“entirely gravel-sand soil which is very conducive to<br />
growing Cabernet franc and Cabernet-Sauvignon<br />
that thrive on it, whereas Merlot can actually suffer”.<br />
Aware of the need to “combine technical efficiency<br />
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CHÂTEAU CASTEL VIAUD<br />
SURROUNDED BY ITS<br />
VINEYARDS<br />
THE LALANDE-DE-POMEROL<br />
APPELLATION VINEYARDS<br />
BELONGING TO VIGNOBLES<br />
BEDRENNE<br />
THE RECEPTION AND SALES<br />
FACILITIES FOR VIGNOBLES<br />
BEDRENNE<br />
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LIBOURNAIS<br />
APPELLATION<br />
with respect for the environment”, Borderie grows his vineyards based on HVE 3 standards and<br />
limits the use of chemical inputs whilst promoting biodiversity. By farming sustainably, the<br />
vineyards have all they need to produce “the most wholesome grapes possible”. The fruit, which<br />
produces two Lalande-de-Pomerol labels, is “harvested as early as possible to lend freshness to<br />
the wines, which we want to be palatable”. Borderie firmly believes that “Lalande-de-Pomerol<br />
is an appellation not to be missed because its shortcoming of the past is its quality today”. He<br />
focuses on making supple wines. Using stainless steel, concrete, barrels and even amphorae for<br />
his Eléonore label, Borderie pulls out all the stops to position his wines in a market that he deems<br />
favourable to an “appellation that now enjoys a great reputation in France and abroad due to the<br />
upward push from consumers looking for quality wines at affordable prices”.<br />
VIGNOBLES BEDRENNE: “POMEROL’S REPUTATION<br />
BUT WITHOUT THE PRICE TAG”<br />
One Lalande-de-Pomerol winery cannot be missed, and that is Vignobles Bedrenne. And there<br />
is a good reason for that: “The property’s reception facilities are located in the very heart of<br />
the village of Lalande-de-Pomerol, opposite the church”, explains Chloé Corfias tasked with<br />
marketing and sales at this family-run property.<br />
Now run by Monique Bedrenne and her son Rémi, “Vignobles Bedrenne were inherited from<br />
Monique’s parents, restructured by her father to produce a single unbroken area under vine”.<br />
<strong>FR</strong>ÉDÉRIC BORDERIE, THE OWNER OF CHÂTEAU VIEILLE DYNASTIE<br />
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MONIQUE AND RÉMI BEDRENNE,<br />
THE OWNERS OF<br />
VIGNOBLES BEDRENNE<br />
Of the property’s 13 hectares, “the Lalande-de-Pomerol vineyards cover approximately 9 hectares<br />
with a mix of sand, gravel and blue clay soils”. Merlot, in particular, thrives here and accounts<br />
for 90% of the varietal range. Carefully tended to with no chemical inputs, the oldest vines are<br />
between 45 and 70 years old and produce “three wines with different styles”. The La Croix de la<br />
Chenevelle label echoes the classic Lalande-de-Pomerol style, showing elegance, roundness and<br />
fine tannins”, whereas “Modius reveals a more complex, structured backbone instilled by the<br />
blue clay it is grown on”. Lastly “the sulphite-free label Halictus is appetising and fruity”. This<br />
variety of styles, where a classic wine (La Croix de la Chenevelle) sits comfortably alongside two<br />
more modern wines has allowed the property to “grow increasingly in export markets, particularly<br />
the United States where Halictus sells very well”. Locally, “our wines enjoy great exposure<br />
and benefit from the reputation of Pomerol, but without the price tag”.<br />
LALANDE DE POMEROL: A WORTHWHILE ALTERNATIVE<br />
AOC Lalande-de-Pomerol may not enjoy the reputation of AOC Pomerol, or the requisite<br />
volumes for garnering substantial visibility at international level – as the appellation’s chairman<br />
Xavier Piton points out – but because it combines quality and accessibility, it resonates particularly<br />
well with private customers who like the consistency of the wines and the sincerity of the<br />
winegrowers. So, compared with the sometimes elitist and inaccessible image of Bordeaux’s<br />
Grands Crus, Lalande-de-Pomerol wines offer a worthwhile alternative. This is something that<br />
has not gone unnoticed by its winegrowers. Striving to promote their vineyard sites whilst<br />
producing authentic wines, they have successfully carved out a prime place for themselves in<br />
the hearts of their customers, securing long-term loyalty from them.<br />
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THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH BEER SCENE SEES<br />
A PROFUSION OF NEW BRANDS<br />
AND STYLES<br />
BY JEAN-PAUL BURIAS<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS:<br />
COURTESY OF THE BRANDS -<br />
© STUDIO MARTINO - © CLFD -<br />
© BRASSERIE DE CHANDRES<br />
Over the past few years, the number of newly-established craft breweries in France<br />
has grown exponentially. These boutique companies have joined a market cornered<br />
by the international behemoths and a clutch of long-standing breweries. The trend<br />
dovetails with new consumer patterns and has introduced products running the<br />
gamut in terms of colours and brewing techniques. We take a closer look.<br />
CEREALS BEFORE AND AFTER CRUSHING, THE FIRST STAGE IN THE BREWING PROCESS<br />
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BEER<br />
TREND<br />
SAVOURING BEER AT THE LILLE TERROIR FESTIVAL<br />
Craft beers span the colour and taste spectrum to provide enthusiasts with an extensive choice<br />
of products. In a market that has been made challenging by declining alcohol consumption,<br />
they offer two major advantages – their alcohol content is low and their price tag affordable. Generally<br />
speaking, the drop in volume goes hand in hand with superior quality and this is the backdrop<br />
against which countless local breweries have emerged across France, buoyed by the enthusiasm and<br />
creativeness of passionate entrepreneurs. The beers display a regional identity, boldly venturing<br />
into terroir terrain, but despite this, French breweries have borne the brunt of spiralling inflation,<br />
and have had to cope with an unprecedentedly complex economic environment. So much so that<br />
one in ten breweries claims to be considering closing permanently this year, as revealed by a survey<br />
conducted by the French brewery and SME federations whose findings were published on May<br />
16. In this complex market, brewers are having to contend with an increase in their overheads,<br />
with the cost of inputs, packaging, raw materials, transport and energy reaching high levels. These<br />
headwinds, though, are not preventing many breweries from continuing to invest in their production<br />
facilities and recruit staff in a bid to future-proof their businesses and develop their ability<br />
to innovate in a marketplace that remains in growth mode. Its creativeness and high standards<br />
have turned the beer industry into a force to be reckoned with in the drinks market. The following<br />
examples illustrate the trend.<br />
BRASSERIE LILLOISE: AN IMPRESSIVE STORY<br />
Set in the heart of the northern French city of Lille, Brasserie Lilloise proudly publicises its environmental<br />
credentials with local ingredients across three product ranges. The brand’s iconic label,<br />
Lydéric, is made from local juniper berries added during the boiling phase. Re-fermented in the<br />
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BEER<br />
TREND<br />
LÉGENDES<br />
bottle, it comes as white beer, lager and red ale and<br />
is enjoyed by foodies who like pairing beer with<br />
food. Organically certified Phinaert is characterful<br />
with higher alcohol content and distinctive American-style<br />
hops which lend it a fruity side. Designed<br />
as part of an environmentally-friendly, waste-free<br />
approach, Achille uses un-sold left-over bread<br />
which replaces the malt during production. “All our<br />
products are made using artisanal techniques that<br />
show respect for tradition and prioritise local ingredients”,<br />
explains chairman Olivier de Brueker. “The<br />
brewery is committed to these values, treating the<br />
product with respect and using ancient skills. Our<br />
aim is to reach out to a wide-ranging audience with<br />
a broad selection that matches everyone’s tastes in<br />
terms of alcohol content and style”. Social media,<br />
fairs and competitions are leveraged to enhance the<br />
brand’s visibility.<br />
ARTEMUS: BEER <strong>FR</strong>OM PARIS<br />
SIMON, ANGÉLIQUE AND JONAS,<br />
THE THREE BREWERS<br />
OLIVIER DE BRUEKER, CHAIRMAN OF THE<br />
BRASSERIE LILLOISE<br />
THE TEAM AT THE ARTEMUS CRAFT BREWERY<br />
Since 2015, the Artemus craft brewery has developed<br />
a customer following. A graduate of the prestigious<br />
Arts & Métiers engineering school, Laurent<br />
Laloue established the brand that has now become<br />
a benchmark and offers several unique recipes that<br />
deliver some stunning flavour experiences. “Our<br />
beers display distinctively unique flavours”, explains<br />
Laloue. “The aim is to take imbibers by surprise and<br />
introduce them to something new through their<br />
technical qualities – the foam, bubbles, bitterness,<br />
consistency, aromas, colour, brilliance, and their<br />
shelf life”. Despite this, the competition has changed<br />
a lot over the past four years. The market has become<br />
more structured and breweries have had to generate<br />
greater customer loyalty. “It’s not so much a market<br />
to be conquered any more”, adds Laloue. “Big manufacturers<br />
have entered the scene and their tack has<br />
been to try and give their products a craft feel and<br />
buy speciality breweries to penetrate the European<br />
market. In recent times, every stakeholder has been<br />
familiar with craft beer. Consumers are receptive to<br />
our products and feel that they are drinking better”.<br />
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BEER<br />
TREND<br />
BRASSERIE DU CASTELLET:<br />
THE SCENT OF PROVENCE<br />
THE TEAM AT THE BRASSERIE DU CASTELLET<br />
Renowned globally for its rosé wines, Provence is<br />
also home to other delicious drinks produced in<br />
this stunning region. Located near the village of<br />
Le Castellet – hence its name – the Brasserie du<br />
Castellet designs, produces and packages all of<br />
its beers on its premises based on environmentally-friendly<br />
principles. Its ingredients, including<br />
Mistral hops and wild rosemary, are carefully<br />
selected. The barley and wheat are sourced in<br />
France. The spelt which grows in the neighbouring<br />
department of Vaucluse is crushed by a mill in the<br />
Bouches-du-Rhône department. The coriander and<br />
orange peel come from the region. The brewery has<br />
installed water purification facilities to treat its<br />
waste water and control its emissions. The spent<br />
grain stemming from the barley after the must<br />
has been racked is given to a local farmer who<br />
uses it to feed his animals. “The brewery was established<br />
in 2018 with the avowed aim of nurturing<br />
our Provençal identity”, stresses Vanessa Cesari,<br />
head of marketing. “Our Fada range uses unique<br />
recipes for its lager, white beer, IPA, Triple and<br />
apricot beers. The lager is brewed with a mixture<br />
of Provence-grown spelt and barley malt. It fully<br />
expresses the fresh, floral aromatic core of Mistral<br />
hops. Its malt notes are balanced by a fine, light<br />
bitterness that people really enjoy”.<br />
THE OPEN-AIR BAR FOR KIARA BEER<br />
KIARA LA PETITE BRASSERIE DE<br />
CORSE: BEER <strong>FR</strong>OM THE ISLAND<br />
OF BEAUTY<br />
With a history spanning just four years, the Petite<br />
Brasserie de Corse has already made a name for<br />
itself on the Island of Beauty. It was created in<br />
February 2019 with the help of Ghjuvan Petru Piere,<br />
a young brewer who has been instrumental in the<br />
brewery’s growth. Its owner is none other than<br />
winegrower Jean-François Renucci, who also owns<br />
Terra Vecchia and Clos Poggiale. The beer is named<br />
after a nymph born in a neighbouring lagoon. Fast<br />
forward several centuries and the brewery nurtures<br />
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BEER<br />
TREND<br />
THE CROSNIER FAMILY<br />
the authenticity of tradition whilst at the same time<br />
injecting a spirit of innovation and a dash of modernity<br />
as evidenced by the cutting-edge production<br />
facilities. “Kiara is made from citrus fruits –<br />
lemons, tangerines and citrons – grown in our own<br />
orchards”, explains Anouk Basille, head of communications<br />
and packaging development. “We showcase<br />
a local, artisanal way of doing things, whilst<br />
also focusing our communications on a young,<br />
colourful and dynamic lifestyle beer with a packaging<br />
design that appeals and unique flavours that<br />
pique people’s interest”. Despite the abundance of<br />
commercially available brands, Kiara has grown its<br />
reputation in an era where consumers are increasingly<br />
looking for local products and shunning a<br />
more industrial approach.<br />
L’EURELIENNE:<br />
<strong>FR</strong>OM BARLEY TO BEER<br />
L’EURELIENNE: BARLEY IS GROWN ON THE FAMILY’S FARM<br />
L’Eurélienne belongs to the generation of French<br />
breweries born in the 21 st century. Its history began<br />
in 2005 when 23-year-old Vincent Crosnier began<br />
producing craft beers from barley grown on the<br />
family farm. In his tiny workshop located in a stable,<br />
the young brewer transformed barley into beer.<br />
Through word of mouth and positive feedback from<br />
tastings at farmers’ markets, he has successfully<br />
developed a consumer audience. Chartres cathedral<br />
and the fields of barley have become the brand’s<br />
image. In 2012, production capacity was ramped up<br />
due to new buildings and high-performance brewing<br />
and bottling equipment. “We have developed a<br />
genuine farm brewery and one of our unique features<br />
is that we mostly use the barley grown in our fields<br />
to produce the beer”, says Crosnier. “Our cereals<br />
lend a certain mellowness to them and a distinctive<br />
identity”. The beer undergoes a secondary fermentation<br />
in the bottle. “L’Eurélienne is a beer with<br />
natural ageability that contains simple ingredients<br />
– water, barley, hops, yeast and natural ingredients<br />
to enhance production”, adds Crosnier. With its<br />
name a nod to its home department, the craft beer<br />
has become an iconic terroir-driven product for both<br />
locals and holidaymakers passing through.<br />
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VINCENT CROSNIER,<br />
THE FOUNDER OF<br />
L’EURÉLIENNE<br />
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BEER<br />
TREND<br />
BRASSERIE RULL:<br />
BEER <strong>FR</strong>OM MOUNT CANIGOU<br />
THE CROSS AT THE TOP OF MOUNT CANIGOU<br />
Near the Spanish border, Brasserie Rull has successfully<br />
pulled off an incredible fusion of the expertise<br />
of a passionate ‘beerologist’ and a subtle combination<br />
of ingredients. The beer epitomises the<br />
outstanding, unspoilt landscapes and is brewed<br />
using artisanal techniques from cereals and hops<br />
grown by French farmers. “The beers are brewed<br />
with water from the Canigou, the sacred mountain<br />
of the Catalans”, stresses owner Stéphanie Rull.<br />
“They contain neither stabilisers or colourings or<br />
preservatives, just natural ingredients like barley<br />
malt, hops and yeast”. It has proven to be a winning<br />
formula and the business is growing. Rull has even<br />
set up an open-air bar on the premises to strengthen<br />
the appeal of her beers further and leverage<br />
the potential of a very dynamic market.<br />
BRASSERIE DU SANCY:<br />
BEER <strong>FR</strong>OM VOLCANOS<br />
STÉPHANIE RULL IN THE BREWING ROOM<br />
Mainland France’s highest volcano – which peaks<br />
at 1,886 metres above sea level – befittingly lends<br />
its name to a beer that also scales the heights. The<br />
production method at Brasserie du Sancy is based<br />
on 100% malt, with no added sugar, colourings or<br />
artificial flavours and no filtering or pasteurisation.<br />
The beers display a trademark cereal-type nose<br />
where hops are distinctive but do not overwhelm<br />
the palate with bitterness. “We strive to produce<br />
beer with a crowd-pleasing flavour”, sums up<br />
owner Nicolas Dauchy. “Alcohol content is quite low<br />
compared with the same rival beers. Our ethos is<br />
to produce the finest taste at the best price point”.<br />
With a good footing in its home region, Brasserie<br />
du Sancy is developing sales across France, in<br />
export markets and even in high-end restaurants.<br />
“The market is growing really quickly with a huge<br />
number of signature styles”, adds Dauchy. “Rationalisation<br />
and professionalisation within the industry,<br />
competition among breweries and the high standards<br />
of our customers all drive us to constantly<br />
make progress”.<br />
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NICOLAS DAUCHY, THE OWNER OF THE BRASSERIE DU SANCY<br />
INCREASINGLY SOUGHT-AFTER LOCAL BRANDS<br />
Beer can have countless personas and covers a remarkable array of flavours and<br />
freshness. It is a space that resonates with the expectations of young, urban consumers,<br />
due to its moderate pricing, reined-in alcohol content and marketing appeal.<br />
The emergence of craft breweries across France is opening up new avenues for<br />
consumers who want a greater choice of products, with regional provenance and<br />
terroir characters broadening the scope further. In fact, independent breweries<br />
have opened up the lower alcohol and flavoured beer category, whilst at the same<br />
time acting as the custodians of powerfully-flavoured but also easy-drinking, palatable<br />
range staples. They have successfully carved out a place for themselves alongside<br />
market behemoths such as Kronenbourg, 1664, Grimbergen, Heineken, Stella<br />
Artois, Leffe and Hoegaarden. The appeal of regionality comes with a great brand<br />
image. The category is growing in a way akin to that of the wine industry, with<br />
consumers drinking less but looking for a pleasurable experience with a beer that<br />
is both flavourful and characterful. “The market is highly competitive”, comments<br />
Olivier de Brueker, chairman of the Brasserie Lilloise. Demand has increased substantially<br />
and the response to this has been an impressive number of new breweries<br />
entering the fray. But the market generates constant appeal. Over the past ten<br />
years, consumption has changed and offers genuine opportunities for craft beers<br />
that show respect for tradition and provide product ranges that differ from those<br />
of the large manufacturers. And that is undeniably a major plus point…<br />
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BODEGAS CRIADORES DE RIOJA,<br />
THE ART OF BALANCE<br />
BY ISABELLE ESCANDE<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS:<br />
COURTESY OF THE ESTATES<br />
Founded just over 25 years ago in response to increased demand for Rioja wines<br />
internationally, family-run bodega Criadores de Rioja has always kept a watchful<br />
eye on overseas markets. Its wines encapsulate a fusion of tradition and modernity<br />
and the winery has successfully kept abreast of changing demand and consumer<br />
patterns. With its appeal continuing to extend way beyond national borders, it<br />
offers a fine illustration of the vitality of this famous Spanish appellation and its<br />
ability to reinvent itself.<br />
WINEMAKER AZUCENA HERVELLA<br />
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SPAIN<br />
FOCUS<br />
IN THE HEART OF RIOJA, THE BODEGA OFFERS A GOOD ILLUSTRATION OF THE DIVERSITY OF THE FAMOUS SPANISH APPELLATION<br />
In 1997, the Vivanco family decided to invest in building a winery to<br />
produce, mature and bottle DOCa Rioja wines. The focus is on large<br />
international grocery outlets, hence the emphasis placed on quality right<br />
from the outset. With its impeccable, cutting-edge facilities, most of<br />
them underground, and its unwavering attention to the various stages<br />
of production, Criadores de Rioja was the first Spanish winery to secure<br />
the German IFS certification (International Featured Standard) which<br />
ensures food safety – a prerequisite for accessing European super<br />
and hypermarkets.<br />
The overriding ambition is to export quintessential Rioja wines across<br />
the globe, to introduce consumers to their elegant, balanced style, and<br />
also to reveal the variety on offer in this unique region. Located in the<br />
very heart of the appellation area, just six kilometres from Rioja’s capital<br />
of Logroño, the bodega is strategically situated at the crossroads of the<br />
appellation’s three sub-regions: Rioja Alta, sheltered by the Cantabrian<br />
Mountains; Rioja Alavesa with its yellow-hued limestone soils; and<br />
Rioja Oriental, home to reddish silica soils. The region is also at the<br />
intersection of three weather patterns – continental, Mediterranean<br />
and Atlantic.<br />
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THE UNDERGROUND<br />
AGEING CELLAR<br />
VERY STRONG LOCAL ROOTS<br />
This unique setting punctuated by plains, forests and steep footpaths provide the<br />
backdrop for the winery’s vines to thrive. In addition to its estate vineyards, the<br />
company also works hand in hand with over 500 families of grape growers who<br />
have devoted their lives to growing vines, from one generation to the next. This<br />
experience has enabled them to pinpoint the vineyard sites best suited to each<br />
variety, explains the winery’s marketing manager, Hugo Urquiza. “The vineyards<br />
embrace 20 small villages located in the central part of the Rioja appellation area,<br />
offering an extensive range of aspects, vineyard management techniques, grape<br />
varieties, soil types and elevations, for example. It is a melting pot of Rioja and<br />
its diversity”.<br />
All the region’s native varieties are grown here: Tempranillo, Grenache Noir,<br />
Graciano, Mazuelo and Maturana Tinta for the reds, and Viura, Grenache Blanc,<br />
Tempranillo Blanco and Malvoisie for the whites. Inevitably, Tempranillo dominates<br />
the 1,000 hectares under vine but since its inception, the winery has made<br />
no bones about its determination to promote traditional, minority varieties.<br />
“We believe they provide us with a unique, quality point of difference”, claims<br />
Urquiza. “Also, they help us address climate change due to their suitability<br />
to local conditions, and also to market demand. At the start of the 2000s, we<br />
opted for the seductive fruit characters of Grenache, the freshness and aromatic<br />
complexity of Mazuelo, and the structure and silkiness of Graciano. Over the past<br />
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CRIADORES DE RIOJA<br />
COMBINES MODERN<br />
FACILITIES WITH<br />
TRADITIONAL TECHNIQUES<br />
THE BODEGA GROWS ALL OF<br />
THE TRADITIONAL NATIVE<br />
GRAPE VARIETIES IN RIOJA<br />
BOTTLE MATURATION<br />
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CRIADORES DE RIOJA MAKES<br />
MODERN, <strong>FR</strong>UITY WINES YET ALSO<br />
OFFERS FAITHFUL RENDITIONS<br />
OF THE RIOJA STYLE<br />
decade, we have focused in particular on the two latest native grape varieties<br />
permitted – white Tempranillo for its aromatic intensity and complexity, and<br />
Maturana Tinta, for its freshness and international style”.<br />
The bodega has its sights set on overseas markets, but at the same time continues<br />
to honour its inherent identity. This juggling act also involves the winemaking<br />
process. In recent years, the winery has introduced more modern techniques<br />
which it combines with traditional Rioja expertise, including the use of cold<br />
soaking to produce more deeply coloured, structured and complex wines. It has<br />
also increased the number of French oak barrels, used more new barrels and<br />
reduced its maturation times to align better with international demand, without<br />
compromising on quality or the region’s hallmark style.<br />
Honouring its vineyard sites of course implies making a commitment to the<br />
environment. Criadores de Rioja is a practitioner of sustainable or organic<br />
farming techniques. The group it belongs to is one of Rioja’s largest in terms<br />
of organic acreage. “All of our Graciano and Maturana Tinta vines are farmed<br />
organically”, stresses Urquiza. “Both varieties lend themselves well to a more<br />
modern style”.<br />
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CRIADORES DE RIOJA<br />
IS LOCATED IN ALBERITE,<br />
A SMALL VILLAGE<br />
NEAR LOGROÑO<br />
CONSTANT GROWTH<br />
Traditionally, the bodega has always shipped the majority of its wines to overseas<br />
markets (approximately 60%), even though it has never turned its back on the<br />
domestic market. In fact, “during periods of instability, the latter of the two often<br />
acts as a safe haven”, admits Urquiza. Currently, the armed conflict between<br />
Russia and Ukraine, as well as Brexit have led to a slight decrease in exports. The<br />
United Kingdom, along with Germany and North America, have long been the<br />
largest importer countries for Criadores de Rioja.<br />
But this marginal decline has not prevented the winery from continuing to grow.<br />
Other markets are currently being surveyed and the winery has expanded significantly,<br />
rising from 10,000 m2 to 22,000 m2 in just a few years. And the desire<br />
to improve continues to drive the company. The bodega has taken on board the<br />
Lean Manufacturing approach, a management method designed to improve a<br />
company’s performance, and has been awarded LEED (Leadership in Energy and<br />
Environmental Design) certification, a benchmark for sustainable buildings.<br />
All of these small triumphs underscore the winery’s determination to secure<br />
visibility and exposure over and over again.<br />
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CHILE, THE WORLD<br />
FOR A MARKET<br />
BY MAURICIO LLAVER<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS:<br />
COURTESY OF THE ESTATES<br />
The South American country is the world’s fourth largest wine exporter and leader<br />
among the New World wine countries, fuelled by the export culture of its wine<br />
producers, the active role of export promotion agencies, and free trade agreements<br />
with more than 65 countries.<br />
THE MOST EXPORTED WINES ARE BLENDS OF RED VARIETALS, CABERNET SAUVIGNON AND SAUVIGNON BLANC<br />
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CHILE<br />
ECONOMY<br />
SOME WINERIES STARTED EXPORTING AFTER MORE THAN A CENTURY OF PRODUCING WINES AIMED AT THE DOMESTIC MARKET<br />
In his novel ‘The Tailor of Panama’, written in 1996, British novelist John Le Carré<br />
recounts that bottles of fine wine were always opened at high-level diplomatic<br />
meetings. And he adds: ‘Chilean’, as a symbol of distinction.<br />
These were the first results of a trend that began in Chile in the 1970s and became<br />
more entrenched in the 1980s, as a result of a more open economy and declining wine<br />
consumption in the domestic market. These two forces combined to transform Chile<br />
into an aggressive wine exporter, and the numbers now underscore that transformation.<br />
Export perspectives were consolidated by numerous free trade agreements that were<br />
signed from the 1990s onwards, which allowed Chilean wineries to access more international<br />
markets free of duty. This was complemented by the work of two key organisations<br />
– ProChile and Vinos de Chile/Wines of Chile – which have since contributed to<br />
the promotion and presence of its wines worldwide.<br />
The South American country is the world’s fourth largest exporter, after France, Italy<br />
and Spain. It is also the leading exporter of New World wines, with an 8% share of the<br />
total international market; by comparison, Argentina’s exports account for only 2.5%.<br />
In the 21 st century to date, its exports have grown at an average rate of 6% per year,<br />
and thanks to an official programme launched in 2010 – the Chilean Wine Sustaina-<br />
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CHILE HAS <strong>FR</strong>EE TRADE<br />
AGREEMENTS WITH MORE<br />
THAN 65 COUNTRIES<br />
bility Code – 80% of its exports are sustainable. The main markets for Chilean<br />
wines, in terms of value, are China, Brazil, the United Kingdom, the United States<br />
and Canada. Bottled wines account for 55% of its sales, with red varietal blends,<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, white varietal blends, Chardonnay and<br />
Merlot standing out. Chile is the envy of many wine-producing countries, and this<br />
is reflected in the experience of some of its wineries.<br />
CONCHA Y TORO,<br />
EXPORTS TO 130 COUNTRIES<br />
The most famous Chilean wine group is Concha y Toro, one of whose brands, Casillero<br />
del Diablo, is considered as one of the most renowned in the world. Two facts<br />
define its importance in the international market: one is that its first exports date<br />
back to 1933 – pretty remarkable for a South American country – and the other is<br />
that it markets its wines in 130 countries. Its main markets at the end of 2022 were<br />
the United Kingdom (where it has a strong advertising presence in the football<br />
and rugby leagues), the United States, Chile, Brazil and Mexico. The company’s<br />
export strength is underscored by its 13 distribution offices around the world in<br />
addition to other distributors and independent sales offices, all of which are aimed<br />
at strengthening its sales network.<br />
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CHILE<br />
ECONOMY<br />
“The company believes this is a competitive advantage<br />
as it allows it to work directly with customers<br />
and effectively execute the sales and marketing<br />
strategy in key markets. In addition, we seek to<br />
be present in a variety of markets through trips<br />
and attendance of exhibitions”, Concha y Toro told<br />
Gilbert & Gaillard.<br />
The company markets its wines across the categories,<br />
but for the last five years it has embarked on<br />
a strategy of premiunisation for its portfolio and<br />
already half of its sales comes from premium or<br />
superior quality wines. Its main brand is Casillero<br />
del Diablo, which has its own line extensions, such<br />
as Casillero del Diablo Reserva Privada. The iconic<br />
brand is Don Melchor, which has recently shown<br />
strong growth in several markets. Other relevant<br />
brands are Diablo and Marqués de Casa Concha.<br />
Concha y Toro attributes its export success to a<br />
combination of two factors: having good free trade<br />
agreements to open new markets, and positioning<br />
globally recognised brands through a commercial<br />
strategy that allows them to be on tables across<br />
the world.<br />
BY THE END OF 2022, THE MAIN MARKETS FOR CHILEAN WINES BY VALUE WERE CHINA,<br />
BRAZIL, THE UNITED KINGDOM, THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA<br />
ACW GROUP, WITH VIÑA ARESTI, EXPORTS TO MORE THAN 40 COUNTRIES<br />
ACW GROUP, PRICES FOR ALL<br />
TYPES OF CONSUMERS<br />
Located in the Curicó Valley, Viña Aresti made its<br />
competitive breakthrough in 1999, when it began<br />
exporting bottled wine. At first it did so with<br />
the Aresti brand and in 2006 it added the global<br />
launch of its Espíritu de Chile label. Nowadays,<br />
as the ACW Group (Aresti Chile Wine), it exports<br />
to more than 40 countries, with an important<br />
presence in Japan, Finland and Ireland, among<br />
other markets.<br />
“At Viña Aresti we export a wide variety of high<br />
quality wines made from grape varieties recognised<br />
in Chile and across the world such as<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere, Sauvignon<br />
Blanc and Chardonnay. Some of our main lines are<br />
Trisquel Gran Reserva, Trisquel Series and Family<br />
Collection”, explains the company.<br />
For marketing its wines, the company has strategic<br />
partners in different export markets, including<br />
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CHILE<br />
ECONOMY<br />
distributors and importers, whom it considers key due to their knowledge and<br />
experience of the relevant markets.<br />
Attendance at international trade fairs is also prioritised as venues “where we<br />
have the opportunity to showcase our products and strengthen trade relations”.<br />
This work is reinforced by constant travel by the group’s sales people, including<br />
visits and meetings with existing and potential customers. Behind all this,<br />
impactful marketing and digital promotion is rolled out to secure greater visibility<br />
for the products.<br />
Aresti believes that Chile has the advantage of producing wines of excellent<br />
quality thanks to the country’s topographical and climatic conditions, and prices<br />
aimed at all types of consumers. It also points out the support of the Chilean<br />
state for exporters: “Chilean wineries receive support from institutions such as<br />
ProChile or Wines of Chile. Their help in promoting exports comes in the form<br />
of advice, training, organisation of fairs, and promotion of the country’s image<br />
and the reputation of Chilean wines abroad. They provide specific information<br />
on each market of interest, with the main objective of expanding exports. The<br />
international economic agreements signed by the Chilean state have facilitated<br />
JON USABIAGA, THE WINEMAKER AT VIÑA ARESTI<br />
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CHILE<br />
ECONOMY<br />
exports of Chilean wines. These agreements have focused on reducing tariff<br />
barriers and clarifying trade parameters, with the aim of facilitating access and<br />
presence in different markets”.<br />
CREMASCHI FURLOTTI,<br />
95% OF PRODUCTION SHIPPED OVERSEAS<br />
“Chile is a small, low-consumption country, so we have an export culture”. This<br />
is how Sebastián Cremaschi, CEO of the Cremaschi Furlotti winery, located in<br />
Loncomilla Valley, defines the philosophy of Chilean winemaking.<br />
His family has always been a world traveller. They first emigrated from Italy<br />
to Argentina in 1899, and from there to Chile in the 1970s. With their project<br />
consolidated, they began to export bottled wine in the mid-1990s. Cremaschi<br />
Furlotti now reaches more than 40 countries, and exports account for more than<br />
95% of its production. “Chile is a small and highly concentrated market,” says<br />
Cremaschi. “Most of our wineries export more than 80% of their production”.<br />
GONZALO PÉREZ, HEAD WINEMAKER AT CREMASCHI FURLOTTI<br />
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CHILE<br />
ECONOMY<br />
CLOS DE LUZ IS COMMITTED TO PREMIUM CARMENERE WITH VINEYARDS PLANTED IN 1945<br />
IN THE ALMAHUE VALLEY, SOUTH OF THE CAPITAL SANTIAGO DE CHILE<br />
Brazil, Europe, China and the United States are<br />
the bodega’s main markets and although it specialises<br />
in red and still wines, it also sells sparkling,<br />
semi-dry and sweet wines. “We are very innovative<br />
and versatile according to the needs of each market<br />
and customer,” says its CEO.<br />
In order to make export trade more efficient,<br />
Cremaschi Furlotti constantly supports its distributors<br />
and travels to attend events, trade fairs and<br />
visit customers across the globe.<br />
ProChile’s support is fundamental: “Prochile<br />
provides market information, organises activities,<br />
and makes its infrastructure available to us in the<br />
form of offices and meeting rooms. We have a very<br />
fluid communication with them”.<br />
Cremaschi sums up the context for Chilean wines:<br />
“We have an open economy with known and stable<br />
rules, first class ports with access to competitive<br />
maritime tariffs, and diverse wines of excellent<br />
quality that are very stable over time. These factors,<br />
combined with highly professional, skilled sales<br />
teams willing to travel all over the world, have positioned<br />
us as a major wine exporting country. At international<br />
fairs, Chile is present on an equal footing<br />
with any other wine-growing country in the world”.<br />
CLOS DE LUZ,<br />
A PRESENCE IN 15 COUNTRIES<br />
BODEGA TAGUA STARTED EXPORTING IN 2015 AND ALREADY SELLS ITS WINES IN 52<br />
COUNTRIES<br />
Clos de Luz is a family-owned winery in the<br />
Almahue Valley, located about 120 kilometres<br />
South of the country’s capital, Santiago de Chile.<br />
It was founded in 1945 and, in keeping with the<br />
country’s export tradition, began selling its<br />
wines abroad in 2015. Today the company has a<br />
presence in 15 countries, with the United States<br />
and China leading the way, and its main product<br />
is premium Carmenere, promoted by Chile as<br />
its iconic grape. Clos de Luz focuses its exports<br />
on distributors targeting the on-trade and its<br />
commercial agents travel mainly to two international<br />
fairs: Vinexpo and ProWein.<br />
It believes that Chile has successfully established<br />
itself in far-flung markets due to its open<br />
economy, along with the support of ProChile.<br />
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CHILE<br />
ECONOMY<br />
ALEJANDRO GARRIDO, BTT’S SALES AND MARKETING DIRECTOR: “THERE IS NO SILVER<br />
BULLET FOR WINNING OVER INTERNATIONAL MARKETS”<br />
TAGUA SPA: EXPORTING AFTER A CENTURY<br />
Bodegas Tagua SPA is another example of a Chilean winery that ultimately decided<br />
to embrace exports. The company dates back to 1902 and has been selling wine in<br />
bulk for more than a century. In 2015, after several corporate changes, it began<br />
shipping bottled wine, and in 2018, as Bodegas Tagua (BTT), it ramped up its<br />
foreign sales. Today, the company is present in 52 markets, primarily Brazil, China,<br />
Thailand, Colombia and Ecuador.<br />
Alejandro Garrido, its Sales and Marketing Director, claims “there is no silver bullet<br />
for winning over international markets. We have to achieve a perfect mix between<br />
a large number of trips and customers who support us and market our products<br />
with strength and passion, and thus reflect the spirit and hallmark that we seek<br />
to establish as a company”.<br />
In this respect, Garrido again feels that they have “a lot of support, from our<br />
government, Wines of Chile and other structures. But undoubtedly the trade<br />
treaties and agreements signed by Chile with more than 65 nations have greatly<br />
contributed to the success of the export model and companies like BTT”.<br />
He summarises: “It is a combination of professionalism, honest prices so that<br />
consumers can access our wines, impeccable logistics throughout the chain, and<br />
our friendliness that makes us stand out as a country and opens new doors and<br />
markets for us every day”.<br />
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STRAITALIAN WINEMAKERS<br />
QUINTESSENTIAL ITALY,<br />
WITH A DIFFERENCE<br />
BY ELLEN BUDGE<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS:<br />
COURTESY OF THE WINERY<br />
One of its flagship lines may well be called ‘crazy bottle’ – aka Bocciamatta<br />
in Italian – but StraItalian Winemakers and its managing director Gaetano<br />
Peragine have their feet firmly on, and in, the ground.<br />
STRAITALIAN FOCUSES ON RETAINING CONTROL OVER THE VALUE CHAIN TO OFFER THE BEST PRICES TO ITS GROWERS, AND ITS CUSTOMERS<br />
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ITALY<br />
FOCUS<br />
STRAITALIAN MANAGING DIRECTOR GAETANO PERAGINE ADVOCATES A TRANSPARENT,<br />
SIMPLE, AUTHENTIC AND HONEST APPROACH TO MARKETING THE COMPANY’S WINES<br />
S<br />
“ traItalian is not a conglomerate of producers”, stresses Gaetano Peragine, at the<br />
helm of a nevertheless tight-knit group of grape growers spread over seven Italian<br />
wine regions. “It’s a company that works with small grape growers from northern to<br />
southern Italy, and from east to west, making our own distinctive blends that will<br />
set us apart in the market and carry our brand”. Tostorreddu, an innovative blend of<br />
Carignano del Sulcis, Cannonau and Bovale which spends two years in barrels, is the<br />
ultimate epitome of this strategy. It means stubborn, by the way.<br />
ECONOMIES OF SCALE FOR SMALL PRODUCERS<br />
With a choice of 75 grape varieties, 600 hectares of vineyards and 12 brands to work<br />
with, the variations are endless but there are also numerous common threads. “The<br />
grape growers work the land then our in-house winemakers monitor the quality and<br />
deliver specifications about how we want the vineyards to be run, when we want the<br />
grapes harvested and so on”. Most of the wines are made at the winery in Castellina<br />
Marittima, where StraItalian also owns its own vineyards. “We are twenty miles from<br />
the port of Livorno so it’s very convenient for shipping abroad”, points out Peragine.<br />
This is no accident for a company that exports 95% of its 5.5 million bottles annually,<br />
and it aligns perfectly with its emphasis on the value chain and cost savings. “There<br />
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THE UNIQUE PEN DRAWINGS<br />
BY MILAN STYLIST RICCARDO<br />
CAPUZZO ADD UNDENIABLE SHELF<br />
STAND-OUT TO THE BOCCIAMATTA<br />
AQUATIC COLLECTION<br />
BORDEAUX<br />
TRAVEL<br />
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ITALY<br />
FOCUS<br />
are 43,000 producers in Italy but only 10-15 can truly say they have well-known brands.<br />
Our aim is therefore to generate economies of scale for small producers. The average<br />
export price of Italian wine is around 3 euros. If you can generate savings of up to 20%<br />
on a bottle of wine, it’s very significant”.<br />
CONTROLLING THE VALUE CHAIN<br />
The policy has reaped rewards for StraItalian, primarily in one of its major target<br />
markets, the United States, where it has established its own import company, StraItalian<br />
Inc. “This is our gateway to the US market. It allows us to be in charge of the value chain,<br />
generates savings and means that our wines travel straight from Tuscany to Miami or<br />
New York with no intermediaries”. The cost savings have even taken US retailers aback<br />
but they’re not the only advantage of having a dedicated US-based structure. “Flexibility<br />
is a key selling point for us. Having stock already in the US is a great lever. Even<br />
the big retailers we now work with did not want to commit in the beginning and buy a<br />
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ITALY<br />
FOCUS<br />
BY DESIGNING AN EXCLUSIVE<br />
BOTTLE, SOURCING PINOT<br />
GRIGIO IN <strong>FR</strong>UILI AND<br />
LEVERAGING AWARENESS OF<br />
THE VARIETAL, STRAITALIAN<br />
HAS SUCCESSFULLY SECURED<br />
LISTINGS IN MAJOR US<br />
SUPERMARKETS<br />
full container. We have warehouses in New York<br />
and Miami, allowing retailers to access smaller<br />
batches, one or two pallets. For me, that’s genuine<br />
flexibility”. The strategy has been so successful that<br />
Peragine is now looking to replicate it in China<br />
and Japan. “We have been working for a while on<br />
a joint-venture for both countries that would give<br />
us more direct control over these markets”.<br />
PREMIUMISING TWO ITALIAN<br />
RANGE STAPLES<br />
The US market has also allowed the company to<br />
premiumise two Italian appellations that to a<br />
certain extent have become commoditised. Italian<br />
Pinot grigio has undeniably been a resounding<br />
success internationally in recent years but with<br />
this success has come a measure of trivialisation.<br />
“Pinot grigio is very well-known worldwide, but<br />
we want to take it further”, explains Peragine. “So<br />
we steered away from Veneto and went to Friuli,<br />
which is the best region in Italy for white wines”.<br />
After an 18-month quest to design a premium,<br />
signature Pinot grigio, StraItalian produced<br />
Strato Pinot Grigio DOC. The name is a nod to<br />
the different layers of soil vines put their roots<br />
down through, but also to the company’s name<br />
and to its potential ‘stratospheric’ success. The<br />
packaging is also key to the higher-end approach.<br />
“We drew the bottle in-house. It’s a Champagne<br />
bottle and is exclusively made for us”. With the<br />
blessing of the critics – James Suckling awarded<br />
it 91 points and Gilbert & Gaillard a double gold<br />
medal – Strato Pinot Grigio is all-set to enter the<br />
US market with a price point of $18.99 that sets it<br />
apart from the customary range of $6.99 to $13.99<br />
for the varietal. “We have been picked up by three<br />
big box retailers – which I cannot name yet – and<br />
also by Fresh Market”.<br />
ITALIAN DESIGN AT ITS FINEST<br />
The success mirrors that of StraItalian stable mate,<br />
Bocciamatta Private Collection Aquatic Creatures,<br />
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STRAITALIAN OFFERS QUINTESSENTIAL ITALIAN STYLING, WITH A SIGNIFICANT TWIST<br />
a range extension with a difference of the company’s Prosecco in its distinctive<br />
painted white bottle. “We wanted to take our existing Bocciamatta line further<br />
by making the bottle even more distinctive”, recounts Peragine. “So we met with<br />
Riccardo Capuzzo, who is a Milan stylist. He had already produced these extraordinary<br />
pen drawings and has a range of products that sport them. The white painted<br />
bottles of Bocciamatta really enable them to stand out”. The drawing is scanned<br />
and digitally imprinted onto the bottle. “It is not a plastic sleeve or a screen print.<br />
We don’t want to add to the plastic already in the world”. The sustainability of the<br />
design is echoed in the potential post-consumption usage of the bottle. “Once<br />
you’ve drunk the wine, the bottle is so beautiful that you want to keep it and do<br />
something with it, like a lamp or a vase”. The collectability of the bottles is enhanced<br />
further by the desirability of Capuzzo’s own collections, with some items retailing<br />
for €250. “If you buy a bottle of our Prosecco, it will cost you €25-30!” StraItalian<br />
has thought through every detail of the process: “The regulatory back label can<br />
easily be peeled off, with a little press of the finger, and it leaves no stickiness”. The<br />
result has been “overwhelming demand. We only produced 3,000 bottles to start,<br />
and they sold out within 72 hours. So we’re now scaling up production to meet that<br />
demand, in Italy and worldwide”.<br />
StraItalian, which means quintessentially Italian, has leveraged its distinctive<br />
approach to production and marketing to grow sales relentlessly year-on-year.<br />
“That’s due to our new product launches, like Strato and Bocciamatta, so the best<br />
is yet to come!”<br />
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JOHN AND OLIVIA:<br />
GREAT MINDS DRINK ALIKE<br />
BY <strong>FR</strong>ANK ROUSSEAU,<br />
OUR CORRESPONDENT IN LOS ANGELES<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS: ALL RIGHTS RESERVED<br />
Olivia and John were friends both on and off-screen. This year<br />
marks the 45 th anniversary of the romantic musical comedy<br />
‘Grease’ in 1978, when they got us all dancing and singing to its<br />
catchy score. When they got together to talk about “the carefree<br />
times of their youth”, these talented artists would often do so over<br />
a glass of wine. A drink the duo loved to indulge in, just like some<br />
old-school rock…<br />
What is a good wine according to John Travolta?<br />
I would imagine it is quite simply a wine you enjoy, without thinking<br />
too much about it, or asking how much it costs. Without asking, “Is it a<br />
vintage or not?” “What is its provenance?” “Has it received any awards?”<br />
“Has it been showered with praise by the critics?” You know, I have<br />
travelled an awful lot in my life and I have occasionally drunk wines served<br />
in a pitcher. Believe me, those unpretentious wines had more honourable<br />
flavours than some bottles with prestigious labels that sell for a fortune.<br />
It’s a bit like books. Sometimes you are influenced or attracted to the back<br />
cover, by the great photos on the cover or a well-written presentation,<br />
but once you find out more by flicking through the pages, you are a bit<br />
disappointed. I have learnt not to judge a book by its cover…<br />
Is it your humble Italian origins that taught you that?<br />
Maybe! My father was the son of an immigrant from Naples. In our family,<br />
we liked good things but our finances did not allow us to be spendthrifts.<br />
When my father would bring a bottle of wine home, he made sure he had<br />
bought something ‘good’ without breaking the bank. I think it would have<br />
given him gut ache to spend too much. So when Italian friends or cousins<br />
returned back to the United States with Parma ham, local cheeses and<br />
some bottles of Italian wine in their luggage, right under the noses of the<br />
American customs officers, it was a bit like Christmas had come early. My<br />
father had a soft spot for Taurasi, a wine from the Campania region. Not<br />
to mention Limoncello, the liqueur made from lemon zests. That’s when<br />
he could enjoy some good things without feeling guilty…<br />
You told me one day that drinking wine was more effective than<br />
holding a hand out to someone…<br />
Wine is so much more than just fermented grapes! It is a token of conviviality.<br />
Have you never noticed that when you share the same passion with<br />
116<br />
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LÉGENDES<br />
LÉGENDES<br />
JOHN TRAVOLTA WITH OLIVIA NEWTON-JOHN<br />
JOHN TRAVOLTA WITH <strong>FR</strong>ANK ROUSSEAU<br />
someone, that’s when the magic occurs. Even if you don’t speak the same language!<br />
Let me give you an example. When I met Gérard Depardieu, he didn’t speak English<br />
very well. When we started to talk about the wines we enjoyed, we quickly realised<br />
that we were speaking the same language – the language of Epicureans! It was the<br />
same thing with Olivia Newton-John. We shared so many good times together.<br />
On-set and often over great dinners. Every time Olivia mentioned wine, her eyes<br />
would sparkle!<br />
Olivia Newton-John, the memories<br />
Last August, Olivia Newton-John passed away after a public battle with cancer lasting<br />
three decades. Newton-John, aka Sandy in Grease, launched two wines whose profits<br />
were designed to combat prostate and breast cancer. Produced in Sonoma under<br />
the ‘Pink and Blue for Two’ label, she was extremely attached to these Merlot and<br />
Chardonnay wines. In fact, she invited Gilbert & Gaillard readers to reach out to the<br />
rural community in the Anderson Valley, in northern California, which she felt was<br />
home to the finest wines in the world, without all the bells and whistles.<br />
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CONTACT<br />
DETAILS<br />
Provence - Pages 10-24<br />
• Château Roubine: Tel. : + 33 4 94 85 94 94 -<br />
www.chateauroubine.com<br />
• Domaine des Féraud: Tel. +33 4 94 73 03 12 -<br />
www.DomaineDesFeraud.com<br />
• Château Margüi: Tel. : + 33 9 77 90 23 18 -<br />
www.chateaumargui.com<br />
• Domaine la Grande Bauquière:<br />
Tel. + 33 4 42 29 05 37 -<br />
www.domainelagrandebauquiere.com<br />
• Vignobles Ghigo Domaine de Château Vert:<br />
Tel. +33 4 94 93 60 02 - www.vignobles-ghigo.com<br />
• Maison Meï Domaine Saint-Jean:<br />
Tel : +33 4 42 61 97 36 - www.maison-mei.com<br />
• Château Paquette: Tel. +33 4 94 40 87 90 -<br />
www.chateaupaquette.fr<br />
• Chateau Paradis: Tel. +33 4 42 54 09 43 -<br />
www.chateauparadis.com<br />
• Château de Fonscolombe: Tel. +33 4 42 61 70 00 -<br />
www.fonscolombe.fr<br />
Burgundy - Pages 26-35<br />
• Domaine Pansiot: Tel. +33 3 80 62 94 32 -<br />
www.domaine-pansiot.com<br />
• Domaine Edmond Cornu & Fils:<br />
Tel. +33 3 80 26 40 79 -<br />
www.bourgogne-vigne-verre.com<br />
• Domaine du Chalet Pouilly: Tel. +33 3 85 35 80 07 -<br />
www.chaletpouilly.com<br />
• Domaine Eric Darles: Tel. +33 3 86 42 57 31 -<br />
darles.irancy@orange.fr<br />
• Pierre Gruber / Paul Aegerter:<br />
Tel. +33 3 80 61 02 88 - www.aegerter.fr<br />
• Domaine Florent Garaudet: Tel. +33 6 87 77 01 28 -<br />
www.domaineflorentgaraudet.com<br />
• Bourgogne-Devaux: Tel. +33 3 80 26 04 02 -<br />
www.domaine-bourgogne-devaux.com<br />
Spain - Pages 36-44<br />
• Celler de Capçanes: Tel. +34 977 178 319 -<br />
cellercapcanes@cellercapcanes.com<br />
• Bodegas Nodus: Tel. +34 962 17 40 29 -<br />
marisa@bodegasnodus.com<br />
• Marqués del Atrio: Tel. +34 948 37 99 94 -<br />
info@marquesdelatrio.com<br />
• Bodegas Tempore: Tel. +34 976 835 040 -<br />
info@bodegastempore.com<br />
• Bodegas Antonio Candela: Tel. +34 968 79 02 81 -<br />
info@bodegasantoniocandela.com<br />
Bulgaria - Pages 45-54<br />
• Borovitza: Tel. +359 887 410 619 -<br />
https://borovitzawinery.com<br />
• Bratanov Winery: Tel. +359 888 566 438 -<br />
https://bratanov.wine<br />
• Château Avli: Tel. +359 887 282 555 - https://avli.bg<br />
• Ivo Varbanov: Tel. +44 7956 377 705 -<br />
https://ivovarbanov.com<br />
• Kapatovo: Tel. +359 888 521 444 - www.kapatovo.bg<br />
• Orbelia: Tel. +359 884 667 793 - www.orbeliawinery.bg<br />
• Rosalea: Tel. +359 877 911 937 -<br />
www.rosaleawine.com<br />
• Rupel Winery: Tel. +359 887 612 578 -<br />
https://rupel-wine.com<br />
• Villa Melnik: Tel. +359 884935715 -<br />
https://villamelnik.com<br />
• Zaara Estate: Tel. +359 889 689 999 -<br />
https://zaaraestate.com<br />
• Zlaten Rozhen: Tel. +359 899 409 464 -<br />
www.zlatenrozhen.bg<br />
Nursery - Pages 55-59<br />
• Groupe Mercier: Tel. : +33 2 51 00 65 14 -<br />
www.pepinieres-mercier.com<br />
Soave - Pages 61-69<br />
• Cantina di Soave – Cadis 1898:<br />
Tel. +39 045 6139811 - info@cadis1898.it<br />
• Corte Adami: Tel. +39 045 6190218 -<br />
info@corteadami.it<br />
• I Campi: Tel. +39 045 6175915 - info@icampi.it<br />
• I Stefanini: Tel: +39 3516146709 / +39 3498333470 -<br />
francesco@istefanini.it<br />
• Tenuta Santa Maria di Gaetano Bertani:<br />
Tel: +39 045 6020744 -<br />
info@tenutasantamaria.wine<br />
• Villa Erbice: Tel: +39 045 8880086 -<br />
info@villaerbice.it<br />
• Bertani: Tel: +39 045 8658444 -<br />
bertani@bertani.net<br />
South Africa - Pages 70-79<br />
• Diemersdal. Tel. +27 219 763 361 -<br />
www.diemersdal.co.za<br />
• Bartho Eksteen: Tel. +27 723 235 060 -<br />
www.barthoeksteen.co.za<br />
• Strandveld: Tel. +27 284 821 902 -<br />
www.strandveld.co.za<br />
• Thelema: Tel. +27 218 851 924 - www.thelema.co.za<br />
• De Grendel: Tel. 27 215 586 280 -<br />
www.degrendel.co.za<br />
• Lomond: Tel. +27 283 880 095 - www.lomond.co.za<br />
• Cape Point Vineyards: Tel. +27 217 890 900 -<br />
www.cpv.co.za<br />
• Cederberg: Tel. +27 274 822 827 -<br />
www.cederbergwine.com<br />
• Iona: Tel. +27 282 849 678 - www.iona.co.za<br />
• Zevenwacht: Tel. +27 279 005 700 -<br />
www.zevenwacht.co.za<br />
• Aslina Wines: Tel. +27 21 808 1763 -<br />
https://www.aslinawines.com/<br />
Libournais - Pages 80-87<br />
• Château Belles Graves: Tel. +33 5 57 51 09 61 -<br />
www.belles-graves.com<br />
• Château La Petite Duchesse: Tel. +33 6 26 05 28 61 -<br />
www.chateaulapetiteduchesse.com<br />
• Château Castel Viaud: Tel. +33 5 57 51 47 31 -<br />
www.chateaucastelviaud.com<br />
• Château Vieille Dynastie - Vignobles Borderie:<br />
Tel. +33 5 57 69 83 01 - www.vinborderie.fr<br />
• Vignobles Bedrenne: Tel. +33 5 57 51 46 75 -<br />
www.vignobles-bedrenne.com<br />
Beers - Pages 88-95<br />
• Brasserie Lilloise: Tel. +33 3 20 68 18 59 -<br />
www.brasserie-lilloise.com<br />
• Artemus: Tel. +33 6 61 98 66 71 -<br />
www.brasserie-artemus.fr<br />
• Brasserie du Castellet: Tel. + 33 4 94 02 38 29 -<br />
www.brasserieducastellet.com<br />
• Kiara La Petite Brasserie de Corse Clos Poggiale:<br />
Tel. +33 4 95 32 33 01 -<br />
www.clospoggiale.fr/content/10-la-brasserie<br />
• L’Eurelienne: Tel. +33 2 37 25 77 56 -<br />
https://leurelienne.fr<br />
• Brasserie Rull Bière du Canigou:<br />
Tel. +33 6 67 36 28 68- www.biereducanigou.fr<br />
• Brasserie du Sancy: Tel. +33 6 95 52 43 03 -<br />
• www.brasserie-sancy.fr<br />
Spain - Pages 96-101<br />
• Criadores de Rioja: Tel. +34 941 43 67 02 -<br />
info@criadoresderioja.es<br />
Chile - Pages 102-109<br />
• Concha y Toro: Tel. +56 9 5209 7345 -<br />
https://conchaytoro.com<br />
• ACW Group: Tel. +56 9 8573 8415 - https://acw.cl<br />
• Cremaschi Furlotti: Tel. +56 9 97515159 -<br />
https://cremaschi-furlotti.cl<br />
• Clos de Luz: Tel. +56 9 7879 3660 -<br />
https://closdeluz.com<br />
• Bodega Tagua Tagua: Tel. +56 9 92692342 -<br />
https://www.bodegastt.cl<br />
Italy - Pages 110-115<br />
• StraItalian: produzione@straitalian.com -<br />
https://www.straitalian.com/<br />
118 SUMMER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
PAGES 120 TO 130<br />
TOP WINES<br />
THE SECOND TASTING SESSION OF 2023<br />
FULLY DELIVERED ON ITS PROMISE<br />
Our spring and early summer tastings continued to draw as many entries, particularly as we<br />
further broaden the spectrum by opening up the tastings to beers, ciders, fruit juices and flavoured<br />
wines. This landmark development allows us to present you wines and drinks from an extensive<br />
range of backgrounds, selected from a wide choice of several thousands of bottles from thirty-five<br />
countries. As usual, France, Spain, Italy and Portugal are still in the majority but the New World,<br />
particularly South America, along with Eastern Europe, also contributed to a significant degree.<br />
THE UNIQUE VINEYARDS OF BOROVITZA IN THE NAMESAKE BULGARIAN VILLAGE. THE WINERY WAS ESTABLISHED BY<br />
TWO RENOWNED WINEGROWERS, OGNYAN TSVETANOV AND ADRIANA SREBRINOVA<br />
THE BEST OF SUMMER 2023<br />
Our selection, tasted and scored by our tasting panel, is presented on pages 119 to 130. As is customary for<br />
us, we have chosen to present the wines by country (Bulgaria, Italy…), then by appellation in each region,<br />
with each winery or chateau listed by alphabetical order and in descending of the scores awarded. This<br />
issue therefore features our selection of Bulgarian wines, Italian whites, outstanding Provence wines, South<br />
African Sauvignons and Spanish rosés, the rising star of the international marketplace<br />
THE TASTING PANEL:<br />
PHILIPPE GAILLARD - <strong>FR</strong>ANÇOIS GILBERT - SYLVAIN PATARD<br />
OLIVIER DELORME - JAMES TURNBULL - BRUNO MICHAL - MATTHIEU GAILLARD - <strong>FR</strong>ANÇOIS BEZUIDENHOUT<br />
SUMMER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
119
BULGARIA - DUNAWSKA RAVNINA<br />
OUR SUMMER SELECTION<br />
BULGARIA<br />
Long confined to mass-produced wines<br />
designed to supply the Soviet market,<br />
Bulgaria’s wine industry burgeoned in<br />
the 1990s, offering both international<br />
varietals and very exotic native vines.<br />
With a relatively small area under<br />
vine and low export levels, this is<br />
probably one of the last East European<br />
wine producer countries waiting to be<br />
discovered.<br />
DANUBIAN PLAIN<br />
DUNAWSKA RAVNINA<br />
BOROVITZA 90/100<br />
CR D CUVÉE BELLA RADA 2021: Pale golden<br />
yellow. Delicate nose of acidulous white fruit,<br />
acacia flowers and lime blossom. The palate<br />
restates these flavours while adding some<br />
quality oak and tight-wound persistence. A wellmade<br />
effort to open with food.<br />
https://borovitzawinery.com/en/ Price: € 11.00<br />
Borovitza Winery +359 887 410 619<br />
BOROVITZA 90/100<br />
CR D MRV CANYON PARK 2020: Pale<br />
yellow. Pleasant nose of ripe white-flesh fruit<br />
over a tight-wound floral backdrop. Fruit-driven<br />
palate of great delicacy, with a delicious mineral<br />
dimension. A harmonious, graceful offering to<br />
serve with fish starters.<br />
https://borovitzawinery.com/en/ Price: € 15.00<br />
Borovitza Winery +359 887 410 619<br />
BOROVITZA 87/100<br />
CR D GAMZA 2018<br />
https://borovitzawinery.com/en/ Price: 9.50<br />
Borovitza Winery +359 887 410 619<br />
SVISHTOV V.D.G.<br />
ROUGH DAY 87/100<br />
D PINOT NOIR 2020<br />
https://www.iconicwines.se/english/ Price: € 8.28<br />
Iconic Wines +46 735 29 30 31<br />
STRUMA VALLEY<br />
HARSOVO V.D.G.<br />
KAPATOVO 91/100<br />
D SHIRAZ RESERVE 2019: Deep garnet,<br />
subtle amber glints. Captivating nose of red<br />
berry fruit, grilled and spicy notes, liquorice and<br />
eucalyptus. Full of spicy flavour on the palate,<br />
uncontrived and vivacious, capable of getting<br />
one dreaming of far-flung voyages.<br />
http://www.kapatovo.bg/en/ Price: € 25.00<br />
Kapatovo +359 888 521 444<br />
KAPATOVO 90/100<br />
D SHIRAZ - PETIT VERDOT - PRIMITIVO<br />
2020: Deep red. Attractive nose of ripe red<br />
and black berry fruit with an acidulous note.<br />
On the palate the wine reveals a delicate wood<br />
frame, clearcut fruit flavours and a lingering<br />
impression of crisp rigour. Definitely a wine for<br />
red meat.<br />
http://www.kapatovo.bg/en/ Price: € 15.00<br />
Kapatovo +359 888 521 444<br />
VIA ARISTOTELIS 90/100<br />
D THRACIAN LOWLAND - CABERNET<br />
<strong>FR</strong>ANC 2019: Deep garnet-red with subtle<br />
bricking. Generous nose marrying red fruits,<br />
sweet spices, cacao, eucalyptus and a menthollike<br />
touch. Powerful, ample, lively palate with<br />
a velvety texture and great spice characters. A<br />
stellar, hand-crafted wine.<br />
https://www.orbeliawinery.bg/en/ Price: € 15.00<br />
Orbelia Winery +359 884 667 793<br />
VILLA MELNIK 90/100<br />
D APLAUZ SHIROKA RESERVE 2019: Dark<br />
garnet-red, discreet amber tints. Complex nose,<br />
aeration coaxing out marked aromas of black<br />
berry fruit, graphite and pepper. Robust, fullflavoured<br />
and distinguished on the palate, with<br />
lots of acidity giving zip to the finish.<br />
https://villamelnik.com/en/ Price: € 18.00<br />
Villa Melnik +359 898 578 153<br />
ZLATEN ROZHEN 90/100<br />
D SANSI FAMILY RESERVE 2019: Beautiful<br />
ruby-red colour. The nose brims with very ripe<br />
fruit, spices and discreet gamey notes. Smooth<br />
on the palate, with the same expressive aromas.<br />
An accomplished wine, to be opened at the table,<br />
why not with game.<br />
https://www.zlatenrozhen.bg/en/ Price: € 10.00<br />
Zlaten Rozhen LTD +359 899 409 464<br />
KAPATOVO 88/100<br />
D GRENACHE - MOURVÈDRE - SHIRAZ<br />
2021<br />
http://www.kapatovo.bg/en/ Price: € 12.00<br />
Kapatovo +359 888 521 444<br />
ZLATEN ROZHEN 88/100<br />
D 41° PARALLEL 2019<br />
https://www.zlatenrozhen.bg/en/ Price: € 7.00<br />
Zlaten Rozhen LTD +359 899 409 464<br />
VILLA MELNIK 86/100<br />
D BERGULÉ VIOGNIER & CHARDONNAY<br />
2022<br />
https://villamelnik.com/en/ Price: € 7.50<br />
Villa Melnik +359 898 578 153<br />
VILLA MELNIK 86/100<br />
D APLAUZ CABERNET SAUVIGNON<br />
RESERVE 2018<br />
https://villamelnik.com/en/ Price: € 18.00<br />
Villa Melnik +359 898 578 153<br />
THRACIAN VALLEY<br />
SAKAR V.D.G.<br />
ZAARA ESTATE 93/100<br />
D DOGMA MERLOT & SYRAH & CABERNET<br />
SAUVIGNON 2019: Deep colour with garnetred<br />
glints. The nose is delicately woody, ashy,<br />
with underlying jammy red fruit. Pleasantly<br />
developed palate providing beautiful and great<br />
fruit ripeness. Noble maturation, racy tannins.<br />
A very seductive all-rounder.<br />
https://zaaraestate.com/ Price: € 17.50<br />
Zaara Estate +359 886 909 281<br />
ZAARA ESTATE 92/100<br />
D DOGMA CHARDONNAY 2020: Golden<br />
yellow colour. Intense smoky vanilla nose, the<br />
fruit gradually reveals a range of dried fruits<br />
and white peach. Opulent mouth, elaborated<br />
in a gourmet spirit with an elegant maturation.<br />
Freshness prevails through the finish.<br />
Beautifully crafted.<br />
https://zaaraestate.com/ Price: € 15.00<br />
Zaara Estate +359 886 909 281<br />
ROSALEA 91/100<br />
D WRITER’S WINE 2021: Ruby red, purple<br />
glints. Inviting nose of red and black berry<br />
fruit combined with floral touches. Robust<br />
attack then very tannic through till the finish.<br />
A complex yet still hesitant young wine to enjoy<br />
with spicy food. Needs decanting.<br />
https://www.rosaleawine.com/ Price: € 13.00<br />
Rosalea Winery +359 877 911 937<br />
ZAARA ESTATE 91/100<br />
D DOGMA SYRAH & CABERNET <strong>FR</strong>ANC &<br />
CARMENERE 2020: Deep red with brownish<br />
ruby glints. Bouquet of ripe red and black<br />
120 SUMMER 2023 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
BULGARIA - THRACIAN VALLEY<br />
OUR SUMMER SELECTION<br />
fruits with a spicy earthy undertone. The palate<br />
confirms this intensity and aromatic density.<br />
Balance, suppleness, length, powdery tannins.<br />
All the qualities to seduce for quite some time.<br />
https://zaaraestate.com/ Price: € 11.00<br />
Zaara Estate +359 886 909 281<br />
IVO VARBANOV 90/100<br />
CONV D SYRAH RHAPSODY IN BLUE 2016:<br />
Deep garnet-red colour, tile-red reflections.<br />
Nose of black fruits (blackberry, blackcurrant),<br />
touches of humus, undergrowth and liquorice.<br />
Powerful attack, both full-bodied and velvety,<br />
consistent with the nose, nice powdery tannins.<br />
Beautiful ensemble.<br />
http://www.ivovarbanov.com Price: € 27.00<br />
Vitis Vinifera Ltd. (Ivo Varbanov Wines) +359 888 566 438<br />
ROSALEA 90/100<br />
D ROSALEA CHARDONNAY 2021: Bright,<br />
pale gold, green tints. aromatic nose of white<br />
fruit, smoky and mineral notes and a touch<br />
of lime blossom. Round, rich and silky on the<br />
palate, reiterating the nose with energy and<br />
persistence. A lovely Chardonnay which speaks<br />
of its origins.<br />
https://www.rosaleawine.com/ Price: € 7.00<br />
Rosalea Winery +359 877 911 937<br />
BRATANOV 89/100<br />
CONV D 3 RED BLEND 2018<br />
https://age.bratanov.wine/ Price: € 18.00<br />
Bratanov Winery +359 889 008 860<br />
IVO VARBANOV 89/100<br />
CONV D VIOGNIER CRYSTAL SILENCE<br />
2019<br />
http://www.ivovarbanov.com Price: € 20.00<br />
Vitis Vinifera Ltd. (Ivo Varbanov Wines) +359 888 566 438<br />
BRATANOV 87/100<br />
CONV D SYRAH SANS BARRIQUE 2019<br />
https://age.bratanov.wine/ Price: € 9.00<br />
Bratanov Winery +359 889 008 860<br />
THRACIAN VALLEY<br />
EMINE 92/100<br />
D SHIRAZ 2019: Concentrated red with ruby<br />
tints. Liquoricy, smoky nose with jammy black<br />
fruit notes and peppery spices. Spontaneous<br />
flavours are thrown up on the palate, with noble<br />
oak influence and well-established tannins.<br />
Chiselled, fruit-driven finish. A concentrated<br />
wine with real character.<br />
http://www.vinexbg.com/en/index Price: € 8.00<br />
Vinex Slavyantsi +359 885 226 150<br />
SOLI 92/100<br />
D ROUGE 2020: Fairly deep colour<br />
with ruby-brown tints. Nose of wild berries<br />
underpinned by a spicy, vegetal backbone.<br />
Generous aromatics on the palate with sweet<br />
tannins and a delicate, gentle fruit feel. Sappy,<br />
persistent finish. Hits all the right notes.<br />
https://www.emiroglio-wine.com/en/ Price: € 7.00<br />
Edoardo Miroglio Winery +359 2 426 39 95<br />
SOLI 92/100<br />
D PINOT NOIR 2020: Light red with brown<br />
highlights. Ripe nose with jammy cherries, sweet<br />
spices and tobacco. The palate is strengthened<br />
by vibrant mature fruit, sustained aromatic<br />
intensity and rounded tannins. A spectacular<br />
Pinot noir with a sleek finish.<br />
https://www.emiroglio-wine.com/en/ Price: € 13.95<br />
Edoardo Miroglio Winery +359 2 426 39 95<br />
A LOW-CROPPING ORGANIC VINEYARD AT THE<br />
IVO VARBANOV WINERY.<br />
CHÂTEAU AVLI 91/100<br />
D SYRAH 2020: Dark ruby-red, purple tints,<br />
very viscous. Fine nose of black berry fruit,<br />
touches of graphite and pepper. Complex and<br />
velvety on the palate, a heady, imposing wine<br />
of faultless balance which will hold its own<br />
alongside some grilled rib of beef.<br />
http://www.avli.bg Price: 12.50<br />
Château Avli Trade +359 888 191 611<br />
MAVRUD & RUBIN 91/100<br />
ORG D BIO 2020: Deep red with rubybrown<br />
tints. Nose of violets and jammy berries<br />
with a mineral, smoky touch. Structured, robust<br />
palate with noble tannins. A vegetal element<br />
brushes up against fleshy fruit. Pairs with<br />
marinated meats.<br />
https://www.emiroglio-wine.com/en/ Price: € 16.00<br />
Edoardo Miroglio Winery +359 2 426 39 95<br />
SOLI 91/100<br />
D MERLOT 2020: Light red with brownlike<br />
tints. Nose of ripe plums and cherries with<br />
spice and wild flower notes. The palate offers up<br />
great aromatic complexity bolstered by mineral<br />
notes and a finely vegetal backbone. Strong<br />
personality.<br />
https://www.emiroglio-wine.com/en/ Price: € 7.00<br />
Edoardo Miroglio Winery +359 2 426 39 95<br />
EDOARDO MIROGLIO 90/100<br />
D PROMETHEUS 2020: Deep purple.<br />
Intense nose combining generous, ripe fruit<br />
with a subtle touch of wood. Homogeneous,<br />
well-crafted palate, still a little marked by its<br />
barrel-ageing but full of promise. Keep for 3<br />
years before serving with meat dishes.<br />
https://www.emiroglio-wine.com/en/ Price: € 15.00<br />
Edoardo Miroglio Winery +359 2 426 39 95<br />
EDOARDO MIROGLIO 90/100<br />
D BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS 2018: Bright<br />
yellow gold, green tints. Clear-cut nose evoking<br />
white-flesh fruit and spring flowers. Ethereal<br />
palate to which copious sparkle confers an<br />
impression of volume. Beautifully chiselled<br />
flavours boosted by well-judged acidity, a<br />
winning recipe.<br />
https://www.emiroglio-wine.com/en/ Price: € 18.00<br />
Edoardo Miroglio Winery +359 2 426 39 95<br />
EMINE 90/100<br />
D PINOT NOIR 2019: Deep ruby. The nose<br />
offers up smoky, toasted accents with jammy<br />
red fruit notes of cherry and redcurrant. Likeminded<br />
fruit and oak influence impart great<br />
tension and a lot of finesse, supported by precise<br />
tannins. A muscular Pinot noir.<br />
http://www.vinexbg.com/en/index Price: € 8.00<br />
Vinex Slavyantsi +359 885 226 150<br />
VIA ARISTOTELIS 90/100<br />
D WHITE BLEND 2021: Brilliant light gold<br />
with some green highlights. Endearing nose<br />
combining apricots, citrus fruits and herbs.<br />
The palate delivers gorgeously lifted, persistent<br />
flavours, an ample, tense mouthfeel and<br />
invigorating freshness. Spicy finish. Absolutely<br />
beautiful.<br />
https://www.orbeliawinery.bg/en/ Price: € 12.00<br />
Orbelia Winery +359 884 667 793<br />
EMINE 89/100<br />
D CHARDONNAY 2020<br />
http://www.vinexbg.com/en/index Price: € 8.00<br />
Vinex Slavyantsi +359 885 226 150<br />
CHÂTEAU AVLI 88/100<br />
D PINOT GRIGIO 2022<br />
http://www.avli.bg Price: € 9.00<br />
Château Avli Trade +359 888 191 611<br />
SUMMER 2023 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
121
ITALY - SOAVE D.O.C.<br />
OUR SUMMER SELECTION<br />
ITALY<br />
Soave is a pretty village in Veneto<br />
fanning out around the base of its hilltop<br />
mediaeval castle. It has lent its name<br />
to a renowned white wine appellation<br />
made from Garganega grapes grown<br />
using the ‘pergola veronese’ system.<br />
The variety is perfectly suited to the<br />
local conditions and thrives amidst<br />
the rolling countryside. Below is our<br />
selection of these extremely endearing<br />
wines.<br />
VENETIAN<br />
SOAVE D.O.C.<br />
FATTORI 91/100<br />
CONV D MOTTO PIANE 2019: Vibrant<br />
yellow-gold with green tints. Racy nose<br />
combining grapefruit, lime and an elegant<br />
mineral touch. Generous, fleshy, concentrated<br />
palate boasting great aromatic intensity, superb<br />
precision, finesse and harmony.<br />
http://www.fattoriwines.com Price: € 18.00<br />
Fattori Wines di Fattori Giovanni +39 045 746 00 41<br />
LA CAPPUCCINA 91/100<br />
ORG D SAN BRIZIO 2018: Vibrant light<br />
yellow. Expressive nose offering up a fusion of<br />
yellow peach, pineapple and a mineral touch.<br />
Lovely perfumed attack adding some citrus<br />
flavours to the palate. Gorgeous fullness and<br />
freshness for this ripe, opulent even, style. Topnotch.<br />
http://www.lacappuccina.it Price: € 20.00<br />
La Cappuccina +39 045 617 50 36<br />
RIONDO 91/100<br />
D COLAFOGO 2021: Glimmering pale gold<br />
with green tints. Clean nose suggesting white<br />
fruits with a vegetal touch. The attack is soft,<br />
leading to fresh flavours that gain progressively<br />
in intensity. A clear-cut, thirst-quenching wine<br />
with a saline finish.<br />
Price: € 3.70<br />
Cantine Riondo Spa +39 045 610 43 46<br />
CASALFORTE 90/100<br />
D BIB 3 L 2021: Pale yellow with green tints.<br />
Subdued nose of white flowers and a vegetal<br />
touch. Good, no-nonsense attack on the palate<br />
leading to well-defined aromatics with floral<br />
scents dominating. The finish remains fresh,<br />
invigorating and pleasant.<br />
Price: € 8.50<br />
Cantine Riondo Spa +39 045 610 43 46<br />
CORTE ALLODOLA 90/100<br />
D FLAVS 2021: Brilliant light yellow-gold<br />
with pale green tints. Nose of white fruits and<br />
tangerine with menthol touches. Very wellbalanced<br />
attack on the palate with fresh fruit<br />
overtones. Clean, very tense finish with tangy<br />
saline tones.<br />
Price: € 6.60<br />
Corte Allodola +39 045 617 59 15<br />
FATTORI 90/100<br />
D COLLE MARIANNA 2020: Pale straw-gold<br />
with green tints. Perfumed nose offering up<br />
flowers and fruit (acacia, rose, apple and bush<br />
peach). The palate is complex yet refreshing with<br />
beautiful zippy fruitiness accented by citrus<br />
zest. Mellow texture and a dynamic finish. Set<br />
aside for exotic foods.<br />
http://www.fattoriwines.com Price: € 15.38<br />
Fattori Wines di Fattori Giovanni +39 045 746 00 41<br />
TENUTA SANTA MARIA 90/100<br />
CR D LEPIGA SOAVE 2021: Pale yellow<br />
with green tints. The nose offers up a ripe fruit<br />
introduction, midway between white fruits,<br />
dried fruits and citrus. The palate is mouthfilling<br />
and generously flavoured with great<br />
aromatic tension to finish. Very enjoyable<br />
exuberance. Set aside for delicacies.<br />
http://www.tenutasantamaria.wine Price: € 12.00<br />
Tenuta Santa Maria di Gaetano Bertani +39 0456020744<br />
RIONDO 89/100<br />
D COLAFOGO 2022<br />
Price: € 6.50<br />
Cantine Riondo Spa +39 045 610 43 46<br />
THE FAMOUS AND TYPICAL ‘PERGOLA VERONESE’ GROWING SYSTEM.<br />
122 SUMMER 2023 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
ITALY - SOAVE SUPERIORE D.O.C.G.<br />
OUR SUMMER SELECTION<br />
EXCEPTIONAL VINEYARD SCENERY <strong>FR</strong>OM THE OLD TOWN OF SOAVE.<br />
CORTE ALLODOLA 88/100<br />
D CLASSICO - FLAVS 2020<br />
Price: € 12.40<br />
Corte Allodola +39 045 617 59 15<br />
FLAVS 88/100<br />
D 2022<br />
Price: € 7.10<br />
Corte Allodola +39 045 617 59 15<br />
LA CAPPUCCINA 88/100<br />
ORG D SOAVE 2020<br />
http://www.lacappuccina.it Price: € 12.00<br />
La Cappuccina +39 045 617 50 36<br />
ROCCA VINI 88/100<br />
D 2021<br />
http://www.roccavini.com Price: € 2.90<br />
Rocca Vini +39 039 65 01 51<br />
FATTORI 87/100<br />
CONV D DANIELI SOAVE 2020<br />
http://www.fattoriwines.com Price: € 10.00<br />
Fattori Wines di Fattori Giovanni +39 045 746 00 41<br />
SARTORI 87/100<br />
ORG D 2020<br />
http://www.sartorinet.com Price: € 6.50<br />
Casa Vinicola Sartori +39 045 60 28 011<br />
CASALFORTE 86/100<br />
D BRUT 2022<br />
Price: € 7.60<br />
Cantine Riondo Spa +39 045 610 43 46<br />
CASALFORTE 86/100<br />
D MILLESIMATO BRUT 2021<br />
Price: € 4.00<br />
Cantine Riondo Spa +39 045 610 43 46<br />
NATALE VERGA 86/100<br />
D 2021<br />
http://www.verga.it Price: € 4.00<br />
Casa Vinicola Natale Verga +39 044 464 81 80<br />
SOAVE D.O.C. CLASSICO<br />
CANTINA DEL CASTELLO 90/100<br />
CONV D PRESSONI 2019: Attractive golden<br />
yellow colour. Pleasant nose suggesting ripe<br />
white-fleshed fruits. More complex on the palate<br />
with lots of substance and delicacy, and fruity<br />
flavours complemented by mild spices. Long,<br />
fresh finish.<br />
http://www.cantinacastello.it Price: € 11.00<br />
Cantina del Castello +39 045 768 00 93<br />
CORTE ALLODOLA 90/100<br />
D FLAVS 2021: Brilliant pale yellow with<br />
green tints. Promising nose marrying green<br />
stone fruits and delicate floral and mineral<br />
notes. Silky, smooth palate delivering the<br />
same fruit flavours with intensity. The ethereal<br />
structure shows elegant fullness.<br />
Price: € 7.00<br />
Corte Allodola +39 045 617 59 15<br />
CANTINA VALPOLICELLA NEGRAR 89/100<br />
D 2022<br />
http://www.cantinanegrar.it Price: € 5.30<br />
Cantina Valpolicella Negrar +39 045 601 43 00<br />
CANTINA DEL CASTELLO 88/100<br />
CONV D CASTELLO 2021<br />
http://www.cantinacastello.it Price: € 8.50<br />
Cantina del Castello +39 045 768 00 93<br />
SOAVE SUPERIORE D.O.C.G.<br />
VILLA ERBICE 90/100<br />
D PANVINIO 2021: Pale gold. Fruit-driven<br />
nose which develops a touch of almonds with<br />
aeration. Then reveals a fine, silky texture which<br />
caresses the palate, as the wine demonstrates a<br />
refreshing, expressive style reiterating the same<br />
tasty flavours. Well made.<br />
http://www.villaerbice.it Price: € 15.00<br />
Villa Erbice +39 045 888 00 86<br />
SUMMER 2023 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
123
PROVENCE - COTEAUX D’AIX EN PROVENCE<br />
OUR SUMMER SELECTION<br />
PROVENCE<br />
Provence and its easy-going lifestyle – a<br />
combination of blue skies, sunshine and<br />
wafts of sea air – need no introduction.<br />
We have selected ten must-visit spots<br />
(pages 10 to 24) offering both visual<br />
pleasure and taste-fuelled experiences.<br />
Here are the wines crafted by these<br />
‘dream’ producers.<br />
PROVENCE<br />
COTEAUX D’AIX EN PROVENCE<br />
CHÂTEAU DE FONSCOLOMBE 88/100<br />
D ESQUISSE 2022<br />
http://www.chateauparadis.fr Price: € 7.50<br />
Château Paradis +33 4 94 47 96 13<br />
COTEAUX VAROIS EN<br />
PROVENCE<br />
BASTIDE DE MARGÜI 92/100<br />
ORG D MILLÉSIME 2022: Pale orangeypink.<br />
Elegant nose showing a mix of sweet<br />
spices, nuts and wild strawberries. The palate<br />
sparkles, with bright, elegant flavours and a<br />
fleshy, sappy feel, freshness and rare aromatic<br />
depth. A high-end rosé.<br />
http://www.chateaumargui.com Price: € 29.00<br />
Château Margüi +33 6 10 26 56 25<br />
CANTARELLE 89/100<br />
D MILLÉSIME 2021<br />
Price: € 6.50<br />
Cap Wine Provence +33 4 94 80 96 01<br />
CÔTES DE PROVENCE<br />
BENJAMIN MEÏ 90/100<br />
D MILLÉSIME 2022: Very light orangey hue.<br />
Pleasant nose delivering a fusion of red fruits,<br />
mixed spices, gingerbread and grapefruit. The<br />
palate is robust, ripe and plump with lovely<br />
appetising flavours and intensity. Harmonious<br />
through to the end. Delicious with cold meats.<br />
http://www.pwm.fr Price: € 12.95<br />
Provence Wine Maker +33 4 42 61 97 36<br />
CHÂTEAU ROUBINE 90/100<br />
ORG D CHÂTEAU 2022: Clear, light,<br />
orangey hue. The nose opens up gradually after<br />
airing to mineral tones, citrus fruits and a faint<br />
A LOVELY TRAIL FOR TOURING THE VINEYARDS AT DOMAINE DES FÉRAUD.<br />
spicy touch. The palate shows good freshness,<br />
texture and very clear characters. The finish<br />
stays fresh, elegant and very focused.<br />
http://www.chateauroubine.com Price: € 16.90<br />
Château Roubine +33 4 94 85 94 94<br />
DOMAINE DES FÉRAUD 90/100<br />
ORG D CUVÉE PRESTIGE 2022: Pale orange<br />
hue. Delicate nose showing tones of gunflint<br />
and red berry fruits. Fruity, fleshy attack on the<br />
palate displaying great precision which clearly<br />
heads towards citrus fruits on the finish. A topflight,<br />
ethereal and persistent rosé.<br />
https://www.domainedesferaud.com/ Price: € 14.00<br />
Domaine des Féraud +33 4 94 73 03 12<br />
FAUVETTE 88/100<br />
CONV D MILLÉSIME 2022<br />
http://www.chateau-la-grande-bauquiere.com Price: € 7.20<br />
Château la Grande Bauquière +33 4 67 65 79 95<br />
CÔTES DE PROVENCE <strong>FR</strong>ÉJUS<br />
CHÂTEAU PAQUETTE 89/100<br />
ORG D ANGÉLICO 2021<br />
Price: € 10.90<br />
Château Paquette +33 4 94 40 87 90<br />
CÔTES DE PROVENCE LA<br />
LONDE<br />
CHÂTEAU VERT 90/100<br />
ORG D SÉDUCTION 2022: Salmon-hued<br />
blush pink. Fine, fresh nose combining citrus<br />
fruits, red berry fruits and floral undertones.<br />
The palate is seductively mouth-filling and soft<br />
with a fine texture and freshness. Great fruit<br />
presence underscored by spices in this beautiful<br />
rosé.<br />
http://www.chateau-vert.com Price: € 14.50<br />
Domaine de Chateauvert - Robert Ghigo +33 4 94 66 80 59<br />
124 SUMMER 2023 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
SOUTH A<strong>FR</strong>ICA - ROBERTSON<br />
OUR SUMMER SELECTION<br />
SOUTH A<strong>FR</strong>ICA<br />
What finer example of site-expressive<br />
wines can you find? Sauvignon blanc<br />
epitomises purity, with its freshness<br />
and herbal, floral and fruity aromas. It<br />
is probably the easiest varietal to pair<br />
with food, effortlessly switching from<br />
an impromptu aperitif to grilled fish,<br />
salads or cheeses. We head off for a road<br />
trip through the land of the Western<br />
Cape, Sauvignon blanc style.<br />
NORTHERN CAPE<br />
CENTRAL ORANGE RIVER<br />
THE HEDGEHOG 89/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023<br />
http://www.orangeriverwines.com Price: € 6.46<br />
Orange River Cellars +27 54 337 8800<br />
CENTRAL ORANGE RIVER -<br />
KAKAMAS<br />
LYRA QUASAR 92/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022: Yellow straw.<br />
Grenadilla and stone fruit on the rich nose.<br />
Palate is full and layered with yellow fruit,<br />
litchi and dried apricot. Layared and complex,<br />
although somewhat austere.. Drink through<br />
2028.<br />
http://www.orangeriverwines.com Price: € 9.43<br />
Orange River Cellars +27 54 337 8800<br />
WESTERN CAPE<br />
CEDERBERG<br />
CEDERBERG 91/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022: Light yellow.<br />
Capsicum and canned peas on the nose. Palate<br />
is crisp and dry with a lovely herbaceous note<br />
following on the flinty aftertaste. A layered and<br />
complex wine that will age well. Drink through<br />
2027.<br />
Price: € 13.50<br />
Cederberg Wines Cellar +27 27 482 2827<br />
CERES<br />
THEUNISKRAAL 89/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023<br />
Price: € 4.00<br />
Theuniskraal +27 23 230 0689<br />
WESTERN CAPE<br />
PAULINA’S RESERVE 92/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022: Light straw.<br />
Vanilla and butterscotch nose with hints of<br />
green apple. Full and rich on the palate with a<br />
touch of citrus and a pithy note on the lengthy<br />
aftertaste. A serious wine that is made to age.<br />
Drink through 2028.<br />
http://www.ricketybridgewinery.com Price: € 11.00<br />
Rickety Bridge Winery +27 21 8762 129<br />
ASLINA WINES 91/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022: Light yellow.<br />
Herbaceous nose with capsicum and asparagus.<br />
Canned peas and litchi on the ripe palate<br />
with some yellow fruit and granadilla on the<br />
aftertaste. Layered and complex. Drink through<br />
2025.<br />
Price: € 6.73<br />
Aslina Wines +27 21 808 1763<br />
DURBANVILLE HILLS 91/100<br />
D COLLECTORS RESERVE SAUVIGNON<br />
BLANC 2022: Light straw yellow with green<br />
rim. Asparagus, fig preserve and fresh pear<br />
bouquet. Carries well to palate. Great freshness,<br />
complimented by evolved characteristics.<br />
Balanced mid palate and superb length. Will<br />
benefit from further cellaring.<br />
http://www.distell.co.za Price: € 9.00<br />
Distell +27 21 8865640<br />
BALANCE CLASSIC 89/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC/ SEMILLON 2023<br />
http://www.overhex.com Price: € 4.00<br />
Overhex Wines +27 23 3476838<br />
PETER FALKE 89/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022<br />
http://www.peterfalkewines.com Price: € 8.00<br />
Peter Falke Wines +27 21 881 3677<br />
CAPE RESERVE 88/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022<br />
Price: € 65.00<br />
Boland Wine +27 73 537 5295<br />
BALANCE WINEMAKER’S SELECTION<br />
87/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023<br />
http://www.overhex.com Price: € 4.00<br />
Overhex Wines +27 23 3476838<br />
THE WILD WOMAN 87/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022<br />
Price: € 7.00<br />
Opstal Estate +27 23 344-3001<br />
CAPE POINT VINEYARDS 86/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022<br />
Price: € 6.00<br />
Cape Point Vineyards +27 21 789 0900<br />
KOELENBOSCH 86/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023<br />
Price: € 4.00<br />
Koelenhof Winery + 27 21 8652020<br />
STONECROSS 86/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023<br />
http://www.deetlefs.com Price: € 4.50<br />
Deetlefs Wine Estate +27 23 349 1260<br />
STELLENBOSCH GOLD 85/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023<br />
Price: € 3.50<br />
Koelenhof Winery + 27 21 8652020<br />
WESTERN CAPE - BREEDE<br />
RIVER VALLEY<br />
BREEDEKLOOF<br />
SILKBUSH 90/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023: Light yellow.<br />
Gooseberry and lime on the fragrant nose. Fruit<br />
forward on the palate with litchi, gooseberry and<br />
citrus following the nose. Lengthy and layered<br />
on the crisp aftertaste. Drink through 2027.<br />
Price: € 5.50<br />
Silkbush Mountain Vineyards +27 83 629 1735<br />
DU PREEZ ESTATE 85/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023<br />
Price: € 3.50<br />
Du Preez Estate +27 23 349 1995<br />
DU TOITSKLOOF 85/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023<br />
http://www.dutoitskloof.co.za Price: € 7.00<br />
Du Toitskloof Wines +27 23 349 1601<br />
ROBERTSON<br />
THE RIVER COLLECTION 90/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023: Pale yellow.<br />
Grenadilla and gooseberry nose with hints of<br />
litchi. Tropical fruit and crisp acidity on the fruit<br />
forward palate. Uncomplex and easy, but layered<br />
on the aftertaste. Drink through 2026.<br />
http://www.bonnievalewines.co.za/ Price: € 7.20<br />
Bonnievale Winery +27 23 616 2795<br />
SUMMER 2023 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
125
SOUTH A<strong>FR</strong>ICA- ROBERTSON - BONNIEVALE<br />
OUR SUMMER SELECTION<br />
A FANTASTIC VIEWPOINT <strong>FR</strong>OM A SAUVIGNON BLANC VINEYARD.<br />
BON COURAGE ESTATE 88/100<br />
D THE GOOSEBERRY BUSH SAUVIGNON<br />
BLANC 2022<br />
Price: € 4.86<br />
Bon courage Estate +27 23 626 4178<br />
BONNIEVALE WINERY 87/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023<br />
http://www.bonnievalewines.co.za/ Price: € 7.20<br />
Bonnievale Winery +27 23 616 2795<br />
ROBERTSON - BONNIEVALE<br />
LOZÄRN 86/100<br />
CR D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023<br />
Price: € 5.49<br />
Lozärn Wines +27 82 576 8093<br />
WESTERN CAPE - CAPE<br />
SOUTH COAST<br />
CAPE AGULHAS - ELIM<br />
QUION ROCK 93/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023: Light yellow<br />
with a green tinge. Sweaty nose with litchi and<br />
passion fruit. Green and herbacious palate with<br />
a touch of apple and pear. Elegantly integrated<br />
acidity. Layered and complex. Drink through<br />
2028.<br />
http://www.quoinrock.com Price: € 7.50<br />
Quoin Rock +27 21 888 4740<br />
GHOST CORNER 92/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022: Yellow<br />
straw. Herbaceous nose with capsicum and<br />
canned asparagus. Palate is crisp and dry with a<br />
delicious granny smith apple note and a layered<br />
finish with canned peas and wax. Drink through<br />
2028. A fine wine.<br />
Price: € 26.00<br />
Cederberg Wines Cellar +27 27 482 2827<br />
STRANDVELD 92/100<br />
D POFADDER SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022:<br />
Light yellow. Gooseberry and litchi on the fruit<br />
forward nose. Palate is tangy and rich with<br />
passion fruit and tropical notes following from<br />
the nose. Aftertaste is lengthy and layered with a<br />
well-integrated acidity on the finish. Excellent.<br />
http://www.strandveld.co.za Price: € 9.02<br />
Strandveld Vineyards +27 28 482 1902<br />
LOMOND 91/100<br />
D LOMOND SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023:<br />
Light yellow. Gooseberry and capsicum on the<br />
fruit-forward nose. Medium to full palate with<br />
canned peas and herbaceous notes following the<br />
nose. A crisp and refreshing classic Sauvignon<br />
Blanc. Drink through 2027.<br />
Price: € 6.00<br />
Lomond Wines +27 28 388 0095<br />
LOMOND 90/100<br />
D PINCUSHION SAUVIGNON BLANC<br />
2022: Light straw. Canned peas and apricot on<br />
the rich nose. A medium bodied wine with peach<br />
and apricot on the palate and a well integrated<br />
acidity on the lengthy aftertaste. A layered wine.<br />
Drink through 2027.<br />
Price: € 12.50<br />
Lomond Wines +27 28 388 0095<br />
ELGIN<br />
IONA 93/100<br />
CR D WILD FERMENT SAUVIGNON BLANC<br />
2022: Pale yellow. Gooseberry and litchi on the<br />
nose. Palate is complex and layered with stone<br />
fruit, grapefruit and tangy passion fruit on the<br />
lengthy aftertaste. Excellent. Drink through<br />
2028.<br />
Price: € 12.93<br />
Iona Wines +27 28 284 9678<br />
PAUL CLUVER 91/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022: Light yellow.<br />
Sweaty nose with hints of canned peas. Medium<br />
palate with a crisp and refreshing citrus note<br />
on the lengthy aftertaste. Herbaceous notes<br />
follow from the nose. Elegant and layered. Drink<br />
through 2027.<br />
https://www.cluver.com/ Price: € 5.50<br />
Paul Cluver Wines +27 21 844 0605<br />
126 SUMMER 2023 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
SOUTH A<strong>FR</strong>ICA - COASTAL REGION<br />
OUR SUMMER SELECTION<br />
IONA 88/100<br />
D ELGIN HIGHLANDS SAUVIGNON BLANC<br />
2022<br />
Price: € 8.86<br />
Iona Wines +27 28 284 9678<br />
SUTHERLAND 88/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022<br />
http://www.thelema.co.za Price: € 6.43<br />
Thelema Mountain Vineyards +27 21 885 1924<br />
WATERFORD ESTATE 87/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022<br />
http://www.waterfordestate.co.za Price: € 7.50<br />
Waterford Estate +27 21 880 5300<br />
HERBERTSDALE<br />
JAKKALSVLEI 87/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023<br />
http://jwww.akkalsvlei.co.za Price: € 4.55<br />
Jakkalsvlei Vineyards +27 44 333 0222<br />
OVERBERG<br />
SEVEN SPRINGS VINEYARDS 89/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2020<br />
Price: € 6.37<br />
Seven Springs Vineyards +27 28 316 4994<br />
PLETTENBERG BAY<br />
PACKWOOD 92/100<br />
CR D WOODED SAUVIGNON BLANC<br />
2022: Yellow straw. Herbaceous nose with<br />
canned asparagus. Waxy and oily on the steely<br />
palate with a touch of vanilla on the aftertaste. A<br />
fine wine with a complex structure and layered.<br />
Drink through 2028.<br />
https://www.packwood.co.za/ Price: € 9.00<br />
Packwood +27 78 244 9400<br />
WALKER BAY<br />
DOMAINE DES DIEUX 91/100<br />
CR D SAUVIGNON BLANC RESERVE 2019:<br />
Yellow straw. Litchi and gooseberry on the<br />
herbaceous nose. Palate is rich and creamy with<br />
a layered note of stone fruit and apricot. Well<br />
integrated acidity and a delicious pineapple note<br />
on the aftertaste. Matured, but still showing<br />
youth.<br />
Price: € 9.89<br />
Domaine des Dieux +27 28 313 2126<br />
HOUTSKOOL 91/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2021: Yellow straw.<br />
Subdued nose with layered notes of stewed fruit<br />
and apple. Palate is full and rich with a present,<br />
but well-integrated acidity. Capsicum and green<br />
apple on the aftertaste. Drink through 2026.<br />
http://www.barthoeksteen.co.za Price: € 24.33<br />
Bartho Eksteen +27 82 920 7108<br />
MEESTER 91/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022: Light yellow.<br />
Asparagus and gooseberry on the ripe nose.<br />
Green apple and litchi on the fruit forward<br />
palate with gooseberry following form the nose.<br />
Crisp and refreshing with a tangy finish. Drink<br />
though 2025.<br />
http://www.barthoeksteen.co.za Price: € 8.69<br />
Bartho Eksteen +27 82 920 7108<br />
ESCAPE 89/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022<br />
Price: € 13.00<br />
Cederberg Wines Cellar +27 27 482 2827<br />
WALKER BAY VINEYARDS 88/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022<br />
Price: € 13.00<br />
Walker Bay +27 28 341 0013<br />
WALKER BAY - BOT RIVER<br />
WILDEKRANS ESTATE 91/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022: Yellow straw.<br />
Full and creamy on the nose with a touch of<br />
vanilla. Citrus and marmalade on the rich<br />
palate with a granadilla note on the aftertaste.<br />
A full and layered wine that will age well. Drink<br />
through 2028.<br />
Price: € 5.00<br />
Wildekrans Wines +27 28 284 9902<br />
WALKER BAY - HEMEL-EN-<br />
AARDE RIDGE<br />
DOMAINE DES DIEUX 88/100<br />
CR D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2021<br />
Price: € 6.18<br />
Domaine des Dieux +27 28 313 2126<br />
WESTERN CAPE - COASTAL<br />
REGION<br />
CAPE TOWN<br />
CAPE POINT VINEYARDS 92/100<br />
D RESERVE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2021:<br />
Light straw. Canned peas and capsicum on the<br />
rich nose. Full and creamy on the palate with a<br />
citrus and asparagus note following from the<br />
nose. Layered and complex. Drink through 2027.<br />
Price: € 11.50<br />
Cape Point Vineyards +27 21 789 0900<br />
CAPE POINT VINEYARDS 90/100<br />
D NOORDHOEK SAUVIGNON BLANC<br />
2022: Light yellow. Subdued nose with hints of<br />
canned peas. Herbaceous on the full palate with<br />
a waxy note on the lemon lime aftertaste. Drink<br />
through 2027.<br />
Price: € 9.00<br />
Cape Point Vineyards +27 21 789 0900<br />
CAPE TOWN - CONSTANTIA<br />
KLEIN CONSTANTIA 95/100<br />
D METIS 2018: Light yellow. Herbaceous<br />
notes on the rich nose. Full and creamy on the<br />
developed, but youthful palate. Canned peas,<br />
asparagus and cooked capsicum follows from<br />
the nose. Layered and complex. Drink through<br />
2028.<br />
http://www.KleinConstantia.com Price: € 25.00<br />
Klein Constantia +27 21 794-5188<br />
KLEIN CONSTANTIA 90/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022: Light yellow.<br />
Green apple and lime on the subdued nose. Rich<br />
and elegant palate with a slightly tangy note on<br />
the lengthy finish. Granadilla and litchi on the<br />
aftertaste. Drink through 2027.<br />
http://www.KleinConstantia.com Price: € 15.00<br />
Klein Constantia +27 21 794-5188<br />
CAPE TOWN - DURBANVILLE<br />
MEERENDAL 86/100<br />
CONV D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023<br />
Price: € 5.00<br />
Meerendal +27 21 975 1655<br />
COASTAL REGION<br />
ARNISTON BAY 87/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023<br />
http://www.stellenboschvineyards.co.za Price: € 4.00<br />
Stellenbosch Vineyards +27 21 881-3870<br />
ORGANIC WINE BY SOPHIE GERMANIER 87/100<br />
ORG D SAUVIGNON BLANC SÉMILLON<br />
2022<br />
http://www.germanier.co.za Price: € 10.00<br />
Jacques Germanier (Pty) Ltd +27 21 869 8103<br />
THE MOORING 85/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023<br />
http://www.overhex.com Price: € 2.90<br />
Overhex Wines +27 23 3476838<br />
SUMMER 2023 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
127
SOUTH A<strong>FR</strong>ICA- DARLING<br />
OUR SUMMER SELECTION<br />
DARLING<br />
DARLING CELLARS 87/100<br />
D RESERVE BUSHVINE SAUVIGNON BLANC<br />
2022<br />
http://www.darlingcellars.co.za/ Price: € 3.00<br />
Darling Cellars +27 74 6834454<br />
DARLING CELLARS 87/100<br />
D GUSTUS SAUVIGNON BLANC 2021<br />
http://www.darlingcellars.co.za/ Price: € 5.19<br />
Darling Cellars +27 74 6834454<br />
DURBANVILLE<br />
DIEMERSDAL 92/100<br />
D JOURNAL SAUVIGNON BLANC 2021:<br />
Light straw yellow. Secondary notes of<br />
asparagus, oak spice and bosc pear. Attractive<br />
entry, followed by well integrated and evolved<br />
mid palate. The finish is rounded, medium to<br />
full bodied. Excellent made wine which will age<br />
well!<br />
http://www.diemersdal.co.za Price: € 12.00<br />
Diemersdal Wine Estate +27 21 976 3361<br />
THE JOURNAL 92/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2021: Light yellow.<br />
Asparagus and capsicum with gooseberries on<br />
the nose. Crisp and refreshing palate with a<br />
lemon-lime note and granadilla on the finish.<br />
Lengthy aftertaste with a tangy note on the<br />
aftertaste. Drink though 2026.<br />
http://www.diemersdal.co.za Price: € 14.00<br />
Diemersdal Wine Estate +27 21 976 3361<br />
DIEMERSDAL 90/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC RESERVE 2022:<br />
Light straw colour with healthy green rim.<br />
Essence of cape gooseberries and hints of subtropical<br />
notes. Well integrated palate with a<br />
smooth balanced acid. Some salty mouthfeel<br />
makes this wine further attractive. Drink now or<br />
keep for another 2-3 years.<br />
http://www.diemersdal.co.za Price: € 6.53<br />
Diemersdal Wine Estate +27 21 976 3361<br />
DE GRENDEL 89/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023<br />
https://www.degrendel.co.za/ Price: € 6.00<br />
De Grendel Wine Estate +27 21 558 6280<br />
DURBANVILLE HILLS 89/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023<br />
Durbanville Hills +27 21 558 1300<br />
<strong>FR</strong>ANSCHHOEK VALLEY<br />
GLENWOOD 85/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023<br />
Price: € 7.50<br />
GlenWood Vineyards +27 74 124 5705<br />
SIMONSBERG-STELLENBOSCH<br />
THELEMA 90/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022: Light straw.<br />
Subdued nose with hints of green apple and<br />
litchi. Palate is ripe and fruity with peach and<br />
apricot on the lengthy and full aftertaste. A<br />
layered and rich wine. Drink through 2027.<br />
http://www.thelema.co.za Price: € 6.43<br />
Thelema Mountain Vineyards +27 21 885 1924<br />
STELLENBOSCH<br />
Z COLLECTION 93/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022: Yellow straw.<br />
Ripe nose with hints of dried stone fruit. Very<br />
full and rich on the palate with dried fruit and<br />
apricot. Creamy and layered on the very ripe<br />
and tart aftertaste. Made to age. Drink through<br />
2028.<br />
http://www.zevenwacht.co.za Price: € 27.00<br />
Zevenwacht +27 21 9005700<br />
DAVID FINLAYSON 88/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023<br />
http://www.edgebaston.co.za Price: € 4.00<br />
Edgebaston Vineyards +27 21 889 9572<br />
VILLIERA 88/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022<br />
http://www.villiera.com Price: € 5.92<br />
Villiera Wines +27 21 865 2002<br />
MOOIPLAAS 87/100<br />
CR D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023<br />
Price: € 7.00<br />
Mooiplaas Wine Estate + 27 21 200 7493<br />
VILLIERA 85/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023<br />
http://www.villiera.com Price: € 5.19<br />
Villiera Wines +27 21 865 2002<br />
WELLINGTON - LIMIETBERG<br />
MOUNTAIN RANGE 86/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022<br />
http://www.doolhof.com Price: € 5.78<br />
Doolhof Wine Estate +27 21 873 6911<br />
THE GOAL OF KLEIN CONSTANTIA IS TO TRULY UNDERSTAND EACH SITE ON THE FARM AND EACH INDIVIDUAL SAUVIGNON BLANC PARCEL AS BUILDING<br />
BLOCKS FOR THE BEST WINE POSSIBLE.<br />
128 SUMMER 2023 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
SPAIN - VT CASTILLA<br />
OUR SUMMER SELECTION<br />
SPAIN<br />
Rosés are not front of mind when it<br />
comes to Spanish wine, and yet they are<br />
now produced in sizeable volumes and<br />
are increasingly exported. So much so<br />
that they compare favourably with the<br />
finest rosés in the international market<br />
place and are enjoying a measure of<br />
success. Need more convincing? Then<br />
just dip into our summer selection!<br />
ARAGON<br />
CAMPO DE BORJA D.O.<br />
PERLA 89/100<br />
D ROSADO 2022<br />
http://www.artiga-fustel.com Price: € 1.85<br />
Artiga Fustel +34 93 818 2317<br />
VT BAJO ARAGON<br />
INDEPENDENT 89/100<br />
ORG D ORGANIC GANACHA 2022<br />
http://www.bodegastempore.com Price: € 2.95<br />
Bodegas y Vinos de Lecera S.L. (Bodegas Tempore) +34 976 835 040<br />
CASTILE - LA MANCHA<br />
ALMANSA D.O.<br />
CUEVA DEL CHAMAN 86/100<br />
ORG D 2022<br />
http://www.bodegasantacruz.com<br />
Bodega Santa Cruz de Alpera +34 967 330 108<br />
HARVEST TIME IN THE DO MONTSANT AT CELLER DE CAPCANES.<br />
BODEGAS PIQUERAS 85/100<br />
ORG D EL PICOTEO 2022<br />
http://www.bodegaspiqueras.es Price: € 5.00<br />
Bodegas Piqueras +34 967 341 482<br />
LA MANCHA D.O.<br />
MUNDO DE YUNTERO 88/100<br />
ORG D ROSADO TEMPRANILLO 2021<br />
http://www.yuntero.com<br />
Bodegas Yuntero (Coop. Jesús del Perdón) +34 926 610 309<br />
TIERRA DE CASTILLA<br />
BOHEM 89/100<br />
ORG D ROSÉ<br />
http://www.latue.com/<br />
Latúe Bodegas +34 925 166 350<br />
CRIN ROJA 87/100<br />
D ROSADO 2022<br />
http://www.roquetaorigen.com Price: € 2.01<br />
Roqueta Origen +34 938 743 511<br />
VITIS TERRARUM 86/100<br />
CR D ROSÉ SYRAH 2022<br />
http://www.vitisterrarum.es Price: € 16.00<br />
Vitis Terrarum S.L. +34 609 03 01<br />
VT CASTILLA<br />
GREEN BOTTLE 87/100<br />
ORG D BIO 2022<br />
http://www.hammekencellars.com Price: € 2.50<br />
Hammeken Cellars +34 96 579 19 67<br />
SUMMER 2023 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
129
SPAIN - CIGALES D.O.<br />
OUR SUMMER SELECTION<br />
CASTILE AND LEON<br />
CIGALES D.O.<br />
VIÑA RUFINA 87/100<br />
D 2022<br />
http://www.bodegassantarufina.com Price: € 3.00<br />
Bodegas Santa Rufina +34 983 585 202<br />
CATALONIA<br />
CATALUNYA<br />
CAPVESPRE 88/100<br />
CONV D ORIGEN 2022<br />
Price: € 4.15<br />
Cellers Domenys, SCCL +34 977 67 80 87<br />
MONTSANT D.O.<br />
MAS DONÍS 89/100<br />
D ROSAT 2022<br />
http://www.cellercapcanes.com Price: € 5.70<br />
Celler de Capçanes +34 977 178 319<br />
PENEDES D.O.<br />
<strong>FR</strong>AGÀNCIA DE MARTA 89/100<br />
ORG D 2022<br />
https://www.ramoncanals.com/en/ Price: € 10.00<br />
Ramon Canals Canals, S.A. +34 937 755 446<br />
VALLFORMOSA 85/100<br />
CONV D CULTIVARE SYRAH 2021<br />
http://www.vallformosagroup.com<br />
Masia Vallformosa +34 938 97 82 86<br />
VINO DE MESA CATALUÑA<br />
ROSÉ BY HOLA 85/100<br />
ORG D 2022<br />
http://www.barcelonabrands.com/premios/ Price: € 4.00<br />
Barcelona Brands +34 931 191 244<br />
LA RIOJA<br />
RIOJA D.O.CA.<br />
CASTILLO DE HARO 90/100<br />
D 2022: Beautiful light orangey colour.<br />
Pleasant nose of ripe fruits accented by plum<br />
and apricot. The palate offers up crisp aromatics<br />
brimming with freshness that is very lifted. This<br />
is a very expressive, harmonious, fleshy rosé that<br />
even works with food.<br />
http://www.marquesdelatrio.com Price: € 3.50<br />
Marqués del Atrio +34 948 379 994<br />
ALEGRO 88/100<br />
D 2022<br />
Price: € 2.25<br />
Criadores de Rioja, S.A.U +34 941 43 63 04<br />
TARÓN 88/100<br />
D ROSADO 2022<br />
http://www.bodegastaron.com/ Price: € 2.50<br />
Bodegas Tarón +34 941 30 16 50<br />
LAGAR DE CAYO 87/100<br />
D CLARETE 2022<br />
http://www.bodegasquiroga.es<br />
Quiroga de Pablo +34 941 37 93 34<br />
SERRANO ARIEZU 87/100<br />
ORG D ANTOÑITA PUÑUELOS 2022<br />
http://www.navarrsotillo.com Price: € 6.00<br />
Serrano Ariezu A. y R., S.C. +34 948 69 05 23<br />
MURCIE<br />
JUMILLA D.O.<br />
ALCEÑO 88/100<br />
D MONASTRELL 2022<br />
http://www.alceno.com Price: € 6.00<br />
Bodegas Alceño +34 968 780 142<br />
YECLA D.O.<br />
ANTONIO CANDELA 89/100<br />
ORG D LADY B ROSADO 2022<br />
http://www.bodegasantoniocandela.com/<br />
Bodegas Antonio Candela e Hijos S.L. +34 968 790 281<br />
MUNDO ORGANIC 86/100<br />
ORG D MONASTRELL 2022<br />
http://www.bodegascastano.com<br />
Bodegas Castaño +34 968 791 115<br />
NAVARRA<br />
NAVARRA D.O.<br />
BLANEO 89/100<br />
D ROSÉ 2022<br />
Price: € 12.00<br />
Murua, S.A., Bodegas +34 945 60 62 60<br />
INURRIETA 89/100<br />
D CORAL ROSADO 2022<br />
http://www.bodegainurrieta.com Price: € 7.45<br />
Inurrieta, S.L. +34 948 73 73 09<br />
PAGO DE LARRAINZAR 85/100<br />
CR D ROSADO DE LARRAINZAR 2022<br />
http://pagodelarrainzar.com/ Price: € 4.90<br />
Bodegas Pago de Larrainzar +34 948 550 421<br />
SPAIN (ALL REGIONS)<br />
VIN D’ESPAGNE<br />
AUTENTICO 85/100<br />
ORG D ECOLOGICO 2022<br />
http://www.covinas.com Price: € 2.00<br />
Grupo Covinas +34 962 300 680<br />
VALENCE<br />
ALICANTE D.O.<br />
COSTA ALICANTE 91/100<br />
ORG D ORGANIC & VEGAN 2022: Very pale<br />
pink, pale grey tints. Expressive nose of whitefleshed<br />
and red berry fruit. Taut, with marked<br />
mineral flavour in the mouth, combining<br />
salinity and elegant bitter notes on the finish.<br />
A distinctive rosé to uncork with summer food.<br />
http://www.bodegaspinoso.com Price: € 5.95<br />
La Bodega de Pinoso +34 965 477 040<br />
LAUDUM 89/100<br />
ORG D NATURE ORGANIC VINE 2022<br />
http://www.bocopa.com Price: € 3.50<br />
Bodegas Bocopa +34 966 950 489<br />
UTIEL-REQUENA D.O.<br />
BODEGA NODUS 88/100<br />
ORG D ESTÀS EN LA PARRA ... CHAVAL<br />
2022<br />
http://www.bodegasnodus.com<br />
Bodegas Nodus +34 962 174 029<br />
FUENTESECA 85/100<br />
ORG D BOBAL CABERNET SAUVIGNON<br />
2022<br />
http://www.bodegasierranorte.com Price: € 2.45<br />
Sierra Norte (Ecovitis·Bercial) +34 962 323 099<br />
130 SUMMER 2023 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
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