september 2009.pdf - CBS OBSERVER
september 2009.pdf - CBS OBSERVER
september 2009.pdf - CBS OBSERVER
Create successful ePaper yourself
Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.
c b s o b s e r v e r 6 s e p t e m b e r 2 0 0 9 4 3<br />
The waterfront has many sights – some more unexpected than others.<br />
and gives you an insight into one<br />
of Copenhagen’s oldest residential<br />
areas and most visited summer night<br />
spots. Good spot for a beer-break.<br />
Continuing along the waterfront,<br />
bike under the bridge and notice<br />
the redbrick building with its<br />
with its tail-winding four dragon<br />
steeple, holding the three crowns<br />
of the kingdoms of Norway,<br />
Sweden and Denmark. That’s the<br />
Royal Exchange, and yes, behind<br />
it is Christiansborg that houses<br />
the Danish parliament, the Royal<br />
Stables and behind them...<br />
In many parts of Copenhagen,<br />
the shift from old royal insignia<br />
to ultramodern architecture is<br />
not far, and in fact the next stop<br />
incorporates both in one building:<br />
The Royal National Library (Det<br />
Kongelige Bibliotek) consists of a<br />
modern waterfront building with a<br />
stunning view and a black polished<br />
facade (hence its nickname The<br />
Black Diamond) and the old Royal<br />
Library-building with Harry Potterlike<br />
reading areas. Take a break at<br />
the library’s café and sip your coffee<br />
in the sunshine in one of the<br />
deckchairs at the waterfront.<br />
Living at the waterfront has<br />
always been important for<br />
Copenhageners and so if you bike<br />
on past the long row of modern,<br />
five storey glass front buildings<br />
you end up at Fisketorvet, central<br />
Copenhagen’s largest shopping<br />
mall, and you will find a<br />
small swimming pool complete<br />
with a diving board built into the<br />
harbor basin, closely followed<br />
by one of Copenhagen’s newest<br />
residential development projects at<br />
Havneholmen. The modern apartment<br />
blocks are still in the process<br />
of forming a new neighbourhood<br />
that just keeps on changing and<br />
developing.<br />
Harbor beach life<br />
Are we tired yet? Okay, but we’ll<br />
have to speed things up a little.<br />
If you cross the small bridge<br />
for bikers and pedestrians to the<br />
island of Amager, you get to Islands<br />
Brygge with a great view of just<br />
how much architects gone wild can<br />
get out of old harbor warehouses<br />
and storage silos. Turn left and<br />
If you want to go swimming, you don’t have to go further than<br />
“Havnebadet” in the harbor basin.<br />
you’ll get to see how the inhabitants<br />
of Copenhagen go about turning<br />
more than a kilometre of old<br />
harbor waterfront into a beach.<br />
If you keep pedalling you<br />
run out of traversable waterfront,<br />
but the reward is biking<br />
along the small canals through<br />
Christianshavns old merchant<br />
quarter. If you keep going you’ll<br />
hit Freetown Christiania, a selfproclaimed<br />
autonomous neighborhood<br />
that has somehow managed<br />
to squat on an abandoned military<br />
area since 1971. The main thoroughfare<br />
here’s called Pusher Street<br />
– that should give you an idea.<br />
If you’re up for more, you can<br />
bike on through, and if you hold<br />
to the left you’ll get back to the<br />
waterfront and the still fairly new<br />
Copenhagen Opera House. Further<br />
on from there you find Holmen, all<br />
of which was once a naval base –<br />
and at the old naval headquarters<br />
you can even get shown around<br />
a decommissioned submarine and<br />
frigate.<br />
If you’re really stubborn you can<br />
then bike on out to Halvandet –<br />
the waterfront’s outermost venue,<br />
where you will truly appreciate<br />
sinking into one of the chill-loungebeach-bar<br />
mattresses with a cold<br />
drink pressed to your saddle-sores.<br />
Vivid Vesterbro<br />
Should you feel like seeing some<br />
more everyday city life, cycle down<br />
Vesterbrogade to Pile Allé and turn<br />
left … and left again in the curve.<br />
If you do you get to cycle through<br />
the Carlsberg brewery with its giant<br />
elephants and the Buddhist swastikas<br />
that make every German tourist<br />
wince at first sight.<br />
From there, make your way to<br />
Enghave Plads and up Istedgade<br />
with the smallest coffeebar in<br />
Copenhagen on your right, Lenin’s<br />
apartment in 1912 on your left at<br />
number 112 and further down a<br />
very special park: Skydebanehaven<br />
hides behind what looks like a<br />
giant fortress or castle wall, but<br />
was built to offer Copenhagen’s<br />
citizens a place to practise their<br />
shooting skills.<br />
For a bit more exhibition of<br />
craftsmanship, leave Istedgade<br />
before it turns into Copenhagen’s<br />
red light strip and turn right at<br />
Absalonsgade. Following Sønder<br />
Boulevard and you will soon notice<br />
an industrial area with a strangely<br />
displaced supermarket at the back<br />
– this is where Copenhagen’s cool<br />
crowd gathers for gallery openings,<br />
drinks and dance. The meatpacking<br />
district attracted so many creatives<br />
with its low rents and morbid<br />
charm of gambrels hanging from<br />
the ceiling that the original patrons<br />
are now shorthanded and pressed<br />
for space..<br />
Out in the boondocks<br />
Still adventurous and ready for<br />
more? Put on your bicycle clips and<br />
head for the yellow brick church<br />
on the top of the hill on Tagensvej<br />
again. Continue on by way of<br />
Frederiksborgvej until you get to a<br />
marshy lake area called Utterslev<br />
Mose. It’s nice there – reeds, trees,<br />
waterfowl and bicyclists aplenty.<br />
If you start out around the path<br />
on the side away from the city<br />
centre, you have just started out on<br />
the outer green cycle route following<br />
the old ring fortification system<br />
It’s time to chill when you reach Halvandet, the outermost venue of the<br />
Copenhagen waterfront.<br />
around Copenhagen’s suburbs for<br />
miles and miles. You’re in for a very<br />
long and varied bike ride following<br />
not only ramparts, canals and ditches<br />
but also the Ring 3 Freeway until<br />
you actually hit the coast.<br />
In around the lakes<br />
Exhausted from all the cycling or<br />
excited by all the sights, you can<br />
either stroll or continue biking<br />
around Copenhagen’s most central<br />
area of recreation – the lakes.<br />
From the fancy Østerbro end<br />
with cafés, the University of<br />
Copenhagen and wealthy residences<br />
down past Nørrrebro to<br />
Søpavillonen (a white wood seaside<br />
resort type building hosting<br />
a forties+ discotheque) to the<br />
slightly rundown Vesterbro-end<br />
with the Tycho Brahe planetarium,<br />
you will encounter all sorts of<br />
Copenhageners jogging, talking,<br />
walking their dog, sunbathing<br />
and discovering the odd bike that<br />
has somehow unfortunately been<br />
thrown in one of the lakes.<br />
Hopefully yours will never end<br />
up like that. By now it should be<br />
your best friend ever… and ready<br />
to take part in the daily <strong>CBS</strong> bike<br />
parking orgy.<br />
1<br />
Christianshavn used to be the home of the Copenhagen Naval Base, which<br />
now is part of the Copenhagen waterfront.<br />
c b s o b s e r v e r<br />
Next deadline: September 17th<br />
Unsolicited contributions: max. 1 A4 page<br />
Mail to: red.observer@cbs.dk<br />
1