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september 2009.pdf - CBS OBSERVER

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c b s o b s e r v e r 6 s e p t e m b e r 2 0 0 9 4 3<br />

The waterfront has many sights – some more unexpected than others.<br />

and gives you an insight into one<br />

of Copenhagen’s oldest residential<br />

areas and most visited summer night<br />

spots. Good spot for a beer-break.<br />

Continuing along the waterfront,<br />

bike under the bridge and notice<br />

the redbrick building with its<br />

with its tail-winding four dragon<br />

steeple, holding the three crowns<br />

of the kingdoms of Norway,<br />

Sweden and Denmark. That’s the<br />

Royal Exchange, and yes, behind<br />

it is Christiansborg that houses<br />

the Danish parliament, the Royal<br />

Stables and behind them...<br />

In many parts of Copenhagen,<br />

the shift from old royal insignia<br />

to ultramodern architecture is<br />

not far, and in fact the next stop<br />

incorporates both in one building:<br />

The Royal National Library (Det<br />

Kongelige Bibliotek) consists of a<br />

modern waterfront building with a<br />

stunning view and a black polished<br />

facade (hence its nickname The<br />

Black Diamond) and the old Royal<br />

Library-building with Harry Potterlike<br />

reading areas. Take a break at<br />

the library’s café and sip your coffee<br />

in the sunshine in one of the<br />

deckchairs at the waterfront.<br />

Living at the waterfront has<br />

always been important for<br />

Copenhageners and so if you bike<br />

on past the long row of modern,<br />

five storey glass front buildings<br />

you end up at Fisketorvet, central<br />

Copenhagen’s largest shopping<br />

mall, and you will find a<br />

small swimming pool complete<br />

with a diving board built into the<br />

harbor basin, closely followed<br />

by one of Copenhagen’s newest<br />

residential development projects at<br />

Havneholmen. The modern apartment<br />

blocks are still in the process<br />

of forming a new neighbourhood<br />

that just keeps on changing and<br />

developing.<br />

Harbor beach life<br />

Are we tired yet? Okay, but we’ll<br />

have to speed things up a little.<br />

If you cross the small bridge<br />

for bikers and pedestrians to the<br />

island of Amager, you get to Islands<br />

Brygge with a great view of just<br />

how much architects gone wild can<br />

get out of old harbor warehouses<br />

and storage silos. Turn left and<br />

If you want to go swimming, you don’t have to go further than<br />

“Havnebadet” in the harbor basin.<br />

you’ll get to see how the inhabitants<br />

of Copenhagen go about turning<br />

more than a kilometre of old<br />

harbor waterfront into a beach.<br />

If you keep pedalling you<br />

run out of traversable waterfront,<br />

but the reward is biking<br />

along the small canals through<br />

Christianshavns old merchant<br />

quarter. If you keep going you’ll<br />

hit Freetown Christiania, a selfproclaimed<br />

autonomous neighborhood<br />

that has somehow managed<br />

to squat on an abandoned military<br />

area since 1971. The main thoroughfare<br />

here’s called Pusher Street<br />

– that should give you an idea.<br />

If you’re up for more, you can<br />

bike on through, and if you hold<br />

to the left you’ll get back to the<br />

waterfront and the still fairly new<br />

Copenhagen Opera House. Further<br />

on from there you find Holmen, all<br />

of which was once a naval base –<br />

and at the old naval headquarters<br />

you can even get shown around<br />

a decommissioned submarine and<br />

frigate.<br />

If you’re really stubborn you can<br />

then bike on out to Halvandet –<br />

the waterfront’s outermost venue,<br />

where you will truly appreciate<br />

sinking into one of the chill-loungebeach-bar<br />

mattresses with a cold<br />

drink pressed to your saddle-sores.<br />

Vivid Vesterbro<br />

Should you feel like seeing some<br />

more everyday city life, cycle down<br />

Vesterbrogade to Pile Allé and turn<br />

left … and left again in the curve.<br />

If you do you get to cycle through<br />

the Carlsberg brewery with its giant<br />

elephants and the Buddhist swastikas<br />

that make every German tourist<br />

wince at first sight.<br />

From there, make your way to<br />

Enghave Plads and up Istedgade<br />

with the smallest coffeebar in<br />

Copenhagen on your right, Lenin’s<br />

apartment in 1912 on your left at<br />

number 112 and further down a<br />

very special park: Skydebanehaven<br />

hides behind what looks like a<br />

giant fortress or castle wall, but<br />

was built to offer Copenhagen’s<br />

citizens a place to practise their<br />

shooting skills.<br />

For a bit more exhibition of<br />

craftsmanship, leave Istedgade<br />

before it turns into Copenhagen’s<br />

red light strip and turn right at<br />

Absalonsgade. Following Sønder<br />

Boulevard and you will soon notice<br />

an industrial area with a strangely<br />

displaced supermarket at the back<br />

– this is where Copenhagen’s cool<br />

crowd gathers for gallery openings,<br />

drinks and dance. The meatpacking<br />

district attracted so many creatives<br />

with its low rents and morbid<br />

charm of gambrels hanging from<br />

the ceiling that the original patrons<br />

are now shorthanded and pressed<br />

for space..<br />

Out in the boondocks<br />

Still adventurous and ready for<br />

more? Put on your bicycle clips and<br />

head for the yellow brick church<br />

on the top of the hill on Tagensvej<br />

again. Continue on by way of<br />

Frederiksborgvej until you get to a<br />

marshy lake area called Utterslev<br />

Mose. It’s nice there – reeds, trees,<br />

waterfowl and bicyclists aplenty.<br />

If you start out around the path<br />

on the side away from the city<br />

centre, you have just started out on<br />

the outer green cycle route following<br />

the old ring fortification system<br />

It’s time to chill when you reach Halvandet, the outermost venue of the<br />

Copenhagen waterfront.<br />

around Copenhagen’s suburbs for<br />

miles and miles. You’re in for a very<br />

long and varied bike ride following<br />

not only ramparts, canals and ditches<br />

but also the Ring 3 Freeway until<br />

you actually hit the coast.<br />

In around the lakes<br />

Exhausted from all the cycling or<br />

excited by all the sights, you can<br />

either stroll or continue biking<br />

around Copenhagen’s most central<br />

area of recreation – the lakes.<br />

From the fancy Østerbro end<br />

with cafés, the University of<br />

Copenhagen and wealthy residences<br />

down past Nørrrebro to<br />

Søpavillonen (a white wood seaside<br />

resort type building hosting<br />

a forties+ discotheque) to the<br />

slightly rundown Vesterbro-end<br />

with the Tycho Brahe planetarium,<br />

you will encounter all sorts of<br />

Copenhageners jogging, talking,<br />

walking their dog, sunbathing<br />

and discovering the odd bike that<br />

has somehow unfortunately been<br />

thrown in one of the lakes.<br />

Hopefully yours will never end<br />

up like that. By now it should be<br />

your best friend ever… and ready<br />

to take part in the daily <strong>CBS</strong> bike<br />

parking orgy.<br />

1<br />

Christianshavn used to be the home of the Copenhagen Naval Base, which<br />

now is part of the Copenhagen waterfront.<br />

c b s o b s e r v e r<br />

Next deadline: September 17th<br />

Unsolicited contributions: max. 1 A4 page<br />

Mail to: red.observer@cbs.dk<br />

1

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